• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

Status
Not open for further replies.

Handal

Member
Hi guys, I'm currently planning my next PC.

Right now, I have 2 sets.

i7-4790k : ~1000$ CAD
i7-5820k : ~1200$ CAD

Is it worth going for the i7-5820k for 200$ more ? I see that games are starting to scale with the number of cores ( Battlefield 4, Witcher 3, probably Battlefront since it's using the Frostbite Engine ). There's also DirectX 12 coming.

This computer will mainly be used for gaming, browsing internet, do some Android programmation, and maybe I'll learn some video editing.

So, what should I do ?
 

RGM79

Member
I've had it with my phenom II. I'm done. No more, this thing is so useless for gaming now, I've completely stopped playing newer games because I can't deal with low fps. Can't even play dirty bomb on this POS.

Upgrade time, ordering sometime this week. This is what I'm looking at in my checkout cart.

Core i5 4690K cpu
€ 249,50

4gb ddr3 1600 HyperX Savage CL9.0
4gb ddr3 1600 HyperX Savage CL9.0
€ 54,76

Gigabyte GA-Z97P-D3 Motherboard
€ 91,95

Is there anything wrong with this particular ram or this particular motherboard that I should know about?

Will the stock cooler do for now? I'll put something aftermarket on it soon but I want a silent cooler (not that evo one) and am not in the mood to research it today.

What country are you in? Why two separate kits of 4GB DDR3 instead of a single 2x4GB kit of DDR3 RAM? Yes, the stock cooler will do just fine if you won't be overclocking. You'll have to do some research on what cooler you want sooner or later, but if you won't be doing it now, just keep in mind that around here we tend to recommend Noctua if silence is important.

If I'm getting the Fury X, do I need to consider that in my case purchase?

Like I know the Fractal Define R5 has open spots for the fan in the front (not using side or top vents).

Yes, it'd be a good idea to make sure they're compatible. I think the Define R5 should be just fine as the card itself is not very large, all you need is a 120mm fan mount near the graphics card.
 
The MSI Z97M Gaming is a fine motherboard that should be more than adequate for your needs. Reviews of it are quite good, Bit-Tech was able to use it to overclock a i7 4770K up to 4.8GHz and Overclockers were also able to do 4.8GHz for an i7 4790K.

Yes, VRM phases do help with overclocking capability, but it's not the only thing. More power phases ensure better reliability and stability, but no one really needs more than 8 power phases for overclocking Intel processors (unless they're going for a world record with liquid nitrogen cooling) and 4 is actually not bad for most users. Yeah, I'd say the Asus might have an easier time hitting higher clock speeds and staying there stably, but its not really required.

Personally, I have a Pentium G3258 overclocked to 4.7GHz on a B85 motherboard which I'm pretty sure only has 2 or 3 power phases. Granted, it's not always stable (GTAV is the one game that can rock the boat hard enough to crash my PC) but it is possible. Still, it's not totally advisable and I don't plan to keep running my PC that hard for much longer.

For your needs, I am confident that the MSI motherboard will do just fine for your needs and overclocking expectations.

Oh that's a relief, thanks a lot, I'll go with the MSI then as I would prefer.

Thank's!
 

zewone

Member
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD A10-7850K 3.7GHz Quad-Core Processor ($123.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-F2A68HM-DS2H Micro ATX FM2+ Motherboard ($46.74 @ Mwave)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($54.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: Rosewill Line-M MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $300.60
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-20 18:14 EDT-0400

This is the budget build I made fairly quick. Storage is not a problem. I have plenty of drives at home and same with Win8 license.

vs. the Alienware Alpha I purchased for $350.

Processor 2.9 GHz Intel Core i3
RAM 4 GB DDR3
Memory Speed 1600 MHz
Graphics Coprocessor Custom Nvidia Maxwell GPU

What would you guys go for?
 
For 5820k, I rather u consider swiftech h220x. Or at least those 280mm aio. I myself benefit going to custom from the silver arrow. 12 Celsius cooler across the cores, and it seems to help stability, I needed lower voltages for the same overclock.

The thing with air coolers is you need good airflow in and out of your case. If not you will be feeding warm air through the heatsink.

Yeah, I may go that route... I did think pretty seriouly about the swiftech, but decided to stick with what i know and give air a shot first. If I can get a decent OC on it I'll probably run air for a while.

I'm looking forward to keeping this machine around for a while and playing with it!
 

SLX

Banned
Damnit now I'm getting BSOD for System Service Exception and "Driver IRQL not less or equal"

This was in the middle of a CS:GO game. Do I have to uninstall my drivers from my GTX980ti?

I'm gaming on the BenQ XL2420G, Gysnc off but ULMB on 120hz.
 

LilJoka

Member
Ok guys I ran XTU and here are the results:

Here is my computer at idle:


Here is the computer after 5 minutes of CPU Stress Testing

The issue is now, I got a BSOD right before I hit 30 minutes:

Am I OK here?

It was some sort of system error on the actual blue screen before it rebooted.

Temps seem too high for Noctua D14, these kind of temps i expect with a Freezer Pro 7 with an overclock.

Reason is because you lifted the heatsink when doing the thermal paste. That will cause air bubbles to get trapped and temps to go out of whack. You got to do it in once clean sweep. Pea sized blob of thermal paste in the centre of the CPU, drop the cooler on top straight and dont lift. Screw into place.

And no it is not OK that your PC got a BSOD running XTU at stock.

Edit
Just read your other post, you may have other issues besides CPU temps causing BSODs, but best to fix the easy things first to rule them out, so start with the heatsink.
 
What country are you in? Why two separate kits of 4GB DDR3 instead of a single 2x4GB kit of DDR3 RAM? Yes, the stock cooler will do just fine if you won't be overclocking. You'll have to do some research on what cooler you want sooner or later, but if you won't be doing it now, just keep in mind that around here we tend to recommend Noctua if silence is important.

Belgium
the 2 singles because it's like 10 euros cheaper than the nearest 8GB cl9 kit from a respectable brand

I guess I'll keep the cpu at stock clocks for a while then:p I've never used a stock cooler before it'll be interesting to see how much noise it makes:p
Eh maybe I'll look into coolers tomorrow, I know myself I procrastinate endlessly and will end up using that noisy POS stock cooler for a year otherwise.

I've been going back n forth between an i3 +H mobo (230 euros) or an i5 + Z mobo (400 euros) as well but I guess with cpu progress at a complete halt this cpu will probably be a 6-8 year purchase... I still regret cheaping out with my phenom II and not just paying 100 euros extra at the time for an i7 920 and intel mobo.
 

SLX

Banned
Try BlueScreenView, see what it comes up with?

qIiuoZH.png


GKr0phY.png
 

BShadowJ

Member
So hey guys, I'm thinking of building a budget gaming PC soon. I'm pretty short on cash so it's not a super expensive build, but I think I'm happy with it. The only thing I have in doubt is the GPU; right now I have a GTX 960 with 2GB VRAM. I can get a R9 380 2GB though for about 10€ more. From what I understand, the R9 380 is a slightly better card, but it draws way more power than the GTX 960. Do you feel it's worth it still?

Here's my build for reference: (I'm from Portugal, and feel free to critique it anyway)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-4160 3.6GHz Dual-Core Processor (€108.00)
Motherboard: MSI H81M-E34 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (€58.98)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Red 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (€49.10 @ Amazon Espana)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€48.50)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 960 2GB Video Card (€197.00 @ Amazon Espana)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case (€39.12 @ Amazon Espana)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (€58.20)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter (€33.80)
Total: €592.70
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-21 00:41 CEST+0200
 

SLX

Banned
FWIW I couldn't connect to the internet once I freshly installed Windows 8.1, so I had to run the drivers from the MSI CD.

After that I downloaded MSI Live Update 6 and had them update all the other drivers, including that Killer Network program or whatever it is.

But fuck this sucks. I spent like $3k on this computer for it to do this shit. I'm pissed.
 

SRG01

Member
Don't install the other apps. Just install the drivers nearly everything on the MSI CD is bloatware (and yes, even XTU... gave me lots of BSODs).

If you've just started this build, just wipe and reinstall. Much easier than trying to figure out what's happening with the system.
 

SLX

Banned
Don't install the other apps. Just install the drivers nearly everything on the MSI CD is bloatware (and yes, even XTU... gave me lots of BSODs).

If you've just started this build, just wipe and reinstall. Much easier than trying to figure out what's happening with the system.

Should I just do the driver that will give me network activity then go on the MSI page to install the rest (chipset, sound, etc)?

Damn I really don't want to mess with the heatsink but if temps are too high...
 

kennah

Member
Hi guys, I'm currently planning my next PC.

Right now, I have 2 sets.

i7-4790k : ~1000$ CAD
i7-5820k : ~1200$ CAD

Is it worth going for the i7-5820k for 200$ more ? I see that games are starting to scale with the number of cores ( Battlefield 4, Witcher 3, probably Battlefront since it's using the Frostbite Engine ). There's also DirectX 12 coming.

This computer will mainly be used for gaming, browsing internet, do some Android programmation, and maybe I'll learn some video editing.

So, what should I do ?
You should wait a few weeks for skylake. Then decide.
 

SRG01

Member
Should I just do the driver that will give me network activity then go on the MSI page to install the rest (chipset, sound, etc)?

Damn I really don't want to mess with the heatsink but if temps are too high...

No, you can install the drivers from the CD and you'll be fine. Just deselect everything else from Live Update.

Also, what's your motherboard/cpu? I had 85-90C on the normal stress test with the stock cooler with my 4790K, and undervolted to get slightly better temps. Ended up getting a CNPS5X Performa since I didn't want to pull out the motherboard again.

If you're not on the Z-series, you may have to downgrade your BIOS firmware to get undervolting back, because MSI decided to lock out that feature for their H-series.
 

SLX

Banned
No, you can install the drivers from the CD and you'll be fine. Just deselect everything else from Live Update.

Also, what's your motherboard/cpu? I had 85-90C on the normal stress test with the stock cooler with my 4790K, and undervolted to get slightly better temps. Ended up getting a CNPS5X Performa since I didn't want to pull out the motherboard again.

If you're not on the Z-series, you may have to downgrade your BIOS firmware to get undervolting back, because MSI decided to lock out that feature for their H-series.

Z97-A Gaming 7, 4790K
 

SRG01

Member
Z97-A Gaming 7, 4790K

Yeah, those temps are similar to what I got.

But yeah, my suggestion is to wipe and start over OR you can install all those bloatware programs (including XTU) and retest. hal.dll and tcpip.dll suggest to me that it's one of the bloatware programs interfering with Windows... and Network Killer always seemed kind of sketchy to me.

Also, Bug Check code 03b is caused by a service, which definitely points to something that was installed...
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Back in that single card life brehs

The way it was meant to be. :)

5c225fcc36bef6930f09dae1993abb86225ae80186a028e31e6979e7e8776649.jpg


----

I'll be holding off on upgrading to Windows 10. I found out that drivers for my sound card (X-Fi Titanium HD) won't be available until October and I'd rather have windows 7 with my sound card than windows 10 with onboard sound lol. Here's hoping that drivers for my mouse (Logitech G400s) are available relatively soon as well :(
 
The other parts would mostly stay the same, but with the money saved, he could spend it on a stronger graphics card or more RAM. Maybe like this?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($60.00 w/ Micro Center CPU bundle)
Memory: Mushkin Redline 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba Product Series:DT01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.55 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 290 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($242.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($41.99 @ Directron)
Power Supply: XFX Core Edition 750W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Acer K242HQL BBID 60Hz 23.6" Monitor ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $812.48
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-20 18:07 EDT-0400

Yeah that looks great, thanks man appreciate the help.
 

Arkanius

Member
The way it was meant to be. :)

5c225fcc36bef6930f09dae1993abb86225ae80186a028e31e6979e7e8776649.jpg


----

I'll be holding off on upgrading to Windows 10. I found out that drivers for my sound card (X-Fi Titanium HD) won't be available until October and I'd rather have windows 7 with my sound card than windows 10 with onboard sound lol. Here's hoping that drivers for my mouse (Logitech G400s) are available relatively soon as well :(

I have an X-Fi Titanium
There are drivers for it. CMSS-3D and all

http://forums.creative.com/showthread.php?t=714135

--------------------------------

Guys
Monitor LG UltraWide 21:9 34" IPS (34UM95-P)

650€

Yes/No/Yolo ?
 

SLX

Banned
Yeah, those temps are similar to what I got.

But yeah, my suggestion is to wipe and start over OR you can install all those bloatware programs (including XTU) and retest. hal.dll and tcpip.dll suggest to me that it's one of the bloatware programs interfering with Windows... and Network Killer always seemed kind of sketchy to me.

Also, Bug Check code 03b is caused by a service, which definitely points to something that was installed...
What's odd though is your temps are coming from the stock cooler but mine is the same and I have a NH-D14
 
What's your guys opinion on APUs?

I was looking at the AMD A10-7850K for a budget gaming PC.

I have one paired with 2400Hz RAM in my HTPC. I was playing borderlands on it this past weekend. 720p, but in the livingroom, that's fine. I play it downsampled to 5K on my Gaming PC. As long as you don't mind lower resolution and turning down some settings, that APU isn't terrible. I've been pleasantly surprised by it's performance, actually.

If you're going to overclock, I'd focus on the GPU cores over the CPU. Bigger improvement there.
 

MrDaravon

Member
Have you thought about getting an APU like an AMD A10 7850k? Should be able to play your listed games pretty well and doesn't require a dedicated GPU. Plus you would sti have the option down the line of upgrading to a dedicated GPU later down the line. I would assume the CPU built into it is probably better than the dual-core Pentium you chose, too (edit: actually, I may be wrong, there). I don't know. Just a thought. Of course, you would have to switch out your motherboard for an AMD. Amazon has a pretty nice Asus micro ATX board for ~$65.

Honestly, the build you have looks good, though, for what you want. I don't know how long the CPU would stay viable for, but it's cheap.

The 7850K's graphical capabilities are roughly comparable with the R7 250 graphics card. Your original Intel-based parts list had the R7 265 which is quite a bit stronger than what the APU would be capable of, graphics performance-wise.

Don't worry about the motherboard, it's compatible. Yes, for an AMD APU-based build, you will want faster RAM because the graphics performance of the APU is highly dependent on RAM speed. The recommendation for an aftermarket CPU cooler is because the 7850K can be overclocked for higher performance, although heat, noise, and power consumption all go up.

If you were willing to spend more and/or wanted to upgrade the PC further in the future for even higher performance, I'd recommend going with the Intel-based PC parts, but if you were looking to save costs and go for just what you need then AMD is the better buy.

Thanks for the responses! At this point I'll probably stick with my original build since after getting faster ram and a cooler I wouldn't be saving a whole lot going with the APU, and it seems like the performance isn't going to be nearly as good. I'll probably check back in in the next few weeks when I'm actually going to order parts but for a starter entry build that will become a secondary PC later this year I think I'm good to go.
 

RGM79

Member
Shit looks like the only option I have is to install the Killer Network drivers to get internet access.

Is there any other way around it?

Why wouldn't you want to install the drivers? It's not like you have to install the application.
 

SRG01

Member
Shit looks like the only option I have is to install the Killer Network drivers to get internet access.

Is there any other way around it?

??? You should be able to get internet access (edit: and install drivers) without installing the Network Killer thing..? This is really odd.

edit: On your MSI driver DVD, navigate to the Network directory to get direct access to the drivers.
 

devonodev

Member
I've been helping pick out parts for a new gaming PC, opinions on what's here? Ignore the listed prices, and the fact they're in AUD. And I know a better heatsink is missing.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($470.00 @ Scorptec)
Motherboard: Asus Z97-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($209.00 @ CPL Online)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($87.00 @ CPL Online)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($150.00 @ Umart)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($128.00 @ Centre Com)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($499.00 @ IJK)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($134.00 @ PLE Computers)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0 DVD/CD Writer ($19.00 @ IJK)
Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-N15 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($23.00 @ CPL Online)
Total: $1719.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-21 11:12 AEST+1000
Also a Couger Challenger case.

Thanks!
 

Crisium

Member
So hey guys, I'm thinking of building a budget gaming PC soon. I'm pretty short on cash so it's not a super expensive build, but I think I'm happy with it. The only thing I have in doubt is the GPU; right now I have a GTX 960 with 2GB VRAM. I can get a R9 380 2GB though for about 10€ more. From what I understand, the R9 380 is a slightly better card, but it draws way more power than the GTX 960. Do you feel it's worth it still?

The more important thing here is to go for a 4gb card. That's worth the extra cash. I'd favor the 380 as I think it will only get relatively faster with age (there's a remarkable memory bandwidth gap) but the more important thing is getting a 4gb card whether 380 or 960. Hitting that memory bottleneck will make you buy another card sooner if you go 2gb.
 

SRG01

Member
The more important thing here is to go for a 4gb card. That's worth the extra cash. I'd favor the 380 as I think it will only get relatively faster with age (there's a remarkable memory bandwidth gap) but the more important thing is getting a 4gb card whether 380 or 960. Hitting that memory bottleneck will make you buy another card sooner if you go 2gb.

I doubt he'll actually hit the 2GB limit if he's gaming on 1080p.
 

SLX

Banned
??? You should be able to get internet access (edit: and install drivers) without installing the Network Killer thing..? This is really odd.

edit: On your MSI driver DVD, navigate to the Network directory to get direct access to the drivers.
I thought so too but couldn't find away around the Killer Network. I'll have to try again tomorrow, tires of tweaking and tinkering tonight.
 
Is there a general non-gaming laptop buying advice thread? I'd like a great 15" laptop with an SSD for under $1k. Will give more specifics if this is a fair place to ask.
 

BShadowJ

Member
The more important thing here is to go for a 4gb card. That's worth the extra cash. I'd favor the 380 as I think it will only get relatively faster with age (there's a remarkable memory bandwidth gap) but the more important thing is getting a 4gb card whether 380 or 960. Hitting that memory bottleneck will make you buy another card sooner if you go 2gb.

I doubt he'll actually hit the 2GB limit if he's gaming on 1080p.

Yeah I'm going to be gaming on 1080p, and ~600€ is my budget. To get more VRAM either I'd have to go with a R9 280 (which from my understanding is slightly worse than those two) or spend at least another 40€ over the R9 380 2GB card... Too bad I can't ditch the wireless card. >_>

I also honestly don't think it'll be worth spending the extra money because I'm not going to be playing any recent AAA title soon... Regardless, thanks for the suggestion and help!
 
Does anyone recommend the Acer XB270H Abprz?

Will be matched with a 980ti.

I can. That is my setup with a 980 Ti Classified along with a 2600k oced to 4.4 ghz and 16GB of RAM. A lot of people will try to steer you towards 1440p or 4k, but as long as you are fine with TN panels, you'll have the best 1080p high frame rate experience you can get. Just fired up World of Warcraft with the 7 days free offer, and it's like a different game between the G-sync and the high frame rate. So smooth. I'm playing at max settings with MFAA. I also played a little of GTA V and it was looking amazing. I really want to play Arkham Knight, but we know how broken that is...
 

OraleeWey

Member
I there some type of smoke out there that let's you check the airflow of your PC? I've heard of people using dry ice. Anyone have any idea what one could use?
 

SRG01

Member
Yeah I'm going to be gaming on 1080p, and ~600€ is my budget. To get more VRAM either I'd have to go with a R9 280 (which from my understanding is slightly worse than those two) or spend at least another 40€ over the R9 380 2GB card... Too bad I can't ditch the wireless card. >_>

I also honestly don't think it'll be worth spending the extra money because I'm not going to be playing any recent AAA title soon... Regardless, thanks for the suggestion and help!

You can go for the 960 4GB if you're really worried about it. It's only about $50 more, of which I don't know the equivalent in euros.
 

Nick

Junior Member
I have kinda a difficult question to describe for you guys. I may need to provide pictures. I have a Corsair 760T case and an ASROCK Z87 EXTREME 3 motherboard. When I install the motherboard into the case, my ASUS Xonar soundcard and my Intel network adapter do not line up perfectly with the case securely. Both of them wiggle. Do I have to physically bend them to screw in perfectly? I can post pictures if it can help.
 

SRG01

Member
I have kinda a difficult question to describe for you guys. I may need to provide pictures. I have a Corsair 760T case and an ASROCK Z87 EXTREME 3 motherboard. When I install the motherboard into the case, my ASUS Xonar soundcard and my Intel network adapter do not line up perfectly with the case securely. Both of them wiggle. Do I have to physically bend them to screw in perfectly? I can post pictures if it can help.

This sort of happened to me: see if your motherboard is hitting the IO backplate tabs. This may stress your motherboard enough that your cards won't line up properly. Either that, or your mounting screws are off slightly.
 
Just had a strange experience.

I noticed that Windows had an important security update available so I installed it and restarted my pc. I'm using Windows 8.1 Pro.

When Windows said getting your computer ready I noticed that the resolution was really low. After it was done and I got to the desktop the resolution was still low and my second monitor hadn't turned on.

After about 10-15 seconds the resolution bumped back up to the normal and my other monitor came on.

I noticed an Nvidia icon had been placed on my desktop.

Out of curiosity I checked recently installed programs and found out the my Nvidia drivers had just been reinstalled. It wasn't a new version. The old drivers had just been reinstalled for some reason.

I have a 980 Ti. Could this be a hardware problem? Or could the Windows update be to blame?

I've been using this system for a a few weeks now and haven't had any crashes or anything like that.
 
I have kinda a difficult question to describe for you guys. I may need to provide pictures. I have a Corsair 760T case and an ASROCK Z87 EXTREME 3 motherboard. When I install the motherboard into the case, my ASUS Xonar soundcard and my Intel network adapter do not line up perfectly with the case securely. Both of them wiggle. Do I have to physically bend them to screw in perfectly? I can post pictur
es if it can help.


Screw holes always have some slop in them- have you tried slightly loosening the MB screws, and shifting it slightly to line things up better? Hopefully that would get it close enough that nothing needs to noticably bend (and definitely don't force things if they do need to bend, its possible to crack solder joints if you do).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom