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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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mike23

Member
scotcheggz said:
Hey guys, I have a bit of a noobish question...

This is my first computer build in about 10 years, when I looked over all the parts to familiarise myself, the PSU had two different plugs coming out of it, the long one and a much smaller plug. Anyway, I assumed that these were like when you had two different plugs, one for AMD boards and one for intel boards. Well, it seems I have to plug both of these in? Is that correct? going through the motherboard manual, it's not totally clear, but it does look that way, so I just wanted to check. Pic here is of the socket on the board in question circled in red. Hope you guys can see what I'm getting at. If that is the case, why does the board need two power cables plugged into it these days?

JgJyl.jpg


Hope this makes sense!

That's the power to the CPU. So yes, you need it.
 

ithorien

Member
catapult37 said:
When comparing benchmarks on 3dmark's website, should I assume most 6950s are unlocked? Would an unlocked 6950 actually show up as a 6970? I'm just trying to set a baseline for my GPU before I start OCing stuff. Right now it's a little disappointing, getting around 4400 on 3dmark11 whereas the average seems to be in the 6000 range. That's with a 2500k, 4GB ram.

TheExodu5 said:
Did you make sure to run 3DMark with default settings? I haven't used it in a while, but people used to just bench at default settings. I'm not sure if the comparison tool takes that into account or not.

6000 vs 4000 doesn't sound right. 6000 vs 4900 maybe...but I wouldn't expect a 50% increase in performance from unlocking. Does the performance number count CPU as well? Overclocking that Sandy Bridge is going to make a huge difference if so.

Make sure what Exo said. Also if you run D3DOverrider, turn it off for 3Dmark 06 (if you run that one). My bench ran at 60fps constant, and resulted in a measly 16k. Then I killed D3D, and it was somewhere at ~30k.
 

eznark

Banned
mike23 said:
That's the power to the CPU. So yes, you need it.

Building on that question with a possibly dumb question of my own, I put the fan on my cooler master on the other side, facing the exhaust fan on the back on my 650D. Should it be the other way, as scotcheggz has it?
 

scogoth

Member
eznark said:
Building on that question with a possibly dumb question of my own, I put the fan on my cooler master on the other side, facing the exhaust fan on the back on my 650D. Should it be the other way, as scotcheggz has it?

Depends, you can do a push config like scotcheggz or a pull like yours. Push tends to be a little more effective but both work as long as the airflow is moving the air to the back of the case. If you have it pulling air in from the left side then you have a problem.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
eznark said:
Building on that question with a possibly dumb question of my own, I put the fan on my cooler master on the other side, facing the exhaust fan on the back on my 650D. Should it be the other way, as scotcheggz has it?

As long as the air is going through it and blowing towards an exhaust, it's fine. The different configurations might vary by maybe 1-2C...nothing to fret about unless you're really anal about getting low temps.
 
ithorien said:
Make sure what Exo said. Also if you run D3DOverrider, turn it off for 3Dmark 06 (if you run that one). My bench ran at 60fps constant, and resulted in a measly 16k. Then I killed D3D, and it was somewhere at ~30k.

Not using D3D yet. Like I said, I'm trying to make sure my hardware is performing up to snuff totally stock. It's kinda hard to find a 1:1 comparison by which to judge. In 3dmark11, I just opened it, skipped past the "purchase upgrade" stuff, and set it to the third setting that's like "just benchmarks." So it was on the "performance" setting, and I guess everything else is default.

There are definitely reviews that show the stock 6950 3dmark11 performance, but the CPU/ram don't necessarily match. I got 4400 overall last night, but I've got a few things I want to check before I run it again.
 

eznark

Banned
TheExodu5 said:
As long as the air is going through it and blowing towards an exhaust, it's fine. The different configurations might vary by maybe 1-2C...nothing to fret about unless you're really anal about getting low temps.

I just didn't want to get made fun of when I post the pictures!
 
AllIsOneIsNone said:
Quick question. My buddy is going to help me build a computer; my budget it about 600 dollars (minus the graphics card), and I cam across this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.636051

Are there any weaknesses in this build? Only thing my friend told me was to get an additional fan for the cpu. Any other suggestions?

That is a nice bundle. The CPU, has gotten very decent reviews. I haven't tested on personally but I've talked to people that have and they love it. The board isn't bad either. All in all, for less than $600, I'd jump on it.
 

LegoDad

Member
I have a networking question. Is is possible to put a switch in front of a router, as my PC and PS3 have gigabit connections but the router is not gigabit, was trying to fix it cheaply and increase speeds dramatically.
 

knitoe

Member
catapult37 said:
When comparing benchmarks on 3dmark's website, should I assume most 6950s are unlocked? Would an unlocked 6950 actually show up as a 6970? I'm just trying to set a baseline for my GPU before I start OCing stuff. Right now it's a little disappointing, getting around 4400 on 3dmark11 whereas the average seems to be in the 6000 range. That's with a 2500k, 4GB ram.
From reading reviews, the scores for the 6970 are around 5500, also what I personally recorded, and for a 6950 around 4900. Are you overclocking the CPU? I would assume most people are on 2500K. That could be the difference if to aren't.

To get 6000, the 6950 card would have to unlock the shaders and o/c way above even the 6970 spec.
 

Cday

Banned
AllIsOneIsNone said:
Quick question. My buddy is going to help me build a computer; my budget it about 600 dollars (minus the graphics card), and I cam across this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.636051

Are there any weaknesses in this build? Only thing my friend told me was to get an additional fan for the cpu. Any other suggestions?

If he's going to build you a computer replace the cpu and hard drive with an x4 840 and spinpoint f3. Don't know about rosewill power supplies. Might want to go corsair or seasonic x series there.
 

knitoe

Member
caliblue15 said:
I have a networking question. Is is possible to put a switch in front of a router, as my PC and PS3 have gigabit connections but the router is not gigabit, was trying to fix it cheaply and increase speeds dramatically.
Don't think it's possible. Why not connect switch to your router. Then, connect the PC & PS3 to the switch ports.
 
Cday said:
If he's going to build you a computer replace the cpu and hard drive with an x4 840 and spinpoint f3. Don't know about rosewill power supplies. Might want to go corsair or seasonic x series there.

Is the phenom 2 overkill or something?
 
Shadowhaxor said:
That is a nice bundle. The CPU, has gotten very decent reviews. I haven't tested on personally but I've talked to people that have and they love it. The board isn't bad either. All in all, for less than $600, I'd jump on it.

Cool, thank ya
 

ithorien

Member
caliblue15 said:
I have a networking question. Is is possible to put a switch in front of a router, as my PC and PS3 have gigabit connections but the router is not gigabit, was trying to fix it cheaply and increase speeds dramatically.

Not possible as the purpose of a router is just that, routing your internet connection for use at your local network.

Only way to eliminate a router from the equation is to have a modem with a router component in it.

Depending on your internet though, I doubt you're maxing your speeds. I'm still on a 10/100 network at home, and that runs at about 5mb/sec transfers (also dependent on your HDD rates). Gigabit is about 50mb/s. My downloads peak at 2.1mb/sec.
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
This is a question for exodus ( or anybody who recently bought similar setups )

You and I have have quite similar setups, and I was wondering. When do you think you're going to want and/or need to upgrade?
 

ithorien

Member
Corky said:
This is a question for exodus ( or anybody who recently bought similar setups )

You and I have have quite similar setups, and I was wondering. When do you think you're going to want and/or need to upgrade?

Even though my setup isn't exact, it's close enough that I think I can comment, but I don't think it's relevant. It all depends on you. I sit on a 2 year cycle, and it fits my needs/budget.

It all depends on your preference/needs, honestly.
 

LegoDad

Member
ithorien said:
Not possible as the purpose of a router is just that, routing your internet connection for use at your local network.

Only way to eliminate a router from the equation is to have a modem with a router component in it.

Depending on your internet though, I doubt you're maxing your speeds. I'm still on a 10/100 network at home, and that runs at about 5mb/sec transfers (also dependent on your HDD rates). Gigabit is about 50mb/s. My downloads peak at 2.1mb/sec.

Don't want wireless router gone, but want to run gigabit as I get 30mbps down and the router doesn't have gigabit, i just want to run switch to PC/ps3 and then to router.
 

ithorien

Member
caliblue15 said:
Don't want wireless router gone, but want to run gigabit as I get 30mbps down and the router doesn't have gigabit, i just want to run switch to PC/ps3 and then to router.

If you absolutely want to max the potential with minimal bottlenecking at the network level, get a gigabit rated router, switch and swap out your cables to cat 6.

Either way, 30mbps will translate to roughly 3.75mb/sec, which will be just fine on 10/100 network. Most common misconception is that people translate the figure 1:1. It's megabits, not megabytes.
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
ithorien said:
Even though my setup isn't exact, it's close enough that I think I can comment, but I don't think it's relevant. It all depends on you. I sit on a 2 year cycle, and it fits my needs/budget.

It all depends on your preference/needs, honestly.

Ah, but do you think the progression of that the gamingindustry is having ( i.e scaling back on the "killer-top of the line" visuals ), would you really need to upgrade within 2 years? From today that is.
 

scogoth

Member
caliblue15 said:
Don't want wireless router gone, but want to run gigabit as I get 30mbps down and the router doesn't have gigabit, i just want to run switch to PC/ps3 and then to router.
Do this.
Internet --> Router --> Gigabit Switch --> pc and ps3

the PC and PS3 will be able to communicate at 1000mbps speeds and the wireless devices will just be 54mbps or 300mbps depending on whether its g or n. Your internet is 30mbps -> routers 100mpbs -> switch 1000mbps so there will be no bottlenecks.
Cat5e cable is fine for gigabit you don't need cat6 unless you're doing 10Gb.


Corky said:
Ah, but do you think the progression of that the gamingindustry is having ( i.e scaling back on the "killer-top of the line" visuals ), would you really need to upgrade within 2 years? From today that is.

Gaming machines can last 3-4 years before becoming obsolete. 2 year cycles are for people who want to have the latest greatest gaming rigs.
 

ithorien

Member
Corky said:
Ah, but do you think the progression of that the gamingindustry is having ( i.e scaling back on the "killer-top of the line" visuals ), would you really need to upgrade within 2 years? From today that is.

Honestly I've been doing 2 year cycles for the last 12, and it's been working out great. If anything radical happens, adapt :)

scogoth said:
Your internet is 30mbps -> routers 100mpbs -> switch 1000mbps so there will be no bottlenecks.

That's probably the clearest picture.
 

DasDamen

Member
ithorien said:
Either way, 30mbps will translate to roughly 3.75mb/sec, which will be just fine on 10/100 network. Most common misconception is that people translate the figure 1:1. It's megabits, not megabytes.

10base-t still wouldn't be enough for 30mbps since it's only good for a theoretical 10mbps.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
eznark said:
Building on that question with a possibly dumb question of my own, I put the fan on my cooler master on the other side, facing the exhaust fan on the back on my 650D. Should it be the other way, as scotcheggz has it?
With close fans like the 212+ has, push does make ad difference.
There's probably some bench out there, but I'll stick my neck out and say 5C
 

LegoDad

Member
ithorien said:
If you absolutely want to max the potential with minimal bottlenecking at the network level, get a gigabit rated router, switch and swap out your cables to cat 6.

Either way, 30mbps will translate to roughly 3.75mb/sec, which will be just fine on 10/100 network. Most common misconception is that people translate the figure 1:1. It's megabits, not megabytes.

I know the difference between bits and Bytes, but there is overhead on each device.

DasDamen said:
10base-t still wouldn't be enough for 30mbps since it's only good for a theoretical 10mbps.

this

scogoth said:
Do this.
Internet --> Router --> Gigabit Switch --> pc and ps3

the PC and PS3 will be able to communicate at 1000mbps speeds and the wireless devices will just be 54mbps or 300mbps depending on whether its g or n. Your internet is 30mbps -> routers 100mpbs -> switch 1000mbps so there will be no bottlenecks.
Cat5e cable is fine for gigabit you don't need cat6 unless you're doing 10Gb.


This doesn't work as the gigabit is then stuck on the Routers 10/100. I'm pretty sure I can just use the switch from the modem, then plug in router (it takes up two spots on a switch.) then connect PC and PS3, giving me faster upload and download speeds, while still allowing for wireless off phones and visitors.
 

adam.chance

Neo Member
I am in the market for a new gaming keyboard. My girlfriend cannot stand how dirty the old logitech I currently have is. Honestly, it is kind of gross. I have been thinking about getting a mechanical keyboard, but I don't have a specific reason. I am a moderate MMO-player, but do not use programmable keys, I mostly play TF2, Magicka, and a few other random games. I don't really play FPS. I would like if it had two USB ports, so I can connect my mouse and my headset (or plug in my phone to charge). Does anyone have a recommendation? I know of Das Keyboard, the Razer series, and Steelseries (they don't appear to make the 7g anymore).
 

ithorien

Member
caliblue15 said:

No. Why the above poster brought 10 into the picture I don't understand. You're not running on 10, you're running on a 100 unless specifically designated in software and by cables. For all intents and purposes, your network is a 100mpbs network. Your internet is 30mpbs. Your network is fine to handle it. Forget about the 10.

caliblue15 said:
This doesn't work as the gigabit is then stuck on the Routers 10/100. I'm pretty sure I can just use the switch from the modem, then plug in router (it takes up two spots on a switch.) then connect PC and PS3, giving me faster upload and download speeds, while still allowing for wireless off phones and visitors.

No, nothing's stuck on the router. If you're on a gigabit switch, the transfer between your PC to PS3 will be gigabit speed if the PS3's adapter even allows for it. I'm not sure how adaptive your switch is, but there's a reason you plug your modem into a dedicated plug on the router. That's how it's supposed to work. If you plug in the WLAN cable into the switch, which has a PC, PS3 and a modem attached to it, your router won't be able to distinguish which device is your WLAN device, allowing for exactly nothing to happen.

All of this is pointless. 30mbps web > 100mbps router > 1000mbps devices. Your "bottleneck" is still your internet either way.
 

LegoDad

Member
ithorien said:
No. Why the above poster brought 10 into the picture I don't understand. You're not running on 10, you're running on a 100 unless specifically designated in software and by cables. For all intents and purposes, your network is a 100mpbs network. Your internet is 30mpbs. Your network is fine to handle it. Forget about the 10.



No, nothing's stuck on the router. If you're on a gigabit switch, the transfer between your PC to PS3 will be gigabit speed if the PS3's adapter even allows for it. I'm not sure how adaptive your switch is, but there's a reason you plug your modem into a dedicated plug on the router. That's how it's supposed to work. If you plug in the WLAN cable into the switch, which has a PC, PS3 and a modem attached to it, your router won't be able to distinguish which device is your WLAN device, allowing for exactly nothing to happen.

All of this is pointless. 30mbps web > 100mbps router > 1000mbps devices. Your "bottleneck" is still your internet either way.

You are thinking of a hub, not a switch.
 

Bebpo

Banned
So I was about to bite the bullet on upgrading to a GTX580 when I noticed that the newer Nvidia cards like the 580 don't seem to have a circle mini-DIN out so you can use a mini-DIN to component dongle and get component out.

I use my PC as a HTPC running to my CRT HDTV XBR960 via component (there's one HDMI input on the tv, but PS3 uses that; everything else goes in via component). Do none of the top of the line cards from ATI or Nvidia include component out solutions anymore?

This is what I currently use from my Nvidia card:
unnamed.jpg
 

ithorien

Member
caliblue15 said:
You are thinking of a hub, not a switch.

Try your way then, and report. 99.9% it won't work and when it doesn't, I'll even draw a diagram for you why it didn't.

I apologize for getting defensive, but I've been managing an SBS network for 10 years now, so I'd like to think I know what I'm talking about (which includes the difference between a hub and a switch).
 
Bebpo said:
So I was about to bite the bullet on upgrading to a GTX580 when I noticed that the newer Nvidia cards like the 580 don't seem to have a circle mini-DIN out so you can use a mini-DIN to component dongle and get component out.

I use my PC as a HTPC running to my CRT HDTV XBR960 via component (there's one HDMI input on the tv, but PS3 uses that; everything else goes in via component). Do none of the top of the line cards from ATI or Nvidia include component out solutions anymore?

This is what I currently use from my Nvidia card:
unnamed.jpg
does your crt at least have a dvi port?
If not you could get a dvi to vga adapter, then use a vga to component adapter
 

Bebpo

Banned
Nope. 1 HDMI input and 1 component input. PS3 gets the HDMI slot and for everything else, I pass into my receiver via component and then go component out from the receiver to the component in slot on my tv.
 

clav

Member
Anybody have recommendations for a low profile CPU cooler for a Q6600?

I do plan on overclocking it.

I know there's the Zalman 8700 and a Scythe low profile fan, but is there something I'm missing?
 
Bebpo said:
Nope. 1 HDMI input and 1 component input. PS3 gets the HDMI slot and for everything else, I pass into my receiver via component and then go component out from the receiver to the component in slot on my tv.
Damn, well you could use component for your ps3 and use the hdmi for pc, or try those adapters I mentioned
dvi to vga
dvi-to-vga-adapter.jpg


+

vga to comp
15938d1255676825-gs-mode-selector-development-feedback-vga-male-rca-component-adaper.jpg
 
I need a new sound card, I have a Creative Sound Blaster X Fi Xtreme Audio and want to replace it. I'm a Windows 7 user and need Stereo Mix/What U Hear/Wave Out driver support from the sound card manufacturer.

Does Asus make quality sound cards?
 

ithorien

Member
jaundicejuice said:
I need a new sound card, I have a Creative Sound Blaster X Fi Xtreme Audio and want to replace it. I'm a Windows 7 user and need Stereo Mix/What U Hear/Wave Out driver support from the sound card manufacturer.

Does Asus make quality sound cards?

The Xonar series are good stuff according to a ton of Gafers. $30 for a solid 5.1 card.

Not sure about the "what you hear" function though, I know it was on older SB drivers and was removed in the more recent ones. No clue if Asus does it.
 

Bebpo

Banned
Mr Nightman said:
Damn, well you could use component for your ps3 and use the hdmi for pc, or try those adapters I mentioned
dvi to vga
dvi-to-vga-adapter.jpg


+

vga to comp
15938d1255676825-gs-mode-selector-development-feedback-vga-male-rca-component-adaper.jpg

Thanks. I'll try those adapters out with my current card's dvi out. Want to make sure it'll work before spending $500 on a new card.
 

Bebpo

Banned
Mr Nightman said:
sweet, hope it all works out for ya

I looked over at monoprice for the adapters and on the DVI->VGA one it says:

* There are three types of DVI connections: DVI analog, DVI integrated and DVI digital. If your DVI output is purely digital and does not support analog modes, this DVI adaptor will not work. Please check your DVI pins carefully to determine whether this DVI adaptor will fit your output connector.

What kind of DVI output do the latest 3d cards use?
 
ithorien said:
The Xonar series are good stuff according to a ton of Gafers. $30 for a solid 5.1 card.

Not sure about the "what you hear" function though, I know it was on older SB drivers and was removed in the more recent ones. No clue if Asus does it.

Stereo mix/What U Hear/Wave Out is integral to my purchasing a new sound card, it's the entire point of my buying a new card. It's good to know the Asus Xonar line is quality, I might try and contact them to see if they support the feature through their drivers.
 
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