I have the 'loud' one and it is quieter than my 670. Don't believe everything
sure a 130mm psu will be silenter. The reviews are only going on about how you can hear it at all. Read the op. Fill out the survey
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
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sure a 130mm psu will be silenter. The reviews are only going on about how you can hear it at all. CaptainZombie
Member
I have the 'loud' one and it is quieter than my 670. Don't believe everything
Read the op. Fill out the survey
Which PSU do you have, the 300W or 450W? I take it the 400.
Oh, damn. I totally forgot ncix price matching. How long do they usually take? Also, ncix helps you with compatibility issue if you placed an item that are not meant for it. I guess I'm fine if I'm miss and match.
As for GPU, I'm actually planning to build a PC without GPU for now while I wait for any promo on GPU. Though I don't know if that's a good idea.
The 450 Bronze non modular. Currently pushing a 2600k and gtx 670
Nah. That's a great idea. You can game a little on the hd4600 and then keep an eye out for a good deal. They are usually pretty quick. Worth the couple day wait. Where are you exactly?
Here's something basic I put together. I'm sure you could go cheaper if you want.
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2IOZr
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2IOZr/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2IOZr/benchmarks/
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Cooling MX4 4g Thermal Paste ($6.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi Z87X 3D ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($144.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($76.50 @ Newegg)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($69.99 @ Microcenter)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.66 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 770 4GB Video Card ($389.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec High Current Gamer 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus VS247H-P 23.6" Monitor ($156.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1275.04
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-01-27 21:59 EST-0500)
I like the non conducting paste of the mx4, but that's me.
Yeah, I'm not in rush to buy any graphic card since I don't have any game yet I want to play. I just want to replace my dying laptop who can't even play a fullscreen 720p video without any lag. I'm in Toronto btw.
Thank you so much, I am very grateful. I'm not very knowledgeable but it looks great, ill research tonight.
Ultimatepancake
Banned
What's wrong with SFX? Not enough power?
I have a Dell Insprion 660 with a GT620, Intel Core I5-3330 3GHz, 8Gb ram and stock dell PSU 250W or 300W I think. I want to put a GTX 660 in it. I know nothing about building PC's (I just took the case off of one for the first time last week). Tell me everything I need to know. (If the GPU will fit in the same slot, will I have the right connectors, what size of PSU to get, etc...)
Edit: Reccomend me the best possible way to get the most performance with this PC for $250 to $300. Max $300
Edit: Reccomend me the best possible way to get the most performance with this PC for $250 to $300. Max $300
Grab a VP450 or EVGA 500B and stick in the 660. If it has 2 PCI-E pins just get a molex to PCIE power adapter.
I'm running Memtest86 and errors are coming back (15 so far) after 2 passes/a couple hours. I've got two sticks of 8gb and I forgot to take one out before starting this. In the interest of not spending another two or three hours and then having to do this again, I have a question:
Will this tell me which stick (if it's just one) is bad when this is done, or should I abort this now and go right to individually testing?
Will this tell me which stick (if it's just one) is bad when this is done, or should I abort this now and go right to individually testing?
Okay. I will cut down on that as well.
I'll look at it when I get back home. But will it be able to run a HD movie to the HDTV while I play a game on monitor 1, watch live tv on monitor 2 and is on the internet on monitor 3 - all at the same time?
Yeah. Could also be that I'm recording through EyeTV while my relative/friends watches a HD movie on the HDTV, while I also play a high-end game on one monitor. Or programming websites/databases etc.
I want a monster Gaming PC that can handle all of that now that I have finally decided to build one.
You might be expecting a little too much honestly from what you're asking.
BladeSinner
Neo Member
Hey Guys,
I'm looking for some advice and help. I just bought a PS4, but have been dying to build another Gaming PC for a while (I haven't had anything decent in a long time, so will need to build from scratch).
I am currently living abroad in South East Asia, and since I will be flying back to the US for 2 weeks in March, I figured if the price is right, and what I want to accomplish is possible, now would be the time to start ordering parts.
What I want to try and accomplish are the following:
- Small Form Factor (so that is is easy enough to build the system, and bring it easily back with me to South East Asia (carry on would be ideal)
- Quiet (This system will be used in my bedroom, as space is an issue at the moment).
- Low power consumption (not sure if this is possible, but since I am living in a country where electricity is among the most expensive in the world, I would like to try and reduce this as much as possible)
- Game in 1920x1080, at 60fps for the next 2-3 years
Your Current Specs: none, have a 2 year old Dell i7 xps 15 laptop
Budget: upto $2,000 US
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1920x180p, I have the VG248QE monitor from Asus.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Looking to play newest games at best FPS possible
Looking to reuse any parts?: no
When will you build?: Within the next month
Will you be overclocking?: NO, I want the system to run as quiet, and as cool as humanly possible, at the lowest wattage possible...again, electricity is expensive here, and the room temperature sits at around 28c-32c!
Appreciate any help you can give me in advanced.
I'm looking for some advice and help. I just bought a PS4, but have been dying to build another Gaming PC for a while (I haven't had anything decent in a long time, so will need to build from scratch).
I am currently living abroad in South East Asia, and since I will be flying back to the US for 2 weeks in March, I figured if the price is right, and what I want to accomplish is possible, now would be the time to start ordering parts.
What I want to try and accomplish are the following:
- Small Form Factor (so that is is easy enough to build the system, and bring it easily back with me to South East Asia (carry on would be ideal)
- Quiet (This system will be used in my bedroom, as space is an issue at the moment).
- Low power consumption (not sure if this is possible, but since I am living in a country where electricity is among the most expensive in the world, I would like to try and reduce this as much as possible)
- Game in 1920x1080, at 60fps for the next 2-3 years
Your Current Specs: none, have a 2 year old Dell i7 xps 15 laptop
Budget: upto $2,000 US
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1920x180p, I have the VG248QE monitor from Asus.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Looking to play newest games at best FPS possible
Looking to reuse any parts?: no
When will you build?: Within the next month
Will you be overclocking?: NO, I want the system to run as quiet, and as cool as humanly possible, at the lowest wattage possible...again, electricity is expensive here, and the room temperature sits at around 28c-32c!
Appreciate any help you can give me in advanced.
SneakyStephan
Banned
I have the 'loud' one and it is quieter than my 670. Don't believe everything
Read the op. Fill out the survey
A power supply isn't louder than a gpu? Such big praise...
Cheers.
This can be tough, since you want low wattage. This is what I've made, I'm sure others could do better, since I have no idea what Video card is low wattage.
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2IXnc
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2IXnc/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2IXnc/benchmarks/
CPU: Intel Core i5-4570S 2.9GHz Quad-Core Processor ($195.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VI IMPACT Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($209.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Blu 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($74.28 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($169.98 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive ($89.99 @ Dell)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 770 4GB Video Card ($389.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Node 605 HTPC Case ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic X Series 400W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($112.14 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1372.34
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-01-28 04:25 EST-0500)
@BladeSinner pick a case first, then work from there.
Most wattage draw comes from voltage so I'd still go for a K CPU, overclock AND undervolt it.
A lot of HyperX memory is 1.65V, make sure to get 1.35V or 1.5V
GPU get a Gigabyte/ASUS custom one
Cooling and GPU depend on your case and how sensitive you are to pump noise.
and the 270x / 760 are a nice bump up from a 660 for $50.
Most wattage draw comes from voltage so I'd still go for a K CPU, overclock AND undervolt it.
A lot of HyperX memory is 1.65V, make sure to get 1.35V or 1.5V
GPU get a Gigabyte/ASUS custom one
Cooling and GPU depend on your case and how sensitive you are to pump noise.
Yup. For not that much more you can get a BP550 though: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371016
and the 270x / 760 are a nice bump up from a 660 for $50.
See the NEWS section in the bottom of the OP.
Ok, my new PC is ready and already been used for me to drool around looking DEM DETAILS.
And this is my
humble way of giving all back to you, the best community ever.
I already posted this in the Steam thread (yeah, I come from there) yesterday and I was sorta undecided if double posting it here, because I really don't want to annoy anyone. More so here, a very focused thread with no space for community stuff.
But hey, you helped me A LOT. You were the people I came to whine all the time, and I want to show you that your support really really meant a lot to me (and to my rig!).
To avoid filling the thread of images and rantings useless for most people, I'm gonna just paste the link to the standalone page (of a quite abandoned site, with no ads, no stuff, no anything) where you can just read the story, if you please, in the hope you'll have some good laughs.
Thanks guys, really. :*
---> http://www.copons.it/coponspc/ <---
And this is my
not-so-
I already posted this in the Steam thread (yeah, I come from there) yesterday and I was sorta undecided if double posting it here, because I really don't want to annoy anyone. More so here, a very focused thread with no space for community stuff.
But hey, you helped me A LOT. You were the people I came to whine all the time, and I want to show you that your support really really meant a lot to me (and to my rig!).
To avoid filling the thread of images and rantings useless for most people, I'm gonna just paste the link to the standalone page (of a quite abandoned site, with no ads, no stuff, no anything) where you can just read the story, if you please, in the hope you'll have some good laughs.
Thanks guys, really. :*
---> http://www.copons.it/coponspc/ <---
More than welcome to post that here. Sorry about the Win7 USB install, it does seem like it can be finicky sometimes.
Please fix your cables
Eh, I would like to, but I just couldn't.
The back of the case isn't wide enough to hold more than a couple of the thinner PSU cables, so I was forced to stuff them all below the HDD, and I don't feel comfortable splitting them some below some above it, because they would get in the way of the front fan.
Before Silverstone FT05 (a full price class up, so not relevant here) was announced, I was probably going to use a Nanoxia DS4 for my next build. Out of your options I'd pick the Nanoxia even if it was the same price with the R4. Apparently they are just all around solid and mega-quiet; the Anandtech reviews are enough to convince me.
OminoMichelin
Member
michaelius
Banned
Seriously ?
Advising people to buy $380 gpu to use with trash TN display for 160$ ?
GPU will be outdated in 2-3 years anyway while good display will stay for 5-6 years.
It would be much better to downgrade gpu to gtx 760 and choose one of $300 mva/ips displays or 120Hz 24" tn
Loved it.
I read this yesterday and it got me excited for my build on saturday. Hoping it goes just as well as yours!
Hmm..
I guess I could keep my Mac Mini for HD tv channels and recording.
Then I just need my Gaming PC to be able to use Photoshop and Dreamweaver (programmming databasses/websites) on 2 monitors.
Would my set-up be okay? I want it to run the newest games on high-end/ultra settings.
TC McQueen
Member
I've been thinking about upgrading my cooling setup for my HAF 912. Right now, I've only got the two stock 120mm fans installed, with another 120mm fan lying around. The case can mount two 120mm fans up top or a 200mm, while I could stick another 120mm up front or a 200mm. Should I get more 120mm fans, a single 200mm for the front or top, or two 200mm fans?
I plan to get dust filters for the new fans.
Some fans I'm looking at:
Cooler Master MegaFlow 200 - Sleeve Bearing 200mm Silent Fan for Computer Cases (Black)
Cougar Turbine CFT12SB4 120mm Case Fan
I plan to get dust filters for the new fans.
Some fans I'm looking at:
Cooler Master MegaFlow 200 - Sleeve Bearing 200mm Silent Fan for Computer Cases (Black)
Cougar Turbine CFT12SB4 120mm Case Fan
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
I wouldn't recommend a WD Green as your primary HDD, they are slower and spin down sooner, better for backups. Reds are more for NAS aren't they?
WD Blue is the standard drive, Black is the step up from that.
Guys, I need recommendation.
So I have this rig for almost like, 10 years. It have went through numerous upgrade and the only remaining legacy part from that 10 years ago is an ATA 80GB HDD. Just a month ago this old buddy of mine suddenly got its 4 years old GPU busted. I don't know why. My monitor won't receive any signal from it when I plugged the cable to the GPU port. So I decided that this is my perfect chance to upgrade my old GPU (and possibly RAM as well) that can't even run DX11. I'm planning to play The Witcher 3 at least on high, and have the rig able to play similar games on such setting for the next six years. I don't have the money, but I'm currently saving it right now and I need a clear price range on how much I should save. While my upgrade target currently is the GPU, I would kindly take any further reccommendation on which part I should upgrade next.
Here goes:
Your Current Specs: AMD Phenom II X6 3.3GHZ, GTS250(busted), 4GB RAM (2GB Kingston+2GB Patriot), 560GB HDD (80GB ATA+320GB+160GB SATA), 650W Corsair PSU
Budget: $500-$700 ($350-$450 for GPU alone I guess) Indonesia (I guess this wouldn't matter)
Main Use: 5 Gaming 4 Emulation 3 General Usage
Monitor Resolution: LG Flatron E2250V, 1920x1080
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: The Witcher 3 pn 1080p
Looking to reuse any parts?: I'm not sure what this mean, but any part of my current rig that isn't busted or hampered
When will you build?: Within six months at the very late
Will you be overclocking?: Nope
I appreciate your recommendation in advance Gaf.
So I have this rig for almost like, 10 years. It have went through numerous upgrade and the only remaining legacy part from that 10 years ago is an ATA 80GB HDD. Just a month ago this old buddy of mine suddenly got its 4 years old GPU busted. I don't know why. My monitor won't receive any signal from it when I plugged the cable to the GPU port. So I decided that this is my perfect chance to upgrade my old GPU (and possibly RAM as well) that can't even run DX11. I'm planning to play The Witcher 3 at least on high, and have the rig able to play similar games on such setting for the next six years. I don't have the money, but I'm currently saving it right now and I need a clear price range on how much I should save. While my upgrade target currently is the GPU, I would kindly take any further reccommendation on which part I should upgrade next.
Here goes:
Your Current Specs: AMD Phenom II X6 3.3GHZ, GTS250(busted), 4GB RAM (2GB Kingston+2GB Patriot), 560GB HDD (80GB ATA+320GB+160GB SATA), 650W Corsair PSU
Budget: $500-$700 ($350-$450 for GPU alone I guess) Indonesia (I guess this wouldn't matter)
Main Use: 5 Gaming 4 Emulation 3 General Usage
Monitor Resolution: LG Flatron E2250V, 1920x1080
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: The Witcher 3 pn 1080p
Looking to reuse any parts?: I'm not sure what this mean, but any part of my current rig that isn't busted or hampered
When will you build?: Within six months at the very late
Will you be overclocking?: Nope
I appreciate your recommendation in advance Gaf.
If it isn't the loudest component who cares?
I was providing that as a reference. Sure it isn't as quiet as a 135mm fan one but it's as quiet as the H60 I have as well. I'll record a video if people care
I'm just saying that the reviews that go in about it being loud are a bit overblown. Hoping the 600w is the same level. (And to finish my full loop some day so it is all even quieter)
Dio Brando
Banned
seeing as a 2tb WD blue doesn't exist, will i really notice the speed difference if i buy a 2tb green? was using a 1tb 7200 seagate barracuda. Will mostly use it for gaming and anime/movies storage.
I noticed recently that lower end R9 cards (270 and 270X) increased in price and started going out of stock. Are miners buying up these cards now?
R9 270's are going for ~$210, 270X's are ~$225.
Are these cards still viable, or should they be swapped for a 760 when doing a budget build?
760's are ~$230 - $250 now.
R9 270's are going for ~$210, 270X's are ~$225.
Are these cards still viable, or should they be swapped for a 760 when doing a budget build?
760's are ~$230 - $250 now.
No to any WD Green HDDs. Slow and the worst reliability.
It's a good case.
Dio Brando
Banned
hmm, not really sure about that reliability thing, seeing they're the ones that have the best average age:
but i can understand the speed argument. seeing seagate are not to be trusted, i guess i'll get a 2tb black and a 1tb blue then.
My current GPU is only a single slot, does getting a dual slot card pose any problems? There is only one slot on my motherboard so when I take the old card out, the new one should go in the same way except it will just take up two slot areas right? Or does it actually plug into two slots? A picture might help as I really don't know what I'm talking about:
Maybe, the 1TB Greens are OK, but the 2TB and larger have very crappy user reviews on Newegg. Personally, I had a 3TB Green and it died less than 8 months.
RubenCordeiro
Neo Member
My current GPU is only a single slot, does getting a dual slot card pose any problems? There is only one slot on my motherboard so when I take the old card out, the new one should go in the same way except it will just take up two slot areas right? Or does it actually plug into two slots? A picture might help as I really don't know what I'm talking about:
You'll be able to fit the card with no worries. The PCI interface of the card will take up the same motherboard slot.
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