Support NeoGAF

[Athreous]

That's weird, it shouldn't have been an .exe file at all. I linked you to the downloads page and told you to get "Killer Network Driver (driver only)", which comes in a 280KB .zip file. Here's a direct link to that file.

I think I'll join the others in recommending that you reseat the heatsink later. Good luck with your PC.



If you're only concerned about PCSX2 performance, you should know that it only uses three cores for now, the i7 processor's added hyperthreading won't make much of a difference if at all.

Edit: Did you mean i7 4770 or i7 4770K? If the latter..

The i7 4770K and i5 4690K run at the same default clock speeds (3.5GHz stock clock, 3.9GHz turbo clock). Given that PCSX2 only uses three cores and both processors run at the same clock speed, they should perform very similarly if not nearly identical for PS2 emulation.

Which one you should get depends on how much you can get the i7 4770K for, but if it comes around to be a similar cost, then the i7 4770K would be preferable in general over the i5 4690K.

Hmm I see, in a long term, it's better to get the 4770k right? even if I have to spend a bit more.

 

[RGM79]

Hmm I see, in a long term, it's better to get the 4770k right? even if I have to spend a bit more.

It's sort of hard to say, really. If you do video editing or other computation heavy work then the i7 and its hyperthreading will benefit you enough that it'd be worth it. Otherwise for normal use and gaming in general, the i5 is just as good and costs less. The i7 4770K has the potential to perform better than the i5 4690K if only game developers were to take more advantage of multiple processing threads in the future.. but for now and the foreseeable short-term future, the i5 processor line represents best value for gaming. When compared, the i5 4690K performs extremely closely to the newer i7 4790K in gaming framerate performance.

Just how much does the i7 4770K that you're looking at cost for you?

 

[Athreous]

It's sort of hard to say, really. If you do video editing or other computation heavy work then the i7 and its hyperthreading will benefit you enough that it'd be worth it. Otherwise for normal use and gaming in general, the i5 is just as good and costs less. The i7 4770K has the potential to perform better than the i5 4690K if only game developers were to take more advantage of multiple processing threads in the future.. but for now and the foreseeable short-term future, the i5 processor line represents best value for gaming. When compared, the i5 4690K performs extremely closely to the newer i7 4790K in gaming framerate performance.

Just how much does the i7 4770K that you're looking at cost for you?

I'm still looking for the best place to buy the CPU + MB =D

 

[j-wood]

Are these any good? Seems like a huge sale:

http://computers.woot.com/offers/steelseries-flux-gaming-headsets?ref=gh_cp_4_s_txt

 

[RGM79]

I'm still looking for the best place to buy the CPU + MB =D

Oh. Since you brought up the 4770K, I thought you found a used one for sale or something. It's been discontinued and replaced by the newer 4790K.

 

[mr_chun]

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/P76DvK

I am eventually going to inherit a hand-me-down 980ti. So I'm trying to make a gaming-centric build that will support that GPU when the time comes.

Until then, I only need a passable GPU. I haven't had a PC in over three years (ASUS G53SW is dead in my closet, been on MacBook since then), so most of my game collection should run just fine on an older card - I do want something that can run Borderlands, Fallout 3, Minecraft, etc. Nothing from the last few years is necessary until I upgrade the card.

Budget: under $800
Monitor: 1080p
Needs: 60fps preferred. Need to be able to capture game footage at 30fps.
Deadline: over the next two months
Overclock: no

What do you think, guys and gals?

 

[Athreous]

Oh. Since you brought up the 4770K, I thought you found a used one for sale or something. It's been discontinued and replaced by the newer 4790K.

Oh, I didnt know that >_<

Well, about the MB, does the i5/i7 series reqs a specifc one to use it's full power?

 

[AJLma]

Okay, I'm really tired of waiting for EVGA to stop playing games with their hybrid coolers.

Is there any way for me to get my Titan X under water for under $200? ACX 2.0 is not cutting it in my small case.

 

[RGM79]

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/P76DvK

I am eventually going to inherit a hand-me-down 980ti. So I'm trying to make a gaming-centric build that will support that GPU when the time comes.

Until then, I only need a passable GPU. I haven't had a PC in over three years (ASUS G53SW is dead in my closet, been on MacBook since then), so most of my game collection should run just fine on an older card - I do want something that can run Borderlands, Fallout 3, Minecraft, etc. Nothing from the last few years is necessary until I upgrade the card.

Budget: under $800
Monitor: 1080p
Needs: 60fps preferred. Need to be able to capture game footage at 30fps.
Deadline: over the next two months
Overclock: no

What do you think, guys and gals?

Not a bad build, but there are some better choices you can make:

• High speed RAM is available for cheaper (1866/2133/2400MHz)
• Kingston V300 is a poorly performing SSD that was subject to shady bait-and-switch parts changing
• Corsair 300R is available at the same price as the 200R
• Do you really need a DVD drive?

I'd go with a build like this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Extreme3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($97.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Apotop 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba Product SeriesT01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.55 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R7 265 2GB Video Card ($112.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $728.47
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-21 14:14 EDT-0400

The changes I made were to substitute in faster RAM, a larger and higher quality SSD, stronger graphics card, a better case, and a cheaper but still highly rated power supply. It costs a little bit more than your original build.

Now, I don't know exactly how much you want to keep the build under $800, but if you were to go right up to that limit, you could get an R9 280 and it'd serve you well for the next while. Given that the GTX 980 Ti just came out not too long ago and is still in short supply and if you're waiting for someone to hand it down to you after they upgrade, you might be waiting for a while. If you want 60FPS on medium and maybe high settings, I recommend you go for an R9 280 or GTX 960.

Oh, I didnt know that >_<

Well, about the MB, does the i5/i7 series reqs a specifc one to use it's full power?

If you're talking about the overclockable K-type processors (i5 4690K, i7 4790K), Z97 motherboards are recommended.

 

[Kathian]

Hi all. So last night despite my PC under little heat or pressure the whole thing shut down. I have since been unable to start it.

Now what does happen I've found from trying one part of the system after another is that when switched on the CPU fan will start but then stop. At the same time my PSU makes an audible click.

My PSU is a fanless Seasonic and I can see inside what looks like thermal paste (I think - looks like gum) placed over some of the components (knocks and cranies but doesn't look purposeful).

Anyone able to help figure it out? Or offer advise?

 

[RGM79]

Hi all. So last night despite my PC under little heat or pressure the whole thing shut down. I have since been unable to start it.

Now what does happen I've found from trying one part of the system after another is that when switched on the CPU fan will start but then stop. At the same time my PSU makes an audible click.

My PSU is a fanless Seasonic and I can see inside what looks like thermal paste (I think - looks like gum) placed over some of the components (knocks and cranies but doesn't look purposeful).

Anyone able to help figure it out? Or offer advise?

What model of power supply do you have exactly? Normally I'd recommend you try the paper clip test to see if the power supply works by itself, but since it has no fan, it'd be hard to tell if it's running. You can still do the paper clip test if you have something to plug into the power supply to test if it works, though. Like a hard drive or fan or LED strip?

 

[jim2point0]

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/P76DvK

I am eventually going to inherit a hand-me-down 980ti. So I'm trying to make a gaming-centric build that will support that GPU when the time comes.

Until then, I only need a passable GPU. I haven't had a PC in over three years (ASUS G53SW is dead in my closet, been on MacBook since then), so most of my game collection should run just fine on an older card - I do want something that can run Borderlands, Fallout 3, Minecraft, etc. Nothing from the last few years is necessary until I upgrade the card.

If you want to pay for shipping, I can send you my 4GB GTX 680 =P Only problem is that I don't have the original box to ship it in. I'd probably just put it in an Anti-static bag and bubblewrap the shit out of it

 

[Kathian]

What model of power supply do you have exactly? Normally I'd recommend you try the paper clip test to see if the power supply works by itself, but since it has no fan, it'd be hard to tell if it's running. You can still do the paper clip test if you have something to plug into the power supply to test if it works, though. Like a hard drive or fan or LED strip?

My front fan connects straight into the peripheral sections? Will that do the same?

 

[Kathian]

Heh. Mailed Seasonic but this is why its good to ask people. I'd unplugged the front fan when testing the system and now I see it turn on just as the CPU is. Just like the CPU fan it quickly turns on.

Suggests power is getting through with the Motherboard clearly working but the CPU not then powering up?

However do not think it is be CPU; sometimes the fan will go on for moment literally shifting and falling back in place and others for maybe a second or so. I also need to leave the unit off before switching it on and staring the computer - otherwise nothing happens.

Each time it turns off it makes that tick and uckily my front fan is the loudest fan in the system - its sound kicks in then the tick in the PSU switches it all off.

 

[Thorgal]

So is it true that your pc going into sleep mode will kill an SSD Longterm ?

 

[kennah]

So is it true that your pc going into sleep mode will kill an SSD Longterm ?

Sleep - no
Hibernate - maybe but in 35 years instead of 50 years.

 

[BolognaOni]

There used to be an issue with some SSDs causing blue screens when going into sleep, or hybrid sleep modes. Has been fixed with more recent models/firmware though.

I am unaware of any life impacts. Overall I still trust an SSD way more than an HDD.

 

[Hazaro]

Are these any good? Seems like a huge sale:

http://computers.woot.com/offers/steelseries-flux-gaming-headsets?ref=gh_cp_4_s_txt

Good deal if you have small ears. Pretty okay. Mic can makes noise if hits shirt.

 

[V1LÆM]

Sorry if this doesn't belong here but I just experienced an issue with my PC that I built exactly 5 months ago.

Basically the computer just froze completely but there was this constant buzzing noise coming through the speakers. Couldn't do anything but hold the power button down to turn it off. I've used the computer for a few hundred hours, played a load of games, done benchmark tests so I'd say it's been broke it yet this has never happened before.

Usually my PC is connected to my monitor which is where the sound comes from but when this happened my PC was connected to my TV with sound coming out it. Also I connected new speakers today which takes audio from the motherboard instead of the GPU's hdmi.

specs:

i5-4590, 8GB corsair vengeance 1600Mhz, Gigabyte H97M-D3H, R9 290 (latest drivers). 750w evga supernova G2 psu, wd blue 1tb 7200rpm.

EDIT* just happened again. both times while i ran HWiNFO64. hmmm

 

[ShyGuy0504]

Speaking of SSDs I have a question.

I recently built a new pc. It has two 500GB 850 EVOs.

I'm using an Nvidia card for the first time in a long time.

I've discovered Shadowplay and I really like the feature. I get no noticeable performance drop and can save clips at any time and the quality is good.

That's one of my favorite things about my Xbox One and I'm glad I can now use it on pc.

But how will this affect my SSD? It constantly writes while recording.

I plan on using this system for about 5 years. Will this kill my SSD before then?

I'd rather not have to buy an hdd unless it's absolutely necessary.

 

[Darkone]

Thinking of buying the Acer 4K XB280HK
Anyone have it that can comment if its worth purchasing?

Thanks

 

[Hazaro]

Sorry if this doesn't belong here but I just experienced an issue with my PC that I built exactly 5 months ago.

Basically the computer just froze completely but there was this constant buzzing noise coming through the speakers. Couldn't do anything but hold the power button down to turn it off. I've used the computer for a few hundred hours, played a load of games, done benchmark tests so I'd say it's been broke it yet this has never happened before.

Usually my PC is connected to my monitor which is where the sound comes from but when this happened my PC was connected to my TV with sound coming out it. Also I connected new speakers today which takes audio from the motherboard instead of the GPU's hdmi.

specs:

i5-4590, 8GB corsair vengeance 1600Mhz, Gigabyte H97M-D3H, R9 290 (latest drivers). 750w evga supernova G2 psu, wd blue 1tb 7200rpm.

EDIT* just happened again. both times while i ran HWiNFO64. hmmm

Blow dust out, unplug and replug everything.
Check Temps, run some benchs again.
Run Memtest

Speaking of SSDs I have a question.

I recently built a new pc. It has two 500GB 850 EVOs.

I'm using an Nvidia card for the first time in a long time.

I've discovered Shadowplay and I really like the feature. I get no noticeable performance drop and can save clips at any time and the quality is good.

That's one of my favorite things about my Xbox One and I'm glad I can now use it on pc.

But how will this affect my SSD? It constantly writes while recording.

I plan on using this system for about 5 years. Will this kill my SSD before then?

I'd rather not have to buy an hdd unless it's absolutely necessary.

SSDs are basically fine for 10-20 Years with 20-30GB writes/day on it, I'd say you're good.

 

[Red Blaster]

lightning shorted out my old motherboard (gigabyte z68 from 2011) so i replaced it with an asorck z75 pro 3 but the network adapter continuously reads "cable unplugged". the lan port is not illuminated on my i/o panel even though the cable is in there--am i screwed?

already installed the requisite drivers from the motherboard cd and tried disabling/reinstalling, etc.

 

[V1LÆM]

Blow dust out, unplug and replug everything.
Check Temps, run some benchs again.
Run Memtest

SSDs are basically fine for 10-20 Years with 20-30GB writes/day on it, I'd say you're good.

I think I figured out what's wrong with it as I managed to replicate the issue. It happens when I either check for windows updates and/or run HWiNFO64 sensors only.

If that doesn't work then I'll try your advice

thanks

edit* not happening. i'll need to unplug everything it seems.

 

[King Gilga]

Speaking of SSDs I have a question.

I recently built a new pc. It has two 500GB 850 EVOs.

I'm using an Nvidia card for the first time in a long time.

I've discovered Shadowplay and I really like the feature. I get no noticeable performance drop and can save clips at any time and the quality is good.

That's one of my favorite things about my Xbox One and I'm glad I can now use it on pc.

But how will this affect my SSD? It constantly writes while recording.

I plan on using this system for about 5 years. Will this kill my SSD before then?

I'd rather not have to buy an hdd unless it's absolutely necessary.

Speaking of which should I have shadowplay recording to a different hardrive than the one the game is on? That way it won't impede load times or whatever?

 

[ShyGuy0504]

SSDs are basically fine for 10-20 Years with 20-30GB writes/day on it, I'd say you're good.

Ah that's good to know.

Speaking of which should I have shadowplay recording to a different hardrive than the one the game is on? That way it won't impede load times or whatever?

I record to the same drive and haven't noticed any difference in loading time at all. But that's with an SSD.

I'm not sure how it would affect performance on an hdd.

 

[Kronotech]

Ok gang, last bit of advice I need is case. I can't decide between these few. I'm going for drive bay and silence. Any opinions?

Phanteks “ Enthoo Pro Series “
Fractal Design Define R4 Cases
Antec Performance Series Case P-100
Nanoxia Deep Silence 3 Mid Tower Case

Currently building:
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Ram: G.SKILL Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400
HDD: 500GB
SDD: 500GB Samsung 850 EVO
Optical Drive: Bluray reader
Power Supply: CORSAIR CX series CX600M 600W
Monitor(s): Gonna dual wield this sucker if that matters

 

[RGM79]

Ok gang, last bit of advice I need is case. I can't decide between these few. I'm going for drive bay and silence. Any opinions?

Phanteks “ Enthoo Pro Series “
Fractal Design Define R4 Cases
Antec Performance Series Case P-100
Nanoxia Deep Silence 3 Mid Tower Case

Currently building:
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Ram: G.SKILL Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400
HDD: 500GB
SDD: 500GB Samsung 850 EVO
Optical Drive: Bluray reader
Power Supply: CORSAIR CX series CX600M 600W
Monitor(s): Gonna dual wield this sucker if that matters

The Define R5 is great if you can go for it, otherwise the Define R4 is a bit cheaper while also offering noise dampening.

Perhaps you should look for another PSU? The CX600M is alright.. but only alright. There are better choices for your money. I see the CX600M is going for about $60 after rebate right now, for about the same price also after rebate you could go with an EVGA Supernova B2 750 watt semi-modular model for higher wattage and better build quality, or maybe the EVGA Supernova GS 550/650 watt models for greater quality, silent fan mode, and full modular design.

 

[Athreous]

Not a bad build, but there are some better choices you can make:

• High speed RAM is available for cheaper (1866/2133/2400MHz)
• Kingston V300 is a poorly performing SSD that was subject to shady bait-and-switch parts changing
• Corsair 300R is available at the same price as the 200R
• Do you really need a DVD drive?

I'd go with a build like this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Extreme3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($97.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Apotop 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba Product SeriesT01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.55 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R7 265 2GB Video Card ($112.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $728.47
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-21 14:14 EDT-0400

The changes I made were to substitute in faster RAM, a larger and higher quality SSD, stronger graphics card, a better case, and a cheaper but still highly rated power supply. It costs a little bit more than your original build.

Now, I don't know exactly how much you want to keep the build under $800, but if you were to go right up to that limit, you could get an R9 280 and it'd serve you well for the next while. Given that the GTX 980 Ti just came out not too long ago and is still in short supply and if you're waiting for someone to hand it down to you after they upgrade, you might be waiting for a while. If you want 60FPS on medium and maybe high settings, I recommend you go for an R9 280 or GTX 960.



If you're talking about the overclockable K-type processors (i5 4690K, i7 4790K), Z97 motherboards are recommended.

if I don't plan to overclock, can I still reach 60 fps on VP2?

Also, is it better to get a non k processor if I wont OC?

 

[ricki42]

Ok gang, last bit of advice I need is case. I can't decide between these few. I'm going for drive bay and silence. Any opinions?

Phanteks “ Enthoo Pro Series “
Fractal Design Define R4 Cases
Antec Performance Series Case P-100
Nanoxia Deep Silence 3 Mid Tower Case

I have the R4, and I'm quite happy with it.
One thing to consider maybe, depending on where you place the case: On the Define R4 the front panel USB connectors face upwards, on the Enthoo Pro they are under a lid facing forward. I like having them facing upward and out of the way, but it depends on your setup.

 

[Kronotech]

The Define R5 is great if you can go for it, otherwise the Define R4 is a bit cheaper while also offering noise dampening.

Perhaps you should look for another PSU? The CX600M is alright.. but only alright. There are better choices for your money. I see the CX600M is going for about $60 after rebate right now, for about the same price also after rebate you could go with an EVGA Supernova B2 750 watt semi-modular model for higher wattage and better build quality, or maybe the EVGA Supernova GS 550/650 watt models for greater quality, silent fan mode, and full modular design.

I thought the Define R5 was on my list at one point... can't remember why I removed it but it looks like a great case too.

PSU I'm definitely open to. At this time, the rebate window for the EVGA 750w ends on the 29th of this month so I don't know that I would get it in time. Or is the rebate window based on purchase date? A lot of the rebates end at the end of the month.

I have the R4, and I'm quite happy with it.
One thing to consider maybe, depending on where you place the case: On the Define R4 the front panel USB connectors face upwards, on the Enthoo Pro they are under a lid facing forward. I like having them facing upward and out of the way, but it depends on your setup.

Ah didn't think about that. Good to know, thanks.

 

[King Gilga]

Is there any real difference between these this EVGA Super NOVA G2 and this XFX PRO Black Edition PSU? They're both fully modular, 850w, gold, and in the Tier 1 of the tomsharder psu hierarchy thing.

I'm totally torn on which one to get, for an air 240.

 

[BolognaOni]

if I don't plan to overclock, can I still reach 60 fps on VP2?

Also, is it better to get a non k processor if I wont OC?

Looks like you should generally be able to hit 60 fps: http://forums.pcsx2.net/Thread-Absolute-best-CPU-for-emulating-PS2

The k-versions of the CPU are unlocked for over clocking. If you have absolutely no interest in that, then it will save you some money to not get one (and you can buy a less expensive MB too).

 

[mr_chun]

Not a bad build, but there are some better choices you can make:

• High speed RAM is available for cheaper (1866/2133/2400MHz)
• Kingston V300 is a poorly performing SSD that was subject to shady bait-and-switch parts changing
• Corsair 300R is available at the same price as the 200R
• Do you really need a DVD drive?

The changes I made were to substitute in faster RAM, a larger and higher quality SSD, stronger graphics card, a better case, and a cheaper but still highly rated power supply. It costs a little bit more than your original build.

Thanks for the advice! Nice catch on the case. And yeah I do need a DVD drive. My OS is on a disc, and my job necessitates that I burn CDs and DVDs often. Easier to just have it built-in.


EDIT: How do we feel about Samsung SSD? I've actually got a little wiggle room in the budget.

 

[OraleeWey]

Every time I press Caps Lock (mostly by accident), while playing a game my screen goes in to windowed mode. I think it is because an on screen display comes on my screen to let me know if caps lock is on or off. Does anyone know how to turn that notification off?

Edit: Never mind, I think I found it.

 

[kennah]

Every time I press Caps Lock (mostly by accident), while playing a game my screen goes in to windowed mode. I think it is because an on screen display comes on my screen to let me know if caps lock is on or off. Does anyone know how to turn that notification off?

Edit: Never mind, I think I found it.

 

[RGM79]

if I don't plan to overclock, can I still reach 60 fps on VP2?

Also, is it better to get a non k processor if I wont OC?

I think it's still possible, yes. If you go with a non-overclocking processor you'll save a bit of money, but if you don't mind reading up a bit and trying, then we usually recommend going for processors with the ability to overclock. They tend to have a longer useful life and you won't need to upgrade/replace the processor as soon. You don't have to overclock right away, but having the option open to you when you might want to do it a few years later is nice to have. Resale value of overclockable processors is usually better as well, if you ever find yourself in that spot.

I thought the Define R5 was on my list at one point... can't remember why I removed it but it looks like a great case too.

PSU I'm definitely open to. At this time, the rebate window for the EVGA 750w ends on the 29th of this month so I don't know that I would get it in time. Or is the rebate window based on purchase date? A lot of the rebates end at the end of the month.

The Define R5 has a more modular interior where you can take out or move parts to different spots, and enhanced water cooler radiator support. If you don't need any of that then you can go with the slightly cheaper R4, but I think the R5 is well worth the extra $10.

Mail in rebates are almost always based on the purchase date. They usually require you to submit proof of purchase (a receipt or invoice) and that will have the order/purchase date on it.

Is there any real difference between these this EVGA Super NOVA G2 and this XFX PRO Black Edition PSU? They're both fully modular, 850w, gold, and in the Tier 1 of the tomsharder psu hierarchy thing.

I'm totally torn on which one to get, for an air 240.

Both are excellent power supplies. The EVGA is built by Super Flower and the XFX is built by Seasonic. Super Flower and Seasonic are the two best power supply manufacturers there are. You won't really notice the differences between them.. but the G2 does have a 10 year warranty whereas the XFX has a 5 year warranty. I think I'd go for the G2.

Thanks for the advice! Nice catch on the case. And yeah I do need a DVD drive. My OS is on a disc, and my job necessitates that I burn CDs and DVDs often. Easier to just have it built-in.

EDIT: How do we feel about Samsung SSD? I've actually got a little wiggle room in the budget.

Samsung's 850 series are quite good. The 850 Evo has good price-to-performance ratio, while the 850 Pro is the luxury model that is very nice but probably not worth it unless you need it for a specific reason. Performance-wise I think the 850 Evo slightly beats the BX100, but either will serve you well and you won't be able to measure the difference anyway. Those two are the most common SSDs I end up recommending.

 

[Mystic654]

Anyone know if Windows 10 will be released on DVD at some point or is USB the only Non-Digital edition Windows 10 is come out on? Amazon and NewEgg only have Digital Edition and USB, Nothing else.

 

[OraleeWey]

LOL

 

[Felix Lighter]

There is a worse scenario. At some point Microsoft changed their url format, so there are a ton of support forum threads that have broken links to Microsoft articles. It goes something like this:

I am currently dealing with the same exact issue that Felix Lighter will run into in 5 years. Can anyone possibly help me?

Sure try http://www.microsoft.com/brokenasslink

Sure try http://www.microsoft.com/brokenasslink

Wow, thanks! I never would have possibly thought of that if it wasn't for that perfectly worded article about this exact issue. It was so easy to fix.

 

[King Gilga]

Both are excellent power supplies. The EVGA is built by Super Flower and the XFX is built by Seasonic. Super Flower and Seasonic are the two best power supply manufacturers there are. You won't really notice the differences between them.. but the G2 does have a 10 year warranty whereas the XFX has a 5 year warranty. I think I'd go for the G2.

Thanks as always mate, that cinches it for the evga, IMO it looks a bit nicer too.

 

[The Llama]

Terrible advice. Microsoft's scores by far the worst of any antivirus software. Secondly, even trusted sites could unknowningly install malware, using "common sense" is not smart plan.

As to answering the question, Avast gets good reviews for being free.

Honestly I've never used an anti-virus program and have never had a virus problem ever. ¯\_(&#12484_/¯ I don't think there's anything wrong with the "common sense" approach, especially if you're smart enough to build your own computer lol.

 

[Hazaro]

Honestly I've never used an anti-virus program and have never had a virus problem ever. ¯\_(&#12484_/¯ I don't think there's anything wrong with the "common sense" approach, especially if you're smart enough to build your own computer lol.

Java and Flash are primary vulnerabilities so I don't think it's enough. Especially with the recent zero-day Flash exploits (Update to 18.0.0.209 or .210 immediately if you haven't) and shit like Firefox disabling Flash by default and last 2 versions of Chrome disabling Java plugins.

 

[j-wood]

I would like to officially recommend the perrix xxl mousepad. Best pad I've ever owned, the ripper was shit for me.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GB0IFXM/?tag=neogaf0e-20

 

[Arex]

I have 4x4GB RAM for my x99 system right now.
If in the future I want to increase them, is adding another 4x4GB better than adding 2x8GB or maybe even 2x4GB? Not really sure how the dual/quad channel thing works on x99 @_@

 

[otakuderek]

Looking for some help on a new build.

[Basic Desktop Questions]

• Your Current Specs: MacBook Pro...
• Budget: $1,300; USA
• Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming - 5, Gaming -5, Emulation (PS2/Wii) - 1, Video Editing - 2, Streaming games in HD - 1, 3D/Model work (and what program) - 1, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) - 5.
• Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? Are you going to upgrade later? Are you buying a new monitor? - New Monitor, haven't decided which one. Advice? Just need one 24in. 144 Hz maybe?
• List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 120? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you? - CounterStrike GO, Insurgency, Witcher 1-3, Civilization, Fallout 3/New Vegas at 60 fps.
• Looking to reuse any parts?: DVD burner, keyboard, mouse
• When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? Saturday, July 25th.
• Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!) - Yes if possible.

This is what I have created so far. I'm going to get a case on the fly at MicroCenter along with the other items. Monitor price doesn't need to be included in price. I would appreciate any feedback!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($238.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($31.24 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming 3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($120.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($138.46 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($342.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1027.64
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-21 21:41 EDT-0400

 

[Hazaro]

I have 4x4GB RAM for my x99 system right now.
If in the future I want to increase them, is adding another 4x4GB better than adding 2x8GB or maybe even 2x4GB? Not really sure how the dual/quad channel thing works on x99 @_@

4x4 for dat quad
Might possibly limit a top end OC though, but usually not a concern.

Looking for some help on a new build.

[Basic Desktop Questions]

• Your Current Specs: MacBook Pro...
• Budget: $1,300; USA
• Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming - 5, Gaming -5, Emulation (PS2/Wii) - 1, Video Editing - 2, Streaming games in HD - 1, 3D/Model work (and what program) - 1, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) - 5.
• Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? Are you going to upgrade later? Are you buying a new monitor? - New Monitor, haven't decided which one. Advice? Just need one 24in. 144 Hz maybe?
• List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 120? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you? - CounterStrike GO, Insurgency, Witcher 1-3, Civilization, Fallout 3/New Vegas at 60 fps.
• Looking to reuse any parts?: DVD burner, keyboard, mouse
• When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? Saturday, July 25th.
• Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!) - Yes if possible.

This is what I have created so far. I'm going to get a case on the fly at MicroCenter along with the other items. Monitor price doesn't need to be included in price. I would appreciate any feedback!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($238.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($31.24 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming 3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($120.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($138.46 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($342.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1027.64
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-21 21:41 EDT-0400

Looks good, I'd drop the 850 Pro for an EVO or BX100. Low profile RAM over those Corsairs (RAM Heatsinks do nothing).

 

[Handal]

Guys, anyone have some reviews on the ASRock X99M Extreme4 mobo ?

There's currently a sale right now, I can have it for around 150$ CAD with mail-in rebate.
It's REALLY tempting me to grab it and build a x99 system. But I don't know if it's a good motherboard.

 

[otakuderek]

Looks good, I'd drop the 850 Pro for an EVO or BX100. Low profile RAM over those Corsairs (RAM Heatsinks do nothing).

I saw a few other SSDs for sale at MicroCenter and was going to check those out on the spot. Any brand to avoid? I couldn't find any specific low profile RAM on PCPartPicker. I can see what the store has though.

 

[Hazaro]

I saw a few other SSDs for sale at MicroCenter and was going to check those out on the spot. Any brand to avoid? I couldn't find any specific low profile RAM on PCPartPicker. I can see what the store has though.

I'd stick with Crucial/Samsung (not 840 EVO) and there's another brand like BX100 with same controlled, but can't remember what it is.
Low Profile is just without giant heatsinks. All memory is lifetime warranty so just get 1.5V/1866Mhz+ in what color you like