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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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What's up with hiding PSU's in enthusiast cases? Buy a pretty PSU for your show rigs, there are nice looking PSU's out there.
Hiding them cables.
Not sure if already posted but just got this email, £40 off the Samsung 840 evo 1TB SSD https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...=gPxTVv7FDCrTX2UuLnsUEQ&bvm=bv.68235269,d.ZGU

Is that price any good PC GAF? Not up on 1TB SSD prices.

I'm not familiar with £ , but in € that'd be around 440, and the usual € price for those is around 400€. Sooo.. I'd say no.

//
Even amazon UK sells it 3£ cheaper,.
 

kharma45

Member
Not sure if already posted but just got this email, £40 off the Samsung 840 evo 1TB SSD https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...=gPxTVv7FDCrTX2UuLnsUEQ&bvm=bv.68235269,d.ZGU

Is that price any good PC GAF? Not up on 1TB SSD prices.

Hiding them cables.


I'm not familiar with £ , but in € that'd be around 440, and the usual € price for those is around 400€. Sooo.. I'd say no.

//
Even amazon UK sells it 3£ cheaper,.

I'd grab the M500 at £310 instead http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BQ8RGL6/
 

Smokey

Member
Just drop in a 290 and make sure your PSU can handle it and an overclocked FX CPU( yours).

4GB 760 is bad idea. Just get a 290 or a 3GB nVidia card. Forget planned dates, but they keep shifting back too.

You comfortable putting together water yourself and spending a lot of time tinkering? A tri-card loop is a good amount of setup.
I would say just go 3x 780Ti 6GB on air (Honestly I'd probably just stop at 2) or use the HG10 / G10 water AIO and Haswell-E on AIO water for CPU. All SSD for storage.

Maybe someone else can step in who has spent a lot here.


The 780Ti 6GB isn't a thing anymore
 

LilJoka

Member
What's the consensus then on waiting for Haswell E? Is it worth going for a 4690k over a 4670k?

Haswell E is Enthusiast linuep 5820, 5930, 5960X on X99 platform socket 2011. 6c12t and 8c16t for extreme. DDR4 RAM.

Haswell Refresh is the new non-K chips Z87/Z97
Devils canyon is the i7 4790k and i5 4690k Z87/Z97

Its probably a good idea to wait for Devils canyon if thats what you meant.

If you want the best then wait for Haswell E, but its going to be pretty expensive, id rather just get an X79 system to avoid DDR4 cost. Also depends on the PCIE lanes you need.
 
I have an i7 4770k sitting unopened in box and all my componenets to build my new PC. Should I return the 4770k and go a month without a PC to get the 4790k?
 

Zaru

Member
My build is up and running and I'm migrating all the necessary software and data now.

Thanks a lot everyone, this thread was my go-to place and incredibly helpful during my dozens of hours of part research.
 
Still considering an upgrade from Athlon II X4 to a 95W Phenom II or FX processor, possibly the Phenom II X4 1050T or FX-6300. Would it be worthwhile if I find one of these for cheap second hand? Or should I just soldier on for another year or so and do a mainboard/cpu overhaul, seeing as I can't use the 125W CPUs and new sockets are on the horizon?
 

kharma45

Member
Still considering an upgrade from Athlon II X4 to a 95W Phenom II or FX processor, possibly the Phenom II X4 1050T or FX-6300. Would it be worthwhile if I find one of these for cheap second hand? Or should I just soldier on for another year or so and do a mainboard/cpu overhaul, seeing as I can't use the 125W CPUs and new sockets are on the horizon?

You can't upgrade using your current borad. The Athlon II X4 is an FM2 socket, Phenom II and the FX line are on AM3+.
 
Is there a downside to cramming all the high-end stuff into a BitFenix?

If I'm going for a GTX 780 and the works, should I use a larger tower, or will the BitFenix be fine?

I just love that form factor!
 
Is there a downside to cramming all the high-end stuff into a BitFenix?

If I'm going for a GTX 780 and the works, should I use a larger tower, or will the BitFenix be fine?

I just love that form factor!

I'm running a 780 in a Prodigy. It's fine, but just keep in mind that it can't accept coolers that are more than 2 slots wide. This isn't a problem for most cards - I'm using a Gigabyte 780 Ghz edition, but if you're eyeing something like a Gainward Phantom, the cooler is 2.5 slots wide. I actually got a 770 Phantom with a 2.5 cooler before this 780, and had to physically modify my case to fit, (surgery involving a hack-saw) and the door didn't close properly. Was terrible. It's... mostly back to the way it was now.
 

Dunbar

Member
All right, after weeks of asking dumb questions and trying to research things, here is my final build:

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor ($299.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($27.98 @ Amazon)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($142.86 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($152.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($134.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($56.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Superclocked ACX Video Card ($479.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Cooler Master VSM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1457.74

- I still need to find a case that fits all this. I'll order the case last because I want to look around for something that I like.

- I put the 4790 Haswell refresh chip in there but actually I'm going to wait until July (or whenever) and order the 4790K Devil's Canyon chip and overclock it (and the RAM and video card, if possible).

- I think all these are acceptable parts so mostly I'm wondering if anything could/should be replaced with something much better or if anything won't work well together.

- I already ordered the video card and motherboard so I really hope those are good choices. :)

Thanks again as always.
 

kharma45

Member
All right, after weeks of asking dumb questions and trying to research things, here is my final build:

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor ($299.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($27.98 @ Amazon)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($142.86 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($152.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($134.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($56.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Superclocked ACX Video Card ($479.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Cooler Master VSM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1457.74

- I still need to find a case that fits all this. I'll order the case last because I want to look around for something that I like.

- I put the 4790 Haswell refresh chip in there but actually I'm going to wait until July (or whenever) and order the 4790K Devil's Canyon chip and overclock it (and the RAM and video card, if possible).

- I think all these are acceptable parts so mostly I'm wondering if anything could/should be replaced with something much better or if anything won't work well together.

- I already ordered the video card and motherboard so I really hope those are good choices. :)

Thanks again as always.

You won't need thermal paste.

Mobo is a good one.

I'd swap the PSU to this for $88 http://pcpartpicker.com/part/xfx-power-supply-p1750bbefx

Case wise, taken a look at the Fractal R4? The windowed one is $90 atm.
 
Start with a manual vcore of 1.25v not adaptive.

But like I said, you can use one of the BIOS presets to start with, I've had an excellent experience with them on the Asus top end boards as a start point.

I have an Asus Rog board and none of the presets worked for me. They would either bluescreen or not even load into windows. Even their software overlocking tool just kept blue screening and was never able to complete. It sucks because that was one of the main reasons I got one of those boards as a noob overclocker :/
 

Willectro

Banned
All right, after weeks of asking dumb questions and trying to research things, here is my final build:

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor ($299.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($27.98 @ Amazon)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($142.86 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($152.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($134.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($56.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Superclocked ACX Video Card ($479.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Cooler Master VSM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1457.74

.

As the OP advises: "Get low profile RAM". I found this out the hard way. While Corsair Vengeance looks cool (and seems to be good reliable RAM), the heat spreaders are cheap metal attached with what seems to be 2 sided tape.
 

Dunbar

Member
As the OP advises: "Get low profile RAM". I found this out the hard way. While Corsair Vengeance looks cool (and seems to be good reliable RAM), the heat spreaders are cheap metal attached with what seems to be 2 sided tape.
I'm fine to buy whatever, I only chose that based on seeing other people put it in their builds. Anything to recommend?
 

LilJoka

Member
I have an Asus Rog board and none of the presets worked for me. They would either bluescreen or not even load into windows. Even their software overlocking tool just kept blue screening and was never able to complete. It sucks because that was one of the main reasons I got one of those boards as a noob overclocker :/

Was the CPU any good in terms of OCing? Usually those presets work on average CPUs, they cant make a bad clocker any better however. The profiles are definitely more refined on the ROG boards for sure though.
 

Willectro

Banned
I'm fine to buy whatever, I only chose that based on seeing other people put it in their builds. Anything to recommend?

I've seen a lot of people using it with liquid coolers. I'm not sure if the 212 has issues with higher profile ram (I would imagine there are workarounds), but if you decide to change cpu coolers in the future you may run into problems. Just last night I had to remove heat spreaders from 1 stick of vengeance to get a Noctua NH-D15 to fit. Not a big deal, I'm just a little salty that I spent the extra on what I thought was cool looking ram.

OP advice is extremely accurate: "Get low profile RAM (Fins can block HS). 1600Mhz+ is fine. 1.35 or 1.50V. Faster RAM is a very small boost. Pick a nice color."
 
Here's a list I'm putting together of my (hopefully) BitFenix Prodigy build. Any suggestions / changes NeoGAF? And NO - don't try convincing me to just build it myself. :D Fuck that noise - I'm too busy, too scared and I have a paycheck to throw down. Aight? Aight.

chKDPfG.png
 

Wounded

Member
So I think I'm just going to pick up the i7-4790K when it releases, and not wait for the Haswell-E's. Does anyone else feel this way? I'm reluctant to go for the brand new generation along with DDR4, it's not worth the price difference just for gaming, surely?

Stupid decision or not?
 

Addnan

Member
Here's a list I'm putting together of my (hopefully) BitFenix Prodigy build. Any suggestions / changes NeoGAF? And NO - don't try convincing me to just build it myself. :D Fuck that noise - I'm too busy, too scared and I have a paycheck to throw down. Aight? Aight.

chKDPfG.png

H100 is a bit of an overkill, cut that down to H60 or just get an air cooler. PSU down to the 650W version and add an SSD.
 
Here's a list I'm putting together of my (hopefully) BitFenix Prodigy build. Any suggestions / changes NeoGAF? And NO - don't try convincing me to just build it myself. :D Fuck that noise - I'm too busy, too scared and I have a paycheck to throw down. Aight? Aight.

chKDPfG.png
This says almost nothing, that's missing alot of brands.

Just copy the link from the pre-build or whatever this should be here.
 

kennah

Member
It pretty overkill in a lot of areas and low quality in others. SSD is necessary. A better psu with less wattage. Also don't pay for their overclock service. Just do it yourself.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Try matching parts from the OP list with the options available from the place where you're having it built. Or, just give me a link to the "build it yourself" option and I'll min/max it out for you.
 

Seanspeed

Banned
After about 9 months, I finally started overclocking my 3570k today.

I've got an MSI Z77A-G45 mobo.

I've been slowly going up on the speed and right now, have it at 4.2ghz @ 1.17v and max temps are about 72C running OCCT. So I'm pretty happy with the performance and all, but, it seems that I've lost the ability to run lower speeds/voltage at idle. However, my idle temperatures aren't any higher than they were when it would drop down to 1.6ghz/1.0v on idle.

Is this anything I should really worry about? And if so, is there anything I can do about it?
 

scogoth

Member
Try matching parts from the OP list with the options available from the place where you're having it built. Or, just give me a link to the "build it yourself" option and I'll min/max it out for you.

There you are! I just volunteered you to help Jack with his ultimate build.
 

Brick

Member
Whelp, after living with a Frankenstein PC that I cobbled together with second hand parts over the years, I finally decided to put together a real machine. Here is the system I bought, minus a new keyboard that is not on the list that I also bought. I know it's not top of the line, but I could not be more excited to put it together this weekend and step up from the leftovers to an at least "high end of the middle" build.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Here you go good sir: http://bit.ly/1rLCqaG Thanks for doing this!

LVDj05B.png


An easy way to drop the price would be dropping the 4770K down to a 4670K, or the 16GB of RAM down to 8GB.

But seriously, you're overpaying huge here. If saving an evening of your time is worth $400+, then I totally understand. But I'm not kidding when I say it's easy. I started building PCs when I was just 14 (16 years ago), and I am not a very savy person when it comes to engineering/building. To this day, whenever we have a project to do at home, my wife has to just tell me what to do because I'll end up screwing up whatever it is. Even if it's something like a bed frame.
There you are! I just volunteered you to help Jack with his ultimate build.
What what?
 
LVDj05B.png


An easy way to drop the price would be dropping the 4770K down to a 4670K, or the 16GB of RAM down to 8GB.

But seriously, you're overpaying huge here. If saving an evening of your time is worth $400+, then I totally understand. But I'm not kidding when I say it's easy. I started building PCs when I was just 14 (16 years ago), and I am not a very savy person when it comes to engineering/building. To this day, whenever we have a project to do at home, my wife has to just tell me what to do because I'll end up screwing up whatever it is. Even if it's something like a bed frame.

I LOVE the gamertag :D I'll be sure to keep it. Haha!

Just a few questions:

1. No need for 1-3 case fans?
2. Will the 256GB SSD be enough for just gaming needs? Especially if I'm downloading a bunch of games from Steam?
 

riflen

Member
After about 9 months, I finally started overclocking my 3570k today.

I've got an MSI Z77A-G45 mobo.

I've been slowly going up on the speed and right now, have it at 4.2ghz @ 1.17v and max temps are about 72C running OCCT. So I'm pretty happy with the performance and all, but, it seems that I've lost the ability to run lower speeds/voltage at idle. However, my idle temperatures aren't any higher than they were when it would drop down to 1.6ghz/1.0v on idle.

Is this anything I should really worry about? And if so, is there anything I can do about it?

Well I'd try running some games to check stability. When I was finding the settings for my 3570k, I could run soak tests for hours without a problem, but Far Cry 3 would blue screen the machine very frequently.
If that overclock is totally stable for you and it's the level you want to reach, then you can just leave it. You'll just be sipping slightly more power when idle than might be necessary, but that's pretty nice low voltage for 4.2Ghz, so it depends how much more fiddling you can be bothered with.

You could read up on an offset overclock. I use this to get the best of both worlds; 1.6Ghz idle and 4.6Ghz boost. I suspect if you want to go higher with the clock, then an offset might make more sense as you increase the voltage.
 
After about 9 months, I finally started overclocking my 3570k today.

I've got an MSI Z77A-G45 mobo.

I've been slowly going up on the speed and right now, have it at 4.2ghz @ 1.17v and max temps are about 72C running OCCT. So I'm pretty happy with the performance and all, but, it seems that I've lost the ability to run lower speeds/voltage at idle. However, my idle temperatures aren't any higher than they were when it would drop down to 1.6ghz/1.0v on idle.

Is this anything I should really worry about? And if so, is there anything I can do about it?
I activated Intel C-States when I OC'd my 3570K on the same mobo and it seems to be lowering the power draw and temps, although I have a higher voltage because I can't figure out how to manually set the voltage besides using the offsets.
 
1. No need for 1-3 case fans?
2. Will the 256GB SSD be enough for just gaming needs? Especially if I'm downloading a bunch of games from Steam?
1. Unless you live in Florida (like I do) and/or plan to have the PC in a room that gets really hot during the day, you probably won't need more than the stock fans.
2. You need at least a 1TB HDD to store all your games.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I LOVE the gamertag :D I'll be sure to keep it. Haha!

Just a few questions:

1. No need for 1-3 case fans?
2. Will the 256GB SSD be enough for just gaming needs? Especially if I'm downloading a bunch of games from Steam?
1. It comes with one large intake, and one exhaust that is totally fine for a single GPU setup.

2. Yep. Have the same size on both of my gaming machines, and I've never had a tough time managing space. I do have a good net connection though, so downloading games isn't really an issue. Regardless, if you're playing more than 10 games at a time, maybe. But who does that?
 
1. It comes with one large intake, and one exhaust that is totally fine for a single GPU setup.

2. Yep. Have the same size on both of my gaming machines, and I've never had a tough time managing space. I do have a good net connection though, so downloading games isn't really an issue. Regardless, if you're playing more than 10 games at a time, maybe. But who does that?

Valid point actually. Alright! I'm sold - I'll be ordering that model you put together this week. Thanks so much for the help!

If I were to add an additional Hard drive, would anything else need to be changed in this build, like power supply or something?
 

Seanspeed

Banned
Well I'd try running some games to check stability. When I was finding the settings for my 3570k, I could run soak tests for hours without a problem, but Far Cry 3 would blue screen the machine very frequently.
If that overclock is totally stable for you and it's the level you want to reach, then you can just leave it. You'll just be sipping slightly more power when idle than might be necessary, but that's pretty nice low voltage for 4.2Ghz, so it depends how much more fiddling you can be bothered with.

You could read up on an offset overclock. I use this to get the best of both worlds; 1.6Ghz idle and 4.6Ghz boost. I suspect if you want to go higher with the clock, then an offset might make more sense as you increase the voltage.
Yea, an offset setting would be great, but I dont seem to have one?

I'll try some games later. Guessing I should run CPU heavy games, right?

I activated Intel C-States when I OC'd my 3570K on the same mobo and it seems to be lowering the power draw and temps, although I have a higher voltage because I can't figure out how to manually set the voltage besides using the offsets.
Ok, so C state is very similar to offset voltage in terms of power saving? Or is it the same thing?

Anything to worry about using it? Following a tutorial, it was recommended to disable it, but it wasnt explained why. I'd definitely like to conserve power and extend CPU life.
 
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