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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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Looks pretty good.

Swap the AS5 for Noctua or PK-1, PK-3, MX-2, MX-4, Shin-Etsu (Is this still good?), etc. on newegg. AS5's legacy needs to end.
And swap RAM for regular sized heatspreaders and 1866MHz so they don't block your CPU fan. Or 2133 too.
If you feel like you'll keep the system a while or upgrade to a much higher end GPU then putting in a 600B for $10 more is also fine.

Appreciate the feedback! I'm sure this build will last him a looong time, so I upped to the 600B, just in case.
 

Liquid_015

Gold Member
Checking the specifications for GTX 460, GTX 960, and GTX 970 the listed graphics card power are 160 W, 120 W, and 145 W, respectively. For the 970 a 500 W PSU is recommended. So if your PSU has held up so far, you should be OK.
I did a rough power calculation for your system using http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp and get <400 W even with the 970; I may be missing something though.



People here usually advise against the Corsair CX range. Check some of the builds in the OP for PSUs if you decide to upgrade.

Ah I see. So technically I don't really need to upgrade my PSU. Though would you recommend upgrading to a 600w to be safe? So far, everyone here is telling me that I don't really need to do anything to my current 500w PSU. I also have a few LED fans hooked up, not sure if that will change the wattage calculations. You do have a point, if my current 460 draws 160w and the 970 draws 145w then I should be fine?

For the PSU: EVGA 600B
 

kennah

Member
I already have a 5930k
I have a i7-5930K 6 core CPU for $450 shipped.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MMLXMM8/?tag=neogaf0e-20

What's the appeal of Xeon processors compared to what I have?
I'm not looking to buy a cpu. Already have one, wanting non Ecc ram in 16 gig sticks because I'm going to be using a dual channel x99 board

And honestly after the macbook thing I don't trust you.
 

xptoxyz

Member
Cross-posting to see if I can get any ideas, less people seem to pass by the other thread than here, hope it's not frowned upon.

Looking for help finding out what's breaking, can't debug it easily... I formated and the issue is still present so it should be hardware. Problem shows up as hard lock, only way to resolve it shutdown via is power button. Display keeps the same frame stuck. Have been able to play a game for hours without the issue cropping up, yet simple browsing tasks have made the issue happen in fast succession.

CrystalDiskInfo is saying disk is ok, not sure how reliable it is.

Should add this is a laptop, so other than HDD and Ram it probably won't be worth fixing in terms of cost. Would still like to find where the issue is coming from.

Worth doing a memory test? I've been manage to play games without any crash for few hours, no artifacts, etc.. So that kinda makes me rule out the GPU vs going through benchmarks.

Really would like to get a better diagnostic before "binning" the laptop.
 

NawtKool

Neo Member
Hello PC Gafers!

I have a friend who is building a pc, and he really wants a 970. But we're both trying to find out which model or manufacturer is the most reliable choice. I was hoping someone here could help us out.
 

Redx508

Member
GAF
is my HD7870 gone?

was playing FFXIV than my whole screen turned gray and windows locked up I reboot bios comes up after the windows logo all i get is a black screen and pc locks up. I boot to safe mode remove the amd drivers with DDU and i can get back into windows but as soon as i install the amd drivers i get a black screen and pc locks up

tried the gpu on a different pc and i get the same thing
tried different drivers same thing
 

NeOak

Member

He uses a, ironically, mini-ITX X99 Mobo with the 5930K. That is why he wants the 16GB sticks.

I already have a 5930k

I'm not looking to buy a cpu. Already have one, wanting non Ecc ram in 16 gig sticks because I'm going to be using a dual channel x99 board

And honestly after the macbook thing I don't trust you.

lol Kennah, people hawking their wares to you.
 

kennah

Member
OMG. Pump and second radiator arrived.

I finally have all the water cooling parts to complete my build.

Tempted to do a test run on my i3, but will just leak test for now to get ready for final install in Aug or Sept.
 

luiztfc

Member
I purchased 3x Noctuas NF-S12A FLX to install in the front of my Corsair 540. Now I read that this might not be the best choice, since these fans are designed for airflow and the front filter might block some air. Am I doomed?
 
i need help. i am just building a pc for my relative who is in another country and someone will be doing the assembly. here are the specs that i suggested.


intel i5-4460
320gb hdd 5400 rpm
4gb ddr3-ram 1333 mhz
standard motherboard with lga 1150
300-watt psu bronze-certified
case
1080p 60hz led monitor
usb keyboard and mouse
windows 8.1

the person who's going to do the assembly said the parts are not compatible and it will be hard to find components that are compatible with win8.1.

i'm sitting here thinking, "what?" as the parts i suggested are standard fare and it's the first time i am hearing of hardware incompatibility with win8.1 with such standard hardware.

looking for advice in here.
 

Meatfist

Member
i need help. i am just building a pc for my relative who is in another country and someone will be doing the assembly. here are the specs that i suggested.


intel i5-4460
320gb hdd 5400 rpm
4gb ddr3-ram 1333 mhz
standard motherboard with lga 1150
300-watt psu bronze-certified
case
1080p 60hz led monitor
usb keyboard and mouse
windows 8.1

the person who's going to do the assembly said the parts are not compatible and it will be hard to find components that are compatible with win8.1.

i'm sitting here thinking, "what?" as the parts i suggested are standard fare and it's the first time i am hearing of hardware incompatibility with win8.1 with such standard hardware.

looking for advice in here.

Everything looks fine to me, I have no idea what the dude is even talking about and I dunno if I would trust him to assemble it for you if he thinks an i5 and 4GB RAM won't fly with Win8.1
 
Everything looks fine to me, I have no idea what the dude is even talking about and I dunno if I would trust him to assemble it for you if he thinks an i5 and 4GB RAM won't fly with Win8.1


dude said the parts are incompatible with each other.

again, pretty sure i looked into which socket type the cpu goes to and that cpu don't have memory controllers for ram slower than 1333 mhz.

again, i am very confused. i am also pretty sure the psu is enough at 300 watts.
 

The Llama

Member
http://www.samsung.com/us/video/tvs/UN19F4000AFXZA

So I just bought this TV to use as a second monitor for my PC. It was on clearance at sears for $100. Please tell me I did good.

Eh, it's all right. Its 1366x768 resolution. Just from checking on newegg real quick, you can get similar sized 1600x900 resolution monitors for about the same price. And for like $50 you can get a nice 1080p monitor. So I mean you didn't get ripped off or anything, but I wouldn't have bothered. But just IMO.
 
Just ordered a corsair K70 brown keyboard to replace my broken down microsoft gaming keyboard.

Should I have gone with something else?

I have the Corsair K70 with MX Blues and absolutely love it. Really solid build quality. I skipped the (apparently not great) software, but it works just fine as a keyboard without it.
 
Eh, it's all right. Its 1366x768 resolution. Just from checking on newegg real quick, you can get similar sized 1600x900 resolution monitors for about the same price. And for like $50 you can get a nice 1080p monitor. So I mean you didn't get ripped off or anything, but I wouldn't have bothered. But just IMO.

thign is I live in PR, and ordering from newegg shipping prices go way up for me. The only option I do have is going over to tigerdirect here in PR and buy it there.
 
I feel bad just staring at my parts in my room .... So much boxes and the 780t box is so big ;_; .. Almost time sweet prince... Just a little more parts and my ascension to master race will be complete
 

Liquid_015

Gold Member
I have the 1866mhz CL10 version of the HyperX Fury. Perfectly happy with it. The 1866 is actually a couple bucks cheaper:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J8E90I2/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Oh! I don't think my Mobo can accept it? I have a GA-870A-USB3 AM3+ (Rev 3.1)

The Kingston HyperX won't get in the way of a tall heatsink correct?

Memory Specifics from product page:

- 4 x 1.5V DDR3 DIMM sockets supporting up to 32 GB of system memory(Note 1)
- Dual channel memory architecture
- Support for DDR3 2000(O.C.)/1333/1066 MHz memory modules
 

finalflame

Member
Oh! I don't think my Mobo can accept it? I have a GA-870A-USB3 AM3+ (Rev 3.1)

The Kingston HyperX won't get in the way of a tall heatsink correct?

Memory Specifics from product page:

- 4 x 1.5V DDR3 DIMM sockets supporting up to 32 GB of system memory(Note 1)
- Dual channel memory architecture
- Support for DDR3 2000(O.C.)/1333/1066 MHz memory modules

Ah, well considering that it says it supports 2000mhz (O.C.), it should support 1866mhz.

However, the 1333mhz has lower timing (CL9), so unless you're looking to overclock, it could be the better choice. Overall, I am really happy with my RAM -- never had any stability issues related to it. I have had crappy RAM in the past, and it's a headache you don't want. The HyperX Fury has been great for me, don't think you can go wrong with it, whether you get the 1333mhz or 1866mhz sticks :)
 

Liquid_015

Gold Member
Ah, well considering that it says it supports 2000mhz (O.C.), it should support 1866mhz.

However, the 1333mhz has lower timing (CL9), so unless you're looking to overclock, it could be the better choice. Overall, I am really happy with my RAM -- never had any stability issues related to it. I have had crappy RAM in the past, and it's a headache you don't want. The HyperX Fury has been great for me, don't think you can go wrong with it, whether you get the 1333mhz or 1866mhz sticks :)

Ya, I thought the 2000mhz would imply that it would support higher Mhz sticks, but apparently the mobo will default higher Mhz RAM to 1333MHz. That's great news! As we discussed a few pages back, I've decided to stick with my current 500w PSU for the upgrade to a gtx 970. By the way, a 80 Plus Certified PSU made by OCZ (Mod Stream X) should be a decent quality PSU correct?
 

RGM79

Member
Ya, I thought the 2000mhz would imply that it would support higher Mhz sticks, but apparently the mobo will default higher Mhz RAM to 1333MHz. That's great news! As we discussed a few pages back, I've decided to stick with my current 500w PSU for the upgrade to a gtx 970. By the way, a 80 Plus Certified PSU made by OCZ (Mod Stream X) should be a decent quality PSU correct?

Yeah, OCZ power supplies were pretty good back in the day. Your model included.
 

Maiden Voyage

Gold™ Member
  • Current Specs: CPU: AMD A8-5500 / RAM: 16gb (2x8) / Motherboard: MSI MS-7778 / GPU: Sapphire 7870 ghz edition 2gb VRAM / PSU: Corsair CX 750w / Case: Antec 300 Illusion / HDD: 1TB SATA
  • Budget: $1000 USA, budget is very flexible but the less spent, the better.
  • Main Use: VR, Steam In-Home Streaming
  • Monitor Resolution: 1080p, 144hz. No upgrade in the foreseeable future.
  • List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I want VR games to run well. 60hz+ is the goal on my monitor. GTAV @ 60fps would be great.
  • Looking to reuse any parts?: I'm going to reuse my RAM, PSU, HDD. Might reuse gpu if it will work
  • When will you build?: Parts needed by the time the Vive is available.
  • Will you be overclocking?: No.

Basically, I am going to upgrade my case so I have usb 3.0 ports in the front (current case doesn't support) and my GPU to a MSI GTX970 Twin Frozr if I need to.

I may add a Crucial BX100 250gb SSD when Windows 10 launches.

I'm mostly curious how much money I should put into my motherboard and cpu. The parts I'm currently eyeing are i5-4690K and GA-Z97x-SLI ATX LGA1150.

I'm keeping tabs on the prices of these items through the PC Part Picker website. Since I have a few months to watch prices and research I'm not in a huge hurry. I'd like input while I'm watching prices.
 

Liquid_015

Gold Member
Yeah, OCZ power supplies were pretty good back in the day. Your model included.

YESH! Hehe, thanks for the help RGM! Time to hunt down that 970. I was thinking about the MSI GTX 970 4G. What do you think?

Also, do you think its worth spending the extra money for an SSD? I currently have a WD Caviar Blue 500gb @ 7200RPM. Sorry for being repetitive (just want to make sure), as of now there's no point in upgrading to a better PSU right now correct?

If so, I was thinking about the Crucial BX100 (as suggested in the OP) or the Samsung Evo 850. In addition, if I were to add the SSD would my current PSU be able to support it?
 
YESH! Hehe, thanks for the help RGM! Time to hunt down that 970. I was thinking about the MSI GTX 970 4G. What do you think?

Also, do you think its worth spending the extra money for an SSD? I currently have a WD Caviar Blue 500gb @ 7200RPM.

Have been eyeing that same card, it looks like a good one. Several other decent options as well though, especially if you're not interested in over clocking it, so if there's a sweet deal out there on something else consider that too.

SSD is really worth it, I think. Doesn't change gaming much aside from load times, but as a general performance improvement, it's quite noticeable. You can get a 250 gig drive for under $100 these days, if you're on the fence just stick with something like that. No real need to shell out more for the high end ones.
 

RGM79

Member
  • Current Specs: CPU: AMD A8-5500 / RAM: 16gb (2x8) / Motherboard: MSI MS-7778 / GPU: Sapphire 7870 ghz edition 2gb VRAM / PSU: Corsair CX 750w / Case: Antec 300 Illusion / HDD: 1TB SATA
  • Budget: $1000 USA, budget is very flexible but the less spent, the better.
  • Main Use: VR, Steam In-Home Streaming
  • Monitor Resolution: 1080p, 144hz. No upgrade in the foreseeable future.
  • List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I want VR games to run well. 60hz+ is the goal on my monitor. GTAV @ 60fps would be great.
  • Looking to reuse any parts?: I'm going to reuse my RAM, PSU, HDD. Might reuse gpu if it will work
  • When will you build?: Parts needed by the time the Vive is available.
  • Will you be overclocking?: No.

Basically, I am going to upgrade my case so I have usb 3.0 ports in the front (current case doesn't support) and my GPU to a MSI GTX970 Twin Frozr if I need to.

I may add a Crucial BX100 250gb SSD when Windows 10 launches.

I'm mostly curious how much money I should put into my motherboard and cpu. The parts I'm currently eyeing are i5-4690K and GA-Z97x-SLI ATX LGA1150.

I'm keeping tabs on the prices of these items through the PC Part Picker website. Since I have a few months to watch prices and research I'm not in a huge hurry. I'd like input while I'm watching prices.
Seems like you have a good plan.

Depending on how long you wait, by the time you are ready to buy, Intel's new Skylake processor and socket 1151 motherboards will have been announced or released. They're meant to supplant and eventually replace the current generation of Z97 stuff, so that might be something to look forward to. DDR4, USB 3.1, USB type C, etc.

The Crucial BX100 is a great SSD for the cost.

YESH! Hehe, thanks for the help RGM! Time to hunt down that 970. I was thinking about the MSI GTX 970 4G. What do you think?

Also, do you think its worth spending the extra money for an SSD? I currently have a WD Caviar Blue 500gb @ 7200RPM. Sorry for being repetitive (just want to make sure), as of now there's no point in upgrading to a better PSU right now correct?

If so, I was thinking about the Crucial BX100 (as suggested in the OP) or the Samsung Evo 850. In addition, if I were to add the SSD would my current PSU be able to support it?
Well there's nothing wrong with that MSI model, but there are other slightly cheaper and/or better models. The EVGA GTX 970 SSC edition is slightly cheaper after rebate and has slightly faster clock speeds. Otherwise if you want to save money, the MSI GTX 970 100 Million edition is basically the same card except with green and costs a little less after rebate.

SSDs are quite nice to have, but they don't necessarily improve gaming performance (framerate or quality settinga), just overall feel of how fast things load and respond. It's up to you if you want one, I'd say it's a good buy if you're willing to spend for it. SSDs use less power compared to hard drives and hard drives don't count for a lot of watts, so no real worries about power consumption there.

There was a power supply wattage calculator linked above by someone, give that a try if you're unsure.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
YESH! Hehe, thanks for the help RGM! Time to hunt down that 970. I was thinking about the MSI GTX 970 4G. What do you think?

Also, do you think its worth spending the extra money for an SSD? I currently have a WD Caviar Blue 500gb @ 7200RPM. Sorry for being repetitive (just want to make sure), as of now there's no point in upgrading to a better PSU right now correct?

If so, I was thinking about the Crucial BX100 (as suggested in the OP) or the Samsung Evo 850. In addition, if I were to add the SSD would my current PSU be able to support it?


SSD is a huge upgrade for general usability. Your PC will boot up faster and be more responsive. If you don't want to buy a big one, try to at least get a 120GB for windows and your most used apps. Then keep your HDD for games and other larger files.
 

Liquid_015

Gold Member
Well there's nothing wrong with that MSI model, but there are other slightly cheaper and/or better models. The EVGA GTX 970 SSC edition is slightly cheaper after rebate and has slightly faster clock speeds. Otherwise if you want to save money, the MSI GTX 970 100 Million edition is basically the same card except with green and costs a little less after rebate.

SSDs are quite nice to have, but they don't necessarily improve gaming performance (framerate or quality settinga), just overall feel of how fast things load and respond. It's up to you if you want one, I'd say it's a good buy if you're willing to spend for it. SSDs use less power compared to hard drives and hard drives don't count for a lot of watts, so no real worries about power consumption there.

There was a power supply wattage calculator linked above by someone, give that a try if you're unsure.

SSD is a huge upgrade for general usability. Your PC will boot up faster and be more responsive. If you don't want to buy a big one, try to at least get a 120GB for windows and your most used apps. Then keep your HDD for games and other larger files.

Ah, thats good to know. I will look into the SSDs going forward.

I will definitely look into the graphics card options! Thanks for the recommendations!

In regards to the power supply wattage calculator:

Based on my current default setup (using a GTX 460 SE):

Minimum: 355w
Maximum: 405w

Going forward with a GTX 970 on my current PSU:

Minimum: 367w
Maximum: 417w

Given these numbers, I wager that an upgrade to a higher wattage PSU is not required - as my current 500w would suffice?
 
Ah, thats good to know. I will look into the SSDs going forward.

I will definitely look into the graphics card options! Thanks for the recommendations!

In regards to the power supply wattage calculator:

Based on my current default setup (using a GTX 460 SE):

Minimum: 355w
Maximum: 405w

Going forward with a GTX 970 on my current PSU:

Minimum: 367w
Maximum: 417w

Given these numbers, I wager that an upgrade to a higher wattage PSU is not required - as my current 500w would suffice?


You should be fine with that PSU, which is still okay-ish. Keep in mind: atleast as far as I found it "only" gets up to 432W via the 12V rails, though.
If you'd like to make sure, just get yourself a cheap, but good device that reads what your PC draws from the wall socket.

Just btw. most of the websites, including reviews, measure what the PSU draws from the wall, not how much it delivers to the components that are in your case. The former number is the one that counts for your energy bill, the latter for what kind of PSU you need (-> your PSU can deliver up to 500W to your components, but can draw significantly more than that from the wall).
 

Liquid_015

Gold Member
You should be fine with that PSU, which is still okay-ish. Keep in mind: atleast as far as I found it "only" gets up to 432W via the 12V rails, though.
If you'd like to make sure, just get yourself a cheap, but good device that reads what your PC draws from the wall socket.

Just btw. most of the websites, including reviews, measure what the PSU draws from the wall, not how much it delivers to the components that are in your case. The former number is the one that counts for your energy bill, the latter for what kind of PSU you need (-> your PSU can deliver up to 500W to your components, but can draw significantly more than that from the wall).

Hmm.. I see. Slightly confused. In essence, the minimum number is the power drawn from the wall socket, while the max number would be the amount of power sent to the PC components?


If thats the case, what would be the best plan of action?
 

cluderi

Member
Gaming PC build is a month or so away but I'm looking for monitor recommendations. Anyone recommend an 27" widescreen monitor (16:9) for 1080p multiscreen setup, gaming is the main use so something low lag please.

Currently looking at something like the Asus VX279H or the Acer G276HLA ? Around £170 per monitor and in the UK. There seems to be quite a few available but I'm not 100% sure on quality. Should I only be looking at IPS panels or is my price point going to too low.
 
Hmm.. I see. Slightly confused. In essence, the minimum number is the power drawn from the wall socket, while the max number would be the amount of power sent to the PC components?


If thats the case, what would be the best plan of action?


The other around actually :) Sorry, maybe that was confusing, English isn't my first language.

Basically your PSU has a certain efficiency, say 90% at 100% load (that would be really good), which means 90% of the energy it draws from the wall will go to your components, while the other 10% will just be wasted by your PSU (i.e. it'll generate hot air). Simple example: at some point it draws 500W from the wall; at 90% efficiency 450W of those go to the components, while 50W will be hot air (wasted).

Maybe that's what confused you: Those 432W that I was talking about, that's what your own PSU can do on the 12V rails. It's rated for 500W and it can do these 500, but it can't do all of those 500W on the 12V rails, which is far the most important rail for every gaming PC (GPU, CPU get all there power through the 12V rail). But as I said, you'll be fine, maybe buy one of those kill o watt (?) things to see how much your PC draws from the wall, just to make sure.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Gaming PC build is a month or so away but I'm looking for monitor recommendations. Anyone recommend an 27" widescreen monitor (16:9) for 1080p multiscreen setup, gaming is the main use so something low lag please.

Currently looking at something like the Asus VX279H or the Acer G276HLA ? Around £170 per monitor and in the UK. There seems to be quite a few available but I'm not 100% sure on quality. Should I only be looking at IPS panels or is my price point going to too low.

I got
BenQ GW2760HM LED VA Panel 27-inch W Multimedia Monitor 1920 x 1080 20M:1, 4 ms GTG, DVI, HDMI & Speakers - Glossy Black
from amazon for £169. VA panel which is what I wanted, plus HDMI input for my PSTV/PS3, and basic speakers which are enough for my console gaming. I like it, but I don't know what reviews say about lag.

review here - http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/benq_gw2760hs.htm
 

Martal

Neo Member
Currently I have a 660 and an FX 6300 CPU with 8 gig of RAM, a Samsung EVO 840 SSD, all bunched up in quite an old case and running on a somewhat dodgy Psu. I'm not a 100% sure on what motherboard I have because I'm away from my pc but I'm pretty sure its this one https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/M4A78LT_LE/

Lately I noticed my temps are getting quite high. I've always been slightly worried about my case being too small and my Psu being too weak. So I want to upgrade. I'm pretty sure I can figure out the case and Psu on my own based on the OP but I would like suggestions on a am3 socket motherboard. My current one only has 1 fan connector. Is there a way to use more fans with only 1 fan connector on board without making things super loud? Or is a new mobo the way to go? Thanks!

Also I'm in Europe! Estonia Italy
 

Daffy Duck

Member
With multi displays how do you go about hooking them up if the monitors only have 2 x HDMI and 1 x DSUB connection?

Card I'd be looking at is a GTX 960, which has 1 XHDMI port and a load of displayports and a a couple of DVI outputs?

Do you just get a DP-HDMI cable?

Sorry for the noob question.
 
Currently I have a 660 and an FX 6300 CPU with 8 gig of RAM, a Samsung EVO 840 SSD, all bunched up in quite an old case and running on a somewhat dodgy Psu. I'm not a 100% sure on what motherboard I have because I'm away from my pc but I'm pretty sure its this one https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/M4A78LT_LE/

Lately I noticed my temps are getting quite high. I've always been slightly worried about my case being too small and my Psu being too weak. So I want to upgrade. I'm pretty sure I can figure out the case and Psu on my own based on the OP but I would like suggestions on a am3 socket motherboard. My current one only has 1 fan connector. Is there a way to use more fans with only 1 fan connector on board without making things super loud? Or is a new mobo the way to go? Thanks!

Also I'm in Europe! Estonia Italy


It's not worth it buying a new AM3 motherboard. It's a dead socket.

Before spending money, have you cleaned your heatsinks lately?
 
EU-GAF, is this obtainable in the EU?

41oNE2XwwwL.jpg


Costs $60 overseas and from what I've read it's the best PC duster out there.

Found one on Amazon.de for 140EUR (!!!!!!). Crazy.

Anyone got anything similar to recommend? Air cans are not sustainable long term. I really want something good and future proof.
 

Mad Max

Member
EU-GAF, is this obtainable in the EU?

41oNE2XwwwL.jpg


Costs $60 overseas and from what I've read it's the best PC duster out there.

Found one on Amazon.de for 140EUR (!!!!!!). Crazy.

Anyone got anything similar to recommend? Air cans are not sustainable long term. I really want something good and future proof.

For that amount you might as well get an air compressor, a lot more versatile, and you can probably get a cheap one for $60. The only disadvantage is that you should really only use it outside or in the garage, otherwise everything will be covered in dust.
 
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