I had the same problem with my new build so I chose the Intel 600p which is around that price point (256GB version).
I obviously isn't as fast as a 960 EVO but it is faster than a SATA SSD like the 850 EVO.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
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I had the same problem with my new build so I chose the Intel 600p which is around that price point (256GB version).
I obviously isn't as fast as a 960 EVO but it is faster than a SATA SSD like the 850 EVO.
ISee
Member
Was thinking about the Plextor M8Pe or the Toshiba OCZ RD400 but everything is sold out. WTF is happening.
Coulomb_Barrier
Member
Wait for AMD Ryzen's 8-core 6900K competitor. Leaks and calculatioms have put the IPC between Haswell and Broadwell but apparently conservative leaks reveal it can overclock to 4.5Ghz on top as well. So in real terms you're looking at 5% less performance than a Kaby Lake HEDT clock-for-clock, but likely hundreds of dollars less money (Ryzen 8C/16t compared to Intel's 6900K).
Got some time off coming up so thought i'd get to ordering the parts for my build.
Decided to go for:
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor.
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9x65 33.8 CFM CPU Cooler.
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard.
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory.
Storage: Crucial MX300 525GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive.
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive.
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1080 8GB ROG STRIX Video Card.
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case.
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply.
Thanks to the guys who previously helped answer my questions.
Will pick up Windows 10 from Play-Asia if they are legit.
Decided to go for:
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor.
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9x65 33.8 CFM CPU Cooler.
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard.
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory.
Storage: Crucial MX300 525GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive.
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive.
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1080 8GB ROG STRIX Video Card.
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case.
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply.
Thanks to the guys who previously helped answer my questions.
Will pick up Windows 10 from Play-Asia if they are legit.
TatteredHat
Member
Mhm I think I might as well hold off on building my PC until Ryzen is out, providing it'll be competitive.
Hmm anyone had their firefox sessions all logged out randomly?
When I turned off my PC few hours ago I was still logged in to all the pages, and just now when I turned it on and opened firefox, I was logged out of all the pages, and have to re-login again. Not sure what happened.
When I turned off my PC few hours ago I was still logged in to all the pages, and just now when I turned it on and opened firefox, I was logged out of all the pages, and have to re-login again. Not sure what happened.
Dave_6
Member
I wonder if would even be worth me getting one when I'm still using a 3570K and 8 gigs of RAM? I have thought about a complete upgrade once the 1080ti releases if it isn't crazy expensive.
Nyteshade517
Member
How has the 600p been for you?
I ordered my new build on Friday night so until tomorrow or Tuesday I won't get the parts.
From what I've heard, it's a good SSD for the price. I just wanted something faster than my current 850 EVO and the 600p is faster.
lostsupper
Banned
That cooler is a poor choice. It's designed for really space-constriced builds, which the Nano S is not. You can fit up to a D15 in that case. Also you can get the same clock speed, but lower latency RAM for cheaper from G.Skill.
Nyteshade517
Member
alright...once you get everything up and running I'd like to see your thoughts on it
looking at getting one myself
JonnyDBrit
Member
I mean, on older titles it could sorta do, but on anything since the generation shift, uh... yeah. Well, see if you can pick up a 1070?
I havent decided yet, maybe 1080p could look ok with the tv processing the upscaling since its twice the res.
I have a plan for 4K output, i can send audio via Intel onboard HDMI to the AV RX, then send the GPU HDMI direct to the TV. Just more wiring though, already have a pile of snakes behind the TV - 12 240v outlets being used lol.
No money for a GPU upgrade, hopefully at 3m viewing distance its not too bad. I hope!
I got the 65" LG B6 OLED coming
JonnyDBrit
Member
I havent decided yet, maybe 1080p could look ok with the tv processing the upscaling since its twice the res.
I have a plan for 4K output, i can send audio via Intel onboard HDMI to the AV RX, then send the GPU HDMI direct to the TV. Just more wiring though, already have a pile of snakes behind the TV - 12 240v outlets being used lol.
No money for a GPU upgrade, hopefully at 3m viewing distance its not too bad. I hope!
I got the 65" LG B6 OLED coming
Ha, nice. My family got the LG 49UH850V recently - having tried Netflix, 1080p still looks nice on a 4K TV, so don't be too put off at playing at lower resolutions for a while. Just make sure as best you can that your HDMI cable is properly rated for it.
Will post here when I receive all the parts and it won't be too long until I build it as I really need a new computer.
The BenQ has basically what is ULMB.
SirMossyBloke
Member
Quick question guys.
Just OCed my i54690k to 4.2 with 1.2 voltage. Using Prime95 the temp on two of my cores seems to max at around 86 degrees and 89 degrees, the other two stay under 80. Would this be a safe OC to run for gaming needs? I read that Prime95 stresses a CPU way more than it would actually need.
Just OCed my i54690k to 4.2 with 1.2 voltage. Using Prime95 the temp on two of my cores seems to max at around 86 degrees and 89 degrees, the other two stay under 80. Would this be a safe OC to run for gaming needs? I read that Prime95 stresses a CPU way more than it would actually need.
ISee
Member
90°C is definitely in the red zone, you should stop prime95 once you reach that kind of temperatures! (Actually even before that)
But 4.2 @ 1.2v is actually quiet good and you should be fine in normal gaming scenarios and yes prime95 is extremely 'over'taxing. Try Aida64, it's a bit more realistic.
SirMossyBloke
Member
Thank you! It did reach that temperature in less than a minute. Is this a concern?
I would say thats a bit toasty, that said the TCase for the 4690k is about 73c, so with cores at those temps your likely still under, and Prime is indeed a worse case scenario, for gaming you'd probably be staying under 80c on all cores.
Its up to you really as it is still within the thermal limits, "safe" is about how much risk each person is willing to take, i targetted my 4790k to 70c in prime tests which got me to 4.6ghz @ 1.225v, i can get 4.8ghz at 1.28v but that puts my temps at about 82c on all cores after a few hours of prime which was a little too high for my liking.
ISee
Member
That's very fast, even for prime. What cooler are you using and did you apply the thermal paste yourself?
SirMossyBloke
Member
Thank you.
I have a Hyper 212 as it was recommended and yes, I did apply it myself. I used Arctic Silver.
ISee
Member
The Arctic Stuff is actually quiet good, the hyper 212 is a bit overrated (IMO) but it should get the job done in this oc range. Maybe test temperatures using other stress tests (e.g. aida 64) on stock and oc clocks for comparison. If they're still unreasonably high you could try to reapply the thermal paste (just apply a pea size dot in the middle, after cleaning) and test again. Also check if the fan is spinning, clean the heatpipes from dust etc.
SirMossyBloke
Member
Thanks for all your help, I'll try those ideas.
Is the voltage you're using the minimum you need to get it stable at that speed? or did you just jump it up to hit 4.2?
Around 80 is what I run for prime95.
For haswell you should not use the latest prime, but instead v27.9 without AVX instructions. Or change the setting in 28.10 to disable AVX.
What is the load vcore in CPUz?
SirMossyBloke
Member
I actually lowered it slightly from 1.25. At this point I haven't actually tested for stability as the core temp went too high too fast.
Oh, I didn't know about the Prime version. I'll definitely change that then, the tutorial didn't mention it. I didn't see what the load score was in cpu-z so I'll check once I run the older version.
You can't reference the bios vcore, it's just a target and load line calibration can be causing all sorts of resulting vcore. Need to read it via CPUz and then compare to what you see online and other people's systems.
Since temps are high, just start by finding the lowest vcore it'll boot with, then up it by 0.02v and start stess testing.
And as I've mentioned LLC, read up on how to set this for your board manufacture & series.
SirMossyBloke
Member
I actually just ran Prime95 with the older version and now max temp is 79 degrees on one core and less on the others. I believe I found my issue. Now I just have to keep it running to see if it's stable, right?
Sure, but you'll want to find the lowest vcore, start with 10minute tests and keep dropping the voltage. Once you are in the ball park then start running a longer session for a few hours and tweak if required.
SirMossyBloke
Member
Gotcha. So as it stands right now in CPU-Z it says 1.200 core voltage, I'll keep knocking it down until I find the lowest it runs on. Thanks!
Yep, and then if temps are good, see what it takes for 4.3ghz. I learn the ballpark voltages for a few multipliers before settling to do a long run for the final overclock setting.
JoeyJungle
Banned
I need to reseat my heatsink and lost my arctic silver, what thermal paste should I buy? Any differences between them?
So all of my components arrive tomorrow, including my case, keyboard, and mouse. My front porch is going to look like the warehouse at the end of Raiders of the Losk Ark.
So I have another question for you all. I also ordered thermal paste, but I hear that I might not need it, well, right away. Is the paste that may already be applied to the CPU good enough? Should I remove any "stock" paste and reapply myself?
So I have another question for you all. I also ordered thermal paste, but I hear that I might not need it, well, right away. Is the paste that may already be applied to the CPU good enough? Should I remove any "stock" paste and reapply myself?
TC McQueen
Member
Are you using a third party cooler (one that isn't packed in with the CPU)? Then yes, you should remove the stock paste and use the new thermal paste. If not, you can use the stock paste, until you get a better cooler.
Square Triangle
Member
My 144hz monitor is expected to arrive tomorrow. Paired with my 1070, I need a Display Port cord? I'm new to PC gaming, so I didn't even know such a thing existed. My HDMI cord wont work properly?
Had a fun day upgrading my CPU in my desktop:
The photo's slightly out of focus, but that's my old Pentium G3258 on the left and the Core i7 4770K on the right that I'm replacing it with.
I had been putting off installing it for a little while because I knew it would take a while (I'm using a Fractal Core 304 and everything's squeezed very tight in there), but I just got Watch Dogs 2 for cheap and it won't run at all on the G3258, so I figured it was finally time to get the upgrade done. As expected, the process of disassembling the PC, installing the new CPU and re-assembling it took basically the entire afternoon. Unfortunately, once I finally finished, I had to deal with the following:
- First attempt to boot, doesn't post. DRAM LED on motherboard solid red.
- Re-set both RAM modules. Still doesn't post. LED solid red.
- Use memory test button on motherboard. LED turns on and off a few times, then solid red. Doesn't post.
- Test with RAM module 1 in slot A. LED solid red. Doesn't post.
- Test with RAM module 1 in slot B. LED solid red. Doesn't post.
- Test with RAM module 2 in slot A. LED solid red. Doesn't post.
- Test with RAM module 2 in slot B. LED red for a second... then system boots.
It seems like an issue with the motherboard (if RAM module 2 is good it should work in either slot), but I'm going to test out the RAM on a friend's PC first, as it's a quicker test than replacing the motherboard. Fortunately both mobo and RAM are in warranty, so if necessary I could RMA either or both, but I'm hoping it's just the RAM, as I'm not too eager to spend another day tearing my PC down and rebuilding it (although even replacing RAM sticks is quite a hassle, all that testing above was pretty laborious). I've also had an intermittent problem recently where the computer will hang, although it's so rare it's hard to diagnose (and I figured I may as well wait until the new CPU is installed beforehand), but I'm guessing it's the same mobo/RAM issue.
At least the system is booting and running fine with the single stick of RAM, and the CPU seems to be working fine. Frustratingly, though, even though I now have a sufficient CPU to run Watch Dogs 2, I'm now below the minimum spec on RAM, as I've only got 4GB with the second stick removed.
The photo's slightly out of focus, but that's my old Pentium G3258 on the left and the Core i7 4770K on the right that I'm replacing it with.
I had been putting off installing it for a little while because I knew it would take a while (I'm using a Fractal Core 304 and everything's squeezed very tight in there), but I just got Watch Dogs 2 for cheap and it won't run at all on the G3258, so I figured it was finally time to get the upgrade done. As expected, the process of disassembling the PC, installing the new CPU and re-assembling it took basically the entire afternoon. Unfortunately, once I finally finished, I had to deal with the following:
- First attempt to boot, doesn't post. DRAM LED on motherboard solid red.
- Re-set both RAM modules. Still doesn't post. LED solid red.
- Use memory test button on motherboard. LED turns on and off a few times, then solid red. Doesn't post.
- Test with RAM module 1 in slot A. LED solid red. Doesn't post.
- Test with RAM module 1 in slot B. LED solid red. Doesn't post.
- Test with RAM module 2 in slot A. LED solid red. Doesn't post.
- Test with RAM module 2 in slot B. LED red for a second... then system boots.
It seems like an issue with the motherboard (if RAM module 2 is good it should work in either slot), but I'm going to test out the RAM on a friend's PC first, as it's a quicker test than replacing the motherboard. Fortunately both mobo and RAM are in warranty, so if necessary I could RMA either or both, but I'm hoping it's just the RAM, as I'm not too eager to spend another day tearing my PC down and rebuilding it (although even replacing RAM sticks is quite a hassle, all that testing above was pretty laborious). I've also had an intermittent problem recently where the computer will hang, although it's so rare it's hard to diagnose (and I figured I may as well wait until the new CPU is installed beforehand), but I'm guessing it's the same mobo/RAM issue.
At least the system is booting and running fine with the single stick of RAM, and the CPU seems to be working fine. Frustratingly, though, even though I now have a sufficient CPU to run Watch Dogs 2, I'm now below the minimum spec on RAM, as I've only got 4GB with the second stick removed.
Thank you for replying.
I'm going to use a third party cooler, so I take it I should remove and apply new paste.
Any tips on removing the paste? Any tips on applying?
Sword Of Doom
Member
I have a nano S and had to go with the Corsair LPX also because of the lower profile heatsink. Wanted to get g.skill but couldn't find one that was short enough to fit a 240mm radiator up top.
Im gonna do the same. At 500gb the price isn't that different if you can afford a bit more
StriKeVillain
Banned
I just sprung for an NZXT X62 to pair with my i7 7700k. I'm tired of high temps with my air cooling solution (Cryorig H7) after just over a week.
I really want to push this baby and I just can't with what I currently have. Plus that X62 is pure sexy.
I really want to push this baby and I just can't with what I currently have. Plus that X62 is pure sexy.
TC McQueen
Member
Rubbing alcohol does the trick for removing thermal paste.
As for applying, just about any shape (dot, line, X, etc...) works, as long as you put enough on there.
Sword Of Doom
Member
91% isopropyl alcohol works very well. I also use coffee filters for lint free material (can get messy though cause coffee filters are not very absorbent like a paper towel)
New PC only boots BIOS when outside of my case. I am using a Gigabyte H170N-WIFI mobo and Fractal Design Define Nano S case. If anyone has experience with this, please let me know. The issue could be the case's mobo screws.
Sorry, I misdiagnosed; it's not the X41, it's the case.
In the case: BIOS does not boot (also, fans turn on and off every 5 seconds.)
Outside the case: BIOS successfully boots, all is good.
I had a quick google and it seems that the issue here is with the case's screws on the motherboard. One guy solved the issue by using cardboard washers with the screws. I guess I'll try that next.
Sorry, I misdiagnosed; it's not the X41, it's the case.
In the case: BIOS does not boot (also, fans turn on and off every 5 seconds.)
I originally thought the mobo was endlessly restarting to save the cpu from dangerous temp.
I had a quick google and it seems that the issue here is with the case's screws on the motherboard. One guy solved the issue by using cardboard washers with the screws. I guess I'll try that next.
Bloodember
Member
What are you using to put the motherboard in the case with? There should be standoffs that the motherboard sits on in the case. What's most likely happening is your motherboard board is touching the case, making it not boot. What are the standoffs made out of?
Celcius
°Temp. member
I always just use a paper towel or tissue to wipe it all off and then continue. I like to just place a dot in the middle of the cpu, but back in the Athlon 64 days I liked to use the line method.
The case didn't come with any standoffs. The mobo is just held in place by 4 screws. Fractal Nano S manual. Do I need to buy standoffs?
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