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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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S

Shambles

Member
Negator said:
This looks exactly like what I was looking for. Hell, it even looks awesome! Thanks bro!

[Edit]
How are the fans? Would buying additional fans be recommended?
Click to expand...

Not that it matters if you need a case now but we should start to see proper USB3 connections on cases now in the next month or so. Anyone wanting USB3 connections on the front panel should wait before purchasing a case. Anyone happy with only motherboard connections, running wires outside the case, or just want to get their gaming on go ahead and buy what you want now.
 
mclaren777

mclaren777

Member
Negator said:
This looks exactly like what I was looking for. Hell, it even looks awesome! Thanks bro!

How are the fans? Would buying additional fans be recommended?
Click to expand...
I have two 200mm fans (front & top) plus the 120mm at the back. They are all regulated with a fan controller at the slower possible settings and everything is really cool inside (28C motherboard temp).
 
Z

ZZMitch

Member
I wish I had a bunch of cheap computer components I could use to test my computer with... it would make solving my computer issues sooo much easier :/

Also, could someone please explain this too me?

PSU rail voltage (12,5,3.3) +/- 5%

Can I change that in the BIOS somewhere or something?
 
T

The Big Rig

Member
Ok, my SSD hasn't really cut down the time for my start up and shutdown. I just have the OS installed on it, along with some of my main programs. Is there something I need to do in Win7 or the BIOS to speed up my drive?
 
Z

Zzoram

Member
Just a reminder to PC n00bs, when you overclock and get barely acceptable temps, remember it's winter and your ambient temperature will go up in summer. if your PC suddenly becomes unstable in summer you'll know why.
 
K

knitoe

Member
The Big Rig said:
Ok, my SSD hasn't really cut down the time for my start up and shutdown. I just have the OS installed on it, along with some of my main programs. Is there something I need to do in Win7 or the BIOS to speed up my drive?
Click to expand...
Run some SSD benchmarks to make sure it's setup and getting the correct speeds. Go into bios, setup fastest boot option(s) and disable any hardware not in use that could add to boot time. Google for tweaks to Windows using SSD.
 
Ecto311

Ecto311

Member
Zzoram said:
Just a reminder to PC n00bs, when you overclock and get barely acceptable temps, remember it's winter and your ambient temperature will go up in summer. if your PC suddenly becomes unstable in summer you'll know why.
Click to expand...
Even if your room/house stays almost the same temp year round?
 
Z

Zzoram

Member
Ecto311 said:
Even if your room/house stays almost the same temp year round?
Click to expand...
A lot of people don't do that. They tend to keep heat around 70F and in summer AC like 76F so there is a bit of fluctuation. It might not makeuch of a difference or it may, depends on how hot you're running your PC.

Also humidity is low in winter, it's when you're most likely to static shock ruin your PC parts, especially if you're building it in a carpeted room.
 
C

CrankyJay

Banned
Zzoram said:
A lot of people don't do that. They tend to keep heat around 70F and in summer AC like 76F so there is a bit of fluctuation. It might not makeuch of a difference or it may, depends on how hot you're running your PC.

Also humidity is low in winter, it's when you're most likely to static shock ruin your PC parts, especially if you're building it in a carpeted room.
Click to expand...

Yeah, my house is super staticky in the winter in carpeting areas, so I'm hoping me bringing the pc and parts into the basement on the concrete floor will help with that.
 
Z

Zzoram

Member
CrankyJay said:
Yeah, my house is super staticky in the winter in carpeting areas, so I'm hoping me bringing the pc and parts into the basement on the concrete floor will help with that.
Click to expand...
A lot of your parts will come in antistatic bags. Keep them and leave stuff on or in them until you need them. If you have to take it apart use the bags again. Touch a sink faucet before you start and don't drag your feet.

Static damage is pretty rare these days but it doesn't hurt to be safe.
 
C

CrankyJay

Banned
Zzoram said:
A lot of your parts will come in antistatic bags. Keep them and leave stuff on or in them until you need them. If you have to take it apart use the bags again. Touch a sink faucet before you start and don't drag your feet.

Static damage is pretty rare these days but it doesn't hurt to be safe.
Click to expand...

I may also have access to grounding wristbands.
 
T

The Big Rig

Member
knitoe said:
Run some SSD benchmarks to make sure it's setup and getting the correct speeds. Go into bios, setup fastest boot option(s) and disable any hardware not in use that could add to boot time. Google for tweaks to Windows using SSD.
Click to expand...
24yoho4.png


Shouldn't this be much faster for an OCZ Vertex 2?
 
D

D-Pad

Member
So my goal for 2011 is to build a pretty decent game tower. Thing is, I'll be ordering the parts slowly through the year as I can afford them. Generally speaking, what do I buy when? For example, will it do me better to buy the mobo first and end with the tower? With everything advancing as fast as it does, I know it's inevitable that whatever I get will be outdated.

On second thought, everything I'm likely to buy will already be "outdated", so does it still matter?
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
D-Pad said:
So my goal for 2011 is to build a pretty decent game tower. Thing is, I'll be ordering the parts slowly through the year as I can afford them. Generally speaking, what do I buy when? For example, will it do me better to buy the mobo first and end with the tower? With everything advancing as fast as it does, I know it's inevitable that whatever I get will be outdated.

On second thought, everything I'm likely to buy will already be "outdated", so does it still matter?
Click to expand...
Buy everything but cpu and motherboard. Most likely it'll be a Z68 / ivy bridge
 
·

·feist·

Member
Teknopathetic said:
Only review I saw for the Scythe Mine 2 had some pretty not-good things to say about that heatsink.
Click to expand...
OC3D? I wouldn't trust their HSF testing methodology. Came across their video comparison and it's done by the same awful reviewer that seems to do all of their videos. Couldn't bring myself to watch anymore of his reviews.

If the Mine 2 can get within striking distance of the NH-D14/Silver Arrow, for roughly $20-30 less, it might be another nice option.



bluelogo.gif


Intel Sandy Bridge Solution
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcrLbzcscqY&feature=feedu

They are offering a free SATA controller card if you email them your order number to intelsandybridge@help.tigerdirect.com
Click to expand...
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1583433
 
C

Cipherr

Member
The Big Rig said:
24yoho4.png


Shouldn't this be much faster for an OCZ Vertex 2?
Click to expand...


That definitely looks slow as hell I just ran the test on my samsung F3 (mechanical 1tb drive) and got 110 sequential read and 105 write. Thats a mechanical drive. Somethings definitely wrong with your settings.


Edit: Wait why does yours say pciIDE? You need to fix that. SSD's are supposed to be set to AHCI in bios prior to install. Ill bet thats what neutering your speed. You get that fixed and youll feel the burn real good. Itll be impossible not to tell the difference.
 
T

TheExodu5

Banned
Cipherr said:
That definitely looks slow as hell I just ran the test on my samsung F3 (mechanical 1tb drive) and got 110 sequential read and 105 write. Thats a mechanical drive. Somethings definitely wrong with your settings.


Edit: Wait why does yours say pciIDE? You need to fix that. SSD's are supposed to be set to AHCI in bios prior to install. Ill bet thats what neutering your speed. You get that fixed and youll feel the burn real good. Itll be impossible not to tell the difference.
Click to expand...

Sequential read/write really isn't that important for OS speeds. His random read/writes are low, but still 20x faster than mechanical drives.

Now, maybe you don't notice a huge difference on a clean install. That's possible. However, once you starting having more applications on bootup, the difference becomes incredibly noticeable. With a mechanical drive, it's probably 30-60 seconds after you hit the desktop for the PC to be usable. With an SSD, it's nearly instant.

But yeah, the speeds are definitely low...

My old Intel G2:

ssd.jpg


Oddly enough, Windows Experience Index refuses to class my drive as better than 5.9. lol
 
S

Snuggles

erotic butter maelstrom
Damn. All 4 of my packages from NewEgg have made it to Michigan, and it looks like 2 of them have passed the last checkpoint and are going right to my destination. I might have all my components tomorrow!

I've been playing a ton of Deus Ex to re-orientate myself with KB/M and awesome PC gaming. I'm so excited dudes.
 
mclaren777

mclaren777

Member
The Big Rig said:
Ok, my SSD hasn't really cut down the time for my start up and shutdown. I just have the OS installed on it, along with some of my main programs. Is there something I need to do in Win7 or the BIOS to speed up my drive?
Click to expand...
Possibly update the firmware, though that will likely wipe the data.

What kind of an SSD do you have?
 
S

Shambles

Member
D-Pad said:
Thank you! :)
Click to expand...

If you're ordering parts well in advance it's a good idea to test them out on someone elses machine to make sure they work. It's not much fun to hold on to a stick of memory for 9 months and then when you finally put everything together realize that it's no good.
 
R

Red

Member
My Intel X 25M's sequential write speed has dropped about 35MB/s in the year since I've bought it. Sequential read has also dropped, but very minimally (about 3MB/s), though my overall read speed has gone up about 5%.

Write speeds pretty much are way down. Like 30% down, a really significant decrease. Not sure why that is.
 
U

Unknown Soldier

Member
keeblerdrow said:
Warning: The HAF 912 is ugly as sin. I have one and I love its build and the interior has removable drive mountings to make room for extra big cards, but the exterior looks like it got in a fight with another case and lost.
Click to expand...

I don't know what the deal was with Cooler Master and the HAF series. My HAF 932 looks like the Hummer of computer cases but it isn't in-your-face with the flanges everywhere uglifying everything up. Then they made the 922 and it has some flanges, okay, I can deal with that. But then they just went crazy with the 912. I guess Cooler Master though buyers of HAF Jr. needed to over-compensate for their tinier electronic throbbing man-box with pointless plastic flanges all around it. (No offense, I know the 912 is a great case inside and you made a great choice by picking it. But, ugh.)
 
mclaren777

mclaren777

Member
Here's my SSD for comparison. From what I've read it doesn't suffer from degradation like other drives do. Only time will tell if that's true, though.

58wrb.png
 
N

Negator

Member
mclaren777 said:
I have two 200mm fans (front & top) plus the 120mm at the back. They are all regulated with a fan controller at the slower possible settings and everything is really cool inside (28C motherboard temp).
Click to expand...

That sounds pretty good. Hopefully I can find some case fans without any obnoxious LEDs. The only silent ones I found on newegg were LED'd up.
 
M

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Zzoram said:
Just a reminder to PC n00bs, when you overclock and get barely acceptable temps, remember it's winter and your ambient temperature will go up in summer. if your PC suddenly becomes unstable in summer you'll know why.
Click to expand...

got a link to a good overclocking guide for us n00bs?
 
T

The_Inquisitor

Member
So I am thinking ahead for rig upgrades later this year to what I built last summer.

I currently am using:

i5-750 w/ stock fan

MB GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3 P55 R

17-371-015 PSU ANTEC|EA650 RT

20-231-277 MEM 2Gx2|GSKILL F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL

22-136-513 HD 1.5T|WD WD15EARS 64M %

27-106-276 DVD ROM LITE-ON|iHDS118-04 18X %

Gigabyte 1 GB GTX 460

Thermatake Armor case w/ stock fan




What would be the best area to improve on? I think 4GB RAM is more than ok. Should I add in another two case fans to increase my airflow? Also, another GTX 460 looks like a decent investment. Perhaps I should also pick up a decent CPU cooler, and OC my processor more.

I also realize I am using a slow-ass 5400RPM drive as my system/steam/picture drive. I really think I need to get a second 1.5 TB drive and perhaps a RAID controller to mirror my stuff for backup. I also would consider getting a SSD.

Basically I am looking for methods of increasing my performance, because it peeves the fuck out of me I still can't max out Metro 2033 on my 1680x1050 monitor. Thanks GAF!
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
SSD at the end of the month.
ZZMitch said:
I wish I had a bunch of cheap computer components I could use to test my computer with... it would make solving my computer issues sooo much easier :/

Also, could someone please explain this too me?

PSU rail voltage (12,5,3.3) +/- 5%

Can I change that in the BIOS somewhere or something?
Click to expand...
Voltages can be read by some programs in Windows, but best method is to just look in your BIOS under readings.

If you have 13V on your 12V rail that is bad as you are using 13V instead of 12V for certain components.
 
M

mrklaw

MrArseFace
at idle, with core temp I'm getting temperatures around 26 degrees after the computer has been on for a while. Running the unigine heaven benchmark, it goes up to around 34c, with one core going up to 37c. Running Prime95, pushing all four cores at 100%, it seems to be settling at about 45-49c. Thats with my fans at maximum speed (just connected direct to the PSU). I can put Low Noise Adapters on them to make them quieter, but I wanted to get an idea of how much headroom I have for overclocking first, then quiet them down a bit.

What sort of temps are acceptable for an i5?

GPU (6950) is idling at about 41c, and went up to a max of 63 running heaven
 
V

vocab

Member
The_Inquisitor said:
What would be the best area to improve on? I think 4GB RAM is more than ok. Should I add in another two case fans to increase my airflow? Also, another GTX 460 looks like a decent investment. Perhaps I should also pick up a decent CPU cooler, and OC my processor more.

I also realize I am using a slow-ass 5400RPM drive as my system/steam/picture drive. I really think I need to get a second 1.5 TB drive and perhaps a RAID controller to mirror my stuff for backup. I also would consider getting a SSD.

Basically I am looking for methods of increasing my performance, because it peeves the fuck out of me I still can't max out Metro 2033 on my 1680x1050 monitor. Thanks GAF!
Click to expand...


Metro is a beast for any card really. Another 460 would probably give you the results you want. Your processor is fine, and ocing will make it better.
 
T

The_Inquisitor

Member
vocab said:
Metro is a beast for any card really. Another 460 would probably give you the results you want. Your processor is fine, and ocing will make it better.
Click to expand...

I've got it OC'ed to 2.9G right now. Would investing in a cooler and OCing further have much of a huge gain? I also use this computer for CPU intensive programs like Lightroom.

If so, any suggestions on what I should be looking at?
 
F

Funky Papa

FUNK-Y-PPA-4
So... which would be the best 22-23" gaming monitor in the market? I'm mostly interested in perfect dark tones and zero ghosting of any kind. I'm currently playing RE5 in my big old Sony LCD TV and it looks like shit.

Edit: Just in case, I was looking at the Samsung Syncmaster PX2370.
 
S

Salaadin

Member
Maybe someone here can answer this for me since google hasnt been much of a help:

I have a USB 360 controller for my PC. Can I still use this on my 360 even though MS sells it as a PC controller?

Does plugging it into the 360 make it act like the play and charge kit where the controller will not turn itself off. I figure it wouldnt because its not wireless and doesnt have to save on battery life.
 
C

Curufinwe

Member
Hi PC-GAF,

When I woke up this morning and turned my PC there were lines and dots all over the screen and I was unable to select anything or start any programs, so I'm pretty sure my 3.5 year old, 320 MB 8800 GTS is almost dead.

I was able to boot into safe mode and uninstall the Nvidia display driver, and now the computer is functioning but there are red lines and dots all over the screen.


I don't think I have integrated graphics as a backup, so I don't want to take the graphics card out until I get a new one to replace it with. What's the best card to get to replace an 8800 GTS? I only have a 500 watt power supply, and my case isn't that big so the new card can't be much longer than the 8800.
 
2

2San

Member
Salaadin said:
Maybe someone here can answer this for me since google hasnt been much of a help:

I have a USB 360 controller for my PC. Can I still use this on my 360 even though MS sells it as a PC controller?

Does plugging it into the 360 make it act like the play and charge kit where the controller will not turn itself off. I figure it wouldnt because its not wireless and doesnt have to save on battery life.
Click to expand...
Yes it works on the 360. The controller is only on when the xbox is on. And it's only off when the xbox is off.
 
C

CrankyJay

Banned
Funky Papa said:
So... which would be the best 22-23" gaming monitor in the market? I'm mostly interested in perfect dark tones and zero ghosting of any kind. I'm currently playing RE5 in my big old Sony LCD TV and it looks like shit.

Edit: Just in case, I was looking at the Samsung Syncmaster PX2370.
Click to expand...

I got two of these 2 weeks ago: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...6059&cm_re=asus_vh236h-_-24-236-059-_-Product

Highly rated and supposedly the monitor used at gaming tournaments due to low lag. I can't really comment on the black levels though.

$160 after $20 MIR
 
C

Curufinwe

Member
Drkirby said:
I would check if your card has a valid warranty, unless you want a better card anyway.
Click to expand...

I bought my PC from Cyberpower so their 12 month warranty is long expired, and I don't have any of the packaging for the video card.

I don't mind paying around $200 now to get a better card, even if it's going to be limited by my E6420, 2 GB of RAM, Windows XP system.
 
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