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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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HoodWinked

Member
When I asked earlier whether I had to delete the partitions o create new ones, I was told that it would delete the space. Maybe that was a misunderstanding on my part, but I need to be 100% sure that by choosing Delete, it will merely wipe that section of the storage and let me create a new Partition as opposed to wiping the entire usage of that section of storage.

I'd be devestated to accidentally brick the SSD/HDD by Deleting the partitions in the hope that it'd allow me to create new ones

If I am safe to delete the Partitions, do I delete both System and Primary partitions?


edit: It feels like a budget version of Die Hard 4

you cant brick a drive like that. hdds usually come unformatted.

the virus is probably due to addon syncing. just delete whatever settings you have on firefox and start off new.
 

maneil99

Member
There's about 10 wifi spots around my apartment location. Maybe I should try broadcasting at a different frequency?



Hmm less than a year, it's that new $150 asus router.

frequency wouldn't explain the wired issues. Your modem is wired to you router which is wired to a gaming PC right? I know you have wireless aswell.
 
So I'm looking at the MSI mobos and I have to ask... How does OC Genie 4 in the bios work? Is it something that would help someone like me (first time OC)? Or is it a fancy name that doesn't follow through on the promise?
 
All I can guarantee is you won't lose the space on the HDD, I have no idea about SSDs. As far as the HDD goes you can delete both.

Deleted both Partitions, gave me a default new partition called Unallocated Space, seems to be doing okay so far. Gave me a pop-up saying that Windows may create a new Partition for System files.

Will keep you updated. I'm not a religious man, but I'm praying right now :p



I have to say, I quite admire the ingenuity of this malware, as much of a massive, massive pain in the arse as it is.

It is not detected as a threat by Defender. You can delete most of the files related to it without a problem, but the seed file (that's what I'd call it anyway) is undeletable through normal means. If that seed survives, it just restores the deleted files when it gets the chance. It spreads to whatever storage is linked when you download it. It survives formatting and reinstallations.

Some evil genius must have written the code



Even if this works, how do I go about partitioning the HDD as well without linking it to the SSD, and having it spread again? Guessing I need to reinstall again on HDD with deleted partitions?

If that's the case I'll need to reinstall twice more, once to safely clear the HDD, and once because I want Windows on the SSD rather than the HDD


fake edit: IT'S GONE!

(I think)


Real edit:

mqAqQSq.png



26024_steerpike_DarkSoulsDiaries_VictoryHeader-628x200.jpg



Phew, thanks guys. Now for the painful task of redownloading all of my programmes and that. Will definitely be more vigilant when downloading from now on. Bit annoying that it came from an app downloaded as the second half of a free mobile app from AppGratis
 
I just got my Quick Fire Stealth (blues) and Razor Deathadder... It's an incredible upgrade over my old membrane keyboard and G400.

By the way, the G400 was DESTROYING my hand... I have a mostly palm grip but my index and middle finger curl up a bit sometimes and it was wrecking my joints.

The Deathadder seems to fix this problem.
 

Jafku

Member
How do you know if your PSU is working correctly?
I currently have an Antec BP550. When I opened the PC to clear dust I tried to power on my desktop but it would power on for a few seconds and then shut down. This happened before and When I asked in this thread users told me to check all of my connections, which I did and that fixed it. However this time after I cleared the dust from my PC, I checked all of my connections and plugged out and plugged in my cables and made sure they were firmly in place. Anyone knows whats going on?
Full specs:
Asrock Z75 Pro 3 Motherboard
Intel Core i5-3470
EVGA GTX 760 2GB
Kingston Hyperx 3K 120GB
Western Digital Green 1.5TB
Asus DVD drive
Antec BP550
Corsair Vengeance 8GB (x2 4GB sticks)
 

mkenyon

Banned
How do you know if your PSU is working correctly?
I currently have an Antec BP550. When I opened the PC to clear dust I tried to power on my desktop but it would power on for a few seconds and then shut down. This happened before and When I asked in this thread users told me to check all of my connections, which I did and that fixed it. However this time after I cleared the dust from my PC, I checked all of my connections and plugged out and plugged in my cables and made sure they were firmly in place. Anyone knows whats going on?
Take a pic of the interior? Might be something missed someone might catch.

But, to verify that your PSU is most likely working, do the paperclip trick to jump it, and plug a fan directly to the PSU.

004.JPG
 

Jafku

Member
Take a pic of the interior? Might be something missed someone might catch.

But, to verify that your PSU is most likely working, do the paperclip trick to jump it, and plug a fan directly to the PSU.

004.JPG

Allow me to clarify is That the desktop is currently working and I am typing on it right now. But since I have had this happen twice now I'm kinda worried and would like to prepare myself if I do infact need a new PSU. The only recent upgrade has been my new GPU, went from 7850 - GTX 760
 

mkenyon

Banned
Sometimes they just do funky stuff when you clean them out. Random cable comes loose, maybe even the IO pin connectors. I wouldn't fret it.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Ok thanks. I'm probably over thinking since this is my first build ever, (built last year)
I know what you mean. Occam's Razor says something random is going on when it's being cleaned out which gets fixed. If the PSU was going bad, you'd see that issue happen more times outside of just cleaning it.
 

Jafku

Member
I know what you mean. Occam's Razor says something random is going on when it's being cleaned out which gets fixed. If the PSU was going bad, you'd see that issue happen more times outside of just cleaning it.

Good to know. And thank you for all of your help in this thread! You guy are a god send
 

sal0713

Neo Member
Ok i need some help. Been playing ff14 on pc lately and framerate has been a bit unstable had to tone down the game to get it stable which kinda sucks. I also would like to play newer games with max settings.

Im curently running:
Intel Core i5-3470 Ivy Bridge 3.2GHz
ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M LGA 1155
Geforce GTX 460 SE
14GB of ram.

I'm guessing my issue is the GTX 460.I been looking online and i saw a thread about the GTX 750 ti, but id like to know how big of a difference the card will have if I get the 750 ti, and is there any stronger cards than the GTX 750 ti for around the same price.
 

Pegasus Actual

Gold Member
Got my GTX 770 in. Works wonders for BF4. As I'd been warned in this thread, fewer wonders for SC2.

But man are these cards ridiculously long. I thought my 460s were bad... but this monstrosity is pushing my hard drive cage out the front of my case! Hopefully I'll be able to rearrange stuff to actually let it fit. What the hell are people thinking with this shit? It's not like I have a small case (it's an Antec 1200).
 

Nemo

Will Eat Your Children
I have a PC lying here with a 280x, CPU is a celeron G3220, the processor was cheap so I'm guessing it bottlenecks but anyone know how it performs in gaming maybe?
 

Nemo

Will Eat Your Children
Ok i need some help. Been playing ff14 on pc lately and framerate has been a bit unstable had to tone down the game to get it stable which kinda sucks. I also would like to play newer games with max settings.

Im curently running:
Intel Core i5-3470 Ivy Bridge 3.2GHz
ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M LGA 1155
Geforce GTX 460 SE
14GB of ram.

I'm guessing my issue is the GTX 460.I been looking online and i saw a thread about the GTX 750 ti, but id like to know how big of a difference the card will have if I get the 750 ti, and is there any stronger cards than the GTX 750 ti for around the same price.
I'd say go for a bigger upgrade (unless you like that it has low power draws) or wait it out, something like at least a 270x/GTX 760 seems a good enough upgrade from a 460 IMO
 

Speevy

Banned
I just wanted to give a huge shout out to Liquidmetal14. He not only assembled this rig faster than I thought was possible, but he advised me at every step of the way, was very understanding and non-judgmental, and put up with a lot of waffling on my part.

Thanks!
 

Geneijin

Member
So I ran my 2nd OC at 1.135 mV for 4.1 ghz (current setup is a Biostar Z87w w/ an i5 4670k and the Hyper 212 Evo):



I'm pretty content with where I am at now since these are temps where my ambient room temp is 65-70 F currently. I was wondering how much more I could push this on fans alone. I also managed 4.2 ghz at 1.200 mV for 11 straight hours too. Any comments and advice?
 

KTT

Member
I just wanted to give a huge shout out to Liquidmetal14. He not only assembled this rig faster than I thought was possible, but he advised me at every step of the way, was very understanding and non-judgmental, and put up with a lot of waffling on my part.

Thanks!

Are you guys neighbors or something?
 

b0bbyJ03

Member
I just built a computer and here are a list of the parts
Bitfenix prodigy
Asus p8z77-I deluxe
Galaxy GTX 780
corsair h100i
i3570k
corsair cx 600
G.skills ripjaw x series (4x2GB)

Problem: Getting very low frame rates (25 fps battlefield 3 high settings, 17 fps Metro last light high settings, ssaa off, tesselation off)

I downloaded the latest drivers initially and just to be sure I also tried the previous drivers.

this is my first PC build so im not sure where to start troubleshooting. any advice on what i should be checking?
 
Hi all,

Below is a build I threw together, would be more comfortable with the price point if it included a SSD as well. Also is the $100 more for a 760 over a 660 worth it?

Im coming from a e8400 machine witha 8800gt, this things a beast and can still run most games but lack of dx11 and what not has finally made its time come. reusing the case and disc drives from that build.

Any feedback?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.00)
Motherboard: ASRock Z87 Extreme4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($100.00)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($76.50 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.99 @ Microcenter)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $725.46
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-04 21:34 EST-0500)
 

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
...
Any feedback?
First thing I'd say is to swap out that PSU with something from the OP or with this for $20 more.

Secondly you'll need a CPU cooler if you are planning to overclock that 4670K.
Also the 760 will last you a really long time, so go for it if you can.

I'm sure others with more experience will chime in with more detailed advice as well.
 

TheCloser

Banned
First thing I'd say is to swap out that PSU with something from the OP or with this for $20 more.

Secondly you'll need a CPU cooler if you are planning to overclock that 4670K.
Also the 760 will last you a really long time, so go for it if you can.

I'm sure others with more experience will chime in with more detailed advice as well.

Nope. Maximum 2 years.
 
First thing I'd say is to swap out that PSU with something from the OP or with this for $20 more.

Secondly you'll need a CPU cooler if you are planning to overclock that 4670K.
Also the 760 will last you a really long time, so go for it if you can.

I'm sure others with more experience will chime in with more detailed advice as well.

Doubtful on overclocking. Also whats the knock on psu i chose? Reviews seemed to be solid. (not questioning just curious)

As for the 2 year thing, my 8800gt lasted me almost 5 or so I think.

Was that just a beast card or what?
 

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
Doubtful on overclocking. Also whats the knock on psu i chose? Reviews seemed to be solid. (not questioning just curious)

As for the 2 year thing, my 8800gt lasted me almost 5 or so I think.

Was that just a beast card or what?

If you're not going to overclock you can save money by going with a 4430 then or a 4670 (no K). Then switch your motherboard to a non Z chipset. Edit: You also won't need an aftermarket CPU cooler then.

The reason I mentioned the PSU was because I was looking into the CX series as well and was advised against them because of poor internals. Capacitors and such. The RM series is better and has a 5 year warranty.

I'm not an expert on GPU's, so I'll leave that up to the guys that know what they are talking about regarding the 760 and your 8800GT.
 

Speevy

Banned
I think different people probably have different definitions of what it means for a card to last.

The first occurrence of something that just isn't playable on even the least intensive settings is one metric.

For someone else, it may be dozens of games that fit this idea.

No matter what your definition, PC gaming won't win too many converts if you tell everyone they have to spend $400 on a graphics card or else they shouldn't bother.

Technology is a race your bank account can't ever fully win.
 
If you're not going to overclock you can save money by going with a 4430 then or a 4670 (no K). Then switch your motherboard to a non Z chipset.

The reason I mentioned the PSU was because I was looking into the CX series as well and was advised against them because of poor internals. Capacitors and such. The RM series is better and has a 5 year warranty.

I'm not an expert on GPU's, so I'll leave that up to the guys that know what they are talking about regarding the 760 and your 8800GT.

4670k is cheaper than a 4670, at least from what I can find, because I have a microcenter near by. I can get both 4670k and that mobo for $290, theres a cheaper mobo combo there for $230.

You can see all the options at the bottom of this page:

http://www.microcenter.com/site/brands/intel-processor-bundles.aspx
 

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future

Bronetta

Ask me about the moon landing or the temperature at which jet fuel burns. You may be surprised at what you learn.
Hello PC-GAF. I finally built a PC (posted build a few pages back, nothing too special) and everything went well. As soon as I restarted after installing Windows 8, none of the USB inputs seem to work. The keyboard works if I boot into the mobo but not for Windows 8.

Wondering if someone's run into a similar problem and can offer any help? Thanks in advance.
 

Geneijin

Member
How do you know if your PSU is working correctly?
I currently have an Antec BP550. When I opened the PC to clear dust I tried to power on my desktop but it would power on for a few seconds and then shut down. This happened before and When I asked in this thread users told me to check all of my connections, which I did and that fixed it. However this time after I cleared the dust from my PC, I checked all of my connections and plugged out and plugged in my cables and made sure they were firmly in place. Anyone knows whats going on?
Full specs:
Asrock Z75 Pro 3 Motherboard
Intel Core i5-3470
EVGA GTX 760 2GB
Kingston Hyperx 3K 120GB
Western Digital Green 1.5TB
Asus DVD drive
Antec BP550
When I had something similar happen for my first PC build - except my problems included freezing at bios, unable to restart from a warm boot, etc - it kept getting progressively worse until it just wouldn't boot 4/5 times. I blamed my motherboard to my PSU even until I isolated the problem to my desktop memory being unable to dual channel.
 

Jafku

Member
When I had something similar happen for my first PC build - except my problems included freezing at bios, unable to restart from a warm boot, etc - it kept getting progressively worse until it just wouldn't boot 4/5 times. I blamed my motherboard to my PSU even until I isolated the problem to my desktop memory being unable to dual channel.

Thank you for your feedback. I will also keep that in mind. The memory has been working since it was built though.
 

maneil99

Member
Hello PC-GAF. I finally built a PC (posted build a few pages back, nothing too special) and everything went well. As soon as I restarted after installing Windows 8, none of the USB inputs seem to work. The keyboard works if I boot into the mobo but not for Windows 8.

Wondering if someone's run into a similar problem and can offer any help? Thanks in advance.

You try the USB's on the back aswell?
 

sal0713

Neo Member
I'd say go for a bigger upgrade (unless you like that it has low power draws) or wait it out, something like at least a 270x/GTX 760 seems a good enough upgrade from a 460 IMO

yeah thats too much money. thats why im looking at the 750 dont really have much money to spend, and i do like the low power draws.
 

S.W.

Member
I think we talked earlier. Does the 670 work in the old rig if you put it back in?

I disassembled it :(
Probably will take a while before I put it back together.

In the mean time I am sporting onboard intel graphics on the new rig, have't crashed once AND support 4k resolution. This is better stuff than I thought rofl.
 

GHG

Member
Who is the best hard disk manufacturer to go with these days? Does anybody even make HDD's like samsung used to?

Looking at 2/3 TB drives BTW.
 

Bii

Member
Hello PC-GAF. I finally built a PC (posted build a few pages back, nothing too special) and everything went well. As soon as I restarted after installing Windows 8, none of the USB inputs seem to work. The keyboard works if I boot into the mobo but not for Windows 8.

Wondering if someone's run into a similar problem and can offer any help? Thanks in advance.

How did you install Windows? Was it via USB? If so, remove the USB drive. If youve already done that, go into BIOS and make sure whichever drive you installed Windows is now the boot device

Edit: Actually, is your PC connected to the internet? After I installed Windows and the splash screen came up, all of my USB devices were not functioning until i connected the PC with a wireless dongle.
 
I recently started getting an error saying

"Display driver has stopped responding and has recovered"

and i can't figure out the source of the issue. What could it be?
 
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