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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I use 800DPI. Gotta be accurate yo!
For some reason P8Z77-I Deluxe/WD is cheaper than the regular P8Z77-I Deluxe that I was planning to use for my SFF built.
I did a quick search and noticed that back in february Kennah asked what the difference between the two motherboards was, and mkenyon answered "WD has WiDi which is Wireless display. Good for HTPCs, bad for gaming"
Maybe this is a dumb question but wireless display is just an option, right? Is the WD version worse for gaming no-matter-what?
I did a quick search and noticed that back in february Kennah asked what the difference between the two motherboards was, and mkenyon answered "WD has WiDi which is Wireless display. Good for HTPCs, bad for gaming"
Maybe this is a dumb question but wireless display is just an option, right? Is the WD version worse for gaming no-matter-what?
I use 1800DPI on the 518, unsure what I am using on the Recon right now, but it's definitely higher. Not 4000DPI though, that's insane.
Edit - My Hyper 212 Plus is supposed to arrive today. Bringing my PC to work on Wednesday to install it.
Only if you use the WiDi thing. Get whatever board you can find for cheaper. They are basically exactly the same. The reason you are finding the WD for cheaper is because the non-WD one is that it was discontinued so it's all old stock.
And - buy soon, they're all discontinued now and getting harder to find.
This is what I was looking at before. Get a PC with HD 4000 so I could play *some* games and have a PS4 as my main gaming machine.
I decided instead to just throw some extra bones at the PC to play anything and wait a few years on the PS4 til its got some worthwhile exclusives and whatnot.
I've read the 4600 is a pretty big jump up from the 4000, too.
well i'm planning to get a graphics card later this year after exams. Are the haswell cpu and its integrated graphics worth it? the motherboards and the cpu itself seem a bit more costly than a ivy bridge setup.
There's no point in doing it if you already have the 3570K. Just wait until you get your GPU. I don't think the difference in graphics would be worth the hassle of tearing your system apart and returning everything then getting new stuff.
nah of course I wouldn't haha, was just curious. on a side note, discovered that during probably manufacturing or something the cable for the front fan for my shinobi window got squashed and deformed, so I only have my rear fan. what the hell. It isn't even worth the fuel to go back to the store which is all the way across the city to get a replacement, pisses me off so much.
More_Badass
Member
I was browsing for a new laptop.
Which has the best specs for gaming?
Acer v5 15.6"
- $449.50/699.99
- Windows 8
- Pentium Core i3
- 4-6GB of Ram
- NVIDIA GeForce GT
Toshiba L75D-A7383 17.3"
- $429.99/549.99
- Windows 8
- AMD A4
- 6GB of Ram
- AMD Radeon HD 8330
HD Pavilion 17"
- $499.99/639.99
- Windows 8
- Intel Core i3
- 6GB of Ram
- Intel HD Graphics 4000
Dell Inspiron 14R 14"
- $699.99/799
- Windows 8
- Intel Core i5
- 6GB of Ram
- ATI Mobility Radeon HD 5470
Samsung ATIV Windows 8 Tablet 11.6"
- $649.99
- Windows 8
- Intel Atom
- PowerVR SGX 545
Toshiba Satellite C855-S5350 15.6"
- $429.99/$479.90
- Windows 8
- Intel Pentium
- 6GB of Ram
- Intel HD Graphics 3000
Toshiba Satellite C55 15.6"
- $499
- Intel Core i3
- Windows 8
- 6GB of Ram
- Intel HD Graphics (multiple GPU)
Which has the best specs for gaming?
Acer v5 15.6"
- $449.50/699.99
- Windows 8
- Pentium Core i3
- 4-6GB of Ram
- NVIDIA GeForce GT
Toshiba L75D-A7383 17.3"
- $429.99/549.99
- Windows 8
- AMD A4
- 6GB of Ram
- AMD Radeon HD 8330
HD Pavilion 17"
- $499.99/639.99
- Windows 8
- Intel Core i3
- 6GB of Ram
- Intel HD Graphics 4000
Dell Inspiron 14R 14"
- $699.99/799
- Windows 8
- Intel Core i5
- 6GB of Ram
- ATI Mobility Radeon HD 5470
Samsung ATIV Windows 8 Tablet 11.6"
- $649.99
- Windows 8
- Intel Atom
- PowerVR SGX 545
Toshiba Satellite C855-S5350 15.6"
- $429.99/$479.90
- Windows 8
- Intel Pentium
- 6GB of Ram
- Intel HD Graphics 3000
Toshiba Satellite C55 15.6"
- $499
- Intel Core i3
- Windows 8
- 6GB of Ram
- Intel HD Graphics (multiple GPU)
Give BitFenix a call
So I built my first ever pc (Haswell based) about 3 weeks ago with a lot of help in this thread. Best thing I ever did, I love the thing so much and I run everything as smooth as butter.
I got a Corsair K70 mechanical keyboard to go along with it. The thing is amazing and totally worth the price as far as I'm concerned. Such a huge upgrade from my Razer keyboard.
I got a Corsair K70 mechanical keyboard to go along with it. The thing is amazing and totally worth the price as far as I'm concerned. Such a huge upgrade from my Razer keyboard.
Well, I guess I'll be the first to say it: PICS!!!!!!!!!
Lizard with a ladder
learnin' with the blacks!
I need some assistance solving a problem that came up recently. There's this loud beeping coming out of my pc speakers when gaming. It's happened twice so far and usually happens when a game is loading up. It causes massive slowdown in the game when it happens. Usually last for about 5 seconds.
I immediately checked my temps. Both CPU and GPU temps are where they should be. Any ideas what might be the issue?
I immediately checked my temps. Both CPU and GPU temps are where they should be. Any ideas what might be the issue?
I only noticed it after I installed everything in though, will I still be able to get a replacement?
Any chance you can go desktop? At $600 desktop will destroy anything there.
Otherwise. The laptop thread will probably be better help. From looking at the specs posted none of them look particularly good for gaming.
I'm at work but good idea. I will get some up this week.
Adry9
Member
Guys help me out here, I though picking a monitor was much easier than a PC but I was so wrong. I'm looking for something no more expensive than 200€ (23"-24") and so far I have these ones:
LG 23EA63V-P
LG Electronics IPS237L
Asus VS239HR
Acer H236HLbmid ZeroFrame IPS
Benq GL2460
Samsung Syncmaster S23B550V
Which one would you recommend? Are they any good?
LG 23EA63V-P
LG Electronics IPS237L
Asus VS239HR
Acer H236HLbmid ZeroFrame IPS
Benq GL2460
Samsung Syncmaster S23B550V
Which one would you recommend? Are they any good?
More_Badass
Member
Portability. Commuting between college and home, different buildings on campus, the bus, going on vacation
And I'm not looking for a dedicated gaming laptop. Just looking for something I can do school work, surf the web, watch Netflix, but this time I actually care about PC gaming.
As long as I can run games like The Forest or Miasmata on medium or just low settings, I'd be happy
Finally upgraded my 5870 that was starting to overheat badly to a 770.
Since I'd just bought an ASUS 144hz monitor, I decided to try out the lightboost functionality. Not entirely sure it's that much better than simply using the monitor at 144hz.
Can say the jump from 3800 to 8000 for FFXIV:ARR at max settings(1080) is awesome. The jump in custom settings was 8kish to 15k(!!!). Batman:AC with everything absolutely maxed was still avg of 115 and a high of 154. Very happy with this 360 dollar card(yay working at TD).
Since I'd just bought an ASUS 144hz monitor, I decided to try out the lightboost functionality. Not entirely sure it's that much better than simply using the monitor at 144hz.
Can say the jump from 3800 to 8000 for FFXIV:ARR at max settings(1080) is awesome. The jump in custom settings was 8kish to 15k(!!!). Batman:AC with everything absolutely maxed was still avg of 115 and a high of 154. Very happy with this 360 dollar card(yay working at TD).
Im setting up a PC for my brother and hes going to need wifi but his current PCI card is getting a spotty signal so Im pricing out some cards for him.
Any suggestions here would be appreciated. Would something like THIS get the job done? I never even heard of TP-Link before but the reviews are good.
Whats has the better options here...USB or PCI-E?
Any suggestions here would be appreciated. Would something like THIS get the job done? I never even heard of TP-Link before but the reviews are good.
Whats has the better options here...USB or PCI-E?
They aren't suggested because they're pretty universally spotty... If you can, use powerline adaptors.
USB with an extension cable so you can tape it to the wall for better reception is one option
PCI-E with an external antenna is another.
But yeah... go wired where you can. Wifi is for laptops and tablets and phones... not for desktops.
Is it a new or older house/apartment?
I'd recommend one of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...E16833704164&gclid=COf_-8bloLgCFdB7QgodRjYAdg
I'd recommend one of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...E16833704164&gclid=COf_-8bloLgCFdB7QgodRjYAdg
Lionel Mandrake
Member
Don't be scared, make sure to put the motherboard stand offs correctly. If you run into any problems post here!
Are you relying on the stock 3570k fan? The hardest thing to do is mount the heat sink to the motherboard. So just make sure you are really really comfortable with the stock fan. In order to upgrade to the hyper 212 you're going to have to take the mother board out and unplug everything. So you should do it now rather than later.
Roland1979
Junior Member
If you order a motherboard will it have the stock heat sink pre-mounted already or are you expected to install it yourself (not that i want to, but if i don't have to take it off and clean up the previous paste-gunk-leftover i wouldn't mind).
ss_lemonade
Member
No, heatsink comes with the cpu. The stock heatsink fan does have thermal paste applied to it already I believe (never bothered to use stock so I'm not sure) so its just a matter of securing it onto the motherboard
No. The heat sink comes with the CPU, not the motherboard. You need to install it yourself.
Edit: beaten like an i3.
ss_lemonade
Member
I probably need to get this sometime in the future. I currently have my phone connected to home wifi and sharing the connection to my pc at the moment. It works, but will suck big time once I start to move things around here and have walls blocking the signal T_T
Good luck. I tried to get a replacement LED for the colossus and went through 8 months of calls and emails asking when they were going to replace it. Kept getting "we will send it next week" every time and then gave up. Good cases but horrible customer service
I currently have 10/1 home internet (yeah, fucking shameful). I am currently using a USB wireless dongle for my desktop. Here are my speed results:
Would one of those powerline kits help me?
I currently have 10/1 home internet (yeah, fucking shameful). I am currently using a USB wireless dongle for my desktop. Here are my speed results:
Would one of those powerline kits help me?
You are getting your rated Internet speed so it won't help for that. Powerline could offer better latency and LAN speeds.
Lionel Mandrake
Member
Alright. It's been relatively smooth sailing so far. I have everything but the GPU mounted in the case, and am in the process of plugging frontal case components into the motherboard.
The problem is both my case's power and reset buttons have a two pin plug and the input on the mobo lists one pin for each. They both have a "GND" input listed next to them and the reset button has a "Dummy" next to it. What am I supposed to do?
The problem is both my case's power and reset buttons have a two pin plug and the input on the mobo lists one pin for each. They both have a "GND" input listed next to them and the reset button has a "Dummy" next to it. What am I supposed to do?
So I sit down to start overclocking for the first time. I launch CPUZ and CPUID Hardware Monitor to look at the default temps, voltage, etc., before overclocking. I start Prime95 and see this:
Does this mean my i5 3570k is already running at ~4.2ghz? Or am I totally reading it wrong?
Does this mean my i5 3570k is already running at ~4.2ghz? Or am I totally reading it wrong?
I don't think so. I mean it's possible I did it by accident. lol.
Roland1979
Junior Member
If you're going to overclock is it best to turn off any turbo modes, or is it easier to have it on and start from there. I also thought turbo mode will only use the full speed when it is asked for it, in other words when under heavy load. If you overclock will it be on full speed all the time or will it use less energy and run at lower speeds when it's not under stress?
I've recently overclocked my 3570k to 4.5ghz ran a Prime95 blend for 12 hours max temps of 65c @ 1.35v(manual voltage) in the bios but it only gets to a maximum of 1.280 according to CpuZ and Coretemp. Now if I set the voltage to 1.3v it just won't OC and I get a bsod (I probably should of found out what type of bsod it was). Is this good or should I try lower the voltage to 1.32 or try offset or just leave it as is?
Got the asus lk from the recommends. Only changed voltage, nultiplier and tprobe to max.
Got the asus lk from the recommends. Only changed voltage, nultiplier and tprobe to max.
What you set the voltage to and what the board actually pushes are usually going to be different depending on the quality of the board.
So yeah, if you BSOD, 99% of the time it's going to be undervolting. Only thing to do really is to bump it up, as you have.
Head of Vengarl
Banned
PC GAF, what is a good budget WiFi receiver? I just realized that I forgot to include one when I was buying parts for my new PC. I say "budget" because I'm moving into a small studio apartment so I don't exactly need that strong of a receiver. I'd like to spend from 20 to 30 USD.
This got some good reviews:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JWMOOI/?tag=neogaf0e-20
But I respect the knowledge on here so I'll wait for your input on what brands I should go for.
This got some good reviews:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JWMOOI/?tag=neogaf0e-20
But I respect the knowledge on here so I'll wait for your input on what brands I should go for.
SuicideUZI
Member
I have the Corsair 350D case with the Corsair H60 Cooler and right now I have it setup so that it is blowing air into the case through the radiator in a push/pull configuration because corsair recommends doing it that way and then I have another fan on top that exhausts air out of the case. I was just wondering if this was the best way to do it or would it be better reversing the fans? I suppose it would probably make an insignificant difference either way if i had to guess. here is a crude diagram of how its setup:
Get a full tower. Make sure it has at least front and rear fans. Something with great airflow to keep components cool. Amount of drive bays is really an opinion. I prefer more so I can plop more drives when needed. Plenty of room for a big GPU, a big PSU. As for a side fan, eh. You can get one if you want to try it out, but from my experience, it doesn't really help with cooling, as it disrupts proper airflow. Make sure that the case has enough room on the other side-panel for cable management. You want to keep the clutter out of the main-space so there is proper airflow. Also, make sure it has enough expansion slots in the rear.
I have an NZXT Phantom full tower case, in case you wanted to know.
Take a look at what is in the OP. Most don't need anything big, a mid tower is more than enough. Just need something that will keep things cool enough, quiet and fit everything inside. The OP has the best for each price range.
Full tower is overkill for most people with just a single card, no water etc.
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