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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Yup.
There's big slots on the front of the chassis, and in the case of the Define R4, there are two at the top. Those are meant for 5.25" (wide) devices, but the case is shipped with a little adapter so you can use 3.5" devices instead.
unknownhero
Member
I need help. I just got my desktop today but I cannot get it to show up on my monitor. it's not the vga cable or the monitor itself because i tried using my laptop's vga dock and it shows up on there. any suggestions?
unknownhero
Member
tried an hdmi, still nothing.
edit: might be worth noting that I'm using the motherboard ports
edit: might be worth noting that I'm using the motherboard ports
Both on the video card and motherboard?
unknownhero
Member
just the motherboard, my vid card doesn't have a vga port
Get a VGA->DVI dongle. Just about every video card comes with one.
You need to use the video card outputs.
unknownhero
Member
holy shit, thank you! I'm such an idiot lol. I'll get one tomorrow.
so wait, why are those ports on the motherboard in the first place?
to below, I did with the same result.
so wait, why are those ports on the motherboard in the first place?
to below, I did with the same result.
Try HDMI to your TV.
Ultimatepancake
Banned
Hey guys do you think the 4670k will go down in price once new broadwells come out?
Also do you think that the iGPU in it (4670k) could handle dolphin? (since most of the work is done on the CPU). I'm just wondering because I might wait for a sale or price drop on the 760 to save a bit more money.
Also on that note do you think the 760 will drop in price anytime in the next 3 months or so?
They're for integrated gpus. People who don't play games can skip buying a discrete graphics card and use them instead. Comes built in with all intel CPUs
Also do you think that the iGPU in it (4670k) could handle dolphin? (since most of the work is done on the CPU). I'm just wondering because I might wait for a sale or price drop on the 760 to save a bit more money.
Also on that note do you think the 760 will drop in price anytime in the next 3 months or so?
They're for integrated gpus. People who don't play games can skip buying a discrete graphics card and use them instead. Comes built in with all intel CPUs
Hullos all!
I'm going to build a new rig in the near future, and this is the setup I'm looking at right now:
CPU: Intel Core i7 4770K - 3.5 GHz - 4 c/8t - 8 MB cache - SOCKET 1150
Graphics: ASUS GTX780TI-DC2OC-3GD5
Motherboard: ASUS MAXIMUS VI HERO
RAM: 4x4GB G.Skill Ripjaws-X - 1866 MHz
SSD: Samsung 840 EVO MZ-7TE250 250GB
HDD: WD Red WD30EFRX 3TB
PSU: Cooler Master GM Series - 750W
CPU Cooling: Noctua NH-U12S+
Optical Drive: ASUS BC 12D2HT - DVD±RW (±R DL) / DVD-RAM / BD-ROM - 12x - Serial ATA
My question is: Is it worth the extra money to upgrade the CPU to a Intel Core i7 4930K - 3.4 GHz - 6x/12t?
I'll mainly be using it for gaming and for stuff like video conversion etc. No Photoshop/3D (Maya) stuff.
I'm going to build a new rig in the near future, and this is the setup I'm looking at right now:
CPU: Intel Core i7 4770K - 3.5 GHz - 4 c/8t - 8 MB cache - SOCKET 1150
Graphics: ASUS GTX780TI-DC2OC-3GD5
Motherboard: ASUS MAXIMUS VI HERO
RAM: 4x4GB G.Skill Ripjaws-X - 1866 MHz
SSD: Samsung 840 EVO MZ-7TE250 250GB
HDD: WD Red WD30EFRX 3TB
PSU: Cooler Master GM Series - 750W
CPU Cooling: Noctua NH-U12S+
Optical Drive: ASUS BC 12D2HT - DVD±RW (±R DL) / DVD-RAM / BD-ROM - 12x - Serial ATA
My question is: Is it worth the extra money to upgrade the CPU to a Intel Core i7 4930K - 3.4 GHz - 6x/12t?
I'll mainly be using it for gaming and for stuff like video conversion etc. No Photoshop/3D (Maya) stuff.
Cpus rarely drop in price when the new ones come out (because they are still a valid upgrade path on older gear)
I seriously doubt the 760 will get a price drop in the next few months if ever.
unknownhero
Member
I guess if there is a card installed that will override the intergrated gpus correct?
Ultimatepancake
Banned
Ok thanks
then I guess there's no better time than the present to buy both because if I don't ill just be waiting forever Depends what you have now. While the 760 is the best performance to dollar right now it still annoys me that it is just a 670 with a different sticker.Ok thanks
Need some help with my PC build, haven't been keeping up with the last 5 years.
My current build after preliminary research: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/2V5wX
Questions:
1. I plan to do some minor overclocking, but I don't foresee min/maxing the settings. Is the CPU cooler overkill? The Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO seems like it does the job at less than half the price.
2. Reviews seem to indicate the Fractal Define R4 case is the quietest, but I've seen some mention on forums of the USB / front sockets being misaligned / defective. Is there a better ATX Mid Tower for my build?
3. I know almost nothing about Power Supply selection, pretty much chose the highest rated 750w one. Good move?
4. KBM / Mouse I chose mainly for gaming, I play in claw grip. This will be my first mechanical keyboard and first Razer product. From what I've heard the Red keys are best for gaming, and Brown for hybrid gaming/typing. Were my choices solid?
5. Monitor selection. All I knew was that I wanted an IPS gaming monitor. The Asus VS239H-P came up the most in discussions, great value at the price. Is there better value in another monitor?
Any additional modification suggestions are welcome.
Thanks!
My current build after preliminary research: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/2V5wX
Questions:
1. I plan to do some minor overclocking, but I don't foresee min/maxing the settings. Is the CPU cooler overkill? The Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO seems like it does the job at less than half the price.
2. Reviews seem to indicate the Fractal Define R4 case is the quietest, but I've seen some mention on forums of the USB / front sockets being misaligned / defective. Is there a better ATX Mid Tower for my build?
3. I know almost nothing about Power Supply selection, pretty much chose the highest rated 750w one. Good move?
4. KBM / Mouse I chose mainly for gaming, I play in claw grip. This will be my first mechanical keyboard and first Razer product. From what I've heard the Red keys are best for gaming, and Brown for hybrid gaming/typing. Were my choices solid?
5. Monitor selection. All I knew was that I wanted an IPS gaming monitor. The Asus VS239H-P came up the most in discussions, great value at the price. Is there better value in another monitor?
Any additional modification suggestions are welcome.
Thanks!
Ultimatepancake
Banned
Right now I'm using an i5 2300 and an HD 5000 something. It's my family's computer and its ok for what my dad wants to do (checking emails is basically it lol) but its not very good for gaming. So I'm building from scratch
For some odd reason, CanadaPost delivered my order on holiday! So, I was able to build my simple gaming PC today!
Still no GPU since I'm still looking for any good deal before buying one. Thanks again Kharma for helping me!
PS. The fans the came from 200R is a little bit noisy :lol
Still no GPU since I'm still looking for any good deal before buying one. Thanks again Kharma for helping me!
PS. The fans the came from 200R is a little bit noisy :lol
thunder_snail
Member
1) Yes that's an overkill. For minor overclocking, try to find a quality heatsink for about $40~50 dollars.
2) Not too sure.
3) Looks like you won't need 750w psu. In my opinion, if you're going to use the computer for gaming, get a 650w psu (a quality one, non-modular if you want to save some money), get a cheaper motherboard at around $150 (z87 from either asus or gigabyte), and get a 780 3gb instead of 770 2gb.
The final price should be almost the same if you take into account the cheaper mobo, psu and cooler.
LonelyVagrant
Member
Appreciate the help! I might have to look into the 760. Maybe I'll grab the CPU and PSU later down the line.
Noctua 120mm, Anti-Stall Knobs Design,SSO2 Bearing PWM Case Cooling Fan NF-S12A PWM
neurosisxeno
Member
If you do a lot of video conversion you will see a performance gain adding 2 cores and 4 extra threads. But I would only recommend that if it's a huge hobby or a means of living for you, otherwise it's probably not worth the extra $300-400.
1. Yes it is, a Hyper 212 with maybe an extra fan for Push/Pull will do just as well.
2. Yes and No. It's one of the quietest, but the trade offs is the temps aren't always the best. A case that edges it out around the same price point is the Antec 1100. Temps are some of the best around and it's about half a dB quieter at full load in most situations.
3. Not always. You probably don't need an 80+ Gold PSU, you might not even need a 750w PSU. If you're going for a 750w PSU your best bet is to find a solid 80+ Bronze PSU that reviews well. That being said though, that PSU is actually a pretty good deal, and I would say go for it.
4. DeathAdders are okay, but I'm not a huge fan of the Corsair peripherals. You might want to consider the Razer Black Widow, i've heard nothing but good things about it.
5. There are better values, but honestly, we're talking $5-10 here and there and and inch here and there. Just go with the ASUS.
Additional: That Motherboard is overkill. You will not need a motherboard that costly unless you're going for bleeding edge overclocks, and even then there are probably better and/or cheaper alternatives.
If you went planning on OCing and wanted a 4C/8T CPU you can save some cash and buy one of the consumer level Xeon's. They run a bit cooler anyway and I'm sure you could find a passive cooling setup that wouldn't compromise too much. Prepare for a massive heatsink and pricetag though.
Hey PC-Gaf, finally got my build up and running this morning. Just have one problem though. I installed Windows 8.1 and it reads my Samsung 840 SSD and my 1TB WD Blue HDD on the bios and says they're functioning, but when I'm on windows and go to check my drives, only the SSD shows up and the HDD is just missing. I'm really confused now about it.
For reference I bought http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236339. I plugged it into SATA 3 as it said it was 6.0gb/s.
For reference I bought http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236339. I plugged it into SATA 3 as it said it was 6.0gb/s.
neurosisxeno
Member
You have to open the storage device manager in windows and actually format the HDD, otherwise Windows will not detect it.
Storage Device Manager? Ugh still trying to get used to Windows 8.1. Been on 7 for so long and haven't really touched 8 outside of a mobile device. It really tripped me up right now as I know where nothing is lol.
You need to go into disk manager and mount the drive. Right click on the window icon on the bottom left on the desktop and select disk manager. Follow the prompts from there
Iced_Eagle
Member
Here is the single most important tip you need to know with Windows 8/8.1 as a power user:
Right click the start button
From there select Disk Management and you should be able to format your drive in there and assign it a drive letter.
That power user menu also has easy access to shutdown options and all of the power user stuff that you need to access frequently.
Second tip, the best way to launch apps is to use Windows key + Q to open the universal search and then just type the name of the app and select it like you could in the start menu in 7. Doesn't go full screen and works great (and it also searches control panel settings, web search, etc).
Third tip, turn on boot to desktop if you haven't already. Right click taskbar -> Properties -> Navigation and check the box for "When I sign in or close all apps on a screen, go to the desktop instead of Start".
Thanks just found it. What should I be saving on my SSD and what should I be putting on my HDD now that I have both?
Also I had all my steam games on an External from my last computer when I had Windows 7. Anyway to connect and play or would I have to redownload everything?
Iced_Eagle
Member
You shouldn't have to redownload everything. Just plug in the drive, and in Steam settings select Downloads and change the Content Libraries to add your HDD. You can also move the games you
The main things to keep on your SSD are the OS and key applications and games. Basically anything you want to go super fast. How many apps/games you install to the SSD is dependent on how big your drive is.
Things you definitely want to keep on the HDD are media, so keep your music, pictures and videos on the HDD since they don't have any benefit from being on an SSD and can generally take up a lot of space.
It's not - it's just the most CPU-intensive thing I've been doing lately.
Thanks for your reply, highly appreciated!
It tells me that the disk drive has 350mb System Reserved Partition and won't allow me to format it, even though my windows is installed on the SSD.
Iced_Eagle
Member
I only have a single drive on my current machine, so can't double check this.
However, on mine, if I right click the System Reserved volume at the top (not within the visual disk layout) the delete volume option is available. If I right click within the disk itself, that option is not there which is probably what you're seeing.
Now, I'm assuming you probably have two System Reserved volumes listed at the top? If so, you should be able to see which one is on the HDD which you shouldn't need anymore and delete it from the volume list.
*Edit* BTW, sorry I haven't been following your previous posts, but I'm assuming that you did a fresh install of Windows onto the SSD (which should have included a new system reserved volume during the installation), and your old Windows HDD is now plugged in which is where the extra system reserved volume is?
Let me know if this works because I'm going to be doing the same thing on Wednesday when my new rig comes.
I only have a single drive on my current machine, so can't double check this.
However, on mine, if I right click the System Reserved volume at the top (not within the visual disk layout) the delete volume option is available. If I right click within the disk itself, that option is not there which is probably what you're seeing.
Now, I'm assuming you probably have two System Reserved volumes listed at the top? If so, you should be able to see which one is on the HDD which you shouldn't need anymore and delete it from the volume list.
*Edit* BTW, sorry I haven't been following your previous posts, but I'm assuming that you did a fresh install of Windows onto the SSD (which should have included a new system reserved volume during the installation), and your old Windows HDD is now plugged in which is where the extra system reserved volume is?
Let me know if this works because I'm going to be doing the same thing on Wednesday when my new rig comes.
I went to try to delete it but it just tells me that Windows cannot delete the active system partition on the disk. I may have hit something on accident when setting everything up and now I'm pretty confused.
neurosisxeno
Member
You still haven't clarified--does the HDD have a Windows Installation on it?
If YES; Do you want to delete everything on that drive?
If so then boot from a Windows Install disk and when it gets to the drive selection section, highlight the HDD and format/delete the contents of it, then you should be able to format it and when you load back in and boot from your SSD it will detect the new HDD and allows you to put stuff on it.
If YES; You want to copy stuff from it?
Your best bet may be to acquire (if someone you know has one) some sort of removal storage and move it all on to that. If it's just games, unless you have an internet data cap Steam downloads the stuff pretty quickly, and a fresh install will actually allow you to just install the games you want to play. Although you might lose some save data (anything not placed in the Steam Cloud). You could also try burning stuff to Data DVD's/BR's, but that may take a while. If you have a spare HDD you could pop that in and boot from the old HDD and copy anything you want to save onto that one. Once the data you want to save is all squared away see the above section.
If NO; See the top step and try formatting it from the Windows Installer.
Thanks for your answers, much appreciated.
I'm just still wondering how to watch tv on the computer, and if I need a tv tuner card.
Anyway, is this Asus internal Blu-ray writer good and fast?
Also, what does "For 3.5 PC front bay" with this card reader mean? I have a Fractal R4 case.
Jesus dude...
lostsupper
Banned
thunder_snail
Member
Thanks for your answers, much appreciated.
I'm just still wondering how to watch tv on the computer, and if I need a tv tuner card.
Anyway, is this Asus internal Blu-ray writer good and fast?
Also, what does "For 3.5 PC front bay" with this card reader mean? I have a Fractal R4 case.
As for watching TV, yes you need a tv tuner card. Recently, many monitors have built in TV capabilities so you should check your monitor before investing in a card though.
Any blu-ray writer should be good. Although typical computer drives are quite loud...
It seems like your Fractal R4 doesn't have a 3.5 drive bay. Try to find a 5.25 card reader on the internet. 3.5 drive are the ones that have the same size as the floppy drives while 5.25 have the same size as your dvd/blu-ray drives.
neurosisxeno
Member
You can get a set of brackets and a face plate that will allow you to put a 3.5 drive into a 5.25 bay.
Brofist
Member
My Razer Naga mouse is flaking out on me, and I'm looking for a replacement. Doesn't necessarily have to be an MMO mouse. Any suggestions?
I'm hoping for under $100 and only want wired. I've heard SteelSeries makes a good mouse. Anyone here have any experience with their products.
I'm hoping for under $100 and only want wired. I've heard SteelSeries makes a good mouse. Anyone here have any experience with their products.
Iced_Eagle
Member
Could you take a screenshot of the disk management app and post it? That would be super helpful instead of me trying to guess.
*Edit* Yeah, it's possible something was configured incorrectly when installing Windows. During the step where you setup your partitions is where it also lists where the system reserved volume will live and gives you a chance to change it.
Depending on how much time you've spent configuring everything, it may be worth just reformatting Windows and making sure you set that up correctly and make sure the system reserve plus Windows itself lives on your SSD.
neurosisxeno
Member
Check out the Logitech G-Series mice, or consider a SteelSeries Ikari or Sensei. Both are solid choices. I'm personally still rocking an MX518--thing will never die.
Could you take a screenshot of the disk management app and post it? That would be super helpful instead of me trying to guess.
*Edit* Yeah, it's possible something was configured incorrectly when installing Windows. During the step where you setup your partitions is where it also lists where the system reserved volume will live and gives you a chance to change it.
Depending on how much time you've spent configuring everything, it may be worth just reformatting Windows and making sure you set that up correctly and make sure the system reserve plus Windows itself lives on your SSD.
Yeah prob my best option at this point. Thankfully its a brsnd new build and the only thing installed on here is Windows and Google Chrome. Just gonna reformat Windows in the morning
It looks like there's 2 of the 3.5" sizes as well?
I'm very sorry if I'm asking the wrong questions in here but I'm very new to computer components and building.
I'm pretty sure mine has 2 3.5" ports underneath the 5.25" ones unlike the picture below, I'll take a picture of my case.
Yeah, so there's 3.5" internal, which is what hard drives are. Then there's 3.5" external, which is what that bay device is that you are looking at.
Don't worry about it, that's what this thread is all about. Some people just don't understand being helpful apparently. They probably just got out of a really bad Dota match
The SteelSeries Rival is the most accurate and best mouse on the market. Zero interpolation, fantastic ergonomics.
theSlacker
Member
Just wish that a company made a mouse with a great sensor and feel like that, but also a ton of buttons like a g700. Hate having to switch back and forth for when I'm playing mmos where I've gotten too use to a bunch of buttons on the mouse.
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