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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Western Digital announced some new SSDs and M.2 SSD.

wdblue.0.0.jpg


WD Blue SSD
For customers looking for enhanced SATA performance, WD Blue SSDs are optimized for multitasking and resource-heavy applications. Perfect in either a notebook or desktop PC, WD Blue SSDs are available in 250GB, 500GB, and 1TB capacities, and in both 2.5-inch/7mm case or M.2 2280 form factors. The WD Blue SSD offers up to 545MB/s and 525MB/s sequential read and write speeds, and endurance up to 400 TBW. Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) ranges from $79.00 USD to $299.00 USD and will be available immediately to select customers worldwide and at wd.com.

WD Green SSD
WD Green SSDs deliver essential-class performance, and are a great option for everyday use. Available in 120GB and 240GB capacities, and in both 2.5-inch/7mm case or M.2 2280 form factors, WD Green SSDs deliver an ultra-low power-draw, enabling PC users to work longer between battery charges. WD Green features sequential read and write times of up to 540MB/s and 405MB/s and endurance up to 80TBW. WD Green SSDs will be available later this quarter to select regions and customers.

https://wdc.com/about-wd/newsroom/p...-wd-blue-and-wd-green-solid-state-drives.html

Sounds like it's cheaper than the Samsung 960 Pro, but the read/write speeds are nowhere near as fast.
 

Mozendo

Member
Backup, backup, backup.

You are dealing with fire and electricity here.

"Work related stuff" and "PSU failure" should never be in the same sentence.
Yeah I know, it couldn't come at a worse time too as I'm applying to all these different jobs while needing my computer for an internship. Talked to some friends whether I can borrow theirs until I get a new one and they're either terrible units or they just don't want to.


what psu is it and is there a particular model you want to replace it with?
I have an Antec NeoEco 620c, I noticed 2-3 weeks ago there was this "whining" like noise that people I was voice chatting with could also hear, at first at thought it was one of the 2.5 inch drives I took from a laptop to just put some backups wouldn't be a great loss if they did so I decided to remove them to see which one was acting up and noticed it was actually my PSU.

As for a particular model, none really. I've had my eyes on a 650w versions of the
EVGA G2/GS/P2/GQ
Corsair RMx, AX(i), and HX(i)
And any fully or semi-modular SeaSonic or fully modular XFX gold rated or above.

I'll just get whatever is cheapest around mid to late november which is probably when I'd be buying the PSU.
 
Yeah I know, it couldn't come at a worse time too as I'm applying to all these different jobs while needing my computer for an internship. Talked to some friends whether I can borrow theirs until I get a new one and they're either terrible units or they just don't want to.



I have an Antec NeoEco 620c, I noticed 2-3 weeks ago there was this "whining" like noise that people I was voice chatting with could also hear, at first at thought it was one of the 2.5 inch drives I took from a laptop to just put some backups wouldn't be a great loss if they did so I decided to remove them to see which one was acting up and noticed it was actually my PSU.

As for a particular model, none really. I've had my eyes on a 650w versions of the
EVGA G2/GS/P2/GQ
Corsair RMx, AX(i), and HX(i)
And any fully or semi-modular SeaSonic or fully modular XFX gold rated or above.

I'll just get whatever is cheapest around mid to late november which is probably when I'd be buying the PSU.

I have the EVGA SuperNova G2 (750W) and highly recommend it.
 

Mupod

Member
I'm well aware of the old adage that there's never a good time to upgrade but god dammit Z270 is about to come out and the 7700k after that. But I don't wanna waaaaaiiiit.

I can at least get back into the groove of researching parts though.

I could maybe just go X99 instead, but I'm just not seeing the benefits there even for an SLI build (I have two 970s). I'm Canadian so the price difference is even worse.

I'm confused on DDR4 in general - quad channel or frequencies above 2400 are apparently not a big improvement and you just want faster timings?

I have an 850W power supply that still seems to be working perfectly fine, but is over 5 years old now. Not sure if I want to bother replacing that.
 

marc^o^

Nintendo's Pro Bono PR Firm
Question: do you usually let the nvidia geforce app do games settings for you? Or can this automated process not be always trusted?
 
I'm well aware of the old adage that there's never a good time to upgrade but god dammit Z270 is about to come out and the 7700k after that. But I don't wanna waaaaaiiiit.

I can at least get back into the groove of researching parts though.

I could maybe just go X99 instead, but I'm just not seeing the benefits there even for an SLI build (I have two 970s). I'm Canadian so the price difference is even worse.

I'm confused on DDR4 in general - quad channel or frequencies above 2400 are apparently not a big improvement and you just want faster timings?

I have an 850W power supply that still seems to be working perfectly fine, but is over 5 years old now. Not sure if I want to bother replacing that.

don't wait then because the z170 boards and a skylake CPU will still be a good choice. there is little reason to go for a kabylake unless you absolutely want the newest cpu. most people i've seen who are buying it are those who are still running sandybridge. i have a 6700K and won't be upgrading for a looooong time. earliest will probably be icelake or tigerlake.

Question: do you usually let the nvidia geforce app do games settings for you? Or can this automated process not be always trusted?

nope. i always set them manually. i don't trust it but who knows maybe it is good. never tried it and don't plan to. just looking at the settings it recommends for some games i can see that if i were to enable "Optimal" settings it would result in worse performance. having set them all manually i know what settings should be on or not to get the level of performance i want. to me it just seems like a quick way to set the settings but most games do that for you anyway or use a preset so i'm not sure why you'd need a program to do it for you.
 

Rnr1224

Member
might be a driver issue. roll back to a previous version if you can.

I think that did it, I went back to 359.00 and while there are the occasional drops in usage still, they are much less frequent and the drop is fps is barely noticeable now.

I may do some more experimenting with a newer driver to see if there is a newer one I should use.
 
I think that did it, I went back to 359.00 and while there are the occasional drops in usage still, they are much less frequent and the drop is fps is barely noticeable now.

I may do some more experimenting with a newer driver to see if there is a newer one I should use.

the recent drivers have been quite buggy it seems. the current one i'm on 373.06 is causing my overclock to be unstable so had to lower the values a bit to prevent artifacting. also there are reports of other issues.

368.81 seems to be a popular build to roll back to. you might want to try that out.
 

Ocho

Member
Thanks
Ive sorta worked out what to run in that case. C7 cooler 6500 470.
Did you just get the case or the SF psu as well.

Quick impressions so far from Node 202.

I've built 6 or 7 PCs and this case has been definitively the most difficult.

First of all, removing one of the sides is kind of hard. I broke my LED light plastic so be careful when removing that panel (start from the back side).

Cable management is a pain. I pretty much tucked all my cables wherever possible.

Temperatures right now are crazy. Not sure if I installed my noctua cpu cooler wrong, but I get around ~42 C browsing (room temp is 21 C), and got to 82 C playing games last night. This is also having two extra noctua fans for intake near the gpu.

Will I stick with this case? I don't know. What's the consensus for hitting over 80 C for CPU?

Edit: Have 6700k btw

Edit: Set my fans to turbo. I get 60s while gaming but sometimes spike up to 70s or 80s for a couple of seconds.
 

big fake

Member
1. You don't necessarily have to upgrade your RAM to higher speeds (is it simply running at the default 2133 or is it rated for higher speeds? If it is you can just OC it by activating XMP in your BIOS), but since RAM is cheap and games are increasingly hungry for it, getting another 8 would be a good idea.

2. Get an SSD for games only if you really feel your load times should be better. There are some HDD/SSD load time comparisons on YouTube which will give you a good idea of the load times of many games with an SSD.

Answer to 1: Its non overclock-able RAM so the speed is locked at 2133, and so are you saying it would be get another 8 at the same speed or should I just get faster RAM and more of it and swap out the one DIM from my system for two faster DIM's?

Answer to 2: I have been playing Redout and DarkSouls II SotFS and loading times retries and deaths are 4 seconds max, and thats with being installed on the HDD, so should I really invest in something that might only shed 2 seconds off the restart? Or is just those games have fast loading times and I'm being fooled into thinking loading times are fast with my current setup?
 

kuYuri

Member
I'm stuck in a shitty situation, my PSU is failing but I can't replace it because I constantly use my computer especially for work related stuff and I can't buy a new one because I'm barely getting by with the vills. Pray for me GAF ;_;

Can you not spare $40-$50 for a new PSU in the meantime? Especially since it sounds so important for you right now.
 

enewtabie

Member
Quick impressions so far from Node 202.

I've built 6 or 7 PCs and this case has been definitively the most difficult.

First of all, removing one of the sides is kind of hard. I broke my LED light plastic so be careful when removing that panel (start from the back side).

Cable management is a pain. I pretty much tucked all my cables wherever possible.

Temperatures right now are crazy. Not sure if I installed my noctua cpu cooler wrong, but I get around ~42 C browsing (room temp is 21 C), and got to 82 C playing games last night. This is also having two extra noctua fans for intake near the gpu.

Will I stick with this case? I don't know. What's the consensus for hitting over 80 C for CPU?

Edit: Have 6700k btw

Edit: Set my fans to turbo. I get 60s while gaming but sometimes spike up to 70s or 80s for a couple of seconds.


Thanks for your review. I may rethink my original idea and go back to the 500.
 
I've got a bit of a retro-PC question.

My cousin recently gave me his old PC and I was hoping to put it into some sort of shape to play games.

Couple of very simple questions:

1) What GPU will maximize a Q6600 without being overkill.
2) What is the gaming limit (either 720p or 1080p is fine) for the Q6600 + previously mentioned GPU, as its going to be used on a TV?
 

kennah

Member
I've got a bit of a retro-PC question.

My cousin recently gave me his old PC and I was hoping to put it into some sort of shape to play games.

Couple of very simple questions:

1) What GPU will maximize a Q6600 without being overkill.
2) What is the gaming limit (either 720p or 1080p is fine) for the Q6600 + previously mentioned GPU, as its going to be used on a TV?
I found my 670 held back by my q6600. So find a used 670 or 760 for cheap. Or get an amd 460. Or maybe you could find a 750ti or 950 for a good price.
 

Xux

Member
Does PCPartPicker hate Amazon? I've had a couple parts be cheaper on Amazon but PCPartPicker lists something else 'cause they say Amazon has a shipping charge despite the item being too expensive for shipping.
 
Does PCPartPicker hate Amazon? I've had a couple parts be cheaper on Amazon but PCPartPicker lists something else 'cause they say Amazon has a shipping charge despite the item being too expensive for shipping.
I've ran I to this too. I don't know why PCPP does this. It over estimates Amazon prices and lists more expensive stores as cheaper...
 

DSN2K

Member
Think karma bitten me on the arse for moaning about DDR4....one of my DDR3 sticks died tonight, PC won't even boot with it in!!! Had to remove it so im Down to 8GB and single channel :(
 

Ocho

Member
Kind of a noob question, but my recently purchased i7 6700k runs at ~4.2 ghz (kind of dynamically fluctuates). Is this turbo boost or is my Asus RoG motherboard doing some automatic overclocking?
 

Bloodember

Member
Kind of a noob question, but my recently purchased i7 6700k runs at ~4.2 ghz (kind of dynamically fluctuates). Is this turbo boost or is my Asus RoG motherboard doing some automatic overclocking?
It should fluctuate in speed due to how much workload it is doing.
 
I just got my 1070 and went to install it and see it requires and 8pin connector. My old card used two 6pins and i dont have any 8pin cables. Do I have to buy a 6pin to 8pin adaptor?

This leads me to believe I can just plug in the 6pin
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/power-supply-specifications-atx-reference,review-32338-12.html
Because of both the physical design as well as the use of the sense signals, the six-pin power supply connector plug is backward compatible with the eight-pin graphics card socket. This means that if your graphics card has an eight-pin socket but your power supply has only six-pin connectors available, you can plug the six-pin connector into the eight-pin socket using an offset arrangement, as shown below. The connectors are keyed such that they should only plug in the correct way, but be careful because they can be forced together in an incorrect fashion, which can potentially damage the card.

this is my psu btw
http://pcpartpicker.com/product/DPCwrH/seasonic-power-supply-ssr550rm

edit: i think one of the 6pins is actually a 6+2 so i should be good to go

edit2: they were both 6+2 cables.
 
Kind of a noob question, but my recently purchased i7 6700k runs at ~4.2 ghz (kind of dynamically fluctuates). Is this turbo boost or is my Asus RoG motherboard doing some automatic overclocking?

The i7-6700K has a stock speed of 4.0 and with Turbo Boost it can go to 4.2. The frequency should go from 0.8-4.2 based on how hard it is working. If you want to go beyond 4.2 you need to overclock.
 
I just got my 1070 and went to install it and see it requires and 8pin connector. My old card used two 6pins and i dont have any 8pin cables. Do I have to buy a 6pin to 8pin adaptor?

This leads me to believe I can just plug in the 6pin
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/power-supply-specifications-atx-reference,review-32338-12.html


this is my psu btw
http://pcpartpicker.com/product/DPCwrH/seasonic-power-supply-ssr550rm

edit: i think one of the 6pins is actually a 6+2 so i should be good to go

No you need to use an 8 pin. Don't try to use it with just a 6pin. Please check the extra cables that came with your psu, there should be a 6+2 pin. Actually yes both of them should be 6+2pin according to newegg, but if there is just one of those cables that's fine. You should have it though.
 
No you need to use an 8 pin. Don't try to use it with just a 6pin. Please check the extra cables that came with your psu, there should be a 6+2 pin. Actually yes both of them should be 6+2pin according to newegg, but if there is just one of those cables that's fine. You should have it though.

yeah they were both 6+2 i didnt realize it at first glance because i had the extra 2 pins tied off behind the cable itself. all hyped up to install the new card and see 6pins and feel defeated.

thanks
 
Holy Christ, manually overclocking is involved. I thought you could just adjust multipliers and voltage, but then the guide I was reading made it seem like you'd have to adjust your RAM clocks, timings, voltage, etc among a lot of other things. A quick glance of it again seems like that is only the case if you adjust the base clock?

I could tell the guide on Tweaktown I was reading was well written and thoughtfully put together, but it was way over my head and a little terrifying
 
Holy Christ, manually overclocking is involved. I thought you could just adjust multipliers and voltage, but then the guide I was reading made it seem like you'd have to adjust your RAM clocks, timings, voltage, etc among a lot of other things. A quick glance of it again seems like that is only the case if you adjust the base clock?

I could tell the guide on Tweaktown I was reading was well written and thoughtfully put together, but it was way over my head and a little terrifying

You can just select xmp profile for your ram and the appropriate speed and timings will be loaded. Then you just focus on multiplier and voltage.

What kind of cpu, ram, and mobo?
 
Holy Christ, manually overclocking is involved. I thought you could just adjust multipliers and voltage, but then the guide I was reading made it seem like you'd have to adjust your RAM clocks, timings, voltage, etc among a lot of other things. A quick glance of it again seems like that is only the case if you adjust the base clock?

I could tell the guide on Tweaktown I was reading was well written and thoughtfully put together, but it was way over my head and a little terrifying

The guides out there will usually try to cover everything, even the ones only useful for pushing limits, for casual overclocking like 4.4-4.5GHz on i5/7s all you need is ratio, voltage, and XMP ram profile.
 
What's everyone's take on exhaust or intake for HDD and SSD cooling? I bought a caselabs BH7 and the drives will be sitting in the basement with 2 80mm vents.
 

Cindres

Vied for a tag related to cocks, so here it is.
I'm gonna ask this here as it's a general hardware question.

I want a device that plugs in to USB (probably), that I can plug my headphones into and which has media keys on it. So I can use it a: as an extension for my headphones cable and b: to control play/pause/next/volume, etc. Does such a device exist? I haven't had much luck searching as I'm not sure what to search for.
 
Holy Christ, manually overclocking is involved. I thought you could just adjust multipliers and voltage, but then the guide I was reading made it seem like you'd have to adjust your RAM clocks, timings, voltage, etc among a lot of other things. A quick glance of it again seems like that is only the case if you adjust the base clock?

I could tell the guide on Tweaktown I was reading was well written and thoughtfully put together, but it was way over my head and a little terrifying

This is how you learn.
 

LordAlu

Member
I'm gonna ask this here as it's a general hardware question.

I want a device that plugs in to USB (probably), that I can plug my headphones into and which has media keys on it. So I can use it a: as an extension for my headphones cable and b: to control play/pause/next/volume, etc. Does such a device exist? I haven't had much luck searching as I'm not sure what to search for.
Creative used to do something called the XMod that was similar (although I think it used a remote for control). Don't think they make it any more, so you might have to look for a second hand one.
 

jon bones

hot hot hanuman-on-man action
OK ready to pull the trigger on everything tonight - could I get a second pair of eyes on it before I do?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($324.95 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($70.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($159.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($78.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card (Purchased For $450.00)
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $70.00)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($84.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.9 CFM 140mm Fan ($19.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.9 CFM 140mm Fan ($19.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1514.32
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-13 09:15 EDT-0400
Also - in addition to the following parts, will I need anything else? wires? harnesses? or will everything be included? I know I will need to get a friend and get Windows 10 onto a USB drive because I don't have an optical drive, but I'm not sure what else I'll need.
 
Hi!

Need recommendation on a cheap, quiet and power-efficient (this being the absolute priority) set of components to serve as a home NAS/media machine:

Need the following components:

Motherboard
CPU
RAM
PSU
SSD (just for OS install, so I assume pretty much any small SSD will do?)

Thanks.
 

Mupod

Member
PCI-e 3.0 x8 is fine for GTX 970 SLI right? I mean I have them at x8 2.0 and it's still a pretty big boost over one card.

I'm looking at the gigabyte gaming 7 Z170 board right now but those new samsung m.2 drives look insane. I'd written off an m.2 drive but it looks like the prices became reasonable in the time since I last looked into them. I was also concerned about PCI lanes but it seems that board would still be able to do PCE 3.0 x8 for two slots and have 4 left over for an m.2 connector.

Even if I don't get one of the new 960 drives, looks like prices went down on the 950 line and that's still several times faster than the SSDs I have now. I'd already planned to buy a new SSD because my current ones are an ancient 60GB and a slow 240GB that I got as a stopgap solution after Windows ate the entire 60GB.

I guess I'm already on the fence for an x99 and 6 core CPU, which would definitely solve the PCI lanes issue, but I cringe a bit every time I work out the price.
 
Hi!

Need recommendation on a cheap, quiet and power-efficient (this being the absolute priority) set of components to serve as a home NAS/media machine:

Need the following components:

Motherboard
CPU
RAM
PSU
SSD (just for OS install, so I assume pretty much any small SSD will do?)

Thanks.

Or maybe I can go with something like this?

https://www.alzashop.com/gigabyte-brix-bace-3150-d3025378.htm?catid=18855364#discussionPosts

~125EUR for something that tiny, seems like a good deal. Thoughts?
 
Wow, what is the point of these then? They're really not that much cheaper than the 960s (90 vs 130 for the 250gb) - but the 960s are almost five times as fast.

I was hoping the press release was just worded unclearly, but that doesn't seem to be the case.

I guess it could be an option for people with older motherboards who wouldn't see the speeds of the 960s anyway, but even then I'd just pay a little bit more for the 960s to use for future upgrades.

Weird announcement.
 

Mozendo

Member
Can you not spare $40-$50 for a new PSU in the meantime? Especially since it sounds so important for you right now.
Not really, that means I either stop paying for transportation or miss one of my bills, but an extremely generous gaffer gave me $55 so I will hopefully be able to get a new PSU


I am trying to sell my now replaced 390 Strix but no one want is haha. How much would you guys pay for it?

For a used product I feel that $190-$220 is a good price.
 
OK ready to pull the trigger on everything tonight - could I get a second pair of eyes on it before I do?


Also - in addition to the following parts, will I need anything else? wires? harnesses? or will everything be included? I know I will need to get a friend and get Windows 10 onto a USB drive because I don't have an optical drive, but I'm not sure what else I'll need.

Zip ties and maybe some nice thermal paste like artic mx4. Other than that you should get everything you need.

Not really, that means I either stop paying for transportation or miss one of my bills, but an extremely generous gaffer gave me $55 so I will hopefully be able to get a new PSU




For a used product I feel that $190-$220 is a good price.

Honestly try to save up alittle more and get a good psu. I'm kind of in the same boat as you and I don't want to get stuck with a mediocre unit again, so I'm saving up for a fsp hydro g.
 
What's a good monitor for $150-$250? I'm going to be using a MSI RX480 gaming X 8GB and need to replace my old monitor (which is 8 years old). Mainly going to be playing at 1080p with whatever settings my card will get me, if that helps.
 
You can just select xmp profile for your ram and the appropriate speed and timings will be loaded. Then you just focus on multiplier and voltage.

What kind of cpu, ram, and mobo?
Oh, okay, I was hoping that was the case. I have a 6700k with Team Vulcan DDR4 3000 and MSI Gaming Krait Z170.

The guides out there will usually try to cover everything, even the ones only useful for pushing limits, for casual overclocking like 4.4-4.5GHz on i5/7s all you need is ratio, voltage, and XMP ram profile.
Sweet, thank you.
 

Mozendo

Member
Honestly try to save up alittle more and get a good psu. I'm kind of in the same boat as you and I don't want to get stuck with a mediocre unit again, so I'm saving up for a fsp hydro g.

Oh I didn't complete the sentence, yeah I meant to I will hopefully be able to get a new PSU in a few weeks compared to a month. I'm currently looking at the SeaSonic X-650 and the EVGA G2/GS 650. I'll get whatever is cheaper when I have the money.

What's a good monitor for $150-$250? I'm going to be using a MSI RX480 gaming X 8GB and need to replace my old monitor (which is 8 years old). Mainly going to be playing at 1080p with whatever settings my card will get me, if that helps.

If you want a 1080p 144hz monitor then the Asus MG284Q goes down to $250 at times, and it's $260 at Micro Center. I'm not knowledgeable when it comes to monitors but it replaces the VG248Q and offers freesync support despite it not being labeled on the box.
 
So I jumped on that Sapphire Tri-X Fury last weekend at $250. Figured it would be a good stopgap card for another 6 months to a year at that price. I upgraded from a 390 so I figured I would get a 15 - 20% boost which I was fine with.

The card isn't too much bigger than the xfx 390 which surprised me a bit. Everything I read mentioned how damn big the card is:


Here it is installed:


I have a little wire clean up to do on the bottom. Those fan wires are so short that its hard to do anything effective with them.

I do have a question for the community however. Right now as you can see in the second image I'm running two fans up front for intake and one output on the back. I was thinking of adding a second output fan on the top above/behind the cpu. However I don't have a lot of room up front for another intake fan. My GPU's have always run just a bit hot (although the 6600k stays pretty cool with an OC to 4.2). Does anyone have any suggestions on what I could do on my current build to bring down temps just a bit?
 
If you want a 1080p 144hz monitor then the Asus MG284Q goes down to $250 at times, and it's $260 at Micro Center. I'm not knowledgeable when it comes to monitors but it replaces the VG248Q and offers freesync support despite it not being labeled on the box.

Thanks, can you drop a link so I can find it? Whenever I google it, it shows me the Asus MG279Q instead.
 

FireRises

Member
4K monitor + Gsync (60hz)

or

1440p + Gsync (144hz)

I have a GTX 1080, both would be 27". I'm torn between the high refresh rate and the high resolution. I currently have a 1440p monitor but the tearing is annoying, so I want gsync but I can't decide between having the higher resolution or the higher refresh rate.
 

Vipu

Banned
4K monitor + Gsync (60hz)

or

1440p + Gsync (144hz)

I have a GTX 1080, both would be 27". I'm torn between the high refresh rate and the high resolution. I currently have a 1440p monitor but the tearing is annoying, so I want gsync but I can't decide between having the higher resolution or the higher refresh rate.

144hz
 
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