My mate suggested that I try not to run games of my HDD. So i was a bit confused over whether I should keep transferring games form the SSD to HDD or just play them from the HDD.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
- Thread starter Hazaro
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My mate suggested that I try not to run games of my HDD. So i was a bit confused over whether I should keep transferring games form the SSD to HDD or just play them from the HDD.
When the terms of purchase specifically request that people don't resell them
eBay Huckster
Member
When the terms of purchase specifically request that people don't resell them
pfft, who even listens to those
Dr. Kitty Muffins
Member
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883265535
i7 4770. 12GB RAM. 2TB HDD. GTX 260 2GB card.
I just bought this for 669 flat.
Intel B85 chipset.
It will take a SSD, right?
Only 280w power though. The weak link, I know.
Any suggestions for a monitor? I know nothing about the tech in them. I think my desk could tolerate anything up to 23 inches-ish.
And I can use a bluetooth adaptor for my PS4 controller right? Any good ones?
i7 4770. 12GB RAM. 2TB HDD. GTX 260 2GB card.
I just bought this for 669 flat.
Intel B85 chipset.
It will take a SSD, right?
Only 280w power though. The weak link, I know.
Any suggestions for a monitor? I know nothing about the tech in them. I think my desk could tolerate anything up to 23 inches-ish.
And I can use a bluetooth adaptor for my PS4 controller right? Any good ones?
When the terms of purchase specifically request that people don't resell them
cmon now. lets be real lol. though to be fair, if this was 1 month ago, i definitely would have just gotten the 4770k for myself and called it a day.
edit: but to look like less of a scrooge, I have an AMD silver game redemption code thing coming that I don't really need. First post to say they want it will get it when I receive it
Complex Shadow
Cudi Lame
so i am still looking around. and i am confused about motherboards and ram.
like which one of these is more worth it?
MSI Z87-G45 Gaming LGA 1150 Intel Z87 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Pro
o r
ASUS TeK H87M-PLUS/CSM DDR3 1600 LGA 1150 Motherboard
and will both work with this type of memory
Crucial Ballistix 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory
like which one of these is more worth it?
MSI Z87-G45 Gaming LGA 1150 Intel Z87 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Pro
o r
ASUS TeK H87M-PLUS/CSM DDR3 1600 LGA 1150 Motherboard
and will both work with this type of memory
Crucial Ballistix 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory
Objectively Bad Opinion
Member
I'd like it. I only want one game though, so if I get it I'll give away the extra (to someone here)
FacelessSamurai
..but cry so much I wish I had some
I have 2 GTX 580s 1.5GB in SLI. Is there any way I could upgrade to a more recent card (Nvidia only) for really cheap? I'd sell both of my cards to recoup the cost, but I am not looking to spend a lot right now (baby coming in a month or so). Is a gtx 760 better than my SLI setup or would I have to go at least for a 770?
piratepwnsninja
Member
OK, PC-GAF, I need help with a decision. Back a few months ago when the 880 stuff came out, I said I was probably going to wait to upgrade my 680 until the 980 series. Then I got a 1440p monitor, and there is definitely a performance difference from what I was previously running at. At this point, I'm thinking of getting a 780 Ti, but don't know if it is smarter to play the waiting game for the 880. SLI isn't an option for me at the moment, and in research the 780 Ti is definitely much more powerful at this resolution than my 680 is. I can be patient if it is actually worth waiting, but if not I'd rather just buy one now.
Depends on your CPU. If you don't buy a K processor that can be overclocked dont get that Z87 MSI board
Alrighty, I'll PM u when i get the code
Complex Shadow
Cudi Lame
thing is i have no clue where to start when shopping for mother boards. i posted what i am trying to build a couple posts above ( it is a K CPU i5 quad core) but i am not gonna overclock anytime soon.
i remember when i was having trouble installing 8.1, i googled the problem and tuns out i had to do a manual update from the MS website after that everything went fine.
Shadowplay is likely causing alterior issues on the card for you, or your card is going. The fact that
1. you were able to take screenshots of it
2. showed up in a browser when you weren't using shadowplay
highly points to the card being the culprit
Sorry to bump this question so quickly, but my last post asking this question was so long and wasn't directly to the point.
Any keyboard and/or mouse recommendations? I'd like to keep it pretty cheap, if possible. Also a mechanical keyboard is preferred considering that I've mostly heard good things about them in regards to gaming.
How is this mouse? Is 2000 DPI max enough for a 1440p monitor?
Any keyboard and/or mouse recommendations? I'd like to keep it pretty cheap, if possible. Also a mechanical keyboard is preferred considering that I've mostly heard good things about them in regards to gaming.
How is this mouse? Is 2000 DPI max enough for a 1440p monitor?
Well if you have no plans to overclock then you don't need the K and you don't need the Z87. Why don't you want to overclock? It's pretty easy and you get great results out of it.
The Teachinator
Banned
There's a bunch in the OP. Not cheap but I like Das Keyboard and steel series Mice.
Complex Shadow
Cudi Lame
i do want to overclock. but not in near future if i can avoid. its less about ease of use, and more of "meh ill do it tomorrow" thats why i want a mobo that will let me overclock but doesnt need to be anytime soon.
Nostremitus
Member
Please disregard the EOM HP lack of cable management, it's an HP Pavilion Elite and this is how it came off the assembly line. When I install the new parts I'll probably stuff all the extra bits into the unused expansion bay.
1. I'm pretty sure this is just an mATX board rotated 180 degrees, right?
I'll be replacing the mobo and PSU soon (followed shortly by the graphics card) and want to make sure it isn't some HP proprietary board.
2.Should I flip the exhaust fan around into an intake(with added filter) and flip the top-mounted PSU over into an exhaust as heat rises and all?
3. Judging by the size of the case, what type of air cooler am I looking at being able to fit in this case if I want to OC?
Thanks in advance.
1. I'm pretty sure this is just an mATX board rotated 180 degrees, right?
I'll be replacing the mobo and PSU soon (followed shortly by the graphics card) and want to make sure it isn't some HP proprietary board.
2.Should I flip the exhaust fan around into an intake(with added filter) and flip the top-mounted PSU over into an exhaust as heat rises and all?
3. Judging by the size of the case, what type of air cooler am I looking at being able to fit in this case if I want to OC?
Thanks in advance.
What's better: SteelSeries Sensei Raw, Rival, or Kinzu? I'm right handed if it matters.
Also, what's more important: a gaming mouse or gaming keyboard?
In that case you want the Z87 series board. There are a few recommneded in the OP that I used as my starting point. That MSI one you posted earlier is good, as well as the Asus Z87-Pro and a Gigabyte one that should be in the OP as well.
Hopefully others can chime in with better recommendations
How big is your ssd? Typically you would put maybe a few games on the ssd but most would be put on the hdd, since the files are so big.
adamantypants
Member
That's really a personal preference. If you have to ask, you should probably get a 360 or PS3 controller working on your PC
In all seriousness, if you do have to ask, just hold off on buying either one. You'd be spending money to be spending money. Play the games you want to. I've been a console gamer for the past 10 years so getting back into PC meant learning PC controls again. Once you feel like one input is limiting you, upgrade it. For me it was my mouse.
Play some games with your regular kb/m. When one starts to feel like crap for gaming, upgrade it.
Complex Shadow
Cudi Lame
Yea. It also doesn't help to build something while half awake but I vs narrowed it down to this mobo
ASUS Z87-PLUS LGA 1150 Intel Z87 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Mother
And these sticks of ram
G.SKILL F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL
Yeah, I have wired 360 controller for PC but it's one of those crappy Gamestop third-party ones .That's really a personal preference. If you have to ask, you should probably get a 360 or PS3 controller working on your PC
In all seriousness, if you do have to ask, just hold off on buying either one. You'd be spending money to be spending money. Play the games you want to. I've been a console gamer for the past 10 years so getting back into PC meant learning PC controls again. Once you feel like one input is limiting you, upgrade it. For me it was my mouse.
Play some games with your regular kb/m. When one starts to feel like crap for gaming, upgrade it.
Okay, it's not that terrible except for the bumpers.
EDIT:
Or I could of course go with this mouse. It seems relatively good for what will amount to $15 (including tax) for me. Is 2000 DPI alright for 1440p, or too low?
I can't see the RAM link but I'm sure it's fine.
Some people will also recommend you get a microATX board. Might be a good option for you
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
I need some help here folks. Am I right in thinking that my GPU is under-performing?
I'm running an EVGA GTX 780 SC ATX. Here are my benchmarks from heaven and valley. I also can't get a stable overclock to save my life. +50 GPU clock offset at the MOST. I can get heaven/valley benchmarks to run without artifacts at around +75. Crysis 3 will crash at this setting though, regardless of whether or not I apply extra voltage. I'm keeping an eye on temps too and they're pretty much fine. Temps don't exceed 65° without OCing. When OCing they still don't break 65° with the fan curve I have set.
I see people getting between 1450-1550 all day long with this exact same card. I see applying stable OC upwards of +150MHz on the GPU Clock. Am I wrong in thinking something is amiss?
I'm running an EVGA GTX 780 SC ATX. Here are my benchmarks from heaven and valley. I also can't get a stable overclock to save my life. +50 GPU clock offset at the MOST. I can get heaven/valley benchmarks to run without artifacts at around +75. Crysis 3 will crash at this setting though, regardless of whether or not I apply extra voltage. I'm keeping an eye on temps too and they're pretty much fine. Temps don't exceed 65° without OCing. When OCing they still don't break 65° with the fan curve I have set.
I see people getting between 1450-1550 all day long with this exact same card. I see applying stable OC upwards of +150MHz on the GPU Clock. Am I wrong in thinking something is amiss?
roddjbrown
Member
Thanks for this - just when I'd thought now wasn't the right time I'm very tempted again!
120gb
Dice
Pokémon Parentage Conspiracy Theorist
My monitor is dying so I need a new one. The Eizo Foris FG2421 is very temping because colors, contrast, and finally eliminating blur, however...
1) I hear there are crosshatching issues on a lot of them?
2) My computer isn't all that amazing so I don't think I'd get over 60fps often. Does it still benefit?
3) Do I really want to eliminate blur if it hides aliasing as long as I'm moving? lol
1) I hear there are crosshatching issues on a lot of them?
2) My computer isn't all that amazing so I don't think I'd get over 60fps often. Does it still benefit?
3) Do I really want to eliminate blur if it hides aliasing as long as I'm moving? lol
Sword Of Doom
Member
I need some help here folks. Am I right in thinking that my GPU is under-performing?
I'm running an EVGA GTX 780 SC ATX. Here are my benchmarks from heaven and valley. I also can't get a stable overclock to save my life. +50 GPU clock offset at the MOST. I can get heaven/valley benchmarks to run without artifacts at around +75. Crysis 3 will crash at this setting though, regardless of whether or not I apply extra voltage. I'm keeping an eye on temps too and they're pretty much fine. Temps don't exceed 65° without OCing. When OCing they still don't break 65° with the fan curve I have set.
I see people getting between 1450-1550 all day long with this exact same card. I see applying stable OC upwards of +150MHz on the GPU Clock. Am I wrong in thinking something is amiss?
Your valley result seems fine. Maybe those people are not using the stock bios.
After realising that I don't really need a proper tower case anymore as I keep everything besides the core components and an SSD externally these days, I'd been scouting about for a nice mATX case to slim down to. Had my eye on a couple of Silverstone ones when I came across the Fractal Design Node 304...and fell in love. At first I didn't even entertain that I could stick my 3770k and R9 290 into something like that but after reading a few reviews I found the overclock.net owners thread where folks are indeed happily running just those sorts of extreme builds. So I'm joining the iTX club and treating myself to a Node 304, Asus P8Z77-I plus splashing out on a fancy Noctua cooler and fans.
I'm pretty sure I've done my homework and the only thing I'm now concerned about is swapping out the motherboard and Windows throwing a wobbler. I'm running Windows 8.1 and only did a fresh install a couple of weeks ago so doing another wouldn't be that much hassle really. But I'd rather not if possible mainly due to bloody Uplay forcing me to download all my games again. My current board is an Asus P8Z77-M and I'm changing to an Asus P8Z77-I, so it's about as like-for-like spec and chipset wise as you can get.
Anyone here swapped out a motherboard and kept their Windows install? Googling just brings up the usual extremes of it's no problem at all these days and might just have to reactivate Windows. Or your system will just become an unstable mess and a full reinstall is the only option.
I'm pretty sure I've done my homework and the only thing I'm now concerned about is swapping out the motherboard and Windows throwing a wobbler. I'm running Windows 8.1 and only did a fresh install a couple of weeks ago so doing another wouldn't be that much hassle really. But I'd rather not if possible mainly due to bloody Uplay forcing me to download all my games again. My current board is an Asus P8Z77-M and I'm changing to an Asus P8Z77-I, so it's about as like-for-like spec and chipset wise as you can get.
Anyone here swapped out a motherboard and kept their Windows install? Googling just brings up the usual extremes of it's no problem at all these days and might just have to reactivate Windows. Or your system will just become an unstable mess and a full reinstall is the only option.
This is pretty much it. Your main concern will be if the hard disk controllers are different on the two boards. All the other devices on the motherboard will either work or require you to get the drivers once you're booted.
Basically, Windows will have the driver for your old hard disk controller installed and it'll try to use it to access your boot device when you boot on your new board. If the controllers are sufficiently different, then the driver wont be suitable and Windows will probably fault. This has been a problem with Windows since forever.
One of the reason it's less of a problem nowadays is that PCs all have Intel controllers and they provide a unified driver. I also suggest you make sure that the disk controller is set to the same mode (AHCI, ATA or LEGACY or similar) in the BIOS/UEFI of both old and new systems. Changing the controller mode after installing Windows will cause the same issue as changing controllers. Your boards are almost identical, so you've a good chance it'll work.
Yeah and give us the final clocks not the offsets.
I run +200/+200 on stock volts of 1.16v for 1100/3200mhz. Modded bios to prevent boost clocks from down clocking when hitting the power limit.
You won't have an issue. I've swapped like this z77-x58-z68-x79-h61 on Win 7 lol. Win 8 is more clever than Win 7 when swapping mobos. I prefer starting fresh to avoid any random problems though.
Normal, they run hot and Furmark is incredibly extreme. There is no need to be running furmark, unless you want to try and damage the card nowadays. Unigene/3Dmark is good enough for stability testing. Is this a reference blower cooler or aftermarket gpu cooler?
Not seen my MSI 290 go above 65 degrees in my Define R4 so that does seem a bit on the warm side. I've barely played anything other than Grid 2 and Rayman Origins since I installed it though, so probably not pushed it enough yet.
What CPU do you have and are you happy with your Node set-up then? I'll have mine tomorrow so I'll get it built over the weekend. Should be interesting and a bit of a headache I suspect... But building had become boring these days so I'm looking forward to a bit of a challenge.
Shame iTX motherboards are shockingly priced for what they are. My Asus has set me back £125 as the other manufactures Z77 models weren't much cop for overclocking and have the CPU sockets too close to the PCI-E slot. I think the Z87's were better but there's no point in me changing my 3770k at the moment.
Objectively Bad Opinion
Member
100C is too hot for an aftermarket card. Cards usually hit power limit in Furmark before they get that hot. And 90C during 3DMark is anomalous as well. It should be below/around 75 (unless you live in the Gobi)
The heatsink probably isn't seated properly.
The heatsink probably isn't seated properly.
Cheers both. I'll back a few things up on my current install and check the disk controller as recommended, then just stick the current components onto the new MB, boot up and see what happens.
I bought my Windows 8.1 key from someone on Reddit, though Will I be able to re-activate or re-use the key if needs?
Sword Of Doom
Member
Have you tinkered with the fan curve? Can make a big difference
Yeah should be ok, may need to do the phone activation.
Nostremitus
Member
Would suggest a new case honestly, those hp cases def cook components. A matx board will work, I did this in an hp, the new board mounted fine, just such a small hot case for a decent pc
the NZXT Source 210 is a great budget case
heres mine prior to swapping from my hp case for comparison, can even fit a hyper 212 in the 210
Thanks, yeah, I really hate the case, and if I weren't on an incredibly tight budget I would replace it.
That said, I'm still planning a new build for a proper gaming PC. This one will mainly be used for schoolwork, internet, indie games, and Baldurs Gate EE 1&2 but it's been having issues lately and I found out there was a recall on the mobo that HP had extended the warranty until this past February to replace it due to the exact problems I'm having. HP just didn't feel the need to email the customers who'd registered their products to let us know about it. It has an AM3 board with a Phenom II X6 in it. I'm not gonna change the CPU right now due to intended use and budget constraints. I'll save that money for the real build as these will be stop-gap upgrades to extend this one's life a bit and let my wife play some retro and indie games without needing to use the good PC.
Anyway. I'm looking at this mobo because it has 4 Memory slots and HP chose a 4x2 configuration. It's AM3+, so if I ever do feel the need to upgrade the CPU in the future, I can... Somewhat... I highly doubt that'll happen, but it leaves my options open for the least upfront cost. I'd like to replace everything with Intel, but that's not in the cards. When I say budget constrained, I mean to say I need the cheapest possible solution.
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-motherboard-ga78lmtusb3
And I'll probably get the cheapest r7 250 I can find with gddr5 memory.
Thanks for the answers! Nothing to worry about then. I'll look into the fan curve!
It's not the most well ventilated case but it's small and surely enough a small challenge to fit everything in.
To sum it up: small, not the best soundproofing (not too noicy, I sit like half a meter away), good looking.
Make sure that your PSU fits in there along with the GPU as it can be kind of tight.
It's not the most well ventilated case but it's small and surely enough a small challenge to fit everything in.
To sum it up: small, not the best soundproofing (not too noicy, I sit like half a meter away), good looking.
Make sure that your PSU fits in there along with the GPU as it can be kind of tight.
I'm not convinced about the fan curve you know... I have an MSI 290 which is essentially the same card but a bit beefier and I've not seen it go over 65-70 degrees and not touched the default fan curve. Bigger case but the Define R4 is not that well ventilated either and certainly shouldn't cause that big a descrepancy between our temps. Hope you get it sorted anyway.
Thanks for the input on the 304 and I'm still wondering about my PSU actually. Current one is a Seasonic M12II 520w non-modular which is 140mm long. So size won't be an issue but I'm still concerned about cabling being non-modular. I really would like to maximise airflow as much as poss in the limited space so might yet pony up for a modular G-550w.
Can excess PSU cables be stuck behind the front panel underneath the fans? I see some folk are putting SSD's there...
Darryl M R
Member
So I'm normally a console player, if I like the controller feel to gaming what games should I avoid on a PC?
I really want to build a PC for The Division but I heard bad things about controllers on a shooter game. Also would there be anyway to synchronize my PC monitor to my TV so that I could play my PC but relax on my couch (this is assuming I can't hook up my PC to my television).
Sorry for the sincere ignorance but I am really interested in the potential of PC gaming.
I really want to build a PC for The Division but I heard bad things about controllers on a shooter game. Also would there be anyway to synchronize my PC monitor to my TV so that I could play my PC but relax on my couch (this is assuming I can't hook up my PC to my television).
Sorry for the sincere ignorance but I am really interested in the potential of PC gaming.
After talking to a friend who has been out of PC gaming for years he is beginning to show an interest in coming back to it. I've sold him on the idea of a steambox type pc connected to his HDTV he can use In Home Streaming to then stream mouse&keyboard dependant games to his laptop.
He really wants to spend no more than £400 on the PC itself (excluding controllers, kbam, windows etc) and so far I've hastily come up with this:
In total it comes to £410 which is pretty good going. Can I do better?
I know you're going to suggest an i3 over the 6350 but is this still relevant with current ports?
He really wants to spend no more than £400 on the PC itself (excluding controllers, kbam, windows etc) and so far I've hastily come up with this:
In total it comes to £410 which is pretty good going. Can I do better?
I know you're going to suggest an i3 over the 6350 but is this still relevant with current ports?
After talking to a friend who has been out of PC gaming for years he is beginning to show an interest in coming back to it. I've sold him on the idea of a steambox type pc connected to his HDTV he can use In Home Streaming to then stream mouse&keyboard dependant games to his laptop.
He really wants to spend no more than £400 on the PC itself (excluding controllers, kbam, windows etc) and so far I've hastily come up with this:
In total it comes to £410 which is pretty good going. Can I do better?
I know you're going to suggest an i3 over the 6350 but is this still relevant with current ports?
Correct me if I'm wrong but if you're using a mATX board, wouldn't it make more sense to use a mATX case?
Yeah I noticed that as I posted. I can swap out the case for something of a similar price no biggie
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