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[undu]

I finally got an MSI 460 Hawk for 174 euros instead of waiting for a 560.

I hope I didn't make a bad choice.

 

[Raistlin]

Do any UPS have the capability (or have software included) that will send an email/text msg that power in my house has gone out?

If not, this seems like a fun project to code myself.

While I haven't looked, I suspect such built-in capabilities are probably only present in enterprise gear? IIRC APC Powerchute and CyberPower PowerPanel software can be set up do to something like what you're after though. Obviously they only work with their own products though (or at least I assume that). I'd do some research on them to see which seems the best. In the past at least most seemed somewhat flaky. Admittedly it's been a while since I looked however.


I actually use Grid Junction (works with a lot of units), but that's a WHS (FTW) add-in.

 

[Neiteio]

Sure, I can do all that. It won't be for another 6-7 hours though. Have a look at those NEC options posted earlier too! They're hard to come by here in Australia. The only other IPS options I had at the time were the more expensive HP, and the cheaper AOC.

This page has some good viewing angle tests: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/viewing_angle.php . Lagom should all be grey, and is grey on my IPS but varies from red to green on my TN. The full screen colours are uniform on the IPS, but usually a different colour at the top and the bottom on the TN based on where I'm sitting. As for real world tests, the thing that gave me the shits with my TN monitor was trying to play Uncharted of all things. I found I had to sit at just the right height or I'd be missing a lot of the scene at either the top or the bottom. It looked so much nicer on the IPS (I'm sure it's better still on a proper TV, that option isn't always available to me).

Hey Fredescu, any word on the height of the u2410 on its stand when it's raised as high as can be and also when it's lowered as low as can be? I need to see if it can be configured to fit in a space 17 inches high.

 

[Ryu1999]

Anyone know where I can get a Mini-ITX P67 mobo?

Been checking [H]ardforum and I hadn't seen anything actually available right now.

 

[Ecto311]

Is the hd 5770 still a viable card for blizzard games? Or would I be missing an upcoming $120ish better card?

 

[Emitan]

Is the hd 5770 still a viable card for blizzard games? Or would I be missing an upcoming $120ish better card?

I would buy something a bit better if I were upgrading now, but my 5770 runs Starcraft 2 fine on High. It might run better now that I have a better CPU, because the game would slow down when a ton of action was happening but with 400 Zerglings on screen that could have been a processor issue.

 

[Ecto311]

I would buy something a bit better if I were upgrading now, but my 5770 runs Starcraft 2 fine on High. It might run better now that I have a better CPU, because the game would slow down when a ton of action was happening but with 400 Zerglings on screen that could have been a processor issue.

It's mainly for my wife and wow. She does play sc2 but not much. She has an e5500 oc to 3.0ghz but her gpu is a 9400gtx and really limps on most games.

 

[Emitan]

It's mainly for my wife and wow. She does play sc2 but not much. She has an e5500 oc to 3.0ghz but her gpu is a 9400gtx and really limps on most games.

It's perfect then. I'd go for it in that situation.

 

[hyelife]

Damn.. Yesterday I drove an hour to Microcenter to pick up my parts and being all excited and happy. After I picked up my parts and drove back home I realized that they charged me for the PSU and did not give it me. I was too excited and happy and now I'm depressed. Now I don't know how Microcenter keeps track of there products and what they sold, but do you guys think if I call them I won't have trouble trying to get my part?

 

[TheExodu5]

I would buy something a bit better if I were upgrading now, but my 5770 runs Starcraft 2 fine on High. It might run better now that I have a better CPU, because the game would slow down when a ton of action was happening but with 400 Zerglings on screen that could have been a processor issue.

Yeah, SC2 is mostly CPU limited. 5770 should be fine.

 

[mbmonk]

I am going to attempt to overclock my Q6600 tonight ( mobo: MSI P6N Diamond ) and I have experienced 2 problems in the past when I tried this

1) Large 'blackout' zone - The default clock speed is 2.4Ghz for the Q6600. If I tried to OC it to 2.7Ghz - 3Ghz the machine will not post. It will attempt to boot, fail, and the reboot with default safe setting

2) Heat temps - If I OC the chip and really put a high load on it, it quickly climbs over 75 degrees C. I heard 75 degrees Celcius is the upper bound limit in terms of pushing yet staying safe. Is this correct?

I am going to double check my air cooling in terms of thermal paste and air flow direction to see if I can get the temps down.

You all might see me posting questions later tonight while I try to get this mofo OC'ed.

 

[MedIC86]

1) Large 'blackout' zone - The default clock speed is 2.4Ghz for the Q6600. If I tried to OC it to 2.7Ghz - 3Ghz the machine will not post. It will attempt to boot, fail, and the reboot with default safe setting

2) Heat temps - If I OC the chip and really put a high load on it, it quickly climbs over 75 degrees C. I heard 75 degrees Celcius is the upper bound limit in terms of pushing yet staying safe. Is this correct?

1) Try to increase the juice if it does not boot. Try to keep the voltage on auto. try messing around with changing the FSB and the multiplier in sync with your memory timings. (also probarly premature to say but not all cpu's can oc properly. i had an E6600 a while back that just would not overclock more then 150mhz )

2) G0 stepping? then the thermal specification is around 71 degrees C. they throttle back at 98 degrees C. Also dont try to get the core voltage much higer then 1.5v (my friend had a stable oc at 1.58 but his q6600 did not last very long (what kind of CPU cooler you got?, get a scythe MUGEN)

 

[InertiaXr]

It looks like my 2500k is stable at 4.4GHz at 1.2 vcore, anything wrong with that? 1.2 vcore seems a little low but I'm hovering around 55-57c so it seems to be working well.

 

[xero273]

Damn.. Yesterday I drove an hour to Microcenter to pick up my parts and being all excited and happy. After I picked up my parts and drove back home I realized that they charged me for the PSU and did not give it me. I was too excited and happy and now I'm depressed. Now I don't know how Microcenter keeps track of there products and what they sold, but do you guys think if I call them I won't have trouble trying to get my part?

you still have the receipt? Not sure if it would work, but show them the receipt and say you bought the PSU, but never got it when you left the store.

 

[catapult37]

A question about SSDs and gaming. I'm specing out a build with a C300, but I know the 400s are coming in February and are supposedly a lot faster. What's the impact for gaming? I know I'm already getting a significant increase just being on an SSD. I know I'm looking at improved loading, but is there any other major impact in-game? Does it depend on the game (ie streaming open world)? Any thoughts? Should I wait, or would the C300 suit me fine?

 

[mbmonk]

1) Try to increase the juice if it does not boot. Try to keep the voltage on auto. try messing around with changing the FSB and the multiplier in sync with your memory timings. (also probarly premature to say but not all cpu's can oc properly. i had an E6600 a while back that just would not overclock more then 150mhz )

2) G0 stepping? then the thermal specification is around 71 degrees C. they throttle back at 98 degrees C. Also dont try to get the core voltage much higer then 1.5v (my friend had a stable oc at 1.58 but his q6600 did not last very long (what kind of CPU cooler you got?, get a scythe MUGEN)

Thanks for the tip about bumping the voltage. I am just terrified to bump voltage, because I know that can lead to an early grave for the CPU, but to be honest I am down to either getting this thing OC'd or killing it. Either way I will be fine

1) I believe the Q6600 is G0 Stepping. I check a year or so ago.

2) My air cooler is a Cooler Master Hyper TX ( link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103010 )

3) Last time I think I left the multiplier alone and strictly messed with the FSB ratings. So that could be a path worth persuing. Thank you.

 

[JoeBoy101]

It looks like my 2500k is stable at 4.4GHz at 1.2 vcore, anything wrong with that? 1.2 vcore seems a little low but I'm hovering around 55-57c so it seems to be working well.

You load/tortured tested that yet? Seems like you'd need 1.3 for 4.4ghz, but then these chips are so far performing outstandingly well given voltages and temperatures in my uneducated opinion. Still, Intel Burn or Prime 95 is calling.

 

[MedIC86]

It looks like my 2500k is stable at 4.4GHz at 1.2 vcore, anything wrong with that? 1.2 vcore seems a little low but I'm hovering around 55-57c so it seems to be working well.

Great, now push it even further. there is certainly room for more if you get it stable at that vcore with those temps.

A question about SSDs and gaming. I'm specing out a build with a C300, but I know the 400s are coming in February and are supposedly a lot faster. What's the impact for gaming? I know I'm already getting a significant increase just being on an SSD. I know I'm looking at improved loading, but is there any other major impact in-game? Does it depend on the game (ie streaming open world)? Any thoughts? Should I wait, or would the C300 suit me fine?

Depends not all games react the same, some underutilize the SSD. but in general loading becomes a bit faster. but dont except 10fps more or that kind of thing, its subtle at best. (at least what i noticed)

 

[MedIC86]

I am just terrified to bump voltage,

If you keep a laptop/ipad/whateverinetdevice next to the pc your oc'ing, get a the spec sheets from the hardware vendor of all the stuff your overclocking. Keep around the marges they say, then there is no need to worry.

Also, what kind of memory you have? if you have micron chips (like crucial) you can get the volt a lot higher because they warrant more then the stock voltage (at least for crucial i know this)

 

[mbmonk]

If you keep a laptop/ipad/whateverinetdevice next to the pc your oc'ing, get a the spec sheets from the hardware vendor of all the stuff your overclocking. Keep around the marges they say, then there is no need to worry.

Great point. I will hunt down the spec sheet again. I found it once before.

Also, what kind of memory you have? if you have micron chips (like crucial) you can get the volt a lot higher because they warrant more then the stock voltage (at least for crucial i know this)

I bought a Kingston "Hyper X" 2GB RAM stick. I think it's DDR2. I tried to buy a quality power supply and decent RAM for overclocking purposes. I assumed that it was decent RAM at least

 

[MedIC86]

I bought a Kingston "Hyper X" 2GB RAM stick. I think it's DDR2. I tried to buy a quality power supply and decent RAM for overclocking purposes. I assumed that it was decent RAM at least

Yeah that is a decent stick of ram its not micron but it will do fine. Just go in small baby steps. try to get a feeling for the procedure of ocing. no need tor rush.

 

[hyelife]

you still have the receipt? Not sure if it would work, but show them the receipt and say you bought the PSU, but never got it when you left the store.

I just called them. There gonna do an inventory check and call back!

 

[mbmonk]

Yeah that is a decent stick of ram its not micron but it will do fine. Just go in small baby steps. try to get a feeling for the procedure of ocing. no need tor rush.

I thought OC'ing basically just had you bumping the FSB settings up until it became unstable, and then upping the voltage to stablelize it. I didn't mess with any of the RAM settings at all or even the multiplier for the CPU.

I need to read up on OC'ing again. Thanks for all your help.

 

[mclaren777]

Damn.. Yesterday I drove an hour to Microcenter to pick up my parts and being all excited and happy. After I picked up my parts and drove back home I realized that they charged me for the PSU and did not give it me. I was too excited and happy and now I'm depressed. Now I don't know how Microcenter keeps track of there products and what they sold, but do you guys think if I call them I won't have trouble trying to get my part?

I handle the inventory where I work and having inaccurate numbers is not good no matter how it might seem. I'd contact the manager and explain the situation. I bet you'll get your PSU back.

 

[mclaren777]

You load/tortured tested that yet? Seems like you'd need 1.3 for 4.4ghz, but then these chips are so far performing outstandingly well given voltages and temperatures in my uneducated opinion. Still, Intel Burn or Prime 95 is calling.

What would be a good, safe voltage for a 100.0 BCLK with 42x Turbo multiplier?

Would I even need to raise the default value?

 

[Kalnos]

What would be a good, safe voltage for a 100.0 BCLK with 42x Turbo multiplier?

Would I even need to raise the default value?

You don't raise voltage until you find the max multiplier/etc for your current voltage, and then you raise in a small increment.

EDIT: What I mean to say is, it's hard to say because it seems like everyone has different experiences with the same parts.

 

[mclaren777]

Source

The Ivy Bridge 22nm story gets even better. The new chip is socket LGA 1155 and it is socket compatible with the existing Sandy Bridge processors and Sugar Bay 2011 platform. Unfortunately we are quite sure that Cougar point PCH chipset of Sandy Bridge won’t support the new 22nm Ivy Bridge.

We are afraid that you will still need a new board. Even the Panther point PCH chipset is pin compatible with Cougar Point chipset of Sandy Bridge, but again this might help board manufactures to make boards faster, but end users will need to buy a new board.

 

[Ecto311]

Ok another question, I'm assuming the hd5770 needs a better than 300w shit power - what is recommended at a reasonable price?

 

[JoeBoy101]

Source

A new board. Again? That would a bit silly given its sticking to same socket, but then, I'm not an engineer.

As to your question, it does depend, but based on my runnings around the Internet, 1.35 is fine. But given Sandy Bridge, the best ways to do is either using the UEFI EZ mode for performance or take more direct control and OC yourself. But then, like Kalnos said, you raise the multiplier then you raise voltage to the minimum to get stability. If its still stable, no need to mess with voltage. When I did my 9450, I took it to a ghz I was comfy with and then looked to see if I needed to increase voltage. Turns out I didn't but I only took it up to 3ghz and change.

 

[Mr_Brit]

A new board. Again? That would a bit silly given its sticking to same socket, but then, I'm not an engineer.

As to your question, it does depend, but based on my runnings around the Internet, 1.35 is fine. But given Sandy Bridge, the best ways to do is either using the UEFI EZ mode for performance or take more direct control and OC yourself. But then, like Kalnos said, you raise the multiplier then you raise voltage to the minimum to get stability. If its still stable, no need to mess with voltage. When I did my 9450, I took it to a ghz I was comfy with and then looked to see if I needed to increase voltage. Turns out I didn't but I only took it up to 3ghz and change.

Not surprising as the current P67 and H67 are just slightly upgraded rehashes of the P55 and H55 chipsets released 1.5 years ago. You can expect the socket 2011 chipsets to be compatible with IB though as they should be a proper generational leap over current X58 chipsets which means they'll run with Ivy Bridge.

 

[JoeBoy101]

Not surprising as the current P67 and H67 are just slightly upgraded rehashes of the P55 and H55 chipsets released 1.5 years ago. You can expect the socket 2011 chipsets to be compatible with IB though as they should be a proper generational leap over current X58 chipsets which means they'll run with Ivy Bridge.

Well I'm not really sweating given that what I've initially heard is that the IB will be priced much more for high end and likely out of my comfort zone. Of course, that's what I'm saying now and we're far off from release still.

 

[Snuggles]

I'm looking for rec's on a good, budget priced (sub $40) gaming mouse. I'll probably get something nicer down the road, but for now I just want something decent to hold me over for the mean time.

I have my eye on the Razer Lachesis since it's like 60% off through Amazon, but the reviews are iffy and it's wired.


On a similar note, does anyone actually play with a mouse like this:

it's freakin hideous

 

[keeblerdrow]

Okay, this is just ballparking and I'm not absolutely getting everything from one source, but these parts are approximately what I want (I'm perfectly willing to get an equivalent nvidia video card). My problem is that I need to shave $200 off of this price tag. Where can I reduce my prices here or what kind of excesses in this build could easily be pared down?

Help me shave money off this!

Also: I know very little about hard drive manufacturers. Who sucks, what sucks... any light shed on that would be helpful.

 

[sh4mike]

(problem solved)

 

[mclaren777]

I'm looking for rec's on a good, budget priced (sub $40) gaming mouse. I'll probably get something nicer down the road, but for now I just want something decent to hold me over for the mean time.

I just bought a Logitech MX 518 as part of my build and I'm loving it so far.

$34.99 @ Newegg

 

[Snuggles]

I just bought a Logitech MX 518 as part of my build and I'm loving it so far.

$34.99 @ Newegg

Cool, I was just looking at that one on Amazon (same price) so I'll just go ahead and get that. Thanks.

I'm getting closer, it's exciting. I'm expecting that I'll finally have my complete PC in about a month. Can't fucking wait.

 

[Blackface]

Okay, this is just ballparking and I'm not absolutely getting everything from one source, but these parts are approximately what I want (I'm perfectly willing to get an equivalent nvidia video card). My problem is that I need to shave $200 off of this price tag. Where can I reduce my prices here or what kind of excesses in this build could easily be pared down?

Help me shave money off this!

Also: I know very little about hard drive manufacturers. Who sucks, what sucks... any light shed on that would be helpful.

By getting the Samsung F3 1tb and 4 gigs of ram instead of 8 you will save $70. Outside of that you are going to need to buy a cheaper graphics card if you want to keep Sandybridge. You could save like $10-15 going with a smaller wattage PSU (750 is overkill for your build) but outside of that, it's looking like the card has to go.

 

[Felix Lighter]

Okay, this is just ballparking and I'm not absolutely getting everything from one source, but these parts are approximately what I want (I'm perfectly willing to get an equivalent nvidia video card). My problem is that I need to shave $200 off of this price tag. Where can I reduce my prices here or what kind of excesses in this build could easily be pared down?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/keeblerdrow/Jan2011proposedsystem.png[IMG]


Help me shave money off this!

Also: I know very little about hard drive manufacturers. Who sucks, what sucks... any light shed on that would be helpful.[/QUOTE]

You can go with this harddrive and save $25:
[URL="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185&cm_re=samsung_f3-_-22-152-185-_-Product"]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185&cm_re=samsung_f3-_-22-152-185-_-Product[/URL]

You can go with 4GB of ram instead of 8 and save $42:
[URL="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231274&cm_re=g.skill_ripjaws_series_4gb_%282_x_2gb%29_240-pin_ddr3-_-20-231-274-_-Product"]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231274&cm_re=g.skill_ripjaws_series_4gb_%282_x_2gb%29_240-pin_ddr3-_-20-231-274-_-Product[/URL]

Edit: Ha, beat!

 

[desu]

Okay, this is just ballparking and I'm not absolutely getting everything from one source, but these parts are approximately what I want (I'm perfectly willing to get an equivalent nvidia video card). My problem is that I need to shave $200 off of this price tag. Where can I reduce my prices here or what kind of excesses in this build could easily be pared down?

Help me shave money off this!

Also: I know very little about hard drive manufacturers. Who sucks, what sucks... any light shed on that would be helpful.

I know nothing about us prices (but I guess the price for the power supply looks good). However is there a reason you need 750W? I think a good 500W is enough for your system if you dont want to go sli/crossfire at some point.

Except ram/hdd I dont really see parts where you could save money (unless you really want to downgrade your system...). I guess if you have mircostore? in close distance you could pick up on of the cheap 2500ks?

 

[keeblerdrow]

By getting the Samsung F3 1tb and 4 gigs of ram instead of 8 you will save $70. Outside of that you are going to need to buy a cheaper graphics card if you want to keep Sandybridge. You could save like $10-15 going with a smaller wattage PSU (750 is overkill for your build) but outside of that, it's looking like the card has to go.

Also, good point on the PSU. I come from a building legacy of always being short on power for my demands, so I tend to overcompensate too often. I see the Samsung F3 has a 3gb/s SATA rate as opposed to the 6gb/s I see on some other hard drives. Am I just better off getting a SSD some time down the road and "getting serious" about speed or finding a fast transfer HDD and calling it good?

 

[Ikuu]

I'm looking for rec's on a good, budget priced (sub $40) gaming mouse. I'll probably get something nicer down the road, but for now I just want something decent to hold me over for the mean time.

I have my eye on the Razer Lachesis since it's like 60% off through Amazon, but the reviews are iffy and it's wired.

The Lachesis is a great mouse, though occasionally mine acts up a little and I need to unplug it, but when it works it's awesome.

 

[Fredescu]

Hey Fredescu, any word on the height of the u2410 on its stand when it's raised as high as can be and also when it's lowered as low as can be? I need to see if it can be configured to fit in a space 17 inches high.

The stand lets the screen go all the way down and rest on the base, so the minimum height is about 15 and half inches. Maximum is 19 and a half, so there's quite a lot of travel there. I'll see if I can get pics later on.

 

[Emitan]

I installed the new BIOS for the P8P67 Pro to fix the double POST issue and now my RAM is at 1333 instead of 1600. I couldn't see an obvious way to fix this so I left it alone, but is there a fix or should I just leave it?

 

[Felix Lighter]

http://www.ripten.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/nooooo.jpg[IMG]

Also, good point on the PSU. I come from a building legacy of always being short on power for my demands, so I tend to overcompensate too often. I see the Samsung F3 has a 3gb/s SATA rate as opposed to the 6gb/s I see on some other hard drives. Am I just better off getting a SSD some time down the road and "getting serious" about speed or finding a fast transfer HDD and calling it good?[/QUOTE]

You won't see any benefit from SATA 6gb/s with a mechanical drive anyway. Just get the SSD at some point down the road.

 

[Ikuu]

I installed the new BIOS for the P8P67 Pro to fix the double POST issue and now my RAM is at 1333 instead of 1600. I couldn't see an obvious way to fix this so I left it alone, but is there a fix or should I just leave it?

There's an option somewhere in the Advanced section where you can set it to 1600, I can't remember what it's called but it should be easy enough to find.

 

[hyelife]

I handle the inventory where I work and having inaccurate numbers is not good no matter how it might seem. I'd contact the manager and explain the situation. I bet you'll get your PSU back.

I just got off the phone with the manager and the said they have it. They also said they will ship it to me for no extra cost.

 

[keeblerdrow]

You won't see any benefit from SATA 6gb/s with a mechanical drive anyway. Just get the SSD at some point down the road.

Roger that. If I had to take one step down from the 6950, where would my foot be best placed?

 

[Emitan]

There's an option somewhere in the Advanced section where you can set it to 1600, I can't remember what it's called but it should be easy enough to find.

I could have sworn it was there a few days ago but I haven't seen it since the BIOS update.

 

[geeko]

SO me and a friend have never built a computer before, but I have some knowledge in upgrading computers. We got all the parts from newegg today and plan on going at it tomorrow. One main question I have is:

Will we be provided with good enough instructions out of the boxes to put this all together, like what cords go where, and what to do after first boot?

I will definitely use this forum to ask questions and such, but I just don't know what to expect. I am anxious and excited.

 

[Ikuu]

I've got the same board with the latest (beta) BIOS and it's in there, let me go and check.