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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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Thanks. I have fairly good speakers already though I need to get new ones at some point.


Thanks, will think about it. I've been kind of skeptical of SLI/Crossfire but I guess it's mainly because I haven't really read about it that much yet.
If you do plan on video editing a lot, you're gonna want whatever VRAM you're okay with paying for. If you're already thinking about SLI, maybe just bump that PSU up to 850w just so it's not a headache later on.
 

Stubo

Member
Thanks, will think about it. I've been kind of skeptical of SLI/Crossfire but I guess it's mainly because I haven't really read about it that much yet.
I'm not entirely sure you actually need that much power for what you're intending to use it for, but if you're going to drop that kind of money I'd say that's the better option.

The 780Ti is a great alternative, but it's more expensive which took it out of the reach of suggesting an SLI build for that. You could get 1 and see how it works for you, with that motherboard and power supply you always have the option to add another if you're hungry for more frames.

I'm not sure when the 6Gb variants are due out, but that's worth thinking about if you're worried about Watchdogs etc.
 
Thanks. I have fairly good speakers already though I need to get new ones at some point.


Thanks, will think about it. I've been kind of skeptical of SLI/Crossfire but I guess it's mainly because I haven't really read about it that much yet.

You're right to be skeptical about SLI.
 

LilJoka

Member
Thanks. I have fairly good speakers already though I need to get new ones at some point.


Thanks, will think about it. I've been kind of skeptical of SLI/Crossfire but I guess it's mainly because I haven't really read about it that much yet.

I would not use the H80i, get a proper air cooler like a D14 or Silver Arrow for silent performance. Plus quality control on the Hydro coolers is AWFUL.

Dont bother with the 2133Mhz ram, the current bandwidth from 1600 CAS 9 is not being taken advantage of. Get something like Corsair Vengence LP Black CAS 9 1.5v.

Get a Seasonic 850 X Series Platinum PSU. A PSU for life.

I dont like running SLI, and Xfire id recommend even less. AMD arent as bad as portrayed on the driver side, but their Xfire performance is significantly lagging behind nVidia, which again have better results in some games compared to others. Its hit and miss.

GPU VRam is a big thing since Watch_Dogs, so a 290X 4GB is a good choice.
 

LilJoka

Member
I'm getting second thoughts about buying a new PC this summer because everything nice (Broadwell, DDR4, Nvidia 8xx cards with hopefully more VRAM and less power usage) won't be consumer ready until a year from now at the earliest, and basically EVERYTHING out right now is 1-2 years old stagnated hardware. This isn't a simple matter of "better things always come out right around the corner", but actual huge differences in terms of longevity.

As much as it hurts to still use a CPU from Q1 2008 and a mid range graphics card from 2010, I feel like I'd heavily regret buying one now.

DDR4 not going to be a game changer. Will be quite expensive for atleast a year.
Haswell E - Game changer in the very long term, likely out of your price range as its enthusiast range.
Broadwell - Unlikely game changer, 10-15% improvement on Haswell clock for clock.
nVidia GTX 880 is rumored to sit between GTX 780 and GTX 780Ti, again 8 series is not looking like the step we hoped.
VRAM yes we need more, mainly because it looks like console devs are throwing unoptomised code on PC from consoles that have access to ~5GB VRAM. Witcher 3 wont need more than 3GB VRAM i bet.
 

Stubo

Member
I would not use the H80i, get a proper air cooler like a D14 or Silver Arrow for silent performance. Plus quality control on the Hydro coolers is AWFUL.

Dont bother with the 2133Mhz ram, the current bandwidth from 1600 CAS 9 is not being taken advantage of. Get something like Corsair Vengence LP Black CAS 9 1.5v.

Get a Seasonic 850 X Series Platinum PSU. A PSU for life.

I dont like running SLI, and Xfire id recommend even less. AMD arent as bad as portrayed on the driver side, but their Xfire performance is significantly lagging behind nVidia, which again have better results in some games compared to others. Its hit and miss.

GPU VRam is a big thing since Watch_Dogs, so a 290X 4GB is a good choice.
Huge heatsinks are a pain to work around, this is fine if you're experienced and won't have to tinker with bits, but for a first time build could prove to be a pain - otherwise I do agree that the NF-D14 is an absolute beast.

The RAM is extremely well priced, which is basically the reason behind the recommendation (actually cheaper than the LP 1600mhz).

The PSU was chosen based on the rave reviews linked in this thread, great performance for the price.

Agree about the SLI and crossfire stuff, it's always better to have a single card. People are freaking out too much about one game, however 4Gb will be useful for more games in the future too.
 
Hmm, the only place I know of that's reputable for Slovenia is AGT, so I've based this on their pricing for you:

CartForDefender_Slovenia_zps6faefa72.png



TOTAL = €849,82

That gets you an i5-4670k (with a cooler which you forgot to include on the AMD build and would have been necessary for overclocking), 8GB RAM, 120GB SSD and 1TB Hard Drive, along with a good case and power supply with the R9 270 graphics card too. Even managed to squeeze in the DVD drive you had on there.

Wow, that's awesome of you. Thanks for taking the time and effort, i greatly appreciate it!

The prices are great too. Unfortunately, while looking for customer impressions on AGT, i found a thread on a well known local tech forum and it seems AGT isn't doing so well lately. They have a lot of unhappy customers who warn others of buying at AGT. From what i gather their delivery times are awful and can take weeks (sometimes months), with endless excuses as to why they haven't received the parts yet. I guess there's a reason why their website doesn't list avaliability. Apparently this has been going on for at least the last few years. As good as your configuration and the price for it look, i don't think i would want to put up with that and i guess i'll have to stick with Comshop, who are pricey, but reputable. At least i can get to their store easily and give them hell if something's wrong, while AGT is a good 2 hour drive away from my location.


By the way, regarding the cooler, forgive the noobish question, but i thought i included one at the bottom of my list (SPIRE SP994S1-V1), or do i need another one?

Another question, let's say that i skip the SSD for now and use the savings for one of these options:

- keep the FX-8320 and get a slightly better graphics card
- get the I5-4670K and keep the current graphics card
- get a slightly lesser/cheaper I5 processor and a better graphics card

Which one of these would be preferrable?
 

Smokey

Member
Thanks. I have fairly good speakers already though I need to get new ones at some point.


Thanks, will think about it. I've been kind of skeptical of SLI/Crossfire but I guess it's mainly because I haven't really read about it that much yet.

You should only go SLI when a single card can't handle what you want to do. At 1080p you wouldn't have that issue with a titan or 780ti.
 

LilJoka

Member
Huge heatsinks are a pain to work around, this is fine if you're experienced and won't have to tinker with bits, but for a first time build could prove to be a pain - otherwise I do agree that the NF-D14 is an absolute beast.

The RAM is extremely well priced, which is basically the reason behind the recommendation (actually cheaper than the LP 1600mhz).

The PSU was chosen based on the rave reviews linked in this thread, great performance for the price.

Agree about the SLI and crossfire stuff, it's always better to have a single card. People are freaking out too much about one game, however 4Gb will be useful for more games in the future too.

How much work do you need to do around a large heatsink? Install the RAM first then the Heatsink. Plug the 8pin CPU Power, plug the 24pin. Its really not any more difficult. And installation of the cooler is just 4 screws and a bracket. All us noobs used air coolers with more stupid brackets before corsair hydro came out and had no problems. Corsair system looks easy, that is it. People oh big cooler, lots of screws etc, its not a big deal at all.

The only reason to get a Corsair H cooler is for aesthetics or space requirements, which is not a problem in ATX.

Ive now used the H80i, in my current system, and the Silver Arrow IBE Extreme cooler. Both perform similarly, except at idle/gaming the H80i is much louder, which is annoying when you spend 2-3k on a system. I deliberated a lot on going on air, corsair stuff is last resort if you care about noise/performance/reliability > aesthetics.

Now for some reason now my H80i is causing my CPU to over heat, when previously it loaded at 75c. I dont trust corsair one bit anymore. If you really want water, get an XSPC kit, atleast it will give you consistent performance, and not be constantly RMA'ing your Corsair product due to shoddy QC. Corsair forum is full of problems too, they cant even get the correct voltage to the LEDs so they die after some period.

On the RAM, i suggested the 2x8Gb kit even though it is slightly more expensive to save the 2 slots for future expansion if ever needed. Worth it when spending this kind of money.
 

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
Phanteks Enthoo Pro cases are now for sale!

Great value for the money. $99 for windowed, $89 for non-window.

Window

No window

I will most likely be picking a non-window version of this up for my future build instead of the 350D I was looking at before.
 

Mine01

Member
Hi guys, i have a "beefy"? pc my specs are:

HD 7770 amd.
i7 2600
8gb ram


My monitor (tv) is 720p so i do most of my gaming at 720p.

Should i get a better graphic card or is this ok for this year/early 2015?

Also what good games are coming to pc this year (im mostly interesed in the witcher 3 next year.)
 

Stubo

Member
How much work do you need to do around a large heatsink? Install the RAM first then the Heatsink. Plug the 8pin CPU Power, plug the 24pin. Its really not any more difficult. And installation of the cooler is just 4 screws and a bracket. All us noobs used air coolers with more stupid brackets before corsair hydro came out and had no problems. Corsair system looks easy, that is it. People oh big cooler, lots of screws etc, its not a big deal at all.

The only reason to get a Corsair H cooler is for aesthetics or space requirements, which is not a problem in ATX.

Ive now used the H80i, in my current system, and the Silver Arrow IBE Extreme cooler. Both perform similarly, except at idle/gaming the H80i is much louder, which is annoying when you spend 2-3k on a system. I deliberated a lot on going on air, corsair stuff is last resort if you care about noise/performance/reliability > aesthetics.

Now for some reason now my H80i is causing my CPU to over heat, when previously it loaded at 75c. I dont trust corsair one bit anymore. If you really want water, get an XSPC kit, atleast it will give you consistent performance, and not be constantly RMA'ing your Corsair product due to shoddy QC. Corsair forum is full of problems too, they cant even get the correct voltage to the LEDs so they die after some period.

On the RAM, i suggested the 2x8Gb kit even though it is slightly more expensive to save the 2 slots for future expansion if ever needed. Worth it when spending this kind of money.
Fair enough, I do love Noctua stuff so I'll struggle to question your judgement.

While 16Gb of RAM should really be sufficient, future expansion is never a bad thing so that makes sense too :)
 

Smokey

Member
The only reason to get a Corsair H cooler is for aesthetics or space requirements, which is not a problem in ATX.

Ive now used the H80i, in my current system, and the Silver Arrow IBE Extreme cooler. Both perform similarly, except at idle/gaming the H80i is much louder, which is annoying when you spend 2-3k on a system. I deliberated a lot on going on air, corsair stuff is last resort if you care about noise/performance/reliability > aesthetics.

Now for some reason now my H80i is causing my CPU to over heat, when previously it loaded at 75c. I dont trust corsair one bit anymore. If you really want water, get an XSPC kit, atleast it will give you consistent performance, and not be constantly RMA'ing your Corsair product due to shoddy QC. Corsair forum is full of problems too, they cant even get the correct voltage to the LEDs so they die after some period.

On the RAM, i suggested the 2x8Gb kit even though it is slightly more expensive to save the 2 slots for future expansion if ever needed. Worth it when spending this kind of money.

Ease of working in the case is pretty huge. I've also used Corsair hydro series for awhile. h60,h100,h80i (current) , and have a h100i on the way. I have a Seasonic Platinum 1000w that I have to RMA due to some kind of short. It's regarded as one of the best PSUs out. It happens.
 

LilJoka

Member
Ease of working in the case is pretty huge. I've also used Corsair hydro series for awhile. h60,h100,h80i (current) , and have a h100i on the way. I have a Seasonic Platinum 1000w that I have to RMA due to some kind of short. It's regarded as one of the best PSUs out. It happens.

The number of complaints on their forums is too much to be an "it happens" thing. People RMA'ing left right and centre. I havent got time for that. In all the PCs that ive built, and parts ive even laid my hands on whilst at work, this is the first product to cause me an issue. I remember at work one of our Corsair H series coolers had the bolt ripped apart.... Compare that to the 2 screws that hold my Silver Arrow Extreme down, quality really shows.

You dont hear Seasonics dying everywhere, and they also provide a 5 year warranty.

Some things that really piss me off about the Hydro coolers:
The backplate doesnt fit properly on all boards, so you dont get enough pressure on the CPU for a good mount. Need to add nylon washers in to fix it.
The backplate direction matters, putting it the wrong way drops performance significantly. No mention in the manual.
LED failures
Corsair Link - Awful slow software, breaks on wake from sleep.
Having to upgrade firmwares on the cooler...
Pump is not provided a regulated 12v supply, therefore if your PSU supplies above 12v, it can cause pump failure/grind/noise.

If you can tell me things like this for a tower air cooler, then ill agree its a more difficult job to get right lol.
 

Stubo

Member
The EVGA Supernova has a 10 year warranty for what it's worth!

When it's time for me to build a new PC it's going to be on my radar in a big way, it seems like an absolute bargain.
 

tarheel91

Member
How much work do you need to do around a large heatsink? Install the RAM first then the Heatsink. Plug the 8pin CPU Power, plug the 24pin. Its really not any more difficult. And installation of the cooler is just 4 screws and a bracket. All us noobs used air coolers with more stupid brackets before corsair hydro came out and had no problems. Corsair system looks easy, that is it. People oh big cooler, lots of screws etc, its not a big deal at all.

The only reason to get a Corsair H cooler is for aesthetics or space requirements, which is not a problem in ATX.

Ive now used the H80i, in my current system, and the Silver Arrow IBE Extreme cooler. Both perform similarly, except at idle/gaming the H80i is much louder, which is annoying when you spend 2-3k on a system. I deliberated a lot on going on air, corsair stuff is last resort if you care about noise/performance/reliability > aesthetics.

Now for some reason now my H80i is causing my CPU to over heat, when previously it loaded at 75c. I dont trust corsair one bit anymore. If you really want water, get an XSPC kit, atleast it will give you consistent performance, and not be constantly RMA'ing your Corsair product due to shoddy QC. Corsair forum is full of problems too, they cant even get the correct voltage to the LEDs so they die after some period.

On the RAM, i suggested the 2x8Gb kit even though it is slightly more expensive to save the 2 slots for future expansion if ever needed. Worth it when spending this kind of money.
If you plan on moving this rig around or taking it on a trip/moving, a light, compact water cooler puts much less strain on the motherboard than a big ass air cooler.
 

LilJoka

Member
If you plan on moving this rig around or taking it on a trip/moving, a light, compact water cooler puts much less strain on the motherboard than a big ass air cooler.

Funnily enough, i think the problem has occurred from moving me PC. And ive been living at Uni moving back and forth with my Venomous X + Silver Arrow for 4 years no problems.

Maybe some air bubbles or something, but noise hasnt changed from before the problem occurred. So possible the mount has been ruined whilst in the car.
 
Just started the Evga step-up. Good news, Evga are also making an exception to Superclocked cards as well. For an extra $20, you can upgrade from a 3 GB GTX 780 SC ACX to a 6 GB GTX 780 SC ACX.

Go ahead Ubisoft, I'm ready for your unoptimized Vram chugging pieces of crap.
 

knitoe

Member
The EVGA Supernova has a 10 year warranty for what it's worth!

When it's time for me to build a new PC it's going to be on my radar in a big way, it seems like an absolute bargain.
I have no complaints about mine, except I had one of the early ones and it got recalled. EVGA never connected me to returned it. Only after i accidentally read it in a forum, 6 months later, did I contact them. The kicker was they couldn't find the serial number on their system even though it was register on their website. Once it was cleared, the returned and cross shipped was hassle free.
 

b0bbyJ03

Member
How much do ambient temps affect cpu temps? I installed a 3770k, my thermal solution is coollabratory liquid pro and im cooling it with a corsair h100i (still at stock clock speeds, up to 3.9 Ghz with turbo and HT enabled). today is the first real day of summer temps were i live and my apartment is currently in the 80 degree range if i had to guess. Im getting temps in the mid 40s in idle and while playing BF4 my hottest core hit 78C. Im not sure where to start. How long does it take for the TIM to cure? what kind of temps should I be expecting with an H100i. This is my first PC so id appreciate any advice whatsoever. If this sounds normal or if you think i didn't install it properly then let me know what i should do to correct it. Thank you.
 

Pachimari

Member
Hmm, I just added a second monitor to my setup but I notice the second screen is brighter than my first monitor.

The black level isn't the same. They are set at the same brigthness and contrast in the settings menu.

My monitors are also the same model.

Can the difference be because I use VGA for monitor #1 and HDMI for monitor #2?
 

jimmypop

Banned
The number of complaints on their forums is too much to be an "it happens" thing. People RMA'ing left right and centre. I havent got time for that. In all the PCs that ive built, and parts ive even laid my hands on whilst at work, this is the first product to cause me an issue. I remember at work one of our Corsair H series coolers had the bolt ripped apart.... Compare that to the 2 screws that hold my Silver Arrow Extreme down, quality really shows.

You dont hear Seasonics dying everywhere, and they also provide a 5 year warranty.

Some things that really piss me off about the Hydro coolers:
The backplate doesnt fit properly on all boards, so you dont get enough pressure on the CPU for a good mount. Need to add nylon washers in to fix it.
The backplate direction matters, putting it the wrong way drops performance significantly. No mention in the manual.
LED failures
Corsair Link - Awful slow software, breaks on wake from sleep.
Having to upgrade firmwares on the cooler...
Pump is not provided a regulated 12v supply, therefore if your PSU supplies above 12v, it can cause pump failure/grind/noise.

If you can tell me things like this for a tower air cooler, then ill agree its a more difficult job to get right lol.

Some of you PC GAFers should pop by an enthusiast hardware forum sometime and toss these gems into a thread.

When you do, post the URL here. I'll bring the popcorn.

And what's with the SLI hate here? I've been running two GPUs since VooDoo 2 days. I've never experienced significant issues and adding a second video card a while after the initial build been an effective (and cost-effectove) way to improve performance and build on the initial investment.
 

LilJoka

Member
Some of you PC GAFers should pop by an enthusiast hardware forum sometime and toss these gems into a thread.

When you do, post the URL here. I'll bring the popcorn.

And what's with the SLI hate here? I've been running two GPUs since VooDoo 2 days. I've never experienced significant issues and adding a second video card a while after the initial build been an effective (and cost-effectove) way to improve performance and build on the initial investment.

No need, plenty of info on overclock.net for example
http://www.overclock.net/t/1236923/corsair-h100-h80-h60-noise-grinding-pump-fix-official-corsair-response
 

Dunbar

Member
For picking out RAM, can I just buy any brand that meets the specs in the OP? I'm looking for 16 GB (2x8) and I don't need to over clock. If there's a preferred brand I'd like to get that, but otherwise I'll just grab whatever is the best deal.
 

Lagaff

Gub'mint Researcher

Corsair found a solution for this :

Corsair has now tracked down and fixed a rare and hard to reproduce issue on some of our Hydro series coolers, specifically the H60, H80, and H100 when used in combination with certain power supplies in certain circumstances. The failure will present itself as a buzz or hum, similar to a hard drive seek noise, and may disappear and reappear at random times. This issue affects a very small number of units, and typically is more prevalent on power supplies that provide higher than +12.2V on the +12V rail, which explains why some users have experienced multiple units with the same issue – they’re plugging them into the same power supply.

Regardless, this has since been corrected and we are now shipping units that do not experience the issue. If you’ve got a noisy H100, H80, or H60 unit, and the noise is coming from the pump (not the fans), we’d like to offer you a selective RMA. Please email us at http://corsair.force.com with the subject line “Hydro Series Buzz” and include your name, phone number, shipping address, and email address. We will contact you to start a replacement with a known good unit.

Thank you, and we appreciate your patience as we corrected this issue.

http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107252
Hardware issue can happen with any product/manufacturer at least they will replace these defective units look like.
 

kennah

Member
Hmm, I just added a second monitor to my setup but I notice the second screen is brighter than my first monitor.

The black level isn't the same. They are set at the same brigthness and contrast in the settings menu.

My monitors are also the same model.

Can the difference be because I use VGA for monitor #1 and HDMI for monitor #2?
Try switching the inputs and see if the brighter one is still the brighter one.

If it is - welcome to Standard Deviation.
 

knitoe

Member
So I tried my old PSU and still no power, perhaps my old MB was damaged somehow? Don't understand how everything is just toast moving from one case to another
LLShC.gif
Static electricity could be very bad with electronics. I would try powering on outside of the computer case. The new case maybe casing a short.
 

Brofist

Member
Ease of working in the case is pretty huge. I've also used Corsair hydro series for awhile. h60,h100,h80i (current) , and have a h100i on the way. I have a Seasonic Platinum 1000w that I have to RMA due to some kind of short. It's regarded as one of the best PSUs out. It happens.

How do you feel about the difference between the h60 and h80i. Worth it for the h80i?
 
Hey guys, I just bought a GTX 780 last month, and I am now looking to upgrade my mobo and CPU, also my RAM if the budget allows it.

Current config:

Intel Core i7-860 (QC, 2.8GHz, 8MB Cache, HT)
8GB DDR3 1600MHz Kingston HyperX (4x2GB)
ASUS P7P55D Pro
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780 (Zotac AMP! Edition)
1x 120GB Corsair Force 3 SDD
2x 500GB Hitachi 500GB 7.2k
Seventeam 850W (ST850ZAF)

What CPU and mobo should I buy? My budget is not infinite, but I am willing to spend some money on it.
 

Brofist

Member
Hey guys, I just bought a GTX 780 last month, and I am now looking to upgrade my mobo and CPU, also my RAM if the budget allows it.

Current config:

Intel Core i7-860 (QC, 2.8GHz, 8MB Cache, HT)
8GB DDR3 1600MHz Kingston HyperX (4x2GB)
ASUS P7P55D Pro
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780 (Zotac AMP! Edition)
1x 120GB Corsair Force 3 SDD
2x 500GB Hitachi 500GB 7.2k
Seventeam 850W (ST850ZAF)

What CPU and mobo should I buy? My budget is not infinite, but I am willing to spend some money on it.

I'm in the same situation, just bought a GTX 780, looking to replace my i7 920. I think I'm going to wait and go for a 4790K paired with something along the lines of a MSI Z97 Gaming 5. I'm hoping to keep the combo to around $500.
 

Smokey

Member
So I tried my old PSU and still no power, perhaps my old MB was damaged somehow? Don't understand how everything is just toast moving from one case to another
LLShC.gif

This happened to me way back with my P67 board. Static electricity most likely did it. Had to get a new motherboard.

How do you feel about the difference between the h60 and h80i. Worth it for the h80i?

I really like the h80i. Its easy to install and the Corsair Link software works well...for me at least. Its been my favorite of the Hydro series that I've owned.
 

golem

Member
The EVGA Supernova has a 10 year warranty for what it's worth!

When it's time for me to build a new PC it's going to be on my radar in a big way, it seems like an absolute bargain.

I have two Supernovas and a Seasonic Platinum.. all have been solid. 10 year warranty rocks though.

Would a 500w PSU be enough to power a Asus R9 280x? Need to upgrade, my 6850 has run it's course.

Stock it would be close I think, overclocking is probably a no go
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Hey guys, I just bought a GTX 780 last month, and I am now looking to upgrade my mobo and CPU, also my RAM if the budget allows it.

Current config:

Intel Core i7-860 (QC, 2.8GHz, 8MB Cache, HT)
8GB DDR3 1600MHz Kingston HyperX (4x2GB)
ASUS P7P55D Pro
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780 (Zotac AMP! Edition)
1x 120GB Corsair Force 3 SDD
2x 500GB Hitachi 500GB 7.2k
Seventeam 850W (ST850ZAF)

What CPU and mobo should I buy? My budget is not infinite, but I am willing to spend some money on it.
Overclock and wait 3 months for devil canyon.
 
Any good quality PSU that outputs 500W is way more than enough for a system like that (including overclocking).

If I recall a Haswell i7 with a GTX 780Ti only pushes 320w overlcocked or soemthing like that. If he has an FX Series CPU he would need like 650w.

EDIT: Has an i5-2500K, any decent 80-Plus Bronze 500W PSU would do well.
 
This happened to me way back with my P67 board. Static electricity most likely did it. Had to get a new motherboard.

Static electricity could be very bad with electronics. I would try powering on outside of the computer case. The new case maybe casing a short.

FML...damn. Any suggestions for a good mini-ITX board/cpu combo that would be good for an HTPC? I'm not even sure if the tri-core AMD one that's on there now is even compatible with any newer boards.
 

Zaru

Member
Aaaaand I changed my mind again and want to get the PC NOW.

CPU: Intel Xeon 1230v3
Graphics Card: MSI Twin Frozr 770 GTX 2GB
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
RAM: 2x8 GB Corsair Vengeance (Low Profile since I don't want trouble with the 212 Evo)
Mainboard: Gigabyte H87-HD3
Case: Fractal Design Refine R4
Storage: Samsung 250 EVO (no need for HDD since I have one to use already)
Power: EVGA SUPERNOVA NEX650G

Total of ~1024€ at the stores I checked.

Any obvious improvements I can/should make? Main use is gaming at 1920x1200 for the next years until I replace the graphics card, as well as intensive Photoshop work.
Note that the PC runs on low consumption for 15+ hours a day a lot of the time so long term stability is something I desire here (particularly why I picked the Xeon)
 

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
I really like the h80i. Its easy to install and the Corsair Link software works well...for me at least. Its been my favorite of the Hydro series that I've owned.

I've heard the fans are noisy, but the performance is superb.

Did you run with the stock Corsair fans, or did you replace them with a different brand?
 

b0bbyJ03

Member
If I reseat my h100i do i have to reapply the TIM? i applied it 2 days ago and noticed i was getting terrible temps so today I reseated it but left the same application i used 2 days ago. i used coollabratory liquid pro. seems it doesn't really dry. it was still wet from what i could tell.
 

pxleyes

Banned
I'm looking to replace the fans in my Antec P180b case, but I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed by the selection on Newegg. The case just takes standard 120mm fans, and I'm looking to replace the 4 I have now. The case does allow for manual fan rpm switching from little ports that allow the switch on the fan to be reached from the outside. I'm not terribly concerned about that feature though. Right now I'm dealing with an aging GTX260 that overheats from time to time (mostly in DIII), and a bunch of old fans thst are louder than they should be and don't push much air. Quieter is definitely better for me, as I work from home, but I definitely want to keep pushing a decent amount of air. Any suggestions on which direction to head?
 
Can you give us a full list of the parts you will be using?
Since it's a proper Nvidia GPU it has better drivers, GL support etc. but it's too old to be really good in that regard. It was the absolute bottom of the range when introduced so performance is poor. Should be close to the cheapo Intel HD 4000/5000.

I guess I'm misunderstanding how Steam In-Home Streaming works? Isn't the client PC just decoding...video? Isn't the 610 able to decode (in the very least) 1080p @ 30fps?

I'm hoping to cobble together garbage parts to accomplish this. I just tried an old P4 3.4GHz with 1GB RAM and an old GeForce 7900 GS. Was not pretty.

The Steam graph seems to tell me that all my issues are on the decoding side. Switching between CPU and GPU decoding didn't seem to make much of a difference.

I'm hoping I can drop $35 on a 610 or something similar and stream games to my Plasma downstairs. Possible, or is the 610 too weak to even decode video in this scenario?

Edit: I'm also interested in this card because it is low profile, and I can potentially get a hold of some older Dell Optiplex models for pennies a pound...
 
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