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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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appaws

Banned
Alright thanx. But i have 2 more questions. This is my new breakdown, it will cose $970 to $1000

-Rosewill ATX 12V 650-Watt 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Power Supply Hive-650

-EVGA EVGA GeForce GTX 970 ACX 2.0 4GB GDDR5 256bit, DVI-I, DVI-D, HDMI, DP SLI Ready Graphics Card Graphics Cards 04G-P4-2972-KR

-WD Green 2 TB Desktop Hard Drive: 3.5 Inch, SATA III, 64 MB Cache - WD20EZRX

-Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory (CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10)

-ASRock ATX DDR3 1333 LGA 1150 Motherboards H97M PRO4

-Intel I5-4440 Processor BX80646I54440

Would a mini atx or micro atx case work?

Does it matter what make of Gefore GTX 970 card I buy? Must it be EVGA?

A mini-itx case or a micro-atx case are different sizes...and you might need different motherboards, CPU coolers, and/or Video Cards depending on the size of the case you pick. So you have to make that decision first. Mini-ITX is the smallest...Micro-ATX is a little bigger and will give you some more options.

No, there is no reason that you have to buy an EVGA card....you can buy whatever card you want...the top-tier brands are EVGA, Gigabyte, Asus, MSI, Sapphire, and XFX.

You suddenly decided to spend more money than you were talking about before, which is good....but why are you settled on those same parts...? You keep posting them over and over no matter what suggestions I make...? I don't think you should buy those parts.

You can do much better than that for $1000 (790 Euros)....you should look at the suggested builds in the OP and start your selection process from there. You could also look at the system guide at Techreport.com for a second opinion to the ones you are getting here.

You could also look over Mkenyon's Small Form Factor build sheets (link in OP) for excellent ideas if you decide to go that route.
 

jrush64

Banned
A mini-itx case or a micro-atx case are different sizes...and you might need different motherboards, CPU coolers, and/or Video Cards depending on the size of the case you pick. So you have to make that decision first. Mini-ITX is the smallest...Micro-ATX is a little bigger and will give you some more options.

No, there is no reason that you have to buy an EVGA card....you can buy whatever card you want...the top-tier brands are EVGA, Gigabyte, Asus, MSI, Sapphire, and XFX.

You suddenly decided to spend more money than you were talking about before, which is good....but why are you settled on those same parts...? You keep posting them over and over no matter what suggestions I make...? I don't think you should buy those parts.

You can do much better than that for $1000 (790 Euros)....you should look at the suggested builds in the OP and start your selection process from there. You could also look at the system guide at Techreport.com for a second opinion to the ones you are getting here.

You could also look over Mkenyon's Small Form Factor build sheets (link in OP) for excellent ideas if you decide to go that route.

The reason why I settled on those parts are because I used choosemyPC.net and those were the parts they gave me. I just thought I'll use them.

Alright, I'll look at the OP. Thanx for the advice.

I really just wanna play Sims 3 and Sims 4 without issues.
 

appaws

Banned
The reason why I settled on those parts are because I used choosemyPC.net and those were the parts they gave me. I just thought I'll use them.

Alright, I'll look at the OP. Thanx for the advice.

I really just wanna play Sims 3 and Sims 4 without issues.

I just played around with that site a little and it gave some goofy picks. Not the worst I've ever seen, but some weird suggestions that I would change. It keeps coming back to the same GTX 770, and for some reason it always seems to choose that same 650w Rosewill PSU every time.

I think that for 780 Euros you will have no problem putting together a kick ass machine that will play the Sims games and lots of other stuff no problem!

Here in America it is time for me to go to bed....but I am thinking one of the other Euro guys on here can help you and maybe suggest a good place to buy stuff for someone who lives in Portugal. Boa noite.
 

jrush64

Banned
I just played around with that site a little and it gave some goofy picks. Not the worst I've ever seen, but some weird suggestions that I would change. It keeps coming back to the same GTX 770, and for some reason it always seems to choose that same 650w Rosewill PSU every time.

I think that for 780 Euros you will have no problem putting together a kick ass machine that will play the Sims games and lots of other stuff no problem!

Here in America it is time for me to go to bed....but I am thinking one of the other Euro guys on here can help you and maybe suggest a good place to buy stuff for someone who lives in Portugal. Boa noite.

Alright thanks for the help man. Have a good night sleep.
 
Is there a trick to getting ULMB to work in-game? When turned on it tanks my framerate to 55-60 in Fear of all things! If I turn it off and activate gsync I'm getting an easy 120 FPS(much more I'm sure, but gsync caps it) Same issue in Doom 3 BFG, although there it's in the 80s at least.

Second question, is there anything I should do to prepare for SLI? One 780Ti just isn't cutting it at 2560x1440 for a lot of more recent games if I want to maintain 45+ 30-40 FPS still feels pretty bad even with gsync. Plus I'd love to actually get to play games at 120 FPS, doesn't really seem possible right now in most cases.
 
So are all wireless mice crap for gaming? I feel like I have bad latency and/or little precision with a wireless mouse when playing games like Civ 5. I'm about 12 feet away from the computer. I've gone through two models of Logitech with that universal receiver dongle and both exhibit the same problems.
 

hoserx

Member
So are all wireless mice crap for gaming? I feel like I have bad latency and/or little precision with a wireless mouse when playing games like Civ 5. I'm about 12 feet away from the computer. I've gone through two models of Logitech with that universal receiver dongle and both exhibit the same problems.

I never use my naga in wireless mode when gaming, especially when playing an FPS or anything that requires precision.
 

riflen

Member
Is there a trick to getting ULMB to work in-game? When turned on it tanks my framerate to 55-60 in Fear of all things! If I turn it off and activate gsync I'm getting an easy 120 FPS(much more I'm sure, but gsync caps it) Same issue in Doom 3 BFG, although there it's in the 80s at least.

You don't say what display you're using (ROG Swift?), or the refresh rate you've set, or if you're using Vsync when trying to use ULMB mode. ULMB is just strobing of the monitor backlight.

It sounds like the games you're playing use double-buffering and you've enabled Vsync. If your display is set to 120Hz, then you need to maintain a strict 120fps for ULMB to work as intended. If you cannot maintain 120fps, then you need to set the display to 60Hz or 85Hz instead and enable ULMB.

Second question, is there anything I should do to prepare for SLI? One 780Ti just isn't cutting it at 2560x1440 for a lot of more recent games if I want to maintain 45+ 30-40 FPS still feels pretty bad even with gsync. Plus I'd love to actually get to play games at 120 FPS, doesn't really seem possible right now in most cases.

Make sure your PSU is sufficient. A good 850 watts unit should be good enough.
 

Acheteedo

Member
Hi PC-GAF, I'm looking to 'build' a PC for work and pleasure, I say 'build' but really I need a company like dinopc.com to do that for me, as I don't have the required knowledge. Here's the info:

Your Current Specs: 8 year old PC, 3 year old laptop, need to start from scratch
Budget: £4,000 including monitor, United Kingdom
Main Use: Gaming (5), Video Editing (1), Streaming games in HD (1), 3D/Model work (and what program) (5 - Blender), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) (4).
Monitor Resolution: 1440p, possibly 4k, will need a monitor to match
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
The main thing that it needs to run well is Blender, as an amateur image maker I (somehow) get freelance work, this image work is starting to develop nicely so I'd like to be able to take on more complicated projects, however my laptop struggles with too many vertices in the scene. I gather that I need a good CPU with lots of cores to help speed up the rendering, and a fat GPU with a good chunk of VRAM to handle all those vertices in real time. NVIDIA is essential in order to work with Blender, and while two cards via SLI is supported, it will only use one card's VRAM so I'd like to get a beastly single card which I could then double up on a few years down the line,
Elite Dangerous at 1440p, AA'd like crazy, 60fps,
Oculus Rift at high fps and AA,
Delving into SuperSampling and Downsampling would be great.
Looking to reuse any parts?: No
When will you build, do you have a deadline?: I want it in 2014, unless there is a very good reason to wait for early 2015.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes (but not implementing this myself!)

Here is a build I knocked up on dinopc.com:

CPU: Intel Core i7 5820K Extreme
CPU Overclocking: 4.3Ghz
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i Extreme Water Cooler
Operating System: Windows 8.1 (64-bit)
Motherboard: Gigabyte X99-UD4
RAM: 32GB Corsair 2800mhz Vengeance LPX DDR4 (8x4GB)
Hard Drive: Crucial 256GB MX100 SSD
Secondary Hard Drive: Seagate 2TB (Hybrid 8GB SSD)
Optical Drive: 22x DVD±RW DL S-ATA
Graphics card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX Titan Black 6GB
Sound card: Onboard 7.1 Audio
Case: Corsair Graphite 730T
PSU: 1200W Corsair AX Digital Modular

Some quick questions:
How does this look? Any noticeable weak points or parts that are pointlessly overpowered?
Would this comfortably support 4k or should I just go with a good 1440p monitor?
Is the Intel Core i7 5930K Extreme worth it over the 5820K?
Is 2800mhz RAM overkill?
Will the motherboard support two graphics cards down the line? Should I get the Gigabyte X99-Gaming 5 or the ASUS X99-5 instead?
Worth getting a better soundcard? I'll just be using headphones or 2.1 sound most of the time.
No clue what to do when it comes to cases, the above is just the default, not sure if I'm paying for style over substance with any of the other options, I wouldn't mind spending more on a quieter, cooler case.

Any input is appreciated, thanks a million!
 

Zaph

Member
Is this Gigabyte motherboard promotion legit? Anyone used it before? http://www.aria.co.uk/gigabyte/blackedition

They're basically offering a free like-for-like upgrade within 3 years (you can even skip a generation), the FAQ seems reasonable enough too.

Usually I buy Asus motherboards and Gigabyte GPU's, but with an offer like that I could happily go all Gigabyte.
 
Kind of a noob but how much would a PC that would be able to run BL2 + the Pre-Sequel at 1080/60 on high settings cost? I live in the UK if that helps.

I have a PS4 so would be using that for most things but I used to be a PC gamer so I have a modest collection on steam, and would also use it as a sort of media centre.
 
Hi PC-GAF, I'm looking to 'build' a PC for work and pleasure, I say 'build' but really I need a company like dinopc.com to do that for me, as I don't have the required knowledge. Here's the info:

Your Current Specs: 8 year old PC, 3 year old laptop, need to start from scratch
Budget: £4,000 including monitor, United Kingdom
Main Use: Gaming (5), Video Editing (1), Streaming games in HD (1), 3D/Model work (and what program) (5 - Blender), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) (4).
Monitor Resolution: 1440p, possibly 4k, will need a monitor to match
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
The main thing that it needs to run well is Blender, as an amateur image maker I (somehow) get freelance work, this image work is starting to develop nicely so I'd like to be able to take on more complicated projects, however my laptop struggles with too many vertices in the scene. I gather that I need a good CPU with lots of cores to help speed up the rendering, and a fat GPU with a good chunk of VRAM to handle all those vertices in real time. NVIDIA is essential in order to work with Blender, and while two cards via SLI is supported, it will only use one card's VRAM so I'd like to get a beastly single card which I could then double up on a few years down the line,
Elite Dangerous at 1440p, AA'd like crazy, 60fps,
Oculus Rift at high fps and AA,
Delving into SuperSampling and Downsampling would be great.
Looking to reuse any parts?: No
When will you build, do you have a deadline?: I want it in 2014, unless there is a very good reason to wait for early 2015.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes (but not implementing this myself!)

Here is a build I knocked up on dinopc.com:

CPU: Intel Core i7 5820K Extreme
CPU Overclocking: 4.3Ghz
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i Extreme Water Cooler
Operating System: Windows 8.1 (64-bit)
Motherboard: Gigabyte X99-UD4
RAM: 32GB Corsair 2800mhz Vengeance LPX DDR4 (8x4GB)
Hard Drive: Crucial 256GB MX100 SSD
Secondary Hard Drive: Seagate 2TB (Hybrid 8GB SSD)
Optical Drive: 22x DVD±RW DL S-ATA
Graphics card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX Titan Black 6GB
Sound card: Onboard 7.1 Audio
Case: Corsair Graphite 730T
PSU: 1200W Corsair AX Digital Modular

Some quick questions:
How does this look? Any noticeable weak points or parts that are pointlessly overpowered?
Would this comfortably support 4k or should I just go with a good 1440p monitor?
Is the Intel Core i7 5930K Extreme worth it over the 5820K?
Is 2800mhz RAM overkill?
Will the motherboard support two graphics cards down the line? Should I get the Gigabyte X99-Gaming 5 or the ASUS X99-5 instead?
Worth getting a better soundcard? I'll just be using headphones or 2.1 sound most of the time.
No clue what to do when it comes to cases, the above is just the default, not sure if I'm paying for style over substance with any of the other options, I wouldn't mind spending more on a quieter, cooler case.

Any input is appreciated, thanks a million!

Question: why blender? With other programs(maya, 3ds max,) there are ways to offset your rendering processes to your gpu, depending on what renderer your using.

I'm just not a fan of blender.
 

G.Newell

Member
Hey guys, just a quick question regarding graphics cards. My friend is planning on getting a new computer and the card he's getting is the 970 which does seem a great card. My question is what do we know about the new cards coming early next year. I remember seeing a thread on it saying amd will launch first using the next gen memory and we would see a massive increase in performance compared to the usual 10%. Has there been any more news on this?
 
Hey guys, just a quick question regarding graphics cards. My friend is planning on getting a new computer and the card he's getting is the 970 which does seem a great card. My question is what do we know about the new cards coming early next year. I remember seeing a thread on it saying amd will launch first using the next gen memory and we would see a massive increase in performance compared to the usual 10%. Has there been any more news on this?

No info at all. The 970 is probably the safest card you can buy in terms of future-proofing... it also smashed the price/performance quotient of previous cards.
 

G.Newell

Member
No info at all. The 970 is probably the safest card you can buy in terms of future-proofing... it also smashed the price/performance quotient of previous cards.

Well I've also said get the 970 for those exact reasons. He just wanted to be aware of what is coming but when he asked on overclockers he was told there's no way amd will put out something to beat the 970 which I thought was ridiculous when the rumours said there would be 4.5x bandwidth increase. It wouldn't be a very good next gen if it can't beat this gens cards
 

Godan

Member
I currently have 2 monitors. Basically, one in the GPU, and the other in the motherboard. (Believe me, there's a reason why they're not both in the GPU yet) I'm wondering if I should set my Nvidia Control Panel gpu acceleration to multi-monitor, or single monitor. Naturally I'd do Multiple, but I only have 1 monitor in the GPU, soooo....

I just got a second monitor a few days ago but just put it in my hdmi slot of my GPU but didnt so anything else like setting wise.

Is there something I have to do with my scond monitor other than just plug it in and do I need to do anything on my computer regardin setting?

Why dont you have both in the GPU?
 

kennah

Member
Well I've also said get the 970 for those exact reasons. He just wanted to be aware of what is coming but when he asked on overclockers he was told there's no way amd will put out something to beat the 970 which I thought was ridiculous when the rumours said there would be 4.5x bandwidth increase. It wouldn't be a very good next gen if it can't beat this gens cards
So just wait. Oh but when that comes out there will be something better soon after, so you should wait for that instead.. But then again, something better will be coming out a year after that... You're probably not safe buying anything until at least 2020...
 
Kind of a noob but how much would a PC that would be able to run BL2 + the Pre-Sequel at 1080/60 on high settings cost? I live in the UK if that helps.

I have a PS4 so would be using that for most things but I used to be a PC gamer so I have a modest collection on steam, and would also use it as a sort of media centre.

The Solid Starter build in the OP I think should do it, Borderlands 2 isn't demanding. It does like high clock speeds though so you may be best off with getting the G3258 and I think a decent heatsink to overclock it, but I don't know how well it can be overclocked with a stock cooler.

And then as a GPU the 750Ti I think should just be able to do it, although an overclock there would also help.

I'd say that is the bare minimum to run Borderlands 2 on 60 fps/1080P/max settings though.

Hey guys, just a quick question regarding graphics cards. My friend is planning on getting a new computer and the card he's getting is the 970 which does seem a great card. My question is what do we know about the new cards coming early next year. I remember seeing a thread on it saying amd will launch first using the next gen memory and we would see a massive increase in performance compared to the usual 10%. Has there been any more news on this?

There isn't any official news. And the different with the 970/980 is already a lot more than people were expecting. Cards with a new architecture have the possibility to be a lot better, but there is a lot of uncertainty on when those would appear.

I wouldn't rely on stacked memory. No clue how much performance difference it will make, but it seems they first are going to use it for their APUs and not their desktop cards. Bandwidth increase isn't everything either.

I just got a second monitor a few days ago but just put it in my hdmi slot of my GPU but didnt so anything else like setting wise.

Is there something I have to do with my scond monitor other than just plug it in and do I need to do anything on my computer regardin setting?

Why dont you have both in the GPU?

You shouldn't have to do anything else. But I am not sure whether you are saying you have tried plugging it in and it doesn't work, or that you still have to do that.
 
Hi PC-GAF, I'm looking to 'build' a PC for work and pleasure, I say 'build' but really I need a company like dinopc.com to do that for me, as I don't have the required knowledge.

I don't mean to call you out or anything, but "not having the required knowledge" isn't a valid excuse for not building yourself. I knew nothing about building pc's before I built mine, but there are so many guides and tutorials on the internet now, it's very easy.

If you don't have the time to do it or would rather pay a professional, then I guess that's fine. But really all you need to do is watch one of the tutorial videos in post #2 in this thread and you'll have enough knowledge to build one.
 

Godan

Member
You shouldn't have to do anything else. But I am not sure whether you are saying you have tried plugging it in and it doesn't work, or that you still have to do that.


Sorry yes I have it pluged in and it works fine. Was just becasuse the person above said "Nvidia Control Panel gpu acceleration to multi-monitor" I though I had to enable something to make it work correctly other than just extending the displys.
 
Sorry yes I have it pluged in and it works fine. Was just becasuse the person above said "Nvidia Control Panel gpu acceleration to multi-monitor" I though I had to enable something to make it work correctly other than just extending the displys.

I never really heard of that setting, I doubt it is necessary. Don't have a Nvidia card myself so I can't check.

I have search around a bit on the internet now and apparently it may increase performance in OpenGL games? I suppose it is better if you turn that setting to multi-monitors, but your monitors should work correctly.
 

Acheteedo

Member
Question: why blender? With other programs(maya, 3ds max,) there are ways to offset your rendering processes to your gpu, depending on what renderer your using.

I'm just not a fan of blender.

It's free, it's the one I've learned to use, it gets the job done. Maya and 3ds Max are very expensive, the sort of thing I would only consider way down the line once I fully get to grips with what Blender has to offer.
 

G.Newell

Member
So just wait. Oh but when that comes out there will be something better soon after, so you should wait for that instead.. But then again, something better will be coming out a year after that... You're probably not safe buying anything until at least 2020...

As i said he is getting the 970 but he just wanted to know as do i what the situation is with the new graphics cards coming early next year since there meant to be not a noraml incremental inrease. If it was a larger increase as the rumours suggested he would get the 970 now and change it later. We just wanted to know if there was any new information and apparantly theres not.
 

Acheteedo

Member
I don't mean to call you out or anything, but "not having the required knowledge" isn't a valid excuse for not building yourself. I knew nothing about building pc's before I built mine, but there are so many guides and tutorials on the internet now, it's very easy.

If you don't have the time to do it or would rather pay a professional, then I guess that's fine. But really all you need to do is watch one of the tutorial videos in post #2 in this thread and you'll have enough knowledge to build one.

A few reasons, first my assumption is that the builds you can customise and buy on websites such as dinopc will ensure that everything works together - it has enough ports, hefty enough PSU, the case will have adequate ventilation etc. Also my friend warned against trying to thermal paste the CPU to the motherboard myself (is that even always necessary? I don't know). I would also like to get the warranty coverage you can get for a full PC, I guess you can also get 3-years cover for individual parts, but that would mean I absolutely need to identify the problem myself, which I don't feel qualified to do.

All that said, I'm not against the idea of tinkering with a PC, but I would prefer to do that gradually through upgrading individual pieces in an already built unit, rather than going in the deep end...
 

Soodanim

Member
PC's up and running. Took me hours, but fuck me was it worth it. And it booted first time! So glad. I can fit the boot time into a Snapchat video, which is mental coming from my old 8 year old 25GB 5400rpm HDD. Wish I hadn't bought an £8 keyboard though, the spring in the space bar is already annoying me as type this post.

This thing is silent. I haven't even got the R4's panels on yet, and I haven't tried any games but unless I'm running the squealy DVD drive (won't be unless I'm ripping games or CDs) I can barely hear it at all.

I wouldn't be surprised if I need to re-do the TIM, because I skipped over the part in the 212 EVO instructions where it says about the 4 final screws also having multiple possible positions. I already had my hand on the cooler keeping it in place by that point, so it slid what was probably at least .5cm in every direction. But I'm not looking for 4.6gHz OCs, just a modest ~4.2 will do me.

I already knew this, but Ninite is a god-like program. If only it included the CPU-Z type programs too. It'd be perfect.

I'd like to send a big thank you to anyone and everyone in this thread. Whether I've spoken to you directly or just read your posts, there is so much knowledge and advice readily given and this thread is the biggest reason I built a PC (outside of wanting silky smooth 60fps games).

I have a question about Steam and my games. Is it best to install everything on the SSD (256GB) and move to the 1TB HDD if and when I need to, or install to HDD and move the select few games to SSD? I imagine the answer will be to install to SSD by default, but it doesn't hurt to ask.
 

forrest

formerly nacire
Ok PC-GAF, today I'm finalizing an ITX build for my brother based on some recommendations from some of you, but before actually ordering anything I wanted to ask a few last questions and get a few last opinions/suggestions.

I'll post two options as I could go either way really.

Cooler Master Elite 130 Build
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($69.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($103.91 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($84.98 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.97 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 280 3GB DUAL-X Video Card ($193.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($81.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $756.78
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-24 12:00 EDT-0400


EVGA Hadron Air Build
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($69.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($103.91 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($84.98 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.97 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 280 3GB DUAL-X Video Card ($193.98 @ Newegg)
Case: EVGA Hadron Mini ITX Tower Case w/500W Power Supply ($139.99 @ Micro Center)
Optical Drive: EVGA 100-OD-S101-BR DVD/CD Writer ($46.18 @ Amazon)
Total: $748.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-24 12:13 EDT-0400

Overclocking
I like the price of the processor a lot and I know it's been suggested due to the overclocking potential the chip has. I don't have a lot of history overclocking and this pc will be used a couple of states away by my brother who at most will play Diablo 3 and various other games on it.

Should I dial in a slight OC and feel comfortable with it as I really want it to be as stable as possible and never need any tweaking? Essentially I want to build this and let him just use it and hopefully never have any issues. I'm a little apprehensive about OCing the build, but if it's worth it in the long run with these components, then I'll commit and take the time to learn and do it proper.

Cooling
I love the idea of the AIO closed loop cooler on the cooler master. If I do overclock with that build, is there anything to worry about? Will my brother be able to keep the unit in a closed cabinet and just have the front door open while gaming?

You'll also notice the omission of a cooler on the Hadron Air build. Does this build need a better than stock cooler? Only if I OC? Newegg didn't have a "low profile" filter when looking at aftermarket coolers so I wasn't sure which one would fit the Hadron Air. Any suggestions for a cooler should I choose this build? Also including a cooler on the build will push it past $750.

Pricing
$700 dollars was kind of the range I was shooting for and you can see I've overshot that budget by a bit and still don't have an OS for the build. I would really like to see any suggestions about bringing the price of the build down as much as possible without compromising too much power/performance. I know the graphics card is one component that would allow this, but I'm feeling shy about knocking down a notch from the R9 280. I also really don't want to give up the SSD as I know that will be one area he and his wife will notice right away about the performance of the pc.

Are there any areas or wiggle room that you guys could suggest to pull that final price down a bit? PSU on the cooler master build maybe? Maybe a cheaper optical drive for the Hadron Air? I really had a tough time finding internal slimline slot loading dvdrw drives aside from the one suggested by pcpartpicker, which is like $45.

Thanks a ton
Anyhow, thanks for taking the time to read this and double thanks if you take time to help and respond! It's truly appreciated!

*oh about the OS - I'm going to try and get some version of windows and someone posted a link to a subreddit or something with very affordable keys to digital versions of windows, does anyone have the link? or a suggestion of where to get a dirt cheap copy of windows?
 
It's free, it's the one I've learned to use, it gets the job done. Maya and 3ds Max are very expensive, the sort of thing I would only consider way down the line once I fully get to grips with what Blender has to offer.
I understand, i just feel bad that you have to throw in expensive hardware to make this thing render at the rate you want to. That build sounds like overkill. But that's me
 
newpc.png

my body is ready, all I'm waiting on are the Be Quiet! CPU cooler and case fans
 

Acheteedo

Member
I understand, i just feel bad that you have to throw in expensive hardware to make this thing render at the rate you want to. That build sounds like overkill. But that's me

Sure, I want to go overboard on a single GPU this time (while I have a good chunk of spare cash) so that I can double up in a few years by getting the same card again to give a solid performance boost, but the second one by then should be at a good price.
 

appaws

Banned
Ok PC-GAF, today I'm finalizing an ITX build for my brother .........

............. drives aside from the one suggested by pcpartpicker, which is like $45.

Thanks a ton
Anyhow, thanks for taking the time to read this and double thanks if you take time to help and respond! It's truly appreciated!

*oh about the OS - I'm going to try and get some version of windows and someone posted a link to a subreddit or something with very affordable keys to digital versions of windows, does anyone have the link? or a suggestion of where to get a dirt cheap copy of windows?

OVERCLOCKING. Yes, you should be able to dial in a good but not super-aggressive OC and get it stable and just leave it. Myself as an example...I have my 3570k dialed in at 4.4ghz at nearly stock voltage and it has been that way for over 2 years now with no problems.

COOLING. You need CPU cooling just the same on the Hadron as you do on the other one. I am not sure what you mean by a "low-profile filter...?" I would suggest the same AIO as you have selected for the other build in the CM130.

SAVING $$$. You could go with a less expensive PSU....maybe find one that is semi-modular and somewhat lower wattage. 500 watts would be more than enough. You should stick with semi or fully modular though no matter what. Space is at a premium in a mini-itx build, so that will help minimize cable clutter. Also, do you have to get an optical drive at all...? I would just cut that and load your OS through USB.
 

forrest

formerly nacire
OVERCLOCKING. Yes, you should be able to dial in a good but not super-aggressive OC and get it stable and just leave it. Myself as an example...I have my 3570k dialed in at 4.4ghz at nearly stock voltage and it has been that way for over 2 years now with no problems.

COOLING. You need CPU cooling just the same on the Hadron as you do on the other one. I am not sure what you mean by a "low-profile filter...?" I would suggest the same AIO as you have selected for the other build in the CM130.

SAVING $$$. You could go with a less expensive PSU....maybe find one that is semi-modular and somewhat lower wattage. 500 watts would be more than enough. You should stick with semi or fully modular though no matter what. Space is at a premium in a mini-itx build, so that will help minimize cable clutter. Also, do you have to get an optical drive at all...? I would just cut that and load your OS through USB.

"low profile" filter - a check box on the side on new eggs site for filtering search results. In this example, low profile, just means smaller, maybe built for itx builds or smaller form factors in general. I didn't see one, so aside from actually looking at the size dimensions for each cooler, I didn't see a clear way to quickly search though the coolers based on size aside from fan mm sizes.

The optical drive is a must. My brother and his wife still use dvd's for music, photos, etc. And still buy retail disc based software. It is at the top of their list for items to be included with the build.
 
You don't say what display you're using (ROG Swift?), or the refresh rate you've set, or if you're using Vsync when trying to use ULMB mode. ULMB is just strobing of the monitor backlight.

It sounds like the games you're playing use double-buffering and you've enabled Vsync. If your display is set to 120Hz, then you need to maintain a strict 120fps for ULMB to work as intended. If you cannot maintain 120fps, then you need to set the display to 60Hz or 85Hz instead and enable ULMB.
Thought my last post was on the same page, but it wasn't. But yes, RoG Swift, vsync off and gsync disabled before starting the game. I mean with gsync on the game runs at 120 with no drops but switching to ulmb makes it so that it's 55-60. Turned vsync off in the menus and gsync is active when using that.
 
Skylake already looks like it will be confusing. There's going to be Skylake-S, the locked version which will be available towards the end of 2015, and Skylake-K, the unlocked variant which will likely release later. In addition to this, Skylake will support both DDR3 and DDR4, meaning there will be separate motherboards for each.
 

jrush64

Banned
Hey guys, so this is my final configuration. I'm about to pay for everything. I just need to know, Am I missing anything else except a cooler.

-How do I choose a cooler that would work with this case?
-Do I need to get any tools or extra cables or something? I'm shipping this stuff to another country so I'll rather get everything I need.

-ASUS Z97-A ATX DDR3 2600 LGA 1150 Motherboards Z97-A
-Intel Core i5-4690K Processor 3.5 GHz LGA 1150 BX80646I54690K
-WD Green 2 TB Desktop Hard Drive: 3.5 Inch, SATA III, 64 MB Cache - WD20EZRX
-Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory
(CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10)
-Corsair CX Series 600 Watt ATX/EPS Modular 80 PLUS Bronze ATX12V/EPS12V 552 Power Supply CX600M
-Crucial MX100 256GB SATA 2.5" 7mm (with 9.5mm adapter) Internal Solid State Drive CT256MX100SSD1
-EVGA EVGA GTX 970 ACX 1.0 Superclocked 4GB GDDR5 256bit, DVI-I, DVI-D, HDMI, DP SLI Ready Graphics Card
-BitFenix Mini-ITX Tower Case Without Power Supply, Red
 
Someone make me feel better. I bought a i7-4770K CPU earlier this year, but with the release of the i7-4790K I feel like I made a dumb move. Should I sell it to get the upgraded CPU or is the pain really worth it? I just want 60 fps on my games is all.
 

knitoe

Member
Hey guys, so this is my final configuration. I'm about to pay for everything. I just need to know, Am I missing anything else except a cooler.

-How do I choose a cooler that would work with this case?
-Do I need to get any tools or extra cables or something? I'm shipping this stuff to another country so I'll rather get everything I need.

-ASUS Z97-A ATX DDR3 2600 LGA 1150 Motherboards Z97-A
-Intel Core i5-4690K Processor 3.5 GHz LGA 1150 BX80646I54690K
-WD Green 2 TB Desktop Hard Drive: 3.5 Inch, SATA III, 64 MB Cache - WD20EZRX
-Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory
(CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10)
-Corsair CX Series 600 Watt ATX/EPS Modular 80 PLUS Bronze ATX12V/EPS12V 552 Power Supply CX600M
-Crucial MX100 256GB SATA 2.5" 7mm (with 9.5mm adapter) Internal Solid State Drive CT256MX100SSD1
-EVGA EVGA GTX 970 ACX 1.0 Superclocked 4GB GDDR5 256bit, DVI-I, DVI-D, HDMI, DP SLI Ready Graphics Card
-BitFenix Mini-ITX Tower Case Without Power Supply, Red
No to WD Green HDD. Get any other HDD.

You are have a ATX MB, but ITX case. That won't work. Either ATX MB and ATX case or vice versa.

Depending on your case choice will be what type of cpu cooler will fit.
 

jrush64

Banned
No to WD Green HDD. Get any other HDD.

You are have a ATX MB, but ITX case. That won't work. Either ATX MB and ATX case or vice versa.

Depending on your case choice will be what type of cpu cooler will fit.

Alright thanx. What about this case:

-BitFenix No Power Supply MicroATX Tower Case BFC-PRM-300-KKXSK-RP

Also is a seagate HDD good then?
 
Someone make me feel better. I bought a i7-4770K CPU earlier this year, but with the release of the i7-4790K I feel like I made a dumb move. Should I sell it to get the upgraded CPU or is the pain really worth it? I just want 60 fps on my games is all.

Dude the 4790 is only a teeny bit faster. You still have a top-end CPU. If you want to 'upgrade' just overclock your 4770 slightly.
 

knitoe

Member
Alright thanx. What about this case:

-BitFenix No Power Supply MicroATX Tower Case BFC-PRM-300-KKXSK-RP

Also is a seagate HDD good then?

With MicroATX case, you need to select a MicroATX MB.

And, Seagate HDD is fine. Find which ever is cheaper, except no to WD Green.
 
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