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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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Smokey

Member
scogoth said:
And? 590 draws 450W under full load. Two 580s draw 488W and two 570s draw 438W. A 850W PSU is just fine for that.
Is that right?

I thought sli 580s required a 1000w or so...I'm at work but I can't check..please don't play with my heart
 

scogoth

Member
Smokey said:
Is that right?

I thought sli 580s required a 1000w or so...I'm at work but I can't check..please don't play with my heart

I'm not playing, lol

Worst case
2 580s 488W
2500k 95W
Everything else ~150W
Total 733W

Theres not a lot of room for ocing but your still fine. Go with 570s if you want to OC to give you that extra room. Ocing a 2500k to 4.5 requires about 140W so 45W more then stock.
 

Dedalus

Member
I just took the SSD plunge and bough an OCZ Vertex 3 120GB that was on offer from overclockers.co.uk. My motherboard only supports SATA II, and from reading reviews the OCZ is best used with SATA III for the 6GB pipe. My question is: what's a good mid-range i7 mobo with SATA III?
 

scogoth

Member
Dedalus said:
I just took the SSD plunge and bough an OCZ Vertex 3 120GB that was on offer from overclockers.co.uk. My motherboard only supports SATA II, and from reading reviews the OCZ is best used with SATA III for the 6GB pipe. My question is: what's a good mid-range i7 mobo with SATA III?

Are we looking at 1156 mobos or 1366 mobos? Both have i7 processors.
 

Hawk269

Member
scogoth said:
No you won't, just go into the nvidia control panel and check SLI on.




Looks like a great build! Don't be nervous just have fun with building it. Hardest thing for newer builder is the thermal paste and I'm fairly certain the H70 has it pre applied. You're going to have a sick looking build at the end.

Have you bought the parts yet? You might want to look into a P67 Sabertooth motherboard, its about $25 more the a P6P67 Pro. Its a great board for overclocking and temps and looks fabulous in the FT02

EDIT: pics so sexy WARNING PC PORN
TUNza.jpg

v2WvZ.jpg

JCxA3.jpg

F5P5c.jpg

WoW...some of the best computer porn I have seen. The only thing you need is to order a backplate for you 570. That is the only thing that makes it look a little off. Other than that, I think that is the cleanest set up I have seen.
 

scogoth

Member
Hawk269 said:
WoW...some of the best computer porn I have seen. The only thing you need is to order a backplate for you 570. That is the only thing that makes it look a little off. Other than that, I think that is the cleanest set up I have seen.

I would if it were my build. Unfortunately I can not lay claim to that wonderful beast.
 

scogoth

Member
Hawk269 said:
http://www.evga.com/products/moreInfo.asp?pn=M020-00-000225&family=Accessories - Hardware&sw=4

Basically it is really for looks, but some claim that it does shave a little bit of heat off of the cards. They are just a metal plate that covers the PCB, it has openining for whatever chips are facing out of the card. It makes it look really clean.

It also protects them from being damaged if you move them or something else hits them. But mostly cause it looks cool.
 

CrankyJay

Banned
Kind of just had a weird thing happen to me.

1. Windows wasn't activated, so I went to put in my valid key.

2. The key was from an upgrade disc, so Windows gave me some crap about it not being valid since it was for upgrade only and not clean installs. So I followed the registry hacks at: http://www.winsupersite.com/article/windows-7/clean-install-windows-7-with-upgrade-media

3. Rebooted and entered my key. Windows is activated.

4. Shutdown the computer for 5 seconds (even though Windows is activated I still get the "Ask for genuine Microsoft software" graphic...isn't my copy genuine?)

5. On power up, my ASUS p67 EVO MB shot me an error saying "Failed to overclock." Problem is, I'm not overclocking. I'm using stock settings.

Should I be double checking stuff in my motherboard? If so, what am I checking? Processor is i7-2600k.

edit: Found this from ASUS

Some of you may have been experiencing a double POST on your P8P67 series motherboard whereupon after powering on the system from a cold boot, the board will power on and then immediately reset itself before it actually POSTs and shows any display on the screen. I’ll explain the fix below and give some information about why this happens.
First, I would like to stress the importance of flashing the BIOS to the latest BIOS revision as listed on our support website, http://support.asus.com/download. You can access the ASUS EZ Flash tool from within the UEFI (advanced options, tools) to flash the BIOS from any removable device such as a USB flash drive.

From time to time we needed to implement full resets in order to maintain stability due to the architecture of the Sandy Bridge platform. For instance, the system may require one full reset when the PCH power has been cut during S5 power state. To fix the most common additional reset (double POST when powering on from off state), enter UEFI BIOS -> go to ‘Advanced’ tab -> go down to ‘APM’, press Enter -> enable the “Power on by PCIe.” function. Then press F10 to save & exit. After save & exit, let the system boot into Windows or other OS, then perform a proper shutdown: Start button -> Shut down. You will no longer have the double POST. We will fix this in an upcoming BIOS release.

Is this a symptom of me shutting down and powering back up too quickly?
 

Hawk269

Member
scogoth said:
It also protects them from being damaged if you move them or something else hits them. But mostly cause it looks cool.

Yeah, sorry I did not mention that as well. It does protect the PCB board, so when you are moving the card around, it is easier to handle. I have tem on my cards and they do really look good.

If anyone is getting an EVGA card, one thing that is recommended is the high flow brackets. This basically replaces the stock bracket that bolts to the back of your PC. It has larger openings to allow more hear/air to exit the cards. This definately shaves temps of the cards that they are installed on. On my 580 at load I saw a 5c decrease in heat when running the same benchmark for the same amount of time.
 

Hawk269

Member
CrankyJay said:
Kind of just had a weird thing happen to me.

1. Windows wasn't activated, so I went to put in my valid key.

2. The key was from an upgrade disc, so Windows gave me some crap about it not being valid since it was for upgrade only and not clean installs. So I followed the registry hacks at: http://www.winsupersite.com/article/windows-7/clean-install-windows-7-with-upgrade-media

3. Rebooted and entered my key. Windows is activated.

4. Shutdown the computer for 5 seconds (even though Windows is activated I still get the "Ask for genuine Microsoft software" graphic...isn't my copy genuine?)

5. On power up, my ASUS p67 EVO MB shot me an error saying "Failed to overclock." Problem is, I'm not overclocking. I'm using stock settings.

Should I be double checking stuff in my motherboard? If so, what am I checking? Processor is i7-2600k.

edit: Found this from ASUS



Is this a symptom of me shutting down and powering back up too quickly?

No it is not. I researched this alot when it was happening to me and what i was told by an ASUS rep is that it is applying the overclock then it shuts off and then restarts. I have had no issues with my MB and I shut down all the time since my rig was built to game only, so I only power on when I intend to play a game. It has done that with mine since day one and no issues.

Just an update, it looks like a new bios version was released a few weeks ago. It just says it improves compatibility. Out of curiosity, I am going to try what was posted above to see what it does.
 

vexvegaz

Member
out of curiousity, what kind of temps are you guys getting with your gtx 570 - 580 on full load?
i never took the time to find out the temps. i just plug them em to boot test then slapped on the WB.

PS tnks for sharing the evga backplate link. i was gonna pick up the EK one but this might just do and its cheaper too
 

Dedalus

Member
scogoth said:
Are we looking at 1156 mobos or 1366 mobos? Both have i7 processors.
1366. I have the Asus P6t SE which I chose to go with my i7 920. I can see a dearth of SATA 6GB capable mobo's but I'm not sure what puts one ahead of the other.
 

CrankyJay

Banned
Hawk269 said:
No it is not. I researched this alot when it was happening to me and what i was told by an ASUS rep is that it is applying the overclock then it shuts off and then restarts. I have had no issues with my MB and I shut down all the time since my rig was built to game only, so I only power on when I intend to play a game. It has done that with mine since day one and no issues.

Just an update, it looks like a new bios version was released a few weeks ago. It just says it improves compatibility. Out of curiosity, I am going to try what was posted above to see what it does.

Are you overclocking though? I'm assuming yes since your primary use is gaming.
 

Hawk269

Member
CrankyJay said:
Are you overclocking though? I'm assuming yes since your primary use is gaming.

Yes, I am. I am at 4.5 right now and that is pretty much where i plan to keep it at. That is about a 33% improvement over stock speeds and I really dont need to go much higher than that, even though I do have room to do it.
 

scy

Member
So, GAF, looking for some advice on a build. Currently looking at the following while keeping it around the $1000 mark:

CPU: Intel i5-2500k ($225)
GPU: MSI Radeon HD 6950 ($275)
RAM: 4 GB DDR3 ($45)
PSU: OCZ 500W ($65)
Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 PRO Rev 3.0 ($180)
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 ($35)

More-or-less ripped from the build in the OP so I don't have issue with most of it. Maybe bump up to an Antec 650W PSU but nothing major to be done as far as I know.

Case ... I'm unsure of. Looking at Lian Li K58 ($70) or the K-62 ($100) but open to suggestions.

Also, suggestions on SSDs? I honestly have no idea about basically anything here and was just looking for a ~60 GB one for about $120, barring some life changing information to make a larger one worth it. Crucial has a 64 GB SATA III for $135 but no idea on quality there honestly.

So basically looking for some Case or SSD suggestions. Want to keep the case relatively cheap (i.e., sub-$100). The two Lian Lis look good enough but figure a second opinion can't hurt (plus a guarantee that the card and cooler fit it). And then I just know nothing about SSDs.
 

InertiaXr

Member
scy said:
So basically looking for some Case or SSD suggestions. Want to keep the case relatively cheap (i.e., sub-$100). The two Lian Lis look good enough but figure a second opinion can't hurt (plus a guarantee that the card and cooler fit it). And then I just know nothing about SSDs.

Case: CM 690 Advanced II
 

DeVeAn

Member
What should I be looking to spend on a gaming PC if I want games running at a consistent 60fps with a high native resolution? Games like Mafia 2, borderlands, DMC4. Is it possible to get something like that for $1200? I am willing to save up and pay more just need some advice. The OP seems overwhelming.
 
I decided to upgrade from my Q6600 and 4870, and over the past 2 months have been buying components looking for deals.

6950 2GB = $235
2500k = $190 at Microcenter
8GB Gskill Sniper 8GB 1600 = $60
Corsair A70 = $28 on clearance at Best Buy
Asrock Extreme4 = only thing I bought at full price cause I wanted this one, $170

As you can tell, I'm kind of cheap so I'm waiting on SSDs. I also will get the Corsair 650D case if they ever have a windowless option.
 

ithorien

Member
vexvegaz said:
out of curiousity, what kind of temps are you guys getting with your gtx 570 - 580 on full load?
i never took the time to find out the temps. i just plug them em to boot test then slapped on the WB.

PS tnks for sharing the evga backplate link. i was gonna pick up the EK one but this might just do and its cheaper too

84 degrees C on the EVGA GTX 570
 

TheExodu5

Banned
darthbob said:
That seems too hot. My GTX570 gets to like 80C on 100% load. And I have terrible airflow.

What's your voltage at?

It's normal. It all depends on the fan control.

I have an EVGA as well, and it runs at 85C at 60% fan speed under (Furmark) load. Default clocks and 1.0V.
 

scogoth

Member
Dedalus said:
1366. I have the Asus P6t SE which I chose to go with my i7 920. I can see a dearth of SATA 6GB capable mobo's but I'm not sure what puts one ahead of the other.

EVGA x58 SLI3 for $200 is not bad. Pretty much any x58 board is $200-600 nowadays.
 
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=27490651&postcount=15052
scogoth said:
Intels SSD roadmap

20110427-22374883--intelssdroadmap.jpg

Intel Future SSD Models Leaked!
http://www.techarp.com/showarticle.aspx?artno=723&pgno=0

Just when we thought we lost our friend in Intel, he came through for us! Last year, he was suddenly transferred to a different department and we thought we lost our source of all those goodies we posted on Intel processors and whatnots, but what do you know - he now has the goodies on Intel's solid state drive (SSD) programme!

As you all know, Intel recently launched the new Intel 320 Series SSD based on the spanking new 25 nm NAND flash memory. Well, according to our source, that's just the tip of the Intel lance. Intel will be releasing two new solid state drive series for the 2.5" form factor and check this out - Intel will also be taking on the desktop market! Details to follow. First, let's take a look at the two new SSD series :

more...

Intel 520 Series SSD - SATA 3 Gb/s & 6 Gb/s
Intel 710 Series SSD - SATA 3 Gb/s & 6 Gb/s
Intel_520_ssd.jpg
Intel_710_ssd.jpg


Intel 330P Series PCIe SSD - PCI Express x4 revision 2.0
Intel 530P Series PCIe SSD - PCI Express x4 revision 2.0
Intel_330p_ssd.jpg
Intel_530p_ssd.jpg


Intel 720P Series PCIe SSD - PCI Express x4 revision 2.0
Intel_720p_ssd.jpg
 

LiK

Member
Everything set.....except it won't turn on when I press power switch. Mobo light is on, all cables are secure. WTF...
 
LiK said:
Everything set.....except it won't turn on when I press power switch. Mobo light is on, all cables are secure. WTF...
Double-check that the ram is seated properly, and the front panel connectors are as well (positive/negative and firmly in place).


black_vegeta said:
This is a pretty good detailed video showing the temp differences between the Corsair H70 - Noctua D14.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AU6W_YkqILY&feature=feedu
Not sure how many people I've told that the Corsair H70 is a poor buy. This is just further evidence.

Between performance, noise and costs:

Thermalright Silver Arrow > Noctua NH-D14 > Corsair H70.


scy said:
So, GAF, looking for some advice on a build. Currently looking at the following while keeping it around the $1000 mark:

CPU: Intel i5-2500k ($225)
GPU: MSI Radeon HD 6950 ($275)
RAM: 4 GB DDR3 ($45)
PSU: OCZ 500W ($65)
Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 PRO Rev 3.0 ($180)
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 ($35)

More-or-less ripped from the build in the OP so I don't have issue with most of it. Maybe bump up to an Antec 650W PSU but nothing major to be done as far as I know.

Case ... I'm unsure of. Looking at Lian Li K58 ($70) or the K-62 ($100) but open to suggestions.

Also, suggestions on SSDs? I honestly have no idea about basically anything here and was just looking for a ~60 GB one for about $120, barring some life changing information to make a larger one worth it. Crucial has a 64 GB SATA III for $135 but no idea on quality there honestly.

So basically looking for some Case or SSD suggestions. Want to keep the case relatively cheap (i.e., sub-$100). The two Lian Lis look good enough but figure a second opinion can't hurt (plus a guarantee that the card and cooler fit it). And then I just know nothing about SSDs.
Don't pay $35 for a Hyper 212+. Its MSRP is $29.99.
Between those two cases, I'd opt for the K62 (or, possibly, the newer PC-K68X-E). There are a few more recommendations in the OP. Take a look at some reviews and videos to see if any catch your eye.
There has been a lot of SSD discussion over the last few pages, from recommendations, to deals posted, to owner experiences from GAF members.
 
ASRock's 9 page breakdown of their Z68 Extreme4 board. Has info on Lucid Virtu and other Z68 features like Intel Smart Response aka RST/SSD caching.

Intel Z68 Chipset
http://www.asrock.com/download/e-catalog/Z68 Extreme4.pdf

Gq8BX.jpg


Intel RST 9.x / 10.x / 11.0 Feature Set Reference Table
llL2q.png



LiK said:
I have the Asus P8P67Pro and the RAM is in the Blue slots. That's correct right?
Yeah. Along with checking the ram and connectors, you can also try running one stick of memory at a time, just in case.
 

bananaman1234

Unconfirmed Member
I have an annoying issue with the power. Every time I press the power button on my case to turn on the computer, everything starts up for a few seconds (fans, drives, etc), then shuts off, then turns back on and powers normally. Any ideas?
 

Velion

Member
isoku said:
I have an annoying issue with the power. Every time I press the power button on my case to turn on the computer, everything starts up for a few seconds (fans, drives, etc), then shuts off, then turns back on and powers normally. Any ideas?
If its an Asus P8P67 motherboard, update bios to remove the double post.
 

Ashhong

Member
Syphon Filter said:
Going to build my first new PC soon. Any tips for the cpu part. It's kind of scary. 0_o

Are you getting an aftermarket CPU cooler? If not, the CPU is like the easiest part. You just place the cpu into the little square, lock it, place fan on top and you're done.
 

Trojita

Rapid Response Threadmaker
I'll ask here too

I have been interested in getting an HTPC so that I can surf my shows and movies from the couch with my Harmony Remote. I was thinking about getting a Mac Mini when the refresh comes out, but who knows when that is finally going to happen?

I need my HTPC to

Play any file type flawlessly
1080p even at a high bit rate
5.1 out to a receiver through HDMI using either using PCM or able to decode the codecs on each file type correctly.
Work without a lot of problems.

A plus would be emulation support, but that is not necessary.

Is running XBMC on Windows or Linux better? I would have it likely set to run on startup.

Also I'm assuming that XBMC is still the preferable software to use? Is there anything better out now?
 
Hey guys wonder if I could get a little help.

I built a pc last week with the 570gtx from evga. I decided to then jump to the 580gtx super clocked evga card.

For whatever reason I get this bizarre texture flashing in crisis and metro 2033 that's not there with the 570. Characters and trees and ground begin to flash red or green. It usually takes about 10 minutes for this to occur. If I alt-tab out of the game the hop back in it happens immediately.

Using the binocs in crisis will sometimes create a bizarre tunnel of white flashing textures. This is not always reproducible.

I've checked the seating of the card uninstalled then reinstalled the drivers.

My specs are

Asrock p67 extreme4
I7 2600k with coolermaster 212(not oced)
8gb ram corsair vengeance
Corsair tx 750 power supply
Intel 320 120ssd
WD 3tb 7200 hd
Win-7 64 bit


The card is idle at 30 celsius and hits about 60 under stress.

3d mark also has weird flashing and sometimes signal drop out?

Am I missing something? Do I have something set wrong or is the card fubar? Any and all help is greatly appreciated!
 

Smokey

Member
Smokey said:
Corsair 8GB Ram
ASUS GTX 580
LG Blue ray drive
Samsung f4 2tb
Intel 300 series 160gb
Win 7
Asus 23" 120hz w/ 3d kit


FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU I DID IT. PRESSED DAT SUBMIT ORDER BUTTON

champagne.jpg


After a year + of agonizing wait and research....i will officially be apart of the MASTER RACE next week when these final pieces arrive.

wow

sorry for over excitement but it's hard to put into words how i feel after wanting to do this for so long lol
 

scogoth

Member
The Teachinator said:
Hey guys wonder if I could get a little help.

I built a pc last week with the 570gtx from evga. I decided to then jump to the 580gtx super clocked evga card.

For whatever reason I get this bizarre texture flashing in crisis and metro 2033 that's not there with the 570. Characters and trees and ground begin to flash red or green. It usually takes about 10 minutes for this to occur. If I alt-tab out of the game the hop back in it happens immediately.

Using the binocs in crisis will sometimes create a bizarre tunnel of white flashing textures. This is not always reproducible.

I've checked the seating of the card uninstalled then reinstalled the drivers.

My specs are

Asrock p67 extreme4
I7 2600k with coolermaster 212(not oced)
8gb ram corsair vengeance
Corsair tx 750 power supply
Intel 320 120ssd
WD 3tb 7200 hd
Win-7 64 bit


The card is idle at 30 celsius and hits about 60 under stress.

3d mark also has weird flashing and sometimes signal drop out?

Am I missing something? Do I have something set wrong or is the card fubar? Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

Card could be bad. Get it replaced EVGA or your retailer will have no problems with replacing the card.
 
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