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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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bro1

Banned
My new Msi gtx 770 gaming card is making a slight clicking sound when it is idle. At full load it goes away. Do you think it's a bad bearing in the fan?

Also I am running two of these in sli on an asus z77 sabertooth with an corsair ax860i psu. I may have gotten an extra gtx 770. Can I run 3 way sli with at psu and mobo?
 

soultron

Banned
My new Msi gtx 770 gaming card is making a slight clicking sound when it is idle. At full load it goes away. Do you think it's a bad bearing in the fan?

Also I am running two of these in sli on an asus z77 sabertooth with an corsair ax860i psu. I may have gotten an extra gtx 770. Can I run 3 way sli with at psu and mobo?

Check your cabling to see if there are any lose wires near any of your fans is what I'd suggest first.
 

TheD

The Detective
I'm a bit late, but if comfort is a huge factor get Audio Technica (ATH-AD700 or ATH-AD900). I'd recommend them even if not because of their great sound stage and good quality, but the comfort level is second to none.

I got to disagree about the AD900.
As an owner of both the AD700 and an AD900,
I find the AD900 extremely uncomfortable, it has a lot of crushing force on the head and has given me really bad headaches.
 

Water

Member
I got to disagree about the AD900.
As an owner of both the AD700 and an AD900,
I find the AD900 extremely uncomfortable, it has a lot of crushing force on the head and has given me really bad headaches.
Out of curiosity, is it sideways pressure you're experiencing? I had a pair of Audio-Technica ATH-M50s that were OK otherwise, but put uncomfortable downwards pressure on the very top of my head - it started hurting and I had to give them away. I'm guessing this might not be a problem if I didn't wear my hair very short. Didn't mention this before because the M50 is built in an entirely different way from the ADx00s.
 
Sorry for the FAQ but at what temps do I start worrying about my GPU (an MSI R9 270 Twin Frozr Gaming edition).

I was running the Heaven gpu test with the card at 975MHz, and stopped it when the temp kept climbing up past 70. I know 70 is okay as a "stable" temperature, but it wasn't showing any sign of stopping rising.

In regular play of the Witcher 3 and clocked at 975, it's hovering around 68/69 degrees, which is happy territory.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Hi again,

I just want to ask if getting a 500 watt PSU (specifically this - http://www.coolermaster.com/powersupply/office-home-elite-power/elite-power-v2-500w/) is already enough for my build. I already asked for locally available parts so this is what I got:

Intel Core 15 4570
Gigabyte B85M D3H
2x4gb G.Skill RipJaws X
2gb Asus GTX 660 Ti

Like what I said previously in this thread, I won't be overclocking this rig.

Good enough, but considering it's not even 80 plus rated I'd be wary of it. Didn't see any reviews, but CM's other lower end PSUs I did find reviews for were pretty bad.

If possible I'd say go with one of the ones in the OP, VP450 would be fine for that build.
 

kharma45

Member
Hi again,

I just want to ask if getting a 500 watt PSU (specifically this - http://www.coolermaster.com/powersupply/office-home-elite-power/elite-power-v2-500w/) is already enough for my build. I already asked for locally available parts so this is what I got:

Intel Core 15 4570
Gigabyte B85M D3H
2x4gb G.Skill RipJaws X
2gb Asus GTX 660 Ti

Like what I said previously in this thread, I won't be overclocking this rig.

Everything is fine bar the PSU. It's pretty crap to be honest.

Also try and price up a 760 over the 660 Ti and see where you get.
 

Raysoul

Member
Good enough, but considering it's not even 80 plus rated I'd be wary of it. Didn't see any reviews, but CM's other lower end PSUs I did find reviews for were pretty bad.

If possible I'd say go with one of the ones in the OP, VP450 would be fine for that build.

Yah, doing some research and 80% efficiency PSUs are better. Unfortunately, VP450 is not available locally.

How about: Aerocool (Strike X) 500watts 80Plus Bronze Modular

edit: @kharma - Nah, I'm fine with 660 Ti, would prefer 650 ti but it is not available. Budget is also a problem, which is I am already over my set limit.
 

kharma45

Member
Hey guys, how is the Seasonic X-650 PSU?

The Seasonic G is sold out everywhere in India.

Fantastic. One of the best.

Yah, doing some research and 80% efficiency PSUs are better. Unfortunately, VP450 is not available locally.

How about: Aerocool (Strike X) 500watts 80Plus Bronze Modular

edit: @kharma - Nah, I'm fine with 660 Ti, would prefer 650 ti but it is not available. Budget is also a problem, which is I am already over my set limit.

Another crap PSU I'm afraid.

No worries. Usually they're similarly priced but the 760 gives you full access to the 2GB VRAM whereas the 660 and 660 Ti are effectively 1.5GB cards.
 

SleazyC

Member
For the US folks here are a couple good deals that sprung up today:

Corsair H100i - $74.99 Amazon Deal of the Day

Seasonic 660XP2 - $79.99 after $20 MIR and promo code EMCYTZT5622

Intel Core i7 4770k - $289.99 for you folks not near a Microcenter

And sorta related, if anyone is looking for a good wireless N router, Amazon has the Asus RT-N66W, which is the white-colored version of their highly rated Dark Knight router, link

EDIT - Would recommend heading over to Amazon to check out all their other goldbox deals, these were the ones that just jumped out to me.
 
QGv7ubk.jpg


Any tips on what to do in this case? Thermal pad and water block don't connect - ~1mm gap.

First thing to note: I use the recommended/compatible water block listed on EKWB's website for my card. It's a EK-FC680GTX+ on a Gainward GeForce GTX770 Phantom GDDR5 4Go (2968).
Second thing to note, in the manual they recommend using a 0.5mm thermal pad on those component for gainward PCBs and 1.5mm on original PCBs.
Third thing to note, there's also another place where I think it does not connect (because once I removed the block to verify, only those two places did not have the pads stick on the block. It's on Yellow in the following image:
hhng.jpg


Do I stack thermal pads? Do I use the 1.5mm one instead even though they wrote not to? Leave the gap? (I guess not, those should be important to cool down).

Also, EKWB told me in an email not to place a thermal pad on the green area, do you agree? Why wouldn't I put one there if I need to place one on the lower Yellow area?
 

LogicStep

Member
Your Current Specs: CPU / RAM / Motherboard / GPU (Graphics) / PSU (Power Supply) / Case / HDD (Hard Drive)

i7 920 Bloomfield 2.66GHz
6GB DDR3
GIGABYTE GA-EX58-DS4 LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard
GTX 660
Rosewill Xtreme 850W

Budget:
Main Use: Gaming: 5 Web Browsing: 5

Monitor Resolution: I have a 1920x1200 monitor, don't intend to go higher. The most important thing for me is that I can run games with the Oculus Rift at the highest quality or close to, with whatever FPS is needed.

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: 60 fps (OR might need more?) PhysX is awesome. I need Dark Souls 2 to run at the highest possible settings and maintain smooth FPS. Other than that, I'd like to max out most games like Witcher 3 and stuff like that. When I say max out, I mean have all the options maxed except for those that don't do much but hit performance like crazy.

Looking to reuse any parts?: Whatever I can keep from the listed above.

When will you build?: When the Oculus Rift comes out.

Will you be overclocking?: No

Pretty much, I would like to spend as little as possible if my current specs are more than enough. It would be fantastic if all I needed to change was the video card. But if I have to change more then so be it. Are my parts outdated?
 

FinKL

Member
For the US folks here are a couple good deals that sprung up today:

Thanks for this! Ending up finding a Platinum 850w power supply for $160, Corsair Professional Series 860 Watt Digital ATX/EPS Modular 80 PLUS Platinum Power Supply AX860i on the Amazon computer deals
 

kennah

Member
Is your CPU over clocked?
A budget indication would be very useful


Your specs are likely good for a while. But you really should come back when the OR/games you want are actually released. I haven't been following the info, is the OR soon?

Basically - your CPU is likely still good if you can put a good over clock on it, a 780 would be a massive improvement over what you have now. If it were me I'd over clock the CPU, go up to 12gig of ram (since it's easiest) and upgrade the video card to whatever is a good deal when the stuff you want to play is released.
 

LogicStep

Member
Is your CPU over clocked?
A budget indication would be very useful


Your specs are likely good for a while. But you really should come back when the OR/games you want are actually released. I haven't been following the info, is the OR soon?

Basically - your CPU is likely still good if you can put a good over clock on it, a 780 would be a massive improvement over what you have now. If it were me I'd over clock the CPU, go up to 12gig of ram (since it's easiest) and upgrade the video card to whatever is a good deal when the stuff you want to play is released.
Not over clocked. Don't know about over clocking. But basically what I have is decent, just need a better card and more ram. My card is ok but man does it struggle in some cases. For example Dark Souls lags if I try to up the render resolution so I can't get those super detailed textures like some people around here.

I'll have to check a guide on over clocking, see if I can get away with anything. In the past, every time I tried would mean my PC would crash.
 

kennah

Member
Not over clocked. Don't know about over clocking. But basically what I have is decent, just need a better card and more ram. My card is ok but man does it struggle in some cases. For example Dark Souls lags if I try to up the render resolution so I can't get those super detailed textures like some people around here.

I'll have to check a guide on over clocking, see if I can get away with anything. In the past, every time I tried would mean my PC would crash.

If you have the stock Intel cooler on the CPU - that would be the reason. The Hyper 212 is cheap and quite good. I'm not too well versed in your particular CPU, but you should be able to get a bit of extra oomph out of it. The older i7s are still quite competitive for gaming.

All around, I'd not spend too much money just yet, wait a little longer, see what comes out.
 

LogicStep

Member
If you have the stock Intel cooler on the CPU - that would be the reason. The Hyper 212 is cheap and quite good. I'm not too well versed in your particular CPU, but you should be able to get a bit of extra oomph out of it. The older i7s are still quite competitive for gaming.

All around, I'd not spend too much money just yet, wait a little longer, see what comes out.

I have the Hyper 212 however, I didn't have it when I tried overclocking. I think my rig will be fine for Dark Souls 2. I'm just thinking ahead of time for the OR. :)
 

riflen

Member
Water Block stuff

EKWB should be providing support to you in this case. I would send them what you've posted here explaining the problem and also demonstrating proof of the card's model.

I'd stick to EKWB's instructions. I wouldn't try to get it to fit by adding pads. If you do, you'll only know if it's successful once you've put it in your loop and tested. That can be quite time-consuming, especially if you have to drain the coolant. Also if the block doesn't fit properly, you run the risk of bending the board.

The ball's in EKWB's court imo. They've sold you a product that's supposed to fit that card. According to their site, that product has only been visually inspected for compatibility, rather than physically tested.
 
I just built my new pc and everything see,s to be running okay apart from I installed a USB wifi dongle so I could connect to the internet, however the internet is now running very slowly. It has full signal and its speed is 117 Mbps, so why does my speed drop so dramatically? I do a speed test and its around 1mbs on my pc, whereas on my macbook its 20 mbs. Is there a reason why it's so slow?
 

mkenyon

Banned
QGv7ubk.jpg


Any tips on what to do in this case? Thermal pad and water block don't connect - ~1mm gap.

First thing to note: I use the recommended/compatible water block listed on EKWB's website for my card. It's a EK-FC680GTX+ on a Gainward GeForce GTX770 Phantom GDDR5 4Go (2968).
Second thing to note, in the manual they recommend using a 0.5mm thermal pad on those component for gainward PCBs and 1.5mm on original PCBs.
Third thing to note, there's also another place where I think it does not connect (because once I removed the block to verify, only those two places did not have the pads stick on the block. It's on Yellow in the following image:
hhng.jpg


Do I stack thermal pads? Do I use the 1.5mm one instead even though they wrote not to? Leave the gap? (I guess not, those should be important to cool down).

Also, EKWB told me in an email not to place a thermal pad on the green area, do you agree? Why wouldn't I put one there if I need to place one on the lower Yellow area?
The yellow stuff shouldn't have pads, those are capacitors. Except for yellow A), which you should swap with the green. The instructions are probably confusing because you have a non-reference card.

Use thicker thermal pads for the one point where it's not connecting.
I just built my new pc and everything see,s to be running okay apart from I installed a USB wifi dongle so I could connect to the internet, however the internet is now running very slowly. It has full signal and its speed is 117 Mbps, so why does my speed drop so dramatically? I do a speed test and its around 1mbs on my pc, whereas on my macbook its 20 mbs. Is there a reason why it's so slow?
Bolded is why it's slow. Those things suck.
Thinking of replacing my Corsair CX500M for a Seasonic G650. Do you guys think this should give me reasonable overhead for a 780 (or better) or should I go higher with my PSU? Maybe this 860 platinum Seasonic?
Yes, G650.
 
finally saved enough money for a new rig

but I am totally lost. Which CPU vendor should I go with? FX 8350 seems awesome, but i5 4650k is ideal? Going with AMD, I can save a lot on mobo + cpu costs

please help
 

mkenyon

Banned
finally saved enough money for a new rig

but I am totally lost. Which CPU vendor should I go with? FX 8350 seems awesome, but i5 4650k is ideal? Going with AMD, I can save a lot on mobo + cpu costs

please help
For gaming, Intel. 8350 isn't awesome for much outside of content creation. If you want to save money, go with a baseline i5.

There's many reasons why we omit the AMD processors from the OP. They're not gaming processors. They are fantastic budget multimedia creation processors though.
 
For gaming, Intel. 8350 isn't awesome for much outside of content creation. If you want to save money, go with a baseline i5.

There's many reasons why we omit the AMD processors from the OP. They're not gaming processors. They are fantastic budget multimedia creation processors though.

thnx
 

Serandur

Member
Has anyone here ever purchased anything from ShopBLT before? They still have reasonable prices on 280X/290/290Xs (though out of stock, with more being ordered) and I'd like any information about their quality.
 
The yellow stuff shouldn't have pads, those are capacitors. Except for yellow A), which you should swap with the green. The instructions are probably confusing because you have a non-reference card.

So if I understand you correctly :

Green + "lower" Yellow = capacitors = no thermal pads needed even if they do touch the block.
"Higher" Yellow (next to Green) = thicker thermal pad because 0.5mm doesn't connect.

Is that right?

EKWB should be providing support to you in this case. I would send them what you've posted here explaining the problem and also demonstrating proof of the card's model.

I'd stick to EKWB's instructions. I wouldn't try to get it to fit by adding pads. If you do, you'll only know if it's successful once you've put it in your loop and tested. That can be quite time-consuming, especially if you have to drain the coolant. Also if the block doesn't fit properly, you run the risk of bending the board.

The ball's in EKWB's court imo. They've sold you a product that's supposed to fit that card. According to their site, that product has only been visually inspected for compatibility, rather than physically tested.
Yeah I already contacted them but halfway through, they stopped responding because of work hours I presume, so I'm trying to get info where I can and see what most people say.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Anyone looking for a nice PSU should buy this now.

Seasonic 660W Platinum, $99, $79 after MIR. Promo code: EMCYTZT5622
So if I understand you correctly :

Green + "lower" Yellow = capacitors = no thermal pads needed even if they do touch the block.
"Higher" Yellow (next to Green) = thicker thermal pad because 0.5mm doesn't connect.

Is that right?
Yup.

*edit*

To make you feel a bit better, these are some 670s I put blocks on awhile back. The cutout section in the middle that doesn't even have metal is where the capacitors are.

 

mkenyon

Banned
Thanks. Well anyway I have to buy more thermal pads now, because one or two tiny fibers (probably from some dust) have attached themselves on some of them.
I wouldn't worry too much about that. The parts that get thermal pads typically are cooled by passive cooling stock. Add to the fact that you can't overvolt NVIDIA cards, and the VRMs just are not going to get very hot.

If it were something like a 7970/280X/290, different story.
 

Rrang129

Member
Was sorta covered in the first post, but I had a question about monitors:

I'm looking for a 27 inch monitor, and I'm afraid of ghosting issues... but I don't want to spend too much money. Does anyone know of a decent 27 inch monitor good for gaming?

Thanks!
 

mkenyon

Banned
Was sorta covered in the first post, but I had a question about monitors:

I'm looking for a 27 inch monitor, and I'm afraid of ghosting issues... but I don't want to spend too much money. Does anyone know of a decent 27 inch monitor good for gaming?

Thanks!
The QNIX would be your best bet if you're sensitive to poor motion resolution. I assume you're talking 1440p?
 

Rrang129

Member
The QNIX would be your best bet if you're sensitive to poor motion resolution. I assume you're talking 1440p?

No I still want to be 1080p... I know it's not "future proof" and that 1080p might look bad on a larger screen, but I'm okay with that.

Plus, my GPU - which I won't be upgrading for a few more years - supports 1920x1080 quite nicely... I think bumping it up will bring down my performance.

But then again... I suppose it's better to get the higher resolution monitor for when I do upgrade... ugh, decisions, decisions.
 

mkenyon

Banned
No I still want to be 1080p... I know it's not "future proof" and that 1080p might look bad on a larger screen, but I'm okay with that.

Plus, my GPU - which I won't be upgrading for a few more years - supports 1920x1080 quite nicely... I think bumping it up will bring down my performance.

But then again... I suppose it's better to get the higher resolution monitor for when I do upgrade... ugh, decisions, decisions.
I really do think that 23-24" is perfect for 1080p, and the VG248QE is currently the king of those. Well, outside of the Eizo, but that's $600.

If you want 27" though, the VG278HE is an outstanding one.
 
I wouldn't worry too much about that. The parts that get thermal pads typically are cooled by passive cooling stock. Add to the fact that you can't overvolt NVIDIA cards, and the VRMs just are not going to get very hot.

If it were something like a 7970/280X/290, different story.

Well I hope I did good because I've just put it together, with the backplate too. I stacked two (newly cut) 0.5mm where it did not connect ("upper" Yellow) and, well, it fit well I think.
 
Is running two 7950s and a lightly overclocked (4.2GHz) i7-3770k off a Seasonic X-Series 650W safe? I'm kicking myself that I didn't go for the 750W, but I'll probably never crossfire/SLI anyways, so it doesn't matter. Just curious. I get conflicting information from searches, and I trust the people in this thread more.
 

cyen

Member
Is running two 7950s and a lightly overclocked (4.2GHz) i7-3770k off a Seasonic X-Series 650W safe? I'm kicking myself that I didn't go for the 750W, but I'll probably never crossfire/SLI anyways, so it doesn't matter. Just curious. I get conflicting information from searches, and I trust the people in this thread more.

That´s to tight mate. I would upgrade to at least a quality 750W just to be on the safe side, or if you want to overclock the cards since they do clock over 1ghz.
 

Dina

Member
I got a pretty noisy R9 280X videocard, anyone know when new aftermarket coolers for these cards will be introduced. Arctic Accelero Xtreme III is only confirmed on the 270X and 290X.
 

kharma45

Member
Is running two 7950s and a lightly overclocked (4.2GHz) i7-3770k off a Seasonic X-Series 650W safe? I'm kicking myself that I didn't go for the 750W, but I'll probably never crossfire/SLI anyways, so it doesn't matter. Just curious. I get conflicting information from searches, and I trust the people in this thread more.

That´s to tight mate. I would upgrade to at least a quality 750W just to be on the safe side, or if you want to overclock the cards since they do clock over 1ghz.

It should be just about OK. That unit can pull 794w when under full load http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Seasonic-X-Series-650-W-Power-Supply-Review/837/8 but I'd still prefer the 750w one just to be 100% sure, but if it were my own system I'd probably do it.
 
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