I looked at this one briefly but might have scanned over it too quickly, will definitely take another look! Thanks for the heads up. I actually prefer the 24-25 inch size to the popular 27 inch so that's alright by me.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
I looked at this one briefly but might have scanned over it too quickly, will definitely take another look! Thanks for the heads up. I actually prefer the 24-25 inch size to the popular 27 inch so that's alright by me.
Yes, on Amazon. Although if you can get Crucials or another well-known brand for significantly cheaper, go for those. Real-world use won't be hugely different.
Cool, thanks. I see the 250GB with the mount is only $87 on Amazon right now. It was $102 when I added a few days ago.
Any insight on monitor question?
I'd probably go Dell with regards to monitors. They tend be used by a lot of people and their customer support is decent. They were what I were look at when I thought monitor was failing recently. If it's just gonna be office work- I'd recommend 1440p (or higher) + large size for spreadsheets. The extra real estate will be helpful, although if you're looking for multiple monitors on a budget, probably not a great idea.
QuantumSquid
Member
IPS = More vibrant and accurate colors, amazing viewing angles so there's no discoloration when looking at the screen from an angle that isn't straight-on.
TN = Less vibrant colors (not terrible, just less vibrant), and significantly worse viewing angles. Important to look at the screen from right in front of it, as opposed to from the side.
Thanks all for the info and those I didnt quote. Think Ive settled on this one \http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236294&ignorebbr=1
2k, IPS, 75Hz is good not great. Plan on doing a lot of photoshop and unity work so I figured I needed a working monitor more than a gaming one. Thanks all for the help.
Well i always play with vsync since I am allergic to tearing.
Only turn it off in benchmarks in games.
And since I got a solid 60fps in most titles with i3 @ ultra 1080P settings its hard to notice the difference
In Far cry 4 the i3 dipped to 50fps in some of the corners in the village were the i5 is steady at 60fps. Thats the biggest difference yet
(Offtopic rant-
Btw. Vsync is also great to keep things cooler.
Tried the tomb raider benchmark with both vsync on and off.
With vsync off the gpu was at 68 degrees c and the cpu was 29deg c.
With vsync on you only got 55degrees c on the gpu and 27 on cpu.
The fans on the gpu was just idling and you cant hear them.
That's a relief, thanks.
Celcius
°Temp. member
I currently have Windows 10 Pro but I've been reading about how Windows 10 Home Edition automatically installs the latest updates as soon as they are available and doesn't give you a choice to delay them. When this happens does the OS force you to reboot the PC within a few minutes, or does it reboot the machine automatically (with hopefully a warning first), or something else?
I'm still on the fence about home vs pro for another build and would really like to know this.
I'm still on the fence about home vs pro for another build and would really like to know this.
Definitely had my machines just up and reboot in the middle of my work to finish installing updates. Pain in the ass. It reopened them upon restarting but I don't feel great about it.
Celcius
°Temp. member
Thanks, Pro it is then.
crap monkey
Member
So I just made some major upgrades to my comp, got a new CPU+ MOBO as well as some new RAM, PSU, and case. Is there anything I should know ahead of time when swapping out the MOBO and CPU? I should do a clean install of my OS so I don't have to worry about driver issues and whatnot, correct? But other than that, anything I should know?
I also have a question about GPU upgrades, I've got a GTX 760 I picked up back in early 2014. It's been good so far, the problem is that it only has 2 GB of VRAM. How much am I being held back by this? I'm looking to upgrade to an RX 480, or even a GTX 1060 but I'm not sure which is best for me. The 480 is 200$ for the 4GB, but only another 50$ for the 8GB version. On the other hand a GTX 1060 is about 300$. I want to avoid upgrading anything for as long as possible, What gives me the best option for the price?
I also have a question about GPU upgrades, I've got a GTX 760 I picked up back in early 2014. It's been good so far, the problem is that it only has 2 GB of VRAM. How much am I being held back by this? I'm looking to upgrade to an RX 480, or even a GTX 1060 but I'm not sure which is best for me. The 480 is 200$ for the 4GB, but only another 50$ for the 8GB version. On the other hand a GTX 1060 is about 300$. I want to avoid upgrading anything for as long as possible, What gives me the best option for the price?
Vincent Alexander
Member
I just got a new desk I really like, but it won't fit my 27" 1440p monitor (Doublesight DS-279W). I'm going to sell my current monitor and grab myself a 1080 144Hz monitor. I'm seeing a bunch of ones that are between 150 to 300, but I'm afraid to just impulse buy one. Anyone know of anything good with a decent price right now that they'd recommend?
MrCunningham
Member
I need some advice.
First Question:
A friend of mind is looking to buy this motherboard: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128841 (GIGABYTE GA-Z170XP-SLI)
with this cpu: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117559&cm_re=6700k-_-19-117-559-_-Product (Skylake i7 6700k)
The Skylake CPU's do not come with stock coolers, so what type of cooler and heat sync would people here recommend? I am not looking for a crazy cooler. Something cheap, maybe under 40 dollars Canadian.
Now, my friend is not going to be doing any extreme overclocking, he might even run this system at stock speeds.
Is the stock Intel cooler worth picking up? : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013U542QE/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Or what about something like this? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B005O65JXI/ (Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO)
What would be a good recommended CPU cooler?
Second question:
what speed of RAM would be recommended with this motherboard? The GIGABYTE GA-Z170XP-SLI supports the following speeds: DDR4 3466*(*O.C.)/ 3400*/ 3333*/ 3300*/ 3200*/ 3000*/ 2800*/ 2666*/ 2400*/ 2133
But everything above 2133 needs to be overclocked. I am looking at DDR4 3000 for this motherboard, would it be a good fit?
Third question:
Can anyone recommend some Solid State Drive options? Maybe 1TB?
The "unexpected warning" in the OP chart has me a bit lost here. what would it mean by Battery Back up? An internal battery that goes inside the case? I honestly still don;t have an SDD drive myself and I need some advice on this.
First Question:
A friend of mind is looking to buy this motherboard: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128841 (GIGABYTE GA-Z170XP-SLI)
with this cpu: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117559&cm_re=6700k-_-19-117-559-_-Product (Skylake i7 6700k)
The Skylake CPU's do not come with stock coolers, so what type of cooler and heat sync would people here recommend? I am not looking for a crazy cooler. Something cheap, maybe under 40 dollars Canadian.
Now, my friend is not going to be doing any extreme overclocking, he might even run this system at stock speeds.
Is the stock Intel cooler worth picking up? : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013U542QE/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Or what about something like this? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B005O65JXI/ (Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO)
What would be a good recommended CPU cooler?
Second question:
what speed of RAM would be recommended with this motherboard? The GIGABYTE GA-Z170XP-SLI supports the following speeds: DDR4 3466*(*O.C.)/ 3400*/ 3333*/ 3300*/ 3200*/ 3000*/ 2800*/ 2666*/ 2400*/ 2133
But everything above 2133 needs to be overclocked. I am looking at DDR4 3000 for this motherboard, would it be a good fit?
Third question:
Can anyone recommend some Solid State Drive options? Maybe 1TB?
The "unexpected warning" in the OP chart has me a bit lost here. what would it mean by Battery Back up? An internal battery that goes inside the case? I honestly still don;t have an SDD drive myself and I need some advice on this.
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
Weird, did you see Creative partnered with Massdrop to release a soundbar for your pc??
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/creative-sound-blasterx-katana
Its maybe kinda cool?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/creative-sound-blasterx-katana
Its maybe kinda cool?
QuantumSquid
Member
1. Get the Hyper 212 EVO.
2. DDR4-3000 is fine. RAM speed isn't super-duper important, so as long as the motherboard supports it, you're good to go.
3. 1TB SSDs are extremely expensive. I'd go for a 250 or 500 GB SSD from Samsung or OCZ Trion.
MrCunningham
Member
Thanks for the answers. This is the first Intel CPU that I ordered (someone is paying me) that didn't include a stock cooler. I don't build PC's that often, but I was thrown off by the CPU cooler options. The Hyper 212 EVO looks a bit big, but it will probably still work just fine.
As for the SSD, I was looking at a 960GB SanDisk Ultra II 2.5" for $300 (Canadian), which is not that bad. What is SanDisk's reputation as an SSD manufacturer? Their SD cards have always been good. Also. I will also look at Samsung and OCZ.
1TB: $460.99 Canadian
500GB: $229.00 Canadian
Ahh, the crap Canadian dollar makes the price of the 1TB model a bit out of my reach. The 500GB model... maybe. But thanks for the heads up, though.
Figured I'd ask here instead of making a thread...
OK, my PC clock is always losing the time and I have no idea why. The past few months, randomly, I'll notice my PC clock is hours behind the actual time and I have to manually fix it by right clicking it, choosing "Adjust Date/Time" -> Toggle the "Set time automatically" button "OFF", then back to "ON". This will fix the time 90% of the time, but even then, sometimes it just hangs and won't update it. I'll just leave it alone, then try again later in half an hour or later and it'll work.
I'm at my wits end trying to figure out what's exactly causing this. My PC does not go to "Sleep", just the monitors turn off after half an hour. I'm on Windows 10 with all latest updates. I connect to the internet via wifi, but haven't noticed any interruptions in connectivity causing any issues. I've tried all the different internet Windows time settings to see if that was the issue, but it doesn't seem to matter. I'm not sure if it's a mother board battery dying on me, my secondary hard drive going to sleep, or something else.
Any ideas?
OK, my PC clock is always losing the time and I have no idea why. The past few months, randomly, I'll notice my PC clock is hours behind the actual time and I have to manually fix it by right clicking it, choosing "Adjust Date/Time" -> Toggle the "Set time automatically" button "OFF", then back to "ON". This will fix the time 90% of the time, but even then, sometimes it just hangs and won't update it. I'll just leave it alone, then try again later in half an hour or later and it'll work.
I'm at my wits end trying to figure out what's exactly causing this. My PC does not go to "Sleep", just the monitors turn off after half an hour. I'm on Windows 10 with all latest updates. I connect to the internet via wifi, but haven't noticed any interruptions in connectivity causing any issues. I've tried all the different internet Windows time settings to see if that was the issue, but it doesn't seem to matter. I'm not sure if it's a mother board battery dying on me, my secondary hard drive going to sleep, or something else.
Any ideas?
The new build is alive:
The Sea Hawk EK X is insane. I have it stable at 2152/5509 and it hasn't hit 40 C yet. might mess around with the power to see if I can bump the core clock up a bit more, but I don't really need it, this build is complete overkill for my needs.
Need to do some manual tuning on the CPU, I just turned on the game boost to set it at 4.4k and went.
Still need to do a whole bunch of cable management and redo a couple tubes, but it's working.
The Sea Hawk EK X is insane. I have it stable at 2152/5509 and it hasn't hit 40 C yet. might mess around with the power to see if I can bump the core clock up a bit more, but I don't really need it, this build is complete overkill for my needs.
Need to do some manual tuning on the CPU, I just turned on the game boost to set it at 4.4k and went.
Still need to do a whole bunch of cable management and redo a couple tubes, but it's working.
Celcius
°Temp. member
Nice, be sure to post pics once you get the cable management sorted
shanafan
Member
Been playing with my video settings in Infinite Warfare and my 1070, and when I turn "Sync Every Frame" off, I get on average 90 FPS. The game plays fine, but there is screen tearing. How can I achieve 90 FPS and no screen tearing? Would I need a monitor with a higher refresh rate than 60?
Thanks
Thanks
Yes. It would be impossible for your screen to display anything more than 60 frames per second.
Hey guys, I'm a total noob when it comes to computer building. I just finished building my computer and everything is working great, but I have one problem. I wanted to move my 3 hard drives from my old computer to this new one, but the case only came with two hard drive holder things, so now one of my hard drives is still sitting in my old computer. The case I got was the Phanteks Eclipse P400S. Anyone know where I can even go to buy these things in the picture?
The Pro series is superior to the Evo series in virtually all respects. At a significant price premium. None of the Pro's advantages manifest while playing videogames.
Are you talking about the 850 series SATA drives or the 950/960 series PCIe drives?
Speed benchmarks vs. cost. The difference is very small in practice. Also, the pro comes with a presumably longer life (10 year warranty vs 5) but they haven't been long around enough to make any real observations in that regard. Assuming we're not talking about older models I'd just go for the better value. If you find a sale where they're both the same, pro is better. Otherwise it doesn't really matter. I have a 250gb pro for Windows and installed apps and put all my games on a 1 tb evo. I didn't notice any speed boosts when I did use my pro for a few games. I'm confident my evo will last forever but that's mainly because I have all temp folder/user folder functions on regular drives on top of the fact SSD's are very reliable at this point already. Maybe if you're storing data you might want to go for a pro.
Don't know about the 960, but I was looking on amazon with a friend who's helping me get a new rig together and all he said was pro was recommended since I'm looking to build a PC that can last after haven't really truly gamed at all on an Intel HD 3000 and worse in the past few years on a laptop. I was hoping GAF could help and when I was looking at enthusiasts parts, I noticed that only the evo was recommended
Thanks
Here is the thing you need to buy: http://www.phanteks.com/PH-HDDKT2.html
On Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817972004
I believe people call those hard drive holder things "sleds." Your case seems to be optimized for a front-mounted liquid cooling radiator, so there are no more 3.5in HDD brackets. Luckily, it's got all these nifty modular expansion mounts. The downside is that they're proprietary.
I just checked the S.M.A.R.T. data on my almost-two-year-old 250GB 850 EVO. I have written 7.7TB of data in its lifetime. It's rated write endurance is 40TB per day - for five years.
If you've got the money, go ahead and get the Pro. It just seems unlikely you'll ever be able to tell the difference. Peace of mind, I suppose.
VlaudTheImpaler
tl;dr
If you are wanting something for work as well as gaming then you can't go wrong with a 21:9 monitor.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=838097
So flipping much work space it is amazing. Especially with a 3440X1440p 21:9 IPS monitor paired with a gtx 1080 (This is my setup). It's really the perfect sweetspot atm. I can run almost any game at ultra and at a solid 60fps and in most occasions have room to spare. The best part is that at native 1440p I don't even feel the need to downsample anymore for newer games like I used to on my old 1080p screen and I can put that headroom towards more demanding settings and or mods, it looks that nice.
Thanks. Do you have any recommendations/ advice for someone who has never had an sad before? My friend's advice is to only install the os and drivers with only games that I know I won't be installing back and forth for better performance. I probably should get into the habit of not consistently clicking next on install screens for apps and make sure I'm not installing into the ssd
Scythe Fuma is the best CPU cooler you can get under $50
If you want cheaper options
Artic Cooling i32
BeQuiet! Pure Rock
Cryorig H7
Raijintek Aidos
Raijintek Themis
Do not get the Hyper 212 EVO, it's just a popular CPU cooler that performs on par with $20 and if you want to spend that much might as well get a Cryorig m9i. Even with MIR skip loud and cheap $3 fan garbage cooler
This should work on your P400S
You can tell W10 a 12hr window in which not to do updates. Most people never set this. I've never had w10 reboot on me.
If you're on Windows 7, make sure TRIM is enabled.
I install pretty much every non-game app on my SSD. For bigger stuff (Adobe suite) it's worth it. For videogames, yeah - you should definitely swap back and forth. And only use the SSD space for games that will benefit. Open-world stuff (Skyrim), heavily modded games (XCOM), and maybe some games that autosave often (Metal Gear Solid V, The Witness). Also, anything you play often. SSDs operate silently, and mechanical drives are often the loudest part of your PC.
j0hnny_385
Member
Hey everyone!
I need a new PC for my grandma.
Something low power and cheap.
Only, and I mean ONLY use is surfing the web, youtube and playing web games (flash, facebook games, etc.).
I need a:
-case
-MBO
-CPU
-RAM
-HDD
-PSU
- a good Wi-Fi card
Thanks!
I need a new PC for my grandma.
Something low power and cheap.
Only, and I mean ONLY use is surfing the web, youtube and playing web games (flash, facebook games, etc.).
I need a:
-case
-MBO
-CPU
-RAM
-HDD
-PSU
- a good Wi-Fi card
Thanks!
Can you fill out the basic desktop questions located in the first page.
Hard to recommend you a build when we know nothing about your budget
One question, now when I've changed from i3 6100 to i5 6500, games like battlefield 1 uses way more cpu than before.
I use MSI Afterburner, and before the cpu was at 75% on i3, now its up to 85% on the i5.
The FPS is the same (steady 60FPS with vsync on).
So now the i5 is more of a bottleneck in BF1 than the i3?.
All cores on the i5 is active of course, but guess maybe its the lower clockspeed of the i5 that might do this?
edit: or should I not look too much into the numbers MSI afterburner gives me?
I use MSI Afterburner, and before the cpu was at 75% on i3, now its up to 85% on the i5.
The FPS is the same (steady 60FPS with vsync on).
So now the i5 is more of a bottleneck in BF1 than the i3?.
All cores on the i5 is active of course, but guess maybe its the lower clockspeed of the i5 that might do this?
edit: or should I not look too much into the numbers MSI afterburner gives me?
Are you testing the exact same scenario?
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
check the framerates without vsync and you'll see how many more the i5 is giving you compared to the i3. I think as long as the temperature and performance is normal then it's not much to worry about. an i5 is much better than an i3. if anything it should decrease any bottlenecking. i'm not 100% sure if it's the reason but keep in mind than an i5 is quadcore/no hyperthreading and an i3 is dualcore w/hyperthreading. a game like Battlefield will surely be using hyperthreading. maybe that explains the difference in usages. like you said it may be due to the lower clock speeds. it's not really much of a bottle neck unless your CPU is running 100% and your GPU usage is low. that means the GPU is way more powerful and is having to wait for the CPU to catch up which is why it would be working harder but ideally you should see a GPU at full load with the CPU well under 100% because GPU's are doing a lot of the work during gaming so the CPU isn't pushed as hard.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Pentium G4400 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor ($57.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($42.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($46.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($24.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 450W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($16.98 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.99 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Total: $268.71
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-27 05:03 EST-0500
exactly the same settings, have not changed one single setting.
tried V-sync off, and not sure the framerates got any better really. (i think they are about the same as before)
But are you in the exact same spot in the game?
Turning vsync off won't matter if you are GPU limited (100% GPU usage).
So I've been off work for 12 days, no problems with my home network at all, haven't been for the 8 months I've lived there.
I go to work for 9 days 120 miles from home (stay with family) and the network has gone to shit.
My server at first just wasn't connecting to the network despite everything saying it should, and the wifi (2x Unifi UAP-LRs) was dropping out too. My PC was fine however. All connect to a patch panel and from there to a 16 port gigabit switch, and from there to my crappy Sky Router.
So I'm poking things from work on my PC and trying to work stuff out with my wife doing on site support. I reboot my PC and now that won't connect either. CURSE YOU!
I go to work for 9 days 120 miles from home (stay with family) and the network has gone to shit.
My server at first just wasn't connecting to the network despite everything saying it should, and the wifi (2x Unifi UAP-LRs) was dropping out too. My PC was fine however. All connect to a patch panel and from there to a 16 port gigabit switch, and from there to my crappy Sky Router.
So I'm poking things from work on my PC and trying to work stuff out with my wife doing on site support. I reboot my PC and now that won't connect either. CURSE YOU!
Nostremitus
Member
Honestly, she'd probably be fine with a NUC or Chromebox...
I mean, with the i3 the framerate with v-sync off was around 90-110fps in BF1, and it seems to be around the same now using the i5.
and yes, im in the same spot.
Why do people buy that fast memory when the cpu only handles 2133MHz anyway?.
Or does it change when you overclock, and thats when you need faster memory?.
Cause the memory controller on i3, i5, and i7 only supports up to 2133MHz, but I guess there is some other benefit when overclocking maybe.
edit: or is it latency that gets better?
- Status