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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Mr Swine

Banned
That is a pretty damn large jump. I don't think you will notice much different at all going from a 970 to a 1080 in real world usage with that CPU. Maybe doom at 4k or something you will see a difference, at 1080p with that cpu the 1080 will be bottlenecked like crazy.

Is it? So it's preferable that I upgrade the CPU and later down the road the gtx1080?
 
Hi GAF, with BF coming up I wonder if it's worth upgrading my PC (replacing MB, Ram and CPU.

Currently have

I5 3750k
8GB ddr3
ASUS motherboard

I was thinking of getting a

I7 6700k
16GB ddr4 2666mhz ram
ASUS Z170 pro motherboard

Is it worth it if I play games like Starcraft 2, Mafia 3, GTAV, MGS5 and DOOM with my GTX970 or would it be better to just buy a GTX 1080?
1080 would be a way, way bigger boost than upgrading your CPU if you currently have a 970. You should be overclocking your CPU if you aren't already, by the way.

I would go for a 1070, it's about twice as fast as your current card, and leaves some extra money in the bank for your CPU upgrade when you get around to it.
 

LilJoka

Member
So I'm one of those early adopters who got gonged by purchasing one of EVGA's early ACX 3.0 equipped GPUs. In my case, the GTX 1080 FTW specifically. I've experienced some odd issues here and there since purchasing this card prior to learning about the VRM problem. Specifically, while gaming my screen would occasionally go black. My computer would stay on but the sound would stop working and I'd lose video. After a minute or so everything would come back on more or less like normal (Precision X may have exited out but this was open for status monitoring ONLY! NO OVERCLOCK!) I'd more or less assumed that this was a driver issue akin to the 144Hz/1440P flicker I used to experience on my ROG Swift.

Fast forward to late October and the whole VRM fiasco came to light. In early November I decided I was better safe than sorry and RMA'd my card. Here we are, 22 days later and my cross-ship GPU finally arrived. This is where things start to get frustrating.

1. WIth the GPU fans and case fans going close to full blast, this card struggles to maintain boost speeds in the low 1900MHz. When all's said and done the card really won't overclock and after it's been cooking for a while we're looking at speeds in the 1800 and low 1900's with high temperatures and HIGH fan speeds. My experience with these cards is that most of them have no problem boosting well into the 2000MHz range and that was my experience with the card that this is replacing. The FTW card is one of the higher end models available and I think it's fair to expect it to perform at least as well as other company's less expensive models.

2. So, the card this came to replace has no trouble staying at around 2050MHz in a fairly restrictive airflow situation (mITX case). Luckily, as I was vacillating on whether or not I should RMA this card I decided to order the VRM thermal pad mod kit from EVGA. At this point I'm thinking "Hmm, maybe I'll just keep the old card and perform the mod." I wanted to avoid this but seeing as how I've LOST the silicon lottery with the new card maybe I ought to give it a shot. Until I noticed this...




The VRAM (not the VRM) modules are making VERY LITTLE contact with the thermal pads on the base plate and several modules aren't making any at all. I've been using this card since July with close to nothing keeping the VRAM modules cool. Before disassembling the card I thought I could see a small gap between the pads and modules when looking closely at the top of the card and disassembly seems to confirm that this is the case. This makes me very worried about lifespan of this product. The thermal mod kit did include pads to replace the existing VRAM modules but I can't help but wonder what (if any) long term damage that's been done to this card from having used it this long in this condition.

3. So I'm at an impasse. I've spoken to EVGA and while I feel the options they've given me are better than what I'd get from Asus or MSI. In this instance it doesn't make much of a difference. If I'd gone with an Asus or EVGA card I wouldn't be in this mess in the first place so their customer service would be moot. Here are they options they've given me.

a. They offered to send another card. This is awfully good customer service on their part BUT it puts me in the position where I'm playing the silicon lotto again (not to mention waiting another month). And now, to be frank, I don't trust EVGA's ACX Coolers.

b. They offered a refund (but I need to pay shipping on one card and they can't/won't reimburse sales tax). This whole process involves me shipping back both cards and waiting for a check. They said the whole process will likely take around a month - month and a half. This WOULD be my ideal solution but I find it unacceptable to be without a card AND without cash until 20-effing-17. Possibly longer because high shipping volume during the holidays.

c. They offered store credit. This will still take 8-10 business days from them receiving the old cards which will cut my wait time down to 3 weeks to 1 month. Not looking a whole lot better here.

Let me say that I know this is better than what I'd get from other companies. Still, my point stands... if I'd gone with a STRIX I wouldn't be in this position in the first place. I'm not particularly happy with any of these solutions. I would consider keeping my OG card with the thermal mod that I applied BUT in order for me to feel comfortable with that solution I feel that it's fair that EVGA should comp an extended warranty on the original card. They are unwilling to do this. The following are solutions that would make me happy.

1. Replace the card with a GTX 1080 FTW Hybrid which does not have ANY of these cooling problems and charge me the difference. If they're willing to give me store credit or a refund I don't understand why they can't just offer this as a solution. I'm willing to pay the difference. The only thing that offering a refund/store credit does is hold my card and money hostage for several weeks to a month. This is a solution that would solve all my problems and get me out of their hair permanently.

2. Comp an extended warranty on the original card. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I feel this card has undergone stress that could diminish its lifespan. An extended warranty on the original would put my mind at ease allow me to continue using the card without fear that it'll die shortly after the warranty expires.

3. Credit my bank account or credit card (instead of taking weeks to issue a check) upon receipt of the old cards. Not 8-10 business days upon receipt of the old cards.

Am I being unreasonable, guys? I mean look... the VRM issue is a shit show in itself but the VRAM issue crosses a line. It's been a major blow to the respect I have for EVGA as a company. Credit where credit is due, I appreciate them willing to work with me as much as they are but I don't feel like it's enough.

VRAM thermal pad issue has been known since people started opening their cards to fix the VRM. Seems like a QC issue.

I would want all my money back. EVGA should pay for shipping the defective product.
I would take my business elsewhere.
 

Oblivion

Fetishing muscular manly men in skintight hosery
Hey y'all.

I dunno if this is the right thread to ask, but I'm needing a new PC not for gaming but for video editing. I don't know dick about which processors or video cards or whatever are appropriate. I'm planning on editing with the latest version of Adobe Premiere, so I figure I need something powerful.

My budget is around $600.

edit: How's this one?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1INXJK/?tag=neogaf0e-20

or this:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/lenovo-...-2tb-hard-drive-black/4362103.p?skuId=4362103
 

ElyrionX

Member
I am still rocking a 2500K and a 560Ti.

I am thinking of upgrading the GPU to play games like Overwatch, Planet Coaster and Total War: Warhammer.

Should I go for the 1060 as a stop gap solution since I won't be upgrading anything else or should I go straight for the 1070?
 
I am still rocking a 2500K and a 560Ti.

I am thinking of upgrading the GPU to play games like Overwatch, Planet Coaster and Total War: Warhammer.

Should I go for the 1060 as a stop gap solution since I won't be upgrading anything else or should I go straight for the 1070?

I would go for the 1070 personally, though I tend to spend a bit more on GPU upgrades and hang onto them for longer. I assume your CPU is OC'd?
 

Mupod

Member
I'm so used to Canadian 'black friday' being a hilarious waste of time that the price for a 6700k I just saw kind of caught me off guard. I was gonna wait for the 7700k but our dollar might tank further before then, so I'm feeling a bit of a sense of urgency.

Only thing that sucks is those new Samsung m.2 drives are still missing in action, and the 512GB 960 Evo was going to be my system drive. I'm hearing early December for those.
 

dangeROSS

Member
At 1080p, sure. The processor might hold you back some but at that price, you could swap out the cpu, board, ram in a year and still make it a good deal. Cyberpower pc just uses off the shelf parts so you won't run into any strange bios

Ok cool.


Not a fan of the cpu. They have a model with the i5 6402T and the 480 which does. great on 1080p 60fps plus.

Thanks, I think I found that version on Amazon, didn't see one on Best Buy's site. I'll probably wait until that goes on sale and go for that. I appreciate the input!
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
So the Corsair 100v2 is an absolute dog to work with. Those hoses don't flex much at all and trying to make it fit to a height of 85mm is proving near impossible. I stop building last night to prevent frustration from kicking in. Just incase I can't find a solution that's safe for the system, I ordered a Silverstone Tubdra TD02-E from Amazon with same day delivery. Itshoses move around and come out of the side and it gets good reviews. (Plus I'm pairing it with new Noctua FS fans, which should make it even better)
 

enewtabie

Member
Ok cool.




Thanks, I think I found that version on Amazon, didn't see one on Best Buy's site. I'll probably wait until that goes on sale and go for that. I appreciate the input!

It's 6402p(heh typo)..Check out the youtube channel TechDeals. They run that specific pc through a lot of tests on different games.
 

rtcn63

Member
Anyone have an Asrock z77 Extreme4? What SATA cables do you use? I'm more worried about the tight fit of the ports, I want to be able to use all the connectors. Which configuration of cable is preferred (latching, non-latching, right angle, etc.)?
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
Anyone have an Asrock z77 Extreme4? What SATA cables do you use? I'm more worried about the tight fit of the ports, I want to be able to use all the connectors. Which configuration of cable is preferred (latching, non-latching, right angle, etc.)?

I had that board years ago. Worst board I ever used, 2 of them died within 8 months. Watch for bad caps on it. I used all non latching strait cables but my case was super roomy and easy to keep managed.
 

Trickster

Member
Dunno if questions about monitors are relevant in here. If there's a better place to ask, please let me know.

My question is about the Asus rog swift p279q monitor. This monitor is supposed to be one of the very best gaming monitors out there currently. However it's gotten a reputation for often having extensive back light bleeding problems.

What I'm wondering is, have Asus improved in the regard, and gotten their QA problems with the monitor under control? I ask because it seems most articles or videos about this issue is from the earlier half of the year.
 

rtcn63

Member
I had that board years ago. Worst board I ever used, 2 of them died within 8 months. Watch for bad caps on it. I used all non latching strait cables but my case was super roomy and easy to keep managed.

I've actually had it for close to five years, but I want to install an SDD. I've read the Asmedia ports are shit, it's possible I'm running out since I already have two HHDs + an optical drive connected.

Would these do? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200050

And what length?
 

LordAlu

Member
My early 2012 build is starting to fail me (mostly the mobo, random restarts) and I have the opportunity to build another a rig. I was wondering if this would be a suitable build. The only heavy game for me would probably be overwatch.

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/rZ4wkT

Thanks.
Not that bad. You don't need an overclockable i5 for mainly Overwatch, and that Corsair power supply is average. You could drop to a non-overclockable i5 (and suitable board) and get an RX 480 instead which will pretty much guarantee 60-90FPS on the highest settings in Overwatch?

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/sJq9tJ
 

dangeROSS

Member
It's 6402p(heh typo)..Check out the youtube channel TechDeals. They run that specific pc through a lot of tests on different games.

Thanks. Yea I was researching and saw some of those videos. It looks like a solid machine for someone like me who doesn't want to put things together and still have decent specs at a decent price. I imagine Amazon will start having black friday/cyber monday sales soon, and I will keep an eye out for it.

I do really appreciate the info!!
 

Bloodember

Member
Thanks. Yea I was researching and saw some of those videos. It looks like a solid machine for someone like me who doesn't want to put things together and still have decent specs at a decent price. I imagine Amazon will start having black friday/cyber monday sales soon, and I will keep an eye out for it.

I do really appreciate the info!!

Amazon has been having black Friday sales for the last few weeks.
 
So I was reading this post over on Reddit, is it true that AMD cards generally perform better over the long term (years) compared to Nvidia? I admit, I don't try to keep up with the pace of new upgrades for my PC. I still have the same components generally from 2010 when I first built my comp (only GPU, RAM, and HDD have changed) so if this is true, would it be better for me to go for an AMD card when I do decide to upgrade instead of an Nvidia card?
 

Rufus

Member
So I was reading this post over on Reddit, is it true that AMD cards generally perform better over the long term (years) compared to Nvidia? I admit, I don't try to keep up with the pace of new upgrades for my PC. I still have the same components generally from 2010 when I first built my comp (only GPU, RAM, and HDD have changed) so if this is true, would it be better for me to go for an AMD card when I do decide to upgrade instead of an Nvidia card?
I have no idea if that's actually true, but if so, I would point to GCN (which is now in it's fourth iteration, I think) as the reason. I assume it's much easier (cheaper) to offer driver support for older cards because of it.
 

jon bones

hot hot hanuman-on-man action
so i built my new PC a month ago and never had a reason to use Bluetooth

now i'd like to use my DS4 wirelessly but i'm having a hard time figuring out how to get BT working

nothing seems to be finding my PC, but the Device Manager says "This device is working properly." (Qualcomm Atheros QCA61x4A Bluetooth 4.1)

i have an asus z170 mini itx mobo

where should i be looking next?
 

Bloodember

Member
so i built my new PC a month ago and never had a reason to use Bluetooth

now i'd like to use my DS4 wirelessly but i'm having a hard time figuring out how to get BT working

nothing seems to be finding my PC, but the Device Manager says "This device is working properly." (Qualcomm Atheros QCA61x4A Bluetooth 4.1)

i have an asus z170 mini itx mobo

where should i be looking next?

Go to Settings, devices, bluetooth and make sure it is on,and it will show what you can connect too.
 
Hey PCGAF.

Been mulling over this build for a bit, but I think I am ready to pull the trigger. Just wanted to get one last set of knowledgeable eyes on it before I did so.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rxFyqk

I'm grabbing it now because both the i7 6700k and the Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 ATX motherboard are currently cheaper than they've ever been and are highly lauded.

No SSD/HDD as I have some already to go.

Thanks!
 
Hey PCGAF.

Been mulling over this build for a bit, but I think I am ready to pull the trigger. Just wanted to get one last set of knowledgeable eyes on it before I did so.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rxFyqk

I'm grabbing it now because both the i7 6700k and the Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 ATX motherboard are currently cheaper than they've ever been and are highly lauded.

No SSD/HDD as I have some already to go.

Thanks!

Get faster ram, ddr4-3000 or 3200. It's not much more. Do you need the features on that mobo? You can save about $70 by getting something like the gigabyte z170xp-sli. There's probably also a better deal on a power supply somewhere.
 
Get faster ram, ddr4-3000 or 3200. It's not much more. Do you need the features on that mobo? You can save about $70 by getting something like the gigabyte z170xp-sli. There's probably also a better deal on a power supply somewhere.

Ok, for the small price increase I can go DDR4-3000. Any recommendations on MOBO?

I do not plan to SLI ever, though I do like to dabble with OCing here and there. And I would like to have a good deal of USB ports.
 

Bloodember

Member
Ok, for the small price increase I can go DDR4-3000. Any recommendations on MOBO?

I do not plan to SLI ever, though I do like to dabble with OCing here and there. And I would like to have a good deal of USB ports.

If your not going to SLI, look at mATX or mITX boards also.
 

vector824

Member
Hey PCGAF.

Been mulling over this build for a bit, but I think I am ready to pull the trigger. Just wanted to get one last set of knowledgeable eyes on it before I did so.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rxFyqk

I'm grabbing it now because both the i7 6700k and the Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 ATX motherboard are currently cheaper than they've ever been and are highly lauded.

No SSD/HDD as I have some already to go.

Thanks!

Go this route: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/T3dwkT

Better cooler, cheaper mobo, 3000mhz RAM, cheaper but basically the same PSU. Just don't forget those mail in rebates.
 

Lexxism

Member
I seriously need some help. I can't get in to BIOS. I don't see what key needed to get in there. I currently have a Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard.
 
I seriously need some help. I can't get in to BIOS. I don't see what key needed to get in there. I currently have a Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard.
I have nearly the exact same model with mine being the Z97X and it is the delete key. I don't know if they change on a model basis, but I thought it was just a manufacturer difference.
 

Lexxism

Member
I have nearly the exact same model with mine being the Z97X and it is the delete key. I don't know if they change on a model basis, but I thought it was just a manufacturer difference.
That's what I'm actually pressing but it doesn't show the screen on what key I'm supposed to be using. I wonder it was because I used the "fast boot" option.
 
Guys I have a strange question. Has anyone ever cut the metal off parts of their case before?

The reason I ask is that I bought a Hyper 212 Evo cooling fan and the under part of the motherboard doesn't quite line up with the square hole cut out of the case to attach the cooling fans backplate. It would only be a couple of inches off the left hand side, and nothing the motherboard is attached to. Just wondering if this is a good idea?
 
Guys I have a strange question. Has anyone ever cut the metal off parts of their case before?

The reason I ask is that I bought a Hyper 212 Evo cooling fan and the under part of the motherboard doesn't quite line up with the square hole cut out of the case to attach the cooling fans backplate. It would only be a couple of inches off the left hand side, and nothing the motherboard is attached to. Just wondering if this is a good idea?

Oh yeah, people take dremels to their cases all the time. Just use common sense and you'll be fine.
 

nightmare-slain

Gold Member
Guys I have a strange question. Has anyone ever cut the metal off parts of their case before?

The reason I ask is that I bought a Hyper 212 Evo cooling fan and the under part of the motherboard doesn't quite line up with the square hole cut out of the case to attach the cooling fans backplate. It would only be a couple of inches off the left hand side, and nothing the motherboard is attached to. Just wondering if this is a good idea?

If you're just making space for the cpu backplate you will be fine. As long as your motherboard is attached on all its mounts and no pieces of metal touch it you should be ok to customise your case as you like.
 

BorntoPlay

Member
I win this Custom Built PC on twitter, tell me this is legit, please!?!

9tpZDaa.jpg
 

Zynx

Member
Hi all, can you recommend any trustworthy sites with good recommendations for components with good performance with price (I'm looking at anandtech)? OP seems a little out of date. I've been looking around at some of the build a pc subreddits and haven't really drawn any conclusions.

Also, if anyone can spare the time to suggest a build for me, I would be grateful.


[*]Your Current Specs: CPU / RAM / Motherboard / GPU (Graphics) / PSU (Power Supply) / Case / HDD (Hard Drive)
N/A - want a new build

[*]Budget: Price Range + Country
~$1500-1800 Canadian, in Canada. If I can get everything from NCIX I might just consider paying them to put everything together for me to save time.

[*]Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming, Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii/Wii U), Video Editing, Streaming games in HD, 3D/Model work (and what program), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback).
5: Gaming, Game development with Unity
3: Emulation: Dolphin and Citra I guess?

[*]Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? Are you going to upgrade later? Are you buying a new monitor?
I don't mind 1080p, but does it make sense to go for 2k or more on my budget? I'll need a new monitor if it's not 1080p. What if I want to run dual monitors?

[*]List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 144? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you?
Nothing particular in mind now.

[*]Looking to reuse any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 750TX, 640GB SATA HDD, Antec 900)
No

[*]When will you build?: Do you have a deadline?
If I can decide on something in a few days and there's a good deal on black friday/cyber monday that'd be nice, but if I miss the sale I'm not in any particular hurry.

[*]Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!)
Yes I guess? Will be my first time though.
 
Get refunded. People here like to recommend EVGA because of their warranty, but you're better off not needing to use it. I've had GPU's from Asus, MSI, Gigabyte, and EVGA. I've only had two hardware failures--the only two EVGA cards I've owned.

Evga warranties are good though especially if you buy used. My rma experiences have been difficult with Asus and msi, they need you to upload your receipt for any rma processing to go through. So if you get a used gpu from them you are basically hoping nothing happens. Evga will honor their warranty even if you buy the card used which is a big relief imo.

But yea if you are buying new, best to avoid evga for now.
 
CPU: Intel i5-6600K 3.5GHz
M B: Gigabyte GA-Z170N-WIFI
RAM: Corsair CMK16GX4M2A2666C16
SSD: Samsung 850 EVO
PSU: SilverStone SST-SX500-LG
GPU: Nvidia 1070 Reduced length Gigabyte GV-N1070IXOC-8GD
Case: SilverStone Sugo Mini-ITX SST-SG05BB-LITE

Total: ¥138,243

Here's my current mulling it over PC guys. What do you think? Anywhere I can cut a corner or two to reduce the price a smidgen. Obviously the cheaper the better but this seems like a viable build in terms of cost at the moment.

Mostly gaming related and video play back. For games were talking current games for at least the next 3 years hopefully. Emulation, PS2/Dolphin (I realize these are a bit of a crapshoot sometimes no matter what your running). 30FPS isn't too big a deal for me outside of really fast paced games where it would matter, aka quick action games that just feel better at 60FPS (Devil May Cry ect.) Fighters (Street Fighter, Guilty Gear), fast shooters (Doom, Overwatch) everything else like RPGs, don't matter as long as it's stable.
 

z3phon

Member
Looking for some advice on which GTX 1080 to get. I've got the Evga 1080 FTW and I can get it replaced with any other brand 1080 they have in stock currently.
I'm considering one out of these three.
MSI GTX1080 GAMING X 8G
Asus ROG STRIX GTX1080 OC Currently backordered. If the OC is better than the Advanced gaming edition I could try holding off to get the OC.
Asus ROG Strix GTX 1080 A8G Advanced Gaming Edition
Would really appreciate some help. Also are the resale values any different between the brands or are they all just as easy to sell off?
 

kuYuri

Member
Looking for some advice on which GTX 1080 to get. I've got the Evga 1080 FTW and I can get it replaced with any other brand 1080 they have in stock currently.
I'm considering one out of these three.
MSI GTX1080 GAMING X 8G
Asus ROG STRIX GTX1080 OC Currently backordered. If the OC is better than the Advanced gaming edition I could try holding off to get the OC.
Asus ROG Strix GTX 1080 A8G Advanced Gaming Edition
Would really appreciate some help. Also are the resale values any different between the brands or are they all just as easy to sell off?

Go with the MSI if you want a smaller card or prefer the aesthetics. The Asus OC one is just a higher overclocked version of the advanced one, they are pretty much identical beyond that. The Asus card is bigger compared to MSI since it's three fans. The LEDs on the Asus are more prominent compared to the MSI and should come through more if you have a windowed case. Honestly you could flip a coin with either one, I'd say go for the cheapest one of the three unless you are into GPU aesthetics.
 

Bloodember

Member
Hi all, can you recommend any trustworthy sites with good recommendations for components with good performance with price (I'm looking at anandtech)? OP seems a little out of date. I've been looking around at some of the build a pc subreddits and haven't really drawn any conclusions.

Also, if anyone can spare the time to suggest a build for me, I would be grateful.


[*]Your Current Specs: CPU / RAM / Motherboard / GPU (Graphics) / PSU (Power Supply) / Case / HDD (Hard Drive)
N/A - want a new build

[*]Budget: Price Range + Country
~$1500-1800 Canadian, in Canada. If I can get everything from NCIX I might just consider paying them to put everything together for me to save time.

[*]Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming, Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii/Wii U), Video Editing, Streaming games in HD, 3D/Model work (and what program), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback).
5: Gaming, Game development with Unity
3: Emulation: Dolphin and Citra I guess?

[*]Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? Are you going to upgrade later? Are you buying a new monitor?
I don't mind 1080p, but does it make sense to go for 2k or more on my budget? I'll need a new monitor if it's not 1080p. What if I want to run dual monitors?

[*]List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 144? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you?
Nothing particular in mind now.

[*]Looking to reuse any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 750TX, 640GB SATA HDD, Antec 900)
No

[*]When will you build?: Do you have a deadline?
If I can decide on something in a few days and there's a good deal on black friday/cyber monday that'd be nice, but if I miss the sale I'm not in any particular hurry.

[*]Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!)
Yes I guess? Will be my first time though.

Where you located?
 
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