Haha, nothx. I have all these blocks and like 20' of EK ZMT and fittings.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
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I keep having nightmares of it all failing.
CreepingFear
Member
I guess my new monitor is Nvidia 3d vision ready. Is it worth it to buy the glasses for $125?
MisterNoisy
Member
No return to Green!?!?!? Gonna divorce Gigabyte for this.
As much as I liked their previous color choices (green/orange), that's a pretty motherboard. The color scheme reminds me of the VF-1A from Macross for some reason.
Windom Earle
Member
Ok GAF, what is the ultimate GPU OC stability test? Got the very rare crash on W3 and would like to verify if it is the game or my card.
Quote
Member
So when switching from the idea of going mITX to mATX, I didn't really look at cases as much and picked up the Corsair 240 Air, because I guess I forgot about the Fractal Node 804. Well, I ordered the 804 too (same price at the time). We shall see who is the winner!
I can already tell you that with the Corsair (since it's already here) that while I love it internally, and even the external form, I'm not a fan of the finish on the plastic at all.
I can already tell you that with the Corsair (since it's already here) that while I love it internally, and even the external form, I'm not a fan of the finish on the plastic at all.
Furmark/firestrike/heaven.
So I'm just wondering if anyone can shed light on Intel's current part-naming conventions.
Looking at the various Iris Pro 6200 processors here: http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2015...ore-broadwell-cpus-and-the-iris-pro-6200-gpu/
...I'll be damned if I can understand the difference between the C-series and R-series processor (the i5-5675R vs. the i5-5675C). Can anyone enlighten me?
As always with a Windows PC, I'm mainly just kicking tires, but I'm kind of intrigued by what the Iris 6200 has to offer -- namely that I should be able to get solid performance for a bunch of stuff in my Steam library (old stuff like Company of Heroes, etc.) and probably passable performance for even some recent stuff.
I know this path may be heresy to serious PC gamers, but the theory is I'll update to a newer discrete card, when budget permits and technology suggests it's time.
I guess my biggest concern is that I'm reluctant to buy what appears to be one of the last LGA1150 processors.
Looking at the various Iris Pro 6200 processors here: http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2015...ore-broadwell-cpus-and-the-iris-pro-6200-gpu/
...I'll be damned if I can understand the difference between the C-series and R-series processor (the i5-5675R vs. the i5-5675C). Can anyone enlighten me?
As always with a Windows PC, I'm mainly just kicking tires, but I'm kind of intrigued by what the Iris 6200 has to offer -- namely that I should be able to get solid performance for a bunch of stuff in my Steam library (old stuff like Company of Heroes, etc.) and probably passable performance for even some recent stuff.
I know this path may be heresy to serious PC gamers, but the theory is I'll update to a newer discrete card, when budget permits and technology suggests it's time.
I guess my biggest concern is that I'm reluctant to buy what appears to be one of the last LGA1150 processors.
My HTPC that's been chugging along the last +3years finally died on me last night, so looking at what parts I can salvage and at the same time upgrade - the mobo is DEAD sadly...
The components which I reckon are still working are:
I've got the following spare parts kicking around that I would be keen to use, but obviously would require a small ATX formfactor case which I dont have...
Anyway, looking for suggestions - I'm based on Australia so that likely doesnt help what parts are available. The HTPC is used primarily for streaming/connecting to home network/watching movies/tv + i do use it as a gaming pc on the big screen so need to have that option (high def).
I was looking at the Asus Maximus VII Mini ITX mobo aswell as the Asus Strix 960 Mini graphics card; but very quickly that pushes the price up to $700...like I said open to options.
Ideally if I upgrade this for AUD$500 ish then thats my best result.
Thoughts?
The components which I reckon are still working are:
- Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX DTX Case USB3.0
- Silverstone Strider Plus 600W ST60F-P
- G.Skill Ares F3-1600C9D-8GAO 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3
I've got the following spare parts kicking around that I would be keen to use, but obviously would require a small ATX formfactor case which I dont have...
- ASRock Z87 Extreme4 Motherboard
- Intel Core i5 4670
- Galaxy GeForce GTX 760 2GB
Anyway, looking for suggestions - I'm based on Australia so that likely doesnt help what parts are available. The HTPC is used primarily for streaming/connecting to home network/watching movies/tv + i do use it as a gaming pc on the big screen so need to have that option (high def).
I was looking at the Asus Maximus VII Mini ITX mobo aswell as the Asus Strix 960 Mini graphics card; but very quickly that pushes the price up to $700...like I said open to options.
Ideally if I upgrade this for AUD$500 ish then thats my best result.
Thoughts?
zeroeffect
Member
So I'd like GAF's opinion on this. I have an RMA GTX 980 ACX 2.0 on the way back from EVGA right now. I've had the pleasure of reading their forums and they have PLETHORA of issues that are exactly what happened to me. A lot of people on there are getting TDR errors with black screens while playing games. Most of the threads I've been through they've done everything on their end check ram, update BIOS, check PCI-E slots, ram slots, check PSU, etc. What's interesting is a lot say when they underclock GPU the crashes go away so that points to a bad GPU right? Could it possibly be anything else?
I had the exact same thing happen where I was getting TDR errors/display driver crashes and I did clean install, checked ram, checked PSU voltages, overheating, etc. etc. and when I downclocked my crashes magically disappeared too. When I'd go back to factory OC settings it would crash again. I put a different GPU into my system and never saw a crash. Some even say these same things on their forums and they also say they're getting multiple 980 RMAs from EVGA because they keep turning out faulty. EVGA insists it's on their end.
My question is what could possibly be the problem on your end if a GPU is giving you those display crashes and then it goes 100% stable from and underclock? That's a direct sign of an unstable GPU right? Could it be anything else? I don't see how it could be RAM related because it would do it even if you underclocked. Same with PSU voltage issues or any number of other hardware problems? I checked for those problems before I sent it off just in case though.
EVGA is pissing me off. If they send me another faulty GPU I'm going to punch a wall. What's GAF's opinion on this? I also reading on NVIDIA forums the new drivers are giving major TDR errors in Chrome+desktop and NVIDIA has zero clue what's causing it. They're asking people to bring their PCs in to their lab.
I had the exact same thing happen where I was getting TDR errors/display driver crashes and I did clean install, checked ram, checked PSU voltages, overheating, etc. etc. and when I downclocked my crashes magically disappeared too. When I'd go back to factory OC settings it would crash again. I put a different GPU into my system and never saw a crash. Some even say these same things on their forums and they also say they're getting multiple 980 RMAs from EVGA because they keep turning out faulty. EVGA insists it's on their end.
My question is what could possibly be the problem on your end if a GPU is giving you those display crashes and then it goes 100% stable from and underclock? That's a direct sign of an unstable GPU right? Could it be anything else? I don't see how it could be RAM related because it would do it even if you underclocked. Same with PSU voltage issues or any number of other hardware problems? I checked for those problems before I sent it off just in case though.
EVGA is pissing me off. If they send me another faulty GPU I'm going to punch a wall. What's GAF's opinion on this? I also reading on NVIDIA forums the new drivers are giving major TDR errors in Chrome+desktop and NVIDIA has zero clue what's causing it. They're asking people to bring their PCs in to their lab.
The article you linked to says the R series processors "are BGA CPUs that will be soldered directly to the motherboard" and cannot be removed or upgraded. BGA means ball grid array and is a method of soldering parts onto a circuit board.
The R type processors are likely going to be used in ultra small form factor mini PCs that will offer high performance in a tiny package.
Performance-wise there's nothing wrong with buying into socket 1150, Skylake seems to be just the usual small increase in performance. It's just that in the future when you're considering upgrading again or going for a new build, you won't be able to reuse your CPU/RAM/motherboard and you'll need to get all new parts for those. If you wait for Skylake, then you'll be able to reuse the Z170 motherboard and DDR4 RAM with whatever future upgrades and builds you'll be doing, but I would imagine Z170 and DDR4 comes with a small price premium over existing socket 1150 motherboards and DDR3.
Is that the i5 4670 or the i5 4670K? In either case, if you're not planning to do any overclocking, you could find a cheaper mITX H81 or B85 motherboard to use in your build with the i5 processor. No need to go overboard with the expensive gamer-oriented motherboards. Then you could reuse the Fractal case.
If you don't mind the larger size, the cheapest option would be to buy an ATX size case and throw all the parts in.
Reusing your GTX 760 is an option.. I think the GTX 960 is only a slight performance improvement over the GTX 760 but does offer lower heat, noise, and power use.
Anyone know what fans these are? I want that sleeving
Yeah, those are the EK fans meant to be pseudo-GT replacements.
Okay, so what do people think of this for a decent gaming PC for my GF's dad?
The actual total comes to about $730, and we can probably sell the Arkham Knight code for around $20, so $710 in the end, excluding potential rebates.
I was trying to keep the price of the PC itself below $600, excluding the monitor, so I really can't go any higher than this.
He needs the new monitor because he's currently using a CRT that can't hook up to the video card without a converter, and I need to keep the DVD drive in, or he'll be sad.
I'd like to get an SSD, but I feel like I'd need at least a 250gb (which would be in the $80 range), and I doubt he really cares or would notice the difference that much, so I'm going for the $50 regular 1TB drive.
Anyway, it's only my second time building a PC, so I just thought I'd ask and also see if there were any glaring compatibility issues. Thanks for any help/suggestions!
The actual total comes to about $730, and we can probably sell the Arkham Knight code for around $20, so $710 in the end, excluding potential rebates.
I was trying to keep the price of the PC itself below $600, excluding the monitor, so I really can't go any higher than this.
He needs the new monitor because he's currently using a CRT that can't hook up to the video card without a converter, and I need to keep the DVD drive in, or he'll be sad.
I'd like to get an SSD, but I feel like I'd need at least a 250gb (which would be in the $80 range), and I doubt he really cares or would notice the difference that much, so I'm going for the $50 regular 1TB drive.
Anyway, it's only my second time building a PC, so I just thought I'd ask and also see if there were any glaring compatibility issues. Thanks for any help/suggestions!
its the i5 4670 (not overclock).
I think my best option is to find a flat (horizontal) case that takes ATX and I simply shove all the existing components into that - any recommendations? Reason being i have a gap of around 300-350mm height under my tv that I use...so would rather keep that setup.
Soyongdori
Member
Question: I recently upgraded my GPU, but whenever I play any games, it makes this buzzing noise from speakers/headphones. But the weird thing is, the buzzing noise disspears when I do anything else on the computer, like watching movie, listening to music or anything. It only makes that sound whenever I play games.
lem0n
Member
My girlfriend and I built a rig very similar to this one, and it's been great! She's been able to play everything she's wanted to, including Dragon Age Inquisition at pretty high settings. I don't honestly know enough about the specifics to recommend one MoBo or PSU over an other, but, like I said, looks solid. I will leave the specifics to RGM79 or mkenyon.
Oh, only thing I would recommend, even though we haven't noticed any bottlenecking on ours, is to go with an i5 processor, but I see you're already 100 over budget so i3 will have to do. I'm just thinking in the future you may need to upgrade..
Take a look here, anything ring a bell?
http://www.head-fi.org/t/595094/help-extremely-loud-buzzing-from-speakers-when-gpu-is-active
adamantypants
Member
Cross posting from B/S/T, selling my 780 ti for $240. Cheap for my GAF homies. Offloading in prep of my 980 ti coming in tomorrow 
EK makes fans now? Thanks
lol... dammit, I skimmed through a bunch of stuff today, and saw a mention of that and forgot where it was. The Ars Technica piece was my starting point, so I guess rummaging through and searching for other stuff made me think it was elsewhere.
Thanks for the insight on 1150 vs. Z170. I guess that's a good point. I doubt I'm going to be on the bleeding edge any time soon (and it seems like it'll be a while before an i5 is insufficient for gaming).
You could use any ATX case that lays flat well, but if you want something nicer looking, Silverstone makes horizontal HTPC cases that you could look at, namely the Grandia and Lascala product lines. Here's what PCPartPicker has listed in terms of prices for Silverstone HTPC cases, but keep in mind you may be able to find better prices yourself, their Australian price database isn't exactly all-encompassing.
It's not coil whine, is it? I have no idea.
Yeah, I think I can knock down the prices. You prefer to order from Amazon and Newegg only? Here's my version of your build, also limited to Amazon and Newegg:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4430 3.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($178.20 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-GAMING 3 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($46.49 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($47.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: PNY GeForce GTX 960 2GB XLR8 Elite OC Video Card ($189.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($36.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/RSBS DVD/CD Writer ($12.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Acer G247HL bid 60Hz 24.0" Monitor ($120.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $721.61
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-06-04 00:56 EDT-0400
1. I was able to go with a stronger i5 processor by saving money on the motherboard. The B85 motherboard chipset lacks features compared to H97 but should be enough for your GF's dad's needs.
2. The 1x8GB of RAM leaves one empty slot for you to add a second stick of RAM in the future if needed. It also happens to be cheaper than the kit of 2x4GB you were looking at.
3. That PNY GTX 960 seems decent going by the specs. It has a clock speed of 1.3GHz and is $10 cheaper than the EVGA model you had in the list. It doesn't have the zero fan speed mode that the EVGA offers, but the lower price is more important when it comes to your budget.
4. I recommend the cheaper Corsair 600 watt non-modular model instead of the 430 watt modular version. You will find the extra wattage more useful than the modular cabling, it'll be a bit messier and you'll need to do some proper cable management, but the extra wattage means the PC won't be limited when it comes to future upgrades (new graphics card, etc). The 600 watt model is also cheaper.
5. The Samsung DVD drive is cheaper.
6. I'm not sure if you had your mind set on the other monitor, but I found another Acer monitor that's larger (24" vs 21.5") for about the same price.
This build is cheaper and should be faster than the original build for gaming because of the i5 processor. The only spot where it could be said I cheaped out would be the B85 motherboard. I don't really see a need for H97 though, the B85 model will not bottleneck the i5 and GTX 960's performance and you didn't say you needed any of the H97 specific features (M.2 support and more SATA 6Gbps ports). Anyway, the tower itself totals about $601 and the monitor is $121, bringing it up to about $722.
You're right about the SSD, I wouldn't consider including one either on a $600 budget, unless he doesn't need that much storage space. What about his old PC, though? Are there any parts he could reuse from it? If he could reuse the old PC's hard drives, then maybe we could switch out the 1TB hard drive for a 128GB SSD. The OS and some programs (and maybe a few games, depending on the size of the games) would go on the SSD and everything else would go on the hard drives.
Soyongdori
Member
It probably is, but does the coil whine noise also play though speaker?
I have no idea about how coil whine works exactly, but a cursory search seems to show that a lot of other people are claiming they can hear coil whine through speakers.
Maybe this is relevant? Supposedly the motherboard's audio chipset can pick up interference from nearby devices like graphics cards.
Thanks for the help! I'm also trying to avoid relying too much on rebates, so things like that PSU may not be tempting (and I would like the semi-modular one, for the smaller case). I also think I'd rather stick with EVGA for the GPU, and the reason I had that particular monitor selected was because it was the cheapest highly rated IPS monitor I could find. I'm trying to go with an IPS because he's very used to the color reproduction and viewing angles of CRTs.
Regarding the HDDs he currently has.. those things are potentially pretty ancient. I wouldn't trust them for much longer so I'm happy to just get him a big new disk to put crap on.
I'll definitely check out saving some money with that mobo and the ram, though. Unfortunately, that doesn't put me low enough to replace the i3 with the i5, but I think it'll handle fine, and I'm sure he won't mind just getting it for a bit cheaper than I originally projected.
Thanks again for the advice!
I have the same issue. It's an EMI problem. I'm missing one stand off on my mobo so I'm assuming it's that. I'm getting my new card and gonna put one in. I hope to god it fixes it. It did not have this issue with my old mobo.
Soyongdori
Member
So is it the mobo's problem or the gpu? Because I can hear the coil whine from my pc, but the sound isn't all that loud and doesn't bothers me as much, but the stupid coil whine sound that plays through my headphone whenever I play games is bugging the hell out of me.
Hey so I recently upgraded my PC to a motherboard that actually has sata 3 and my SSD write speeds seem a bit slow, is there anything that could cause this? I've tried pretty much everything I can think of, different Intel RST drivers, all the different sata ports on my motherboard, disabling/enabling write caching etc
It's a Samsung 830 128GB on a Z97X-UD5H
Any help would be appreciated.
It's a Samsung 830 128GB on a Z97X-UD5H
Any help would be appreciated.
Motherboard SATA set to AHCI mode in BIOS settings?Hey so I recently upgraded my PC to a motherboard that actually has sata 3 and my SSD write speeds seem a bit slow, is there anything that could cause this? I've tried pretty much everything I can think of, different Intel RST drivers, all the different sata ports on my motherboard, disabling/enabling write caching etc
It's a Samsung 830 128GB on a Z97X-UD5H
Any help would be appreciated.
Yep, I also run Samsung Magician and everything was reported fine.
EDIT: my write speeds were actually faster on my old P55 sata 2 motherboard, haha
http://i.imgur.com/SnUBL3T.png
It's coil whine from the gpu, but the sound coming from speakers/headphones is EMI from the coil whine. My missing standoff is right where the gpu is so I'm hoping it fixes it. Coil whine with high fps (like 2000+) is pretty normal sadly. I've had 3-4 cards that all did it.
I know how you feel.
SmokedMeat
Gamer™
I was wondering if anyone could help me with a question?
I'm a first timer starting the process of building a PC, and have ordered a NZXT Source 210 case, which seems to be a well reviewed case for a budget build.
My issue is that on PC Parts Picker I'm getting a message that the motherboard I picked has an onboard USB 3.0 header, but my case does not have front panel USB 3.0 ports.
Does this mean that the USB ports on the front of the case are 2.0? Will I still be able to hook them up for use, or are they not compatible?
I'm a first timer starting the process of building a PC, and have ordered a NZXT Source 210 case, which seems to be a well reviewed case for a budget build.
My issue is that on PC Parts Picker I'm getting a message that the motherboard I picked has an onboard USB 3.0 header, but my case does not have front panel USB 3.0 ports.
Does this mean that the USB ports on the front of the case are 2.0? Will I still be able to hook them up for use, or are they not compatible?
USB 3.0 is backwards compatible with USB 2.0 devices.
If you hook up your case to the USB 3.0 slots you will be able to plug in USB 2.0 and 3.0 devices but 3.0 devices will not work at full 3.0 speed.
Google forcetrim.exe and run that.
Speeds dont look that bad to me, 4K read is a little low, i would expect about 25MB/s.
I would also uninstall the Intel SATA drivers and use the default Microsoft drivers. You can do that in device manager, just uninstall the SATA driver.
Its all compatible, just its telling you that you are not making use of a Front Panel USB 3 connector that the motherboard has, its asking you to maximise your purchase by choosing a case with USB 3.0 front panel. The motherboard will have USB 2.0 front panel connectors as well as USB 3.0, so its fully compatible.
Ran forcetrim and still had the same results. I'll try the default drivers now.
I should be getting around 300-400MB/s write speeds with this drive from what I've seen elsewhere.
EDIT: Default drivers have slightly better performance but not by much.
SmokedMeat
Gamer™
In terms of gaming does it matter? I'm trying to think of what I might use the USB ports for. Worth canceling my case order over?
velociraptor
Junior Member
Is it going to be early 2016 or late 2016?
Latest SSD Firmware installed?
Remember, the larger SSD sizes perform better than the smaller SSD sizes of the same model. That might explain the differences you see in benches. Although i think you are right, it should be around the low 300MB/s.
For gaming doesn't matter at all. USB 3.0 is useful for external hard drives as it has a better data transfer rate. For mice / keyboards there is no difference.
You still have USB 3.0 accessible at the back if you eventually need it for something, up to you if you want to cancel.
Garrett Hawke
Member
Bleh. So I was planning on upgrading my RAM and it turns out that my motherboard only supports up to DDR2 (what lmao) so I'm looking for a new, cheap-ish motherboard. I'd like to keep everything else for now. I already ordered the RAM as well, I thought it would be DDR3 compatible.
These are my specs:
UK btw. If I change motherboard, what else do I have to change (power supply, etc)? Sorry and thanks for all the help, I'm really new to this.
These are my specs:
- AMD Athlon II X3 425
- GeForce GTS 250 1GB
- 3GB DDR2 RAM (currently, ordered 8GB DDR3)
UK btw. If I change motherboard, what else do I have to change (power supply, etc)? Sorry and thanks for all the help, I'm really new to this.
Try turning the volume down on the monitor/speakers and increasing it in Windows. I had the exact same issue 2 months ago, and this fixed it for me.
I still don't know what the reason for it is but it seems to be tied to framerate/on screen movement.
30fps was noticeable but playing cs at 120fps made it so much worse
BronzeWolf
Banned
Can I post a hardware issue question related to my Laptop here?
Bleh. So I was planning on upgrading my RAM and it turns out that my motherboard only supports up to DDR2 (what lmao) so I'm looking for a new, cheap-ish motherboard. I'd like to keep everything else for now. I already ordered the RAM as well, I thought it would be DDR3 compatible.
These are my specs:
- AMD Athlon II X3 425
- GeForce GTS 250 1GB
- 3GB DDR2 RAM (currently, ordered 8GB DDR3)
UK btw. If I change motherboard, what else do I have to change (power supply, etc)? Sorry and thanks for all the help, I'm really new to this.
You will have to make sure the motherboard you get is compatible with your current processor. Other then that motherboards have standardised inputs so you'll be fine in terms of RAM, power supply, etc.
I would recommend upgrading your processor along with your motherboard though.
Garrett Hawke
Member
Thanks!
it's mostly just for older games (2011 backwards) and for Unreal and Maya for uni work, so the processor doesn't seem to be too much of an issue at the moment. But if it does become one I'll check some out Thanks!
No problem!
I only recommend upgrading CPU now as you'll have to buy another new motherboard when you eventually decide to get a new CPU.
Hey guys I was wondering what you thought about buying used GPU's off sites like kijiji? I found a gtx 970 in my area for much less than it would cost in a store. I was thinking about waiting for the AMD cards, but this seems like a deal I can't pass up. I mean even if the card is faulty, as long as the seller has the receipt I would be able to RMA it right? I'm in Canada if that changes anything.
Amazon has the Corsair H105 (liquid cooler) for $99 right now.
SSD Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 2.5-Inch SATA III still at $177 for anyone looking to upgrade. The 250GB variant is just a couple bucks over $100
I just started running out of space on my 120GB SSD so I had bought that 500. Recently bought the Corsair H105 as well, mostly out of desire cleaning up the interior. Still have to get the 980TI along with a new mobo and CPU. Waiting until Win10 drops though.
Just purchasing as I see prices drop.
SSD Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 2.5-Inch SATA III still at $177 for anyone looking to upgrade. The 250GB variant is just a couple bucks over $100
I just started running out of space on my 120GB SSD so I had bought that 500. Recently bought the Corsair H105 as well, mostly out of desire cleaning up the interior. Still have to get the 980TI along with a new mobo and CPU. Waiting until Win10 drops though.
Just purchasing as I see prices drop.
I don't know how noisy that AMD card is vs the bloody jet engine of a 7950 I had before, but my MSI twin frozr 970 is lovely and quiet.
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