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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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CmdBash

Member
The integrated intel hd 4000 on my i5 3570k has surprisingly good performance when I updated the drivers, not bad at all; been able to play deus ex:hr and dishonored at 1080p on lowest and 720p above medium at fairly smooth fps.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Really liking the CM Storm Recon. Only two qualms with it:

1.I moved from an MX518 so I am not used to having forward/backward buttons on the right as well, since it is for lefties and righties. I had to turn them off for now, can't stop accidentally hitting them.

2.Took my MX518 to work and it feels slow as shit now, since the 518 is only 1800DPI at max and the Recon is 4000DPI.

Otherwise I love it. Love all the different colors I can change the LED's to as well. Really pleased for $34.
I use 800DPI. Gotta be accurate yo!
 

GeoGonzo

Member
For some reason P8Z77-I Deluxe/WD is cheaper than the regular P8Z77-I Deluxe that I was planning to use for my SFF built.

I did a quick search and noticed that back in february Kennah asked what the difference between the two motherboards was, and mkenyon answered "WD has WiDi which is Wireless display. Good for HTPCs, bad for gaming"

Maybe this is a dumb question but wireless display is just an option, right? Is the WD version worse for gaming no-matter-what?
 

Quake1028

Member
I use 800DPI. Gotta be accurate yo!

I use 1800DPI on the 518, unsure what I am using on the Recon right now, but it's definitely higher. Not 4000DPI though, that's insane.

Edit - My Hyper 212 Plus is supposed to arrive today. Bringing my PC to work on Wednesday to install it.
 

kennah

Member
For some reason P8Z77-I Deluxe/WD is cheaper than the regular P8Z77-I Deluxe that I was planning to use for my SFF built.

I did a quick search and noticed that back in february Kennah asked what the difference between the two motherboards was, and mkenyon answered "WD has WiDi which is Wireless display. Good for HTPCs, bad for gaming"

Maybe this is a dumb question but wireless display is just an option, right? Is the WD version worse for gaming no-matter-what?

Only if you use the WiDi thing. Get whatever board you can find for cheaper. They are basically exactly the same. The reason you are finding the WD for cheaper is because the non-WD one is that it was discontinued so it's all old stock.

And - buy soon, they're all discontinued now and getting harder to find.
 

Seanspeed

Banned
The integrated intel hd 4000 on my i5 3570k has surprisingly good performance when I updated the drivers, not bad at all; been able to play deus ex:hr and dishonored at 1080p on lowest and 720p above medium at fairly smooth fps.
This is what I was looking at before. Get a PC with HD 4000 so I could play *some* games and have a PS4 as my main gaming machine.

I decided instead to just throw some extra bones at the PC to play anything and wait a few years on the PS4 til its got some worthwhile exclusives and whatnot.

I've read the 4600 is a pretty big jump up from the 4000, too.
 

CmdBash

Member
This is what I was looking at before. Get a PC with HD 4000 so I could play *some* games and have a PS4 as my main gaming machine.

I decided instead to just throw some extra bones at the PC to play anything and wait a few years on the PS4 til its got some worthwhile exclusives and whatnot.

I've read the 4600 is a pretty big jump up from the 4000, too.

well i'm planning to get a graphics card later this year after exams. Are the haswell cpu and its integrated graphics worth it? the motherboards and the cpu itself seem a bit more costly than a ivy bridge setup.
 

kennah

Member
well i'm planning to get a graphics card later this year after exams. Are the haswell cpu and its integrated graphics worth it? the motherboards and the cpu itself seem a bit more costly than a ivy bridge setup.

There's no point in doing it if you already have the 3570K. Just wait until you get your GPU. I don't think the difference in graphics would be worth the hassle of tearing your system apart and returning everything then getting new stuff.
 

CmdBash

Member
There's no point in doing it if you already have the 3570K. Just wait until you get your GPU. I don't think the difference in graphics would be worth the hassle of tearing your system apart and returning everything then getting new stuff.

nah of course I wouldn't haha, was just curious. on a side note, discovered that during probably manufacturing or something the cable for the front fan for my shinobi window got squashed and deformed, so I only have my rear fan. what the hell. It isn't even worth the fuel to go back to the store which is all the way across the city to get a replacement, pisses me off so much.
 
I was browsing for a new laptop.
Which has the best specs for gaming?

Acer v5 15.6"
- $449.50/699.99
- Windows 8
- Pentium Core i3
- 4-6GB of Ram
- NVIDIA GeForce GT

Toshiba L75D-A7383 17.3"
- $429.99/549.99
- Windows 8
- AMD A4
- 6GB of Ram
- AMD Radeon HD 8330

HD Pavilion 17"
- $499.99/639.99
- Windows 8
- Intel Core i3
- 6GB of Ram
- Intel HD Graphics 4000

Dell Inspiron 14R 14"
- $699.99/799
- Windows 8
- Intel Core i5
- 6GB of Ram
- ATI Mobility Radeon HD 5470

Samsung ATIV Windows 8 Tablet 11.6"
- $649.99
- Windows 8
- Intel Atom
- PowerVR SGX 545

Toshiba Satellite C855-S5350 15.6"
- $429.99/$479.90
- Windows 8
- Intel Pentium
- 6GB of Ram
- Intel HD Graphics 3000

Toshiba Satellite C55 15.6"
- $499
- Intel Core i3
- Windows 8
- 6GB of Ram
- Intel HD Graphics (multiple GPU)
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
nah of course I wouldn't haha, was just curious. on a side note, discovered that during probably manufacturing or something the cable for the front fan for my shinobi window got squashed and deformed, so I only have my rear fan. what the hell. It isn't even worth the fuel to go back to the store which is all the way across the city to get a replacement, pisses me off so much.
Give BitFenix a call
 

Sothpaw

Member
So I built my first ever pc (Haswell based) about 3 weeks ago with a lot of help in this thread. Best thing I ever did, I love the thing so much and I run everything as smooth as butter.

I got a Corsair K70 mechanical keyboard to go along with it. The thing is amazing and totally worth the price as far as I'm concerned. Such a huge upgrade from my Razer keyboard.
 

RSTEIN

Comics, serious business!
So I built my first ever pc (Haswell based) about 3 weeks ago with a lot of help in this thread. Best thing I ever did, I love the thing so much and I run everything as smooth as butter.

I got a Corsair K70 mechanical keyboard to go along with it. The thing is amazing and totally worth the price as far as I'm concerned. Such a huge upgrade from my Razer keyboard.

Well, I guess I'll be the first to say it: PICS!!!!!!!!!
 

Lizard with a ladder

learnin' with the blacks!
I need some assistance solving a problem that came up recently. There's this loud beeping coming out of my pc speakers when gaming. It's happened twice so far and usually happens when a game is loading up. It causes massive slowdown in the game when it happens. Usually last for about 5 seconds.

I immediately checked my temps. Both CPU and GPU temps are where they should be. Any ideas what might be the issue?
 

Addnan

Member
I was browsing for a new laptop.
Which has the best specs for gaming?

Any chance you can go desktop? At $600 desktop will destroy anything there.

Otherwise. The laptop thread will probably be better help. From looking at the specs posted none of them look particularly good for gaming.
 
Any chance you can go desktop? At $600 desktop will destroy anything there.

Otherwise. The laptop thread will probably be better help. From looking at the specs posted none of them look particularly good for gaming.
Portability. Commuting between college and home, different buildings on campus, the bus, going on vacation

And I'm not looking for a dedicated gaming laptop. Just looking for something I can do school work, surf the web, watch Netflix, but this time I actually care about PC gaming.

As long as I can run games like The Forest or Miasmata on medium or just low settings, I'd be happy
 

shoes

Neo Member
Finally upgraded my 5870 that was starting to overheat badly to a 770.
Since I'd just bought an ASUS 144hz monitor, I decided to try out the lightboost functionality. Not entirely sure it's that much better than simply using the monitor at 144hz.

Can say the jump from 3800 to 8000 for FFXIV:ARR at max settings(1080) is awesome. The jump in custom settings was 8kish to 15k(!!!). Batman:AC with everything absolutely maxed was still avg of 115 and a high of 154. Very happy with this 360 dollar card(yay working at TD).
 

kennah

Member
Finally upgraded my 5870 that was starting to overheat badly to a 770.
Since I'd just bought an ASUS 144hz monitor, I decided to try out the lightboost functionality. Not entirely sure it's that much better than simply using the monitor at 144hz.

Can say the jump from 3800 to 8000 for FFXIV:ARR at max settings(1080) is awesome. The jump in custom settings was 8kish to 15k(!!!). Batman:AC with everything absolutely maxed was still avg of 115 and a high of 154. Very happy with this 360 dollar card(yay working at TD).

Prepare to be PM'd en masse :p
 

Salaadin

Member
Im setting up a PC for my brother and hes going to need wifi but his current PCI card is getting a spotty signal so Im pricing out some cards for him.
Any suggestions here would be appreciated. Would something like THIS get the job done? I never even heard of TP-Link before but the reviews are good.

Whats has the better options here...USB or PCI-E?
 

kennah

Member
Im setting up a PC for my brother and hes going to need wifi but his current PCI card is getting a spotty signal so Im pricing out some cards for him.
Any suggestions here would be appreciated. Would something like THIS get the job done? I never even heard of TP-Link before but the reviews are good.

Whats has the better options here...USB or PCI-E?

They aren't suggested because they're pretty universally spotty... If you can, use powerline adaptors.

USB with an extension cable so you can tape it to the wall for better reception is one option

PCI-E with an external antenna is another.

But yeah... go wired where you can. Wifi is for laptops and tablets and phones... not for desktops.
 

shoes

Neo Member
If worst comes to worst, try one of the universal wifi adapters for blu-rays/TVs.

Netgear makes one and it plugs into the wall, receives Wi-Fi and gives you an ethernet out to hardwire a device. ~49ish.
 

diaspora

Member
Investing in Adobe CC without more memory was probably a bad idea. Seeing InDesign, PS, and Waterfox use sub-90% of my 4GB RAM is really something.
 
Have all of my components and want to start building it tonight. Relying a lot on these NewEgg videos.

Any advice before I begin?

Case: Fractal Design Arc Midi
GPU: AMD Sapphire HD 7970
CPU: i5-3570K
MB: ASRock Z77 Pro 4
RAM: Kingston HyperX Blu 16GB
PSU: XFX Pro750W
SSD: Samsung 840 Pro
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200 3 TB 7200RPM
OS: Windows 7
 

RSTEIN

Comics, serious business!
Have all of my components and want to start building it tonight. Relying a lot on these NewEgg videos.

Any advice before I begin?

Are you relying on the stock 3570k fan? The hardest thing to do is mount the heat sink to the motherboard. So just make sure you are really really comfortable with the stock fan. In order to upgrade to the hyper 212 you're going to have to take the mother board out and unplug everything. So you should do it now rather than later.
 

Roland1979

Junior Member
Are you relying on the stock 3570k fan? The hardest thing to do is mount the heat sink to the motherboard. So just make sure you are really really comfortable with the stock fan. In order to upgrade to the hyper 212 you're going to have to take the mother board out and unplug everything. So you should do it now rather than later.

If you order a motherboard will it have the stock heat sink pre-mounted already or are you expected to install it yourself (not that i want to, but if i don't have to take it off and clean up the previous paste-gunk-leftover i wouldn't mind).
 

ss_lemonade

Member
If you order a motherboard will it have the stock heat sink pre-mounted already or are you expected to install it yourself (not that i want to, but if i don't have to take it off and clean up the previous paste-gunk-leftover i wouldn't mind).
No, heatsink comes with the cpu. The stock heatsink fan does have thermal paste applied to it already I believe (never bothered to use stock so I'm not sure) so its just a matter of securing it onto the motherboard
 

RSTEIN

Comics, serious business!
If you order a motherboard will it have the stock heat sink pre-mounted already or are you expected to install it yourself (not that i want to, but if i don't have to take it off and clean up the previous paste-gunk-leftover i wouldn't mind).

No. The heat sink comes with the CPU, not the motherboard. You need to install it yourself.

Edit: beaten like an i3.
 

scogoth

Member
Give BitFenix a call

I only noticed it after I installed everything in though, will I still be able to get a replacement?

Good luck. I tried to get a replacement LED for the colossus and went through 8 months of calls and emails asking when they were going to replace it. Kept getting "we will send it next week" every time and then gave up. Good cases but horrible customer service
 

Quake1028

Member
Is it a new or older house/apartment?

I'd recommend one of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...E16833704164&gclid=COf_-8bloLgCFdB7QgodRjYAdg

I currently have 10/1 home internet (yeah, fucking shameful). I am currently using a USB wireless dongle for my desktop. Here are my speed results:

y3wzz0A.png


Would one of those powerline kits help me?
 

knitoe

Member
I currently have 10/1 home internet (yeah, fucking shameful). I am currently using a USB wireless dongle for my desktop. Here are my speed results:

y3wzz0A.png


Would one of those powerline kits help me?

You are getting your rated Internet speed so it won't help for that. Powerline could offer better latency and LAN speeds.
 
Alright. It's been relatively smooth sailing so far. I have everything but the GPU mounted in the case, and am in the process of plugging frontal case components into the motherboard.

The problem is both my case's power and reset buttons have a two pin plug and the input on the mobo lists one pin for each. They both have a "GND" input listed next to them and the reset button has a "Dummy" next to it. What am I supposed to do?
 

RSTEIN

Comics, serious business!
So I sit down to start overclocking for the first time. I launch CPUZ and CPUID Hardware Monitor to look at the default temps, voltage, etc., before overclocking. I start Prime95 and see this:

qj0I43M.png


Does this mean my i5 3570k is already running at ~4.2ghz? Or am I totally reading it wrong?
 

Roland1979

Junior Member
If you're going to overclock is it best to turn off any turbo modes, or is it easier to have it on and start from there. I also thought turbo mode will only use the full speed when it is asked for it, in other words when under heavy load. If you overclock will it be on full speed all the time or will it use less energy and run at lower speeds when it's not under stress?
 

ScRYeD

Member
I've recently overclocked my 3570k to 4.5ghz ran a Prime95 blend for 12 hours max temps of 65c @ 1.35v(manual voltage) in the bios but it only gets to a maximum of 1.280 according to CpuZ and Coretemp. Now if I set the voltage to 1.3v it just won't OC and I get a bsod (I probably should of found out what type of bsod it was). Is this good or should I try lower the voltage to 1.32 or try offset or just leave it as is?

Got the asus lk from the recommends. Only changed voltage, nultiplier and tprobe to max.
 

shoes

Neo Member
I've recently overclocked my 3570k to 4.5ghz ran a Prime95 blend for 12 hours max temps of 65c @ 1.35v(manual voltage) in the bios but it only gets to a maximum of 1.280 according to CpuZ and Coretemp. Now if I set the voltage to 1.3v it just won't OC and I get a bsod (I probably should of found out what type of bsod it was). Is this good or should I try lower the voltage to 1.32 or try offset or just leave it as is?

Got the asus lk from the recommends. Only changed voltage, nultiplier and tprobe to max.

What you set the voltage to and what the board actually pushes are usually going to be different depending on the quality of the board.

So yeah, if you BSOD, 99% of the time it's going to be undervolting. Only thing to do really is to bump it up, as you have.
 
PC GAF, what is a good budget WiFi receiver? I just realized that I forgot to include one when I was buying parts for my new PC. I say "budget" because I'm moving into a small studio apartment so I don't exactly need that strong of a receiver. I'd like to spend from 20 to 30 USD.

This got some good reviews:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JWMOOI/?tag=neogaf0e-20

But I respect the knowledge on here so I'll wait for your input on what brands I should go for.
 
I have the Corsair 350D case with the Corsair H60 Cooler and right now I have it setup so that it is blowing air into the case through the radiator in a push/pull configuration because corsair recommends doing it that way and then I have another fan on top that exhausts air out of the case. I was just wondering if this was the best way to do it or would it be better reversing the fans? I suppose it would probably make an insignificant difference either way if i had to guess. here is a crude diagram of how its setup:

 

MogCakes

Member
I intend to build a PC sometime in the future and have no idea what constitutes a quality case. Can someone enlighten me in layman's terms?
 

Ryoku

Member
I intend to build a PC sometime in the future and have no idea what constitutes a quality case. Can someone enlighten me in layman's terms?

Get a full tower. Make sure it has at least front and rear fans. Something with great airflow to keep components cool. Amount of drive bays is really an opinion. I prefer more so I can plop more drives when needed. Plenty of room for a big GPU, a big PSU. As for a side fan, eh. You can get one if you want to try it out, but from my experience, it doesn't really help with cooling, as it disrupts proper airflow. Make sure that the case has enough room on the other side-panel for cable management. You want to keep the clutter out of the main-space so there is proper airflow. Also, make sure it has enough expansion slots in the rear.

I have an NZXT Phantom full tower case, in case you wanted to know.
 

Addnan

Member
I intend to build a PC sometime in the future and have no idea what constitutes a quality case. Can someone enlighten me in layman's terms?

Take a look at what is in the OP. Most don't need anything big, a mid tower is more than enough. Just need something that will keep things cool enough, quiet and fit everything inside. The OP has the best for each price range.
Get a full tower. Make sure it has at least front and rear fans. Something with great airflow to keep components cool. Amount of drive bays is really an opinion. I prefer more so I can plop more drives when needed. Plenty of room for a big GPU, a big PSU.

I have an NZXT Phantom full tower case.

Full tower is overkill for most people with just a single card, no water etc.
 
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