Yeah I dont know price difference of that and i5 but maybe dropping 1 ram stick so 8gb ram and i3 -> i5? Then add more ram if needed later.
Like https://pcpartpicker.com/product/xwhj4D/intel-cpu-bx80662i56500 maybe
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Yeah I dont know price difference of that and i5 but maybe dropping 1 ram stick so 8gb ram and i3 -> i5? Then add more ram if needed later.
Like https://pcpartpicker.com/product/xwhj4D/intel-cpu-bx80662i56500 maybe
4 threads though - 2 cores + hyperthreading. An i5 would only be 4 cores, so although it should be quicker, it might not be a big difference.
Chris Metal
Member
Sapphire Radeon RX 480 4GB NITRO+ 4G Video Card
What is this card like? I'm not much of a PC gamer and just running two 1920x1200 monitors though neither have HDMI in so will need some HDMI > DVI converters. But I'd still like to know relative performance, working in audio and GPU helps with plugin performance.
What is this card like? I'm not much of a PC gamer and just running two 1920x1200 monitors though neither have HDMI in so will need some HDMI > DVI converters. But I'd still like to know relative performance, working in audio and GPU helps with plugin performance.
Do you think your friend will ever be upgrading to an overclockable CPU?
If so, then the Z270 motherboard is a sensible choice, as it would allow him to overclock a 7600K or 7700K if he ever upgrades to either.
If not, then there's no need to get a Z270 motherboard, or the 212 cooler, for that matter (the stock Intel cooler will do the job for non-overclocked CPUs, the only benefit of buying a third party one would be acoustics). You can then use that saved money to move up to an i5, such as below:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($198.69 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock H270M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($89.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Team Dark 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: XFX Radeon RX 480 4GB RS Video Card ($189.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($62.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $626.65
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-28 10:58 EST-0500
This pushes it a little over $600, but if he's keen to keep that as a hard limit you could either go with a slightly cheaper case, or stick with 8GB of RAM for now and upgrade later.
DeadlyVirus
Member
Hey guys,
I finally decided to build a new PC (first in a probably a decade), to have a dedicated box at home for box gaming and work (I work in IT). I've been on a MacBook Pro for a few years
So far I've come up with the following:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.49 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($27.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A KRAIT GAMING 3X ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($409.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($88.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Acer H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($139.98 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: Acer H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($139.98 @ NCIX US)
Keyboard: Thermaltake CHALLENGER PRIME Wired Gaming Keyboard ($26.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1587.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-28 12:23 EST-0500
This is going a bit over what I was thinking on spending, but I can spend this much if the boost in performance is that big. Any suggestions on where to cut some costs or replacements?
Please take into consideration the following:
- 2 monitors is a must
- I'm trying to future-proof myself
- I only have a keyboard listed, as I'll use my wireless Logitech mouse
- Another option would be to not buy the GPU and get at a later date
- I'll be removed a 250GB Samsung EVO SSD from an old laptop to add to the this one
I finally decided to build a new PC (first in a probably a decade), to have a dedicated box at home for box gaming and work (I work in IT). I've been on a MacBook Pro for a few years
So far I've come up with the following:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.49 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($27.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A KRAIT GAMING 3X ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($409.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($88.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Acer H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($139.98 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: Acer H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($139.98 @ NCIX US)
Keyboard: Thermaltake CHALLENGER PRIME Wired Gaming Keyboard ($26.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1587.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-28 12:23 EST-0500
This is going a bit over what I was thinking on spending, but I can spend this much if the boost in performance is that big. Any suggestions on where to cut some costs or replacements?
Please take into consideration the following:
- 2 monitors is a must
- I'm trying to future-proof myself
- I only have a keyboard listed, as I'll use my wireless Logitech mouse
- Another option would be to not buy the GPU and get at a later date
- I'll be removed a 250GB Samsung EVO SSD from an old laptop to add to the this one
Randy Lanzarote
Member
Thanks. Does the RX 460 offer better performance than the 1050 though? I tried to find some benchmarks/reviews and the one I found seemed to have the 1050 coming out on top, as well using less power and running cooler.?
http://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/2658-gtx-1050-ti-and-1050-review-benchmarks-vs-460-more/page-5
Bloodember
Member
Here's a new list, it changes the arciac cooler to something a lot better, different ram and a micro ATX motherboard. You may also consider kaby lake instead of sky lake as it's newer.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.49 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Pure Rock Slim 35.1 CFM CPU Cooler ($23.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($96.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($409.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($88.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Acer H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($139.98 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: Acer H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($139.98 @ NCIX US)
Keyboard: Thermaltake CHALLENGER PRIME Wired Gaming Keyboard ($26.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1526.06
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-28 13:08 EST-0500
nightmare-slain
Banned
what's this hate people have against the 212 lol?
for £30 it's excellent value. do other fans really cool much better for less?
for £30 it's excellent value. do other fans really cool much better for less?
dcx4610
Member
I would really try to find 144hz monitors. It's a game changer if you are going to be gaming. Seagate is also one of the least reliable drive out there right now. Other than that, it's a solid build.
Just get led strips off Amazon, they're really cheap around $25.00
Any bright light does the job
This is news to me. So if I upgrade from a 2500k to like a 6700k or whatever I can't just use that?
Can I control them to match what's on the display?
It would be fine. People seem to get upset just because it's old.
Bloodember
Member
The arciac clamping mechanism, its fans loud and there are many coolers at the same price range that's a lot better. Plus the CPU cooler is one place you do not want to skimp on.
That Lian Li case does look nice.
Let's say I get this one. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112555
Would this board go with it? https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...cm_re=asus_motherboard-_-13-132-929-_-Product Or any better/similar ones?
And would all my components fit into the case?
Let's say I get this one. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112555
Would this board go with it? https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...cm_re=asus_motherboard-_-13-132-929-_-Product Or any better/similar ones?
And would all my components fit into the case?
Nyteshade517
Member
Jezbollah
Member
Yep. You might also want to look at this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uabb5Zkc770 there are some pretty major issues with GPU card sizing
Is $409.99 a typo?
Speedwagon
Michelangelo painted the Sistine Chapel. Yabuki turned off voice chat in Mario Kart races. True artists of their time.
Suggestions?
Actually. Found the one that is ATX.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...11112554&cm_re=lian_li-_-11-112-554-_-Product
I'm assuming this will fit everything I want.
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($343.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS IX HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($219.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($139.89 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($249.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Black 5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($219.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($428.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($134.49 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.58 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
If it does I'll go for it.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...11112554&cm_re=lian_li-_-11-112-554-_-Product
I'm assuming this will fit everything I want.
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($343.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS IX HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($219.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($139.89 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($249.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Black 5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($219.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($428.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($134.49 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.58 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
If it does I'll go for it.
Jezbollah
Member
You need to watch that video, the GPU wont fit I believe.
Bloodember
Member
Cyrorig H7
Be Quiet! Pure Rock Slim
Here are two that are pretty good for the price, there are others many others as well.
That video is of the 05. The last link I posted is of the 07 and is the only ATX one out of the bunch.
Based on little research I did it looks like it fits everything except the cpu cooler. Max is like 85mm.
If I go with the case now I have to look for a new cooler. White one is $110 more than the black one. Might just get the latter.
Based on little research I did it looks like it fits everything except the cpu cooler. Max is like 85mm.
If I go with the case now I have to look for a new cooler. White one is $110 more than the black one. Might just get the latter.
ndawgdrake
Member
Does anyone know if I would lose any overclocking potential if I swap out my 2500k @ 4.6 with a 3770k?
Further, would I gain any ram OC potential with the 3770k's newer memory controller?
I have a P67 board (MSI P67A-GD65)
Thanks.
Further, would I gain any ram OC potential with the 3770k's newer memory controller?
I have a P67 board (MSI P67A-GD65)
Thanks.
lostsupper
Banned
It's been surpassed at its price point in cooling and acoustic performance, mounting design, and aesthetics. For years now.
GAF, I've built a 7700k box and memory overclocking is slowly killing me.
I want to run 32GB so I've chosen a GSkill 3866 kit that's on both ASUS and GSkill's QVL sheets for my config at this speed. In a week of tweaking I can't get it beyond 2800. Does anyone have any Kaby Lake memory tweaking tips? As I understand, these should be Samsung modules under the fancy exterior. I'm using an ASUS Maximus Hero Z270 board.
Second, my huge Noctua D-14 is great, but it's covering 1 RAM module and hindering my troubleshooting. If I have to remove, clean everything, and reinstall one more time I will cry. I've had my eye on a closed loop cooler that would work in my Antec P280 case. Buying one would both simplify my life and cool my CPU. Anyone have suggestions on something super quiet?
I want to run 32GB so I've chosen a GSkill 3866 kit that's on both ASUS and GSkill's QVL sheets for my config at this speed. In a week of tweaking I can't get it beyond 2800. Does anyone have any Kaby Lake memory tweaking tips? As I understand, these should be Samsung modules under the fancy exterior. I'm using an ASUS Maximus Hero Z270 board.
Second, my huge Noctua D-14 is great, but it's covering 1 RAM module and hindering my troubleshooting. If I have to remove, clean everything, and reinstall one more time I will cry. I've had my eye on a closed loop cooler that would work in my Antec P280 case. Buying one would both simplify my life and cool my CPU. Anyone have suggestions on something super quiet?
Found one. NH-L9x65
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($343.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9x65 33.8 CFM CPU Cooler ($46.95 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS IX HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($219.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($139.89 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($249.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Black 5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($219.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($428.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Lian-Li PC-07SX HTPC Case
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($134.49 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.58 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
I think I'm good now.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($343.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9x65 33.8 CFM CPU Cooler ($46.95 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS IX HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($219.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($139.89 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($249.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Black 5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($219.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($428.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Lian-Li PC-07SX HTPC Case
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($134.49 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.58 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
I think I'm good now.
Found one. NH-L9x65
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($343.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9x65 33.8 CFM CPU Cooler ($46.95 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS IX HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($219.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($139.89 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($249.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Black 5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($219.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($428.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Lian-Li PC-07SX HTPC Case
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($134.49 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.58 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
I think I'm good now.
It'll be a nice rig for sure, some things to think about:
Is ATX really needed?
What's the plan for when you run out of 5TB - does the Lian li ATX/matx have enough expansion for 3.5" drives?
The ATX case has the advantage of full length GPU and PSU. The smaller form factors use mini cards and SFX PSUs.
I very much doubt you will ever SLI.
I'm not sure why you pick such an expensive board, is there a particular feature you are looking to have that.l cheaper boards don't have? Generally I choose mainstream or ROG. ROG for maximum overclock potential.
The rig will be CPU cooling limited if you plan to overclock to the edge - 4.8-5Ghz+.
If you delid you shall have no problems in that regard.
lostsupper
Banned
What settings are you using? Memory overclocking on more than four DIMM's is harder than on two.
Greatest Ever
Member
Help me out fam, I'm dying out here with how much space my Windows folder is taking up. It's at least 52 GB, compressed it's down to 26 or so. Granted, a 256 GB SSD isn't the biggest thing in the world but I thought I'd have more space for just Hitman, The Division, FEAR, and a few smaller games.
Any good space saving corner cutting?
Any good space saving corner cutting?
Long story short, I did XMP first.. failed. Since I've modified the secondary timings to match what is in the SPD of the DIMMs. That also failed, so I've tweaked VCCIO and VCCSA mostly. All this has gotten me to 2800.
I'm currently testing 2 DIMMs and running 3600 with much tighter timings than XMP, but I still can't POST at anything higher.
Edit: I should note that I'm not using the preferred 2 slots for my current testing or I'd have to remove my PITA heatsink again, and therefore cry. I'm not sure how much that is hurting my 16GB experiment.
I don't plan on going above 4.5 ghz. My unit now is at 4.4.
A lot of stuff there is just people's recommendations. Honestly I am going for looks as well as keeping things practical and compatible too.
As for storage. I'm going to use my current SSD as a secondary. And my secondary now will be my third. I also have a bunch of external drives. If I need more space then I'll just get one of those 8TB WD books. Honestly I don't need another drive right now so I think I'm just going to delete that 5TB.
People can still keep recommending me stuff. I have until next Friday until I buy everything.
A lot of stuff there is just people's recommendations. Honestly I am going for looks as well as keeping things practical and compatible too.
As for storage. I'm going to use my current SSD as a secondary. And my secondary now will be my third. I also have a bunch of external drives. If I need more space then I'll just get one of those 8TB WD books. Honestly I don't need another drive right now so I think I'm just going to delete that 5TB.
People can still keep recommending me stuff. I have until next Friday until I buy everything.
Greatest Ever
Member
Go lower on the HDD, and spice up that SSD as much as you can.
What are you setting for VCCSA and VCCIO?
A ballpark voltage would be 1.10v for both.
Only enter the primary timings for the Ram and set VDIMM to 1.35v.
Kabylake IMC should easily do 3200mhz atleast.
If you are running tighter than XMP, then you'll need more VCCIO/SA and VDIMM.
What is the RAM kit?
I run 2x8Gb 3000mhz 14-14-14-35 2N with 1.05v VCCSA/IO, 1.35v VDIMM. 4.9Ghz core clock.
Getting 4.5Ghz is garunteed. The worst chips will do 4.8Ghz. The stock single core turbo is 4.4ghz. Stock all core turbo is 4.2Ghz, so all core 4.5ghz is very minor overclock. Should be ok with the limited CPU cooling.
I would go with a mainstream Asus board in the $150 range.
Personally I prefer all my storage to be internal, but that's totally up to you. 3Tb drives are quite a sweet spot for price to GB.
Bump up the SSD as much as you can with left over budget.
lostsupper
Banned
If it's in your budget, swap the D14 with D15s. Start testing the primary DIMM pair. VCCIO And VCCSA can both go over 1.2v.
When not on auto I've taken VCCSA and VCCIO to 1.2 on each but wouldn't POST. Auto takes them higher than 1.1.
XMP gets all the primary timings right, and ASUS recommended I try to manually enter the secondary timings from the SPD for the 3866 speeds but it didn't help.
The only time I've taken any timings tighter than spec is when I dropped down to 2 DIMMs at 3600.
The kit is: F4-3866C18Q-32GTZKW
When you say 3200, do you mean for 4 DIMMs?
I don't absolutely have to have 32GB but I'd like to for virtual machine usage. I'm not totally surprised that I'm going to have to choose memory performance vs quantity, but since the kit was on both vendors QVL sheet at 3866 I'd be pretty disappointed dropping down, especially to 2800.
Final question: Should I be taking VDIMM over 1.35 when testing 4?
QVL doesn't mean anything, you are still at the mercy of your CPU IMC. QVL means if the CPU is capable, the board will co operate in handling such frequencies.
You can try bump VDIMM up a little - 1.37v.
With 4 DIMMs i expect much higher VCCSA/IO at 3600mhz - 1.2-1.25v.
You should try lower frequencies first, for each 200mhz drop from XMP subtract 1 from the spec'd primary timings.
If the CPU is overclocked then expect to have a harder time also.
Yeah I get that I'm at the mercy of my IMC but in that regard I was thinking 3600 would be a fallback from 3866 rather than 2800. If I can't get better than that I'd be tempted to dump this CPU and try another, but prob a waste.
The CPU isn't overclocked while doing this testing, but it's perfectly happy at 5GH+.. not sure how far it can go. I'll play with the voltages a bit and I appreciate your feedback.
Are the performance gains going from a GTX 1070 to a 1080 worth the boost in price? It doesn't appear so but I intend to do VR gaming as well and comparisons seem a little harder to find.
Also, at this point my rig is damn near 5 years old. I'm running a i7 3770K and a 7970 GHZ GPU; it's beyond the point of simply upgrading the GPU. right? My CPU is from the Ivy Bridge days.
Also, at this point my rig is damn near 5 years old. I'm running a i7 3770K and a 7970 GHZ GPU; it's beyond the point of simply upgrading the GPU. right? My CPU is from the Ivy Bridge days.
Celcius
°Temp. member
Ah, I thought you were going for a higher overclock based on the original board you picked. If you only want 4.5ghz then you can drop down to a cheaper board like the Asus Prime Z270A ($170) if you want: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NGTYV2Q/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I personally have the Maximus IX Hero and am really liking it, but I plan to get as close to 5ghz as I can (once I finish playing Tales of Berseria lol)
Yeah. I think I could save a little by going with the STRIX Z270E GAMING. A plus it having built in bluetooth. I have bluetooth headphones. If you guys think I could go even lower and get one with it I'd go for it.
At most I'll OC to 4.6 and leave it there for eternity. Just looking at the stuff I'm doing and I don't think I need to ever go above that.
Things will be even cheaper since a lot of these parts are into combos. I'll save a few here and there.
My 2500k at 4.4ghz is putting in work for me right now. Doing everything I need it to. Been years since I really upgraded so now is just a good time.
At most I'll OC to 4.6 and leave it there for eternity. Just looking at the stuff I'm doing and I don't think I need to ever go above that.
Things will be even cheaper since a lot of these parts are into combos. I'll save a few here and there.
My 2500k at 4.4ghz is putting in work for me right now. Doing everything I need it to. Been years since I really upgraded so now is just a good time.
2800 just seems too low. What was the exact settings to get that to work?
I had everything at XMP spec (18-19-19-39), then dropped down to 2800 manually. So basically everything was loose for timings. I'll have to repeat it and jot things down in a bit. I tweaked things all the way down but couldn't POST until 2800.
Since 1 RAM stick is tough to get to, I left it alone and removed 3. From there I tried to get that stick at 3866, failed.. 3773 (or whatever).. failed.. then got 3600. From there I tightened timings until I was at 16-16-16-36. Ran memory tests, then have been adding the other 3 sticks one at a time in the appropriate slot and memory test with those timings at 16GB. I'm on the last stick test now. I was hoping maybe 1 was bad but they all seem ok at this performance level.
When this is done I'll go back to 32GB and tinker a bit more. At this point I'll probably RMA the RAM and get a cheaper 16GB kit that is similar to what I'm able to run. That's assuming I hold up at 5GHz and 3600 with 16GB.
Nostremitus
Member
With new drivers they are actually about even, but the 460 has twice the VRAM. A lot of benchmarkers will benchmark at launch and then just reuse those benches for comparison later.
http://wccftech.com/evga-gtx-1050-ssc-sapphire-nitro-oc-rx-460-triple-gaming-showdown/
Plus, if you want to get experimental, a BIOS update can get around 12% more performance out of the 460. But, you know, this is a use at own risk scenario. It's almost as if they were prepping 460 and 460X but the yields weren't what they had hoped so they just put the standard 460 BIOS on all of them and pushed them out the door. Why else would they lock the card to 896 Stream Processors when it has 1024? Unless they were just dead set on not wanting it to pull extra power?
http://overclocking.guide/amd-radeon-rx-460-unlocking-1024-stream-processors/
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