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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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yatesl

Member
Do the fans need anything special, like a control connector, or do they just power off the controller?

Nope. the sockets are bog standard 4 pin, and the controller runs off of a molex. Don't know if you can make it out, but they're all in the top left corner (I don't use them, so they're tied and tucked away).

2guSTNk.jpg

But yeah, you shouldn't need any more, depending on what GPU you have. Mine has the two that came with it (intake on the front, out on the back), and my temps are currently (idle) 29c for the CPU (with a 212 Evo) and 28c on the GPU (Gigabyte 770). Despite all the dampening, the case doesn't run too hot. My max temp recently was 66c on the GPU, and that was whilst playing Battlefield 4 on max settings.
 

thefil

Member
Nope. the sockets are bog standard 4 pin, and the controller runs off of a molex. Don't know if you can make it out, but they're all in the top left corner (I don't use them, so they're tied and tucked away).



But yeah, you shouldn't need any more, depending on what GPU you have. Mine has the two that came with it (intake on the front, out on the back), and my temps are currently (idle) 29c for the CPU (with a 212 Evo) and 28c on the GPU (Gigabyte 770). Despite all the dampening, the case doesn't run too hot. My max temp recently was 66c on the GPU, and that was whilst playing Battlefield 4 on max settings.

Thanks man, that's really helpful. I guess my old case was just really messed up on airflow or something. Hopefully I can get down to the <<70 range with the new one.
 

thefil

Member
Testing

It looks like 74C is pretty normal for that GPU under load. I wouldn't expect any massive change in temps from more fans.

Just an increase in noise.

Interesting. I guess all my temperature expectations are grounded in 2005-era expectations.

A friend of mine mentioned that some manufacturers ship software to let you adjust the temperature/fan speed curve, so I might try to track that down. I'm actually not that worried about noise.
 

BPoole

Member
That'd be worth an order if someone wanted it and was in no rush. I'd expect to get it quicker than a month too.

I went ahead and ordered it. I'm not really playing any graphically intensive games atm, so my 6950s will easily last me until it arrives.
 

jonno394

Member
Ive been offered a Corsair 400r for cheap off one of the IT guys I work with, he's used it for a few months but upgraded already. He said im free to try it out and if I dont like it I can give it him back for a refund.

Any reason why I shouldn't go for a second hand case?
 

kharma45

Member
Ive been offered a Corsair 400r for cheap off one of the IT guys I work with, he's used it for a few months but upgraded already. He said im free to try it out and if I dont like it I can give it him back for a refund.

Any reason why I shouldn't go for a second hand case?

Nope, cases are usually sturdy enough. I'd have no issues and you'll probably get a good price on it.
 

nicjac

Member
It is really frustrating, got my whole build setup, just waiting for my i7 to be delivered. I ordered it together from Amazon with most of the other parts. For some reason they decided to use Hermes for this delivery and they seem completely incompetent. According to their tracking page, they had two failed delivery attempts. Except that I was home that whole time and no call card was left either.

So annoying. Hopefully it will come relatively soon.
 

kharma45

Member
It is really frustrating, got my whole build setup, just waiting for my i7 to be delivered. I ordered it together from Amazon with most of the other parts. For some reason they decided to use Hermes for this delivery and they seem completely incompetent. According to their tracking page, they had two failed delivery attempts. Except that I was home that whole time and no call card was left either.

So annoying. Hopefully it will come relatively soon.

Yeah Hermes are trash. Email Amazon and complain, you'll likely get something out of it.
 

kennah

Member
NoRéN;96977675 said:
If I wasn't paying my sister's tuition this month I would totally treat myself.

Why do I feel so guilty spending money on myself? :(

I'm a few parts shy of done if you want to spend more on other people :p
 

Jokab

Member
Alright so my PC is once again failing to recognize my second HDD which has all my games on it (putting it in other SATA slots, it doesn't even get past POST), so it's effectively unusable. I'm sick of it, so I'm getting new parts. More specifically I'm interested in a new motherboard, CPU and RAM. This is because my GPU is still capable, the 1TB drive is still good (I hope, I haven't tested it in another computer actually), the PSU (at 450W) is a bit on the low side I suppose but it'll probably do (correct me on this?).

I was eyeing this upgrade package which contains the parts that I need, and is in my budget, which is around $500-550. http://www.komplett.se/uppgraderingspaket-intel-core-i5-4670k/783615

I'll mostly be doing gaming, but I don't require max settings at all. I just want new parts that, unlike what I have now, are functional and do the job. Bang for buck is important too, as I don't want to have to upgrade next year or even the year after that.

Since my main HDD is IDE, it won't work on new motherboards, so I'm looking to get an SSD for Windows and for cache. Is that how that works? Can you install Windows on one part of it and still use some space for cache? What size would I need for that?

I think that should be enough info, if you need anything else to help me make my decision then just ask. Thanks!

EDIT: Oh yeah, and I have an Antec 300 case if that's relevant at all.
 

bubu

Member
It is really frustrating, got my whole build setup, just waiting for my i7 to be delivered. I ordered it together from Amazon with most of the other parts. For some reason they decided to use Hermes for this delivery and they seem completely incompetent. According to their tracking page, they had two failed delivery attempts. Except that I was home that whole time and no call card was left either.

So annoying. Hopefully it will come relatively soon.

Hermes are the absolute worst company I have ever dealt with. Take a look at their reviews and they're pretty horrible.
 

SleazyC

Member
Alright so my PC is once again failing to recognize my second HDD which has all my games on it (putting it in other SATA slots, it doesn't even get past POST), so it's effectively unusable. I'm sick of it, so I'm getting new parts. More specifically I'm interested in a new motherboard, CPU and RAM. This is because my GPU is still capable, the 1TB drive is still good (I hope, I haven't tested it in another computer actually), the PSU (at 450W) is a bit on the low side I suppose but it'll probably do (correct me on this?).

I was eyeing this upgrade package which contains the parts that I need, and is in my budget, which is around $500-550. http://www.komplett.se/uppgraderingspaket-intel-core-i5-4670k/783615

I'll mostly be doing gaming, but I don't require max settings at all. I just want new parts that, unlike what I have now, are functional and do the job. Bang for buck is important too, as I don't want to have to upgrade next year or even the year after that.

Since my main HDD is IDE, it won't work on new motherboards, so I'm looking to get an SSD for Windows and for cache. Is that how that works? Can you install Windows on one part of it and still use some space for cache? What size would I need for that?

I think that should be enough info, if you need anything else to help me make my decision then just ask. Thanks!

EDIT: Oh yeah, and I have an Antec 300 case if that's relevant at all.
What kind of GPU are you using? If it's on the high-end 450W might be a bit on the low side but it also depends on what kind of PSU you are using.

Assuming you are outside of NA since you linked to a Swedish website, but RAM and SSD prices have fallen pretty low in the US and you could likely spend $150 or less to get both. Not sure what the situation is in Sweden.
 

Jokab

Member
What kind of GPU are you using? If it's on the high-end 450W might be a bit on the low side but it also depends on what kind of PSU you are using.

Assuming you are outside of NA since you linked to a Swedish website, but RAM and SSD prices have fallen pretty low in the US and you could likely spend $150 or less to get both. Not sure what the situation is in Sweden.

I have a GTX 460 1GB. It's far from high-end these days I guess.

And yeah, I'm in Sweden. I was recommended by a friend to get a 120gb SSD (simply keep as main HDD and put games I actively play on there), which seem to be around $110-130.
 

BDP

Neo Member
Forgive me because this is my first time owning a GPU with two connections for power. One is an 8 pin and the other is 6. Does this mean I have to use two separate pcie power connectors lines to the psu or can I use the one pcie line that has two 6 pins with optional 8 pin connector?

Does what I said make sense even...lol.

Here is my PSU...

http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16817139042
 

Kukumalu

Member
Motherboard MSI Z87I Gaming AC Mini-ITX
CPU Intel i5 4670k
CPU Cooler Corsair H60
RAM 16GB Corsair (Still not sure which one)
GPU MSI R9 270X Gaming 2 GB or MSI GTX760 (They are pretty silent from what I've read)
SSD Samsung EVO 250GB
HDD Western Digital Red 3TB
PSU Seasonic X-660 (Only thing I'm re-using from my old PC)
Case Fractal Design Node 304 / Lian-Li PC-Q33 / Lian-Li PC-Q35

Main purpose of the computer is to be an HTPC while also being hooked up to my monitor ( I have my computer in the living room, couple of meters from the TV).
Silence is the main thing I'm looking for and that's what makes me still not being sure about which case I should get while also making it fit the living room environment.
Anyone else here got one of those cases and care to share their opinion?
 

kennah

Member
Motherboard MSI Z87I Gaming AC Mini-ITX
CPU Intel i5 4670k
CPU Cooler Corsair H60
RAM 16GB Corsair (Still not sure which one)
GPU MSI R9 270X Gaming 2 GB or MSI GTX760 (They are pretty silent from what I've read)
SSD Samsung EVO 250GB
HDD Western Digital Red 3TB
PSU Seasonic X-660 (Only thing I'm re-using from my old PC)
Case Fractal Design Node 304 / Lian-Li PC-Q33 / Lian-Li PC-Q35

Main purpose of the computer is to be an HTPC while also being hooked up to my monitor ( I have my computer in the living room, couple of meters from the TV).
Silence is the main thing I'm looking for and that's what makes me still not being sure about which case I should get while also making it fit the living room environment.
Anyone else here got one of those cases and care to share their opinion?

Any of those cases will be great. Get the one you like the look of best. I loooove the Fractal Node.

Couple other notes -
You might want to look into an aftermarket cooler for your CPU like a Hyper 212 with some quiet fans on it.
If you aren't doing any hard core video editing/multitasking work, you definitely don't need 16 gigs of RAM. Especially with an HTPC as they tend to only be doing one task at a time - a game, a movie, et cetera. You can save yourself some cash by dropping down to 8gig.
And be aware that the WD RED hard drives are intended for a NAS environment and not every day use. Get a Blue.


And the ultimate in quiet computing is water cooled by the way ;)
 

Buggy Loop

Member
Im looking for a new mouse, and surprisingly if there's one OT thread lacking on gaf its one about gaming mice i believe.

My Razer Lachesis was plagued with stuttering movement randomly, would sometimes happen in games, very frustrating and i had to go behind the case and unplug/plug the mouse for it to reset. It was some kind of firmware bug where it started very subtly that it would not record the movement, up to the point where it was not even registering seconds of movement and then just randomly appear across the screen and lagging till the next mouse refresh. Simply unacceptable.

Now the rubber is starting to feel scratchy and peeling off, time to look for a new one.

Sadly it seems Deathadder is the #1 gaming mouse on the web but, im trying to avoid razer, i had problems with mice and keyboard from them before, i dont care if deathadder is relatively problems free, i want to avoid it.

I want optical, right handed (no buttons on right side please!), claw grip/palm grip hybrid, no acceleration, i dont care about very very high dpi, actually i would prefer native dpi to be in the range of 800~2200. Difference with native is that im not interested in a sensor with native 8200 dpi that can go to the 800~1500 range because most of them can easily do that, the problem is if the sensor feels comfortable doing that, most often its not. My Lachesis was 4000 dpi, totally useless.

I was really looking into the Zowie ec2 evo CL until i heard it had peeling problems with the rubber.. Zowie is looking into this but god knows when it'll be ok. If i dont go with the CL, apparently there's problems with the scroll wheel for the normal ec evo series..

Corsair M45 will use the same sensor as Steelseries rival and the shape and build quality seems fine but again, 5000 dpi.. really? no really? Who actually play games at that dpi?

The CM storm spawn seems sweet but it looks short to me, im not that clawgrip as if im grabbing a mouse by only the fingers or having the palm completely rest on the mat.

Is there a single perfect mouse out there??
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
Im looking for a new mouse, and surprisingly if there's one OT thread lacking on gaf its one about gaming mice i believe.

My Razer Lachesis was plagued with stuttering movement randomly, would sometimes happen in games, very frustrating and i had to go behind the case and unplug/plug the mouse for it to reset. It was some kind of firmware bug where it started very subtly that it would not record the movement, up to the point where it was not even registering seconds of movement and then just randomly appear across the screen and lagging till the next mouse refresh. Simply unacceptable.

Now the rubber is starting to feel scratchy and peeling off, time to look for a new one.

Sadly it seems Deathadder is the #1 gaming mouse on the web but, im trying to avoid razer, i had problems with mice and keyboard from them before, i dont care if deathadder is relatively problems free, i want to avoid it.

I want optical, right handed (no buttons on right side please!), claw grip/palm grip hybrid, no acceleration, i dont care about very very high dpi, actually i would prefer native dpi to be in the range of 800~2200. Difference with native is that im not interested in a sensor with native 8200 dpi that can go to the 800~1500 range because most of them can easily do that, the problem is if the sensor feels comfortable doing that, most often its not. My Lachesis was 4000 dpi, totally useless.

I was really looking into the Zowie ec2 evo CL until i heard it had peeling problems with the rubber.. Zowie is looking into this but god knows when it'll be ok. If i dont go with the CL, apparently there's problems with the scroll wheel for the normal ec evo series..

Corsair M45 will use the same sensor as Steelseries rival and the shape and build quality seems fine but again, 5000 dpi.. really? no really? Who actually play games at that dpi?

The CM storm spawn seems sweet but it looks short to me, im not that clawgrip as if im grabbing a mouse by only the fingers or having the palm completely rest on the mat.

Is there a single perfect mouse out there??

There are some good ones you listed there that suit different styles. I never had a claw style mouse like the CM Storm Spawn and it's easily the best mouse I've used. It doesn't have as high a DPI as other mice but you can't beat it for the price. I got mine back when it was still 50 or 60.
 

yatesl

Member
Forgive me because this is my first time owning a GPU with two connections for power. One is an 8 pin and the other is 6. Does this mean I have to use two separate pcie power connectors lines to the psu or can I use the one pcie line that has two 6 pins with optional 8 pin connector?

Does what I said make sense even...lol.

Here is my PSU...

http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16817139042

You can use the 6 and 6+2 connectors on the same cable.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Thinking of grabbing a SoundBlaster Z card so that I can get a gaming headset with an amp.

Do you guys who have the SB Z have any gaming (mic included) recommendations under $300 for the headset?

I skimmed the guide included in the OP but it didn't seem to have much stuff that was <$300 that included a mic for gaming.

Astros?
Can't comment much here since I haven't tried too many myself and so much stigma or markup on headsets. The SBZ PCI-E I got to listen to with $250 AKG phones and that was super nice, but I'd say to go with a cheaper headphone and external mic for value and comfort and sound quality and mic quality and build quility .
 

mkenyon

Banned
Im looking for a new mouse, and surprisingly if there's one OT thread lacking on gaf its one about gaming mice i believe.

My Razer Lachesis was plagued with stuttering movement randomly, would sometimes happen in games, very frustrating and i had to go behind the case and unplug/plug the mouse for it to reset. It was some kind of firmware bug where it started very subtly that it would not record the movement, up to the point where it was not even registering seconds of movement and then just randomly appear across the screen and lagging till the next mouse refresh. Simply unacceptable.

Now the rubber is starting to feel scratchy and peeling off, time to look for a new one.

Sadly it seems Deathadder is the #1 gaming mouse on the web but, im trying to avoid razer, i had problems with mice and keyboard from them before, i dont care if deathadder is relatively problems free, i want to avoid it.

I want optical, right handed (no buttons on right side please!), claw grip/palm grip hybrid, no acceleration, i dont care about very very high dpi, actually i would prefer native dpi to be in the range of 800~2200. Difference with native is that im not interested in a sensor with native 8200 dpi that can go to the 800~1500 range because most of them can easily do that, the problem is if the sensor feels comfortable doing that, most often its not. My Lachesis was 4000 dpi, totally useless.

I was really looking into the Zowie ec2 evo CL until i heard it had peeling problems with the rubber.. Zowie is looking into this but god knows when it'll be ok. If i dont go with the CL, apparently there's problems with the scroll wheel for the normal ec evo series..

Corsair M45 will use the same sensor as Steelseries rival and the shape and build quality seems fine but again, 5000 dpi.. really? no really? Who actually play games at that dpi?

The CM storm spawn seems sweet but it looks short to me, im not that clawgrip as if im grabbing a mouse by only the fingers or having the palm completely rest on the mat.

Is there a single perfect mouse out there??
Deathadder has interpolation. Steelseries Rival has the best firmware, zero interpolation. Most laser mice require extra heavy interpolation to go to non-native DPI settings, and this isn't an issue on the Rival. Sounds like that's what you're looking for.
That looks nice. Is it out already? I am going to do a new build later this year and am looking for a different case than my current case labs.
January 13th.

If you sell the M8, lemme know.
Thinking of grabbing a SoundBlaster Z card so that I can get a gaming headset with an amp.

Do you guys who have the SB Z have any gaming (mic included) recommendations under $300 for the headset?

I skimmed the guide included in the OP but it didn't seem to have much stuff that was <$300 that included a mic for gaming.

Astros?
Per Haz's post above, I have the AKG Q701s and SB ZxR that he tried out. It's pretty fucking incredible. The huge soundstage on the Q701s allow for more accurate virtualized surround, which is awesome. It sounds like a real surround setup.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Im looking for a new mouse, and surprisingly if there's one OT thread lacking on gaf its one about gaming mice i believe.

My Razer Lachesis was plagued with stuttering movement randomly, would sometimes happen in games, very frustrating and i had to go behind the case and unplug/plug the mouse for it to reset. It was some kind of firmware bug where it started very subtly that it would not record the movement, up to the point where it was not even registering seconds of movement and then just randomly appear across the screen and lagging till the next mouse refresh. Simply unacceptable.

Now the rubber is starting to feel scratchy and peeling off, time to look for a new one.

Sadly it seems Deathadder is the #1 gaming mouse on the web but, im trying to avoid razer, i had problems with mice and keyboard from them before, i dont care if deathadder is relatively problems free, i want to avoid it.

I want optical, right handed (no buttons on right side please!), claw grip/palm grip hybrid, no acceleration, i dont care about very very high dpi, actually i would prefer native dpi to be in the range of 800~2200.

The CM storm spawn seems sweet but it looks short to me, im not that clawgrip as if im grabbing a mouse by only the fingers or having the palm completely rest on the mat.

Is there a single perfect mouse out there??
Highly suggest giving the spawn a shotshot I rest by palming it and my hands are larger than average.
 
Thinking of grabbing a SoundBlaster Z card so that I can get a gaming headset with an amp.

Do you guys who have the SB Z have any gaming (mic included) recommendations under $300 for the headset?

I skimmed the guide included in the OP but it didn't seem to have much stuff that was <$300 that included a mic for gaming.

Astros?
FYI, AMD's TrueAudio additions to their newer GPUs and Broadwell's improved audio processor is going to achieve a lot of the same thing buying a dedicated sound card would.

I'm not a fan of post-processing myself, which is the majority of what the Soundblaster cards add. The major perk is that it's just a really good DAC.
 

Typhest

Neo Member
Im looking for a new mouse, and surprisingly if there's one OT thread lacking on gaf its one about gaming mice i believe.

My Razer Lachesis was plagued with stuttering movement randomly, would sometimes happen in games, very frustrating and i had to go behind the case and unplug/plug the mouse for it to reset. It was some kind of firmware bug where it started very subtly that it would not record the movement, up to the point where it was not even registering seconds of movement and then just randomly appear across the screen and lagging till the next mouse refresh. Simply unacceptable.

Now the rubber is starting to feel scratchy and peeling off, time to look for a new one.

Sadly it seems Deathadder is the #1 gaming mouse on the web but, im trying to avoid razer, i had problems with mice and keyboard from them before, i dont care if deathadder is relatively problems free, i want to avoid it.

I want optical, right handed (no buttons on right side please!), claw grip/palm grip hybrid, no acceleration, i dont care about very very high dpi, actually i would prefer native dpi to be in the range of 800~2200. Difference with native is that im not interested in a sensor with native 8200 dpi that can go to the 800~1500 range because most of them can easily do that, the problem is if the sensor feels comfortable doing that, most often its not. My Lachesis was 4000 dpi, totally useless.

I was really looking into the Zowie ec2 evo CL until i heard it had peeling problems with the rubber.. Zowie is looking into this but god knows when it'll be ok. If i dont go with the CL, apparently there's problems with the scroll wheel for the normal ec evo series..

Corsair M45 will use the same sensor as Steelseries rival and the shape and build quality seems fine but again, 5000 dpi.. really? no really? Who actually play games at that dpi?

The CM storm spawn seems sweet but it looks short to me, im not that clawgrip as if im grabbing a mouse by only the fingers or having the palm completely rest on the mat.

Is there a single perfect mouse out there??

Roccat Kone Pure Optical is an excellent choice. The laser version is supposed to be great too, but I haven't tried it.
 

Big Chungus

Member
Planning on buying the parts for this build:

NmbUYyL.png


Found out that the Bitfenix Prodigy M can fit a mATX motherboard in the system, any reason why I should go Mini ITX over mATX? Weighs less? Cheaper?
 
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