"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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I am so frustrated gaf. My new motherboard came today but wouldn't turn on because my RAM was incompatible. The board was recommended by a gaffer when I posted I was looking for a new board a few months back. Guess I will have to start looking for new rams.
 
Le-mo said:
I am so frustrated gaf. My new motherboard came today but wouldn't turn on because my RAM was incompatible. The board was recommended by a gaffer when I posted I was looking for a new board a few months back. Guess I will have to start looking for new rams.
Click to expand...
There are very rare instances of that. Did you try with just 1 stick?
OR are you talking about DDR2/DDR3
 
Hazaro said:
Unplug and replug all connectors in. Check for loose screw behind mobo. Are you using the standoffs?
Run memtest 86+
Was it always this way?
Click to expand...

I ran the memory test. All good there.

...I don't know what standoffs are. I'm guessing this is probably important to know. Are they the gold things that have a male thread on one end and a female end on the other end?
 
WanderingWind said:
I ran the memory test. All good there.

...I don't know what standoffs are. I'm guessing this is probably important to know. Are they the gold things that have a male thread on one end and a female end on the other end?
Click to expand...
Yes. They go between the mobo and case.
You can memtest from CD for at least 15 minutes?
 
Hazaro said:
There are very rare instances of that. Did you try with just 1 stick?
OR are you talking about DDR2/DDR3
Click to expand...
Yah, I tried it with one stick and the ram is DDR3. I am pretty sure the cause of the problem was the ram because it wasn't on the list of compatible RAM in the motherboard manual. I am back to using my old board at the moment.
 
Hazaro said:
Yes. They go between the mobo and case.
You can memtest from CD for at least 15 minutes?
Click to expand...

Yes. So, I need to put the standoffs in. Wish there was an instruction manual that had that. What do they do and how is that causing my issues?

Thanks for responding by the way. It's incredibly nice of you.
 
IT'S ALIVEEEEEE!!!!!!!!! All because of those spacer thingies! Thanks Hazaro!

its-alive.jpg
 
My 4 year old MacBook just kicked the bucket so I'm trying to price out a good gaming PC. I'm stuck on an iPad right now so I'll post the full build later but I'm just trying to figure out a good monitor. I want one that'll have a good PQ and maintain it's resolution in motion well. Also, I've only had horrible experiences with Samsung so I'd rather not get one of those if avoidable. I'm looking for 1080p at between 20-24inches and probably under $300 or so. Any recommendations?


EDIT: I'd also like to get some solid surround sound headphones too.
 
How dated is my i7-920 chip I got in late 2007?

I'm considering an upgrade to my aging PSU and vidcard, but am unsure if my Processor is still viable(being among the very first wave of i7 chips to market). I notice the i7 family is still kicking, but I have no idea what sort of generational leaps this family has made over the years since mine launched.
 
Le-mo said:
Yah, I tried it with one stick and the ram is DDR3. I am pretty sure the cause of the problem was the ram because it wasn't on the list of compatible RAM in the motherboard manual. I am back to using my old board at the moment.
Click to expand...
That is rarely the case. There are hundreds of sticks and just because it is not listed does not mean that it will not work.

Reassemble the build outside of your case using 1 stick, no dvd drive, minimum connections.

Maybe you are using 1.5V RAM on a 1.65V board? Maybe you have ECO RAM that is at 1.3V?

Did you read your motherboard manual to double check which slot to use? That slot could be bad as well.
Brandon F said:
How dated is my i7-920 chip I got in late 2007?

I'm considering an upgrade to my aging PSU and vidcard, but am unsure if my Processor is still viable(being among the very first wave of i7 chips to market). I notice the i7 family is still kicking, but I have no idea what sort of generational leaps this family has made over the years since mine launched.
Click to expand...
Still quite a good chip. Just give it a nice overclock. Your PSU might still be fine as well.
RoboPlato said:
My 4 year old MacBook just kicked the bucket so I'm trying to price out a good gaming PC. I'm stuck on an iPad right now so I'll post the full build later but I'm just trying to figure out a good monitor. I want one that'll have a good PQ and maintain it's resolution in motion well. Also, I've only had horrible experiences with Samsung so I'd rather not get one of those if avoidable. I'm looking for 1080p at between 20-24inches and probably under $300 or so. Any recommendations?
Click to expand...
I'm no monitor buff, so I just look on newegg at the current deals.
There was a Hanns-G 23" 1080p for $120 last I checked.

But if your price range is larger you can either get a IPS panel (better colors, slower response), or a 120Hz TN panel.
WanderingWind said:
Yes. So, I need to put the standoffs in. Wish there was an instruction manual that had that. What do they do and how is that causing my issues?

Thanks for responding by the way. It's incredibly nice of you.
Click to expand...
They can cause certain parts of the board to short in places they shouldn't. Common mistake, along with having a screw behind the mobo doing the same thing.
 
Brandon F said:
How dated is my i7-920 chip I got in late 2007?

I'm considering an upgrade to my aging PSU and vidcard, but am unsure if my Processor is still viable(being among the very first wave of i7 chips to market). I notice the i7 family is still kicking, but I have no idea what sort of generational leaps this family has made over the years since mine launched.
Click to expand...

You'll be good with that chip for awhile brah.
 
Brandon F said:
How dated is my i7-920 chip I got in late 2007?

I'm considering an upgrade to my aging PSU and vidcard, but am unsure if my Processor is still viable(being among the very first wave of i7 chips to market). I notice the i7 family is still kicking, but I have no idea what sort of generational leaps this family has made over the years since mine launched.
Click to expand...
It's a good chip. I'd keep it for now.

But, I assume you mean late 08? Unless you are a time traveler. :P
 
Hazaro said:
Still quite a good chip. Just give it a nice overclock. Your PSU might still be fine as well.
Click to expand...

Ok cool to hear. I think my PSU is 500 watts. I keep reading that it is borderline when it comes to more modern cards like the 6000 Radeon series or whatever Nvidia has going(currently using a Radeon HD 4890 1gb). I'm just not sure that if I do upgrade, if the 500watt will be capable enough to handle.

Also, any good guides for overclocking my CPU? I've never done something like that.


opticalmace said:
It's a good chip. I'd keep it for now.

But, I assume you mean late 08? Unless you are a time traveler. :P
Click to expand...

Haha, was it '08? It feels like a longer amount of time.
 
Okay, next step is updating everything. I backed up all the stuff I cared about, but I forgot the drivers for stuff. How do I find drivers for

-Ethernet Controller
-PCI Simple Communications Controller
-SM Bus Controller
-USB x 2 Controller


And how the hell do I find out what "unknown device" is? Everything seems to be working except the USB ports, so I'm totally confused by that one. Maybe the USB 3.0 ports?
 
WanderingWind said:
Okay, next step is updating everything. I backed up all the stuff I cared about, but I forgot the drivers for stuff. How do I find drivers for

-Ethernet Controller
-PCI Simple Communications Controller
-SM Bus Controller
-USB x 2 Controller


And how the hell do I find out what "unknown device" is? Everything seems to be working except the USB ports, so I'm totally confused by that one. Maybe the USB 3.0 ports?
Click to expand...
My motherboard came with a disc with all those drivers.
 
Brandon F said:
Ok cool to hear. I think my PSU is 500 watts. I keep reading that it is borderline when it comes to more modern cards like the 6000 Radeon series or whatever Nvidia has going(currently using a Radeon HD 4890 1gb). I'm just not sure that if I do upgrade, if the 500watt will be capable enough to handle.

Also, any good guides for overclocking my CPU? I've never done something like that.




Haha, was it '08? It feels like a longer amount of time.
Click to expand...
Yeah, always goes that way. Was released Q4 '08.

http://ark.intel.com/Product.aspx?id=37147
 
RoboPlato said:
Would I be able to connect my PS3 to it through VGA or some sort of adapter?
Click to expand...
Yep. Not the VGA port, but you should be able to get a HDMI to DVI or HDMI to DP convertor and run it through one of those. I'm not sure how audio will work though.
 
Man, looking through all this has been kind of overwhelming for me since I used to be really up on PC parts but I've been out of the loop for a few years now. Am I correct in assuming that an i5 2500k/shader unlocked 6950/8gb DDR3 will be future proof for while at 1080p? Also, I hate load times but SSDs are a bit out of my price range, especially for their size. Would a 7200rpm drive be a good alternative? Also, any good surround sound headphones? trying to go through reviews, FAQs, etc has been rough on this iPad so I appreciate all of the advice GAF.
 
Howdy, Master Race.
Ok so check it out!

I have a Fujitsu Lifebook S series from about 10 years ago.

Bz5hI.jpg


It will not turn out.

When it is plugged in the led indicator recognizes the power source and tells me it is charging the battery. So far I have tried to turn it on plugged in, with just the battery, plugged in without the battery, and I've tried those three with and without the expressport devices installed.


Also, on someone from here's advice I've pulled the batter, unplugged it and held down the power button for 5 seconds, then plugged it back in and retried. No dice.


what else should I try to get this thing up and running?
 
Just let it go. It's time.

If it's not turning on, then something's wrong with the hardware. And it is not worth putting any money into something that's 10 year's old.
 
Jtwo said:
what else should I try to get this thing up and running?
Click to expand...
If there are any other removable parts, like drives, try running without those. If you have access to the memory bay, maybe see if you can reseat the RAM.
 
TheExodu5 said:
Just let it go. It's time.

If it's not turning on, then something's wrong with the hardware. And it is not worth putting any money into something that's 10 year's old.
Click to expand...
I need it for a project though. I would never actually try to use this laptop for real things. Thats why it's really important it gets up and running.
 
I'm having an odd problem with my computer. Aside from the horrible stuttering whenever I play games, I recently found out that I can't format my hard drive and reinstall Windows. Whether I use a Windows XP or Windows 7 OS CD, my computer crashes just after loading installation files. When I use the XP disc, I get this error message: "The file QL1240.SYS is corrupted." I put memtest through 4 passes, and no RAM errors were found. The Hitachi HDD Fitness Test also found no errors on my hard drive. I tried two power supplies, but neither have allowed me to reinstall Windows, and neither have fixed the stuttering. I've also tried using a graphics card as well as my computer's internal graphics. I have no idea how to fix these technical issues so I have a couple questions.
For one, are there any decent, cheap multimeters or power supply testers that you would recommend?
Also, do you think it's likely that both of the power supplies have been damaged in precisely the same way, causing the same symptoms? If not, then what else should I look into fixing? If so, how could I prevent this from happening in the future? I've always used a surge protector for my computer, but maybe the outlet is providing unstable electricity? I don't know. *sigh*
 
OH FUX. Sorry, only bragging I'll do. But it took me 8 1/2 hours to back up my Steamapps folder. With my new, USB 3.0 awesomeness, it's taking 2 hours.

...I think I'm in love.
 
Starting to OC my ASUS DirectCUII 580.

I'm at 1.1v , 925mhz, and 4274mhz (memory). After running the Kombuster MSI test right now it was idiling at 48 C and now is down to 40 C. During the test it maxed at 67 C. Kind of want to push it further lol...although I think that's a pretty solid OC right there.
 
Smokey said:
Starting to OC my ASUS DirectCUII 580.

I'm at 1.1v , 925mhz, and 4274mhz (memory). After running the Kombuster MSI test right now it was idiling at 48 C and now is down to 40 C. During the test it maxed at 67 C. Kind of want to push it further lol...although I think that's a pretty solid OC right there.
Click to expand...
Nice overclock and load temps!
 
celcius said:
Nice overclock and load temps!
Click to expand...

Well Crysis 2 was interrupted by the ASUS SmartDoctor app flashing red that my GPU was reaching some sort of limit. Looks like it reset to factory default.
So I lowered it to 1.088v, 901mhz, 4138mhz on memory and it seems stable here.
 
So I just ordered my first SSD. I went with the Intel 320 series 120 GB model. It was 10 bucks cheaper on Newegg (tax free/shipping free!) than it was on Amazon, and I also got a free copy of Assassin's Creed Brotherhood. I've never played an AC game so I look forward to that!

Can't wait to have this bad boy show up on my doorstep and bust that bitch in. Do you guys suggest doing the file transfer thing or starting over fresh? I am leaning towards just a complete wipe of my current HDD since it has been quite a while and starting brand new.
 
A new motherboard (different brand) would require a W7 reinstall right? But just dropping in a new CPU wouldn't? Also, what is the sweet spot when it comes to AM2 price/performance? Brother was going to build a Sandy Bridge system, but the cost of a new mobo/cpu/ram was going to be a bit much. I got a throw away mobo from work that will do great, just need to slot in a PhenomX4 and maybe 4GB more ram to make the system last another year+

edit: Hmmn, guess there are a bunch of different sockets for the past few years of AMD. Motherboard is ASUS M2N-E, it would be able to support a PhenomII X4 965 right?
 
Paches-EJ- said:
So I just ordered my first SSD. I went with the Intel 320 series 120 GB model. It was 10 bucks cheaper on Newegg (tax free/shipping free!) than it was on Amazon, and I also got a free copy of Assassin's Creed Brotherhood. I've never played an AC game so I look forward to that!
Click to expand...
Lol, I just bought mine from newegg last week and got no game with it. Oh well
 
Hazaro said:
That is rarely the case. There are hundreds of sticks and just because it is not listed does not mean that it will not work.

Reassemble the build outside of your case using 1 stick, no dvd drive, minimum connections.

Maybe you are using 1.5V RAM on a 1.65V board? Maybe you have ECO RAM that is at 1.3V?

Did you read your motherboard manual to double check which slot to use? That slot could be bad as well.
Click to expand...
So if I try it again and it still doesn't turn on then that means I have a bad motherboard? I must have really bad luck when purchasing computer parts then. I don't know what V Ram or Eco ram is but this is what I have.

Current ram
Product.aspx


New motherboard
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ICWAUU
 
Le-mo said:
So if I try it again and it still doesn't turn on then that means I have a bad motherboard? I must have really bad luck when purchasing computer parts then. I don't know what V Ram or Eco ram is but this is what I have.

Current ram
Product.aspx


New motherboard
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ICWAUU
Click to expand...
Compatibility for 1.65V DDR3 + that mobo is fine.

Some OCZ sticks are a crap shoot, but it should at least POST with an error.
With no RAM it should just beep at you.

If you cant even get a beep (make sure speaker is in) or power on it's PSU or mobo.
Check PSU by doing the paperclip trick.
 
Hazaro said:
Compatibility for 1.65V DDR3 + that mobo is fine.

Some OCZ sticks are a crap shoot, but it should at least POST with an error.
With no RAM it should just beep at you.

If you cant even get a beep (make sure speaker is in) or power on it's PSU or mobo.
Check PSU by doing the paperclip trick.
Click to expand...
It shouldn't be my PSU because it works fine on my old mobo. I will try it again now and see what happens.
 
ColonelColon said:
I'm having an odd problem with my computer. Aside from the horrible stuttering whenever I play games, I recently found out that I can't format my hard drive and reinstall Windows. Whether I use a Windows XP or Windows 7 OS CD, my computer crashes just after loading installation files. When I use the XP disc, I get this error message: "The file QL1240.SYS is corrupted." I put memtest through 4 passes, and no RAM errors were found. The Hitachi HDD Fitness Test also found no errors on my hard drive. I tried two power supplies, but neither have allowed me to reinstall Windows, and neither have fixed the stuttering. I've also tried using a graphics card as well as my computer's internal graphics. I have no idea how to fix these technical issues so I have a couple questions.
Click to expand...
That's pretty odd, perhaps it has a corruption bug in the bios? I had an Asrock that did that if the floppy port was enabled, had to keep it disabled until they released a BIOS fix. It was really weird and something I've never run across before or since.

I honestly don't think it'd be the PSUs if they both produce the same error in the same spot.

I'd also be prepared for the possibility that the two problems may NOT be related as a bad HDD won't usually make games stutter, that points to something else like memory or something borked on Windows but not being able to install XP in it's install mode when not in Windows points to a hardware issue for sure, either memory, bad bios or sata port, bad HDD or just bad BIOS settings that are too aggressive.

What are your full system specs, what games stutter and what other issues have you been having?
 
SneakyStephan said:
This picture is exactly what non pc gamers think someone who builds their own pc looks like.
Click to expand...

i better go return my goggles. :( i'm going to be building my first pc soon. i thought it was dress code.
 
Hey guys, I just need to have another voice comfirming this so I don't get too worried with my computer, if you're happy to help :)

I got myself a Asus P8P67-M PRO R3 with this Memory; Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600Mhz CL9 1.5V Non-ECC Unbuffered and they should be fine to work together, yes?

Reason why I am asking is because when I got it all setup, a red light blinks (the middle one out of three small lights?) on the motherboard (where DIM led is, under the Memory OK button) and everyone powers on then shutsdown after a few seconds for the warning. I am thinking if it was my heatsink fan as one of the pins (not CPU, that's installed inside fine) was broke when I pulled it out of the motherboard and currenly waiting for a new one (url=http://www.ebuyer.com/product/244150] This one here[/url] to set back upon.

I just need a double comfirm so I don't go insane to see if once the heatsink fan is installed, and the red light appears again :lol:
 
Looking to spend £1000 on a new system in a month, is anything coming out between now and then? Thinking about a i5 2500k and ati 6950
 
Ok, the motherboard finally turned on, but I still can't install Windows 7. I thought the problem was my old motherboard, but I guess it's something else. Ugh.
 
Le-mo said:
Ok, the motherboard finally turned on, but I still can't install Windows 7. I thought the problem was my old motherboard, but I guess it's something else. Ugh.
Click to expand...
"Can't install Windows" is pretty vague. If you want help you should at least describe what's happening.
 
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