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[kharma45]

Kinda pleased with my first build - but how bad is it in reality? ;-)

CPU: Intel i5 4670K (194,25 € @ mindfactory.de)
MoBo: Biostar HI-FI Z87X 3D (118,29 € @ mindfactory.de)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright True Spirit 120 M BW (24,13 € @ mindfactory.de)
GPU: 2048MB Asus GeForce GTX 770 (276,88 € @ mindfactory.de)
RAM: 8GB Kingston HyperX Beast DDR3-1600 (69,94 € @ mindfactory.de)
HDD: 1000GB WD Black WD1003FZEX 64MB 3.5" (8.9cm) SATA 6Gb/s (67,24 € @ mindfactory.de)
SSD: 256GB Samsung 830 series (“recycled” from my current Notebook)
Optical Drive: Asus BC-12D2HT (54,90 @ mindfactory.de)
PSU: Be quiet! Pure Power L8 600W (65,82 € @ mindfactory.de)
Case: Corsair Graphite 230T Midi Tower (68,97 € @ mindfactory.de)
Total: 940,42 €

Anything to improve or any major flaws in my built? Without financially ruining me ofc. ;-)

Swap to the modular Be Quiet! L8, you don't need the extra power that the 600w provides and you'll appreciate the modular cables http://www.mindfactory.de/product_i...re-Power-L8-CM-Modular-80--Bronze_757838.html

Do you really need the BR drive?

Swap your HDD to this and save €20 http://www.mindfactory.de/product_i...X-64MB-3-5Zoll--8-9cm--SATA-6Gb-s_806194.html

 

[mkenyon]

WD Blacks are much more reliable though. Figured if someone included one, they know why they bought it.

 

[LeGourmand]

http://www.newegg.ca/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=ShellShocker-_-20-721-107-_-02262014_1

NewEgg CANADA Shell Shocker today - Kingston SSDNOW 128gig for $70.

Thanks, just bought this for the new computer for my mom. I should start looking at parts, she asked me a week ago....

 

[Altima]

This is gonna be better.

CORE I5 4670K
GIGABYTE Z87N-WIFI
LEADTEK GTX770
WD 1 TB SATA III 64MB BLUE 3-Y
KINGSTON HYPER-X (K2) 8GB (4x2) 1600 MHz CL 9 D. X2/Blue/Beast
LG 24X SATA-Interface
Seasonic M12 II Bronze 620W
Corsair 250D

- About RAM

My mobo support only 1333/1600 but my friend said that I should use 2400 ram because of something that I cannot understand. He said about X.M.P. but I do not know what it is. Will it gonna work ? and Should I buy 2400 bus RAM ?

 

[Granadier]

You should be fine with DDR3-1600 RAM.
I could be wrong, but I think you should avoid the Kingston 1600 RAM unless it specifies that it runs at 1.5v.
Most I've seen are running at 1.65v in order to achieve 1600 status.

 

[Locke Lamora]

Swap to the modular Be Quiet! L8, you don't need the extra power that the 600w provides and you'll appreciate the modular cables http://www.mindfactory.de/product_i...re-Power-L8-CM-Modular-80--Bronze_757838.html

Thanks, looks nice.

Do you really need the BR drive?

Well, that's true. I ripped a BD once, but that doesn't justify the 55 Euros. I still could use my Notebook if I have to rip a BD. Okay, changed from a fancy BR to an usual CD/ DVD drive für 16 Euros.

Swap your HDD to this and save €20 http://www.mindfactory.de/product_i...X-64MB-3-5Zoll--8-9cm--SATA-6Gb-s_806194.html

WD Blacks are much more reliable though. Figured if someone included one, they know why they bought it.

Never expect that I know what I'm doing. ;-p
But: OS and games will be on my SSD. The HDD will be (mostly) for movies, tv shows etc. Do I need the most reliable HDD then? There won't be any constant reading & writing on my HDD except FF/IE/Chrome Cache and Temp files which I relocate from my SSD to the HDD.

 

[mkenyon]

Nah, WD Blue will work fine for that.

Blacks would be for semi-pro multimedia creation, where you need that reliability.

 

[Geneijin]

Two questions.

Could I use a spare SATA power cable from a Corsair CX-500 for my PSU (Antec BP550)? If not, am I stuck calling Antec to order another?

 

[C.Dark.DN]

Thanks for recommending the Steelseries Rival in the OP. I like it a lot so fat.

 

[cackhyena]

Wondering if any of you guys can help me with an issue. I only play SF4 on PC now. Up until the other day it's always worked fine. Now it will not let me back out to desktop no matter what I try, so I'm having to just hit the power button on my PC. It's frustrating as shit. Is there anything I should be looking for, in game or on my PC for the cause?

 

[Winternet]

My latest rig: (no OC intended)

CPU: Intel Core i5 4670
CPU Cooler: Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev 2
MB: Gigabyte GA-H87-HD3
CASE: Fractal Design Define R4
RAM: Crucial 16GB DDR3 1600Mhz (8GB x2)
GPU: Gigabyte Geforce GTX780 Ti 3GB
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 1TB
SSD: Samsung SSD 256G Sata3 840 PRO Series
PSU: FSP RAIDER 650W
Optical Drive: LG DVD-RW x22 Dual Layer Sata Black

 

[Nostremitus]

What are the current expectations for Carrizo and Excavator?

 

[kharma45]

My latest rig: (no OC intended)

CPU: Intel Core i5 4670
CPU Cooler: Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev 2
MB: Gigabyte GA-H87-HD3
CASE: Fractal Design Define R4
RAM: Crucial 16GB DDR3 1600Mhz (8GB x2)
GPU: Gigabyte Geforce GTX780 Ti 3GB
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 1TB
SSD: Samsung SSD 256G Sata3 840 PRO Series
PSU: FSP RAIDER 650W
Optical Drive: LG DVD-RW x22 Dual Layer Sata Black

You don't need that cooler then.

I would say there is no point in getting something as good as a 780 Ti and not looking in to over clocking. It's so easy now. All you need is a K CPU and a Z mobo.

 

[mkenyon]

What are the current expectations for Carizzo and Excavator?

One shouldn't have any. Way too far out to have anything remotely concrete.

 

[kakashi08]

Just ordered the "Gigabyte 780 ghz Edition". Can't wait till it comes innnn

Edit: Running my PC on mobo via hdmi. Can't play a game till it comes in

 

[Nostremitus]

One shouldn't have any. Way too far out to have anything remotely concrete.

Gotcha, thanks.

 

[kennah]

My 670 has been sitting on my desk for a week. Was using it to test ram in another motherboard and haven't had time to reinstall it since

 

[LiquidMetal14]

Parts are coming in for the build I'm putting together for a friend.

 

[jarosh]

The ones in the OP are the best value.

CM Hyper TX4/212 Evo is great for a vast majority of users.

As I'd mentioned in a previous post, I was more looking for a really quiet one, price is secondary. I think I'll probably go with one of the be quiet ones.

 

[kennah]

It's like a perfect storm of what not to buy

I'm sure it'll be fine for whatever they need it for!


jarosh - those are quiet ones. And if they're still too loud, all you need to do is switch the fans out to something like Noctua 120mm or Corsair SP120s

 

[LiquidMetal14]

It's like a perfect storm of what not to buy

I'm sure it'll be fine for whatever they need it for!


jarosh - those are quiet ones. And if they're still too loud, all you need to do is switch the fans out to something like Noctua 120mm or Corsair SP120s

Budget was an issue. Only thing that's missing is the HDD, GPU, and MB.

Socket AM3+ is good since the CPU can be upgraded to a better part if he should choose to.

 

[Granadier]

It's like a perfect storm of what not to buy

I'm sure it'll be fine for whatever they need it for!


jarosh - those are quiet ones. And if they're still too loud, all you need to do is switch the fans out to something like Noctua 120mm or Corsair SP120s

I don't see any LED strips or glowing fans though.

 

[mkenyon]

As I'd mentioned in a previous post, I was more looking for a really quiet one, price is secondary. I think I'll probably go with one of the be quiet ones.

Those heatsinks are really quiet. All you need to do is put a max limit on the fan speed. Even if you did not do that, they will still be much more quiet than your GPU.

Socket AM3+ is good since the CPU can be upgraded to a better part if he should choose to.

i3 > 6300
i5 > 8350

AM3+ is likely a dead socket, and the best part to upgrade to (8350) even gets beat by i3s in some cases.

Bad call man.

 

[LiquidMetal14]

Those heatsinks are really quiet. All you need to do is put a max limit on the fan speed. Even if you did not do that, they will still be much more quiet than your GPU.

i3 > 6300
i5 > 8350

AM3+ is likely a dead socket, and the best part to upgrade to (8350) even gets beat by i3s in some cases.

Bad call man.

If the budget was more free then I might have gone higher but I cut on some things in favor of others. I built a nicer rig for a family member last year that was with less "compromises". It is what it is.

 

[NoRéN]

My 670 has been sitting on my desk for a week. Was using it to test ram in another motherboard and haven't had time to reinstall it since

You monster!

 

[mkenyon]

But an i3 + B85 is the same price as a 6300 + AM3+. Maybe even less, depending on the motherboard.

 

[LiquidMetal14]

But an i3 + B85 is the same price as a 6300 + AM3+. Maybe even less, depending on the motherboard.

Rig isn't put together yet so I might run those options by him if he sees if fit.

 

[kennah]

You monster!

BL2 plays JUST FINE on my 2600K and Intel HD3000.

 

[mkenyon]

Rig isn't put together yet so I might run those options by him if he sees if fit.

You might also consider picking up some used stuff from GAF B/S/T, HardOCP, or Overclock.net.

 

[Bii]

Parts are coming in for the build I'm putting together for a friend.

Be sure to keep us posted; I'm really diggin that Rosewill case.

I should probably post pics soon; I nearly have all the parts I need to begin my build.

 

[Speevy]

I'm the guy, first gaming PC and all.

Decided to go with an i5 instead, so you guys can stop beating up Liquidmetal14.

 

[Geneijin]

Just got a Xonar DXG with latest Win8.1 drivers but the maximum volume seems super low, even after tweaks to the settings for the sound card. Should I look into investing in an external headphone amp/DAC? If so, what do you guys recommend? (I'm into music and games on my PC, but don't know too much about amps yet. )

Are you plugging your headphone in the rear port or front panel?
Have you tried listening through both ports and ascertain there are no volume differences?
What headphone are you using?
What tweaks have you done exactly? Did you tamper with the master volume on the Xonar DGX (the default might be around 76) and your Windows volume too?
Have you tried updating or getting the latest audio drivers to see if any changes occur?

 

[mkenyon]

I'm the guy, first gaming PC and all.

Decided to go with an i5 instead, so you guys can stop beating up Liquidmetal14.

I'll stop when my fists are well and finished. More punching necessary.

Spoiler

good pick, but really, the i3 is great for gaming too at the same price of the 6300

 

[Stop It]

I'm the guy, first gaming PC and all.

Decided to go with an i5 instead, so you guys can stop beating up Liquidmetal14.

But it's so fun!

Spoiler

I have been advising him on/off for a while on PC stuff so he wouldn't mind me poking fun

CPU fun aside, I hope you enjoy your new rig when it's built. While he isn't looking just swipe one of his 780ti's, he wont notice!

 

[Gaz_RB]

That feel when you've bought everything and it's shipping and you have nothing to do but wait

 

[jarosh]

Those heatsinks are really quiet. All you need to do is put a max limit on the fan speed. Even if you did not do that, they will still be much more quiet than your GPU.

Doubt that, my GPU is passively cooled. Not a gaming system

The Xigmatek is not available here at all and the CM and Corsair ones from the OP are too loud, if reviews are to be believed...

jarosh - those are quiet ones. And if they're still too loud, all you need to do is switch the fans out to something like Noctua 120mm or Corsair SP120s

I think I'm actually gonna get a complete Noctua heatsink, period!

 

[daycru]

Your Current Specs: CPU / RAM / Motherboard / GPU (Graphics) / PSU (Power Supply) / Case / HDD (Hard Drive). Throwing this obsolete trash in a closet, doesn't matter.

Budget: 800-900 USA

Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming 5 , Gaming 5, Emulation (PS2/Wii) 5,
Video Editing 5, Streaming games in HD 3, 3D/Model work (and what program) 1, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) 5.

Monitor Resolution: I will be playing games on a 47" 1080p television. My monitor is 1920 x 1080.

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I want to run last gen games in amazing quality and be able to handle next gen multiplats as well as they look on console. I need Fallout 4.

Looking to reuse any parts?: No

When will you build?: I want to have my list of parts to order by the end of the week.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe?

 

[kharma45]

Your Current Specs: CPU / RAM / Motherboard / GPU (Graphics) / PSU (Power Supply) / Case / HDD (Hard Drive). Throwing this obsolete trash in a closet, doesn't matter.

Budget: 800-900 USA

Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming 5 , Gaming 5, Emulation (PS2/Wii) 5,
Video Editing 5, Streaming games in HD 3, 3D/Model work (and what program) 1, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) 5.

Monitor Resolution: I will be playing games on a 47" 1080p television. My monitor is 1920 x 1080.

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I want to run last gen games in amazing quality and be able to handle next gen multiplats as well as they look on console. I need Fallout 4.

Looking to reuse any parts?: No

When will you build?: I want to have my list of parts to order by the end of the week.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe?

Do you live near a Micro Center?

 

[Seanspeed]

Are you plugging your headphone in the rear port or front panel?
Have you tried listening through both ports and ascertain there are no volume differences?
What headphone are you using?
What tweaks have you done exactly? Did you tamper with the master volume on the Xonar DGX (the default might be around 76) and your Windows volume too?
Have you tried updating or getting the latest audio drivers to see if any changes occur?

Good catch, I missed that post.

This is a common problem with the DGX if plugged into the front panel. If this isn't the case and you're plugged straight into the sound card at the rear:

It took me a bit of playing around with to find good settings. Biggest one is obviously clicking the little native American axe symbol(don't know what the fuck its supposed to be) next to the Audio Out category(with Headphone chosen obviously) under the 'Main' category of options. Choose Pro-gaming mode(32-64ohms) regardless of whether you've got super cheap headphones or not. If you've got a nice pair, you bump it up to the top choice(64ohm+). You're really not gonna hurt anything by doing this and it adds a ton of volume, along with a healthy dose of clarity if your headphones are designed for it.

You can then(totally optionally) check Dolby Headphone and 7.1 surround for extra volume and speaker staging while you game, but absolutely turn this off for music, cuz it'll give it an awful, awful reverb quality.

 

[LiquidMetal14]

I feel like I'm at the Dean Martin celebrity roast here lol

 

[kennah]

I feel like I'm at the Dean Martin celebrity roast here lol

Leave cables everywhere in the completed pics.

 

[mkenyon]

I feel like I'm at the Dean Martin celebrity roast here lol

No worries, I only pushed the issue as it was still in process and I know you'd hear reason

 

[LiquidMetal14]

No worries, I only pushed the issue as it was still in process and I know you'd hear reason

I appreciate it and Speevy appreciates it more as he made the call to go higher on the budget. Thanks for all the advice.

I would have advised something similar if the constraints weren't as tight but luckily he gets to have something better.

 

[daycru]

Do you live near a Micro Center?

Not really, closest is an hour+ away.

 

[Lexxism]

So I can get a MSI GTX 760 for 262 CAD(235 USD). I guess that's a good deal?

 

[kharma45]

Not really, closest is an hour+ away.

Damn. See for the tasks you're looking to do an i7 and 16GB of RAM is ideal, but it costs. I had been playing with something along the lines of this but it goes over budget by $60 http://pcpartpicker.com/p/30CE4 and you're not going to be able to OC (another $30) and there is no SSD.

 

[KTT]

So I can get a MSI GTX 760 for 262 CAD(235 USD). I guess that's a good deal?

Pretty good deal if it's new.

 

[daycru]

Damn. See for the tasks you're looking to do an i7 and 16GB of RAM is ideal, but it costs. I had been playing with something along the lines of this but it goes over budget by $60 http://pcpartpicker.com/p/30CE4 and you're not going to be able to OC (another $30) and there is no SSD.

Thanks, man. I'll play around with that site. Really want an SSD.

 

[kharma45]

Thanks, man. I'll play around with that site. Really want an SSD.

Talking $75 for the cheapest good one atm, the 120GB Crucial M500.

 

[daycru]

Pretty good deal if it's new.



Are you ever in that area? You can save a LOT of money by buying your CPU and mobo from Microcenter. We're talking about a computer you'll be using for the next couple years at the very least. Maybe consider going a bit out of the way some day to swing by Microcenter?

How much would I be saving? I wouldn't be totally against making the drive, could surely find some other stuff to do to make it worth my time.