Is that right?scogoth said:And? 590 draws 450W under full load. Two 580s draw 488W and two 570s draw 438W. A 850W PSU is just fine for that.
I thought sli 580s required a 1000w or so...I'm at work but I can't check..please don't play with my heart
Is that right?scogoth said:And? 590 draws 450W under full load. Two 580s draw 488W and two 570s draw 438W. A 850W PSU is just fine for that.
Smokey said:Is that right?
I thought sli 580s required a 1000w or so...I'm at work but I can't check..please don't play with my heart
EricHasNoPull said:What does GAF think of this Card and the price?
Plus, Do the "Mail-In-Rebates" ever work?
Please let me know, as today is the last day for this sale.
Dedalus said:I just took the SSD plunge and bough an OCZ Vertex 3 120GB that was on offer from overclockers.co.uk. My motherboard only supports SATA II, and from reading reviews the OCZ is best used with SATA III for the 6GB pipe. My question is: what's a good mid-range i7 mobo with SATA III?
scogoth said:No you won't, just go into the nvidia control panel and check SLI on.
Looks like a great build! Don't be nervous just have fun with building it. Hardest thing for newer builder is the thermal paste and I'm fairly certain the H70 has it pre applied. You're going to have a sick looking build at the end.
Have you bought the parts yet? You might want to look into a P67 Sabertooth motherboard, its about $25 more the a P6P67 Pro. Its a great board for overclocking and temps and looks fabulous in the FT02
EDIT: pics so sexy WARNING PC PORN
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Hawk269 said:WoW...some of the best computer porn I have seen. The only thing you need is to order a backplate for you 570. That is the only thing that makes it look a little off. Other than that, I think that is the cleanest set up I have seen.
I got an EVGA one cheaper than that, but that sale is over.EricHasNoPull said:What does GAF think of this Card and the price?
Plus, Do the "Mail-In-Rebates" ever work?
Please let me know, as today is the last day for this sale.
black_vegeta said:What are these backplates for GPU's that you folks are speaking of???
Link?
black_vegeta said:What are these backplates for GPU's that you folks are speaking of???
Link?
Hawk269 said:http://www.evga.com/products/moreInfo.asp?pn=M020-00-000225&family=Accessories - Hardware&sw=4
Basically it is really for looks, but some claim that it does shave a little bit of heat off of the cards. They are just a metal plate that covers the PCB, it has openining for whatever chips are facing out of the card. It makes it look really clean.
Hawk269 said:http://www.evga.com/products/moreInfo.asp?pn=M020-00-000225&family=Accessories - Hardware&sw=4
Basically it is really for looks, but some claim that it does shave a little bit of heat off of the cards. They are just a metal plate that covers the PCB, it has openining for whatever chips are facing out of the card. It makes it look really clean.
Some of you may have been experiencing a double POST on your P8P67 series motherboard whereupon after powering on the system from a cold boot, the board will power on and then immediately reset itself before it actually POSTs and shows any display on the screen. Ill explain the fix below and give some information about why this happens.
First, I would like to stress the importance of flashing the BIOS to the latest BIOS revision as listed on our support website, http://support.asus.com/download. You can access the ASUS EZ Flash tool from within the UEFI (advanced options, tools) to flash the BIOS from any removable device such as a USB flash drive.
From time to time we needed to implement full resets in order to maintain stability due to the architecture of the Sandy Bridge platform. For instance, the system may require one full reset when the PCH power has been cut during S5 power state. To fix the most common additional reset (double POST when powering on from off state), enter UEFI BIOS -> go to Advanced tab -> go down to APM, press Enter -> enable the Power on by PCIe. function. Then press F10 to save & exit. After save & exit, let the system boot into Windows or other OS, then perform a proper shutdown: Start button -> Shut down. You will no longer have the double POST. We will fix this in an upcoming BIOS release.
scogoth said:It also protects them from being damaged if you move them or something else hits them. But mostly cause it looks cool.
CrankyJay said:Kind of just had a weird thing happen to me.
1. Windows wasn't activated, so I went to put in my valid key.
2. The key was from an upgrade disc, so Windows gave me some crap about it not being valid since it was for upgrade only and not clean installs. So I followed the registry hacks at: http://www.winsupersite.com/article/windows-7/clean-install-windows-7-with-upgrade-media
3. Rebooted and entered my key. Windows is activated.
4. Shutdown the computer for 5 seconds (even though Windows is activated I still get the "Ask for genuine Microsoft software" graphic...isn't my copy genuine?)
5. On power up, my ASUS p67 EVO MB shot me an error saying "Failed to overclock." Problem is, I'm not overclocking. I'm using stock settings.
Should I be double checking stuff in my motherboard? If so, what am I checking? Processor is i7-2600k.
edit: Found this from ASUS
Is this a symptom of me shutting down and powering back up too quickly?
1366. I have the Asus P6t SE which I chose to go with my i7 920. I can see a dearth of SATA 6GB capable mobo's but I'm not sure what puts one ahead of the other.scogoth said:Are we looking at 1156 mobos or 1366 mobos? Both have i7 processors.
Hawk269 said:No it is not. I researched this alot when it was happening to me and what i was told by an ASUS rep is that it is applying the overclock then it shuts off and then restarts. I have had no issues with my MB and I shut down all the time since my rig was built to game only, so I only power on when I intend to play a game. It has done that with mine since day one and no issues.
Just an update, it looks like a new bios version was released a few weeks ago. It just says it improves compatibility. Out of curiosity, I am going to try what was posted above to see what it does.
CrankyJay said:Are you overclocking though? I'm assuming yes since your primary use is gaming.
scy said:So basically looking for some Case or SSD suggestions. Want to keep the case relatively cheap (i.e., sub-$100). The two Lian Lis look good enough but figure a second opinion can't hurt (plus a guarantee that the card and cooler fit it). And then I just know nothing about SSDs.
vexvegaz said:out of curiousity, what kind of temps are you guys getting with your gtx 570 - 580 on full load?
i never took the time to find out the temps. i just plug them em to boot test then slapped on the WB.
PS tnks for sharing the evga backplate link. i was gonna pick up the EK one but this might just do and its cheaper too
ithorien said:84 degrees C on the EVGA GTX 570
darthbob said:That seems too hot. My GTX570 gets to like 80C on 100% load. And I have terrible airflow.
What's your voltage at?
Dedalus said:1366. I have the Asus P6t SE which I chose to go with my i7 920. I can see a dearth of SATA 6GB capable mobo's but I'm not sure what puts one ahead of the other.
darthbob said:That seems too hot. My GTX570 gets to like 80C on 100% load. And I have terrible airflow.
What's your voltage at?
scogoth said:GTX470 in SLI. Slight OC, 95 under load. Thats a hot card.
scogoth said:Intels SSD roadmap
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Just when we thought we lost our friend in Intel, he came through for us! Last year, he was suddenly transferred to a different department and we thought we lost our source of all those goodies we posted on Intel processors and whatnots, but what do you know - he now has the goodies on Intel's solid state drive (SSD) programme!
As you all know, Intel recently launched the new Intel 320 Series SSD based on the spanking new 25 nm NAND flash memory. Well, according to our source, that's just the tip of the Intel lance. Intel will be releasing two new solid state drive series for the 2.5" form factor and check this out - Intel will also be taking on the desktop market! Details to follow. First, let's take a look at the two new SSD series :
more...
Double-check that the ram is seated properly, and the front panel connectors are as well (positive/negative and firmly in place).LiK said:Everything set.....except it won't turn on when I press power switch. Mobo light is on, all cables are secure. WTF...
Not sure how many people I've told that the Corsair H70 is a poor buy. This is just further evidence.black_vegeta said:This is a pretty good detailed video showing the temp differences between the Corsair H70 - Noctua D14.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AU6W_YkqILY&feature=feedu
Don't pay $35 for a Hyper 212+. Its MSRP is $29.99.scy said:So, GAF, looking for some advice on a build. Currently looking at the following while keeping it around the $1000 mark:
CPU: Intel i5-2500k ($225)
GPU: MSI Radeon HD 6950 ($275)
RAM: 4 GB DDR3 ($45)
PSU: OCZ 500W ($65)
Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 PRO Rev 3.0 ($180)
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 ($35)
More-or-less ripped from the build in the OP so I don't have issue with most of it. Maybe bump up to an Antec 650W PSU but nothing major to be done as far as I know.
Case ... I'm unsure of. Looking at Lian Li K58 ($70) or the K-62 ($100) but open to suggestions.
Also, suggestions on SSDs? I honestly have no idea about basically anything here and was just looking for a ~60 GB one for about $120, barring some life changing information to make a larger one worth it. Crucial has a 64 GB SATA III for $135 but no idea on quality there honestly.
So basically looking for some Case or SSD suggestions. Want to keep the case relatively cheap (i.e., sub-$100). The two Lian Lis look good enough but figure a second opinion can't hurt (plus a guarantee that the card and cooler fit it). And then I just know nothing about SSDs.
Yeah. Along with checking the ram and connectors, you can also try running one stick of memory at a time, just in case.LiK said:I have the Asus P8P67Pro and the RAM is in the Blue slots. That's correct right?
black_vegeta said:Here's a quick video showing the temp differences between the Corsair H70 - Noctua D14.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AU6W_YkqILY&feature=feedu
If its an Asus P8P67 motherboard, update bios to remove the double post.isoku said:I have an annoying issue with the power. Every time I press the power button on my case to turn on the computer, everything starts up for a few seconds (fans, drives, etc), then shuts off, then turns back on and powers normally. Any ideas?
This was it thanks. Figured out it only happens when you disconnect the power from the mobo.Velion said:If its an Asus P8P67 motherboard, update bios to remove the double post.
Syphon Filter said:Going to build my first new PC soon. Any tips for the cpu part. It's kind of scary. 0_o
Smokey said:Corsair 8GB Ram
ASUS GTX 580
LG Blue ray drive
Samsung f4 2tb
Intel 300 series 160gb
Win 7
Asus 23" 120hz w/ 3d kit
The Teachinator said:Hey guys wonder if I could get a little help.
I built a pc last week with the 570gtx from evga. I decided to then jump to the 580gtx super clocked evga card.
For whatever reason I get this bizarre texture flashing in crisis and metro 2033 that's not there with the 570. Characters and trees and ground begin to flash red or green. It usually takes about 10 minutes for this to occur. If I alt-tab out of the game the hop back in it happens immediately.
Using the binocs in crisis will sometimes create a bizarre tunnel of white flashing textures. This is not always reproducible.
I've checked the seating of the card uninstalled then reinstalled the drivers.
My specs are
Asrock p67 extreme4
I7 2600k with coolermaster 212(not oced)
8gb ram corsair vengeance
Corsair tx 750 power supply
Intel 320 120ssd
WD 3tb 7200 hd
Win-7 64 bit
The card is idle at 30 celsius and hits about 60 under stress.
3d mark also has weird flashing and sometimes signal drop out?
Am I missing something? Do I have something set wrong or is the card fubar? Any and all help is greatly appreciated!