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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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KTT

Member
Not really, closest is an hour+ away.

Are you ever in that area? You can save a LOT of money by buying your CPU and mobo from Microcenter. We're talking about a computer you'll be using for the next couple years at the very least. Maybe consider going a bit out of the way some day to swing by Microcenter?

Thanks, man. I'll play around with that site. Really want an SSD.

For example, that 4770K is $250 at MC. And you get $30 off any motherboard purchase with it. Again, just something to consider.

EDIT: Sorry, my edits are messing up the flow of this conversation :p
 

Lime

Member
Any idea when the new i7 processors are released in 2014? I plan on upgrading my computer when Witcher 3 is released.
 

Gaz_RB

Member
Yeah it's brand new.

Okay, before I order this one. I just want to make sure. GTX 760 is the best GPU for 1080p gaming right? 770 is unnecessary unless I can get it the same price of 760?

760 seems to be the sweet spot right now in terms of dollar to performance in a reasonable price range.
 
You should get the best you can afford unless you upgrade frequently. If you can afford a 770, get one. 760 is basically a gimped 670 with higher clocks with the 770 being a souped up 680.

Yeah it's brand new.

Okay, before I order this one. I just want to make sure. GTX 760 is the best GPU for 1080p gaming right? 770 is unnecessary unless I can get it the same price of 760?
 
I've been unbelievably happy with my rig thus far. Thanks to this thread! I made the excellent build in the OP with a few small variations (ROG Hero VI MoBo, 750w psu, an extra HDD in addition to the WD Blue).

Price tag for everything:

MicroCenter: Add 6% tax to these transactions. The best possible deal I could have gotten on the combo since Micro Center gives you a discount on the MoBo in addition to having the cheapest CPU prices.

INTEL CORE I7-4770K - $250
ASUS MAXIMUS VI HERO 1150 ATX - $170

Amazon:
Kinivo BTD-400 Bluetooth 4.0 USB adapter - $15
EVGA GeForce GTX760 SuperClocked w/EVGA ACX Cooler 2GB GDDR5 - $260
WD Blue 1 TB Desktop Hard Drive: 3.5 Inch, 7200 RPM, SATA 6 Gb/s, 64 MB Cache - $60
Asus 24x DVD-RW Serial-ATA Internal OEM Optical Drive DRW-24B1ST - $23
Corsair Vengeance Blue 8 GB (2X4 GB) PC3-12800 1600mHz DDR3 - $90
Corsair CX750 Builder Series ATX 80 PLUS Bronze Certified - $87
Corsair Carbide Series 200R Compact ATX Case - $60

Best Buy:
WD Green 3TB - $90
 

Lexxism

Member
760 seems to be the sweet spot right now in terms of dollar to performance in a reasonable price range.

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. It's US$235 if I convert it from CAD. I guess that's pretty okay price for it.

You should get the best you can afford unless you upgrade frequently. If you can afford a 770, get one. 760 is basically a gimped 670 with higher clocks with the 770 being a souped up 680.

I can afford 770 if I want to but I chose not to. Also, I rarely do an upgrade since this gaming PC I built was the very first one since 2008/09. I'll probably do an upgrade in the next 3-4 years. I guess I'll just stick with 760.
 

KTT

Member
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. It's US$235 if I convert it from CAD. I guess that's pretty okay price for it.



I can afford 770 if I want to but I chose not to. Also, I rarely do an upgrade since this gaming PC I built was the very first one since 2008/09. I'll probably do an upgrade in the next 3-4 years. I guess I'll just stick with 760.

Where are you getting the 760 from? If this is your first upgrade in a few years and you're looking to get an above-average deal on your new video card, you might want to consider waiting a bit for a better sale. $235 is a decent price, but nothing that screams "buy me asap"

You wouldn't be wrong for getting the 760 now. Just throwing my two cents in now that you've talked a little bit more specifically about your situation.

I'm helly jelly

Just picked up my 4670K for $180 :) Microcenter obviuosly charges sales tax on everything bought in-store, though, so just make a mental note to add $10-20 to these prices people brag about. It'll make you a little less jealous haha
 

Bii

Member
Just picked up my 4670K for $180 :) Microcenter obviuosly charges sales tax on everything bought in-store, though, so just make a mental note to add $10-20 to these prices people brag about. It'll make you a little less jealous haha

No Microcenters near me and had to settle on a 4670k for $219...plus tax. :(
 

KTT

Member
No Microcenters near me and had to settle on a 4670k for $219...plus tax. :(

:/

While I've never tried it myself, I've read about people getting Staples to price match somewhat reliably -- even if you live nowhere near a Microcenter.
 

Lexxism

Member
Where are you getting the 760 from? If this is your first upgrade in a few years and you're looking to get an above-average deal on your new video card, you might want to consider waiting a bit for a better sale. $235 is a decent price, but nothing that screams "buy me asap"

You wouldn't be wrong for getting the 760 now. Just throwing my two cents in now that you've talked a little bit more specifically about your situation.

It's on sale at tigerdirect.ca for $270. I can get it as low as $262 if I PM it to another store. 770 is currently 380 CAD(341 USD). I doubt I'll be seeing any discounts like you Americans are getting.
 
So, it seems like Amazon made a mistake. I ordered a Steel Series Rival but got the Sensei instead...

Is there anything that makes the Sensei absolutely superior to the Rival?

I'm thinking of just returning it for the Rival because I want a mouse that's a bit more ergonomic friendly for right-handers, as well as it looks like the thumb buttons on the Rival look a bit larger and easier to hit. I don't think I'll really use the extra buttons on the right side of the mouse, but I am surprised that they aren't as easy to accidentally hit as I thought they would be. Just looking for other opinions though because I haven't actually used the Rival yet.

The sensei does seem like a great mouse though. Materials seems very nice.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Good lord. I don't know what to think about this.

http://dayton.craigslist.org/sys/4351590057.html
Well, going through the part list...

Good: Proc, mobo, fittings, pump, CPU block, fans, SSD

Meh: 580s, PSU, Sound card, rads

Bad: Tubing, coolant (doesn't work with the bay res, and it's probably totally separated, may even clog the blocks)

I'd say it's worth about $1000 because there's no way those two radiators are dissipating the heat from two 580s, so the whole thing runs hot and loud. The entire thing needs to be torn apart, drained, cleaned, and have the 580s replaced.

I'd bet he's hoping he can get a sucker to buy it because it's xtreme as fuck.
So, it seems like Amazon made a mistake. I ordered a Steel Series Rival but got the Sensei instead...

Is there anything that makes the Sensei absolutely superior to the Rival?

I'm thinking of just returning it for the Rival because I want a mouse that's a bit more ergonomic friendly for right-handers, as well as it looks like the thumb buttons on the Rival look a bit larger and easier to hit. I don't think I'll really use the extra buttons on the right side of the mouse, but I am surprised that they aren't as easy to accidentally hit as I thought they would be. Just looking for other opinions though because I haven't actually used the Rival yet.

The sensei does seem like a great mouse though. Materials seems very nice.
The Rival is way better, return it.
 

Buzzman

Banned
Got a 1440p monitor that I managed to overclock to 120hz and now my single GTX 680 feels so pitiful ;_;
Don't have an SLI-capable MB so, any chance for a ~$500 card that can even drive that thing in the near future?
 
The Rival is way better, return it.

As I was typing my question I basically convinced myself, so I'm glad there wasn't anything big that makes the sensei better. Definitely going to be returning it for the rival.

Though, crappily enough it turned out I goofed and I was the one who made the mistake and ordered the sensei and didn't notice I had the wrong one in my cart. >.< Oh well. Seems like Best Buy has it, so I'm going to be picking it up tonight hopefully, assuming I get the in-store pickup mail soon. Really want to get the mouse!
 

M3z_

Member
Got a 1440p monitor that I managed to overclock to 120hz and now my single GTX 680 feels so pitiful ;_;
Don't have an SLI-capable MB so, any chance for a ~$500 card that can even drive that thing in the near future?

If by drive you mean approach 120fps on a consistent basis, no. If you manage your settings you could certainly get a lot of games to run above 60 with a GTX 780 Ti or 290x, both those cards are over $500 though.
 
I don't need a new PC, but I do need a new mouse.

I've been trucking along with a Microsoft Sidewinder X8, but Microsoft stopped that line a while back and the one I have is dying.

sidewinder-x8.jpg


I need a mouse that's wired/wireless, because while I rolled wireless most of the time, I need that plug-and-charge action. I'd love to find a mouse with the Sidewinders adjustable DPI function, but I'm not completely married to it.

Do I just pick up a Razer Mamba and call it a day, or is there a better option out there?
 
I just sort of assumed that with my GTX760 that I would be able to play games like Crysis 3 and Assassin's Creed 3 completely maxed out at 60fps.

I guess I have a lot to learn...
 
Quick question:

4x4 DDR 1600 sticks with low CAS latencies?
2x8 DDR 1600 sticks with higher CAS latencies?

I do not foresee needing to up my RAM anytime this next generation, so it's all down to whether the faster CAS latencies are better, or just using the 2 slots closest to the CPU is faster.
 
I don't need a new PC, but I do need a new mouse.

I've been trucking along with a Microsoft Sidewinder X8, but Microsoft stopped that line a while back and the one I have is dying.

sidewinder-x8.jpg


I need a mouse that's wired/wireless, because while I rolled wireless most of the time, I need that plug-and-charge action. I'd love to find a mouse with the Sidewinders adjustable DPI function, but I'm not completely married to it.

Do I just pick up a Razer Mamba and call it a day, or is there a better option out there?

I'm using a Logitech G700.
Pretty good mouse IMO.
There's adjustable DPI on the fly (and you can set the DPI levels manually in the software), Wired/Wireless, programmable buttons, scroll with two modes ratcheting/free spin...

It even comes with a rechargeable Sanyo Eneloop battery in the package.
 

Geneijin

Member
Apologies for the dumb question, but this is most likely a RAM issue, right? I've gotten a BCCode 1e and 1A today. I'm not really looking forward to troubleshooting individual components... Gonna swap the RAM with my old 4 GB tomorrow as it's late right now. Thanks in advance.

Edit: Oh, says it could possible be a Realtek driver.

Edit2: So after wasting my night and sleep, I've come to the conclusion it was related to this virus. I pray that was it and my computer is all fine and dandy right now.

On Thu 2/27/2014 6:38:44 AM GMT your computer crashed
crash dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\022614-6021-01.dmp
This was probably caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe (nt+0x75B80)
Bugcheck code: 0x1A (0x41201, 0xFFFFF6800002BAE0, 0xEC100000D3FBB867, 0xFFFFFA8007247190)
Error: MEMORY_MANAGEMENT
file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: NT Kernel & System
Bug check description: This indicates that a severe memory management error occurred.
This might be a case of memory corruption. More often memory corruption happens because of software errors in buggy drivers, not because of faulty RAM modules.
The crash took place in the Windows kernel. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver that cannot be identified at this time.

Good catch, I missed that post.

This is a common problem with the DGX if plugged into the front panel. If this isn't the case and you're plugged straight into the sound card at the rear:

It took me a bit of playing around with to find good settings. Biggest one is obviously clicking the little native American axe symbol(don't know what the fuck its supposed to be) next to the Audio Out category(with Headphone chosen obviously) under the 'Main' category of options. Choose Pro-gaming mode(32-64ohms) regardless of whether you've got super cheap headphones or not. If you've got a nice pair, you bump it up to the top choice(64ohm+). You're really not gonna hurt anything by doing this and it adds a ton of volume, along with a healthy dose of clarity if your headphones are designed for it.

You can then(totally optionally) check Dolby Headphone and 7.1 surround for extra volume and speaker staging while you game, but absolutely turn this off for music, cuz it'll give it an awful, awful reverb quality.
Ah, the gain setting? I wasn't aware that the cheaper ASUS cards had that feature available (owns a Xonar Essence STX).

But actually, it's potentially harmful to your headphones and to your hearing if the gain is too much. It could wreck the drivers in your headphones easily if it gets too loud.
 

CheesecakeRecipe

Stormy Grey
Need some help deciding on a case. Which of these three would you folks recommend:

1) NZXT Source 210 Elite White: $50

2) IN WIN GT1 Black: $50

3) APEX PCV-588 Black Steel: $40 ($30 w/Rebate)

Trying to stay under $50 for the case. Ideally I want a case that offers USB 3.0, cable management, and one or two fans.

Any help is appreciated.

Can't speak for the other two, but I have the Source 210 Elite White and love it. It does offer USB 3.0, has two exhaust fans (one on the back, one on the top) and has decent cable management. My only gripe with the case is that the front two USB ports are upside-down but it's only a small problem.
 
Can't speak for the other two, but I have the Source 210 Elite White and love it. It does offer USB 3.0, has two exhaust fans (one on the back, one on the top) and has decent cable management. My only gripe with the case is that the front two USB ports are upside-down but it's only a small problem.

Me too, same exact opinion. I mean come on... upside down USB's?!?
 

Pachimari

Member
I remember a generous guy in here linked to a reddit page with a Windows 7 copy for §20, but I can't seem to find it on the last couple of pages now - do any of you know where to find this?

Because I'm about to shell out §130 for a physical DVD version.
 

kharma45

Member
I remember a generous guy in here linked to a reddit page with a Windows 7 copy for §20, but I can't seem to find it on the last couple of pages now - do any of you know where to find this?

Because I'm about to shell out §130 for a physical DVD version.

Search for r/software swap in Google for the subreddit.

Need some help deciding on a case. Which of these three would you folks recommend:

1) NZXT Source 210 Elite White: $50

2) IN WIN GT1 Black: $50

3) APEX PCV-588 Black Steel: $40 ($30 w/Rebate)

Trying to stay under $50 for the case. Ideally I want a case that offers USB 3.0, cable management, and one or two fans.

Any help is appreciated.

Get the Corsair 200R or if you can find $5 in an old pair of jeans the NZXT H230 for $55.

I just sort of assumed that with my GTX760 that I would be able to play games like Crysis 3 and Assassin's Creed 3 completely maxed out at 60fps.

I guess I have a lot to learn...

Crysis 3 is very demanding and AC3 is just poorly made.

With Crysis you can tone down the settings and it still looks unreal.
 

Big Chungus

Member
Not sure where this noise is coming from in my PC, I tried the roll up a piece of paper trick and I think its coming from my GPU...

Video of the sound:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ie7jrGyWBME&feature=youtu.be

Should I try taking the fan off or should I contact XFX for a replacement?

So I contacted XFX and they gave me 2 options, either I can get a replacement or they will send me a replacement cooler and I can install it myself.

What do you guys think would be best?

I've installed cpu cooler plenty of times, but installed a gpu cooler once(on a 9800 pro back in 2004).
 
Posting here since I think my GPU is dying, I'm seeing some weird shit when playing like the screen splitting in two with huge scanlines and some other stuff. I want to rebuild a new computer, I already know that I'm gonna need a new case since the one I have really sucks and hasn't got any fans. Dust also gets into it really easily. Here are my specs, I don't know which parts I can keep :

Your Current Specs:

CPU : Intel Core i5 2500K @ 3.30GHz
RAM : 2*2GB DDR3 Corsair
Motherboard : GA-P67X-UD3-B3 (Revision B3) (Socket 1155) (Here are the specs, website is in French, sorry : http://www.materiel.net/carte-mere-socket-1155/gigabyte-ga-p67x-ud3-b3-revision-b3-68361.html)
GPU : Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 1GB
HDD : Seagate Barracuda 500GB SATA III 16 Mo cache

Budget: 500-900&#8364; France

Main Use: Light Gaming 5, Gaming 5, Emulation (PS2/Wii/GC) 5, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) 5, Video Editing 1, Streaming games in HD 1, 3D/Model work 1.

Monitor Resolution: 1366x768 mainly, 1080p in Big Picture (I'm okay with 30fps when playing at 1080p)

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA : Don't care.
60 FPS is important in 1366x768. I'm okay with slight drops in 1080p as long as it's not a rollercoaster.
No specific app or game in mind, I'd like to run Wii games at a decent framerate with few drops and next gen games that will release in a few years at high (not ultra), 60FPS and AA (for example Dying Light this year or Witcher 3). Don't know if it's any help though since we have no informations about the performance of these games.

Looking to reuse any parts?: No idea. Power supply is barely what's reccomended for my CPU and GPU so maybe I'll ditch that. If my GPU is indeed dying I'm not going to reuse it.
My case is crap so I need a new one.

When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? : No

Will you be overclocking?: No

I'm going on an internship during 4 months in April paid ~436&#8364; per month. I'm ready to spend 900&#8364; max for a new computer including the case (and the power supply too, mine kinda sucks right now, it's barely what's recommended by my processor and GPU). 900&#8364; is going to hurt since it's 2 months of my intern salary going down the drain but I'm ready to pay this kind of money if it's necessary since my backlog is already huge so I'm not going to spend a lot of money on games. No need to include the OS price by the way, I already have a copy of W7 64bits.
 
There's nothing more depressing than losing a hdd full of shit. Currently running some recovery software on a drive; it doesn't seem like a mechanical failure, but, still, I'm not optimistic. I had a ton of ripped TV series on there, something which I'd been slowly working through with a view to putting together an XBMC device. I'm not entirely sure I could be bothered ripping them all again. It had made me ponder a blu-ray burner for back-up purposes. How reliable are bd-r's and does anyone here use them?
 

Ashes

Banned
There's nothing more depressing than losing a hdd full of shit. Currently running some recovery software on a drive; it doesn't seem like a mechanical failure, but, still, I'm not optimistic. I had a ton of ripped TV series on there, something which I'd been slowly working through with a view to putting together an XBMC device. I'm not entirely sure I could be bothered ripping them all again. It had made me ponder a blu-ray burner for back-up purposes. How reliable are bd-r's and does anyone here use them?

Try plugging it into one those cases that make an internal harddrive almost portable?

Mine went kaput. And I took it to the shops to see if I could recover data. And he tried it and it just worked. So I tried it again on mine and it worked again.
 
Got a 1440p monitor that I managed to overclock to 120hz and now my single GTX 680 feels so pitiful ;_;
Don't have an SLI-capable MB so, any chance for a ~$500 card that can even drive that thing in the near future?

A 780 ghz edition from gigabyte or a properly overclocked MSI lightning can push that, in some games. Or you could buy a 770 and SLI it with your 680, that should work since the 770 is just a better 680. Maybe. Or just buy another 680, should be able to get one on the cheap.



Msi gaming 780ti or the gigabyte ghz edition 780ti?

Which one should I go for GAF?

Honestly, I would wait until the end of March and see if the 790 is announced and how it stacks up. The 690 is still impressive today, one would hope the 790 is similarly impressive. If it is, then it could be worth the extra 200 or so it probably costs over the 780ti. Up to you, but I'm of the opinion that the 780ti isn't a very good buy from a price/performance standpoint.
 

Stet

Banned
I've managed to replace a bunch of components in the last few months to beef up my rig substantially. The only thing I'm still running that's old is my GTX 560 -- what would be the best upgrade for money spent, or would I be seeing such minimal performance gains that I should wait for the 800 series?
 
Alright, so I bought the UDH4 and the H60. Problem is, I can't figure out where the pump's connector should go. A couple of Google searches give me mixed results. I have a 3 pin connection labeled SYS_FAN4 and a 4 pin connection labeled CPU_OPT. The cable itself is 3 pin, however, the manual states that CPU_OPT is for connecting water pumps. I've also read that the pump needs consistent power.

Anyone got any ideas?
 

Seanspeed

Banned
Ah, the gain setting? I wasn't aware that the cheaper ASUS cards had that feature available (owns a Xonar Essence STX).

But actually, it's potentially harmful to your headphones and to your hearing if the gain is too much. It could wreck the drivers in your headphones easily if it gets too loud.
As long as you don't use the highest setting, I doubt it'd create any problems with lower end headphones. You can typically tell when you're pushing them too hard as the speakers start to clip.

But yes, having real high volume could be bad for hearing. I'm all too aware of that, unfortunately! :p
 

Gaz_RB

Member
I've managed to replace a bunch of components in the last few months to beef up my rig substantially. The only thing I'm still running that's old is my GTX 560 -- what would be the best upgrade for money spent, or would I be seeing such minimal performance gains that I should wait for the 800 series?

I'd recommend the GTX 760. Going for about $250 now, and you'll get really good gains in performance coming from a 560.
 
I have an I5-3570K (3.8Ghz) with a Hyper 212 cooler, GTX 670 2GB, 8GB 1600MHz RAM.

In terms of overclocking the CPU: Are the performance increases worth it? What sort of gains would I realistically get from it; say going to 4.2GHz?

I have AI Overclock Tuner set to XMP in the ASUS BIOS which is, I assume, giving a maximum speed of 3.8GHz.
 

jonno394

Member
Alright, so I bought the UDH4 and the H60. Problem is, I can't figure out where the pump's connector should go. A couple of Google searches give me mixed results. I have a 3 pin connection labeled SYS_FAN4 and a 4 pin connection labeled CPU_OPT. The cable itself is 3 pin, however, the manual states that CPU_OPT is for connecting water pumps. I've also read that the pump needs consistent power.

Anyone got any ideas?

Im positive it's the CPU-OPT connection. The fourth pin is not required as this is to control the speed of the fan.
 

Gaz_RB

Member
Just bought a Windows 8 key off someone at r/softwareswap for $19

Anyone else bought something over there? How do they get keys for so cheap?

Even if it turns out to not be legit down the line, I think 19 bucks is worth the risk.
 
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