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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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07 is tall but narrow just like the small one. Definitely go with AIO. If the ambient temp in the room is cool you really don't need a lot of cooling. Your CPU already runs at 4.4ghz and even if you overclock to 4.6 you might not even need to touch the voltage.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Been meaning to post a picture of the PC I built a couple of weeks ago. It's so quiet I can't even tell it's on when playing games on it. I've added another radiator to it since I took this pic. I'm thinking about returning the ASrock motherboard and red RAM and buying the new asus strix with black RAM cause the colors would go perfectly with my water cooling parts.

Thumbs up on the power supply there :)
 

jfoul

Member
I'm looking for a budget CPU for an extra Z87 board I have laying around from a previous build. I'm not too familiar with budget intel CPUs, but I was looking at the Intel Pentium G3258 for $49.99 at Microcenter. This would be used as a simple work desktop for my home office. The software being ran would network monitoring, database (3), and server/switch/router/access point GUIs.

Thanks.

Edit - Nevemind, I'm just going to build an i3 7100 with a B250 chipset. Might even wait a little bit and see what AMD has to offer with their new offerings.
 
GAF, SteelSeries 6GV2, Apex M400 or Apex M500 - which one should I go for? The backlight is of no interest to me and the keyboards look pretty much identical otherwise, with slight layout differences. Apparently 6GV2 has Cherry Black, M400 has SteelSeries QX1 and Apex M500 has Cherry Red switches. All are non-tactile and non-clicky. This will be my first mechanical keyboard, and I want it mostly for typing and some gaming. Should I go for a tactile or clicky switch keyboard instead?
 
I have a question regarding PSUs and inrush current. I was going to get one of SeaSonic's latest Prime PSUs but I saw that it had an inrush current of over 60 amperes on 230v input.

This is a lot more than other PSUs I checked out, but is it something I should even be worrying about to begin with?

Edit: Looking at the Supernova G2, it's at 40 amperes on 230v input, for instance.
 

Vipu

Banned
GAF, SteelSeries 6GV2, Apex M400 or Apex M500 - which one should I go for? The backlight is of no interest to me and the keyboards look pretty much identical otherwise, with slight layout differences. Apparently 6GV2 has Cherry Black, M400 has SteelSeries QX1 and Apex M500 has Cherry Red switches. All are non-tactile and non-clicky. This will be my first mechanical keyboard, and I want it mostly for typing and some gaming. Should I go for a tactile or clicky switch keyboard instead?

Mx brown or blue are much better for typing than red or black
Brown would be maybe best for you, a bit tactile but still fine for gaming too.
Blue is bit too "hard" to press for gaming.
Black and red dont have "mushy" feeling for typing

You still should go try them yourself to some store if possible to feel the difference.
 
Mx brown or blue are much better for typing than red or black
Brown would be maybe best for you, a bit tactile but still fine for gaming too.
Blue is bit too "hard" to press for gaming.
Black and red dont have "mushy" feeling for typing

You still should go try them yourself to some store if possible to feel the difference.

Sounds like CoolerMaster Quickfire Rapid or XT, and Logitech G610 may be up my alley then.. I'll need to measure keyboard space, though.
 
After evaluating the space in my room, I came to the conclusion that I'm going to have my PC case on the floor.

Anyone have any sugestion on what I can buy to put between the case and the carpet floor?
 

Zel3

Member
Are you going to build in that small Lian Li case? I just checked the previous page and saw your initial post with the parts listed. With that case it's best to see what worked for others. I was under the impression that you were using a standard mid tower case. There was a post recently from someone who built in the Lian Li. I'll try to find it.


I think this is the same case.....it's beautiful. Would have loved to use this case but I wanted to water cool both CPU/GPU so I went with the Fractal Define Nano S

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=225390340&postcount=13976


Been meaning to post a picture of the PC I built a couple of weeks ago. It's so quiet I can't even tell it's on when playing games on it. I've added another radiator to it since I took this pic. I'm thinking about returning the ASrock motherboard and red RAM and buying the new asus strix with black RAM cause the colors would go perfectly with my water cooling parts.

nMra4CU.jpg

I like the EK ZMT tubing you went with, i also chose the same tubing for my build. I'm a big fan of the matte black appearance, and best of all low maintenance required.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
for some reason I get shitty wifi speeds in my spare room - literally one room over from my router but its through two brick walls (stairs). I have my PC wired into an ethernet switch, but for ipad/iphone it isn't good.

Are wifi repeaters/extenders decent to use - just plug them into my ethernet switch in my spare room and get good speeds? Or does it mess up with SSIDs and complicated network setups? Where it'd be used I could plug it into the ethernet switch so I don't need it to connect to my wifi, especially if it slows things down.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
After evaluating the space in my room, I came to the conclusion that I'm going to have my PC case on the floor.

Anyone have any sugestion on what I can buy to put between the case and the carpet floor?

I just put an old unused IKEA shelf under mine, but my case is a bitfenix prodidy so it has a reasonable air gap built in.
 

Chinbo37

Member
for some reason I get shitty wifi speeds in my spare room - literally one room over from my router but its through two brick walls (stairs). I have my PC wired into an ethernet switch, but for ipad/iphone it isn't good.

Are wifi repeaters/extenders decent to use - just plug them into my ethernet switch in my spare room and get good speeds? Or does it mess up with SSIDs and complicated network setups? Where it'd be used I could plug it into the ethernet switch so I don't need it to connect to my wifi, especially if it slows things down.


Powerline adaptors. I use them and they work great.
 

Thraktor

Member
for some reason I get shitty wifi speeds in my spare room - literally one room over from my router but its through two brick walls (stairs). I have my PC wired into an ethernet switch, but for ipad/iphone it isn't good.

Are wifi repeaters/extenders decent to use - just plug them into my ethernet switch in my spare room and get good speeds? Or does it mess up with SSIDs and complicated network setups? Where it'd be used I could plug it into the ethernet switch so I don't need it to connect to my wifi, especially if it slows things down.

What you're looking for is a wifi access point (or an "extender/repeater" which has an access point mode). You just plug it into the ethernet switch, log in to it through a browser, set the wifi settings identically to your main wifi network (meaning SSID, security settings and password) and in theory your wireless devices should just seamless migrate between it and your router, depending on which offers a better signal.

The problem, though, is that like many things in the world of networking, it doesn't always work 100% as it should. Depending on what make the router is, what make the access point is, what kind of devices are using the network, what phase of the moon it is, etc., etc., you can end up having odd connectivity issues with some devices on the network. In my experience Apple devices tend to be alright in these kinds of situations, but if you've got anything else on the network other than the iPhone/iPad then it's a bit of a crapshoot whether it's going to work or not for any given device.

That's not to say it's not worth trying, and there's a good chance it'll work without any real issues, but it's one of those areas where consumer networking equipment just isn't geared towards, so you have to keep in mind the possibility that you'll have problems. If you try it and it does have issues you can just set that access point up as a separate SSID, but obviously then you have the hassle of switching between the two when you go in or out of the room.

The other option is disabling the wifi on the router entirely and going with a proper dedicated wifi solution, such as Ubiquiti. Get two of their Unifi AP AC Lite access points, put one in the spare room and one somewhere else in the house, set them up and you're good to go. The benefit of Ubiquiti is that it's not really consumer networking equipment, it's designed specifically as a multi-access-point solution for small to medium businesses, so it actually works, and you can be confident that any devices you use will just seamlessly connect to whichever access point has better signal without you having to worry about it. It also has some nice network analysis and management software you can dive into if you like, although if you just want to set it up and leave it alone it's pretty easy to do so.

Of course, the downside with buying two access points is that you've got to buy two access points. The AC Lite models aren't actually all that expensive (certainly not when comparing to other "enterprise" networking hardware), but you'd be looking at about $150 for the pair of them, which is quite a bit more than you'd be spending on a single access point from Asus or Netgear or whoever.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
awesome and thorough answer, thanks. Might have an old router lying around somewhere (might even be able to reuse an old time machine thats sitting around doing nothing).

I'm a bit surprised there isn't a better solution, or that those more enterprise level solutions haven't trickled down yet - everyone is doing wifi extenders which relies on you having a semi-ok signal and then repeating it and losing speed in the process.
 

Primus

Member
I'm a bit surprised there isn't a better solution, or that those more enterprise level solutions haven't trickled down yet - everyone is doing wifi extenders which relies on you having a semi-ok signal and then repeating it and losing speed in the process.

We're kinda just getting there tech-wise. Ubiquiti is the first company to have real "pro-sumer" products that don't break the bank, and mesh wi-fi only hit the market in a big way in the leadup to Christmas.
 

Raylan

Banned
CPU:
Intel Core i5-7600K, 4x 3.80GHz

Board:
MSI Z270 Gaming M3 Intel Z270 So.1151 Dual Channel DDR ATX

RAM:
Crucial Ballistix Sport LT DIMM Kit 16GB, DDR4-2400, CL16-16-16 (€100)

GPU:
MSI GeForce GTX 1060 Gaming X 6G Aktiv PCIe 3.0 x16 (6GB)

HDD:
Seagate BarraCuda ST2000DM006 64MB 3.5" 2TB (8.9cm) SATA 6Gb/s

SSD:
Samsung MZ-75E250B/EU 850 EVO

Optical Drive:
Random SATA Drive

Case:
Fractal Design R5

Power-Supply:
be quiet! Pure Power 9 600W CM 80+

Heat Sink (CPU):
EKL Alpenföhn Brocken ECO

Final build
 

Bloodember

Member
So, it's time for a new Rig. Some power, but has to be quiet.
Right now, it would look like this:

CPU:
Intel Core i5-7600, 4x 3.50GHz (€227)

Board:
MSI B150 PC-Mate (€87)

RAM:
Crucial Ballistix Sport LT DIMM Kit 16GB, DDR4-2400, CL16-16-16 (€100)

GPU:
MSI GeForce GTX 1060 V328-001R 6GB GDDR5 (€328)

HDD:
WD Blue 2 TB (3,5" - 5400 U/min, SATA, 6 Gb/s, 64 MB Cache) (€82)

SSD:
Samsung MZ-75E250B/EU 850 EVO (€99)

Optical Drive:
Random SATA Drive (€12)

Case:

Fractal Design R5 (€109)

Power-Supply:
be quiet! Pure Power 9 600W CM 80+ (€85)

Heat Sink (CPU):
EKL Alpenföhn Brocken ECO (€31)

€1160

What do you guys say?
That board is for skylake, you want a b250 board, they are designed for kaby lake.
 

Gandie

Member
So, it's time for a new Rig. Some power, but has to be quiet.
Right now, it would look like this:

CPU:
Intel Core i5-7600, 4x 3.50GHz (€227)

Board:
MSI B150 PC-Mate (€87)

RAM:
Crucial Ballistix Sport LT DIMM Kit 16GB, DDR4-2400, CL16-16-16 (€100)

GPU:
MSI GeForce GTX 1060 V328-001R 6GB GDDR5 (€328)

HDD:
WD Blue 2 TB (3,5" - 5400 U/min, SATA, 6 Gb/s, 64 MB Cache) (€82)

SSD:
Samsung MZ-75E250B/EU 850 EVO (€99)

Optical Drive:
Random SATA Drive (€12)

Case:

Fractal Design R5 (€109)

Power-Supply:
be quiet! Pure Power 9 600W CM 80+ (€85)

Heat Sink (CPU):
EKL Alpenföhn Brocken ECO (€31)

€1160

What do you guys say?

Consider switching to an overclockable CPU and a Z270 chipset motherboard for free performance increases in the future. Otherwise look for B250 (kaby lake).

Where are you shopping from? 1060s go on sale for 250€ regularly, nice way to save some cash.

How big is that SSD?

The case is an excellent choice if noise is an issue.
 

Raylan

Banned
That board is for skylake, you want a b250 board, they are designed for kaby lake.

Thanks!
Updated to "MSI B250 PC Mate".

Is the RAM okay?

Consider switching to an overclockable CPU and a Z270 chipset motherboard for free performance increases in the future.
Got some examples? (CPU and Board)
CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K, 4x 3.80GHz ?

Where are you shopping from? 1060s go on sale for 250€ regularly, nice way to save some cash.
I live in germany right now. So that's that.
I found a "Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB Windforce OC 6G, 6GB GDDR5" for €288, but according to some reviews,
the "MSI GeForce GTX 1060 V328-001R 6GB GDDR5" is not as loud :/

How big is that SSD?
250GB

The case is an excellent choice if noise is an issue.
Great to hear. At first I thought it might be a bit too small for the big heat sink. But nah, should be okay :)
 

Gandie

Member
Thanks!
Updated to "MSI B250 PC Mate".

Is the RAM okay?


Got some examples? (CPU and Board)
CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K, 4x 3.80GHz ?


I live in germany right now. So that's that.
I found a "Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB Windforce OC 6G, 6GB GDDR5" for €288, but according to some reviews,
the "MSI GeForce GTX 1060 V328-001R 6GB GDDR5" is not as loud :/


250GB


Great to hear. At first I thought it might be a bit too small for the big heat sink. But nah, should be okay :)

7600k would be the better choice for the future. Just choose any Z270 board you like.

listing here

Intel really went wild with the Kaby Lake pricing for both CPU and mainboards, so you'll have to judge if the increase in performance is worth the higher price. You could go with a 6600k as CPU and a Z170 board. Not as future proof but with nearly the same performance for a reduction in price.


I'm in Germany as well and got the Inno3d 1060 with the Ichill cooler for 259 € just last week. So depending on your deadline, being patient pays off.

Check this article for information on noise. I seriously doubt that you will be able to hear any of the top cards through your case.

I just bought the same RAM. Haven't tested it, but research showed promise. Not the fastest, but decent performance and a good price.
 
this is probably a really basic (dumb) question but here goes...

When updating the chipset drivers when you first install your system they list Intel Chipset & Intel Management Interface...wouldn't you need to download both of those and not either or?

Watched a video where they just chose the Management one but never did the Chipset driver and thought to myself that was wrong
 

Kudo

Member

Wonder if this is ok to post here but, I'm looking to save some money and maybe help somebody while doing so?
For people buying computers right now MSI is having a campaign for For Honor keys if you buy motherboard listed on the campaign site: https://www.msi.com/Promotion/for-honor-bundle-motherboard
I don't know for how much the keys go but I can pay at least $20, so if you're buying computer in near future with one of those mobos and no interest in the game, let me know.

Just bringing this to your attention too so you don't miss a free game, for some reason it's not advertised anywhere. EDIT: Alternate.de seems to have some advertisements for the deal it seems.
And in case you end up buying Z270 motherboard with no interest to the game you can sell it to make up for some of that difference between B250.

I'd be buying an MSI board from that list if I can get a PC built in the next few weeks...everything depends on how money goes

If I do I'll get in contact with you

Sounds good, hopefully you'll get everything in order to get a PC built.
 
Yeah Sorry, I have a GTX 1070... i need Gsync and HDMI, 4K resolution if possible. ( 27" or 32" )

Hm... looking around, the XB271HK might be an option? It seems pretty decently review, though I do confess to not being too well informed on the subject of monitors - certainly within your price range though.
 

mulac

Member
I've been rocking an i7 4790k cpu combined with an Asus ROG VII Formula mobo and 16gb ram for a while now; all working really well.

However i noticed the CPU is getting hotter (using the stock fan) so looking at an upgrade specifically:

https://www.mwave.com.au/product/noctua-nhu12s-multi-socket-cpu-cooler-ab48912

The case i use is an InWin303 and all my other fans are Noctua's so dont mind the aesthetic.

Any recommendations for either this cooler or alternative? I have my pc on display in the lounge so everyone can see inside!

The Dark Rock 3 Pro looks really cool as does the CryOrig R1 Universal - but i dont think either of those fit...

Thanks!
 

Angel_DvA

Member
Hm... looking around, the XB271HK might be an option? It seems pretty decently review, though I do confess to not being too well informed on the subject of monitors - certainly within your price range though.

Yeah I was thinking about this model but the 32" one, i can have it for 900€ here, it looks like the best one period in that category ?
 

Ashhong

Member
Hey guys, I was playing Resident Evil and trying to stream for the first time, and midgame my pc just froze. It flashed around, then ended with the screens going black and nothing responding. My keyboard and pc were still on/lit up. Any ideas? I'm not over clocked on either my GPU or cpu

I5 4670k
4gb Sapphire R9 Fury
650w EVGA gold PSU
16gb ram

The PSU and GPU are fairly new, but they work fine when I do a heaven benchmark
 

Thraktor

Member
awesome and thorough answer, thanks. Might have an old router lying around somewhere (might even be able to reuse an old time machine thats sitting around doing nothing).

I'm a bit surprised there isn't a better solution, or that those more enterprise level solutions haven't trickled down yet - everyone is doing wifi extenders which relies on you having a semi-ok signal and then repeating it and losing speed in the process.

The main consumer brands don't really have any interest in catering to customers who are willing to go to the trouble of wiring up their house with CAT5/6 cable. Not only are they a small portion of the overall market (and growing smaller still, as wifi speeds have increased at a far faster pace than ethernet), but they tend to be the kind of arstechnica-reading, amateur sysadmin types who are far more demanding of their hardware that the typical customer base for a company like Netgear. This is why mesh systems have exploded in popularity over the past year or so (also due to the availability of hardware for it, you'll notice almost every mesh wifi system around uses exactly the same Qualcomm chipset), as they're a simple solution for people who don't want to wire up their house, but they're pretty expensive and have the exact same problem as wifi repeaters, that a given unit is only going to be able to transmit as good a signal as it gets from the base station.

Ubiquiti's Unifi is effectively a trickle down of enterprise tech, but even they don't actually really advertise it as a consumer system (they have their own mesh system which they aim at consumers). It only really made inroads into the consumer market as those amateur (and often professional) sysadmin types came across it in an enterprise environment (where it's been popular for quite a while now), and realised it's well suited for residential setups too, without anywhere near the price (or complexity) of something like Cisco.

I came across it a few years ago while I was working as a sysadmin for a company that, among other things, did commercial and residential AV installs (things like multiroom audio systems, home cinemas, etc.). Although I was the internal IT guy, I also ended up speccing out a lot of IT systems for residential installs. Because modern AV is so heavily network-based we almost always insisted on handling the network side of things as well on all of our residential jobs (we had a few issues in the early days where customers with network problems would come to us because they couldn't control their AV system with their iPad, and the guys who handled the IT either refused to acknowledge the problem or just disappeared off the face of the earth, so it was a lot easier to just do it ourselves). A lot of the time it was a newly built home (or it was a sufficiently large construction job that we got to do a proper cable run anyway), so I had the benefit of being able to have CAT6 run anywhere and everywhere, which meant, among other things, we could use a proper multiple access point system like Ubiquiti and ensure good wifi coverage throughout the house.

Ubiquiti was really well suited for us because, aside from it being a lot cheaper than most of the other options, it was very easy for our installation engineers to setup, both physically (thanks to PoE) and on the software side. It was also very rare for us to have to have issues with it after installation (and given that labour is typically the bulk of the cost for residential network installs, these things combined can save a lot of money). They also do some more specialist wireless hardware, like outdoor wifi, or point-to-point wireless for connecting a second building you can't run a cable to. What it's not, though, is the absolute fastest-of-the-fast, compared to some of the high-end consumer routers. The newer AC Ubiquiti models are plenty fast for real-world use, though (and you can go with the Pro version if you feel you really need the speed), and if you're running ethernet throughout the house then your devices that most need the bandwidth will probably be hard-wired anyway. This also tends to free up your wireless for devices that actually need it, and unless you're living in a small apartment, a system which gives you very good wifi everywhere throughout the house is usually a better choice than a single-box solution which gives you blazing fast speeds when you're in the same room as the router and a crappy experience when you're at the far corner of the house.

In any case, if you do have an old router lying around, it's worth testing out. It would probably be worth seeing if you can install either DD-WRT or OpenWRT on it, as that gives you the option of running the router as a pure access point (so completely disables all the router functionality which the standard firmware might not allow you to mess with). It also tends to be pretty reliable firmware (although this can vary depending on the device, so make sure to read the release notes for the device you're installing onto).

Apple's airport and time machine products actually tend to be pretty good in terms of speed and coverage (I used an Airport Extreme for a while as a solitary access point in an apartment and it worked great), but I haven't had great experiences trying to use them in multi-access point scenarios. It's definitely worth trying, though, if you've got one lying around.
 

Weevilone

Member
It looks like I got a good 7700k that will run 5GHz at a reasonable voltage. I've decided to delid and grab a Noctua DH-15s. I know the pack-in fan is good, but I'll definitely be buying a second fan. What is the recommended fan for #2, and if I want to consider meager gains, is there a better Noctua fan for #1?
 

Zojirushi

Member
Yo wtf happened to RAM prices during the last couple of years??

I bought 16GB of DDR3 RAM (Corsair Value Select 1333Mhz) in 2012 for roughly 60€.

Now one of the sticks broke and I wanted to to replace it because, you know, RAM's supposed to be "dirt cheap" and now they charge the same amount for just one 8GB stick?

That's essentially double the price from four years ago, wtf is this shit?
 

e90Mark

Member
Yo wtf happened to RAM prices during the last couple of years??

I bought 16GB of DDR3 RAM (Corsair Value Select 1333Mhz) in 2012 for roughly 60€.

Now one of the sticks broke and I wanted to to replace it because, you know, RAM's supposed to be "dirt cheap" and now they charge the same amount for just one 8GB stick?

That's essentially double the price from four years ago, wtf is this shit?

DDR3 is being phased out in favor of DDR4, so prices are going up.
 

Bloodember

Member
Yo wtf happened to RAM prices during the last couple of years??

I bought 16GB of DDR3 RAM (Corsair Value Select 1333Mhz) in 2012 for roughly 60€.

Now one of the sticks broke and I wanted to to replace it because, you know, RAM's supposed to be "dirt cheap" and now they charge the same amount for just one 8GB stick?

That's essentially double the price from four years ago, wtf is this shit?
Ram prices fluctuate all the time. Plus ddr3 is out dated and since not being made a lot now price will rise.
 

bubu

Member
The main consumer brands don't really have any interest in catering to customers who are willing to go to the trouble of wiring up their house with CAT5/6 cable. Not only are they a small portion of the overall market (and growing smaller still, as wifi speeds have increased at a far faster pace than ethernet), but they tend to be the kind of arstechnica-reading, amateur sysadmin types who are far more demanding of their hardware that the typical customer base for a company like Netgear. This is why mesh systems have exploded in popularity over the past year or so (also due to the availability of hardware for it, you'll notice almost every mesh wifi system around uses exactly the same Qualcomm chipset), as they're a simple solution for people who don't want to wire up their house, but they're pretty expensive and have the exact same problem as wifi repeaters, that a given unit is only going to be able to transmit as good a signal as it gets from the base station.

Ubiquiti's Unifi is effectively a trickle down of enterprise tech, but even they don't actually really advertise it as a consumer system (they have their own mesh system which they aim at consumers). It only really made inroads into the consumer market as those amateur (and often professional) sysadmin types came across it in an enterprise environment (where it's been popular for quite a while now), and realised it's well suited for residential setups too, without anywhere near the price (or complexity) of something like Cisco.

I came across it a few years ago while I was working as a sysadmin for a company that, among other things, did commercial and residential AV installs (things like multiroom audio systems, home cinemas, etc.). Although I was the internal IT guy, I also ended up speccing out a lot of IT systems for residential installs. Because modern AV is so heavily network-based we almost always insisted on handling the network side of things as well on all of our residential jobs (we had a few issues in the early days where customers with network problems would come to us because they couldn't control their AV system with their iPad, and the guys who handled the IT either refused to acknowledge the problem or just disappeared off the face of the earth, so it was a lot easier to just do it ourselves). A lot of the time it was a newly built home (or it was a sufficiently large construction job that we got to do a proper cable run anyway), so I had the benefit of being able to have CAT6 run anywhere and everywhere, which meant, among other things, we could use a proper multiple access point system like Ubiquiti and ensure good wifi coverage throughout the house.

Ubiquiti was really well suited for us because, aside from it being a lot cheaper than most of the other options, it was very easy for our installation engineers to setup, both physically (thanks to PoE) and on the software side. It was also very rare for us to have to have issues with it after installation (and given that labour is typically the bulk of the cost for residential network installs, these things combined can save a lot of money). They also do some more specialist wireless hardware, like outdoor wifi, or point-to-point wireless for connecting a second building you can't run a cable to. What it's not, though, is the absolute fastest-of-the-fast, compared to some of the high-end consumer routers. The newer AC Ubiquiti models are plenty fast for real-world use, though (and you can go with the Pro version if you feel you really need the speed), and if you're running ethernet throughout the house then your devices that most need the bandwidth will probably be hard-wired anyway. This also tends to free up your wireless for devices that actually need it, and unless you're living in a small apartment, a system which gives you very good wifi everywhere throughout the house is usually a better choice than a single-box solution which gives you blazing fast speeds when you're in the same room as the router and a crappy experience when you're at the far corner of the house.

In any case, if you do have an old router lying around, it's worth testing out. It would probably be worth seeing if you can install either DD-WRT or OpenWRT on it, as that gives you the option of running the router as a pure access point (so completely disables all the router functionality which the standard firmware might not allow you to mess with). It also tends to be pretty reliable firmware (although this can vary depending on the device, so make sure to read the release notes for the device you're installing onto).

Apple's airport and time machine products actually tend to be pretty good in terms of speed and coverage (I used an Airport Extreme for a while as a solitary access point in an apartment and it worked great), but I haven't had great experiences trying to use them in multi-access point scenarios. It's definitely worth trying, though, if you've got one lying around.

Great read, I was thinking about Ubiquiti setup too and this gives a good insight.
 

Smokey

Member
I've been rocking an i7 4790k cpu combined with an Asus ROG VII Formula mobo and 16gb ram for a while now; all working really well.

However i noticed the CPU is getting hotter (using the stock fan) so looking at an upgrade specifically:

https://www.mwave.com.au/product/noctua-nhu12s-multi-socket-cpu-cooler-ab48912

The case i use is an InWin303 and all my other fans are Noctua's so dont mind the aesthetic.

Any recommendations for either this cooler or alternative? I have my pc on display in the lounge so everyone can see inside!

The Dark Rock 3 Pro looks really cool as does the CryOrig R1 Universal - but i dont think either of those fit...

Thanks!

You're not overclocking that CPU with the stock fan are you? Guess I should ask first if you're OC at all since you are using the stock fan?

Have you checked the thermal paste on the cooler to see what shape it's in?
 
so with taxes here im looking into getting a 1440p monitor with higher than 60hz.
whats the best deal out there?

what kind of price range am i looking at here?
i see plenty of 1440s for 250-300 but all are 60hz.
im also upgrading to a 1070 so if i had a higher fps wouldnt i be subject to tearing at 60hz?

if i must id settle on a 1080p 144hz as framerate is most important to me but id like a 1440

edit-just found this in the event i settle for 1080 id t least have gsync to eliminate tearing correct?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C05C1OK/?tag=neogaf0e-20

thoughts on that one?
 

kuYuri

Member
I'm looking for a budget CPU for an extra Z87 board I have laying around from a previous build. I'm not too familiar with budget intel CPUs, but I was looking at the Intel Pentium G3258 for $49.99 at Microcenter. This would be used as a simple work desktop for my home office. The software being ran would network monitoring, database (3), and server/switch/router/access point GUIs.

Thanks.

Edit - Nevemind, I'm just going to build an i3 7100 with a B250 chipset. Might even wait a little bit and see what AMD has to offer with their new offerings.

Check out the G4560, the new Pentium with hyperthreading. It's a really good price with the performance to back it up too.
 
What do you guys think of this parts list?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Pentium G4560 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor ($75.00 @ B&H)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($53.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($51.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI Radeon RX 470 4GB ARMOR OC Video Card ($169.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.98 @ B&H)
Total: $500.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-30 18:07 EST-0500
 

K1LLER7

Member
Got all the computer parts delivered today and finally built my computer. Just need to install Windows/Drivers. Being my first ever build, I really enjoyed putting everything together. The PSU and getting the correct cables into each required area took a while but got there in the end.


Thanks again to the guys who answered any queries I had.
 

DJ_Lae

Member
Got all the computer parts delivered today and finally built my computer. Just need to install Windows/Drivers. Being my first ever build, I really enjoyed putting everything together. The PSU and getting the correct cables into each required area took a while but got there in the end.

I've built a handful of computers over the years but the part I always dread is hooking up all of the case wires to the motherboard as they're so fiddly and often hard to read.

Once you're done, though, it is a pretty great feeling.
 

K1LLER7

Member
I've built a handful of computers over the years but the part I always dread is hooking up all of the case wires to the motherboard as they're so fiddly and often hard to read.

Once you're done, though, it is a pretty great feeling.
Yeah, amazing feeling. 1st time I tried to power it on, nothing came on....then I realised didn't switch it on from the back haha.

Was trying to be extra carful to make sure i didn't accidently break or bend any pins.
 
I have a question regarding PSUs and inrush current. I was going to get one of SeaSonic's latest Prime PSUs but I saw that it had an inrush current of over 60 amperes on 230v input.

This is a lot more than other PSUs I checked out, but is it something I should even be worrying about to begin with?

Edit: Looking at the Supernova G2, it's at 40 amperes on 230v input, for instance.

I wouldn't worry about it on that supply. Unless you're putting multiple supplies on the same power switch (servers), inrush is not that critical of a spec. Seeing high inrush on a low-end supply from a questionable OEM is disconcerting, but on a top of the line SeaSonic, with huge holdup times? It's fine.

Inrush current is sort of a soap box topic for me, so I'll avoid a longer rant about it, unless someone is specifically interested, haha.
 
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