Mr Nightman
Banned
hmm, not really too sure, did your video card even come with a dvi to vga adapter? figured most did nowadays, can anybody explain the different types of dvi plugs?Bebpo said:
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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|
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jaundicejuice
Member
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=39269&vpn=Xonar D1&manufacture=ASUS
Anyone have any strong opinions about this card?
Anyone have any strong opinions about this card?
Mr Nightman said:
Yeah, found one. Though after reading about it, it seems like you can't go VGA->Component if your tv uses Y/Pb/Pr component.
Bleh.
Since I was going to get a new tv anyhow in the summer, I think I'll wait and get the 580 and the TV at the same time so I can just go HDMI out from the card -> HDMI in on the TV for my home theater pc needs.
Okay, just got my Cooler Master 212 in the mail and MX-4.
Cleaned off the chip and installed it. Temperatures look so much better now.
The 4 way bracket was giving me some trouble and I think I may have lifted the heat sink ever so slightly, but I have been running Prime95 for 10 minutes now and it seems to be maxing out at 57-59 across the 4 cores.
Is this good? Or should I try to reapply and do better?
I used the rice grain method.
Idle temps were down between 23 and 27.
Using a single fan in push config.
Awesome cooler.
How long to people leave this thing running for?
Cleaned off the chip and installed it. Temperatures look so much better now.
The 4 way bracket was giving me some trouble and I think I may have lifted the heat sink ever so slightly, but I have been running Prime95 for 10 minutes now and it seems to be maxing out at 57-59 across the 4 cores.
Is this good? Or should I try to reapply and do better?
I used the rice grain method.
Idle temps were down between 23 and 27.
Using a single fan in push config.
Awesome cooler.
How long to people leave this thing running for?
caliblue15 said:
No I know the difference between a hub and switch. If you place the switch between the modem and router it will theoretically work but your be exposing your PC and PS3 to both subnets, the LAN and WAN. If your WAN and LAN IP is set automatically then the two DHCP broadcasts could cause problems. I'm telling you the best practices method would be to place the switch behind the router to make it only only interact with LAN traffic. Even behind the router devices on the same subnet (ie. PC and PS3 on the lan) will operate at gigabit speeds as long as the devices are connected to the switch.
Naked Snake
Member
I need some pointers on GPUs.
My build is i5-2500 @ 3.3 GHz on H67 Intel board with 8GB RAM, currently running on integrated graphics. I built this primarily for Photoshop and HTPC, and I thought it could probably run the odd game here and there (Portal 2 is supposedly optimized for Sandy Bridge graphics, which is nice), and Dolphin and PS2 emulator should run swell.
But now I'm thinking about getting a discreet GPU, and I'm wondering what would be a good one for my system. I don't have a specific budget; I'd like to spend as little as possible because I'm not really a PC gamer, it's more of an itch that I want to scratch... but I don't want to go low-tier with something that would be outdated soon or make my system unbalanced. So I'm probably looking for a mid-range GPU, but I'd also like to learn a bit about current and upcoming high-end models and price ballparks, and see what bells and whistles the extra dough gets you.
My monitor will be 1920x1200 (might go with a dual setup of identical ones).
Any pointers to get me started would be appreciated.
Edit: If it makes a difference, the monitor is LG W2420R, it's a professional grade RGB LED IPS 10-bit panel with programmable 12-Bit LUT and internal computational precision of 16 Bits (same panel as the HP LP2480zx). So a GPU that can do wide gamut colors through HDMI would be ideal. Usual price of this monitor is something like $1500. I could not believe my luck when I found it today for around $500, brand new. Going to pick it up in a few hours.
My build is i5-2500 @ 3.3 GHz on H67 Intel board with 8GB RAM, currently running on integrated graphics. I built this primarily for Photoshop and HTPC, and I thought it could probably run the odd game here and there (Portal 2 is supposedly optimized for Sandy Bridge graphics, which is nice), and Dolphin and PS2 emulator should run swell.
But now I'm thinking about getting a discreet GPU, and I'm wondering what would be a good one for my system. I don't have a specific budget; I'd like to spend as little as possible because I'm not really a PC gamer, it's more of an itch that I want to scratch... but I don't want to go low-tier with something that would be outdated soon or make my system unbalanced. So I'm probably looking for a mid-range GPU, but I'd also like to learn a bit about current and upcoming high-end models and price ballparks, and see what bells and whistles the extra dough gets you.
My monitor will be 1920x1200 (might go with a dual setup of identical ones).
Any pointers to get me started would be appreciated.
Edit: If it makes a difference, the monitor is LG W2420R, it's a professional grade RGB LED IPS 10-bit panel with programmable 12-Bit LUT and internal computational precision of 16 Bits (same panel as the HP LP2480zx). So a GPU that can do wide gamut colors through HDMI would be ideal. Usual price of this monitor is something like $1500. I could not believe my luck when I found it today for around $500, brand new. Going to pick it up in a few hours.
Question for those of you that have Nvidia cards that use HDMI audio to an audio receiver in a HTPC environment while gaming:
Should have "Bass Management" enabled in the configure menu under the audio setting or not? I can't figure out whether I need windows to do this or should rely on my receiver. I suppose when gaming the HDMI audio is sending PCM to the receiver, right? I guess I need to figure out whether my receiver will strip bass out of the satellite channels and send it to the subwoofer if its getting fed PCM (I know some don't touch PCM at all and bypass all bass management when getting PCM).
Should have "Bass Management" enabled in the configure menu under the audio setting or not? I can't figure out whether I need windows to do this or should rely on my receiver. I suppose when gaming the HDMI audio is sending PCM to the receiver, right? I guess I need to figure out whether my receiver will strip bass out of the satellite channels and send it to the subwoofer if its getting fed PCM (I know some don't touch PCM at all and bypass all bass management when getting PCM).
You really need to make sure it is secure. Even 1 or 2mm of gap or give somewhere can raise your temps a lot.CrankyJay said:
In about 15 minutes it usually gives you a good idea on temps (barring horrible case airflow where it heats up over time)
Outside NA its often easier to get offbrand AMd(ATi) cheaper.Naked Snake said:
If you have the GTX460 (Non-SE) 1GB or a 6850 they are both very similar.
Try to buy a good brand like Sapphire,XFX,ASUS,eVGA,HIS,etc.
teiresias said:
if you have a somewhat decent receiver I would disable all Windows "enhancements"
for example the bass bypass: If you correctly configured your receiver, it should know which channels/speakers are large and can handle the bass, and which are small and need their bass redirected to the subwoofer
I have a Yamaha receiver, so I simply selected 5.1 speakers in Windows and set the receiver to its default [STRAIGHT] mode
OK about to pull the trigger, one last thing. The p8p67 and ASRrock P67 Extreme4 are the same price, is it worth swapping to an ASRock in my order? The p8p67 lacks xfire, but I don't know anything about the Asrock board.
Also is there any beginners guides to OCing the CPU/GPU? I have never done anything like this before.
Thanks PC-GAF
Also is there any beginners guides to OCing the CPU/GPU? I have never done anything like this before.
Thanks PC-GAF
Mr Nightman
Banned
any work, I would suggest snagging a wired one soo you dont have to deal with batteriesSober said:
Unknown Soldier
Member
The reviews were lukewarm, but I ended up getting that Intel 510 SSD that was at Newegg for $274 earlier today. I've heard too many horror stories about OCZ Vertex reliability and support to trust OCZ, and the Intel SSDs have had by far the highest reliability of any SSD brand. I just hope it performs adequately, as it was really bad in random reads/writes compared to other SSDs, even it's predecessor the X-25 series.
Unknown Soldier said:
I was reading the reviews for that earlier, and it looked like nearly every 1 egg review was from an Apple user upset it wasn't working on their Mac. I'm not sure why, but when I try to look at the reviews now it's only showing me some of them, even with no filters. I can't see any of the 1 egg reviews now.
Unknown Soldier
Member
Ummmm I was talking about professional reviews, not Newegg reviews ROFL. Who the fuck reads Newegg reviews, it's almost as bad as reading Amazon reviews!
The Anandtech and StorageReview reviews in particular stood out to me because of their detailed methodology. Give those a read and let me know what you think. I can't believe you guys thought I was talking about the Newegg reviews or that I would ever take user reviews like that seriously, honestly that's kind of insulting. :3
The Anandtech and StorageReview reviews in particular stood out to me because of their detailed methodology. Give those a read and let me know what you think. I can't believe you guys thought I was talking about the Newegg reviews or that I would ever take user reviews like that seriously, honestly that's kind of insulting. :3
Saren is Bad
Member
Finally finished my build as follows:
PSU
CORSAIR HX Series CMPSU-850HX 850W ATX12V $148.49
CPU
Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) $328.99
Motherboard
ASUS P8P67 Pro (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX $154.99
Harddrives (with SSD and 2TB)
Western Digital Caviar Black 1 TB Desktop Hard Drive $89.99
Crucial Technology 128 GB Crucial RealSSD C300 Series Solid State Drive $229.49
GPU
EVGA GeForce GTX 580 Superclocked 1536 MB GDDR5 PCI-Express 2.0 $499.99
RAM
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) $99.99
CPU Cooler
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" $28.99
Disc Drive (with Bluray Drive)
Samsung Blu-Ray Internal SATA Drive with Lightscribe 12x BD-ROM 16x DVD-ROM 8x DVDRW $87.99
Case
Obsidian Series 800D ATX Gaming Case $269.99
Total $1,932.90
May go return the PSU for a better wattage because I plan on SLI'ing 580 later, dunno how much power I need.
PSU
CORSAIR HX Series CMPSU-850HX 850W ATX12V $148.49
CPU
Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) $328.99
Motherboard
ASUS P8P67 Pro (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX $154.99
Harddrives (with SSD and 2TB)
Western Digital Caviar Black 1 TB Desktop Hard Drive $89.99
Crucial Technology 128 GB Crucial RealSSD C300 Series Solid State Drive $229.49
GPU
EVGA GeForce GTX 580 Superclocked 1536 MB GDDR5 PCI-Express 2.0 $499.99
RAM
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) $99.99
CPU Cooler
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" $28.99
Disc Drive (with Bluray Drive)
Samsung Blu-Ray Internal SATA Drive with Lightscribe 12x BD-ROM 16x DVD-ROM 8x DVDRW $87.99
Case
Obsidian Series 800D ATX Gaming Case $269.99
Total $1,932.90
May go return the PSU for a better wattage because I plan on SLI'ing 580 later, dunno how much power I need.
Hawk269
Member
Saren is Bad said:
Do you plan to overclock your processor and the GPU in addition to getting a second 580? If so, I think you should. When I asked a similar question with the same PSU you have, I was advised that it would be very close with 2 580's. But when you factor in overclocking the cpu, 2xgpu's it will draw more power.
black_vegeta
Member
eznark said:
Usually Newegg has the "sold out" message when items are not in stock.
For the 650d, the message reads, "Deactivated. This item is currently out of stock and it may or may not be restocked."
I know they had an issue with the fans that they were sending out kits to customers that had the problem. Maybe I'm just thinking too much into it. :/
evil solrac v3.0
Member
black_vegeta said:
I saw that too and that is very weird. when they sell out they say "OUT OF STOCK" and they sometimes give an E.T.A of when they'll re-stock again, maybe someone made a mistake or something hopefully.
mclaren777
Member
Yikes! That seems a little...excessive.Saren is Bad said:
Hawk269
Member
Hey All-
My rig which is 2 weeks old has been perfect. No issues..that is until today. Earlier in the day, I downloaded the Witcher, played the game for a while and then stopped to watch the NBA games on tonight. Powered down the PC and all. As soon as I turned on the PC, when sitting on the desktop, the screen keeps blacking out like it is loosing signal or something. I reset the computer and it still is happening.
I do have an OC on my GPU's (SLI-580's). So I reset them to factory, dont think it was an issue since I have used the same OC since day one with no problems. After restarting, getting the same thing, screen flashes on and off at random. I did check the cables, and everthing is secure and plugged in, no loose connections. I did run eva scanner and getting no artifacts or anything like that with the cards.
What can it be and what else can I try?
My rig which is 2 weeks old has been perfect. No issues..that is until today. Earlier in the day, I downloaded the Witcher, played the game for a while and then stopped to watch the NBA games on tonight. Powered down the PC and all. As soon as I turned on the PC, when sitting on the desktop, the screen keeps blacking out like it is loosing signal or something. I reset the computer and it still is happening.
I do have an OC on my GPU's (SLI-580's). So I reset them to factory, dont think it was an issue since I have used the same OC since day one with no problems. After restarting, getting the same thing, screen flashes on and off at random. I did check the cables, and everthing is secure and plugged in, no loose connections. I did run eva scanner and getting no artifacts or anything like that with the cards.
What can it be and what else can I try?
mclaren777 said:
I'm confused by that case. There appears to be a fan built in by the harddrive bays but then there is no ventilation there? What would that do? Maybe it's just hard to see the vent or something but it appears that the fan will blow directly into the side of the case which would fit flush against it.
I would personally recommend a NZXT Phantom case. That thing is fucking quiet as shit and has a ton of ventilation on it. I built a PC for a friend based around the case and I really liked it. The only issue is that the hard drive bays sit sideways and it makes the SATA and power cords a little tight but it is workable and it comes stock with 4 really quiet fans. Seriously, you can barely tell the thing is on.
Hawk269 said:
You reseated the cards as well? You might try yanking them and plugging them in one at a time. Sounds like one may be going bad and I'd guess the other one is still trying to display which causes the flashing like maybe one is going bad but not completely bad and you're not losing signal completely due to the other one still displaying ok? Not sure if that sounds right though as I haven't worked with a dual card rig.
I built a PC for my friend here recently (same one mentioned above) and I had to RMA the video card because it was losing signal after start up (it would display fine through the startup sequence and then lose signal as soon as it loaded the desktop) caused by a bad card (fan was still spinning fine so it wasn't completely dead but I plugged in another card and it cleared up so I'm positive it is the card.) Currently awaiting a new card to replace it with. It was a GTX 560 Ti.
Hawk269
Member
Aselith said:
Thanks. I pulled out both cards. My GPU1 which was my primary card, I pulled out and left it out of the rig. I moved GPU2 into the main slot and tested and the same issue. It is late and I have to be up in 4 hours for work, so I will try GPU1 by itself tomorrow to see if it is doing it as well. If they are both doing it, what could of caused someting like this to happen? I mean, I was gaming for a few hours, turned off the PC for about 4-5 hours, turn it back on and problems. Could it be anyting else other than the cards?
Thanks in advance for any and all help.
cartman414
Member
·feist· said:Some more Intel "leaked slides" have popped up. If these are true, it looks like the 8 core 20M cache engineering samples won't have a client equivalent anytime soon.
Intel has already said that pricing for the LGA2011 Sandy Bridge-E 4 core will come in around what the 2600K goes for. The non-XE 6 core will supposedly fall within the $550-650 range, and the range topper should fill in the ~$1,000 XE slot.
Intel Desktop Processor: Enthusiast Roadmap
Sandy Bridge-E & Ivy Bridge
X79 LGA2011 6 core
3.3GHz, 15M Cache
3.2GHz, 12M Cache
X79 LGA2011 4 core
3.6GHz, 10M Cache
Intel Desktop Chipset: Roadmap - Consumer Platforms
Intel Z68 Chipset, Intel X79 Chipset, Intel Z77 Chipset, Intel Z75 Chipset, Intel H77 Chipset
Intel Desktop Chipset: Roadmap - Business Platforms
Intel Q77 Chipset, Intel Q75 Chipset, Intel B75 Chipset
edit:
Intel Consumer Desktop Platform Roadmap
Just spotted the top diagram before I came back to this thread just now. Can't believe I missed all of this. Thanks for the info.
SB-E appears to be more an evolution of X58 than a serious bump up. Which is okay, because the architecture gets more mileage out of the same clock speeds as Nehalem.
I guess it comes down to what you prefer: 1) full-on overclockability, 2x16/4x8 SLI/Crossfire right out of the box, quad channel memory, higher core and cache counts, or... 2) with Ivy Bridge: PCI Express 3.0, USB 3.0 included in the package, onboard graphics processing (including QuickSync), and better power efficiency. And of course the latter being less expensive.
I know it's not news, but it's kind of ironic how their enthusiast update won't have either of the 3.0 updates, even though the update of its mainstream counterpart, which is due mere months afterwards, actually will.
Hawk269 said:
The only other thing I could recommend is try resetting to default drivers and see if there is some issue with a corrupted driver. Just try reinstalling from the driver disk and look for a check box to uninstall the current drivers before reinstalling so that you start with a clean slate when you do the install.
I'm not sure if you'd be able to run it like this but it should be fine, if the other stuff doesn't work, you might try checking with a card on the seconadry slot. Doubtful in my mind but I suppose there could be a problem with the actual PCI-E slot on the motherboard.
Hawk269
Member
Aselith said:
Already did the fresh install of drivers and it is still doing the same thing. Tomorrow, I will put the one GPU in the 2nd slot to see if that is also causing it. Man, I am really pissed right now. I feel like I just wasted $2500 bucks for a paperweight. I guess what gets me is that this rig has been running perfect for 2 weeks, no issues at all. Ran great all day today, but now all of a sudden issues. Extremly frustrating.
Hawk269 said:
Hey man, that's the exact same thing that happened to my last rig. On of my 460s died and caused SLI instability and the screen to lose signal constantly. I did unigine runs with one card at a time and quickly found that one of the was broken.
Have you tried extensive stresstesting with one gpu at a time?
edit :
these new families of nvidia drivers, do they really do a "clean install" when that box is checked? I mean is it nowadays unneccessary to go through all the uninstall/safemode/install motions?
Hazaro said:
I'll give it another test this weekend. I'm tempted to buy a second fan to put on the other side of the heat sink.
I love the size of the 600T case, but people are right, the fans in it are pretty weak. But I got the case for $125 so I thought it was a steal.
The HS seems clamped on pretty well to the CPU. I bought the K for future overclocking but I'm happy with the system as it is now, so when I feel the urge to overclock I will clean off the paste and reseat the HS to see if that makes any difference.
Hey I built my computer maybe about 5 months ago. It's been working fine up until just last month. I haven't been using my computer much so I turned it off (working fine up until this point) I left it off for about 2 weeks. I was also not around it much and it was in a public area. When I plugged it back in and everything the monitor was completely black. I found it was due to my Graphics Card (460GTX) and nothing would display while it was plugged in, I reseated it and nothing changed. I assume it's burned out? But I don't understand how this could have happened being unplugged for 2 weeks. Any ideas?
rc213 said:
Might be done for now unless I find a nice modular psu on sale. I'm really surprised how quiet it is compared to the P180. 140mm>120mm CM690 II Advanced is fucking badass, Still can't believe I picked it up for $50.
It just goes to show that the most important thing to keeping things low noise is to manage fan speeds. The P180 reduces a lot of the vibrations you hear in a case (where the CM 690 doesn't really), but if the fan speeds aren't managed, it will still sound loud. Reducing vibrations is only worth it once fan noises are low enough to notice them.
I really like the new CM 690 II though. Big improvement over the original, which I owned on my last system.
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