• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

Status
Not open for further replies.

JaseC

gave away the keys to the kingdom.
mrklaw said:
1) its a bit crappy IMO, the GPU isn't that great
2) there is a gaming laptop thread here where you'll get tons of info. Google search 'gamer laptop' (gaming laptop doesn't seem to work)
3) I have an acer aspire 5750G, sandy bridge i5-2410m, Nvidia 540M. Cost me £600 UK, so probably about $700? Plays games fine. If you use up all your budget you can probably get one with a GTX460M or similar which will rock for gaming

Here it is: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=386622&page=37
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
Hey guys I think this thread is more suitable for this question :

I'm having issues with D3doverrider on my new laptop. I'm playing SF4 and according to the benchmark I hover around 90fps with all settings max ( no AA ).

Enabling v-sync introduces inputlag ( obviously :( )
Playing without gives me unbearable tearing,
Yet if I run with d3doverrider the game "feels like playing slow-mo" and the fpscounter ingame shows an apparent ceiling of 50fps for some wierd reason.

My gpu is 5650 mobility and 11.4 catalyst.

I haven't had a ati gpu in ages, but do you even use d3doverrider with ati cards? Anyways, thanks in advance.

<3<3<3
 
Madison Paige said:
I apologize if this isn't the right place for this, and if so, I will move it to the appropriate place.

So, I purchased the "Damn Capable" build, and all the parts came in today. I've spent several hours getting it all together, but it doesn't seem to be working. Everything's connected as it should be, to the best of my knowledge. When I turn it on, the speaker doesn't emit a beep or anything. All I hear is everything whirring up. The graphics card refuses to display anything, and my USB keyboard/mouse don't come on or anything. I tried a PS/2 keyboard, and it did a temporary light up at the beginning of boot, but that was it. My monitor pretends it's asleep every time.

The only thing that I don't actually have at the moment is the DVD drive. Well, I have the drive, but the SATA cable didn't come with it. I'm picking one up tomorrow, but was trying to get it working for now so I can at least do some basic stuff. I went through the trouble of removing my IDE DVD drive and putting it in (along with a ribbon cable and all that) but it seems to not even be plugged in at all. The SATA drive, which is only powered, will eject and lights up and all, but the IDE drive does nothing. I know it works, though, because I put it back in this computer and it still works like a charm.

Also, for the record, I can't swap any of the parts out to see if one singular one is broken, because none of the computers in my house share similar sockets. Everything else I own is IDE, socket 474, AGP, etc... I've also tried putting the graphics card in the other PCI-E port, and switching wires and such around. Nothing seems to work, though.
12 volt connection?
 

Fredescu

Member
Corky said:
I haven't had a ati gpu in ages, but do you even use d3doverrider with ati cards? Anyways, thanks in advance.
It should work. Are you turning off vsync in game when running d3doverrider?
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
Fredescu said:
It should work. Are you turning off vsync in game when running d3doverrider?

yeah v-sync is off, I'm thinking about which other game I could try to see if it still has any issues.
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
Corky said:
yeah v-sync is off, I'm thinking about which other game I could try to see if it still has any issues.

Just tried mafia 2, a game that tears out the ass, and d3d worked flawlessly with virtually no fpshit/inputlag.

SF4 really has me confounded...
 

Ploid 3.0

Member
gregor7777 said:
Good quality illuminated keyboard under $40; Does one exist?

I'm surprised how hard it is to find illuminated keyboards. Especially wireless with the option to turn off the light if you want to save power. I'm just getting into mouse keyboard gaming and some games have buttons on L K and such while you're using mouse. I end up taking stabs in the dark. Even H in Mass Effect, since I'm on wasd I keep hitting G.
 

comrade

Member
Jaxter09 said:
Is 4.7ghz (2500k) with 73c max temp a good place to stop OCing?
Yeah, you're getting a little warm. Personally I'd try for 4.8 and if the heat/voltage wasn't worth it settle for 4.5 and better temps.
 

Le-mo

Member
Le-mo said:
Fellows a quick question. My friend has an Intel DX48BT2 mobo and he wants to buy a wireless network card, but he doesn't know which one is compatible with his board and I don't know either. Could you guys recommend one?
Anyone?
 

clav

Member
Azwethinkweiz said:
Just get a wireless USB stick.
Those sticks tend to burn out if used much. I wouldn't recommend it.

Le-mo said:

I just took a look at the board. You'll need one that uses the classic PCI slot, not PCI-e x1. You can't use those slots as they are dedicated to your graphics cards (they run on PCI-e x16), and I think all boards will power down to the lowest denominator (from X16 to X1) if you stick a wireless pci-e X1 card there.

What kind of wireless setup does he have? Also, does he have space in there to fit a card as in does he have some sort of Quad SLI setup? Can you take a picture?
 

Dosia

Member
So how does a student go about getting a hard copy of windows 7? I called the university book store and they said it is 90 bucks not 30.
 

clav

Member
Dosia said:
So how does a student go about getting a hard copy of windows 7? I called the university book store and they said it is 90 bucks not 30.
http://www.microsoft.com/student/en/us/windows/buynow/default.aspx

Ploid 3.0 said:
I'm surprised how hard it is to find illuminated keyboards. Especially wireless with the option to turn off the light if you want to save power. I'm just getting into mouse keyboard gaming and some games have buttons on L K and such while you're using mouse. I end up taking stabs in the dark. Even H in Mass Effect, since I'm on wasd I keep hitting G.

Wireless illuminated keyboards? :lol

The batteries would run out on that kind of keyboard quickly.
 

Le-mo

Member
claviertekky said:
Those sticks tend to burn out if used much. I wouldn't recommend it.



I just took a look at the board. You'll need one that uses the classic PCI slot, not PCI-e x1. You can't use those slots as they are dedicated to your graphics cards (they run on PCI-e x16), and I think all boards will power down to the lowest denominator (from X16 to X1) if you stick a wireless pci-e X1 card there.

What kind of wireless setup does he have? Also, does he have space in there to fit a card as in does he have some sort of Quad SLI setup? Can you take a picture?
He told me he doesn't have any kind of wireless setup. We took some pictures but it's on my other friend's phone. Let me google a picture.
intel_moboteaser.jpg

He has space on one of the top blue slot and gray slot.
 

clav

Member
Le-mo said:
He told me he doesn't have any kind of wireless setup. We took some pictures but it's on my other friend's phone. Let me google a picture.
intel_moboteaser.jpg

He has space on one of the top blue slot and gray slot.
Can you circle which ones out, so everyone can understand what you mean?

Which slots are filled?
 

clav

Member
Dosia said:
Is that for a hard copy? It looks like a digital download.
Ah. Yeah it's a digital download. You'll make your own hard copy as you need a blank DVD or thumb drive to do the installation.

Alternatively, for the same digital download, if you're currently taking a Computer Science course or in an engineering program, your school will usually have access to MSDNAA, which provides two digital copies for free.
 

Dosia

Member
This is for a new build so I just dl it and burn it to a dvd? Im going to do the upgrade trick so I can save myself 70 bucks
 

clav

Member
Dosia said:
This is for a new build so I just dl it and burn it to a dvd? Im going to do the upgrade trick so I can save myself 70 bucks
Yes although the Digital River distro is a bit tricky as it just gives you files. You'll need to build the ISO.

Some good directions here: http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=11194&

Imgburn is free.

Note: The guy refers his drive as T:. Please do not confuse the drive letter with your own which is probably C:.

Le-mo said:
intel_moboteaser.jpg

The circled ones are available for use.


You're positive there is space there on the grey one? I don't want to recommend something and only to later find out that the card won't fit.

Your friend runs a SLI setup since you said the black and blue PCI-E X16 slots are currently used?
 

Le-mo

Member
claviertekky said:
Yes although the Digital River distro is a bit tricky as it just gives you files. You'll need to build the ISO.

Some good directions here: http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=11194&

Imgburn is free.

Note: The guy refers his drive as T:. Please do not confuse the drive letter with your own which is probably C:.




You're positive there is space there on the grey one? I don't want to recommend something and only to later find out that the card won't fit.

Your friend runs a SLI setup since you said the black and blue PCI-E X16 slots are currently used?
I just called him to make sure and he said the black slot, one grey slot, and one blue slot is available for use. New pic.
DSCF6366-copy-big.jpg

Circled ones are available for use.
 

clav

Member
Le-mo said:
I just called him to make sure and he said the black slot, one grey slot, and one blue slot is available for use. New pic.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk317/Luckyly90/DSCF6366-copy-big.jpg
Circled ones are available for use.
Your friend doesn't have a wireless setup right now as in he hasn't purchased a wireless router yet? Let me know what's going on here. I would strongly recommend to do some research in picking out a router as some routers really suck or ask us here. Give a budget and what your needs are.

Now, I don't know if your friend is planning on going with a wireless N setup. If he does, I strongly suggest he gets a dual-band one so that devices that require wireless N speeds will use the 5 GHz spectrum, and other devices can use the congested 2.4 GHz one (interfered by cell phones, microwaves, cordless phones, bluetooth devices). It will cost more, but if his connection speed and usage (file transferring, stream Windows Media Center) requires it, he needs wireless N via 5 GHz. Otherwise, if he doesn't care and doesn't do bandwidth intensive things, then wireless G/N via 2.4 GHz is OK.

As for the card, I'm going to go the safe route and recommend a standard PCI card. I read through the manual, and all I learned is that black slot is a PCI-Express 1.1 (x16) slot and the blue ones are PCI-Express 2.0 (x16) slots. Supposedly, the graphics card, the one you circled, should be on the top blue slot, and then a secondary one can be put in the second blue slot. (I don't know why your friend has it the other way around.) Your friend can theoretically can use a PCI-E wireless card, but in the past, I've only recommended to those with boards that specifically have x1 slots. Not sure if the motherboard will get confused if there are devices plugged in the x16 slots. The manual says nothing about what will happen if you plug a x1 card in the black x16 slot. I know some boards out there downgrade to x1 including the graphics cards.

So if your friend plans to stick to the 2.4 GHz spectrum:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833166038
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833340013

These should be fine.

If your friend is using the 5.0 GHz spectrum:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124342

He should get this one.

I need more details what your friend is doing.
 

Le-mo

Member
claviertekky said:
Your friend doesn't have a wireless setup right now as in he hasn't purchased a wireless router yet? Let me know what's going on here. I would strongly recommend to do some research in picking out a router as some routers really suck or ask us here. Give a budget and what your needs are.

Now, I don't know if your friend is planning on going with a wireless N setup. If he does, I strongly suggest he gets a dual-band one so that devices that require wireless N speeds will use the 5 GHz spectrum, and other devices can use the congested 2.4 GHz one (interfered by cell phones, microwaves, cordless phones, bluetooth devices). It will cost more, but if his connection speed and usage (file transferring, stream Windows Media Center) requires it, he needs wireless N via 5 GHz. Otherwise, if he doesn't care and doesn't do bandwidth intensive things, then wireless G/N via 2.4 GHz is OK.

As for the card, I'm going to go the safe route and recommend a standard PCI card. I read through the manual, and all I learned is that black slot is a PCI-Express 1.1 (x16) slot and the blue ones are PCI-Express 2.0 (x16) slots. Supposedly, the graphics card, the one you circled, should be on the top blue slot, and then a secondary one can be put in the second blue slot. (I don't know why your friend has it the other way around.) Your friend can theoretically can use a PCI-E wireless card, but in the past, I've only recommended to those with boards that specifically have x1 slots. Not sure if the motherboard will get confused if there are devices plugged in the x16 slots. The manual says nothing about what will happen if you plug a x1 card in the black x16 slot. I know some boards out there downgrade to x1 including the graphics cards.

So if your friend plans to stick to the 2.4 GHz spectrum:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833166038
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833340013

These should be fine.

If your friend is using the 5.0 GHz spectrum:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124342

He should get this one.

I need more details what your friend is doing.
He moved to a new place last week so he is sharing connection with the resident above him who has a wireless setup. The cards that you suggested doesn't look like it would fit into any of the slots. I bought a similar one for him cause I thought it was the right one, but it didn't fit into any of his available slots. Here is the link to it. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00030DEQE
 

clav

Member
Le-mo said:
He moved to a new place last week so he is sharing connection with the resident above him who has a wireless setup. The cards that you suggested doesn't look like it would fit into any of the slots. I bought a similar one for him cause I thought it was the right one, but it didn't fit into any of his available slots. Here is the link to it. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00030DEQE
That should definitely fit in the grey (white) ones. It didn't fit? Sometimes they do require some force to push down.

Was there something blocking it?

From the design of the mobo, looks like you could be jamming some wires in between if you're not careful installing a card in the PCI slot.
 

scogoth

Member
TheExodu5 said:
NewEgg is becoming the best place to buy hardware in Canada now. Prices are cheaper (or at least on par) than in the US. :)

NCIX has free pickup for Vancouver and Toronto. I hate paying shipping. Besides NCIX has price matching.
 
gregor7777 said:

That's the one. I actually ordered another one several days ago. My son spilled his drink all over my older one, so I'm using a POS logitech multimedia keyboard until it gets here. I believe this is my 4th one so far, I've been using them since they first were released. Originally they were the Saitek Eclipse and came with a addon keypad that connected to the keyboard.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007TJ7TE/?tag=neogaf0e-20
 
After being stuck with laptop gaming for the past several years (portability was a necessity), I was looking forward to building my own rig from scratch. However, a friend provided a heavily discounted pre-built PC, so I ended up going with that option instead. The specs are as follows:

Case: Cooler Master CM 690 II Advanced
Mobo: Asus P8P67-M
CPU: Intel Core i7-2600K
GPU: AMD Radeon HD 6870 1 GB
RAM: 8 GB DDR3, brand unknown
HD: 1 TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0 Gb/s, brand unknown
PSU: 700 W, brand unknown

I'm planning on doing some moderate overclocking. Is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus sufficient, or should I invest in a better CPU cooler? Do aftermarket coolers for other components have any significant merit? I suppose GPU coolers might for certain cards, but memory cooling and HD cooling largely sound like upsold nonsense. So far, case airflow is good and the stock fans are doing just fine.

Also, does that generic PSU need to be replaced? It's rated for 700 W, and my current setup requires less than 500 W. If it needs to be replaced, I might upgrade to a Corsair CMPSU-850TX (or similar alternative) and run two CrossFired 6870s. I'll probably get an SSD in the future, but I'm not interested right now.

Are there any other immediate upgrades I should consider?
 
I just reinstalled W7, installed the AMD drivers, rebooted and when it gets back to Windows it just sits on the wallpaper with none of the desktop or UI loading. If I do ctrl, alt + dlt it just goes to a black screen and stays there.

I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling, but no luck.

Any ideas?
 
Nex Superne said:
After being stuck with laptop gaming for the past several years (portability was a necessity), I was looking forward to building my own rig from scratch. However, a friend provided a heavily discounted pre-built PC, so I ended up going with that option instead. The specs are as follows:

Case: Cooler Master CM 690 II Advanced
Mobo: Asus P8P67-M
CPU: Intel Core i7-2600K
GPU: AMD Radeon HD 6870 1 GB
RAM: 8 GB DDR3, brand unknown
HD: 1 TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0 Gb/s, brand unknown
PSU: 700 W, brand unknown

I'm planning on doing some moderate overclocking. Is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus sufficient, or should I invest in a better CPU cooler? Do aftermarket coolers for other components have any significant merit? I suppose GPU coolers might for certain cards, but memory cooling and HD cooling largely sound like upsold nonsense. So far, case airflow is good and the stock fans are doing just fine.

Also, does that generic PSU need to be replaced? It's rated for 700 W, and my current setup requires less than 500 W. If it needs to be replaced, I might upgrade to a Corsair CMPSU-850TX (or similar alternative) and run two CrossFired 6870s. I'll probably get an SSD in the future, but I'm not interested right now.

Are there any other immediate upgrades I should consider?
Open up the case to determine which PSU you have. As long as it's a decent one, I wouldn't replace it as you have enough room to run an OC quad and two 6870s. Download Speccy and/or CPU-Z to get the manufacturer and model info for your ram. Though in most cases, you can see that while looking at them.

Your motherboard can overclock, but it may be the biggest a drawback in your system. I'd consider replacing it with a better model, and selling the current one to partially offset the cost. s1155 still doesn't have that great a range of quality mATX options, so I wouldn't unnecessarily limit myself when the 690 II has plentiful room for an ATX model with better features.

At 32nm, and in a case with good airflow, the 2600K really doesn't need much more than a Hyper 212+ outside of the biggest overclocks, or if you are 100% adamant about getting the absolutely lowest temps.
 

Tain

Member
So I'm looking to build a PC at the $1500 range. I'm feeling like I want to get a 580 (I absolutely need single GPU) and Sandy Bridge. Should I be waiting for Bulldozer? Hell, when is that? On a side note, I haven't had the best history with AMD processors, so my gut is telling me to just build now.

Also, what's the way to go with RAM? 6 gigs triple channel? 8 gigs dual channel?

Any answers or suggested builds would be super appreciated.
 

Tain

Member
Should probably have mentioned that I don't need a monitor. I'm keeping my current setup (C2D + 4850) for use as an ugly HTPC, and I'm pretty happy with my monitor at the moment.
 

Alucrid

Banned
Intel Core i3-2310M Processor (2.1GHz, 3MB L3, 1333MHz FSB)

Intel Core i5-2410M Processor (2.3GHz, 3MB L3, 1333MHz FSB)

Is the difference worth $100?
 

clav

Member
Alucrid said:
Intel Core i3-2310M Processor (2.1GHz, 3MB L3, 1333MHz FSB)

Intel Core i5-2410M Processor (2.3GHz, 3MB L3, 1333MHz FSB)

Is the difference worth $100?
What do you plan on doing with it?
 

ithorien

Member
Keikaku said:
I just my SSD in the mail and it's really small. Guys, it's really, really, really small.

That's pretty much it :D

When you get your first 2.5 drive, you don't realize how much smaller it'll actually be. After all, it's just one inch right? It was such a shock when I got my PS3 HDD replacement back in 2006 after 10 years of working with 3.5 and only that.
 

Tain

Member
Anything glaringly wrong with this? Only thing I'm keeping from the old PC is the optical drive. I'm pretty pumped with the sound of it:

COOLER MASTER Storm Scout SGC-2000-KKN1-GP Black Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
$89.99

Western Digital Caviar Black WD1001FALS 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
$89.99

ASUS ENGTX580 DCII/2DIS/1536MD5 GeForce GTX 580 (Fermi) 1536MB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video ...
$499.99

CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC High Performance Power ...
$104.99

CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B
$94.99

ASUS P8P67 PRO (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
$179.99

Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600K
$314.99

SAMSUNG 470 Series MZ-5PA128/US 2.5" 128GB SATA II Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
$219.99

Total: $1,594.92
 

Alucrid

Banned
claviertekky said:
What do you plan on doing with it?

Web, class work (word/excel). That's really about it. I do plan on using rainmeter though for a nice desktop. Nothing to strenuous on it though. Also, is a SSD worth it for a netbook? I mean, the more I think about it the less it does. I dunno, that would save me ~300-400 bucks though.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom