Z
ZombieFred
Unconfirmed Member
Le-mo said:
Could be something that is loose (Memory, Hard drive, power?) or if your memory (or chanel) might be dodgy. Try look into those.
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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Could be something that is loose (Memory, Hard drive, power?) or if your memory (or chanel) might be dodgy. Try look into those.
After the first restart it would freeze at the Window is Starting logo. I installed all the drivers on the CD that came with the motherboard, but it's still asking me to install driver for IDE, primary IDE, Universal USB driver and etc. I will try to do a full install again and see what happens.
Z
ZombieFred
Unconfirmed Member
Le-mo said:
Sounds like an iffy hard drive to me, or bad drivers.
That's... pretty odd... you usually aren't needed to install a driver for ide or usb.
Honestly I would assume one of the drivers on the disc was shit and causing the issue.
For the things that need a driver, like say Sata, video card and sound card I'd get them directly off the internet.
But anyways still not sure where the error is occurring from your description, it sounds like Windows 7 installs, boots and allowed you to install some drivers and then after rebooting from that it no longer boots all the way, is that correct?
Edit: I would install Windows 7, allow it to fully update itself through Windows Update first, THEN after rebooting from all of that I would install any necessary drivers.
Honestly I would assume one of the drivers on the disc was shit and causing the issue.
For the things that need a driver, like say Sata, video card and sound card I'd get them directly off the internet.
But anyways still not sure where the error is occurring from your description, it sounds like Windows 7 installs, boots and allowed you to install some drivers and then after rebooting from that it no longer boots all the way, is that correct?
Edit: I would install Windows 7, allow it to fully update itself through Windows Update first, THEN after rebooting from all of that I would install any necessary drivers.
Ok, this is what it's asking me to install a driver for:
Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
Primary IDE Channel
Secondary IDE Channel
When I tried to resume the installation I got an error message that says Windows 7 failed to install because of a recent hardware of software change.
Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
Primary IDE Channel
Secondary IDE Channel
When I tried to resume the installation I got an error message that says Windows 7 failed to install because of a recent hardware of software change.
Z
ZombieFred
Unconfirmed Member
Have you gone onto the Mobo's website and gone on the model selected and tried downloading the latest drivers supported? It could be that if you was from vista or any OS prior to 7, those drivers on the CD might not be the most up-to-date selection and need the recent version that supports Widnows 7.
Is it asking for this during installation in it's install state? I seriously doubt you actually need a IDE driver, you are using a Sata drive on this PC right? Not an old IDE drive? You most likely have the Sata set as Raid or AHCI and Windows needs that driver to progress, you could set SATA mode to IDE if you wanted and lose hot swapping and possibly some performance but that is the driver you most likely need to install to get it to work.
What is the specs of this computer?
What is the specs of this computer?
I am currently running Windows XP and the message to install the IDE driver pops up everytime I restart or turn on the computer. I am using SATA HDD and DVD Driver. I'll take a look at the manufacturer's website. The motherboard's box says it was Windows 7 ready, whatever that means.
What are the full specs, what is actually in this PC, what model mobo and stuff. XP may need some IDE drivers but 7, I doubt it, are you doing an upgrade from XP to 7?
Is the DVD drive a sata drive or IDE drive? Does the mobo even have a damn IDE connection? Frankly Windows 7 should not need an IDE driver it should be just fine using the Microsoft supplied ones, the only ones it would be lacking would be IDE raid chip drivers but even if your motherboard had an additional IDE controller installed on the board it should not hinder installing Windows 7 from a sata dvd drive to a sata hdd drive.
You're going to need to be more specific about the hardware in your PC and how you're installing Windows as I think the issue is not this IDE driver.
Is the DVD drive a sata drive or IDE drive? Does the mobo even have a damn IDE connection? Frankly Windows 7 should not need an IDE driver it should be just fine using the Microsoft supplied ones, the only ones it would be lacking would be IDE raid chip drivers but even if your motherboard had an additional IDE controller installed on the board it should not hinder installing Windows 7 from a sata dvd drive to a sata hdd drive.
You're going to need to be more specific about the hardware in your PC and how you're installing Windows as I think the issue is not this IDE driver.
The HDD and DVD Drive are SATA and I am trying to upgrade from Windows XP to 7. Here are my specs:mAcOdIn said:
GPU:XFX HD-577X-ZMF3 Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit DDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 CrossFireX Support Video Card with Eyefinity
CPU:AMD Athlon II X4 640 Propus 3.0GHz Socket AM3 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor ADX640WFGMBOX
RAM:OCZ Signature 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model OCZ3SR1333LV4GK
PSU:XFX P1-650X-CAH9 650W ATX12V v2.2 / ESP12V v2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
DVD Drive:Sony Optiarc CD/DVD Burner Black SATA Model AD-7260S-0B - OEM
HDD:SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Motherboard:ASUS M4A87TD EVO - AM3 - AMD 870 - DDR3 - USB3.0 SATA 6 Gb/s - ATX Motherboard
Ok, so I'd disregard the IDE message for now. Anyways, is this XP install activated? Since it sounds like a newly built computer did you just install XP quickly so you could use the upgrade disc immediately afterwards? If that is the case make sure it's activated.
If this was an existing OS install and you did swap out some hardware again make sure it is activated.
After that I would really look at ram timings, is the ram overclocked, do you have it undervolted, are the timings correct? There's a lot of settings there that may be a tad too aggressive and cause issues.
Are you trying to upgrade from within Windows or by booting with the DVD?
If this was an existing OS install and you did swap out some hardware again make sure it is activated.
After that I would really look at ram timings, is the ram overclocked, do you have it undervolted, are the timings correct? There's a lot of settings there that may be a tad too aggressive and cause issues.
Are you trying to upgrade from within Windows or by booting with the DVD?
Le-mo said:
You could try the Asus Navigation Wizard to autodetect your mobo drivers and see if there is any problem..
http://support.asus.com.tw/download/download.aspx?install_nav=1&SLanguage=es-es
YesZombieFred said:Hey guys, I just need to have another voice comfirming this so I don't get too worried with my computer, if you're happy to help
I got myself a Asus P8P67-M PRO R3 with this Memory; Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600Mhz CL9 1.5V Non-ECC Unbuffered and they should be fine to work together, yes?
New CPUs from AMD.f0rk said:
Try this?Le-mo said:
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/help/upgrading-from-windows-xp-to-windows-7?T1=tab01
Honestly I'd just do a clean install on a new drive. Make sure you only have the HDD you want to install 7 hooked up. I hate hate hate HATE reinstalling and I did.
Might want to check for BIOS update as well.
Z
ZombieFred
Unconfirmed Member
Hey Hazaro, thanks for that, it's good to have a double comfirm on this. Hopefully once this heat sink is fitted onto the CPU socket, with it then plugged to my monitor, I should have Bios appear on my display and be able to start my installation on my new machine (and if it doesn't then I know it's got to be my CPU 
).
I've got a 6970 AMD 2 GB GPU. I've been thinking down the line of getting another so it's cross-fired. Is it worth doing for future Direct X11 games if I want to get a good FPS with tensellation?
). I've got a 6970 AMD 2 GB GPU. I've been thinking down the line of getting another so it's cross-fired. Is it worth doing for future Direct X11 games if I want to get a good FPS with tensellation?
divisionbyzorro
Member
Hello PC-GAF!
Consider me something of a newbie, or perhaps an old pro coming out of retirement. The last time I built a PC was 8 years ago right before going to college, and since then I just haven't found the time.
I've been eying a budget build for a couple of months now; I've spent more than a few evenings doing research and putting it together, and I ended up putting together a build for $700, including a copy of Windows 7. But I figured I'd find the PC thread and get someone to check it out and make sure that I wasn't doing anything stupid, at which point I found out that I had built something eerily similar to the $600 build in the OP (some items being exactly the same).
The major difference is my power supply is cheaper, my video card is more expensive (same chipset, more onboard memory), and I hadn't considered picking up a secondary cooler. So what say you - am I putting my money in the right places? I'd appreciate all constructive and destructive feedback you might have for me.
http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=20058627
Consider me something of a newbie, or perhaps an old pro coming out of retirement. The last time I built a PC was 8 years ago right before going to college, and since then I just haven't found the time.
I've been eying a budget build for a couple of months now; I've spent more than a few evenings doing research and putting it together, and I ended up putting together a build for $700, including a copy of Windows 7. But I figured I'd find the PC thread and get someone to check it out and make sure that I wasn't doing anything stupid, at which point I found out that I had built something eerily similar to the $600 build in the OP (some items being exactly the same).
The major difference is my power supply is cheaper, my video card is more expensive (same chipset, more onboard memory), and I hadn't considered picking up a secondary cooler. So what say you - am I putting my money in the right places? I'd appreciate all constructive and destructive feedback you might have for me.
http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=20058627
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
First and foremost, get a better PSU.divisionbyzorro said:Hello PC-GAF!
Consider me something of a newbie, or perhaps an old pro coming out of retirement. The last time I built a PC was 8 years ago right before going to college, and since then I just haven't found the time.
I've been eying a budget build for a couple of months now; I've spent more than a few evenings doing research and putting it together, and I ended up putting together a build for $700, including a copy of Windows 7. But I figured I'd find the PC thread and get someone to check it out and make sure that I wasn't doing anything stupid, at which point I found out that I had built something eerily similar to the $600 build in the OP (some items being exactly the same).
The major difference is my power supply is cheaper, my video card is more expensive (same chipset, more onboard memory), and I hadn't considered picking up a secondary cooler. So what say you - am I putting my money in the right places? I'd appreciate all constructive and destructive feedback you might have for me.
http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=20058627
With that out of the way, you should be able to save yourself some money and get better components. Start out by cutting Windows if at all possible. If you know somebody attending college you can get a discount with their help. There are some other ways to get Windows cheaper, somebody else could probably chime in and help more in that regard.
I was going to offer some suggestions for combos and stuff, but I ended up just putting this together.
http://i.imgur.com/JZJHR.png
If you hold off on some random part (I'd say the wireless adapter) for four days you can use the coupon that comes with your CPU to save another $10, and that would put the hardware right under $600 after rebate. That excludes Windows, in hopes you could get a student discount or something similar.
Also not sure about the wireless adapter, but I wouldn't know what else to recommend. Edit: And with that case, you shouldn't need any extra fans.
Combo 1: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.638507
Combo 2: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.642008
Everything else: http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=23571068
Celcius
°Temp. member
Sorry, I meant to say that you'll still get your game, I just barely missed out on the deal.Paches-EJ- said:Way to bring me down...
Last week I bought my ssd for $240, then yesterday after talking to you I check newegg and see that they are selling the exact same drive for $225 with free shipping and a free $40 game. This morning I chatted with a newegg agent and even though they couldn't give me the free game, they are giving me a $25 refund to make up for it. That's what I call customer service!
Jtwo said:
If it's not turning on chances are something is broken or corroded inside. Time to dismantle the laptop and take a good look inside if something seems out of place. I have an old laptop that will charge the battery, recognize it when it's in but will not take power from the battery so it only works when plugged in. I've tested it with several batteries so I know it's the laptop so I ended up dismantling the entire thing but couldn't find the problem. Still was pretty neat to see it all apart. I ended up reapplying the thermal paste, cleaning out the dust and put it back together. Only ended up with one extra screw at the end but it works when plugged in like it did before.
divisionbyzorro
Member
chaosblade said:
Just parsed through what you did there. Seems you found mostly similar components in combo deals with enough mail-in rebates to finance a better PSU and case within my budget. Pretty clever; thanks for the help.
Anyone out there have any suggestions for getting Windows cheaper?
My case finally came in last night and, after putting everything together ... fails to boot. Black screen after it posts.
And now I'm stuck at work and can't tinker with it to try to get it to work. This is going to nag me all day, I know it. Maybe I'll leave at lunch to try some things ...
And now I'm stuck at work and can't tinker with it to try to get it to work. This is going to nag me all day, I know it. Maybe I'll leave at lunch to try some things ...
divisionbyzorro said:
Find someone willing to have you use their school email.
http://www.microsoft.com/student/en/us/software/windows/default.aspx
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
I was just thinking it might be a dead cmos battery? It is pretty damn old.Shambles said:
Man, to save teh screws, you gotta organize a bunch of beer bottle caps and put the scews in there, thats what i do when i have to repair my mbp.
So I made a bit of a mention last page, but I'm seriously considering upgrading my GPU to a DX11 supported card.
My current PC:
-i7-920(vanilla speeds/unclock'd)
-500 watt PSU - Is this going to be a problem?
-Radeon HD 4890 1gb - Dunno what would be a good DX11 upgrade for around $250-$300
-9GB DDR3 RAM
It's a solid machine that is 2.5yrs old, but with the Radeon generation in the 6XXX now, I feel a bit of an upgrade is in order? Again, I am thinking of spending ~$250/300 at most. No $700 craziness. I'm fine with either Nvidia or Radeon. AMD has rarely been a problem for me with driver support, but my loyalty is to my games and what is most appropriate to run them. Is any of the current cards in that price range even a worthwhile step-up from the 4890?
Also the 500 watt PSU. Is it too close for comfort for a modern card?
My current PC:
-i7-920(vanilla speeds/unclock'd)
-500 watt PSU - Is this going to be a problem?
-Radeon HD 4890 1gb - Dunno what would be a good DX11 upgrade for around $250-$300
-9GB DDR3 RAM
It's a solid machine that is 2.5yrs old, but with the Radeon generation in the 6XXX now, I feel a bit of an upgrade is in order? Again, I am thinking of spending ~$250/300 at most. No $700 craziness. I'm fine with either Nvidia or Radeon. AMD has rarely been a problem for me with driver support, but my loyalty is to my games and what is most appropriate to run them. Is any of the current cards in that price range even a worthwhile step-up from the 4890?
Also the 500 watt PSU. Is it too close for comfort for a modern card?
Master Milk
Member
Hey guys. I'm completely new to this, but I've heard that building a PC isn't that hard, it just takes a little effort, so I'm thinking I'll give it a try. I filled out the form, but I wouldn't even know where to start with a build, so I didn't bother for now. I decided to post this so that I can commit to the idea of thinking about a new comp more seriously, and get some help with that thinking.
Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: As in the comp I use now? It's old, 2005 old. Dunno besides that. It was prebuilt.
Did some digging in the Control Panel, I think I found something.
2 Intel Core 2 CPU 6300@1.86GHz
0.97 GB of RAM
I dunno, I hope this isn't important.
Budget: $600-800, America
Price can be worked around if my goals need it to, as I currently have to save up for this newness regardless.
Main Use: Gaming, Video/Sound Editing, 2D/3D work, general usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback)
I can't imagine sound and 2d being more intensive than the other two, but I added them in just in case. I don't use my PC for games too often, except for small fan made things. Having the option of playing some SF and BB might be nice though, so that's listed just in case it matters.
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1200? My current monitor is just as old as the comp, so I want to upgrade that, too, but I understand that that's different than building a PC, and can ultimately wait until after the PC is built. I want to eventually have a dual monitor set-up, though, if that matters.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: NA
Are reusing any parts?: Nope
When will you build?: Probably around the end of the year.
Will you be overclocking?: No
Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: As in the comp I use now? It's old, 2005 old. Dunno besides that. It was prebuilt.
Did some digging in the Control Panel, I think I found something.
2 Intel Core 2 CPU 6300@1.86GHz
0.97 GB of RAM
I dunno, I hope this isn't important.
Budget: $600-800, America
Price can be worked around if my goals need it to, as I currently have to save up for this newness regardless.
Main Use: Gaming, Video/Sound Editing, 2D/3D work, general usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback)
I can't imagine sound and 2d being more intensive than the other two, but I added them in just in case. I don't use my PC for games too often, except for small fan made things. Having the option of playing some SF and BB might be nice though, so that's listed just in case it matters.
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1200? My current monitor is just as old as the comp, so I want to upgrade that, too, but I understand that that's different than building a PC, and can ultimately wait until after the PC is built. I want to eventually have a dual monitor set-up, though, if that matters.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: NA
Are reusing any parts?: Nope
When will you build?: Probably around the end of the year.
Will you be overclocking?: No
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Master Milk said:
It's not really possible to come up with a build now that will be viable by the end of the year. AMD is launching a whole new CPU lineup next month, and there will probably be some new GPUs available too. So basically the whole market will be different by then and a lot of stuff available now will be discontinued.
For now, taking the build I posted earlier and dropping the wireless adapter, and swapping in a 1155 motherboard and CPU (2500k, although a 2600k would probably be beneficial in your work load it doesn't fit in your budget) would be good. If you need to, you could drop the GPU down a notch to a stock/standard 460 768MB, or even the crappy SE model. You would have to make some sacrifices in the more demanding games but if those games aren't a priority it probably won't bother you. You might also consider another 4GB of RAM, but that will be pushing your budget, especially if you try to work in a 2600k.
Your CPU should last you for a few years at least. Older quad cores are still managing quite well, yours should have plenty left in it, especially if you OC it later.Brandon F said:
500W PSU doesn't mean much on it's own. What kind of PSU is it? A high quality 500W PSU should run any single card on the market, although you could be limited if you overclock.
If you're really feeling limited by your 4890, the 6950 is probably the best bang/buck GPU in your price range. The 2GB model is more futureproof, but the 1GB model performs fine right now in most conditions (no eyefinity or anything planned, right?). If not, the 7000 series cards and NVidia's next series should launch later this year.
Master Milk
Member
chaosblade said:
Really? Haha, wow, okay. I guess I'll drop back in then. Thanks guys.mkenyon said:
Hey guys. Just bought another gtx460 to SLI in my system and I have a question about hooking up my displays. I use one monitor on DVI on my desk and keep my Plasma TV (via my AV receiver) hooked up all the time via HDMI but switch between them. I never use both at the same time.
Do I leave both hooked into the same card or will one display be plugged into one card and the other display in the other card?
Do I leave both hooked into the same card or will one display be plugged into one card and the other display in the other card?
chaosblade said:
Ok thanks. People had mentioned last page that my i7-920 was good for a decent while yet. MY 500watt PSU is a stock Gateway that I am unable to look up the brand ATM(work). But it has never given me troubles so far with the 4890 inclusion and RAM upgrades(3GB DDR3->9GB DDR3) I had made when I bought the PC.
I may wait for the next round as Crysis 2 and Witcher 2 seems to perform well enough. Just unsure if my lack of DX11 support is costly right now. Seemingly not I guess, especially for those two games.
black_vegeta
Member
Alright, ordered my Intel 320 160GB SSD...few more components left.
EricHasNoPull
Banned
Hey GAF! I need your help Please.
My First Attempt at Over Clocking.
To Play it safe I did a YouTube search and found a video tutorial of a guy with my exact same CPU (Quad Core 2 Q6600 @2.4GHz) and Motherboard (P5K Premium) overclocking his PC from 2.4GHz to 3.2Ghz.
Since my BIOS matched his exactly it was fairly simple to follow the video step by step and change the numbers and ratios etc.
Except for one thing... the "PCIE Frequency" mine was on [AUTO] and his was on [100]
everything else was identical and he addressed every change, so I changed mine to [100] too
I noticed this guy does the minimal changes, he doesn't mess around much with Voltage settings, (He only changed the Core voltage to 1.3) he also doesn't touch much the RAM settings. I watched other videos of people OCing their Q6600 and they change alot more things Ie: Voltage and RAM related
Anyway my next thing is my cooler/fans, my Pc was OCed from the factory when I bought a few years ago, but when I installed Win 7 from Vista, I lost my OC...and I think it also disabled the fans...Everything under the "Asus Advanced Q-fan control" was disabled so I had no idea what to do so I Enabled them all, not sure if that was the way to go, but I guess the...
..."Asus" is that big ass thing here?
So long story and wall of photos short.. My machine isn't stable, it keeps crashing If I run Photoshop or other applications simultaneously, I have no clue about the temperature, I do know CPU Temp. was at around 27C and now it's at 33C... what can you guys suggest?
And my main issue is the random spiking of the CPU speed...I tried to OC it for 3.2 GHZ, but it' mostly stays at it's stock 2.4GHz and every 15 seconds or so it spikes to 3.2 for a few seconds and back down to 2.4 and repeat...even the multiplier goes from 6 to 8x...what gives? (please see photo below) is it suppose to do that? I want it to consistently run at 3.2GHz maybe even 3.4GHz is what I prefer... Anyway I would appreciate all the help. thanks
My First Attempt at Over Clocking.
To Play it safe I did a YouTube search and found a video tutorial of a guy with my exact same CPU (Quad Core 2 Q6600 @2.4GHz) and Motherboard (P5K Premium) overclocking his PC from 2.4GHz to 3.2Ghz.
Since my BIOS matched his exactly it was fairly simple to follow the video step by step and change the numbers and ratios etc.
Except for one thing... the "PCIE Frequency" mine was on [AUTO] and his was on [100]
everything else was identical and he addressed every change, so I changed mine to [100] too
I noticed this guy does the minimal changes, he doesn't mess around much with Voltage settings, (He only changed the Core voltage to 1.3) he also doesn't touch much the RAM settings. I watched other videos of people OCing their Q6600 and they change alot more things Ie: Voltage and RAM related
Anyway my next thing is my cooler/fans, my Pc was OCed from the factory when I bought a few years ago, but when I installed Win 7 from Vista, I lost my OC...and I think it also disabled the fans...Everything under the "Asus Advanced Q-fan control" was disabled so I had no idea what to do so I Enabled them all, not sure if that was the way to go, but I guess the...
..."Asus" is that big ass thing here?
So long story and wall of photos short.. My machine isn't stable, it keeps crashing If I run Photoshop or other applications simultaneously, I have no clue about the temperature, I do know CPU Temp. was at around 27C and now it's at 33C... what can you guys suggest?
And my main issue is the random spiking of the CPU speed...I tried to OC it for 3.2 GHZ, but it' mostly stays at it's stock 2.4GHz and every 15 seconds or so it spikes to 3.2 for a few seconds and back down to 2.4 and repeat...even the multiplier goes from 6 to 8x...what gives? (please see photo below) is it suppose to do that? I want it to consistently run at 3.2GHz maybe even 3.4GHz is what I prefer... Anyway I would appreciate all the help. thanks
You have a few different issues here.EricHasNoPull said:
- Your HSF is facing the wrong way. This is hampering your temps to some extent, even if only the slightest bit. You need to turn it counter-clockwise so that the top of the Asus logo is parallel with the rear exhaust fan in your case. As is, you're dumping heat directly into your PSU, which is bad for all the components involved in that process.
- The instability is due to further voltage tweaking that you need to do. While each chip is different, I can't recall a Q6600 hitting 3.2-3.4GHz at 1.256v (of course you have some CPUs that need comparably little vcore to reach higher clocks). Assuming that the other component voltages are at a stable setting, you may want to bump up your vcore to ~1.3v or so, do some stability testing and adjust up or down from there. Again, refer to the OC guides you've used, and, keep in mind, some other volts may still need tweaking.
- Your multiplier is on AUTO and/or you still have things like EIST, and C1E enabled. If you aren't concerned with power saving, and want to run at full CPU speed 24/7, you'll need to adjust those manually.
- That Asus is better suited to cooling dual cores, and not hot 65nm parts like your C2Q. it's serviceable, but for the best temps, stability, and higher OCs, you'll want to upgrade to a better 120mm HSF at some point.
- Depending on your setup, a case with better airflow could be in the cards, as well.
A while ago I was planning on getting the 4870. I never did because all the games I was playing ran fine and I decided I didn't care enough.
Now I can't play The Witcher 2 and have it look good at a decent and consistent framerate. I need something better than my 8800GTS.
I was looking at the 460 last night, but then decided I'd bump it up a notch and get the 560 Ti instead. Is there any reason I shouldn't? Is something on the ATi side better bang-for-buck?
Now I can't play The Witcher 2 and have it look good at a decent and consistent framerate. I need something better than my 8800GTS.
I was looking at the 460 last night, but then decided I'd bump it up a notch and get the 560 Ti instead. Is there any reason I shouldn't? Is something on the ATi side better bang-for-buck?
I'm going to repost my request here, hope it doesn't bother anyone.
My motherboard just died, and I think it's high time to upgrade my GPU along with my motherboard.
So, what would a good GPU+Motherboard combo be with a Phenom II X4 (3.4 ghz quad)? Looking to get something that won't be bottlenecked by the processor, and hopefully around the budget of $200-$300.
My motherboard just died, and I think it's high time to upgrade my GPU along with my motherboard.
So, what would a good GPU+Motherboard combo be with a Phenom II X4 (3.4 ghz quad)? Looking to get something that won't be bottlenecked by the processor, and hopefully around the budget of $200-$300.
The Q6600's tend to have an overclocking hole around 3.1-3.2 Ghz as well. It's often easier to push for 3.4 for them than 3.2. If you're getting shutdowns without temp problems your system is getting enough voltage at some point. I have my Q6600 running around 3.5Ghz and CPU-Z is reporting my voltage around 1.416, not sure what it's set at in the BIOS.
Your multi should be jumping between 6x and 9x. It's a power saving feature that is pointless to disable, your chip will clock up when it's needed.
33C is super cool. I idle at 43C and under prime will push 70C which is about as high as you want to take it, if I remember it's only rated up to 71C.
EricHasNoPull
Banned
·feist· said:
Awesome, thanks for your response, I really appreciate it... Since my last post I cranked up the voltage (Core) to 1.32 form 1.3 and am getting a steady, consistent 3199.7 MHz x 8 multiplier.
I also changed the PCIE Frequency back to [AUTO] from [100], not sure if that made things better or worst LOL!?!
Well the good news is, I am now running it at consistent 3.2Ghz, the temperature hasn't really risen. (although I'm not happy with it currently, I think it could be lower)
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1825684
I don't even know honestly...Are these temps okay? or a little too warm (hot) to live with??
I also disabled the C1E but not other things from that BIOS page...
To sum it all up
Good News: I am running it at 3.2ghz now
Bad News: it's still unstable and crashing every time I stress test it or even when I simply run the "Windows Experience Index" computer crashes (Blue screen of ERROR) half way through Windows analyzing my GPU or something.
I just found this guy's set up through Google search, not only his CPU and MB are similar to mine, his ram seems to be very similar to mine to (4GB DDR2 6400 etc.) I'm going to try his OC guide, and see what happens,
http://www.overclock.net/intel-moth...-p5k-premium-overclocking-settings-check.html
As far as the HSF goes, it was installed like that when I purchased my Computer, there seems to be another one of those heat vent thingies on it's left side facing the rear exhaust fan, the one on the top is pretty much facing the blasting fan of the PSU, (My PSU is a decent quality 650W btw) which I'm assuming is redirecting the heat elsewhere, if not all over the place
Again thanks for your help.
EricHasNoPull
Banned
Shambles said:
shit..sorry I just noticed your post now, awesome stuff thanks, good to know someone else here also has my "Yesterday's News" CPU
yeah I kinda agree with the jump between 6x and 9x...(I never went up to 9 yet) but I noticed a hindering of overall performance when it was jumping back and forth, it wasn't efficiently or intelligently doing it, for example I would run a program (say Photoshop) the computer would chug trying to figure out the CPU's performance. (basically I noticed a decrease in performance and not sure if the chip is clocking up when it' suppose to) but I do like the energy saving feature of running at lower multipliers on idle.
I wonder what locked it at 8x now? was it me increasing the voltage or was it because I disabled C1E? and Speaking of voltage increasing, should I not shy away and boost it up to 1.4?
Here's one for you:
Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: Mac Mini PPC G4 First Edition (literally first five months of the Mini releasing), attempting to jump back on the PC gaming train.
Budget: Money's no Object, but pref. sub-$800 for this challenge.
Main Use: Heavy gaming. This means: Emulation of nearly everything under the sun non-PC gaming wise (EG: Wii, PS2, Saturn, PSX, GBA, ...) Replacement "console" for HD Twins. Battlefield 3's OMG EYE MELTING graphics required. Not melting the tower after five minutes of booting BF3 and having OMG EYE MELTING graphics, required.
Monitor Resolution: 1360x780, so I guess 720p for now. I'm willing to get a new monitor a few months later depending on heavy a cost this build/challenge is.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3 on Glorious graphics setting. Battlefield 3 Battlefield 3, did I mention Battlefield 3? Oh, yeah, and Super Street Fighter 4 Arcade Edition.
Are reusing any parts?: Nope.avi
When will you build?: Within two weeks or a month of Battlefield 3 launching.
Will you be overclocking?: No.
So, PC-GAF, who can give me a reasonable build for a PC able to do GLORIOUS BATTLEFIELD 3 GRAPHICS and have console-ability (EG: It just runs and has console-level graphics) for five years like a console generally has for a life-time. I really don't want to have to do a PC part rat-race for console performance. :/
Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: Mac Mini PPC G4 First Edition (literally first five months of the Mini releasing), attempting to jump back on the PC gaming train.
Budget: Money's no Object, but pref. sub-$800 for this challenge.
Main Use: Heavy gaming. This means: Emulation of nearly everything under the sun non-PC gaming wise (EG: Wii, PS2, Saturn, PSX, GBA, ...) Replacement "console" for HD Twins. Battlefield 3's OMG EYE MELTING graphics required. Not melting the tower after five minutes of booting BF3 and having OMG EYE MELTING graphics, required.
Monitor Resolution: 1360x780, so I guess 720p for now. I'm willing to get a new monitor a few months later depending on heavy a cost this build/challenge is.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3 on Glorious graphics setting. Battlefield 3 Battlefield 3, did I mention Battlefield 3? Oh, yeah, and Super Street Fighter 4 Arcade Edition.
Are reusing any parts?: Nope.avi
When will you build?: Within two weeks or a month of Battlefield 3 launching.
Will you be overclocking?: No.
So, PC-GAF, who can give me a reasonable build for a PC able to do GLORIOUS BATTLEFIELD 3 GRAPHICS and have console-ability (EG: It just runs and has console-level graphics) for five years like a console generally has for a life-time. I really don't want to have to do a PC part rat-race for console performance. :/
In before thousands of mocking posts.
TheSeks said:
You're probably better off waiting for the beta to start if you want to be safe. There's no way of knowing what will run BF3 gloriously. There's a rumour that the demo ran on a single GTX 580, but even if that does not say a whole lot about the final product. So untill people get to mess around themselves during the beta you can only bet and pray. Though a 580 at 720p should work, but there are no guarantees.
I'd say it might get difficult at 800 dollars, but maybe BF3 will scale well. For emulation and other stuff like that some will suggest an i7 2600K (has hyperthreading unlike the i5 2500k) thats already pretty expensive.
Okay, I've asked some other people, and now I'm looking at a 6950 1GB. I don't want to go above $250 for this card, for sure, and the 2GB does just that. I'd prefer cheaper than $250 if at all possible. I'd like to run The Witcher 2 on, I dunno. High settings? Whatever that means. I don't need top of the line, but I want it looking good. ): (As a bonus, I want to be able to run BF3 at decent settings down the road, but I don't think we know recommended specs for that game, yet.)Twig said:
I still have a Q6600, for what it's worth.
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