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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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Some Nobody

Junior Member
Okay, so I've been thinking of making a desktop upgrade a project for the year. My motherboard is ancient so it's a given that it's going to have to be a full overhaul. My question is, are there any big upgrades that are coming to the market that will make parts I buy this year massively outdated?
 
Okay, so I've been thinking of making a desktop upgrade a project for the year. My motherboard is ancient so it's a given that it's going to have to be a full overhaul. My question is, are there any big upgrades that are coming to the market that will make parts I buy this year massively outdated?

No not really. There are always upgrades on the horizon.

Sure there comes a new series of CPUs, but I doubt the refresh will be significantly different, and some new GPUs, but the bigger differences should only be next year. And you'll have that constantly.
 

vareon

Member
GAF, I have a weird problem with my speakers.

Basically, I have two audio ports, one in the rear for speakers and one in the front for headphones. They used to work fine.

But after I installed the new Geforce driver, weirdness starts. I can only hear the left sound on my speaker and right sound on my headphone, tested it with windows. I'm using a pretty basic left/right speaker, no fancy audio cards at all. Tried installing a sound driver for my motherboard, too. There's no setting in the Geforce utility either. Anyone encountered similar problems?
 
So with the latest Shadows of Mordor and Watch Dogs specs for PC, I'm unsure of where my PC stands in all of this, and more specifically what I should look into upgrading in the future (if anything).

Currently I'm curious if Nvidia is the smarter option for the future, as they seem to be better with driver support and stuff like Physx and the likes.

Your Current Specs:
CPU - i5 2500K @ 3.30GHz
RAM - 16Gb
Motherboard - Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD3P Intel Z68
GPU (Graphics) - AMD 7970 3GB
PSU (Power Supply) - OCZ ModXStream Pro 600w
Case - Fractal R3

Main Use: : I want to hit 60 frames at 1080P with everything going at its highest in terms of quality, and am not interested in downsampling or anything like that.

When will you build?: Summer if need be.

Will you be overclocking?: No


Bonus: What temperature should my computer be at normally? And how many BSOD's is just what happens on a Windows machine? I kept getting BSOD constantly playing Thief, and every now and then it just randomly happens when using the computer.
 
So with the latest Shadows of Mordor and Watch Dogs specs for PC, I'm unsure of where my PC stands in all of this, and more specifically what I should look into upgrading in the future (if anything).

Currently I'm curious if Nvidia is the smarter option for the future, as they seem to be better with driver support and stuff like Physx and the likes.

Your Current Specs:
CPU - i5 2500K @ 3.30GHz
RAM - 16Gb
Motherboard - Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD3P Intel Z68
GPU (Graphics) - AMD 7970 3GB
PSU (Power Supply) - OCZ ModXStream Pro 600w
Case - Fractal R3

Main Use: : I want to hit 60 frames at 1080P with everything going at its highest in terms of quality, and am not interested in downsampling or anything like that.

When will you build?: Summer if need be.

Will you be overclocking?: No


Bonus: What temperature should my computer be at normally? And how many BSOD's is just what happens on a Windows machine? I kept getting BSOD constantly playing Thief, and every now and then it just randomly happens when using the computer.

Your PC should never get BSODs. Maybe a freak accident once, but it should not be coming randomly, something is wrong, is your GPU overclocked?

Anyhow, as the thread title says, a 2500k is fine, although you would get a whole lot more out of it for a whole lot less money if you decide to overclock it.

The GPU is also still fine. I'd also prefer the featureset of NVidia right now, but it kind of depends what the better price performance rate is at the moment. The 7970 still is very good.

Upgrade when you get those games and decide you want to run them better, there is no good reason to do it earlier. Maybe get a SSD if you don't have that.
 

LilJoka

Member
Get a decent CPU cooler and overclock the CPU to 4.5Ghz.

You should not be receiving any BSODs. Use BSODViewer program to see if a particular DLL is causing the BSOD, that can indicate what the problem is.
 
Your PC should never get BSODs. Maybe a freak accident once, but it should not be coming randomly, something is wrong, is your GPU overclocked?

Anyhow, as the thread title says, a 2500k is fine, although you would get a whole lot more out of it for a whole lot less money if you decide to overclock it.

The GPU is also still fine. I'd also prefer the featureset of NVidia right now, but it kind of depends what the better price performance rate is at the moment. The 7970 still is very good.

Upgrade when you get those games and decide you want to run them better, there is no good reason to do it earlier. Maybe get a SSD if you don't have that.

Here's all my BSOD's for the past two weeks, is it a bad Windows install or is some of my hardware faulty - https://www.dropbox.com/sh/djpp04irv14siuy/RTnNqMFzKq

Nothing on my computer is overclocked, as I had a terrible experience with it when I was a kid and wanted to push my computer past 1Ghz 10 years ago.

How are the overcloking tools these days? And what kind of damage can I end up doing in terms of heat and more frequent crashes?

Get a decent CPU cooler and overclock the CPU to 4.5Ghz.

You should not be receiving any BSODs. Use BSODViewer program to see if a particular DLL is causing the BSOD, that can indicate what the problem is.

Right now my cooling is Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO combined with the stock fans on the case.
 

LilJoka

Member
Here's all my BSOD's for the past two weeks, is it a bad Windows install or is some of my hardware faulty - https://www.dropbox.com/sh/djpp04irv14siuy/RTnNqMFzKq

Nothing on my computer is overclocked, as I had a terrible experience with it when I was a kid and wanted to push my computer past 1Ghz 10 years ago.

How are the overcloking tools these days? And what kind of damage can I end up doing in terms of heat and more frequent crashes?

Right now my cooling is Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO combined with the stock fans on the case.

Hyper 212 is ok to start off with, might get 4.3ghz on that. Use the bios to adjust the CPU multiplier and CPU Vcore, test with Prime95. Use Realtemp for CPU core temps, don't surpass 80c.

The most heat generated will be during stress testing, those hours will not be enough to cause any long term damage. Frequent crashes can cause some Windows file corruption occasionally, however that's more likely with RAM overclocking. Again that is also usually only when stress testing, once the overclock is confirmed stable with Prime95 you shouldn't have any BSODs or file corruption.

Those BSODs that have page faults look either like a RAM issue, or combined with the Driver BSODs, could be that the Driver is doing something dodgy with RAM access.

Try BSOD viewer for more details.
 

Baleoce

Member
Looking into an upgrade, thinking down the line towards getting an nvidia shield (possibly a k1 version if its ever announced), and my first port of call will be upgrading to a GTX that can actually stream content.

So where I'm at atm:

MOBO: Gigabyte X58A-UD3R
CPU: i7-950 @3.8GHz
RAM: 6GB DDR3
GPU: EVGA GTX 460
PSU: Corsair 550W (CMPSU 550VX http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139004 )

So I'm basically looking to not have to upgrade anything but the GPU right now. The PC is performing fine, and I'm generally quite happy. But it is definitely time for a new GPU.

My train of thought came to this for ~£180: http://www.dabs.com/products/msi-ge...-pci-e-3-0-hdmi-gaming-twinfrozr-oc-8SWV.html

The PSU requirements quoted by Nvidia say 500W. I was toying with the idea of a 770, but the requirements say 600, and tbh I think for £180 that's not a bad price for a 760? It seems to be the cheapest I can find it for in the UK at least. It would certainly be a big leap from what I have now, and would enable me to think about shield in the future. Any thoughts or alternatives I'm missing out on?
 

LilJoka

Member
The 760 is vastly superior to your 460, so will be a great upgrade.
If you have a decent quality 550W PSU, you can run a GTX 780 off it. Need to know the exact model.
 
Looking into an upgrade, thinking down the line towards getting an nvidia shield (possibly a k1 version if its ever announced), and my first port of call will be upgrading to a GTX that can actually stream content.

So where I'm at atm:

MOBO: Gigabyte X58A-UD3R
CPU: i7-950 @3.8GHz
RAM: 6GB DDR3
GPU: EVGA GTX 460
PSU: Corsair 550W

So I'm basically looking to not have to upgrade anything but the GPU right now. The PC is performing fine, and I'm generally quite happy. But it is definitely time for a new GPU.

My train of thought came to this for ~£180: http://www.dabs.com/products/msi-ge...-pci-e-3-0-hdmi-gaming-twinfrozr-oc-8SWV.html

The PSU requirements quoted by Nvidia say 500W. I was toying with the idea of a 770, but the requirements say 600, and tbh I think for £180 that's not a bad price for a 760? It seems to be the cheapest I can find it for in the UK at least. It would certainly be a big leap from what I have now, and would enable me to think about shield in the future. Any thoughts or alternatives I'm missing out on?

GTX 770 will work on Your power supply without issues. When GPU manufacturer makes suggestion for psu size they need to worry about all the people who bought some $10 crap 700W psu which in reality strugles to give 400W.

As for upgrade i went from 470 to 770 and it was noticable for sure- in places where i had 35-40 fps I'm getting 60+
 

Meia

Member
Not sure this is the place to ask since this is more of a software problem then a hardware one, but this thread a few years ago built the computer that I'm currently having the issue with, so what the hell.



A week or so ago I tried putting in a CD, but my computer won't recognize the disk drive anymore. Bringing it up I'm getting an error 19, indicating that the driver is borked for it. I've tried uninstalling/reinstalling the drive itself with no success, and it's driving me nuts.


Would buying a new disk drive fix it? I mean, one of things I wanted with this computer was a blu-ray drive eventually anyway, so this could be a good excuse for it I guess. Of course, even with a blu-ray drive I'm going to guess I just can't pop a blu-ray movie in and start playing it huh?
 
So, I need a new PC, didn't update my old lady in years and those configurations I tried seem too expensive, maybe you can help me to tweak this because I'm not up to date with this. ;)


Current Configuration:
Mainboard: MSI Z87-G43
CPU: Intel® Core™ i5-4670
GPU: MSI GTX760 OC Twin Frozr
CPU fan: be quiet! Dark Rock Advanced C1
SSD: ADATA Premier Pro SP900 2,5" SSD 128 GB (I already have an external 1 TB hard drive)
OEM: Windows 8.1 64 Bit
RAM: G.Skill DIMM 16 GB DDR3-1333 Kit
Power Supply: be quiet! System Power 7 500W
Case: Sharkoon Mask
Optical Drive: ASUS DRW-24F1ST, DVD-Writer


This costs me around 1.000 € (including the assembling-fee).


But my budget is 700 € to 800 € (Germany). Windows costs me around 70€ to 80€ and assembling-fee is 40€ to 90€ (depends on the website that does it).
So that probably leaves 500 € to 600 € for the actual hardware.

Monitor is 1080p, no plans to update it.


Very important: Photoshop, Illustrator, After Effects, Autodesk Maya, HD movie streams, Web, Office, etc.

Gaming is not that important, but I just ignored PC gaming because my current PC is far too slow, so I'll probably try it, there are some games on my radar. ;)
 

LilJoka

Member
So, I need a new PC, didn't update my old lady in years and those configurations I tried seem too expensive, maybe you can help me to tweak this because I'm not up to date with this. ;)


Current Configuration:
Mainboard: MSI Z87-G43
CPU: Intel® Core™ i5-4670
GPU: MSI GTX760 OC Twin Frozr
CPU fan: be quiet! Dark Rock Advanced C1
SSD: ADATA Premier Pro SP900 2,5" SSD 128 GB
OEM: Windows 8.1 64 Bit
RAM: G.Skill DIMM 16 GB DDR3-1333 Kit
Power Supply: be quiet! System Power 7 500W
Case: Sharkoon Mask
Optical Drive: ASUS DRW-24F1ST, DVD-Writer


This costs me around 1.000 € (including the assembling-fee).


But my budget is 700 € to 800 € (Germany). Windows costs me around 70€ to 80€ and assembling-fee is 40€ to 90€ (depends on the website that does it).
So that probably leaves 500 € to 600 € for the actual hardware.

Monitor is 1080p, no plans to update it.


Very important: Photoshop, Illustrator, After Effects, Autodesk Maya, HD movie streams, Web, Office, etc.

Gaming is not that important, but I just ignored PC gaming because my current PC is far too slow, so I'll probably try it.
Games should benefit because I need a good PC for Photo- & Video-Editing and 3D.

First point to work out is, are you going to overclock?
If yes you want a Z87 Motherboard and a K series CPU.
If not, but a H81 motherboard and a non-K series CPU.

Buy a Hyper 212 CPU Cooler, cheap and cheerful, and quiet.

Also assemble it yourself, there are tons of guides, it's not difficult at all. We are all here to help too.
 
First point to work out is, are you going to overclock?
If yes you want a Z87 Motherboard and a K series CPU.
If not, but a H81 motherboard and a non-K series CPU.
No overclocking. ;)


Buy a Hyper 212 CPU Cooler, cheap and cheerful, and quiet.

Also assemble it yourself, there are tons of guides, it's not difficult at all. We are all here to help too.
Thanks.

I'm currently searching for some guides, it seems quite logical, so maybe I'll try it.
 

riflen

Member
Not sure this is the place to ask since this is more of a software problem then a hardware one, but this thread a few years ago built the computer that I'm currently having the issue with, so what the hell.



A week or so ago I tried putting in a CD, but my computer won't recognize the disk drive anymore. Bringing it up I'm getting an error 19, indicating that the driver is borked for it. I've tried uninstalling/reinstalling the drive itself with no success, and it's driving me nuts.


Would buying a new disk drive fix it? I mean, one of things I wanted with this computer was a blu-ray drive eventually anyway, so this could be a good excuse for it I guess. Of course, even with a blu-ray drive I'm going to guess I just can't pop a blu-ray movie in and start playing it huh?

No-one can tell you for certain that the problem is the drive. You need to complete more tests first.

You should try connecting the drive to different ports on the motherboard to see if the behaviour changes. It's also worth replacing the data cable for the drive. If the disc load mechanism operates, then we can presume power is getting to the drive OK.

To play Blu-Ray movies in Windows you require some playback software as the video files have to be decrypted. Some Blu-Ray drives will come with software, or at least a trial.
 

Leibniz

Member
How did your motherboard break? Is your PC usable in its current state?

Basically I went to bed, turned it off and everything was working ok. Next day morning I wake up, try to turn it on but nothing happens.

After a few tests (I tried another PSU) I realized that plugging the power connector for the CPU makes the computer dead. It doesn't turn on. If I unplug that connector everything works fine.

I guess the motherboard has a short circuit.

It's not usable.
 

XDMA Crossfire is magical. This is interesting though:

With the GeForce GTX 780 Ti we found the peak consistent clock speed on both GPUs went up to 1019MHz while gaming. This is higher than the boost clock on a GTX 780 Ti which is 928MHz. As we posted on the previous page, this seems slightly higher than we've tested in the past. Normally we've seen the GPU hit 1006MHz while gaming, but now it is at 1019MHz with this newest driver. We also noticed the temperature of the GPU was higher, at 87c, versus 84c on previous drivers. This higher temperature threshold has allowed the frequency to go higher, hence the 1019MHz. In any case, this means the GTX 780 Ti SLI configuration was providing us higher performance for this round of testing, so it definitely got to give us its best shot at stock performance without overclocking.

Looks like they found some of those "DX11 optimizations"!
QATikdx.png
 

jfoul

Member

Some nice words from HardOCP.

Snippet 1:
"The performance domination out of the AMD Radeon R9 295X2 also persisted at Eyefinity on triple-displays. While we found all video cards were playable at the same settings in BF4 at 5760x1200 with 2X MSAA and Ultra settings with HBAO the AMD R9 295X2 was significantly faster than GTX 780 Ti SLI and also faster than AMD R9 290X CF."

Snippet 2:
"AMD has done a great job with this video card, by using metal parts and water cooling this is by far one of the best engineering builds AMD has done on a gamer level consumer video card. This is AMD's greatest achievement thus far for a gamer card in build quality, thermal performance and sound profile. That said, the price does seem slightly high, we would have rather have seen this around $1300. Granted, you pay for the best, and this certainly is the best from AMD."
 

molnizzle

Member
Well I went and did it, even though I bought the Xbone Titanfall bundle as a theoretical replacement. The new gear will arrive on Wednesday.

The purpose of this machine is to run my last gen backlog at 1080p on high settings with a 30fps cap via nVidia Inspector. Stuff like Dishonored, Arkham City, The Witcher 2, Dark Souls, etc. I'm still primarily a console gamer, this machine is mainly just to catch up on some stuff I missed last gen. I'd play the games on PS360 but I just can't handle the sub-HD nastiness anymore. Time to build a GAFbox One!

PCPartPicker part list:
CPU: Intel Pentium G3220 3.0GHz Dual-Core Processor ($54.11 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: MSI H81I Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: A-Data XPG V1.0 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Hitachi Travelstar 1TB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($0.00 - reusing PS3 HDD)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 450W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 Professional (OEM) (64-bit) ($0.00 - already owned)
Total: $429.06
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-08 09:33 EDT-0400)

My main goal was obviously to get the price down as low as possible while still allowing for future upgrades if I so choose. I can easily enough throw in another 4GB DIMM when the time comes, or upgrade to a beefier GPU, or even upgrade to an unlocked Broadwell CPU next year since they will be using the same socket. The system is fairly "future proof" in that regard, and cheap enough that it's easy to swallow for the time being. I don't expect that it will have much of an issue running games at 1080p30.

Fucking pumped!
 
Now I need to find another HDTV. I built a couch gaming pc and my current hdtv is maxed at 60hz. I feel like my GTX 780 is going to waste smh. Damn!
 
Now I need to find another HDTV. I built a couch gaming pc and my current hdtv is maxed at 60hz. I feel like my GTX 780 is going to waste smh. Damn!

Finding a TV that accepts and displays 120Hz input is going to be a bit hard. Even when they use "120 Hz" as a marketing point, as it probably only refers to motion interpolation.
 
Finding a TV that accepts and displays 120Hz input is going to be a bit hard. Even when they use "120 Hz" as a marketing point, as it probably only refers to motion interpolation.

Yeah, I think mkenyon had recommended the Seiko 4k TV earlier in this thread somewhere. Pretty sure he said you can get true 120hz @ 1080p.

edit: The brand is actually "Seiki"
 
I picked up my new Corsair Air 540 case, MSI mPower motherboard, i7-4770k, Corsair H105 cooler, and Samsung 256 GB SSD yesterday after work.

The Corsair Case is bulky, but damned, was it easy to keep everything tidy inside there. I've never built a cleaner PC, which is convenient because it has a nice glass side for showing your work. Fans everywhere and I had plenty of room to install the H105 radiator and fans to the front grill. It can be daunting beginning a job like this, but I was delighted to turn it on and have everything work. Even my wireless mouse & keyboard worked, which was a relief, because I couldn't find my old wired mouse & KB.

It did take me a few Windows installations to get it on the correct SS drive, which meant that I ran out of installations and had to activate it by phone. Now I just have to reinstall everything, which will take forever. Steam and Office 2013 are already back. I had too much crap on there before anyway.

I'll explore overclocking tonight.

I'm officially ready for Watch Dogs (assuming it reviews well).

The hardest part of the whole installation was lying to my wife about how much it cost. "You spent money before our trip to Italy???" Relax, lady! I only have 3 pairs of shoes and did not buy 6 dresses last month.
 
I'm currently looking for a 1080p monitor, got two questions:

1) If I get a monitor with, say, a 120hz refresh rate, will this affect how 60fps games look?

2) I've heard about the quality of IPS monitors, so would it be worth waiting for one that also has Gsync?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Crosspost from R9-295 thread -

This card, and crossfire, is fucking horrible.

The only reason to consider buying this card is if BF4 is the only game you play. If that's the case, you have terrible taste in videogames. :p
I'm currently looking for a 1080p monitor, got two questions:

1) If I get a monitor with, say, a 120hz refresh rate, will this affect how 60fps games look?

2) I've heard about the quality of IPS monitors, so would it be worth waiting for one that also has Gsync?
1. Run them at 120 FPS.

2. No, because you might be waiting forever.
I would not be surprised if nVidia announced a '790' to steal AMD's thunder.
NVIDIA has no need to steal the thunder from the 295. They already do that with a single 780 Ti in most games. In fact, I wouldn't touch that "thunder" with a 10 foot pole.
 
Well most newer games tend to run at 60fps on my rig, which is why I'm asking how a 60fps game would look on a monitor with a higher refresh rate.

So which is better then, an IPS monitor, or one with Gsync?
 

kennah

Member
Well most newer games tend to run at 60fps on my rig, which is why I'm asking how a 60fps game would look on a monitor with a higher refresh rate.

So which is better then, an IPS monitor, or one with Gsync?

1. it would look exactly the same...

2. Up to you, they are two different technologies.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Well most newer games tend to run at 60fps on my rig, which is why I'm asking how a 60fps game would look on a monitor with a higher refresh rate.

So which is better then, an IPS monitor, or one with Gsync?
Do they run at 60fps because you have vsync on?

Most games, outside of the graphics hogs, run at 1080p/120fps pretty easily on an intel i5/i7 with something like a 7970 or 670/760/770 or better.

IPS is better if you want nice colors. G-Sync or any 120Hz TN is better if you want less blur, lower input lag (generally), and a snappier response.
 

riflen

Member
Well most newer games tend to run at 60fps on my rig, which is why I'm asking how a 60fps game would look on a monitor with a higher refresh rate.

They will look better than on a 60Hz panel. There will be less flicker and blurring and if you decide not to use v-sync, tearing will be far less pronounced. Personally though, I think to get the full benefit you need to be at frame-rates of ~90fps and above.

So which is better then, an IPS monitor, or one with Gsync?

This is impossible to answer, not least because there are essentially no G-Sync displays available with which to form an objective opinion.

All that can be said is that IPS has better colour reproduction and viewing angles than TN.
Although I love 120Hz, I would say that if you expect this display to last you several years and your PC can't manage high frame-rates in the games you play, then a good 60Hz IPS is probably more suitable for you.

Personally, I am waiting for a QHD VA G-Sync panel that's apparently coming later this year, but then I already have a 120Hz display.
 

cory64

Member
Big Maxwell is going to make the 295 look like a joke. Theoretically it could get 50% more performance at half the TDP.

Do they run at 60fps because you have vsync on?

Most games, outside of the graphics hogs, run at 1080p/120fps pretty easily on an intel i5/i7 with something like a 7970 or 670/760/770 or better.

IPS is better if you want nice colors. G-Sync or any 120Hz TN is better if you want less blur, lower input lag (generally), and a snappier response.
Yeah I wouldn't recommend a 660 or lower, it's just out of range for 1080p120 on most modern games for me. But when it can hit that, it's magic.
 

cebri.one

Member
I prefer to wait until high-end single GPUs handle 4k at 60fps easily in some of the most demanding games, maybe in 2-3 years. Until then 1080p/1440p gaming for me.
 
Hi guys,

Quick question.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...46067&ef_id=U0KzbgAABNgu2SRO:20140408172534:s

I have one of those. We added an extra fan to the top, and one to the front. It comes with one fan on the top, two on the door and one in the rear.

The two in the door are intake, the one in the front is intake, and the two on the top are intake. There's only one fan blowing air out so I think getting these adjusted might be a good idea. There is room on the side window for another fan but it won't fit with the heat sink we have. Can anyone recommend which fans should be intake and which should be blowing air out of the case?

Also, for the second 200mm fan we added to the top, there are two cables. Both are plugged in but the LED does not light up. I've never dealt with NZXT before so I haven't seen this kind of design before. Any idea why the LED isn't lighting up but the fan is spinning?
 
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