If you want to overclock youll need Z97. Why not go mATX or ITX if you wont be running dual GPUs?
I do all you are wanting to do from an ITX box with a GTX 970 and i7 3770 4.2Ghz.
For ATX, Z97-A is good since its one of the few with Intel NIC.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
If you want to overclock youll need Z97. Why not go mATX or ITX if you wont be running dual GPUs?
I do all you are wanting to do from an ITX box with a GTX 970 and i7 3770 4.2Ghz.
For ATX, Z97-A is good since its one of the few with Intel NIC.
Snakethesniper
Member
But in this case shouldn't it be always on even if the pc is turned off?
Not necessarily, could just be an LED which is powered up for a short period whilst they card prepares in standby, and then switches off.
All of this stuff is nothing to be concerned about.
King Gilga
Member
I need a headphone jack extender for a headset that uses one of those mic and sound in the same jack things.
Do I need a specific type of extension cable to get both the mic/sound? Or do all of them work?
Do I need a specific type of extension cable to get both the mic/sound? Or do all of them work?
StarlordDial
Member
I sure hope so man ;_; .. NJ to HI? I'm scared ;_;
Snakethesniper
Member
ok, because the led is on when the PC is powered on, and I heard guys that says that turning on/off the PSU or inserting the plug while the PSU is "on" is dangerous and should be avoided
Hey guys, haven't built a computer in say 10 years, so I've been slow to figure out what to get. I'm looking to keep my budget at $1000 if possible.
Thoughts on this build? Looking to do gaming at medium-high settings if possible at 1080P, nothing too crazy.
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($228.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC12DX_BK 68.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Extreme3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($94.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: *Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($38.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: *A-Data Premier SP610 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: *Hitachi Ultrastar 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($44.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($338.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $949.92
Thoughts on this build? Looking to do gaming at medium-high settings if possible at 1080P, nothing too crazy.
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($228.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC12DX_BK 68.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Extreme3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($94.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: *Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($38.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: *A-Data Premier SP610 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: *Hitachi Ultrastar 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($44.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($338.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $949.92
No point in a better cooler than a 212 besides looks for most.
Swap hdd, to a blue, that one is 7 years old
SSD to the op ones
2x4gb for RAM
Grab the PSU now while it's on sale
Pretty sure the R9 380 is better in almost every way to the GTX 960.
Vestal
Junior Member
Hey PC Gaf need some suggestions.
currently want to upgrade my Video Card and Monitor since the vid card is a 660 GTX Ti(pretty old) and want to go up from 24inch to a 27 inch.
My current setup is a 2600k with 16GB ram a pair of SSDS and 2 2TBs on a raid1 config.
Anyways I was leaning towards the 970GTX SSC for 300 bucks, but any reason to go up to the FTW+ from EVGA for another 60 bucks?
I am interested in going the G-Sync monitor route and would love to hear suggestions on that.
Thanks GAF
currently want to upgrade my Video Card and Monitor since the vid card is a 660 GTX Ti(pretty old) and want to go up from 24inch to a 27 inch.
My current setup is a 2600k with 16GB ram a pair of SSDS and 2 2TBs on a raid1 config.
Anyways I was leaning towards the 970GTX SSC for 300 bucks, but any reason to go up to the FTW+ from EVGA for another 60 bucks?
I am interested in going the G-Sync monitor route and would love to hear suggestions on that.
Thanks GAF
Subtervotion
Member
What makes it better?
I was thinking about going with nvidia this time around. That's why I've mostly been looking at gtx 960.
Parmadillo Marshmallow
Member
I'm in the market for a $200 video card too, and all of the benchmarks peg the R9 380 a few FPS higher than the GTX 960. I'm going with the 4GB version, I think they're $220. Probably order later this week.
Look at tests on Tom's hardware, guru 3d, etc.
SneakyStephan
Banned
I'm quite confused about overclocking (or rather the results and this intel boost stuff I've never dealt with before)
http://www.anandtech.com/show/8227/devils-canyon-review-intel-core-i7-4790k-and-i5-4690k/2 says i5 4690k's default auto voltage should be 1.121v, but mine autos to 1.034v
I used prime 95 yesterday at stock and (with the boost clock at 3.9ghz) my temps would go up to 49-52 degrees in hwinfo and stabilise at that.
Now at the same exact voltage with a 4ghz base clock (but it doesn't seem to use turboboost at all anymore now, is that normal? I thought it would attempt to boost higher) so basically a 100mhz increase over the old boost clock (and again at the same voltage) my temps went up to 60-67 on each core (before evening out at 55-62 ish eventually).
What's with the large temp increase at the same voltage and basically the same clockspeed?
Additional things:
My bios seems to default my ram (ddr3 rated at 1600mhz) to 1333mhz, should I set it to 1600?
What prog should I use to monitor fanspeed? (I can't find it in hwinfo maybe i'm just blind)
What on earth is the XMP extreme memory profile setting?
Anyhow I guess I'll run at 4ghz for a few days (and so some more stress testing ) before I start upping voltage and clocking higher (I'd like to get a 4.4ghz clockspeed without having to up voltage too much so I can keep the pc quiet) or messing with the ram speed.
Just confused as hell by these temps (though they are also still way lower than the stock temps reported in that anandtech review, probably because of the much lower default voltage)
@ the lower voltage of my cpu vs the review, is there a new stepping for the 4690k or something or do I just have a particularly good sample (that apparently only needs 1V at 3.5ghz, probably less since it seems more than happy with 1.04 at 4ghz.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/8227/devils-canyon-review-intel-core-i7-4790k-and-i5-4690k/2 says i5 4690k's default auto voltage should be 1.121v, but mine autos to 1.034v
I used prime 95 yesterday at stock and (with the boost clock at 3.9ghz) my temps would go up to 49-52 degrees in hwinfo and stabilise at that.
Now at the same exact voltage with a 4ghz base clock (but it doesn't seem to use turboboost at all anymore now, is that normal? I thought it would attempt to boost higher) so basically a 100mhz increase over the old boost clock (and again at the same voltage) my temps went up to 60-67 on each core (before evening out at 55-62 ish eventually).
What's with the large temp increase at the same voltage and basically the same clockspeed?
Additional things:
My bios seems to default my ram (ddr3 rated at 1600mhz) to 1333mhz, should I set it to 1600?
What prog should I use to monitor fanspeed? (I can't find it in hwinfo maybe i'm just blind)
What on earth is the XMP extreme memory profile setting?
Anyhow I guess I'll run at 4ghz for a few days (and so some more stress testing ) before I start upping voltage and clocking higher (I'd like to get a 4.4ghz clockspeed without having to up voltage too much so I can keep the pc quiet) or messing with the ram speed.
Just confused as hell by these temps (though they are also still way lower than the stock temps reported in that anandtech review, probably because of the much lower default voltage)
@ the lower voltage of my cpu vs the review, is there a new stepping for the 4690k or something or do I just have a particularly good sample (that apparently only needs 1V at 3.5ghz, probably less since it seems more than happy with 1.04 at 4ghz.
If you look at benchmarks it just looks to be faster in everything. Better hardware at the same price point.
You want to set the ram to XMP. It's the correct settings for the ram.
SneakyStephan
Banned
I see, that answers 2 questions at once then.
Well that's a convenient option that did not exist last time I built a pc.
Subtervotion
Member
I'm about to buy my parts. Should I get a cpu cooler? (i7)
Atraveller
Banned
If you don't like fan noise, then sure.
Need some PC help guys to see if you can explain why this happened.
So just to explain where I got the parts. I bought a used Asus Maximus Vi Formula cheap locally. I didnt get to put it together until yesterday. I also bought an i7 4790k separately which I installed in it.
Here comes the scary part. I though my CPU was DOA or maybe the dude who sold me the board locally screwed me. Well let me explain what happened. I just plugged in the mobo to a PSU, monitor and USB KB. Thats it.
I would try to boot the mobo but it wouldnt boot!! The "Code" area kept cycling through a bunch of numbers. I couldnt look up the issue because it just went through alot which seemed random. Not only that but the CPU and DRAM LED kept turning on/off!! (me thinking CPU was dead or Mobo)
So 95% of the time, it would do this. Once in a while it would boot to BIOS. So just now it did boot into bios. I went to the BOOT area and changed "Fast Boot" to disabled. I think this should be on by default. Now it seems its fine! Finally. Glad nothing is dead!
Now my question is, is this needed other than to, I guess, have a faster boot time? Wouldnt an SSD help in this case? (which I will have for OS) And the other weird thing is that the Formula Vi has an actual switch to enable/disable Fast Boot on the fly. Do you think being enabled in BIOS but being OFF on the mobo cause this instability? (It was like this when I got it, I didnt touch it.)
Just trying to understand what was causing this spazzing out of the Mobo!!
So just to explain where I got the parts. I bought a used Asus Maximus Vi Formula cheap locally. I didnt get to put it together until yesterday. I also bought an i7 4790k separately which I installed in it.
Here comes the scary part. I though my CPU was DOA or maybe the dude who sold me the board locally screwed me. Well let me explain what happened. I just plugged in the mobo to a PSU, monitor and USB KB. Thats it.
I would try to boot the mobo but it wouldnt boot!! The "Code" area kept cycling through a bunch of numbers. I couldnt look up the issue because it just went through alot which seemed random. Not only that but the CPU and DRAM LED kept turning on/off!! (me thinking CPU was dead or Mobo)
So 95% of the time, it would do this. Once in a while it would boot to BIOS. So just now it did boot into bios. I went to the BOOT area and changed "Fast Boot" to disabled. I think this should be on by default. Now it seems its fine! Finally. Glad nothing is dead!
Now my question is, is this needed other than to, I guess, have a faster boot time? Wouldnt an SSD help in this case? (which I will have for OS) And the other weird thing is that the Formula Vi has an actual switch to enable/disable Fast Boot on the fly. Do you think being enabled in BIOS but being OFF on the mobo cause this instability? (It was like this when I got it, I didnt touch it.)
Just trying to understand what was causing this spazzing out of the Mobo!!
4790k? Yes, the stock cooler is awful. 212 Evo, TX3, CNPS5X are all pretty good budget coolers.
Did you clear your BIOS before doing anything else? There could've been some other settings in the board that were causing issues for you.
well last week i said that i didnt wanted to go all the way and upgrade everything.
today, im sitting here with my new computer.
I7 4970k
Asrock h97m Pro4
GTX 980
8GB Ram 2444 MHZ
the thing is, im thinking of completely futureproofing my rig, and add another 980, im going to change the motherboard because this one doesnt support SLI.
what motherboard would you reccomend, and would my PSU an 750W EVGA Bronze Modular PSU, be enought for those two cards?
today, im sitting here with my new computer.
I7 4970k
Asrock h97m Pro4
GTX 980
8GB Ram 2444 MHZ
the thing is, im thinking of completely futureproofing my rig, and add another 980, im going to change the motherboard because this one doesnt support SLI.
what motherboard would you reccomend, and would my PSU an 750W EVGA Bronze Modular PSU, be enought for those two cards?
The consensus is one video card is better than 2. You could buy one 980 ti for example and add another one in the future when you need it. Plus it'll be cheaper.
I did clear CMOS with that Asus back button feature. The next thing I read that I should try to do was a "Full Clear Cmos" or something. Like remove the circle battery for like a day. The only issue was that the mobo Formula Vi has a thermal armor thing and the battery is underneath it. I was lazy yesterday and didnt want to unscrew the whole thing. I did it once to do a general clean up.
So far its booting fine. So I think all I had to do was set the Mobo's Fast Boot switch to ON position although I think I did try it before. (remember the default BIOS setting had it ON before I changed it to OFF) So now they match on the BIOS and MOBO.
Subtervotion
Member
Went with the 212 Evo.
All purchases done.
-i7 4790K
-MSI Z97-G45
-Asus GTX 960 4gb
-212 Evo
Thanks to everyone who helped me decide.
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/fJHxvK
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($228.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H75 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z97I-PLUS Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($152.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($88.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital WD Green 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($72.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($358.89 @ Amazon)
Case: Inwin 901 Mini ITX Tower Case ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1097.83
Thoughts? Should I get the GeForce GTX 970 GV-N970WF3OC or GV-N970G1 GAMING Video card?
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($228.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H75 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z97I-PLUS Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($152.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($88.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital WD Green 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($72.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($358.89 @ Amazon)
Case: Inwin 901 Mini ITX Tower Case ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1097.83
Thoughts? Should I get the GeForce GTX 970 GV-N970WF3OC or GV-N970G1 GAMING Video card?
I would get the G1 for the backplate and higher clocks. I'd also get a 7200 rpm hard drive if you're getting a mechanical drive.
so what you mean is, i'll be better with a TI than with two 980's?
can you really expand on that, just for curiosity.
BolognaOni
Member
Adding a second video card is inherently inefficient, in that you don't get 2x the performance of a single card due to the overhead associated with the two cards coordinating. Also, stuff like overclocking becomes more difficult. For this reason, it's generally better to stick with a single card up to the top of the line.
Specifically from a benchmark perspective, I'm not sure if a single ti or 2x 980s is better, but i doubt the sli 980s have any significant advantage. And from a cost/complexity and general ease of use standpoint, the 980ti is a much better option.
Coulomb_Barrier
Member
Get the 5820k. 6-cores will be lovely for DX12/Vulkan games, and cards like 980 Ti in SLI and future cards will run better with a faster X99 CPU.
You need this.
http://www.mayflash.com/products/nintendowiiu/w009.html
Then it's wireless Wii U perfection. My best gaming related purchase of 2014. I even played some PS3 with it
SneakyStephan
Banned
Anyone? I know what the xmp is now but still wondering about the temps and voltage
Also, SLI support and performance scaling is dependent on how well the developers have coded the game, and Nvidia-provided graphics driver updates and SLI profiles. Not every game works equally as well for SLI so some research would have to be done as to whether the games you want to play will work well with it. Flickering textures and things like that are a common issue with games that don't play well with multiple graphics cards. Generally speaking SLI support for most games isn't bad and games that don't feature proper SLI support on release can sometimes have that fixed within a few weeks or months of game launch.
And don't forget that SLI inherently has higher wattage consumption.
Depends. If you're doing an in-place upgrade, all of your programs and files will remain intact, and so should the program you're using to overclock the GPU. Generally speaking a clean install is preferred, so if you do that then you'll probably need to set the settings again.
Thank you Sir. 980 TI it is then.
Yeah...but your in Hawaii
I'm sure there are plenty of ways to relax and ease your fears
Skyfireblaze
Member
Quick question, with the release of Windows 10 I want to buy a SSD, are any of these good as a pure system drive?
128 GB SanDisk X110 SD6SB1M-128G-1022i SATA III
128 GB SanDisk Solid State Drive Retail SDSSDP-128G-G25 SATA III
120 GB Kingston SSDNow V300 Retail SV300S37A/120G SATA III
128 GB Intenso Top Retail 3812430 SATA III
128 GB Transcend TS128GSSD340 Retail TS128GSSD340 SATA III
120 GB SanDisk Plus Retail SDSSDA-120G-G25 SATA III
I could get any of these for fairly cheap and I don't need instantaneous speeds, really just something snappy and reliable for Windows and daily programs would be enough.
Thanks for help in advance!
128 GB SanDisk X110 SD6SB1M-128G-1022i SATA III
128 GB SanDisk Solid State Drive Retail SDSSDP-128G-G25 SATA III
120 GB Kingston SSDNow V300 Retail SV300S37A/120G SATA III
128 GB Intenso Top Retail 3812430 SATA III
128 GB Transcend TS128GSSD340 Retail TS128GSSD340 SATA III
120 GB SanDisk Plus Retail SDSSDA-120G-G25 SATA III
I could get any of these for fairly cheap and I don't need instantaneous speeds, really just something snappy and reliable for Windows and daily programs would be enough.
Thanks for help in advance!
StarlordDial
Member
LolYeah...but your in Hawaii
I'm sure there are plenty of ways to relax and ease your fears
Welp ... The Day has finally come...
Does anyone know If i can call fedex(express) and maybe ask them/persuade them to hopefully get my deliveries today a bit eary I have to wait it out since I'm not the only one that has a package inside that truck ?
Not really asking for help regarding new parts, but upgrading to Win10. So I have an ASRock P67 Extreme4 Gen3 mobo. I can't find any Windows 10 drivers on their webpage, which is disheartening. I'm on Windows 8.1 and there aren't any 8.1 drivers either, just 8. Is there any place else where ASRock would upload their Win10 drivers besides their main webpage? Or did they just stop support after 8 for a motherboard that isn't really even that old? :/
Rebel Leader
THE POWER OF BUTTERSCOTCH BOTTOMS
Problem still occurs so the HDD was not the problem:
but doesn't say windows was shut down unexpectedly in action repot like it used to on the HDD
Does anyone know what the hell is going on?
Been having this problem for about a year but nothing but that problem has occurred . Help.
Should I try a new MB?
but doesn't say windows was shut down unexpectedly in action repot like it used to on the HDD
Does anyone know what the hell is going on?
Been having this problem for about a year but nothing but that problem has occurred . Help.
Those that I have not tried to replace are the CPU, MB, case and PSU
Should I try a new MB?
Coulomb_Barrier
Member
Anyone know when you'll be allowed to upgrade to Windows 10 if you live in the UK? Is the upgrade icon going to appear in your desktop tray worldwide simultaneously on release day?
I've signed up to the upgrade info via email thing, but no info.
I've signed up to the upgrade info via email thing, but no info.
Hey guys/gals, could use some help. Just assembled my new PC, but I'm getting the following message upon start up: reboot and select proper boot device. It's not booting into the BIOS and isn't giving me the option to do so either. The strange thing is that it will boot into BIOS just fine once I disconnect the power to my SSD (my only storage device).
What could be the problem here?
What could be the problem here?
Probably a dumb question, but is this 5 year old i7 better than this i5? I'm buying a friend's PC and just remembered my older PC (RIP) has that i7 which is salvageable.
Are you sure it doesn't get into the BIOS? The delay might just be set to something very short. Check the settings in your BIOS. What do you have installed on the SSD? You could also try booting a Live CD/USB.
These have different sockets, so depending on the motherboard in your friend's PC, you'd have to replace that as well. That being said, I think the 4690k is better, higher frequency, newer chipset, lower TDP. Some games can take advantage of the 8 threads of the 875k, but otherwise the 4690k is better.
Parmadillo Marshmallow
Member
Usually there is a key that will get you into the BIOS, depending on the mobo/BIOS. Have you tried spamming Del, or any of the F keys, on startup to see if it goes to the BIOS?
You were right, it threw me out of the bootup screen and into checking for a disk before I could even see my options. I pressed Del repeatedly and I'm in BIOS. Feeling really dumb, but thanks so much! I was worried there for a sec.
- Status