cyen
Member
Those fans probably came with a adaptor that reduce the fan voltage to 7v. At least mine came with that (on the rectangular parte of the box).
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Those fans probably came with a adaptor that reduce the fan voltage to 7v. At least mine came with that (on the rectangular parte of the box).
I have seen the guide from the OP about handling all the wires and it's still a little bit hard to understand but at least I get it a little more now. I have removed the video card from the case and will put most of the cables on the backside of the case.
I'll start do the wiring in around 3 hours.
I'll start do the wiring in around 3 hours.
I finally finished my build late last night (first one) and it seems I have a whole lot of learning and optimizing to do. All I've done so far is download all the drivers for the mobo and GPU plus updates. I tried running metro last light and i was getting around 17 frames a sec with a GTX 780 and an i3570k. I let the GeForce experience app optimize the game for me and it selected very high settings. Im not sure where to even start to get this thing to work properly. I'd appreciate any advice i can get to start optimization. Thanks
cyen
Member
The Geforce experience app probably activated SSAA, turn it off.
Even with my GTX 770 in SLi, this game will run poorly if you don't choose the right settings. It's a beast.
aliencowz7
Member
So I had finished my new pc build a little bit ago and everything went great, ran perfectly and all was good. However as of the last 2 days or so some games started to run REALLY poorly, far worse then they have any business running and I was just curious if anyone had any suggestions for what could potentially be causing the issue.
At first I thought maybe parts were overheating or something but I checked and everything is running really cool so I am kind of at a loss.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($333.98 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($30.98 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($159.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($164.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card ($729.99 @ Newegg)
Sound Card: Creative Labs Sound Blaster Zx 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($122.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Cooler Master V700 700W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($59.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (32/64-bit) ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1957.18
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-04 08:41 EST-0500)
That was the part list I ended up going with. Any ideas would be great, its running older games that it shouldn't have any issues with at like 5-10 fps while it was running them perfectly smooth for the first week or so.
At first I thought maybe parts were overheating or something but I checked and everything is running really cool so I am kind of at a loss.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($333.98 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($30.98 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($159.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($164.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card ($729.99 @ Newegg)
Sound Card: Creative Labs Sound Blaster Zx 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($122.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Cooler Master V700 700W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($59.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (32/64-bit) ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1957.18
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-04 08:41 EST-0500)
That was the part list I ended up going with. Any ideas would be great, its running older games that it shouldn't have any issues with at like 5-10 fps while it was running them perfectly smooth for the first week or so.
cyen
Member
Maybe your GPU clocks are beeing stuck in 2d. Can you check if when playing your clocks are going into 3d mode? (1ghz+). If that´s the case maybe you could try another driver or reinstall the current one.
TekGryphon
Banned
Nice, I'm assuming the SP Quiets run at 7v? I'm not too good at fan management, never had to do it before.
[EDIT] Wait, the Quiet draws 12v. What would lowering the Performances down to 7v do?
doniewhalberg
Member
Pretty much. If you're having trouble, start with SSAA, probably turn off/down Tesselation after that? Should get you going.
aliencowz7
Member
What is a good way to check clock speed while playing a game? I am still pretty new to this stuff so no experience tinkering with it.
Edit: hm I found a program using google to check the GPU clock and its saying its running at 324 Mhz with a game running so you may be right with that I guess. I suppose i need to try to find another driver or something.
Thanks guys, you were right about the settings, i couldnt benchmark yet cause i had to run to work but it was set to SSAA. It's going to feel like the longest day ever at work now.
Terbinator
Member
Best air cooler for Coolermaster 130 GAF?
CPU is a Xeon so no overlcocking. Just needs to be cool and quiet.
CPU is a Xeon so no overlcocking. Just needs to be cool and quiet.
longnosedgoblin
Member
I need a cheap copy of windows 7 and I have seen people on here mention getting keys off reddit. Is there any reason that would be a problem for me being in the UK?
cyen
Member
Both are 12V, using the 7v adaptor will only lower the fan speed, so if you use it on the Performance Edition Fans you will probably get similar speeds to the Quiet Edition at stock.
You can use it on Quiet Edition to make them even quiet.
cyen
Member
Use DDU to uninstall the driver and reinstall it again.
http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/display_driver_uninstaller_download.html
Considering the price, it seems like it would be worth the risk to see if it works in your region.
I have those exact same specs. You'll be able to play on almost max settings in the wilderness, but expect sub 30 fps when you are near or in any big town. That's how it is for me anyway.
doniewhalberg
Member
Haha, with a 780, you're going to have a good time man. It's pretty much just things like SSAA (since that is basically downsampling, thus running the game at 2,4 etc times the strain), and extras like Tesselation, ambient occlusion or god rays that might catch your card depending on the game, how well optimised etc. In general, you're going to have a good time setting your regular options to max.
aliencowz7
Member
Working perfectly again, thanks a bunch.
That card is really only worth the $ if you're limited by power or heat. I'm getting it for my HTPC/Server/Light-gaming machine
I honestly can't tell you how excited I am. I've always been a console gamer so its going to be a totally new experience for me to be able to play at high settings.
as i was doing research on optimizing, i looked at a solution that came packaged with my mobo (Asus p8777-I Deluxe) and its got a software called Turbo V Evo that overclocks everything for me. I bought a corsair h100i with the intent of eventually overclocking manually (still have tons to learn before I attempt this) so i have the cooling ready to go. My question is; does anyone have experience with this software, good or bad? is it a good idea to go this route for the time being. I know that the software automatically changes all the bios settings... could i use those settings as a starting point and lower the voltage manually until i get it to work at lower voltages (i understand this is suppose to be he main reason for dyi). thanks
Pegasus Actual
Gold Member
GTX 770 out for delivery w/ UPS... Goodbye 2010, hello 20...13!
That is that 3Pin the one from the waterblock itself? That's the pump motor power, you kinda need to plug that in! It goes into the CPU FAN or CPU OPT header on the motherboard.
Pegasus Actual
Gold Member
Wow no invite to my Titanfall party for you, bro!2012 actually, the 770 is a rebadged 680
Yep.
Stock fan will actually suffice. Otherwise the Cooler Master Gemini II would do great.
Yes, but some games will still be chuggy due to the processor. Some games will have a huge improvement.
kennah likes to take fun and happiness out to the forest and kill it.2012 actually, the 770 is a rebadged 680
Plug the one from the fan (back of the case) into the CPU_Fan header on the motherboard. The other three pin, which is coming from the pump, you will want to plug into the CPU_OPT or CHA_FAN header.
I have now inserted the fan into the CPU FAN and that 3pin from the waterblock to CPU OPT. Is this correct?
The one cable from the back is a 2pin. I'll take a picture. It comes from top of the case:
Actually, I have just found one more 3pin white connector coming out from the bottom of the case. =/
Terbinator
Member
It doesn't, that's why I'm asking
Coming from a Dark Rock Pro 2 to... this has been torture.Fractal Define R4?
It has a fan controller in the front. The female 3 pin connectors are what you plug fans into. The male 3 pin connectors are the fans. It uses a molex 4 pin connector to give all of them power.
Yeah, Gemini II is the best for the money. You could look at the Thermalright AXP if you want fancier.It doesn't, that's why I'm asking
This is the backside, notice the two loose cables to the left; one black (2pin) and one white (3pin). Both coming from the case. I already have cables connected to CPU FAN and CPU OPS. =/
Yes, Fractal Design R4.
So I don't need to connect those two cables if I only have one fan?
Can I try start up my computer then and see if it works or is there a chance it will break if I have inserted the cables the wrong way?
Yes, Fractal Design R4.
So I don't need to connect those two cables if I only have one fan?
Can I try start up my computer then and see if it works or is there a chance it will break if I have inserted the cables the wrong way?
You have three fans. One case fan in the front. One case fan in the rear. Then one fan on the Corsair H60.
Also, if it reaches, plug the H60 pump cable into the fan controller and leave it at max. The pump likes being plugged directly into power, rather than through the motherboard, if possible.
What mkenyon said.
This video helped me out as I was installing parts into my R4: http://youtu.be/qMRvz_IYSgM
You can skip to 27:36 regarding the case fans and fan controller.
Wow, that's extremely rare. That sucks.
As noted, don't turn anything on. You want to make sure everything is totally dry. I'd honestly pull out all the parts and stick them in rice if you can.
Corsair is really really good about taking care of you if that sort of thing happens though.
Should I put all the things in a plastic bag first or just directly in rice?
Should I go for the hair dryer or rice?
Anything that looks even partially wet, put in rice. Or just leave it out for awhile. Definitely not in a bag.
If you haven't powered on, it's not the end of the world, so don't worry too much. I've had many a leaks during leak testing with watercooling. Only thing I've blown was a pump.
If you haven't powered on, it's not the end of the world, so don't worry too much. I've had many a leaks during leak testing with watercooling. Only thing I've blown was a pump.
Doing a new build and I assumed I'd bring over my old soundcard from a 2007 build It's the X-Fi XtremeMusic. I just assumed this would be an improvement over onboard audio. Could I be wrong, though? I've been out of the game for some time and I have no idea if onboard audio has surpassed sound cards from 7-10 years ago.
My motherboard is the ASUS Z87-A
Soundcard is the Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeMusic (seen here: http://us.store.creative.com/Sound-Blaster-XFi-XtremeMusic-BStock/M/B000AY7A1I.htm)
Thanks for the input
My motherboard is the ASUS Z87-A
Soundcard is the Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeMusic (seen here: http://us.store.creative.com/Sound-Blaster-XFi-XtremeMusic-BStock/M/B000AY7A1I.htm)
Thanks for the input
I'm not sure I'd dunk a videocard in rice, who knows where the grains will end up. The motherboard is probably fine to go in rice (depending on the cooling solution on the VRM). I'd probably just leave the videocard out to air for a few days - maybe near your HVAC intake so it gets some airflow around it.
Yeah, that's probably better than the onboard.Doing a new build and I assumed I'd bring over my old soundcard from a 2007 build It's the X-Fi XtremeMusic. I just assumed this would be an improvement over onboard audio. Could I be wrong, though? I've been out of the game for some time and I have no idea if onboard audio has surpassed sound cards from 7-10 years ago.
My motherboard is the ASUS Z87-A
Soundcard is the Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeMusic (seen here: http://us.store.creative.com/Sound-Blaster-XFi-XtremeMusic-BStock/M/B000AY7A1I.htm)
Thanks for the input
Yeah, that really sucks. I'm sorry
Just know that those leaks are rare. Don't let it put you off building in general.
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