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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
- Thread starter Hazaro
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eBay Huckster
Member
a month after haswell refresh would mean mid-June tho
adamantypants
Member
Pretty sure nobody here has the D15. As of right now it's still not available in American retailers. I know. I was checking every single day on four different websites. Eventually I gave up waiting for it and got a Phanteks instead.Anyone have any experience with the Noctua NH-D15 and non-LP RAM such as Corsair Vengeance? Noctua's website claims "Thanks to its recessed lower fins, the NH-D15 provides 64mm clearance for tall memory heatsinks in single fan mode, making it compatible with most high end RAM modules on the market. In dual fan mode, the NH-D15 should be used with standard height RAM (up to 32mm).*"
http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/cooling/69073-noctua-nh-d15/
The above review claims "The only small issue we ran into during installation was that the outer 140mm fan had to be attached at a higher point, as a result of our tall Corsair Vengeance Pro memory modules."
Thoughts?I wish I bought low profile ram
As far as your actual question, from everything I've seen, the outer fan will kill the ram clearance if you mount it level with the other fan. It looked like some boards were okay with the first 2 ram slots but the third slot was iffy. You have the option of just not mounting that fan at the cost of maybe 2-3C higher temps (I can't remember the exact benchmarks).
In any case, if you go with an air cooler and want dual fans, you're probably gonna have to remove your heat spreaders. My Phanteks cooler is awesome, except for the fact that it hogs space and makes working with ram impossible. I had to remove the heat spreaders on my ram just to make it fit.
MWS Natural
Member
So I purchased a new case and Seasonic platinum fanless PSU as I planned to take my old PC and turn it into an HTPC for the living room. I just finished the build but I'm getting no power at all from the PSU.
What I've tried so far:
Reseated the MB and CPU cables
Unplugged everything put the MB and CPU
Tried different cables and outlets
Tried different plugs on the PSU for each cable
Checked the "power button" on the MB
Flip the switch back and forth to "reset" it
Any other suggestions?
What I've tried so far:
Reseated the MB and CPU cables
Unplugged everything put the MB and CPU
Tried different cables and outlets
Tried different plugs on the PSU for each cable
Checked the "power button" on the MB
Flip the switch back and forth to "reset" it
Any other suggestions?
adamantypants
Member
Paperclip test that PSU. If it fails, time to RMA
edit: Damn, forgot fanless. Is there a power led? The paperclip test is most obvious because the fans kick on.
edit: Damn, forgot fanless. Is there a power led? The paperclip test is most obvious because the fans kick on.
The Gigabyte rep in our showroom yesterday wasn't giving anything solid, but he did say it would "definitely be within the month".bad news maybe it's a rumor but Nordic hardware say devil canyon i5-4690K et i7-4790K will be for august or september
http://www.nordichardware.se/CPU/Styrkrets/papperslansering-av-devils-canyon-intels-nya-oeverklockningsprocessorer-kan-droeja-till-september.html
bad news maybe it's a rumor but Nordic hardware say devil canyon i5-4690K et i7-4790K will be for august or september
http://www.nordichardware.se/CPU/Styrkrets/papperslansering-av-devils-canyon-intels-nya-oeverklockningsprocessorer-kan-droeja-till-september.html
Let's just wait for Computex. lol
I have a feeling the extra cost on the TIM is being passed down through the boards. I remember Intel saying they saved a ton of money by using TIM over solder. And I'm super doubtful that broadwell will work on Z97 considering they have already run 2 cycles of CPU on this socket. Broadwell should be a new architecture which usually means a new socket.
Ted
Member
Sorry to totally lower the tone of the thread but I want to pick up a cheap machine for my other half to replace our now defunct desktop and have little to no consumer hardware knowledge anymore...
She basically:
- watches streaming TV (Netflix, iPlayer, NowTV);
- skypes;
- plays app store type games (nothing more demanding than Minecraft (unmodded);
- browses the internet;
- occasional Office/home accounting stuff.
Will an AMD A6-5200 APU be up to the job?
Thanks in advance for any replies/help.
She basically:
- watches streaming TV (Netflix, iPlayer, NowTV);
- skypes;
- plays app store type games (nothing more demanding than Minecraft (unmodded);
- browses the internet;
- occasional Office/home accounting stuff.
Will an AMD A6-5200 APU be up to the job?
Thanks in advance for any replies/help.
You definitely want to upgrade before Watch Dogs is released? I'm only the slightest bit reluctant to recommend the standard 770 as some games are close to pushing the borders of its VRAM capacity (modded Skyrim, for example, can be an issue). That and the 280X can be had for cheaper (balancing out even with the Watch Dogs bundle). The XFX model has a $20 rebate last I checked bringing its total final price to $279 and you could probably sell the game bundle. They're both great cards, of course, and I'd probably recommend looking into the 290 before a 4GB 770 right now, but I would pick a non-reference 280X over the 770 if overall price difference with all things accounted for is miniscule either way and Nvidia features are not a factor. Either choice should be fine however, but people will have differing opinions on VRAM amount.
Edit: Newegg link if you're in the U.S. - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150678
Rawket Lawnchair
Member
I absolutely love mine.
jfoul
Member
Amazon $379.99 - $30 Rebate = $349.99 XFX Double D R9 290
Did some more research on stability testing. Still planning on using Prime95 like was mentioned before, but I'm curious what everyone thinks of IntelBurnTest and LinX. Also curious what people's takes are on stability testing the GPU and CPU simultaneously and what they recommend for GPU stability testing.
Supply has probably waaaaaay overtaken demand.That is incredible.
Indeed I'm still holding out, 5 months from now I'm expecting it to be quite cheap.
Thats whats funny about this kind of product, it may be on sale now but it will only get cheaper.
Side note: does that 290 have any cooling issues, i was looking at the sapphire one with like 3 fans on. But its like $70 bucks more than that. But if its got the better cooling its worth it.
Right, so I'm almost all set for a new PC build to replace my aging (and huge) Fractal R3 tower. I'm hoping to be able use this as both a HTPC/Games machine/general purpose windows box.
Two things are still worrying me with regards to connecting to my TV though -
1. I've got a nice Panny plasma, but it has no options for setting RGB input to full, only limited. Is this likely to be a problem?
2. I route everything at the moment through a Marantz 5.1 AV amp. Can modern GPUs run 5.1 audio over HDMI, or will I have to run a separate SPDIF from the sound card to the amp? Is this likely to cause problems?
Two things are still worrying me with regards to connecting to my TV though -
1. I've got a nice Panny plasma, but it has no options for setting RGB input to full, only limited. Is this likely to be a problem?
2. I route everything at the moment through a Marantz 5.1 AV amp. Can modern GPUs run 5.1 audio over HDMI, or will I have to run a separate SPDIF from the sound card to the amp? Is this likely to cause problems?
That Wont Fit In There
Member
Does anyone mind educating me on overclocking? I was told that I will be doing this since I will be streaming on twitch. I'd really appreciate it.
PCGAF - I know the answer already, but these System Care programs are worthless, right? To the average person who reads a PC topic on NeoGAF and understands it, anyway.
Well, just looking at that grammar, I would say it is some kind of scam or malware.
According to this review, the XFX version actually cools even better (at their stock fan profiles) than the Sapphire Tri-X, but it also gets a bit louder.
1) I think Panny and Samsung don't label RGB setting explicitly as RGB settings in their menus. I think they're labeled as "Black Level" menu items or something. Do a google search on AVSforum or something (and I'm sure someone here with a Panny can tell you, I have a Pioneer which DOES say RGB explicitly).
In any case, if you have a Nvidia card there's no explicit Nvidia Control Panel setting to set the HDMI output RGB range. The setting for RGB output in the Nvidia CC is only for video playback and not desktop/graphics rendering. Why Nvidia hasn't fixed this yet is beyond me. There's a utility I use that automates editing the registry to enable full RGB after the drivers are installed. You can get it here:
http://blog.metaclassofnil.com/?p=83
You need to run this and retoggle RGB full every time you install a new driver version as far as I can tell (but perhaps that's just because I do a clean install each time).
2) All modern cards can run 5.1 audio via their HDMI outputs as far as I know. I have shortcuts on my desktop to switch between my main computer monitor and plasma tv, but unfortunately I can't get switching between my desktop audio card and the HDMI audio output to automate. I always have to go into Windows audio settings and change the audio output device manually when I switch back and forth. A bit annoying, but not a deal breaker - though it would be nice to find a solution.
Going back to your first question, you'll also want to check your Marantz's settings and see if it needs to be set explicitly to properly pass RGB Full if you switch everything to RGB full. My Denon receiver (about three years old now) has to be told whether inputs are RGB full or limited, and it's a global and either/or setting which is annoying (ie. this means need EVERYTHING connected to it via HDMI - PC, PS3, PS4 - to be set to full RGB even when I'd prefer limited on the PS3). Newer AV receivers may be better about this so you may have more options.
Hey guys, I was going to get a laptop that would serve a dual purpose of letting me game and do schoolwork, but its not working well within my budget so I was thinking I'd get a desktop and laptop combo instead. I'm mainly here for the desktop portion.
My current desktop specs:
Motherboard
Ram
Power supply(I have the 600 watt according to order history on Newegg)
Videocard
CPU
DVD Drive
I'm thinking I can keep the DVD drive and the Power Supply from the old machine to the new.
Budget: 1000 or so. USA
Main Use: Gaming, Schoolwork(Programming)/General usage
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080(32 inch tv)
When will you build? Hopefully next week
Do you have a deadline? No
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe(YES)
Mostly I want to be able to run games relatively well. May have a bigger budget, but not sure yet.
My current desktop specs:
Motherboard
Ram
Power supply(I have the 600 watt according to order history on Newegg)
Videocard
CPU
DVD Drive
I'm thinking I can keep the DVD drive and the Power Supply from the old machine to the new.
Budget: 1000 or so. USA
Main Use: Gaming, Schoolwork(Programming)/General usage
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080(32 inch tv)
When will you build? Hopefully next week
Do you have a deadline? No
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe(YES)
Mostly I want to be able to run games relatively well. May have a bigger budget, but not sure yet.
Great info, thanks. Just to clarify though, I think it's Limited I want to be able to set my PC to (if possible), rather than full range.
Actually it might be a moot point anyway - just searched the manual for black level and found this -
Changes the black level of the image for HDMI input mode with DVI input signal
manually [Normal] / [Full]
● When the DVI input signal from the external equipment (especially from PC) is
displayed, the black level may not be suitable. In this case, select [Full].
● The black level for HDMI input signal will be adjusted automatically.
● For HDMI input mode with DVI input signal
Oh thats cool, thanks
Edit:
When i look at the same card on new egg i see multiple version of the XFX 290 but i cant see whats actually different except that one is more expensive...
You could keep your RAM too. What about your HDD?
Programming wise, is the software you use RAM intensive?
Could start here for instance http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3OQ35 Room in your budget too if you would prefer a modular PSU.
The more expensive one is the black edition. It's the same thing, but comes clocked a bit higher out of the box.
So overclocking my 4670k, have no problems running prime 95 upto 4.1 GHz, above that and the temps go 80degs +, which is too high? I don't know.
My OC involves just sliding the multiplier to 41, what else can I do to get it higher?
Also, memory speeds. As I have 1866 mem do I just set that as1.866 in Bios, or should I go lower, currently at 1333 I think?
Btw this thread is great.
My OC involves just sliding the multiplier to 41, what else can I do to get it higher?
Also, memory speeds. As I have 1866 mem do I just set that as1.866 in Bios, or should I go lower, currently at 1333 I think?
Btw this thread is great.
80-85c is as high as you want to go.
To get it higher you can play with the voltage too.
Have a read at this http://www.overclock.net/t/1411077/haswell-overclocking-guide-with-statistics
If your memory is XMP enabled you can just enable that in the UEFI.
Ah i see, thanks again.
80 degrees is pretty normal for Haswell. Try increasing the volts, as well as setting "Load Line Calibration" to high or extreme. That should give you enough for 4.2 to 4.3 GHz. 90s are even okay for Prime 95. Gaming temperatures are going to be much much lower.
For your memory, just enable XMP in the memory settings.
*edit* So beat, but Kharma can't handle the spice.
iRAWRasaurus
Banned
Hey I have a few questions about setting up 3 monitors since I never did it before. On my computer I have a HD 7970 card and I am using both DVI slots to connect to my 2 monitors. I wanted to hook up my computer to my tv next to it and use it as a 3rd monitor. I thought I could just hook up a hdmi cord and plug it into my tv but it won't let me. After searching the web I discover I need an display port. It has to be an active and not a passive display port right? Does it matter if it has a hdmi, Dvi end? And if I get the active display port with dvi, I can use the hdmi port on my video are as well?
Any adapter dongle should do the trick. Your video card probably came with one. You only need the active dongle if you want 120Hz or higher res. For 60Hz/1080p, a passive works just fine. I've used passive adapters for both DVI and HDMI connections off of various 7970s.
iRAWRasaurus
Banned
Thanks! My tv is 1080p/120 Hz, would this matter if I just get a passive adapter? And this is for 3 monitors right? Just want to confirm since I thought I could just get a hdmi and plug it in
iRAWRasaurus
Banned
Ahh okay thanks for the clarification.
Yup, they're all 60Hz. There isn't a TV in existence that actually takes a 120Hz signal natively.
Not necessarily true. There's a handful of TVs that will take 120Hz input with a bit of fussing, and a good dela more that will do it with some forcing from the driver side of the PC.
The new Vizio P Series will accept 120Hz inputs over HDMI natively with no hassle.
Nvidia, like I said, outputs RGB Limited by default on its HDMI outputs so you wouldn't have to do anything.
Notice I said natively : P
*edit*
Wait wait, HDMI spec 1.3 does not support 120hz/1080p. You sure about this on the Vizio?
Sword Of Doom
Member
Man that's cheap for an amazing card. That cooler looks so similar to the ACX cooler by EVGA. But yeah, at this point the 290 is the way to go. Let's see if nVidia responds.
NoRéN;113016469 said:
I believe the 770 is a rebranded 680, so anything higher (780, 780Ti, etc) would be a step up. I think you are better off waiting for the next-gen though.
Cooling wise, I'd say it's fine because otherwise they wouldn't give it to you. After-market HSFs are only for overclockers.
Noise is another factor though...I doubt the stock HSF is loud at all, but if you really wanted something quieter, there are some better options.
NoRéN;113016469 said:
A 780 will give you (roughly) a 30% boost in real-world, average fps; the Ti is closer to 50%.
Most modern games have better SLI scaling than that so you're probably better off tracking down another 680 if your system can handle it.
Honestly, just tough it out until Maxwell.
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