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NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti launch/review day - 2017/03/09

Probably wouldn't rebuild unless you're still on platter drives. Might be worth it if you are moving to fully solid state.
Hmm. I am virtually SSD only. I already have 2, one 250GB for the OS (and some stuff) and a 500GB for specific games. Also have a 2TB for everything else.
Still a rebuild is around £2300. A 1080ti alone is a mere £800, maybe £1000+ if I add a 1TB SSD.
Could get myself a nice guitar with the difference!
 

Wallach

Member
Hmm. I am virtually SSD only. I already have 2, one 250GB for the OS (and some stuff) and a 500GB for specific games. Also have a 2TB for everything else.
Still a rebuild is around £2300. A 1080ti alone is a mere £800, maybe £1000+ if I add a 1TB SSD.
Could get myself a nice guitar with the difference!

would probably shred in that case
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
The info I have found online for it's dimensions are: (H) x (L) = (5.51" / 140mm) x (11.42" / 290 mm). If you could confirm those, that'd be awesome.

Also, if it helps I have a Rosewill Redbone U3 Midtower Case

As promised here are direct measurements:

3vL59zG.jpg

A5RacJs.jpg

MUH8Jvv.jpg
 

JCH!

Member
So, I'm getting a 1080 ti next week but I am still running an i7 4790k and DDR3 RAM.

Should I get a 7700k+DDR4 combo now to get the most out of the 1080 Ti or should I just hold it and wait for Coffee Lake?

I really don't know what to do right now.
 
So, I'm getting a 1080 ti next week but I am still running an i7 4970k and DDR3 RAM.

Should I get a 7700k+DDR4 combo now to get the most out of the 1080 Ti or should I just hold it and wait for Coffee Lake?

I really don't know what to do right now.

You are fine. That's a complete rebuild for like a 10% increase in CPU performance.
 

EatChildren

Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
I think my last question at this point is why, exactly, Gigabyte have both the GTX 1080 Ti AORUS and Xtreme editions. Why ship a marginally lesser clocked variant when they could simply brand it Xtreme and ship as is? Most of the hardware architecture seems to be same, minus some frivolous shit. Makes me think the only reason the slightly lesser AORUS is branded non-Xtreme is due to being unable to reach the Xtreme clocks.
 

AtlAntA

Member
I think my last question at this point is why, exactly, Gigabyte have both the GTX 1080 Ti AORUS and Xtreme editions. Why ship a marginally lesser clocked variant when they could simply brand it Xtreme and ship as is? Most of the hardware architecture seems to be same, minus some frivolous shit. Makes me think the only reason the slightly lesser AORUS is branded non-Xtreme is due to being unable to reach the Xtreme clocks.

I believe that is called binning. It's selecting gpus on their capability to run at certain speeds on certain voltages and temps. I've read somewhere (probably this thread) that there is at least one AIB partner who has admitted to doing this but i believe they all do it.
 

Wallach

Member
I believe that is called binning. It's selecting gpus on their capability to run at certain speeds on certain voltages and temps. I've read somewhere (probably this thread) that there is at least one AIB partner who has admitted to doing this but i believe they all do it.

Not all of them do it, though it would be nice if they did.
 
So, I'm getting a 1080 ti next week but I am still running an i7 4970k and DDR3 RAM.

Should I get a 7700k+DDR4 combo now to get the most out of the 1080 Ti or should I just hold it and wait for Coffee Lake?

I really don't know what to do right now.

I have a 4770k and 16gb 1866 ddr3 and thought about upgrading also but in the end i think I'm just going to wait. I should be good at least i think.
 

KScorp

Member
So, I'm getting a 1080 ti next week but I am still running an i7 4970k and DDR3 RAM.

Should I get a 7700k+DDR4 combo now to get the most out of the 1080 Ti or should I just hold it and wait for Coffee Lake?

I really don't know what to do right now.

Your current build isn't going to be bottle-necking your 1080 Ti.
 

jrcbandit

Member
So, I'm getting a 1080 ti next week but I am still running an i7 4970k and DDR3 RAM.

Should I get a 7700k+DDR4 combo now to get the most out of the 1080 Ti or should I just hold it and wait for Coffee Lake?

I really don't know what to do right now.
Lol, don't be silly. That CPU will be good for another 2-3 years as long as you overclock it. Overclock it to 4.3-4.5 GHz range, I'm doing 4.4 GHz because it takes too much voltage for me to hit 4.5 GHz, poor luck of the draw when it comes to silicon lottery for me. My 1080 Ti is also a very poor overclocker for the core.... Oh wait, is it a 4790k? That doesn't quite as desperately need an overclock as the 4770k series. Although a 4790k could still be overclocked to 4.6-4.8 GHz range, 5 if super lucky.

CPU upgrades have been very minor over the last few years, and high clocked DDR3 isn't that much slower than DDR4 in real world performance. Hopefully, you don't have DDR3 running at 1600 or slower, my DDr3 is at 2166. Try waiting it out for DDR5 which should be 2019-2020ish, who knows Intel might finally release a decent CPU upgrade by then..
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
What should we be getting for Timespy graphic scores with TI's? I'm getting 10,005 overclocked, but I see sites like guru3d getting 10,900. That seems like a huge difference for a card clocked exactly the same.
 

EatChildren

Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
I believe that is called binning. It's selecting gpus on their capability to run at certain speeds on certain voltages and temps. I've read somewhere (probably this thread) that there is at least one AIB partner who has admitted to doing this but i believe they all do it.

Hmm. Does that mean in screwing myself over by getting the lesser AUROS?
 

Orion514

Member
As promised here are direct measurements:

Thank you, sir. I'm thinking I'll just hold on to my pre-order of the EVGA SC2 as its dimensions are similar, even a bit smaller than my 980 Ti. I'll just have to live with not having 2 HDMI ports, and a tad slower OC mode clock speed.
 

Xyber

Member
What should we be getting for Timespy graphic scores with TI's? I'm getting 10,005 overclocked, but I see sites like guru3d getting 10,900. That seems like a huge difference for a card clocked exactly the same.

With a boost clock sitting at 2000-2060 for the most part I got:

10162 with G-sync and Shadowplay enabled.
10209 with G-sync disabled
10512 with G-sync and Shadowplay disabled.
 

Grassy

Member
I think my last question at this point is why, exactly, Gigabyte have both the GTX 1080 Ti AORUS and Xtreme editions. Why ship a marginally lesser clocked variant when they could simply brand it Xtreme and ship as is? Most of the hardware architecture seems to be same, minus some frivolous shit. Makes me think the only reason the slightly lesser AORUS is branded non-Xtreme is due to being unable to reach the Xtreme clocks.

I believe that is called binning. It's selecting gpus on their capability to run at certain speeds on certain voltages and temps. I've read somewhere (probably this thread) that there is at least one AIB partner who has admitted to doing this but i believe they all do it.

I posted this in response to someone in this thread who said EVGA binned all their 980 Ti cards, which they didn't, it was only the Kingpin cards and it was still not a guarantee that you'd be able to reach a certain overclock as it was based on ASIC Quality. So the higher the ASIC Quality, the higher the price they charged.

They didn't bin all their cards, they only offered binned variants of the Kingpin based on ASIC Quality - http://www.evga.com/articles/00944/EVGA-GeForce-GTX-980-Ti-KINGPIN/

Both my 980 Ti SC's overclock from ~1110mhz base to ~1550mhz on the core.

That said, I have no idea how Gigabyte are binning their GPU's and if they guarantee a certain overclock.
 

EatChildren

Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
I posted this in response to someone in this thread who said EVGA binned all their 980 Ti cards, which they didn't, it was only the Kingpin cards and it was still not a guarantee that you'd be able to reach a certain overclock as it was based on ASIC Quality. So the higher the ASIC Quality, the higher the price they charged.

So end of the day is entirely a gamble: totally possible to grab any card and hit high clocks with adequate cooling and volts. It's just a lottery.

Makes sense. My Gainward Phoenix 1080 is the "lesser" OC variant but in practice OCs extremely well. Sits 1950 - 2000+mhz clock in most games.
 

telasoman

Member
So, I'm getting a 1080 ti next week but I am still running an i7 4970k and DDR3 RAM.

Should I get a 7700k+DDR4 combo now to get the most out of the 1080 Ti or should I just hold it and wait for Coffee Lake?

I really don't know what to do right now.

I'm in the exact same boat. I was close to getting a 7700k, but after research I decided not too.

I also think you should wait for Cannonlake or Icelake instead of Coffee Lake. New process which should come with some new features to be worth waiting a couple months.



My 1080ti using the Kraken G10 with a Corsair H55 has been going strong the last 2 weeks. OC is around 2050 MHz and caps out at around 58C under heavy load and I've had 0 issues with it.

I might play around with increasing it more, but so far so good. Card is fantastic thus far.
 

Grassy

Member
So end of the day is entirely a gamble: totally possible to grab any card and hit high clocks with adequate cooling and volts. It's just a lottery.

Makes sense. My Gainward Phoenix 1080 is the "lesser" OC variant but in practice OCs extremely well. Sits 1950 - 2000+mhz clock in most games.

I found Gigabyte's 'GPU Gauntlet sorting' website which explains how they cherry-pick the GPU's, although it looks damn old - http://www.gigabyte.com.au/MicroSite/72/feature.html
 

Wallach

Member
With a boost clock sitting at 2000-2060 for the most part I got:

10162 with G-sync and Shadowplay enabled.
10209 with G-sync disabled
10512 with G-sync and Shadowplay disabled.

Looks about right to me. I haven't messed with my STRIX settings but it looks like the boost hits ~1936 out of the box, and I got 9915 with G-Sync disabled first run.
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
With a boost clock sitting at 2000-2060 for the most part I got:

10162 with G-sync and Shadowplay enabled.
10209 with G-sync disabled
10512 with G-sync and Shadowplay disabled.

Thank you, I thought about it some and decided to disable Rivatuner OSD, doing so instantly jumped the score (confirmed with several runs).

hitting 10439 now. I guess that OSD running during the benchmark actually saps a little performance. Clock jumps around from 2000 up to 2063 max. Checking GPU-Z shows the changing clock is caused by a power limit. I'm already at +117% and +100 core voltage. I guess that means she's tapped out unless a custom bios comes out, right?
 
Ended up taking out the Aorus and put in the Gaming X. Sending Aorus for a RMA tomorrow. With the same fan curve I am getting 73 degrees max after running heaven for an hour at 1974.

With the Aorus I'd be lucky to get through a few minutes OC and in regular stock clocks up to 81 degrees easily.

Hopefully the next aorus that comes in works out for me.

I will need to look at my air flow in my case because if I take off on of the glass panels on the side it drops about 6 degrees.
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
Ended up taking out the Aorus and put in the Gaming X. Sending Aorus for a RMA tomorrow. With the same fan curve I am getting 73 degrees max after running heaven for an hour at 1974.

With the Aorus I'd be lucky to get through a few minutes OC and in regular stock clocks up to 81 degrees easily.

Hopefully the next aorus that comes in works out for me.

Curious which card you'll end up liking most and keeping.
 
Curious which card you'll end up liking most and keeping.

The weaker one I'll throw into a computer at work where I won't be gaming on and just using it for quad monitors/4k rendering etc.

Also probably going to swap out my power supply. I've been getting the same amount of coil whine in 3 different cards over the last day all from different companies and different models. Something has to be up.
 

JaseC

gave away the keys to the kingdom.
I am so sorry to hear that. It's heart breaking! Have you been able to test it on another PC? Just to make sure.

I'll be taking it to a mate's place later today, but I just tried to install the latest drivers and couldn't even complete the installation, so, yeah, I'm fairly certain the GPU is more or less toast.
 

Renekton

Member
I'll be taking it to a mate's place later today, but I just tried to install the latest drivers and couldn't even complete the installation, so, yeah, I'm fairly certain the GPU is more or less toast.
Oh man, that sucks. I know the deflating feeling.
 
I'll be taking it to a mate's place later today, but I just tried to install the latest drivers and couldn't even complete the installation, so, yeah, I'm fairly certain the GPU is more or less toast.

On the "bright" side, Newegg AU will have FTW3s in stock on the 9th, so I shouldn't be without a GPU for long.

Someone must've knocked the card around pretty hard during transport. Inertia can do a number on the internals without any apparent damage to the outside at all. That, or the card should've never passed QC at the factory. Anyway, hopefully you'll win the silicon lottery with the new card. It's only fair.
 

JaseC

gave away the keys to the kingdom.
I just ordered from newegg too, since amazon was OOS. Do newegg repackaged returned goods as new? Heard some etailers do so, and hence they 'restock' faster...

I've no idea. This is the first item I've ever purchased from Newegg, haha.

Someone must've knocked the card around pretty hard during transport. Inertia can do a number on the internals without any apparent damage to the outside at all. That, or the card should've never passed QC at the factory. Anyway, hopefully you'll win the silicon lottery with the new card. It's only fair.

Well, it was working fine for the first day-and-a-half, and running Styx 2 without a framerate cap did put it through its paces, so it didn't arrive in a sorry state. I think I just lost the lottery this time around, though I am inclined to agree that the card wasn't sufficiently tested.
 

JCH!

Member
You are fine. That's a complete rebuild for like a 10% increase in CPU performance.

I have a 4770k and 16gb 1866 ddr3 and thought about upgrading also but in the end i think I'm just going to wait. I should be good at least i think.

Your current build isn't going to be bottle-necking your 1080 Ti.

Lol, don't be silly. That CPU will be good for another 2-3 years as long as you overclock it. Overclock it to 4.3-4.5 GHz range, I'm doing 4.4 GHz because it takes too much voltage for me to hit 4.5 GHz, poor luck of the draw when it comes to silicon lottery for me. My 1080 Ti is also a very poor overclocker for the core.... Oh wait, is it a 4790k? That doesn't quite as desperately need an overclock as the 4770k series. Although a 4790k could still be overclocked to 4.6-4.8 GHz range, 5 if super lucky.

CPU upgrades have been very minor over the last few years, and high clocked DDR3 isn't that much slower than DDR4 in real world performance. Hopefully, you don't have DDR3 running at 1600 or slower, my DDr3 is at 2166. Try waiting it out for DDR5 which should be 2019-2020ish, who knows Intel might finally release a decent CPU upgrade by then..

I'm in the exact same boat. I was close to getting a 7700k, but after research I decided not too.

I also think you should wait for Cannonlake or Icelake instead of Coffee Lake. New process which should come with some new features to be worth waiting a couple months.

Got it. Not worth upgrading yet.

Thanks for the advice, guys.
 
The Aorus Xtreme is tempting, but the sag worries me a little bit. Although I guess if I end up liquid cooling it that won't be a problem. On the other hand, if LC is the end goal then I might as well get either the Seahawk or a FE and install a GPU block and backplate myself. Decisions, decisions...
 
The Aorus Xtreme is tempting, but the sag worries me a little bit. Although I guess if I end up liquid cooling it that won't be a problem. On the other hand, if LC is the end goal then I might as well get either the Seahawk or a FE and install a GPU block and backplate myself. Decisions, decisions...

Yeah I'm also worried about the card sagging it looks heavy. If I need to I can just mold a support from thermomorph plastic. Or just jam some legos or an action figure underneath.
 
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