This is great info, thank you. I'll go over my budget if needed, I don't mind. I know I will have to spend to get a good rig and I'm ok with that if it's pumping out beautiful gaming that makes my eyes bleed.
Thanks!
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
This is great info, thank you. I'll go over my budget if needed, I don't mind. I know I will have to spend to get a good rig and I'm ok with that if it's pumping out beautiful gaming that makes my eyes bleed.
Thanks!
As I understand it, most retailers should email you a code that you can redeem on Steam for Batman. Not sure what happens if you bought the graphics card after they suspended sales of Arkham Knight for being an abysmally shitty PC port, they may or may not still give you a game code, you'd have to contact B&H customer service.
Depends, most backplates are supposed to reduce graphics card sag. Some may also improve temperatures by providing higher mounting pressure, which can aid in providing better contact between the heatsink and the GPU. It certainly makes a difference for CPUs, but whether or not it makes a difference for your GPU may depend on the GPU and the backplate design, I think. Reviews of optional backplates aren't really common, according to this link it does help with the GTX 780 Ti, though.
I am sure the difference between having a backplate or not wouldn't mean overheating or not, so it's safe to go without the backplate.
So I'm planning on building a PC for college. Of my grad money, I said I'd use the majority of it and then some, so uh
My total amount is at $2400 that I'm physically willing to part. However, I also need a laptop for college (for word and such)
Is that reasonably doable if I want a high end gaming desktop and a cheapish laptop? (I'd rather not go through all $2400 if it wasn't needed)
J-just wondering
My total amount is at $2400 that I'm physically willing to part. However, I also need a laptop for college (for word and such)
Is that reasonably doable if I want a high end gaming desktop and a cheapish laptop? (I'd rather not go through all $2400 if it wasn't needed)
J-just wondering
Easily. Laptop suggestions we don't really do here, but you can get quite a powerful gaming desktop for $1500 or even less that will be good for at least 3 years for relatively high graphics and framerate, maybe longer depending on the parts. That would leave you quite a bit for a decent laptop as well.
In the first post of this thread, there's a list of survey questions you can copy and paste that you should answer to give us an idea of the kind of PC that you want.
Other things not listed there that you might want to consider are what size of PC you want and whether you want an emphasis on looks or extremely low noise or silent PC.
Yeah, didn't expect any help for the laptop, oh well >_>
And heres my answers for the survey, thanks so much!
[Basic Desktop Questions]
Your Current Specs:
- N/A, this is from scratch, from monitor to mouse.
Budget:
-$1700 seems like a high one? :3
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming 3, Gaming 5 (high end), Emulation (PS2/Wii) 3, Video Editing 2, Streaming games in HD 1, 3D/Model work (and what program) 1 , General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) 2.5
Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? Are you going to upgrade later? Are you buying a new monitor?
-1080p or 1440p, if I'm already building an expensive rig, isn't that a decent choice?
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 120? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you?
-Basically any modern game. As in, releasing 2015. I prefer 60fps, and would probably go with a nvidia card.
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline?
-I leave for college next month about two or three weeks in, so within the next month is when I'd like to build.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!)
-Hoping it's nice enough that it's a nonissue for now >_>
And I'll just leave it in my dorm room hopefully, so mid/full tower? I don't plan to move it around much thankfully.
Here's a starting build to work with:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.98 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC14PE_RD 78.1 CFM CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($95.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($85.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($162.16 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.56 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($320.01 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($54.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1131.66
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-10 02:17 EDT-0400
This is a very decent build and will be great for a few years at least, and costs just under $1200. You don't have to buy right away, but maybe hold on to this list until a week or so before you intend to buy.
Now, I also intentionally left off the mouse, keyboard, speakers, monitor, etc. I'm not sure what to recommend for you, as those are mostly subjective. You may want a mechanical keyboard, and I don't know if you prefer 2.1/5.1 speakers or maybe a headset. Now, unfortunately I'm not a monitor guy and I'm not up to date on monitor prices, so perhaps someone else can come up with 1080p/1440p (maybe 144Hz?) recommendations for you. For 60FPS at 1440p, you may want a stronger graphics card (GTX 980 Ti? Fury X?), but that will also bring up the cost of the build. Going with Nvidia means you can opt for G-SYNC which is a very nice feature and makes for a very smooth and slick experience. Hopefully the remaining ~$670 should be enough for what you want.
As for overclocking, you don't necessarily need to do that now. You can leave that down the line a few years later, overclocking your processor will let it last longer before it feels old enough that you would need to replace it. The motherboard, CPU cooler, and power supply should be more than adequate for overclocking.
About the laptop, there is a laptop-GAF thread. Not as active as this thread, but I think they should be able to help you in there.
Anyone use Evga precision x 16? So I was messing around with it fine on my 670. It's an evga card. So I'm using my 970 this week, and the program takes forever to load. I tried both the steam and windows version. Both take pretty long 30-40 secs to load on an ssd.
Afterburner is instant. Anyone have similar a experience?
Afterburner is instant. Anyone have similar a experience?
Shadowhaxor
Member
MSI Afterburner with Riva Tuner is a lot better. Granted EVGA precision shouldn't take that long to loud but it's still inferior ro Afterburner. It does everything precision does with better support.
Shadowhaxor
Member
Are you taking into account the cost difference between ddr3 and ddr4?
anchorman128
Member
This, the x99 would be good for the editing, modeling, and other tasks that need a lot of threads. However I don't believe the difference will be just $50, unless you're getting a screaming deal.
Yeah, somehow the price of 2x8gb ddr3 hyper fury and 4x4gb ddr4 crucial ballistix are the same on my local shop's price list (about sgd190), that's why I'm considering it. I'm not sure if they have that msi x99 sli plus motherboard in stock or not though!
This is because I'm getting the more expensive msi gaming mobo for the black and red theme haha. The difference to x99 sli plus + 5820k basically comes to around sgd100 (ok, more like usd75)anchorman128 said:
King Gilga
Member
Any Idea when Amazon.CO.UK themselves will start selling the G1 gigabyte 980ti?
All that's up right now is some price gouging 3rd party seller.
They have the other G1 cards (980/970) and the MSI 980 ti (won't fit into the case I want
) but not this one.
I wonder if I can talk to a rep about it.
All that's up right now is some price gouging 3rd party seller.
They have the other G1 cards (980/970) and the MSI 980 ti (won't fit into the case I want
) but not this one.I wonder if I can talk to a rep about it.
Any Idea when Amazon.CO.UK themselves will start selling the G1 gigabyte 980ti?
All that's up right now is some price gouging 3rd party seller.
They have the other G1 cards (980/970) and the MSI 980 ti (won't fit into the case I want
I wonder if I can talk to a rep about it.
Isn't the G1 980ti longer than the MSI one (31cm vs 27cm)? if the MSI won't fit then the G1 likely won't either I think.
Mmm. I really wonder if I should wait for Skylake or buy a X99 right now. I currently have a i5 2500k, but I'm selling my PC to my nephew since he wants one badly. So I'm planning to buy a new computer.
Thing is, the difference between Skylake and x99 will probably be around 100-150$, but I feel like going 6 cores will be more ''future-proof'' than going 4 cores. I already have everything ordered except the CPU, Motherboard and RAM.
Also, I keep reading to not buy the Skylake processors day 1 and wait like 1-2 months, is this true ? If I choose the Skylake way, I don't want to wait for 2 more months to build my PC.
I'll mainly use my computer for gaming, coding and maybe streaming later on.
Any help ?
Thing is, the difference between Skylake and x99 will probably be around 100-150$, but I feel like going 6 cores will be more ''future-proof'' than going 4 cores. I already have everything ordered except the CPU, Motherboard and RAM.
Also, I keep reading to not buy the Skylake processors day 1 and wait like 1-2 months, is this true ? If I choose the Skylake way, I don't want to wait for 2 more months to build my PC.
I'll mainly use my computer for gaming, coding and maybe streaming later on.
Any help ?
King Gilga
Member
It's the width not the length that's the problem.
The side panel won't come on with the MSI, well at least it doesn't with the 970, don't think thier 980 ti will be much skinnier.
What case is it? Looking at the official specs..
MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G: 269mm x 141mm x 35mm
Gigabyte GTX 980 Ti G1 Gaming: 309mm x 135mm x 42mm
The Gigabyte GTX 980 Ti will stick out less further than the MSI GTX 970. It's not a huge difference (141mm VS 135mm so just 6mm or ~1/4") but it's there.
Xplatformer
Member
First, what resolution are you gaming at? If it's 1080p and you aren't planning to run a lot of Cryengine games a 4gb 960 is plenty for the next few years. Especially with nvidia's new architecture coming out next year. 50-60 fps is fine.
Personally, i'm getting a 970...but my most anticipated title runs on a modified cryengine.
If you're going to play Shadow of Mordor with hi res textures at 60 fps consistently...at ULTRA...yup...get a 970.
You might only get 40fps with the 960
King Gilga
Member
Corsair air 240, from what I heard on the MSI the heatpipes hit the side panel, the case could probably use a nother couple mm in width, but I'm in love with it so what can ya do.
I sorta feel confident saying that the G1 should fit. Gigabyte cards aren't as wide as MSI cards, and the Gigabyte GTX 970 G1/Windforce models are confirmed to fit in the Air 240.
So uh
Yeah, I also want a disc drived, sorry, forgot to mention that! So feel free to change the case out for a similar priced one if it doesn't bankrupt me XD
So basically, I know the case isn't the right one, and I'm unsure about the MB. And if I need a non stock CPU cooler, but you guys would know better than me :3
Thanks guys!
Edit: Yeah, definitely need a diff case, compatibility issues and uh half tower/full over that any day x.x
Edit edit: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/wdDV99
Okay, I got to here. I was going to use an NXST 410 phantom, but it said the GTX 980 may block a drive bay. Do I go with a full tower?
Yeah, I also want a disc drived, sorry, forgot to mention that! So feel free to change the case out for a similar priced one if it doesn't bankrupt me XD
So basically, I know the case isn't the right one, and I'm unsure about the MB. And if I need a non stock CPU cooler, but you guys would know better than me :3
Thanks guys!
Edit: Yeah, definitely need a diff case, compatibility issues and uh half tower/full over that any day x.x
Edit edit: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/wdDV99
Okay, I got to here. I was going to use an NXST 410 phantom, but it said the GTX 980 may block a drive bay. Do I go with a full tower?
NormalFish
Banned
Suggestions on a new motherboard compatible with my i5? Preferably not ASRock, since mine has crapped out and I'm feeling spiteful.
**upon further examination, it seems asrock is really my only option. bummer.
**upon further examination, it seems asrock is really my only option. bummer.
Do it. It'll pay off in the long run.
Any UKGaf looking for an X99 board I thought this was a good deal:
http://www.dabs.com/products/msi-x9...e=awin&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_content=AW00
http://www.dabs.com/products/msi-x9...e=awin&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_content=AW00
Well, for one, the build your friend recommended has good performance, nothing really wrong with it. It's not overclockable though. If you are interested in overclocking the processor (now or in the future) you will need to get a Z97 motherboard and a K model Intel processor. Your build lists the i7 4790, to be able to overclock you need the more expensive i7 4790K instead.
Overclocking is not strictly required, but we tend to recommend and encourage it around here as it's a fairly effective way of keeping your processor competitive for longer before it needs to be upgraded. E.g., the four year old i5 2500K is discontinued but performance-wise it is still a very capable processor, and when overclocked to around 4.5GHz it can fight it out on par with current generation i5 4xxx model processors.
When the compatibility checker says the GTX 980 will block a drive bay, it just means that the graphics card is long enough that it sticks into where a hard drive cage and will prevent you from using those bays.
Normally it's not a big deal, in your case the Phantom 410 will still have a couple of empty bays to use elsewhere, but it's up to you if you prefer a different case because you want more room to add hard drives to in the future.
As for part recommendations, are you interested in getting better performance or saving money? I can see some ways to lower costs without sacrificing very much.
So, pricing aside, the 5820k is generally better suited for photoshop, 3d modeling, video and rendering compared to 4790k right?
Now I'm thinking of changing my cpu and motherboard to something like this if they have them in stock, else I'll stick with 4790k I guess. Good enough? (pricing in singapore is different though!)
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/mf3Xzy
You can try the Define R5 like me, if you like simplicity
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/fractal-design-case-fdcadefr5bkw
Now I'm thinking of changing my cpu and motherboard to something like this if they have them in stock, else I'll stick with 4790k I guess. Good enough? (pricing in singapore is different though!)
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/mf3Xzy
You can try the Define R5 like me, if you like simplicity
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/fractal-design-case-fdcadefr5bkw
nikos
Member
So I bought a Logitech G502 and Steelseries QCK yesterday but I'm not sure I'm happy with either. I realize this has a lot to do with preference, but does anybody have any G502 settings that I can try out? Should I go high DPI + low in-game sensitivity, or the other way around?
Some complaints:
Mouse movement feels a bit tedious and wonky. I feel like I'm mis-clicking when browsing the web or doing basic tasks.
The mouse is a bit heavy, even without weights, but I'm not sure how much that's bothering me yet.
QCK might be a little too clothy for me.
I'm thinking about trying the Deathadder or Steelseries Rival instead. I have Best Buy gift cards, so I'm trying to go with something I can find there, otherwise I'd consider a Zowie.
Perhaps I just need to get used to the new setup. I've been using a non-gaming, smaller wireless mouse + non cloth pad. for years.
Some complaints:
Mouse movement feels a bit tedious and wonky. I feel like I'm mis-clicking when browsing the web or doing basic tasks.
The mouse is a bit heavy, even without weights, but I'm not sure how much that's bothering me yet.
QCK might be a little too clothy for me.
I'm thinking about trying the Deathadder or Steelseries Rival instead. I have Best Buy gift cards, so I'm trying to go with something I can find there, otherwise I'd consider a Zowie.
Perhaps I just need to get used to the new setup. I've been using a non-gaming, smaller wireless mouse + non cloth pad. for years.
Thanks :3
And a bit of both? http://pcpartpicker.com/p/f8Qvt6 is what I'm at, I mean, I want to keep the 980 and such, but sure, lowering the price a little wouldn't kill me.
I mean, I still need a keyboard and monitor and headphones on top of that mouse, orz
I have a k800 logitech keyboard lying around, but that is wireless, so I'm assuming everyone here is going to shoot that down on the spot
Also if I have no clue, IPS or less lag?
I've been so indecisive about what GPU to buy, but I think that now I'm just going to settle on the Sapphire R9 280 for $150: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202099
There's also an offer to take another $10 through american express, which would bring me to $140!
I feel like it would flat out stupid to pass on this for the amount of performance you're getting for the dollar. I was looking heavily at the GTX 970 because it's quiet, but I think that this card is supposed to be pretty quiet as well before the fans kick in after lengthy gaming sessions. As long as it stays quiet when I'm watching high resolution video files, I'll be good. My rig was to be used as a HTPC mainly so I think that this is a good choice. I think I will just buy the successor to the GTX 970 or maybe a 390X for $200 - $300 after 8GB cards become more prevalent. I won't even want them for 4K gaming, but probably to downsample to 1080P on my TV and maintain nearly perfect IQ, lol.
My only concern with my decision are AMD drivers. Are they still improving for the R9 280? I haven't been following this much.
There's also an offer to take another $10 through american express, which would bring me to $140!
I feel like it would flat out stupid to pass on this for the amount of performance you're getting for the dollar. I was looking heavily at the GTX 970 because it's quiet, but I think that this card is supposed to be pretty quiet as well before the fans kick in after lengthy gaming sessions. As long as it stays quiet when I'm watching high resolution video files, I'll be good. My rig was to be used as a HTPC mainly so I think that this is a good choice. I think I will just buy the successor to the GTX 970 or maybe a 390X for $200 - $300 after 8GB cards become more prevalent. I won't even want them for 4K gaming, but probably to downsample to 1080P on my TV and maintain nearly perfect IQ, lol.
My only concern with my decision are AMD drivers. Are they still improving for the R9 280? I haven't been following this much.
Thanks :3
And a bit of both? http://pcpartpicker.com/p/f8Qvt6 is what I'm at, I mean, I want to keep the 980 and such, but sure, lowering the price a little wouldn't kill me.
I mean, I still need a keyboard and monitor and headphones on top of that mouse, orz
I have a k800 logitech keyboard lying around, but that is wireless, so I'm assuming everyone here is going to shoot that down on the spot
Also if I have no clue, IPS or less lag?
Well, if you're going to keep the non-overclocking processor, then you can go with some alternative parts to maximize cost-savings without sacrificing much performance.
Actually, around here we don't recommend the GTX 980 that often. The GTX 970 or the GTX 980 Ti are better for the money, in terms of performance. The GTX 970 can be tweaked to more or less match a stock GTX 980 in performance, so the extra ~$170 isn't really a good deal over getting a GTX 970 to overclock instead. Yes, you can also overclock a GTX 980 to keep it ahead of a GTX 970, but it's still not really worth the extra money when the difference is only.. 20% higher, at best?
Ehh, keyboards are usually pretty subjective. If you don't have a problem with the Logitech keyboard, then use it if you like. Some of the other guys around here are more knowledgeable about mechanical keyboards, though, and might be able to provide suggestions.
Sorry, I'm not a monitor guy. I have a cheap 1080p monitor with a TN panel (I think) so I'm not that big on image quality. Again, maybe others here can help you with that.
Anyway, here's my version of your build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Xeon E3-1231 V3 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($242.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85-HD3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($61.98 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($161.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.56 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($317.44 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($54.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: LG UH12NS30 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM (64-bit) ($86.98 @ OutletPC)
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($59.00 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1252.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-10 13:40 EDT-0400
I replaced the GTX 980 with the GTX 970, but feel free to add back the GTX 980 if you want. One last thing.. if you don't mind taking a bit of a risk..
Windows 7/8.1 licenses can be bought from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap for $20 USD or less. These are most likely legitimate keys that are resold from educational programs like Technet or Dreamspark. However, you are dealing with a person instead of a retailer, and informal Windows keys sales are not approved by Microsoft and probably breaking some licensing agreement, but it's not illegal. The risks involved are that the person could be selling you a fake or used key, or that Microsoft may refuse to give you support and/or deactivate your license and refuse to reactivate it. That's not very likely, usually it only happens if the seller and their list of sold keys was caught. We've had people here using those keys without issues for a long time and others who say Microsoft deactivated their key after several months.
The R9 280 is a rebadged 7950. Still somewhat relevant, but it's nearly three years old. The most recent AMD drivers still have on-going support for it, but I think it's getting a bit too old to recommend, other than if the person looking for a graphics card was on a tight budget and wanted the best possible performance for their money. It's hard to say how well the R9 280 will last into the future. However, that's not a bad deal at all, I don't think there are any other options at that price point.
I think I should be good because I know that the card is supporting games that I will want to play today. I'm really going to be cutting down on the amount of games I purchase in the future as I don't have as much time for them as I would like. The most demanding PC games I care about that are out right now are Witcher 3 and GTA V, and I don't care much for what's coming in the future. I think that two years out, I can see myself actually getting a longer term GPU that I can ride on for 3-4 years once VR becomes more established. In the present time, I care mostly about playing older games in my steam library (which the R9 280 will max out), down sampling Dolphin to 1080P, and running Witcher 3/GTA V decently, which I believe the R9 280 will be able to do fine.
I mean who knows. By the time I get to actually playing Witcher 3, it could be another year or two from now and I would be already looking for another card.
So uh
I know theres the intel vs AMD thing I hear of a lot, but that mobo with an intel processor says I may have to update something on it? If I go with intel, that is.
That something to worry about orr
Can't really recommend AMD nowadays if you're looking for higher end performance. They don't have anything that competes very well against anything above an Intel i3 processor for gaming in most cases.
The B85 motherboard is fine, that's just a generic compatibility warning that PCPartPicker shows you any time you pair up an older chipset with a newer processor. Look here at Gigabyte's official product page for processor compatibility for that specific motherboard. All processors (older and newer) are supported with BIOS version F9 even on the oldest version of the motherboard, which means you shouldn't need a BIOS update in order to be sure the motherboard is compatible with the processor out of the box. It should be all supported and compatible.
If you want to be absolutely sure, contact the retailer you will buy it from and ask them to verify what motherboard hardware revision and BIOS version it comes with, then check with the Gigabyte website. They have three hardware versions of that motherboard listed under rev. 1.x/rev. 2.0/rev. 2.1, double check with the corresponding model of course.
Thanks! And I should go to microcenter to get stuff cheaper like the CPU, right?
Depends. Microcenter doesn't have that specific Xeon processor that I recommended you, but they have other models like the i7 4790 you had in your parts list at first, and overclockable processors like the i5 4690K and i7 4790K. Other than having processors for in-store sale cheaper than most other retailers, Microcenter usually has Intel CPU and motherboard bundles at a good discount. I've also heard that they will knock $20 off the cost of just about any bill where you buy a processor and motherboard, although I'm not too sure about that one.
Nakkilokki
Banned
This good? How is the 4690K still around?
Also, my Corator DS cooler supports LGA1156 and LGA1155, is it going to support LGA 1150?
Yep. And 1151
I'm trying to pick out the thinnest monitor with the smallest bezel I can find. Feel like I've narrowed it down to the Dell U2414H and the S2415H, but I'm having trouble deciding which is the better buy. It appears the U2414 has more ports and a nicer stand while the S has built in speakers.
Could anyone weigh in on which is the better purchase? I do not care about ports or stand quality.
Could anyone weigh in on which is the better purchase? I do not care about ports or stand quality.
okay, going with http://pcpartpicker.com/p/cFYYK8
except in store a 4790k is $5 less than whats listed there, so I'll go and pick that up in 45m
Is this an okay choice? And is the monitor good? (For reference, monitor is a BenQ RL2455HM 60Hz 24.0" Monitor)
If so, I'm ready to start buying en masse.
except in store a 4790k is $5 less than whats listed there, so I'll go and pick that up in 45m
Is this an okay choice? And is the monitor good? (For reference, monitor is a BenQ RL2455HM 60Hz 24.0" Monitor)
If so, I'm ready to start buying en masse.
Am stubborn about the 980 because I basically get the part free as a grad gift lol
Erebus
Member
OK this is probably slightly off-topic but I'd rather ask here than create a whole new thread for a simple question.
I want to replace my laptop's HDD with an SSD, thus needing to install Win 8.1 afresh. Is there any specific procedure I have to follow in order to save the product key and the genuine activation? The laptop came with Windows 8.1 pre-installed btw.
I want to replace my laptop's HDD with an SSD, thus needing to install Win 8.1 afresh. Is there any specific procedure I have to follow in order to save the product key and the genuine activation? The laptop came with Windows 8.1 pre-installed btw.
Unless your new SSD is really small and you can't fit everything onto it, it's much easier and faster to clone your existing hard drive's data to the SSD. Here's a guide, but basically the perks are that you won't need to change anything or deal with reactivation, and everything including all of the data and software will stay as is except it'll be on the SSD. It's also safe, as cloning to the SSD means you're just copying the data over. If the cloning fails, all the data is still on the hard drive and not harmed.
On the other hand, if you feel that your laptop needs to get refreshed so you want to reinstall Windows, then you can use a program like Speccy to display your Windows key so you can write it down for safekeeping. However, it's also likely that your laptop has SLIC Windows licensing, which means the key and activation information is saved in the BIOS and when you reinstall Windows it won't even need to be reactivated manually as Windows 8.1 will automatically read the SLIC information and activate itself.
Erebus
Member
Thanks for the quick reply!
Is there any performance penalty for going with the first option?
I've been having screen tearing on games that really aren't all that demanding and I'm wondering how to fix it. I've already set vertical sync to adaptive in NVIDIA control panel. V sync is on in the games I try. Specifically Ultra Street Fighter 4 on STEAM and most recently the demo of a very undemanding game, Ronin. I have a GTX 670. Any clues?
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