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[ShaiKhulud]

A bit off-topic.

HWinfo64 sometime reports my PCH temperature to be extremely high, 169 Celsius (336F) just now.

Everything else normal, I suspect false reading. Thoughts?

Or clocking tree receiving too high voltage. I've heard of this problems in my line of work.

 

[inpired_1ne]

Does your budget include monitors? Assuming without monitors and US dollars, $1500 is more than enough for a great performing Z97 system with a midrange processor with high end graphics card(s), while $2000-2500 nets you a high end X99 system system with high end processors and graphics cards.

The Z97 will last you 3-4 years, possibly longer. The X99 system can last you up to 6 or more years - we have people here with old X58 systems (precursor to X99) that finally want to upgrade to a completely new PC, and their computers are 6-7 years old.

Ideally, you will want to purchase most of the parts around the same time. Certain things like cases and monitors won't really matter as they don't affect performance or don't really rely on other parts, but all the internal parts such as CPU, GPU, motherboard, RAM, power supply, etc should be purchased at around the same time. You don't want warranty or return periods to run out early and then found out you bought a faulty or defective part months ago that the retailer may not be willing to exchange.

It might be better to wait anyway - there aren't many sales around this time, there are two new Intel desktop processor lines due to come out in September (Broadwell and Skylake, the latter being incompatible with existing motherboards), and I feel that Black Friday and Christmas season provide a nice 2 month shopping period for better than average deals, although there are still good deals throughout the year. You never know when companies may release revised or improved motherboard or graphics card models, either.

The budget was not including monitors but I figured it would be around 2500 for the build and I added more for just in case shit happens. I don't mind spending the money and going with the x99 with the higher end stuff if it means I won't have to upgrade the following year. That's the one thing I'm worried about that if I purchase something tomorrow then something new will come out the next day. If I keep thinking like that I'll never purchase anything lol. Thanks for the input anymore is welcomed.

I was just reading benchmarks on anandtech between the Titan and 980. Seems like the 980 out performs the Titan at half the price. So would 980sli setup be a better purchase than a Titan?

 

[RGM79]

Or clocking tree receiving too high voltage. I've heard of this problems in my line of work.

It'd be amazing if 170 degrees Celsius was possible. That's already within range of melting some types of solder within seconds.

 

[ShaiKhulud]

It'd be amazing if 170 degrees Celsius was possible. That's already within range of melting some types of solder within seconds.

It might be power spike that causes the indicator to bug the shit off.

Example. Father's Packard Bell desktop said that south bridge is 102C. In reality it was circuit problem on the motherboard. Power-related stuff i mean.

Worth investigating anyway.

 

[RGM79]

It might be power spike that causes the indicator to bug the shit off.

Example. Father's Packard Bell desktop said that south bridge is 102C. In reality it was circuit problem on the motherboard. Power-related stuff i mean.

Worth investigating anyway.

Ah, that makes sense. Many things I still don't know about electronics.

 

[Femmeworth]

Powerline networking still has some security, it just isn't very robust due to not being as popular as wifi. Breaking powerline security requires that the person wanting to break into your network knows you're using powerline networking and has physical access to a local power outlet. How local depends on how the building's power is wired - depending on that factor, your building might have isolated sections that even adaptors in the same building cannot connect to from each other, or on the other extreme someone in the same neighbourhood could even connect to your network from a different building altogether.

If you value your privacy and live in some kind of shared building like a dorm, apartment, or etc, then I suppose it's not for you. On the other hand, WPA2 is not totally secure either, wifi being more popular WPA2 cracking tools are easier to find and use whereas powerline networking isn't seen very often so powerline networking has a degree of security through anonymity.

I don't really have much reason to me concerned where I live. Maybe I'll try it out.

 

[_13500]

Are you sure you want the H110i? You could save some money and just get a 240mm radiator. What CPU are you overclocking with?

i7-5960X

I'm just looking for any M-ATX case which fits the Hydro Series H110i GT (140mm x 322mm x 27mm)

 

[Vulcano's assistant]

i7-5960X

damn, packing heat, brother.

 

[LilJoka]

Before trying anything like that, I would prefer to find some way to run a diagnostic on the entire PC at once, so I can find out exactly what the problem is that way.

There is no such thing. There is no need to build a new PC...

Update the crucial m4 SSD as advised and i would also update the bios. And reset bios to defaults.

Next thing use Malwarebytes antimalware to scan for any nasties.

Do you have any other miscellaneous peripherals/accessories connected? Wifi card/game controllers/sound card etc?

 

[RGM79]

i7-5960X

I'm just looking for any M-ATX case which fits the Hydro Series H110i GT (140mm x 322mm x 27mm)

This is all there is. Generally, mATX and 280mm radiator mounts do not mix, it's a rare combination.

Instead of the Corsair H110i GT, may I recommend the NZXT Kraken X61 ($130) instead which costs the same amount of money but is already available now? It's also a 280mm radiator, but I'm almost sure it will perform better than the H110i GT. The H110i GT likely just adds fan monitoring and control, it is probably just the same radiator as the two year old H110 radiator.

Otherwise the Swiftech H220-X or H240-X is better than both, I hear. Those models are difficult to buy, though. NCIXUS has them only on 3-6 week special order wait.

http://www.ncix.com/detail/swiftech-h220-x-all-in-one-liquid-cooling-6b-93547.htm
http://www.ncix.com/detail/swiftech-h240-x-all-in-one-liquid-cooling-6d-102715.htm

X99 and mATX is also a rare combination, although I suppose you have already picked an mATX X99 motherboard if you're set on getting a 5960X with an mATX case.

 

[OriginofHysteria]

So I'm rebuilding a PC from scratch. Question though, does it matter if I go bronze or gold on my power supply?

 

[LilJoka]

So I'm rebuilding a PC from scratch. Question though, does it matter if I go bronze or gold on my power supply?

Well depends what matters to you. A gold PSU is more efficient so will draw less electricity from the wall for the same output wattage of a bronze PSU. That means it'll last longer and run cooler. They are generally higher quality units with better power regulation which is helpful for Overclocking.
I would rather buy a gold 550W over a bronze 650W if both had their stated wattage produced by the 12v rail.

 

[OriginofHysteria]

Well depends what matters to you. A gold PSU is more efficient so will draw less electricity from the wall for the same output wattage of a bronze PSU. That means it'll last longer and run cooler. They are generally higher quality units with better power regulation which is helpful for Overclocking.
I would rather buy a gold 550W over a bronze 650W if both had their stated wattage produced by the 12v rail.

Well I am getting a 4690k so OC'ing is definitely in the plans...as well as OC'ing my GPU. I guess gold would be more suited for that?

 

[Fracas]

Are you limited to buying Amazon only? Budget of $50? Few cases stand out at that price range.

Not sure about the N400 as it has few reviews, but Overclockers Club generally liked it. I know Tweaktown liked the smaller N200 for having great airflow, so I assume the N400 shouldn't be too bad in that department either, as it comes with two fans and has a similar open mesh front. The 431 Plus from reviews seems to be anywhere from so-so to decent budget case. It and the N400 seem to lack options for cable management, though. No room behind the motherboard tray to hide anything.
Overclockers Club N400 review
Legit Reviews N400 review
Hardware Secrets 431 Plus review

I recommend the NZXT Source 210 Elite, it's $50 at Amazon ($40 elsewhere) and comes generally well-reviewed.
Tweaktown Source 210 Elite review
TechPowerUp Source 210 Elite review
Bit-Tech Source 210 Elite review

The Antec One is also a decent choice. It's $45 at Amazon. More room for cable management than the N400 or 431 Plus, but still not a lot.
Bit-Tech Antec One review
TechPowerUp Antec One review
Hexus Antec One review

Sounds good, I'll go with the NZXT!

edit: Oh wait, it doesn't have any 2.5" slots. I found an adapter that'll make my SSD fit though.

 

[Prophet Steve]

Well I am getting a 4690k so OC'ing is definitely in the plans...as well as OC'ing my GPU. I guess gold would be more suited for that?

Depends on how much the price difference is. Bronze rated isn't really bad or anything.

 

[OriginofHysteria]

Depends on how much the price difference is. Bronze rated isn't really bad or anything.

I was looking at either this:

EVGA SuperNova 650W gold:

http://www.microcenter.com/product/433613/SuperNOVA_650_Watt_80_Gold_Modular_ATX_12V_Power_Supply

or

EVGA 600B

http://www.microcenter.com/product/419581/600B_600_Watt_ATX_Power_Supply

Bout a 30 dollar difference.

 

[Prophet Steve]

I was looking at either this:

EVGA SuperNova 650W gold:

http://www.microcenter.com/product/433613/SuperNOVA_650_Watt_80_Gold_Modular_ATX_12V_Power_Supply

or

EVGA 600B

http://www.microcenter.com/product/419581/600B_600_Watt_ATX_Power_Supply

Bout a 30 dollar difference.

That seems like a bit much as you'll probably have the same results with the bronze unit.

Although a better PSU is never a bad purchase either. There usually seems to be a good deal with PSUs in the US, maybe someone else can pitch in.

 

[Sou Da]

Shouldn't there be a new 2015 thread made?

 

[ZeroMaverick]

So I'm just curious.

If I wanted a PC that could run games that look on par with PS4 games, how much would I have to spend?

I'm sorry if this is a super-noob question. I've never PC'd before, so forgive me.

 

[themadcowtipper]

So I'm just curious.

If I wanted a PC that could run games that look on par with PS4 games, how much would I have to spend?

I'm sorry if this is a super-noob question. I've never PC'd before, so forgive me.

Are you building from scratch?

 

[ZeroMaverick]

Are you building from scratch?

Yeah, I think that would be the most efficient route. Wouldn't it? idk

 

[themadcowtipper]

Yeah, I think that would be the most efficient route. Wouldn't it? idk

I mean do you have any pc parts you can reuse. Monitors, hdrives, ssd, gpu, processor, motherboard?

 

[Arsin]

So here is what I am looking to pick up in the coming week. I have been following this thread and saw that the LGA 1150 is on it's way out by the end of 2015. With that in mind I decided that the LGA 2011 would be the best pick up.

Core i7 3.3
ASUS X9
Kingston 16gb DDR4

I want to use the system to game at 1440p, would the parts that I have listed, along with a 780ti, get the job done? I have an ASUS swift so pushing every game to 120fps is not as important. I would like it if I did not have to upgrade for 3 or so years. I have a 2500k right now and I know I don't "NEED" to upgrade right now, but I have had it for around 3 years and I feel like it is time.

 

[ZeroMaverick]

Are you building from scratch?

I mean do you have any pc parts you can reuse. Monitors, hdrives, ssd, gpu, processor, motherboard?

oh, no not at all

 

[Smokey]

WTS - Samsung 840 PRO 128GB SSD

Never been opened.

$100 flat.

US50, PayPal, thnx

.

 

[BeEatNU]

FYI

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=149064077&postcount=15043

more so the computer stuff :F

 

[H4r4kiri]

I got this Offer for a used PC. He still got the recipe and the price is around 500€

Processor: Intel Core i5-4440 Box
Graphics:Sapphire Radeon R9 280 Dual-X
Mainboard:Gigabyte H87-HD3
Harddrive:500 GB HDD Hitachi, 128 GB SSD Samsung
Power:be quiet! PURE POWER CM BQT L8-CM-430W
Ram: 8GB-Kit G.Skill PC3-10667U CL9

Windows 7 included

Please help me. RGM already did, but I can't annoy him everytime

 

[lordfuzzybutt]

Try another program. HWMonitor is what I use.

Or clocking tree receiving too high voltage. I've heard of this problems in my line of work.

Thanks peeps.

 

[sonicmj1]

This is less of a PC building question and more of a hardware troubleshooting question, but it could take buying new components to fix, so I may as well ask here.

I have a desktop that I built for myself around four years ago. A year after I built it, I moved to Japan, and left the desktop behind. It stayed in a closet for two and a half years until I returned and set it up again. And ever since then, it's been having problems I'm fairly certain it didn't have before. Cleaning the case out with compressed air seems to have helped, but not solved the problem.

Symptoms:

• Lengthy system and program boot times.
• Lengthy shutdown times for system, as well as individual programs. More pronounced when multitasking.
• Video games can hitch up for seconds at a time when loading or streaming new data. This occurred when loading or entering new spaces in Wolfenstein during long play sessions, or just about constantly when moving around the base in MGS5: Ground Zeroes.
• When downloading games from Steam, the download will sometimes pause (0.0 kb/s) for long periods of time while saying, "Busy reading from disk."

This problem doesn't seem to significantly impact system performance otherwise, and I can play most current games well enough once they're loaded. It also seems to happen independent of system temperature, though I'm not 100% sure of this.

What components might be causing this problem? Is it the hard drive? Is it because I only have 4 GB of DDR3 RAM? I'm not sure exactly how to evaluate it.

 

[BasicMath]

So here is what I am looking to pick up in the coming week. I have been following this thread and saw that the LGA 1150 is on it's way out by the end of 2015. With that in mind I decided that the LGA 2011 would be the best pick up.

Core i7 3.3
ASUS X9
Kingston 16gb DDR4

I want to use the system to game at 1440p, would the parts that I have listed, along with a 780ti, get the job done? I have an ASUS swift so pushing every game to 120fps is not as important. I would like it if I did not have to upgrade for 3 or so years. I have a 2500k right now and I know I don't "NEED" to upgrade right now, but I have had it for around 3 years and I feel like it is time.

You're much better off buying a new and better GPU than an x99 set (CPU/Motherboard/RAM). That's more than likely to be your bottleneck right now when it comes to gaming at high res. If not, you should look into overclocking to a good 4.2GHz or so.

Also, Intel has been switching sockets every two years for their Mainstream/Enthusiast platforms. Switching to futureproof the CPU socket/platform is not a great move. I mean, x99/2011-v3 will get its final CPU release by the end of this year or early next.

 

[Femmeworth]

This is less of a PC building question and more of a hardware troubleshooting question, but it could take buying new components to fix, so I may as well ask here.

I have a desktop that I built for myself around four years ago. A year after I built it, I moved to Japan, and left the desktop behind. It stayed in a closet for two and a half years until I returned and set it up again. And ever since then, it's been having problems I'm fairly certain it didn't have before. Cleaning the case out with compressed air seems to have helped, but not solved the problem.

Symptoms:

• Lengthy system and program boot times.
• Lengthy shutdown times for system, as well as individual programs. More pronounced when multitasking.
• Video games can hitch up for seconds at a time when loading or streaming new data. This occurred when loading or entering new spaces in Wolfenstein during long play sessions, or just about constantly when moving around the base in MGS5: Ground Zeroes.
• When downloading games from Steam, the download will sometimes pause (0.0 kb/s) for long periods of time while saying, "Busy reading from disk."

This problem doesn't seem to significantly impact system performance otherwise, and I can play most current games well enough once they're loaded. It also seems to happen independent of system temperature, though I'm not 100% sure of this.

What components might be causing this problem? Is it the hard drive? Is it because I only have 4 GB of DDR3 RAM? I'm not sure exactly how to evaluate it.

Sounds like the hard drive. Maybe the connector is a bit loose or bad?

Edit: Probably run a hard drive diagnostic program before messing with the hardware.

 

[NobleXenon]

Does anyone know if the GTX 980 4GB can output three 1080p monitors in surround AND a 4k supplemental monitor at the same time?

 

[kikonawa]

This is less of a PC building question and more of a hardware troubleshooting question, but it could take buying new components to fix, so I may as well ask here.

I have a desktop that I built for myself around four years ago. A year after I built it, I moved to Japan, and left the desktop behind. It stayed in a closet for two and a half years until I returned and set it up again. And ever since then, it's been having problems I'm fairly certain it didn't have before. Cleaning the case out with compressed air seems to have helped, but not solved the problem.

Symptoms:

• Lengthy system and program boot times.
• Lengthy shutdown times for system, as well as individual programs. More pronounced when multitasking.
• Video games can hitch up for seconds at a time when loading or streaming new data. This occurred when loading or entering new spaces in Wolfenstein during long play sessions, or just about constantly when moving around the base in MGS5: Ground Zeroes.
• When downloading games from Steam, the download will sometimes pause (0.0 kb/s) for long periods of time while saying, "Busy reading from disk."

This problem doesn't seem to significantly impact system performance otherwise, and I can play most current games well enough once they're loaded. It also seems to happen independent of system temperature, though I'm not 100% sure of this.

What components might be causing this problem? Is it the hard drive? Is it because I only have 4 GB of DDR3 RAM? I'm not sure exactly how to evaluate it.

Im sure its your harddrive.
Instalm hdtune and let it scan the drive (not fastscan) it will take some time but at least you will be sure

 

[kikonawa]

I got this Offer for a used PC. He still got the recipe and the price is around 500€

Processor: Intel Core i5-4440 Box
Graphics:Sapphire Radeon R9 280 Dual-X
Mainboard:Gigabyte H87-HD3
Harddrive:500 GB HDD Hitachi, 128 GB SSD Samsung
Power:be quiet! PURE POWER CM BQT L8-CM-430W
Ram: 8GB-Kit G.Skill PC3-10667U CL9

Windows 7 included

Please help me. RGM already did, but I can't annoy him everytime

Thats an ok fair price.

 

[Tabasco]

There is no such thing. There is no need to build a new PC...

Update the crucial m4 SSD as advised and i would also update the bios. And reset bios to defaults.

Next thing use Malwarebytes antimalware to scan for any nasties.

Do you have any other miscellaneous peripherals/accessories connected? Wifi card/game controllers/sound card etc?

I will try updating those things, thanks.

I've ran Malwarebytes before, but my PC is clean.

I have a wireless wifi card and a wireless xbox 360 controller receiver hooked up. I don't see how this would cause my PC these serious issues, though.

 

[SolidSnakeUS]

I currently have a set of 5.1 Logitech X540 speakers and Audiotechnica ATH-AD700 headphones that I use sometimes (not all the time, because, I don't like wearing headphones all the time while at home). For how things are in terms of quality and games, is it still worth keeping my 5.1, or should I got to a better 2.1 or something?

 

[H4r4kiri]

Thats an ok fair price.

How are the components. I live in Germany so you can't compare to US prices ( they are alot better)

Will this system work well for games and will it play some at 60fps ?

 

[sonicmj1]

Im sure its your harddrive.
Instalm hdtune and let it scan the drive (not fastscan) it will take some time but at least you will be sure

Do you mean the error scan? This program has a ton of tests.

 

[Arsin]

You're much better off buying a new and better GPU than an x99 set (CPU/Motherboard/RAM). That's more than likely to be your bottleneck right now when it comes to gaming at high res. If not, you should look into overclocking to a good 4.2GHz or so.

Also, Intel has been switching sockets every two years for their Mainstream/Enthusiast platforms. Switching to futureproof the CPU socket/platform is not a great move. I mean, x99/2011-v3 will get its final CPU release by the end of this year or early next.

Hmm, so you think maybe going up to a 970/980 would be the better choice? Would I see that much of a difference from my 780ti? I thought it was my older CPU that was holding my system back.

 

[Gambit61]

Is this PSU fine for my setup for overclocking? GPU is a 7870XT. I tried some light overclocking just to see how my system handled it but got some weird crashing. Not sure if it might have just been a software issue with Trixx.

 

[Coulomb_Barrier]

Is there a reason you want to go with just a 120mm water cooler? According to this, the Noctua NH-D15 with one fan will be better at cooling than the Corsair H80i on maximum fan speed, and probably quieter as well. In the UK, the Corsair H80i (£73) and Noctua NH-D15 (£75) cost about the same.

.

Thanks pal.

No reason other than price. I can get a Corsair H80i refurb for about £55. You think that a 120mm cooler is ever so slightly inadequate when I plan to overclock the 5820k slightly?

I'm thinking now maybe it is.

 

[Femmeworth]

I can't decide on a case. So many choices and some of the one I have seen recommended in my price range like the Phanteks Enthoo Pro don't have a lot of customer reviews.

 

[Hazaro]

I can't decide on a case. So many choices and some of the one I have seen recommended in my price range like the Phanteks Enthoo Pro don't have a lot of customer reviews.

Why would you need a consumer review are watching this:
HWC: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBhmn21ylkc
Linus: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Gg6WoE6LkI

 

[Sendou]

Budget: 500€ + Finland/Europe
Main Use: HTPC - Some light gaming (mostly 2D indie games), possibly streaming games (Steam in-home streaming) and video streaming
Monitor Resolution: 1080p
Looking to reuse any parts?: AMD 955BE, GTX 560 Ti and Corsair HX 520W (PSU)
When will you build?: ASAP
Will you be overclocking?: No

So I'm looking to complete a build around the parts I already have. I was planning on installing SteamOS first to see how it is. If that doesn't work out for me then I guess I would be running Windows. TBH I just want to get a build for as cheap as possible. Cheap but not cheap. Meaning that I don't mind investing a bit if it means a lot quieter build or more future proof in case I end up upgrading my setup in the future. I'm decided on the case though since I like how it looks.

I was mainly wondering what motherboard I should be going for. Wifi is preferable but not necessary at all. I don't think I'll end up needing it in the end.

My build would be something like this

Case: BitFenix Phenom
CPU: AMD X4 955BE (already owned)
GPU: MSI GTX 560 Ti (already owned)
PSU: Corsair HX 520W (already owned)
Motherboard: Couldn't find GA-F2A88XN on a local store. Any alternatives here?
RAM: 8GB DRM3
Storage: Some 2TB HDD

Would going with default CPU cooler be a mistake or should I fork in some extra cash for Corsair H60?

 

[Deleted member 325805]

Does anyone know of a program that allows you to download all Windows updates and automatically install them? I have SP1 downloaded but it usually takes about 2 hours to download and install all the other updates (Windows update is always really slow for some reason). I just ordered a 500GB Samsung Evo 850 and I wanted to minimise my downtime as much as possible.

 

[RGM79]

That seems like a bit much as you'll probably have the same results with the bronze unit.

Although a better PSU is never a bad purchase either. There usually seems to be a good deal with PSUs in the US, maybe someone else can pitch in.

Paying $70 and $100 for those power supplies is overpriced. The EVGA 600B is just $30 after $15 rebate elsewhere.

If gold rating is wanted, then there are these options:

Antec TruePower Classic 550 watts gold rated for $40 after $20 rebate (650 watt model is available for $50 after $25 rebate). No reviews on either the 550 or 650 watt versions, but the 750 watt model did get a great review.


XFX XTR 550 watt gold rated model with fully modular cables is $67 after $15 rebate. Similarly no reviews for this exact model, but the 750 watt model received a great review.

Is this PSU fine for my setup for overclocking? GPU is a 7870XT. I tried some light overclocking just to see how my system handled it but got some weird crashing. Not sure if it might have just been a software issue with Trixx.

500 watts is enough.

Does anyone know of a program that allows you to download all Windows updates and automatically install them? I have SP1 downloaded but it usually takes about 2 hours to download and install all the other updates (Windows update is always really slow for some reason). I just ordered a 500GB Samsung Evo 850 and I wanted to minimise my downtime as much as possible.

Uh... doesn't Windows update already do that?

 

[Deleted member 325805]

Uh... doesn't Windows update already do that?

I want to have all the updates downloaded onto my storage drive so I can copy them over and install them quickly without having to download them and slowly install them via Windows update on the day I get my new SSD.

Autopatcher does what I need, just found it.

 

[Xdrive05]

EVGA step-up program question: if AMD releases the 300 series in the next 90 days, and Nvidia lowers the price of their 980 in response, does that mean I could "step-up" to the 980 at the new dropped price? Or would EVGA still charge the current $550 for it in that scenario?

 

[Celcius]

I currently have a set of 5.1 Logitech X540 speakers and Audiotechnica ATH-AD700 headphones that I use sometimes (not all the time, because, I don't like wearing headphones all the time while at home). For how things are in terms of quality and games, is it still worth keeping my 5.1, or should I got to a better 2.1 or something?

I used to have those exact speakers and I currently have those exact headphones. Unless you're not satisfied with the sound then I wouldn't change a thing.

 

[Arsin]

You're much better off buying a new and better GPU than an x99 set (CPU/Motherboard/RAM). That's more than likely to be your bottleneck right now when it comes to gaming at high res. If not, you should look into overclocking to a good 4.2GHz or so.

Also, Intel has been switching sockets every two years for their Mainstream/Enthusiast platforms. Switching to futureproof the CPU socket/platform is not a great move. I mean, x99/2011-v3 will get its final CPU release by the end of this year or early next.

Hmm, so you think maybe going up to a 970/980 would be the better choice? Would I see that much of a difference from my 780ti? I thought it was my older CPU that was holding my system back.

Quoting for the new page.