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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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LegoDad

Member
Get the Steelseries Rival. Right now, there is no mouse that is better. Zero interpolation, zero acceleration, amazing ergonomics. It's the best mouse, by a really long mile.

The M65 has some fairly heavy interpolation. If you open up paint with it, and try to draw a circle as fast as you can, it actually ends up being a square.

Thanks, think you sold me.
 

jd78

Neo Member
seems these are slow as well? or are they fine?

Can't speak to that specific brand/model, but was posting it as an example of what to look for (i.e. DDR3 1600). You could probably look at some examples from the OP or look at Newegg since it has a better search system.
 

Pegasus Actual

Gold Member
So, what would be a good stop-gap GPU for my Core i7 930 (which for some reason doesn't overclock all that well) and SLI GTX 460? The SLI is a hassle since I run 3 monitors but can't do both at the same time. I'm thinking an upgrade might be in order to hold me over until Star Citizen hits at which point I will probably build a whole new rig with the latest and greatest. Any thoughts? No particular budget, just something that won't be hampered by my CPU or anything along those lines. 1920x1200 screen but I usually just do 1080p letterboxed.
 
Get the Steelseries Rival. Right now, there is no mouse that is better. Zero interpolation, zero acceleration, amazing ergonomics. It's the best mouse, by a really long mile.

The M65 has some fairly heavy interpolation. If you open up paint with it, and try to draw a circle as fast as you can, it actually ends up being a square.

Came in this thread also looking for a mouse recommendation, and your post just made Steelseries a sale. :p

I originally was looking at the Sensei the other day, but got turned off when I realized it had buttons on both the left and right sides of the mouse (the way I grip mice, I knew I would always be clicking the buttons on the right side -- I could turn them off, but it would still be annoying). Glad to see that the Rival is made for right handers, it looks solid so I'll be picking it up!

I currently have a Razer Naga Hex. It was a fine mouse for its time, but the reliability on it just leaves something to be desired. The middle mouse button has a flaky connection now, which makes web browsing annoying as hell. "Oh, you just wanted to close one tab? Well how about we close 3 instead really fast?" Grrr. I'm excited for the Steelseries though. I've heard nothing but good things about them in the last few months.

*Edit*
So, what would be a good stop-gap GPU for my Core i7 930 (which for some reason doesn't overclock all that well) and SLI GTX 460? The SLI is a hassle since I run 3 monitors but can't do both at the same time. I'm thinking an upgrade might be in order to hold me over until Star Citizen hits at which point I will probably build a whole new rig with the latest and greatest. Any thoughts? No particular budget, just something that won't be hampered by my CPU or anything along those lines. 1920x1200 screen but I usually just do 1080p letterboxed.

I would look into a 770, 780 or 780ti depending on budget.
 
Building a new PC now. I have a dual core machine at home, so I was thinking of just stripping it out and using the case and power supply. is this a good idea? I got a good brand 750 watt PSU in there but it is old! from around the time when Mass Effect was released for PC.

just trying to save some money

oh and that computer reboots after 2 seconds! I hope the psu is still working :/
 

pilferk

Neo Member
Sniper...just look at the PSU. Make sure it has 6 pin(or 6pin+2, if you're going high end for graphics) PCI-E leads, SATA power leads, and ATX standard hook ups (preferably 20+4 pin to give you options, and 8pin CPU). If it has all that stuff, you should be good to go.

You might miss out on USB 3.0 ports on the front of your case, or that kind of stuff. But if you like the case, and the PSU "works" with newer components...nothing to stop you from reusing it all.
 
Sniper...just look at the PSU. Make sure it has 6 pin(or 6pin+2, if you're going high end for graphics) PCI-E leads, SATA power leads, and ATX standard hook ups (preferably 20+4 pin to give you options, and 8pin CPU). If it has all that stuff, you should be good to go.

You might miss out on USB 3.0 ports on the front of your case, or that kind of stuff. But if you like the case, and the PSU "works" with newer components...nothing to stop you from reusing it all.

ya I already have a 7970. all i need is a new cpu (going with an i5 4670k), new mobo, 8 gb ram and a cpu cooler. going to stick with a HDD and buy a ssd later. Should cost about $500 :)

i will check the pins tonight
 

pilferk

Neo Member
ya I already have a 7970. all i need is a new cpu (going with an i5 4670k), new mobo, 8 gb ram and a cpu cooler. going to stick with a HDD and buy a ssd later. Should cost about $500 :)

i will check the pins tonight

Just remember that, if you're moving your HDD over, you'll need to "reactivate" windows with your activation key (and, potentially, MS Office if you have it) because of the myriad of hardware changes. You'll also want to "generalize" Win 7 so it moves over better (getting rid of all the vendor drivers and using the standard drivers, instead). There's a sys util that will basically do it for you.

If you have a Windows OEM key (and not retail key)...it could be problematic. I'm working around that, now.
 
Get the Steelseries Rival. Right now, there is no mouse that is better. Zero interpolation, zero acceleration, amazing ergonomics. It's the best mouse, by a really long mile.

The M65 has some fairly heavy interpolation. If you open up paint with it, and try to draw a circle as fast as you can, it actually ends up being a square.

The ergonomics of it aren't without flaw. It's ambidextrous by design and as a result it's nowhere near the most comfortable high end mouse on the market. I own a sensei and while the actual performance is as good as it gets I'm thinking about a g700 for a high performance mouse that feels better to use .
 

mkenyon

Banned
The ergonomics of it aren't without flaw. It's ambidextrous by design and as a result it's nowhere near the most comfortable high end mouse on the market. I own a sensei and while the actual performance is as good as it gets I'm thinking about a g700 for a high performance mouse that feels better to use .
Reread my post.
 
Just remember that, if you're moving your HDD over, you'll need to "reactivate" windows with your activation key (and, potentially, MS Office if you have it) because of the myriad of hardware changes. You'll also want to "generalize" Win 7 so it moves over better (getting rid of all the vendor drivers and using the standard drivers, instead). There's a sys util that will basically do it for you.

If you have a Windows OEM key (and not retail key)...it could be problematic. I'm working around that, now.
yea thnx for the adivce
 

Gumbie

Member
You guys think it's worth selling my two Gigabyte Windforce 2GB 770s in favor of going with a single card solution like a 780ti with more memory? I'm not a huge fan of sli setups and would rather have a single card solution. If I sell both I'm looking at paying another $60-$70 bucks to get a 780ti. Is there any info on when the high end maxwells will be coming out?
 

Smokey

Member
You guys think it's worth selling my two Gigabyte Windforce 2GB 770s in favor of going with a single card solution like a 780ti with more memory? I'm not a huge fan of sli setups and would rather have a single card solution. If I sell both I'm looking at paying another $60-$70 bucks to get a 780ti. Is there any info on when the high end maxwells will be coming out?

Q3 at the earliest.

You would lose brute power going to the Ti, but you'd make up for that in VRAM and be hassle free when it comes to gaming. For $70 I'd do it.
 

Azzurri

Member
You guys think it's worth selling my two Gigabyte Windforce 2GB 770s in favor of going with a single card solution like a 780ti with more memory? I'm not a huge fan of sli setups and would rather have a single card solution. If I sell both I'm looking at paying another $60-$70 bucks to get a 780ti. Is there any info on when the high end maxwells will be coming out?

The 790 is suppose to be released soon, but it just might be a rumor.
 

AutoGibbon

Neo Member
Alright, Iv'e been persuaded to post my proposed build here to see if the pro's can hand down some of their wisdom. As follows:

Already purchased:
Define R4 White case
Logitech M700 board+mouse bundle
Creative Soundblaster tactic3d Wrath headset.​


Planned purchases:
Intel i5 4670k
MSI Twin Frozr GTX 770
Gigabyte Z87-HD3 mobo
1* 8GB Corsair Vengeance low profile 1600mhz
1TB WD blue hdd
2* Phanteks PH-F140HP case fans​

Now, as for the PSU, I had been looking at the Seasonic G650 but the only UK seller I know of hasn't had it in stock for months. Could anyone recommend a good PSU (80plsu bronze, I don't NEED any better than that but I wouldn't complain) for around the same price or less? I'd gladly pay a little less but I'm aware that even a hybrid modular will still cost a bit. ;^)
 

jarosh

Member
Just got a warning on a reboot that my CPU had apparently overheated... News to me, haven't actually had a crash or anything. Looking at temps on CPUID, just after startup the cores were sitting at 98°C! Now slowly dropped down to 62°C idling. Still pretty hot though. And it looks like it does climb to 90°+ on occasion while under load. No idea when this thing started running so hot. I have an Alpine 11 GT on my i5 and it seems to be working just fine. Haven't messed with the system in a long time, either. There's only a passive GPU in this thing that shouldn't really ever get too hot, no gaming or anything on this machine.

Any pointers as to what could be causing this or what I could do to improve the situation?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Just got a warning on a reboot that my CPU had apparently overheated... News to me, haven't actually had a crash or anything. Looking at temps on CPUID, just after startup the cores were sitting at 98°C! Now slowly dropped down to 62°C idling. Still pretty hot though. And it looks like it does climb to 90°+ on occasion while under load. No idea when this thing started running so hot. I have an Alpine 11 GT on my i5 and it seems to be working just fine. Haven't messed with the system in a long time, either. There's only a passive GPU in this thing that shouldn't really ever get too hot, no gaming or anything on this machine.

Any pointers as to what could be causing this or what I could do to improve the situation?
Remount your CPU cooler.
 

appaws

Banned
Get the Steelseries Rival. Right now, there is no mouse that is better. Zero interpolation, zero acceleration, amazing ergonomics. It's the best mouse, by a really long mile.

The M65 has some fairly heavy interpolation. If you open up paint with it, and try to draw a circle as fast as you can, it actually ends up being a square.

I don't know from interpolation. I have the M65 and I like it a lot. I am a palmer and I have big hands. You know what that means.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I've had one as well, and I was pretty impressed with it, which is why I put it in the OP. But really, there literally is no better mouse than the Rival right now. It doesn't make the M65 worse, as the sensor in the M65 was the best on the market prior to the Rival releasing. It's the same one as the Sensei, but with slightly worse firmware.
 

Ra1den

Member
Is there any reason my perfectly working new build would not give me a POST beep?

Everything is working fine, but I've never gotten a POST beep before, and I've now tried two different speakers.
 

SummitAve

Banned
Dumb question that my mobo manual couldn't answer..... I've got a P8Z77-I DELUXE and I was curious about whether or not I should have 1, both, or none of the antennas connected. Internet seems to work fine without them.
 

TheBear

Member
What's the state of graphics card at the moment? Kind of want to buy a non-ref 290, will that last me another 3-4 years with my i5 4xxx?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Is there any reason my perfectly working new build would not give me a POST beep?

Everything is working fine, but I've never gotten a POST beep before, and I've now tried two different speakers.
The internal speaker? There's a little header, most likely, that a tiny adapter needs to be attached to.
Dumb question that my mobo manual couldn't answer..... I've got a P8Z77-I DELUXE and I was curious about whether or not I should have 1, both, or none of the antennas connected. Internet seems to work fine without them.
They'll improve reception.
What's the state of graphics card at the moment? Kind of want to buy a non-ref 290, will that last me another 3-4 years with my i5 4xxx?
Depends on your resolution, accepted frame rate, and graphic settings. But, yes. They're crazy overpriced in the US at the moment, but seem to be fairly steady in Europe.
 
Anyone got an opinion on the Dell P2414H monitor? Still deciding on just buying an IPS now or waiting to see what the colors are like on some gsync monitors.
 

Bleepey

Member
I swear browsing for PC parts for the PC I plan to build is addictive. I think I kinda see how graphic card numbering works as well as realised how truly awful graphics card and motherboard art is. So far i am thinking, (I am on my phone and going from memory)
I am thinking of an amd motherboard that's £40
Amd 8350 4ghz £90-100
A gtx 650 or hd7770 £70-90. I don't know whatever is the best thing I can get for a £60-110 budget
Ram £40ish for 8gb Ddr3
Case and 500 w PSU £30
Windows key £25

I don't wanna spend more than £250-£310. I hope I can get something that can be easily upgraded, similarly powered to the ps4, kinda future proof. What do you think of my expectations and sample build?
 

kharma45

Member
I swear browsing for PC parts for the PC I plan to build is addictive. I think I kinda see how graphic card numbering works as well as realised how truly awful graphics card and motherboard art is. So far i am thinking, (I am on my phone and going from memory)
I am thinking of an amd motherboard that's £40
Amd 8350 4ghz £90-100
A gtx 650 or hd7770 £70-90. I don't know whatever is the best thing I can get for a £60-110 budget
Ram £40ish for 8gb Ddr3
Case and 500 w PSU £30
Windows key £25

I don't wanna spend more than £250-£310. I hope I can get something that can be easily upgraded, similarly powered to the ps4, kinda future proof. What do you think of my expectations and sample build?

A £40 mobo and that CPU is not a good idea, nor is a case and PSU for that combined price.

If you're looking for an upgrade pathway you don't want to go AMD on the CPU front. AM3+ is dead.
 

dimb

Bjergsen is the greatest midlane in the world
I want to keep using the same HDD I've had for a few years and transplant it into a new machine. Are there concerns I should have about moving it into a new machine, particularly in regards to changing chipsets?
 

Bleepey

Member
A £40 mobo and that CPU is not a good idea, nor is a case and PSU for that combined price.

If you're looking for an upgrade pathway you don't want to go AMD on the CPU front. AM3+ is dead.

I never planned to upgrade the CPU, just the gpu and Ram if necessary. Should I go for a I5 processor, a shitty integrated graphics card and wait till bitcoins crash further allowing me to pick up excess graphics cards ultra cheap?
 

KTT

Member
$210: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 Superclocked EDIT: This one's gone

$200: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 4GB

From evga b stock... They'll probably be OOS soon, though. Just a heads up!

I want to keep using the same HDD I've had for a few years and transplant it into a new machine. Are there concerns I should have about moving it into a new machine, particularly in regards to changing chipsets?

Nope. It'll still go into your motherboard's SATA port and be powered by your PSU's SATA power connector.
 

kharma45

Member
I never planned to upgrade the CPU, just the gpu and Ram if necessary. Should I go for a I5 processor, a shitty integrated graphics card and wait till bitcoins crash further allowing me to pick up excess graphics cards ultra cheap?

I don''t know if that'll really happen in the UK as our prices never inflated for this coin boom.
 

Coldsnap

Member
If you're doing minor video editing, for youtube channels and stuff do you need a dedicated video card? Or will on board graphics suffice. Building a PC for a friend.

And what's the AMD vs Intel like on a build around $500? I always buy Intel but money is usually not a factor.
 

KTT

Member
If you're doing minor video editing, for youtube channels and stuff do you need a dedicated video card? Or will on board graphics suffice. Building a PC for a friend.

And what's the AMD vs Intel like on a build around $500? I always buy Intel but money is usually not a factor.

You're gonna want to go Intel. As far as video editing, he can probably get away with using onboard graphics... however, a sub-$100 video card would improve overall performance and he'd be able to do much more with just a cheap video card instead of no video card.
 

Coldsnap

Member
You're gonna want to go Intel. As far as video editing, he can probably get away with using onboard graphics... however, a sub-$100 video card would improve overall performance and he'd be able to do much more with just a cheap video card instead of no video card.

So what is the best sub $100 card?

I've been trying to use the guide but I think what I need is a bit different from Haz guide. Aiming for around $500 without windows, doesn't need to be overclocked capable.
 

pilferk

Neo Member
I want to keep using the same HDD I've had for a few years and transplant it into a new machine. Are there concerns I should have about moving it into a new machine, particularly in regards to changing chipsets?

Just realize that, in the move, you may have to re activate windows ( with your activation key) and ms office (if you have it).

If your version of windows was an oem version...you may have to finagle with ms(ymmv) to get them to activate, or buy a new key (reddit is the fav option in this thread to do so).
 

Arkanius

Member
I managed to trade my GPU that was artifacting for a new one.
Yeah, the performance is even better now (Apparently, the faulty one wasn't even giving me the full power), the fan works consistently better, and no artifacts anywhere :)
 

-COOLIO-

The Everyman
So what is the best sub $100 card?

I've been trying to use the guide but I think what I need is a bit different from Haz guide. Aiming for around $500 without windows, doesn't need to be overclocked capable.

the 750ti is 150 but you might save like 30 bucks on the psu since you can go pretty low with one. like around 350 watts.

edit: im reading 400 watts on the web, so maybe not.
 

Coldsnap

Member
the 750ti is 150 but you might save like 30 bucks on the psu since you can go pretty low with one. like around 350 watts.

edit: im reading 400 watts on the web, so maybe not.

Gotcha, I'm thinking a 750ti would even be over kill. Even a GTX 650. What's under that price wise?
 
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