Bloodember
Member
After looking at pictures it looks like the standoffs are pre installed. Are there any in your case? Can you take a picture of it?
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After looking at pictures it looks like the standoffs are pre installed. Are there any in your case? Can you take a picture of it?
lostsupper
Banned
This makes no sense to me. You f you have a rad up top why do you also have a "lower profile heatsink?"
Nyteshade517
Member
The Define R5 case can house tower air coolers up to 180mm tall...and the NH-D15 is 165mm tall
One of the fans can be raised 15mm...would that be enough clearance to be able to use the G.Skill Ripjaws RAM? (or the TridentZ type they make I suppose)
Other than the obvious design difference between the Ripjaws V and TridentZ are there any noticeable differences between them? They seem to be around the same price, give or take a couple dollars either way.
One of the fans can be raised 15mm...would that be enough clearance to be able to use the G.Skill Ripjaws RAM? (or the TridentZ type they make I suppose)
Other than the obvious design difference between the Ripjaws V and TridentZ are there any noticeable differences between them? They seem to be around the same price, give or take a couple dollars either way.
I'm not sure if this is an appropriate thread to ask, but I'm moving into a new home in a few weeks and it has a networking box in a closet. It's basically an in-wall enclosure with tons of wires and what looks like a few ethernet switches. There are labels like line in, line seizure, etc...
My hope is that I can use that to run most devices throughout the house through ethernet cables (there are ethernet outlets in most rooms) rather than wi-fi.
Does anyone in this thread know much about these types of systems? If so, once I move in if I encounter issues (which I suspect is likely) would you be able to help me sort through them?
My hope is that I can use that to run most devices throughout the house through ethernet cables (there are ethernet outlets in most rooms) rather than wi-fi.
Does anyone in this thread know much about these types of systems? If so, once I move in if I encounter issues (which I suspect is likely) would you be able to help me sort through them?
ph1l0z0ph3r
Member
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16817139027
Anyone have any experiences with this PSU? Thinking about grabbing that for my new i5 7600k + 1070 build.
Anyone have any experiences with this PSU? Thinking about grabbing that for my new i5 7600k + 1070 build.
OriginofHysteria
Banned
Made the jump to 1440p!
It's a nice monitor. 1440p was rather liberating from 1080p.
OriginofHysteria
Banned
Still getting used to it as I've used 1080p for the past few years haha. I love it though. The price tag also didnt hurt either, 445 at Best Buy yesterday with the visa checkout.
Hispanic! At the Disco
Member
Im using a second small tv to play overwatch with my wife. Its being loaned to us but they want it back soon. We dont have space for 2 TVs, so i'd rather buy a computer monitor that I could plug my xbox's hdmi into every once in a while, as long as have it for a current and future pc.
Could you guys recommend monitors for around $200? Are the recommended monitors in OP still applicable?
Could you guys recommend monitors for around $200? Are the recommended monitors in OP still applicable?
LincolnSixEcho
Member
If you're interested, it appears that monitor is also compatible with 3D Vision. I love 3D Vision, and I try to play most of my PC games that way.
opticalmace
Member
Sounds like the 45 is only a single core boost. Make sure that you set all cores to hit 4.5ghz.
Ended up getting an Asus 1070 Strix today. I was originally going to get a 1060 to hold me over until the release of the 1080ti or to see what Vega has to offer, but when I was in Microcenter, felt better going tthe 1070s way. My machine hasn't been used or turned on for that matter in over 3 months due to me not having a GPU. Did a bunch of stuff today once I got into the machine. As I mentioned it's been awhile:
Lots of stuff to catch up on and updates to take care of for applications. Can somebody recommend a good temp monitoring program? I've been using HWMonitor for a while, but I thought I caught someone saying HWinfo was a better program?
- Cleaned the rig. It was full of dust. The intakes, the H100, PSU fan. It was awful. I spent a good amount of time taking care of that and wiping everything down.
- Changed the orientation of the H100 and switched the cooling setup from intake to exhaust. Decided to keep the push/pull setup. In total I've got 3x 120mm intake fans in the front of the case, 4x exhaust on the H100, and 1x 140mm exhaust in the back.
- Applied new thermal paste to the CPU. First time in a long time that's been done. My CPU temps are in the 25-28c range and that's with manual voltage @ 1.38 @ 4.5ghz, 4930k 6 core. I'm actually going to reset the OC sometime tomorrow and start over. I think 1.38 is a bit high for my OC, but it's what I've been using for the past 2 years.
Lots of stuff to catch up on and updates to take care of for applications. Can somebody recommend a good temp monitoring program? I've been using HWMonitor for a while, but I thought I caught someone saying HWinfo was a better program?
ph1l0z0ph3r
Member
So just ordered my parts son!!! Super hyped. Moving up from an FX-4100 and GTX 970 w/ a regular HDD so this should be a very very nice upgrade. A bit nervous about installing the Liquid Cooling CPU cooler but can't wait. I have a Windows 8 copy from school can I still upgrade to 10?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($239.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H55 57.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($59.54 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z270-K ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($142.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($124.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Crucial MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($85.59 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.55 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PNY GeForce GTX 1070 8GB XLR8 Video Card ($389.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1261.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-23 03:15 EST-0500
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($239.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H55 57.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($59.54 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z270-K ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($142.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($124.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Crucial MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($85.59 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.55 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PNY GeForce GTX 1070 8GB XLR8 Video Card ($389.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1261.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-23 03:15 EST-0500
Are you talking about the actual install of a AIO cooler, or it running in your machine? If it's the former, there's nothing to worry about. It's really straight forward.
ph1l0z0ph3r
Member
It running inside my pc. How easy is maintenance on these things? Installing it seems really easy with S340 just have to make sure fans are facing the right direction.
Bloodember
Member
There really is no maintenance. Just keep the fans clean and radiator clean from dust, just like you would with an air cooler.
Jezbollah
Member
Yep, this pretty much. Worth buying a can of compressed air every so often to clean out the insides (as well as any peripherals). Apart from that they're usually rock solid.
I've been running my H100 for 2 years with no problems. You hook it up and that's it. The beauty of AIO kits. With me just going through a cleaning of my rig I will say that you should make sure you stay on top of dust that may accumulate on the radiator. This depends on what direction you plan to run the fans, but I was running them as an intake and the amount of dust I witnessed on my radiator today was shocking. The entire thing was covered in it. Other than that though they are maintenance free.
Unless something leaks!
fast_taker
Member
So, I am making the final decisions about my new PC.
I am looking into a build with MSI GeForce 1070 Gaming X card.
Should I choose a 1440p 27" monitor or a 1080p?
I prefer the 1440p but the downside is the limited frames per second...
what would you suggest?
I am looking into a build with MSI GeForce 1070 Gaming X card.
Should I choose a 1440p 27" monitor or a 1080p?
I prefer the 1440p but the downside is the limited frames per second...
what would you suggest?
Jezbollah
Member
I have a ASUS ROG 27" 1440p running a 1070 and frames are great. It's a very good sweet spot. It depends what games you are intending to play of course but I'm delighted with the 1070's performance at 1440p. Perhaps look at some benchmarks?
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
1080p 144hz easy. i don't think the jump to 1440p is that big. i'm holding out with my 1080p monitor until 4K is easier to achieve and more affordable. a higher framerate will make such a huge difference but of course if you ever decide to go back to 60Hz it will be rough. personally i'm staying at 1080p 60hz then going to 4k 60hz.
Gemüsepizza
Member
Is there any specific reason why you want this cooler? Because afaik they aren't exactly silent. I replaced my Thermaltake Macho HR02 Rev B with a Corsair h110i gt, which has an even bigger radiator than the model you have chosen, and it's significantly louder than my old Thermaltake cooler, even with low RPM. And temps are comparable at best. I mainly did this because I needed to expand my RAM and I ran into some space problems. But I'm seriously thinking about going back to a big, traditional CPU cooler. It seems to me that AIO water coolers are better suited for GPUs than CPUs.
Well it depends on what games you play. For AAA games I would go with the 1440p monitor, because you rarely get much more than 60fps at 1440p Ultra settings with an 1070 anyway, and it looks considerably better than 1080p. But if you play games like CS:GO, 1080p with high refresh rate might be a better choice. Personally I have played on 1080p, 1440p, 4K and 144hz/165hz monitors, if I had to choose I would rank them like this (for AAA games):
4K 144hz HDR (not yet available ofc) > 4K / 60 hz > 1440p / 165hz > 1440p / 60hz > 1080p / 144hz > 1080p / 60hz
(Provided your GPU can make use of the hz range on these monitors and reach at least 60 fps at native resolution)
ISee
Member
Definitely 1440p. 4k would be preferable but gpu power isn't there yet, maybe in a year or two. The problem with higher framerates is often cpu power, as even high end (mainstream) cpus can struggle to reach consistent 120+fps in newer open world games even on lower resolutions. So for now 1440p/60 makes actually a lot of sense for entry level high end builds (e.g. i7,1070) imo. It is a very noticeable upgrade from 1080p and it is actually possible to reach 1440p/60 without having to sacrifice too many settings.
And for older Titels there is always the possibility to downsample from 1800p or even 2160p, which also looks great on 1440p.
Nostremitus
Member
reapply thermal paste if you think your chip's getting too hot to boot.
But... kind of an odd thing to assume to be the culprit...
You didn't liberally apply a conductive thermal paste did you?
hooijdonk17
Member
Ok, so I've been playing around with retro computers for a while, and had to type on old keyboards. One was an old IBM XT mechanical, and it was a dream to type on.. Once I went back to contemporary PC keyboards, I HATED them. I just can't take typing on these low profile keys and stupid Apple style shit anymore, I want keys with depth and response. And honestly, I don't want to pay a lot for it..
So TLDR; please give me budget keyboard suggestions that look and feel retro with long key strokes, something that doesn't look like it came out of pimp my ride with neon lights all over the place. Thanks
What I really want is this with USB:
So TLDR; please give me budget keyboard suggestions that look and feel retro with long key strokes, something that doesn't look like it came out of pimp my ride with neon lights all over the place. Thanks
What I really want is this with USB:
Jezbollah
Member
Ok, so I've been playing around with retro computers for a while, and had to type on old keyboards. One was an old IBM XT mechanical, and it was a dream to type on.. Once I went back to contemporary PC keyboards, I HATED them. I just can't take typing on these low profile keys and stupid Apple style shit anymore, I want keys with depth and response. And honestly, I don't want to pay a lot for it..
So TLDR; please give me budget keyboard suggestions that look and feel retro with long key strokes, something that doesn't look like it came out of pimp my ride with neon lights all over the place. Thanks
What I really want is this with USB:
I think any mechanical keyboard will do you well.
ISee
Member
Ok, so I've been playing around with retro computers for a while, and had to type on old keyboards. One was an old IBM XT mechanical, and it was a dream to type on.. Once I went back to contemporary PC keyboards, I HATED them. I just can't take typing on these low profile keys and stupid Apple style shit anymore, I want keys with depth and response. And honestly, I don't want to pay a lot for it..
So TLDR; please give me budget keyboard suggestions that look and feel retro with long key strokes, something that doesn't look like it came out of pimp my ride with neon lights all over the place. Thanks
What I really want is this with USB:
Steelseries 6gv2 could be something for you. It is a mechanical keyboard (there are two versions one with black and one with red switches) with a very basic look and no gamers led bs.
hooijdonk17
Member
Oh yes, this looks nice. I wish it were available in white/beige though.
Sword Of Doom
Member
I meant the RAM heatsink. Hopefully this pic helps clarify. as you can see, there is a tiny bit of clearance. if g.skill has ram that is low profile, I'd definitely go that route.
http://imgur.com/KDOBL3X
I should be able to help. Could you post a picture of the closet and give us the brand and model number of each of the boxes in there? Some (or all) of them might be ethernet switches, but there are some more esoteric things which can be run over cat cable (such as home automation systems), so it's worth knowing what you'll want to keep.
Ok, so I've been playing around with retro computers for a while, and had to type on old keyboards. One was an old IBM XT mechanical, and it was a dream to type on.. Once I went back to contemporary PC keyboards, I HATED them. I just can't take typing on these low profile keys and stupid Apple style shit anymore, I want keys with depth and response. And honestly, I don't want to pay a lot for it..
So TLDR; please give me budget keyboard suggestions that look and feel retro with long key strokes, something that doesn't look like it came out of pimp my ride with neon lights all over the place. Thanks
What I really want is this with USB:
Why not just buy what is basically the same keyboard again?
http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/category/UKBD
Sectorseven
Member
Are frameless keyboards just an aesthetic choice, and what are your thoughts on them?
hooijdonk17
Member
Almost certain not sold where I live but DAMN I want this!!!
Nyteshade517
Member
I'd imagine they'd be easier to clean?
Good luck finding just one. From what I can find, it's an M2 screw x 3.0mm.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011EFAB8K/?tag=neogaf0e-20
That kit is cheap and has a wide assortment of screws. Or maybe you can try a hardware store in your town.
Nyteshade517
Member
think I've switched over to looking more closely at the MSI Z270 SLI Plus motherboard instead of the ASUS Strix Z270E for a build
the MSI board is $50 cheaper and has everything I would need/want in a board at this point
the MSI board is $50 cheaper and has everything I would need/want in a board at this point
ISee
Member
There are no performance differences between boards anymore (as long as they're using the same chipset of course). So if a board is cheaper and offers all the connectivity/features you need, just go for it.
ph1l0z0ph3r
Member
Gemüsepizza;228913553 said:
Yea I was going for the noise factor and just general space issues inside my case. Using a hyper212 currently so hopefully this can atleast match that.
The Auxiliary
Member
So I just bought an i5 6600k a few weeks ago and it's finally going to arrive in the next few days, but I see the 7600k is out now... should I return the 6600k and get the newer one, or is there not that much difference?
Not particularly, I think they are the new 'best value' and m2 drives look so cool just hanging out on the motherboard
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