Thanks for the response, yeah I have read that ASUS was the best brand for Motherboards but reading user reviews on amazon, there seems to be a lot of cases similar to yours.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
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Thanks for the response, yeah I have read that ASUS was the best brand for Motherboards but reading user reviews on amazon, there seems to be a lot of cases similar to yours.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Hi experts!
I have a three year old PC that still runs all games I want to play but I'd like to upgrade the graphics card. I have this:
http://m.canadacomputers.com/mobile/itemid/061075
(Click on specifications)
Can I just go buy a GTX 1070 and replace the old 660? Or is the rest of the computer too old to make that possible?
Thanks for any advice! Still on the newish side to gaming on PC.
Physically speaking, you can swap to the 1070 just fine. The bigger issue is that the rest of the build would almost certainly bottleneck the card, making it not exactly the most economical upgrade.
added_time
Member
Do you have any advice? Should I upgrade to maybe a 1060? Or am I better off just waiting until I get a whole new computer?
JonnyDBrit
Member
Overall the better computer would be more viable, but there's no harm in getting the 1060 now to tide you over I'd say. It would still be a significant boost in performance, and if/when you can put together the money for a CPU - at which point Ryzen should be out and thus offer some more competition in the money - and other bits and pieces.
added_time
Member
Thanks for the reply! My main reason for wanting to upgrade is because I can only get the Dolphin emulator running at 720p. I was hoping for 1080p. Is that something that could be possible just with swapping this card?
JonnyDBrit
Member
Should be pretty easy then. Hell even with a far lesser card you should be able to pull it off.
Atraveller
Banned
Dusktildawn48
Member
building my friends brother a pc. can someone look over my list and let me how it looks plz? dont wanna go any higher in price.
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/dusktildawn48/saved/Nw7sYJ
edit: changed the case to the air 540. its what i have and the case is incredible.
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/dusktildawn48/saved/Nw7sYJ
edit: changed the case to the air 540. its what i have and the case is incredible.
lostsupper
Banned
That build is a mess. Unlocked cpu paired with a non-overclockable board, RAM that outpaces the cpu stock speed, lousy cooler, lousy power supply, comically overpriced Windows key. Back to the drawing board.
OriginofHysteria
Banned
Either get a z270 board or don't get a K processor.
Bloodember
Member
Ok I changed some things first I changed the motherboard tons b250 since your using kaby lake, second I got rid of the k CPU for a non k since you are using a b250, unless you were planning on over clocking then you need a z270 mobo.
I also got rid of the cooler as one comes with the CPU. I also switched the memory to 2400 ram as the board doesn't support overclocking. Also I got rid of windows as you can get it for $25 from here, play-asia.com. If your going to overclock switch the CPU back the the 7600K, get a Z270 board and get 3000MHZ RAM and an H7 Cooler, not the 212 EVO.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-7600 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($220.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI B250 PC MATE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($94.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Intel 600p Series 128GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($63.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.33 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($419.99 @ B&H)
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case ($129.79 @ B&H)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($77.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($17.98 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus VE278H 27.0" 1920x1080 Monitor ($183.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1358.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-07 02:12 EST-0500
Dusktildawn48
Member
Ahhh thanks everyone. Been years since I've paid attention to mobos. Didn't even think about that. But that's why I come to GAF.
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
1. Get an i5-7600 or get a Z motherboard. Do you want to overclock? Then get a K cpu/Z motherboard. If not then just change the cpu to a locked one. If you do get a locked cpu then you can remove the cpu cooler. If you do want to overclock the 212 is fine for a basic overclock. A lot of people shit on it but for the price it is good. If you want a better air cooler you'll be paying about double the price and you'll definitely need it if you are going for serious overclocks. I think the new kabylakes run really hot at 5.0GHz. maybe an AIO would be needed unless you delid.
2. Ram is fine. If it's cheaper to buy 3000MHz sticks then get them. You can pick what speed they run at. I bought 3200 sticks and run them at 2666-2933.
3. Does that case support the optical disk drive? Does it need one? Personally i'd just buy an external one but I don't tend to use physical media anymore.
4. Not sure about the PSU. I highly recommend an EVGA GS/G2/G3 model.
5. You can get Windows 10 for much cheaper. I paid $25.
Been messing around with a number of build possibilities for a number of weeks now, but I'm kinda refocusing on what I actually want to achieve.
Basically my aim now is 1080/60 at High/Ultra. 1440p and 4K are things that I'll probably re-assess in years to come, but they're not important right now. This build will be used exclusively on a 1080 TV set. VR would be nice if I can build something for cheap that supports it but it's not a driving factor. Again, it's not something I intend on buying for another couple of years at the earliest.
I'll be building into a Node 202 for a HTPC/living room gaming build - so I think my main aims need to be cost effective, quiet and cool rather than trying to push the envelope power wise.
What's the lowest I can feasibly go with the parts in order to still comfortably hit 1080/60 on modern games at high settings?
I'm gravitating towards an i3-6100, 8GB RAM and an RX 480 4GB build. Would that hit the spot? Do I run a risk of a 480 being bottlenecked by an i3?
Basically my aim now is 1080/60 at High/Ultra. 1440p and 4K are things that I'll probably re-assess in years to come, but they're not important right now. This build will be used exclusively on a 1080 TV set. VR would be nice if I can build something for cheap that supports it but it's not a driving factor. Again, it's not something I intend on buying for another couple of years at the earliest.
I'll be building into a Node 202 for a HTPC/living room gaming build - so I think my main aims need to be cost effective, quiet and cool rather than trying to push the envelope power wise.
What's the lowest I can feasibly go with the parts in order to still comfortably hit 1080/60 on modern games at high settings?
I'm gravitating towards an i3-6100, 8GB RAM and an RX 480 4GB build. Would that hit the spot? Do I run a risk of a 480 being bottlenecked by an i3?
JonnyDBrit
Member
With an i3-6100, yes, at least in more intensive games. You'd want at least an i5 for say, the Witcher 3.
Jezbollah
Member
Yep I'd agree with this. i5 + 1060 is a nice combo for very solid 1080p gaming.
Nyteshade517
Member
I have a question about RAM and compatibility lists...
For the MSI Z270 SLI Plus motherboard they have a list of RAM that's compatible and there are some versions not listed. The G.Skill RAM I was looking at (F4-3000C15D-16GVKB) isn't listed there but they do list the same model number just without the B on the end. There's also a silver colored version (F4-3000C15D-16GVS) that's not on their list.
Is this just a case of them not testing every RAM kit in existence (which would be a pretty long process) or is there something to worry about?
For the MSI Z270 SLI Plus motherboard they have a list of RAM that's compatible and there are some versions not listed. The G.Skill RAM I was looking at (F4-3000C15D-16GVKB) isn't listed there but they do list the same model number just without the B on the end. There's also a silver colored version (F4-3000C15D-16GVS) that's not on their list.
Is this just a case of them not testing every RAM kit in existence (which would be a pretty long process) or is there something to worry about?
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
not 100% sure here but i think the difference is only the colour. that would be why it has a different model number.
Thank you both. An i5-6500 is what I was originally basing my build on but wondered if I could save money and still achieve what I wanted to with an i3. Back to the i5 then.
My next sticking point is motherboards. I know I don't need a Z series as I won't be overclocking, but what's the difference to my build between a H170, a H110 and a B150?
AppleSeason
Member
I built a new computer during the past month, but I still haven't bought a new card (currently using a GTX 460 OC). While it would be cool to finally upgrade, right now the only game in my backlog that would make use of it is Doom 2016. Everything else is indies and even Overwatch runs decently.
Should I get a GTX 1060 6 gb now (knowing that I won't use it a lot until some months later), or wait for a possible 1100 series card if it is released during summer?
Should I get a GTX 1060 6 gb now (knowing that I won't use it a lot until some months later), or wait for a possible 1100 series card if it is released during summer?
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
the difference is just what features are included. B150 < H110 < H170. B is meant for business users and H is for home users. Just get one that has all the features you want and is within your budget.
i don't think Volta will be here any time soon. we're still waiting on a 1080 ti. i don't see AMD offering anything that will force nvidia to put any new cards out. maybe some price drops but that's it. so i'd wait until AMD's Vega cards come out. if you're not interested in buying an AMD card then hopefully you'll be able to get a 1060 for a bit cheaper than right now.
Darkstorne
Member
That depends on your monitor. If you plan on sticking to 1080p for the forseeable future, then a 1060 will be everything you need, likely maxing out most new games at 1080p60 for years. If you're looking into 4k or 144hz monitors, then it might be worth waiting, but it'll be a very long wait (possibly this time next year before an 1160/1170).
AppleSeason
Member
I'm sticking with 1080p for now, so I won't be needing a lot more (also 300€ -/+ is my limit after just buying the computer). The deadline was July 2017, when I am assisting to a big lanparty and I will forcefully need one.
living room's media center.
Darkstorne
Member
Then a 1060 should be everything you need. And there's no chance of the 1100 series starting before July this year. Unless you're waiting on a 1080Ti, now is a great time to buy an Nvidia GPU.
Here's a couple of graphs for you. One for Doom, one for an average over 16 different games. For the record I play with a GTX 970 and usually max out everything at 1080p60, with exceptions like the Witcher 3 where I disable HairWorks and drop a couple of settings down from Ultra to High to maintain a solid 60fps. The 1060 is noticeably more powerful than that:
ISee
Member
Theoretically an i3 can be enough for 60 fps gaming (in many cases) and the 480 is also a capable 1080p/60 card.
But amd cards tend to have a higher cpu overhead (in dx11) and aren't necessary a good match for low end cpus. It's still doable though and certainly not the end of the world.
A low budget Kabylake Pentium + 2x4gb DDR4 2400 + 1060 6gb + b250 MB ($477) should give you better performance for a somewhat similar price. Paired with dd4 2400 the cheaper pentium should be about as fast as the i3 6100 (maybe even a tiny bit faster in gaming) and the 1060 won't stress your CPU as much in DX11 and also give you better performance (most of the time, there are always exceptions). The next question is: Is it worth pairing a ~$240 gpu with a ~$90 cpu in the first place? Well this really depends on your budget (or willingness to spend money) and what you want your PC to do. Open world AAA games will be a problem for this build (still doable though, just expect some drops to the low 50s/high 40s) but more linear, less CPU heavy titles like Resident Evil 7, For Honor or Dark Souls 3 should run beautifully. Also there is always the option to cap the fps to 30 and to use the extra GPU to downsample from a higher resolution.
4.8ghz @ 1.264v ?
wow
DeadlyVirus
Member
Recommend me a monitor, GAF. Sub $300, not just for gaming, but also for work (swivel and 1440p are a plus).
AppleSeason
Member
Thanks. I've been stuck for the last years with a PS4, so pretty much even medium settings will look amazing to me.
Btw, This is how things are looking so far:
I'm trying to pick between the Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 G1 Gaming 6GB GDDR5 and the Asus Dual GTX 1060 OC 6GB GDDR5. I'm a bit clueless after so many years and not sure if they are pretty much the same. The asus one would look a bit better given the black and white of the case and motherboard.
Celcius
°Temp. member
Right now I'm currently 2 hours into another 8 hour real bench test @ 1.248v
We'll see if it goes all the way...
Myoclonic Jerk
Member
Hey guys,
I managed to buy a couple of old laptops from my employer for cheap. They have formatted both so I will need to buy/get windows for them.
What is the cheapest way to do that. I don't mind windows 7, I actually prefer 7 if it's an option. As for Office I already have 365 and got 2 more spots so I'm sorted
Thanks in advnace
I managed to buy a couple of old laptops from my employer for cheap. They have formatted both so I will need to buy/get windows for them.
What is the cheapest way to do that. I don't mind windows 7, I actually prefer 7 if it's an option. As for Office I already have 365 and got 2 more spots so I'm sorted
Thanks in advnace
JonnyDBrit
Member
You go around online sellers, like those you can find here: https://www.reddit.com/r/microsoftsoftwareswap/
You should be able to put the iso for Windows 10 onto a USB stick as a bootable drive I believe, so do the install, and then just activate the keys.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
so Ryzen is releasing next month, I am planning to buy and build my first gaming PC, maybe I should hold off and wait few weeks and see what happens with the price of intel CPU?
Also, when you are building a PC from scratch, do you buy all the stuff within days, or do it over few weeks to make sure you get the best possible price (waiting for sales)?
Also, when you are building a PC from scratch, do you buy all the stuff within days, or do it over few weeks to make sure you get the best possible price (waiting for sales)?
I do it over a period of time. But my mind changes on builds and then new tech comes out as I'm deciding sometimes.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
even if you dno't have a built PC already? like you buy the components and just let them sit for a few weeks until you buy everything else and build it?
JonnyDBrit
Member
It's what I did the first time, though that was partially forced by circumstance - I found the CPU I went with by chance (and have somewhat regretted it in the long run, but it was a decent enough pickup at the time and for my initial entry), bought the motherboard from Scan based off that, and then had to wait a few weeks trying to pick up a GTX 970 for a reasonable price on ebay. If I had bought new or for a fixed price I probably could have done it a lot sooner.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
so I assume you saved good money by doing that right?
Also, do you recommend waiting for ryzen to be released to see what happens with prices?
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
Right now I'm currently 2 hours into another 8 hour real bench test @ 1.248v
We'll see if it goes all the way...
4.8 at 1.248V damn.
here i am with 4.5 at 1.34V. it is skylake but still pretty bad
Oh yeah, Months sometimes ,but I'm probably an outlier.
This is one group that's been sitting since Nov and I've been adding all along.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Well, the FX-6350 was £75 (secondhand from CEX), I think, when its weaker little brother the 6300 still has a sales price typically above £80, if not closer to £90. Picked up the 970 for £155, which was well below retail prices at the time, and generally good for the secondhand prices then as well (though, seen some go for lower since). So yes, I did save some money, but on the CPU end of things, that saving wasn't the best I could have made (in the sense that the limits became apparent quite quickly). Just got an i7-6700k off LilJoka for £100-£150 or so short of the retail price, and that'll probably last me far longer than the FX-6350 would have.
Waiting for Ryzen is useful if you're wanting to save a bit, both because it may affect intel prices, but also because we may get lucky and it turns out they put out some good hardware in itself.
Myoclonic Jerk
Member
Thanks. Is this legal?
JonnyDBrit
Member
Yes. It's generally a matter of people who've bought bulk sets of keys, and then sell off the spares - Microsoft already has their money so it doesn't matter. The reddit also has put a cap on new sellers, to try and limit one-shot outsiders trying to scam people.
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
not entirely sure but i've seen some people say that after a few months Microsoft will deactivate their license. I bought my Windows 10 license from there back in June and it's still activated.
Tell me about it. Nvidia's CES presentation didn't start until the early hours of the morning here, however due to the many rumours of an announcement at CES, I didn't want to ignore the possibility that Amazon would begin taking pre-orders soon afterwards. I deprived myself of a good night's sleep for nothing.
Current rumours point to an announcement at PAX East next month, but I wouldn't hold your breath. I'm certainly not holding mine.
TC McQueen
Member
I buy over a period of time, like a month or two.
The problem with that strategy now is that RAM prices are going to get worse from here on out, so you're better off grabbing whatever deals you can get now if you're planning to build in the next few months.
Myoclonic Jerk
Member
nkarafo
Member
I have 16GB right now since i hear that 8GB is starting to become insufficient. However, i use a chunk of this RAM as RAMDisk. About 1 or 2 GBs. So my actual RAM is 14GB.
Should i upgrade to 32GB then? Or wait it out until RAM sticks become cheaper again? I wonder if i will be able to find DDR3 sticks in one year from now.
Should i upgrade to 32GB then? Or wait it out until RAM sticks become cheaper again? I wonder if i will be able to find DDR3 sticks in one year from now.
ISee
Member
Why exactly are you using a ram disk? Work related?
It would make more sense to not write stuff into your ram when you want to game (when a game really needs full 16gb...) and to allocate more ram for 'disk' usage for whenever you need it during work (whatever that is).
It's cheaper, makes more sense and you aren't spending money on stuff you can't reuse on a future build.
nkarafo
Member
Since i don't have an SSD, i use it for everyday-use things. Things like my whole Kodi setup, Firefox Portable, Winamp and the cache folders of various applications that use thousands of small files. It speeds up all these programs significantly (more so than a SSD) and reduces wear+tear on my actual disks.
But you are right. I can just disable it whenever i have to run a RAM demanding game. But i was thinking of something like The Evil Within, that keeps a cache folder on the disk, i could use some RAM for it instead.
Nealand Liquor
Member
Alright so after a bunch of days nailing down a new build I think I got it figured out. Mind looking it over and letting me know what you think?
I am open to a completely new direction, meaning I'm not married to intel or nvidia if a different build will give better performance at the same or lower price.
Do appreciate everyone's input so far.
PCPartPicker part list: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/PT4jLD
Price breakdown by merchant: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/PT4jLD/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($312.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Seidon 120V VER.2 76.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Motherboard: MSI Z270I GAMING PRO CARBON AC Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($233.12 @ shopRBC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($154.98 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Intel 600p Series 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($133.98 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($84.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card ($339.50 @ Vuugo)
Case: Fractal Design Core 500 Mini ITX Desktop Case ($74.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: Rosewill 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Optical Drive: Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($64.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Total: $1589.51
Thanks
I am open to a completely new direction, meaning I'm not married to intel or nvidia if a different build will give better performance at the same or lower price.
Do appreciate everyone's input so far.
PCPartPicker part list: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/PT4jLD
Price breakdown by merchant: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/PT4jLD/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($312.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Seidon 120V VER.2 76.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Motherboard: MSI Z270I GAMING PRO CARBON AC Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($233.12 @ shopRBC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($154.98 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Intel 600p Series 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($133.98 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($84.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card ($339.50 @ Vuugo)
Case: Fractal Design Core 500 Mini ITX Desktop Case ($74.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: Rosewill 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Optical Drive: Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($64.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Total: $1589.51
Thanks
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