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[Barkley's Justice]

Interested in snagging a ~512GB SSD for my Alienware Alpha during Black Friday.

Saw this Crucial Crucial MX300 525GB for $119 at the moment:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IAGSD68/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Seems like a good deal? A 500GB Samsung 850 EVO is going for $164.

Should I go for it?

 

[Avenger54321]

Your DVI port is DVI-D not DVI-I. DVI-D is digital only so it's not possible with a simple cable. You'd need a converter like this.

So will this also work? It's a 24+1 DVI-D to VGA.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KOF4ER0/?tag=neogaf0e-20

or this as well?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...201&cm_re=dvi-d_to_vga-_-14-999-201-_-Product

 

[Hazardous Metal]

So I'm having an issue with my computer I built back in May. When I leave my computer on for an extended period of time, the more and more I do stuff the higher my RAM usage goes until it maxes out and my computer starts running sluggishly. A restart fixes the issue but it's only a matter of time until it happens again.

https://gyazo.com/1be21492bc507a6acbc9712fc87853ec

^ Picture of RAM usage on MSI Afterburner.


Any idea as to what is causing this? Any fixes? Computer noob here so I'd appreciate any help I can get.

 

[border]

How would you guys rate these two machines??

$225 - Alienware i3 - Intel Core i3 - 4130T Dual Core - nVidia GeForce GTX GPU w/2GB GDDR5 - 4GB DDR3

$375 - Alienware i7 - Intel Core i7 - 4765T Quad Core - nVidia GeForce GTX GPU w/2GB GDDR5 - 8GB DDR3

I have a couple friends who want to buy PCs for gaming on Black Friday, and these look like the most interesting deals around. These are non-enthusiasts who don't really want to build their own system and don't really want to do much more than play DOTA, HOTS, WoW, and console ports at a decent clip. It's not necessary that they buy powerhouse machines, but I am curious how the Alienware Steam Machines stack up in terms of value and build quality. Is there any huge reason to prefer the more expensive i7 machine? How will these boxes compare to an Xbox One or PS4?

 

[kennah]

So will this also work? It's a 24+1 DVI-D to VGA.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KOF4ER0/?tag=neogaf0e-20

or this as well?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...201&cm_re=dvi-d_to_vga-_-14-999-201-_-Product

Second one says "will not work with DVI-D and DVIS ports".

You need an active adaptor like the first one.

A Display port to VGA would also work.

 

[Avenger54321]

Second one says "will not work with DVI-D and DVIS ports".

You need an active adaptor like the first one.

A Display port to VGA would also work.

Sorry didn't see that. Thanks

 

[TaterTots]

The budget build that was suggested a year ago is still going strong(i3 4170/16 GB RAM/GTX 960). However, I know my time is limited with newer titles. Gears of War 4 runs on the high preset @ 60 fps(1080p/MP only). My question is, what do I need to upgrade first when the time comes? I feel like it's my CPU, but I'm not sure. I have a H81m-p33 mobo. What would be the best CPU upgrade? A i5 4690?

 

[timnich]

It's been awhile since I built my PC and am completely out of the loop. I was hoping to get some advice; I want something that can run Battlefield 1 at 60FPS@1080P on High/Ultra. I'm hoping to reuse as much as possible but based on the age of my PC I'm assuming I will be replacing almost everything.

Current Build:

Motherboard: MSI Z77A-G41 LGA1155 Z77
Video card: Radeon HD 6870
CPU: i5-3570 @ 3.40 GHz
Ram: 2x2GB
Power supply: 450w

 

[Raw64life]

This is my updated parts list. Assuming I don't run into any great BF deals this is what I'm prepared to pull the trigger on.

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H170-GAMING 3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($80.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($93.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Desktop HDD 4TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive ($116.94 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card ($379.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($75.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1277.83

Any update on G-sync monitor deals? I'm still on the lookout for one. I'd actually prefer a smaller monitor and really don't want to go above $399. I'm hoping the Dell one I saw earlier will drop in price but I doubt it.

 

[Mozendo]

This is my updated parts list. Assuming I don't run into any great BF deals this is what I'm prepared to pull the trigger on.

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/y3D7pb
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/y3D7pb/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H170-GAMING 3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($80.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($93.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Desktop HDD 4TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive ($116.94 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card ($379.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($75.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1277.83

Any update on G-sync monitor deals? I'm still on the lookout for one. I'd actually prefer a smaller monitor and really go above $399. I'm hoping the Dell one I saw earlier will drop in price but I doubt it.

You want a Z170 MoBo if you're going to overclock, also look into the Cryorig H7 or the Artic Cooling i32, there are cheaper options if you want something that performs like the 212 Evo.

 

[Raw64life]

You want a Z170 MoBo if you're going to overclock, also look into the Cryorig H7 or the Artic Cooling i32, there are cheaper options if you want something that performs like the 212 Evo.

Thanks I'll look into the coolers.

I switched my mobo to this. I actually set myself up to overlock my last rig but then I never did. More laziness and inexperience than anything else.

 

[Bloodember]

So I'm having an issue with my computer I built back in May. When I leave my computer on for an extended period of time, the more and more I do stuff the higher my RAM usage goes until it maxes out and my computer starts running sluggishly. A restart fixes the issue but it's only a matter of time until it happens again.

https://gyazo.com/1be21492bc507a6acbc9712fc87853ec

^ Picture of RAM usage on MSI Afterburner.


Any idea as to what is causing this? Any fixes? Computer noob here so I'd appreciate any help I can get.

What programs are you using and what are you doing most of the time when this happens? Do you have anti-virus and malware protection? Download and run this program and get back with what it found. The program is called Rkill.

 

[trailmix16]

nm, ended up getting an older mb with a ddr3 ram

 

[Baron_Calamity]

Is there such a thing as a completely toolless PC case? As in you wouldn't even need a screwdriver to install the motherboard or power supply. One that isn't a test bench either open to the world.

 

[Rufus]

Don't think I've ever seen a case were even the motherboard stand-offs and fans use something other than regular screws.

 

[Baron_Calamity]

Don't think I've ever seen a case were even the motherboard stand-offs and fans use something other than regular screws.

I had a case about 10 years ago that had a snap in motherboard tray and plastic standoffs that could be slid in and out.

 

[Rufus]

Huh, pretty neat. I guess you could get away with using thumb screws for everything, provided there are no clearance issues.

 

[dangeROSS]

Was wondering if I could get some more knowledgeable people's advice about buying a prebuilt PC on sale at Best Buy -

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpo...470b0c611e68ade8a72f8ad72310INT&skuId=5615010

Would this be a decent rig for running most stuff at 1080p with 60 FPS or higher?

 

[3x0]

So I'm having an issue with my computer I built back in May. When I leave my computer on for an extended period of time, the more and more I do stuff the higher my RAM usage goes until it maxes out and my computer starts running sluggishly. A restart fixes the issue but it's only a matter of time until it happens again.

https://gyazo.com/1be21492bc507a6acbc9712fc87853ec

^ Picture of RAM usage on MSI Afterburner.


Any idea as to what is causing this? Any fixes? Computer noob here so I'd appreciate any help I can get.

It's very likely a driver problem. Try updating your LAN adapter driver, it's probably the culprit.

 

[Baron_Calamity]

Was wondering if I could get some more knowledgeable people's advice about buying a prebuilt PC on sale at Best Buy -

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpo...470b0c611e68ade8a72f8ad72310INT&skuId=5615010

Would this be a decent rig for running most stuff at 1080p with 60 FPS or higher?

At 1080p, sure. The processor might hold you back some but at that price, you could swap out the cpu, board, ram in a year and still make it a good deal. Cyberpower pc just uses off the shelf parts so you won't run into any strange bios

 

[z3phon]

Any help would be appreciated. I have the Asus z170 deluxe motherboard and i'm experiencing an issue at boot up. Whenever I do a cold boot, the POST doesn't display and after 1 long beep and 3 short beeps along with the VGA led lighting up and then my windows loads up perfectly fine. Everything seems to function fine, but the VGA led remains on until I do a restart and then I see the POST and just 1 normal beep.
So I'm experiencing this issue usually only during cold boot. Any one have any ideas why this could be happening?

 

[enewtabie]

Was wondering if I could get some more knowledgeable people's advice about buying a prebuilt PC on sale at Best Buy -

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpo...470b0c611e68ade8a72f8ad72310INT&skuId=5615010

Would this be a decent rig for running most stuff at 1080p with 60 FPS or higher?

Not a fan of the cpu. They have a model with the i5 6402T and the 480 which does. great on 1080p 60fps plus.

 

[Vuze]

Okay GAF, I need some input. Ordered a GTX 1080 FE from Amazon WHD to replace my 1080 FTW which I'll be returning. I thought I'd be good just removing any EVGA software and then swapping the cards but that didn't work.

So I downloaded the latest NVIDIA drivers and did a fresh install of all components (twice now). Still no signal.

Device manager says on the GPU (it's detected as 1080, NVIDIA driver setup obviously detects the card too): "device was stopped as it reported errors, code 43" (rough translation). Event tab says "device not migrated".

Is the card bricked on a software level or something?

E: okay, dumped the bios. It doesn't match the FE roms i found online so I guess the dude was just stupid and bricked the card? I'll try to make the most out of it and track down which one he tried to flash

 

[BruinsMtB]

Decided against going all out on my new desktop, I don't play that many games and don't care much for graphics so it seemed like a waste of money. I'm mostly looking at being able to run future games at 1080p, hopefully 60FPS but some games I won't care if it drops. I'm the type that thinks games look great on medium texture/shader settings and I run shadows on low most of the time even when I don't need to. This is my cheap build so far,

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/9GDmFd

I'm unsure about what cheap cases I should look at but I know the 300R is way too big for the parts I'm buying. The GTX 1060 seems like overkill for my purposes, anyone have any experience with the RX 470? Any other places people think I could trim or am I looking at $750-800 cheapest without making big concessions?

Thanks

 

[LilJoka]

Decided against going all out on my new desktop, I don't play that many games and don't care much for graphics so it seemed like a waste of money. I'm mostly looking at being able to run future games at 1080p, hopefully 60FPS but some games I won't care if it drops. I'm the type that thinks games look great on medium texture/shader settings and I run shadows on low most of the time even when I don't need to. This is my cheap build so far,

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/9GDmFd

I'm unsure about what cheap cases I should look at but I know the 300R is way too big for the parts I'm buying. The GTX 1060 seems like overkill for my purposes, anyone have any experience with the RX 470? Any other places people think I could trim or am I looking at $750-800 cheapest without making big concessions?

Thanks

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($190.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($51.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($68.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 480 4GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($204.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($42.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($79.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $779.70
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-22 14:56 EST-0500

I would go for 16GB RAM.
If you look on the web, windows can be had for $15. You could then get a few better components overall. After RAM id be looking at the PSU.

 

[SnakeXs]

Hey guys. My old man wants to build a general purpose PC. Nothing fancy. His budget is about 500-600 with a case. What do y'all recommend parts wise? Been so far out of the PC hardware loop I wouldn't know where to begin. Help me PC-GAF, you're my only hope.

 

[opticalmace]

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($190.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($51.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($68.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 480 4GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($204.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($42.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($79.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $779.70
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-22 14:56 EST-0500

I would go for 16GB RAM.

Might as well save the cost of the cooler and just use the stock one, no?

Hey guys. My old man wants to build a general purpose PC. Nothing fancy. His budget is about 500-600 with a case. What do y'all recommend parts wise? Been so far out of the PC hardware loop I wouldn't know where to begin. Help me PC-GAF, you're my only hope.

Does he need a monitor/peripherals? TBH LilJoka's build minus the video card would be good.

 

[LilJoka]

Might as well save the cost of the cooler and just use the stock one, no?


Does he need a monitor/peripherals? TBH LilJoka's build minus the video card would be good.

Could do, I think the stock cooler is loud though, other people may tolerate it though.

Some other options
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($214.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($68.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($254.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($15.00)
Total: $808.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-22 15:04 EST-0500

 

[Levyne]

Are there are known current or upcoming BF deals on gaming monitors? Looking to upgrade to 4k.

Wny is this monitor so cheap compared to the competition?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1224162-REG/lg_27ud68_p_27_widescreen_led.html

4k Free Sync (Worse than Gsync?)
IPS

Would DisplayPort 1.2 be an issue for 4k60?

 

[z3phon]

Anyone got a MSI motherboard?
I'm looking at the MSI Z170A M7 board and the drivers on the website seem to be pretty old.
Like the chipset driver is from 2015-08-05. Is there some where else one could download the latest chipset drivers from?
Why do the MSI motherboard drivers seem to be so out of date?

https://ca.msi.com/Motherboard/support/Z170A-GAMING-M7.html#down-driver&Win10 64

 

[Goroh]

Is now a good time to make a new pc from scratch? Or is there anything major coming out in the next months worth waiting for?

 

[JonnyDBrit]

Is now a good time to make a new pc from scratch? Or is there anything major coming out in the next months worth waiting for?

Well, next year the new architectures for CPUs start coming out. Those'll likely be expensive though, and Intel's current Skylake stock'll still be good for a while.

 

[GenericBadGuy]

I've been using a desktop I bought from Cyberpower about 10 years ago, and it's finally made it to the point it can't run the newest games that come out. So I'm perusing Black Friday deals and Cyberpower has what looks like good ones.

I know that it's probably better to build it on my own, but honestly while I love PC gaming I don't have the time, interest, or patience to start building now and time is of the essence. Cyberpower will double the memory for free in a machine for today only, for example.

I was hoping for advice in customization on a site like that since I'm ignorant, and would greatly appreciate it. I'm looking for something that will last a long time like the previous one, and can maybe run, say, the new Mass Effect when it comes out nicely. I love gaming on PC and I already miss it. Battlefield 1 on console feels awful. Under $1000 is preferred.

http://www.cyberpowerpc.com/saved/1JBLG8

I toyed around with one that is featured right now, and I notice it's all essentially modular and they just have presets, which makes it confusing.

 

[timnich]

It's been awhile since I built my PC and am completely out of the loop. I was hoping to get some advice; I want something that can run Battlefield 1 at 60FPS@1080P on High/Ultra. I'm hoping to reuse as much as possible but based on the age of my PC I'm assuming I will be replacing almost everything.

Current Build:

Motherboard: MSI Z77A-G41 LGA1155 Z77
Video card: Radeon HD 6870
CPU: i5-3570 @ 3.40 GHz
Ram: 2x2GB
Power supply: 450w

I've been doing a bit of research on this, I think I may be able to keep my current CPU if I overclock it. Will a RX 480 suffice for my needs? Any specific models to look for?

 

[Mr Swine]

Hi GAF, with BF coming up I wonder if it's worth upgrading my PC (replacing MB, Ram and CPU.

Currently have

I5 3750k
8GB ddr3
ASUS motherboard

I was thinking of getting a

I7 6700k
16GB ddr4 2666mhz ram
ASUS Z170 pro motherboard

Is it worth it if I play games like Starcraft 2, Mafia 3, GTAV, MGS5 and DOOM with my GTX970 or would it be better to just buy a GTX 1080?

 

[iamblades]

Hi GAF, with BF coming up I wonder if it's worth upgrading my PC (replacing MB, Ram and CPU.

Currently have

I5 3750k
8GB ddr3
ASUS motherboard

I was thinking of getting a

I7 6700k
16GB ddr4 2666mhz ram
ASUS Z170 pro motherboard

Is it worth it if I play games like Starcraft 2, Mafia 3, GTAV, MGS5 and DOOM with my GTX970 or would it be better to just buy a GTX 1080?

That is a pretty damn large jump. I don't think you will notice much different at all going from a 970 to a 1080 in real world usage with that CPU. Maybe doom at 4k or something you will see a difference, at 1080p with that cpu the 1080 will be bottlenecked like crazy.

 

[funkystudent]

Anyone got any recommendations for a sub $200 monitor?


Dont care about going for 144hrz or 1440p. A nice 1080p/60 screen would be more then welcome.

 

[data]

Anyone got any recommendations for a sub $200 monitor?


Dont care about going for 144hrz or 1440p. A nice 1080p/60 screen would be more then welcome.

I think you could score a U2414H for around 200$ or a bit higher

review: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/dell_u2414h.htm

edit: yep, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GTV05XG/?tag=neogaf0e-20

 

[funkystudent]

I think you could score a U2414H for around 200$ or a bit higher

review: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/dell_u2414h.htm

edit: yep, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GTV05XG/?tag=neogaf0e-20

That model seemed highly recommended from my research but unfortunately not available here for less then 250.

 

[Zombegoast]

Gigabyte motherboards are very reliable. But any motherboard that is cheap in price is going to be build cheap as well.

It's most likey the case my MOBO may have given out. No matter what I do my PC won't start. So I'm getting a ASUS Z170-A ATX DDR4 Motherboard.


Also I lost the screws that came with the Computer Case and have no way of screwing my GPU into the Case. What screws do I need to get to prevent my Gpu from wobbling?

 

[vlaktron]

NCIXUS currently has the LG 34UM88C-P for $560. Seems like a good deal to jump on but I've never dealt with ncixus before, whats your guys opinion of them? Worth ordering from there or should I look elsewhere.

http://www.ncixus.com/products/index.php?sku=133215&promoid=1226

 

[LostMyNarbles]

Does anyone know if Samsung repairs out of warranty SSD's and what it may cost to do so? I have one of the older EVO drives (MZ-7TE250BW) and it has seemingly died on me and the warranty expired in August. Sorry, I know this isn't really build related, but I do not know where else to ask and this seems like the general PC Gaming thread.

 

[Mozendo]

Hey guys. My old man wants to build a general purpose PC. Nothing fancy. His budget is about 500-600 with a case. What do y'all recommend parts wise? Been so far out of the PC hardware loop I wouldn't know where to begin. Help me PC-GAF, you're my only hope.

How about this?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: ADATA Premier SP550 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($60.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 110 Mini ITX Tower Case ($38.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair CXM 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($54.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($85.68 @ My Choice Software)
Monitor: AOC i2267Fw 22.0" 60Hz Monitor ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Logitech MK120 Wired Slim Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($14.33 @ OutletPC)
Total: $569.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-22 20:47 EST-0500

 

[iamblades]

It's most likey the case my MOBO may have given out. No matter what I do my PC won't start. So I'm getting a ASUS Z170-A ATX DDR4 Motherboard.


Also I lost the screws that came with the Computer Case and have no way of screwing my GPU into the Case. What screws do I need to get to prevent my Gpu from wobbling?

6-32 x .25 are the standard pc case screws:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16811993021

You could also grab some 6-32 thumb screws. I replace basically every screw on any case I use with thumbscrews wherever they will fit.

 

[Hazardous Metal]

It's very likely a driver problem. Try updating your LAN adapter driver, it's probably the culprit.

What programs are you using and what are you doing most of the time when this happens? Do you have anti-virus and malware protection? Download and run this program and get back with what it found. The program is called Rkill.

I actually updated my LAN drivers after someone else suggested that to me and I've noticed that the overall speed of increase in RAM usage is drastically reduced. That
said, I'm currently sitting at 9GB usage at idle so the problem is still very much there.

I used a program called Rammap and my NP Pool is very high and keeps increasing. I was told that this means there is a memory leak somewhere.

I also used the Rkill program and everything came back squeaky clean so I don't think it's a virus or malware either. I'm at a loss as to what I should do now.

EDIT: To clarify, I usually have a stream open on one monitor and play a game on my primary monitor. The more games I open and the more web pages I go through, the higher the RAM usage starts to climb.

EDIT 2: May as well throw the Rkill log in here.

Rkill 2.8.4 by Lawrence Abrams (Grinler)
http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/
Copyright 2008-2016 BleepingComputer.com
More Information about Rkill can be found at this link:
http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/topic308364.html

Program started at: 11/22/2016 05:56:31 PM in x64 mode.
Windows Version: Windows 10 Home

Checking for Windows services to stop:

* No malware services found to stop.

Checking for processes to terminate:

* No malware processes found to kill.

Checking Registry for malware related settings:

* No issues found in the Registry.

Resetting .EXE, .COM, & .BAT associations in the Windows Registry.

Performing miscellaneous checks:

* No issues found.

Checking Windows Service Integrity:

* gagp30kx [Missing Service]
* IEEtwCollectorService [Missing Service]
* IoQos [Missing Service]
* nv_agp [Missing Service]
* TimeBroker [Missing Service]
* uagp35 [Missing Service]
* uliagpkx [Missing Service]
* WcsPlugInService [Missing Service]
* wpcfltr [Missing Service]
* WSService [Missing Service]

* agp440 [Missing ImagePath]

* AJRouter => %SystemRoot%\system32\svchost.exe -k LocalServiceNetworkRestricted [Incorrect ImagePath]
* WpnService => %systemroot%\system32\svchost.exe -k netsvcs [Incorrect ImagePath]

* vmicrdv => %SystemRoot%\System32\icsvcext.dll [Incorrect ServiceDLL]
* vmicvss => %SystemRoot%\System32\icsvcext.dll [Incorrect ServiceDLL]

Searching for Missing Digital Signatures:

* No issues found.

Checking HOSTS File:

* No issues found.

Program finished at: 11/22/2016 05:56:43 PM
Execution time: 0 hours(s), 0 minute(s), and 12 seconds(s)

 

[CaptainSmirnov]

NCIXUS currently has the LG 34UM88C-P for $560. Seems like a good deal to jump on but I've never dealt with ncixus before, whats your guys opinion of them? Worth ordering from there or should I look elsewhere.

http://www.ncixus.com/products/index.php?sku=133215&promoid=1226

The few reviews that exist seem to say it is quite good. I'm from Canada but NCIX was ok when buying from them twice, no issues.

 

[Bloodember]

I actually updated my LAN drivers after someone else suggested that to me and I've noticed that the overall speed of increase in RAM usage is drastically reduced. That
said, I'm currently sitting at 9GB usage at idle so the problem is still very much there.

I used a program called Rammap and my NP Pool is very high and keeps increasing. I was told that this means there is a memory leak somewhere.

I also used the Rkill program and everything came back squeaky clean so I don't think it's a virus or malware either. I'm at a loss as to what I should do now.

EDIT: To clarify, I usually have a stream open on one monitor and play a game on my primary monitor. The more games I open and the more web pages I go through, the higher the RAM usage starts to climb.

EDIT 2: May as well throw the Rkill log in here.

Rkill 2.8.4 by Lawrence Abrams (Grinler)
http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/
Copyright 2008-2016 BleepingComputer.com
More Information about Rkill can be found at this link:
http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/topic308364.html

Program started at: 11/22/2016 05:56:31 PM in x64 mode.
Windows Version: Windows 10 Home

Checking for Windows services to stop:

* No malware services found to stop.

Checking for processes to terminate:

* No malware processes found to kill.

Checking Registry for malware related settings:

* No issues found in the Registry.

Resetting .EXE, .COM, & .BAT associations in the Windows Registry.

Performing miscellaneous checks:

* No issues found.

Checking Windows Service Integrity:

* gagp30kx [Missing Service]
* IEEtwCollectorService [Missing Service]
* IoQos [Missing Service]
* nv_agp [Missing Service]
* TimeBroker [Missing Service]
* uagp35 [Missing Service]
* uliagpkx [Missing Service]
* WcsPlugInService [Missing Service]
* wpcfltr [Missing Service]
* WSService [Missing Service]

* agp440 [Missing ImagePath]

* AJRouter => %SystemRoot%system32svchost.exe -k LocalServiceNetworkRestricted [Incorrect ImagePath]
* WpnService => %systemroot%system32svchost.exe -k netsvcs [Incorrect ImagePath]

* vmicrdv => %SystemRoot%System32icsvcext.dll [Incorrect ServiceDLL]
* vmicvss => %SystemRoot%System32icsvcext.dll [Incorrect ServiceDLL]

Searching for Missing Digital Signatures:

* No issues found.

Checking HOSTS File:

* No issues found.

Program finished at: 11/22/2016 05:56:43 PM
Execution time: 0 hours(s), 0 minute(s), and 12 seconds(s)

If your ram keeps going up then yes you have a memory leak somewhere. My normal usage I have 4-6.4gb used.

 

[Mineshaft_Gap]

So I'm one of those early adopters who got gonged by purchasing one of EVGA's early ACX 3.0 equipped GPUs. In my case, the GTX 1080 FTW specifically. I've experienced some odd issues here and there since purchasing this card prior to learning about the VRM problem. Specifically, while gaming my screen would occasionally go black. My computer would stay on but the sound would stop working and I'd lose video. After a minute or so everything would come back on more or less like normal (Precision X may have exited out but this was open for status monitoring ONLY! NO OVERCLOCK!) I'd more or less assumed that this was a driver issue akin to the 144Hz/1440P flicker I used to experience on my ROG Swift.

Fast forward to late October and the whole VRM fiasco came to light. In early November I decided I was better safe than sorry and RMA'd my card. Here we are, 22 days later and my cross-ship GPU finally arrived. This is where things start to get frustrating.

1. WIth the GPU fans and case fans going close to full blast, this card struggles to maintain boost speeds in the low 1900MHz. When all's said and done the card really won't overclock and after it's been cooking for a while we're looking at speeds in the 1800 and low 1900's with high temperatures and HIGH fan speeds. My experience with these cards is that most of them have no problem boosting well into the 2000MHz range and that was my experience with the card that this is replacing. The FTW card is one of the higher end models available and I think it's fair to expect it to perform at least as well as other company's less expensive models.

2. So, the card this came to replace has no trouble staying at around 2050MHz in a fairly restrictive airflow situation (mITX case). Luckily, as I was vacillating on whether or not I should RMA this card I decided to order the VRM thermal pad mod kit from EVGA. At this point I'm thinking "Hmm, maybe I'll just keep the old card and perform the mod." I wanted to avoid this but seeing as how I've LOST the silicon lottery with the new card maybe I ought to give it a shot. Until I noticed this...

The VRAM (not the VRM) modules are making VERY LITTLE contact with the thermal pads on the base plate and several modules aren't making any at all. I've been using this card since July with close to nothing keeping the VRAM modules cool. Before disassembling the card I thought I could see a small gap between the pads and modules when looking closely at the top of the card and disassembly seems to confirm that this is the case. This makes me very worried about lifespan of this product. The thermal mod kit did include pads to replace the existing VRAM modules but I can't help but wonder what (if any) long term damage that's been done to this card from having used it this long in this condition.

3. So I'm at an impasse. I've spoken to EVGA and while I feel the options they've given me are better than what I'd get from Asus or MSI. In this instance it doesn't make much of a difference. If I'd gone with an Asus or EVGA card I wouldn't be in this mess in the first place so their customer service would be moot. Here are they options they've given me.

a. They offered to send another card. This is awfully good customer service on their part BUT it puts me in the position where I'm playing the silicon lotto again (not to mention waiting another month). And now, to be frank, I don't trust EVGA's ACX Coolers.

b. They offered a refund (but I need to pay shipping on one card and they can't/won't reimburse sales tax). This whole process involves me shipping back both cards and waiting for a check. They said the whole process will likely take around a month - month and a half. This WOULD be my ideal solution but I find it unacceptable to be without a card AND without cash until 20-effing-17. Possibly longer because high shipping volume during the holidays.

c. They offered store credit. This will still take 8-10 business days from them receiving the old cards which will cut my wait time down to 3 weeks to 1 month. Not looking a whole lot better here.

Let me say that I know this is better than what I'd get from other companies. Still, my point stands... if I'd gone with a STRIX I wouldn't be in this position in the first place. I'm not particularly happy with any of these solutions. I would consider keeping my OG card with the thermal mod that I applied BUT in order for me to feel comfortable with that solution I feel that it's fair that EVGA should comp an extended warranty on the original card. They are unwilling to do this. The following are solutions that would make me happy.

1. Replace the card with a GTX 1080 FTW Hybrid which does not have ANY of these cooling problems and charge me the difference. If they're willing to give me store credit or a refund I don't understand why they can't just offer this as a solution. I'm willing to pay the difference. The only thing that offering a refund/store credit does is hold my card and money hostage for several weeks to a month. This is a solution that would solve all my problems and get me out of their hair permanently.

2. Comp an extended warranty on the original card. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I feel this card has undergone stress that could diminish its lifespan. An extended warranty on the original would put my mind at ease allow me to continue using the card without fear that it'll die shortly after the warranty expires.

3. Credit my bank account or credit card (instead of taking weeks to issue a check) upon receipt of the old cards. Not 8-10 business days upon receipt of the old cards.

Am I being unreasonable, guys? I mean look... the VRM issue is a shit show in itself but the VRAM issue crosses a line. It's been a major blow to the respect I have for EVGA as a company. Credit where credit is due, I appreciate them willing to work with me as much as they are but I don't feel like it's enough.

 

[Sotha_Sil]

Is there any significant difference between MSI or Sapphire's Nitro+ 480 4GB? I see them going for $200 on Amazon and Newegg (not counting mail-in rebates). I'll probably pick one up as a bridge between now and whatever Vega turns out to be. The Nitro+ comes with Civ VI, so I'm tempted to go that route.

Also, for those of you who have gone through Black Friday sales in the past, is it likely the 6600k can be had for less than the $220 it's going for right now? That's the lowest I've seen it in a while, will probably pull the trigger on it with the 480.

Looks like I should get a pretty nice rig with a monitor and windows 10 for roughly $1100. Exciting times ahead.

 

[lostsupper]

So I'm one of those early adopters who got gonged by purchasing one of EVGA's early ACX 3.0 equipped GPUs. In my case, the GTX 1080 FTW specifically. I've experienced some odd issues here and there since purchasing this card prior to learning about the VRM problem. Specifically, while gaming my screen would occasionally go black. My computer would stay on but the sound would stop working and I'd lose video. After a minute or so everything would come back on more or less like normal (Precision X may have exited out but this was open for status monitoring ONLY! NO OVERCLOCK!) I'd more or less assumed that this was a driver issue akin to the 144Hz/1440P flicker I used to experience on my ROG Swift.

Fast forward to late October and the whole VRM fiasco came to light. In early November I decided I was better safe than sorry and RMA'd my card. Here we are, 22 days later and my cross-ship GPU finally arrived. This is where things start to get frustrating.

1. WIth the GPU fans and case fans going close to full blast, this card struggles to maintain boost speeds in the low 1900MHz. When all's said and done the card really won't overclock and after it's been cooking for a while we're looking at speeds in the 1800 and low 1900's with high temperatures and HIGH fan speeds. My experience with these cards is that most of them have no problem boosting well into the 2000MHz range and that was my experience with the card that this is replacing. The FTW card is one of the higher end models available and I think it's fair to expect it to perform at least as well as other company's less expensive models...

Get refunded. People here like to recommend EVGA because of their warranty, but you're better off not needing to use it. I've had GPU's from Asus, MSI, Gigabyte, and EVGA. I've only had two hardware failures--the only two EVGA cards I've owned.