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[BlackGoku03]

What do you guys think about Malwarebytes as a free Anti-Virus prog?

I was using AVG and it seems that it didn't caught some spyware that is now on my PC because my Window Live Messenger is sending publicity around...

.

That program has fixed many computers I've cleaned. It even cleaned some computers of the smit fraud malware. I love it. It works best in Safe Mode.

I use that and AVG as AVG will not catch everything.

Na man an overclocked processor will last forever and a stock Q6600 is only 2.4 gig. I thought video editing was processor heavy so your going to want more speed and if you want to play Crysis/Far Cry2/etc you will need at least 3.2Gig on your processor. All Q6600 now a days are GO stepping and will hit 3.2 easy without much work at all. Here is a cheaper motherboard that is also a pretty good overclocker so when the time come and you want to overclock you will be able too.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128345

I would really recommend a good CPU fan, even if you don't want to overclock it now. In a few years you might want to for the extra performance. Here our a couple of great Quad fans.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185074

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608002 (This is my fan and I love it but its expensive.)

The HD4850 is a great GPU but you can find it cheaper then that, try other makers. But it will run whatever you want to play.

Thanks man. I think I'll go with the mobo you suggested. If it's as easy and safe as you're saying it is to overclock the cpu then I'll do it as soon as everything is set up.

I'll keep looking to see if I can get the HD4850 cheaper. I just want one that is going to play anything without issues and that looks to be it.

 

[Hazaro]

That program has fixed many computers I've cleaned. It even cleaned some computers of the smit fraud malware. I love it. It works best in Safe Mode.

I use that and AVG as AVG will not catch everything.


Thanks man. I think I'll go with the mobo you suggested. If it's as easy and safe as you're saying it is to overclock the cpu then I'll do it as soon as everything is set up.

I'll keep looking to see if I can get the HD4850 cheaper. I just want one that is going to play anything without issues and that looks to be it.

It's all good, just grab one of the $150 + rebate ones with the free crap.

 

[Clever Pun]

I'll keep looking to see if I can get the HD4850 cheaper. I just want one that is going to play anything without issues and that looks to be it.

Yeah, that 4850 will probably be fine, unless you play at some insane resolution. I've been really pleased with my 4830 at 1440x900 so far.

 

[rc213]

Hey guys just put together my first computer! Congrats to me!

Anyways the motherboard comes with a vga slot which i need for my old crt monitor. When i installed a radeon 4670 does that mean the motherboard can't output video at all? I tried it and it powered on but didn't get any signal in the vga.

Your HD4670 should have come with a DVI2VGA, Use that instead.

 

[lachesis]

So. here's my final upgrade parts that I'll be buying soon.

mainly CPU, MB and Ram upgrade, while everything else stays the same, for a 3d workstation that my wife uses at home. (not much for games)

CPU: Core i7 920
MB: Asus P6T Deluxe (Thanks, Hazaro)

RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145225
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231222

What do you think I should get for the RAM? I'm only buying 3gb, because the computer has to be compatible with her computer at work, which is running Win XP 32bit, and 32bit version of 3DS Max 08 (I think) ... I heard 64bit 3dsMax 08 isn't compatible with 32 bit version, nor the 32bit app running on 64bit app on 32bit mode isn't also compatible... (please correct me if I'm wrong.)

Anyhow, I'm planning to dual-bios it so that I can use it on stock speed normally, and use OC'd setup (I'm gunning for 3.8ghz with my Zamlan 9700 fan.. hope it would work.) for my wife work session.

I mean, it's only 50 dollar (gasp) difference, so I could take it, but is it not worth it?

and 2nd question is... will my 520w PSU good enough to sustain 3.8 ghz oc'ed 920? I mean, Hazaro said it should be okay, but I saw this online...

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cpus/2008/11/06/overclocking-intel-core-i7-920/14

If this is power consumption w/o GPU, then if my GPU's running full... (which is around 150 I think,) I might hear some loud bang...

 

[godhandiscen]

I wouldn't risk it unless your PSU is one of those that actually give as much wattage as they advertise (very few).

 

[YuriLowell]

So it looks like I hit a ceiling with my phenom II. 3.5ghz.

Does anyone think I should get 2 sticks of DDR2-1066 @ 4 gigs, and ditch my 4x1GB of DDR2-800?

Would I get a better clock?

 

[MWS Natural]

What do you guys think about this PC for gaming and general usage?

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=9180423&type=product&id=1218046802234

I know most of you are against buying pre-built but I can throw this on my best buy cc and not have to wait till I save more for a PC.

 

[godhandiscen]

So it looks like I hit a ceiling with my phenom II. 3.5ghz.

Does anyone think I should get 2 sticks of DDR2-1066 @ 4 gigs, and ditch my 4x1GB of DDR2-800?

Would I get a better clock?

No, you have already hit the point of diminishing returns.

 

[VictimOfGrief]

What do you guys think about this PC for gaming and general usage?

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=9180423&type=product&id=1218046802234

I know most of you are against buying pre-built but I can throw this on my best buy cc and not have to wait till I save more for a PC.

Decent. I would be wary of heat/air flow and it sounds like from the reviews on the site that the PSU is a POS which picking up an aftermarket one would make sense (and be cheap).

 

[FoxSpirit]

What do you guys think about this PC for gaming and general usage?

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=9180423&type=product&id=1218046802234

I know most of you are against buying pre-built but I can throw this on my best buy cc and not have to wait till I save more for a PC.

Generally looks okay, is the price good value? Also, cheap power supply, probably pretty noisy... okay, definitely noisy with only 360(375?)W. Also, the BIOS doesn't let you OC if you wanted that. Also, ventilation looks a bit weak, but that may be enough in a midi-tower.
Strikes me as a bit pricey, but that may just the the i7.

Your choice, really.

edit: So yeah, we agree.

 

[godhandiscen]

What do you guys think about this PC for gaming and general usage?

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=9180423&type=product&id=1218046802234

I know most of you are against buying pre-built but I can throw this on my best buy cc and not have to wait till I save more for a PC.

If you can build it, you will save yourself some cash, and end up with slightly better components. Also, most likely that is using some cheap mobo that will not allow you to overclock. The whole point of the i7 920 is that you can OC it over 1GHZ. If you are not going to OC it, then go for a cheaper higuer clocked dual core and save yourself even more money.

 

[Hazaro]

I wouldn't risk it unless your PSU is one of those that actually give as much wattage as they advertise (very few).

He said 520w modular.

Can't think of too many of those, Corsair, TT so should be fine.

 

[MWS Natural]

If you can build it, you will save yourself some cash, and end up with slightly better components. Also, most likely that is using some cheap mobo that will not allow you to overclock. The whole point of the i7 920 is that you can OC it over 1GHZ. If you are not going to OC it, then go for a cheaper higuer clocked dual core and save yourself even more money.

Yeah I agree, only downside is that I will have to wait till I have the cash. I guess I will wait, no reason to jump in now and wind up losing out in the end with an inferior product.

 

[lachesis]

He said 520w modular.

Can't think of too many of those, Corsair, TT so should be fine.

It's indeed Corsiar 520... so I'm hoping it would be alright. Well, according to my online calculator, it's pretty safe - that even if I turn on the Vcore to 1.6, it's still within 90% of the total power... and according to the OC guide, it's about 1.35v that's required for 3.8 - 4.0ghz... and for that, the whole thing came down to just little bit over 400w.

Now, I'm actually looking into replacing the Zalman 9700 to TRUE 120.. which I should have gotten in the first place. Welp, I could use that Zalman for my 2nd Core Duo computer... just replacing the Arctic Freezer, if I have any room left in the Coolermaster Centurion 5.

 

[Hazaro]

Unless you buy a 1366 to 775 adapter kit you need a socket 1366 cooler.

It's indeed Corsiar 520... so I'm hoping it would be alright. Well, according to my online calculator, it's pretty safe - that even if I turn on the Vcore to 1.6, it's still within 90% of the total power... and according to the OC guide, it's about 1.35v that's required for 3.8 - 4.0ghz... and for that, the whole thing came down to just little bit over 400w.

Now, I'm actually looking into replacing the Zalman 9700 to TRUE 120.. which I should have gotten in the first place. Welp, I could use that Zalman for my 2nd Core Duo computer... just replacing the Arctic Freezer, if I have any room left in the Coolermaster Centurion 5.

 

[lachesis]

Unless you buy a 1366 to 775 adapter kit you need a socket 1366 cooler.

I was thinking about buying adapter for Zalman 9700, but Thermalright has the 1366 version of TRUE now... so I'll be going for it. Hope it's as good as they say...

 

[godhandiscen]

He said 520w modular.

Can't think of too many of those, Corsair, TT so should be fine.

I didn't read that. Sorry, I am OCD about PSU's.

 

[lachesis]

I didn't read that. Sorry, I am OCD about PSU's.

Actually, it's my bad - I should've written the maker - but I was on my way out from my work, so I was rather in a hurry.

 

[Cheeto]

Anyone know of a chart that puts laptop CPU's in some kind of general performance ranking. I've never really looked at it, but the name/numbering schemes just don't seem to help.

 

[VictimOfGrief]

I was thinking about buying adapter for Zalman 9700, but Thermalright has the 1366 version of TRUE now... so I'll be going for it. Hope it's as good as they say...

Yeah the TRUE kicks the living crap out of the other coolers out there right now.

On stock setup for the 920, w/ speed stepping and such, I'm seeing temps of 20-27C on idle and no more than 48C on load on stock settings.

Used it now on two builds and it's quite the heatsink

 

[K.Jack]

Anyone know of a chart that puts laptop CPU's in some kind of general performance ranking. I've never really looked at it, but the name/numbering schemes just don't seem to help.

I can put together a Top ~20 of current generation Duos and Quads off the top of my head.

X9100 - 3.06Ghz - 6MB L2 cache - 1066Mhz FSB - 45w
T9800 - 2.93Ghz
QX9300 - 2.53Ghz - 12 MB L2 cache - 1066Mhz FSB - 45w
T9600 - 2.80Ghz
P9600 - 2.66Ghz
T9550 - 2.66Ghz
Q9100 - 2.26Ghz - 12MB L2 cache - 45w
P9500 - 2.53Ghz
T9400 - 2.53Ghz
P8700 - 2.53Ghz - 3MB L2 cache
Q9000 - 2.0Ghz - 6MB L2 cache
P8600 - 2.4Ghz - 3MB
P8400 - 2.26Ghz - 3MB
P7450 - 2.1Ghz - 3MB
P7350 - 2.0Ghz - 3MB

Q = Quad
X = Extreme, overclockable if allowed by BIOS
T = 35 watt, P= 25

This list's order is only endorsed by me. All are 1066Mhz FSB, all Duos are 6MB, unless stated otherwise.

 

[Angry Grimace]

Spend an hour last night wondering why my PC wouldn't boot up reliably....was fearing a dead motherboard; only to find that a loose 24 pin cable that would come in and out with the slightest bump. :lol Went ahead and used a much firmer touch and reinserted all my other cables just to make sure.

 

[Cheeto]

I can put together a Top ~20 of current generation Duos and Quads off the top of my head.

X9100 - 3.06Ghz - 6MB L2 cache - 1066Mhz FSB - 45w
T9800 - 2.93Ghz
QX9300 - 2.53Ghz - 12 MB L2 cache - 1066Mhz FSB - 45w
T9600 - 2.80Ghz
P9600 - 2.66Ghz
T9550 - 2.66Ghz
Q9100 - 2.26Ghz - 12MB L2 cache - 45w
P9500 - 2.53Ghz
T9400 - 2.53Ghz
P8700 - 2.53Ghz - 3MB L2 cache
Q9000 - 2.0Ghz - 6MB L2 cache
P8600 - 2.4Ghz - 3MB
P8400 - 2.26Ghz - 3MB
P7450 - 2.1Ghz - 3MB
P7350 - 2.0Ghz - 3MB

Q = Quad
X = Extreme, overclockable if allowed by BIOS
T = 35 watt, P= 25

This list's order is only endorsed by me. All are 1066Mhz FSB, all Duos are 6MB, unless stated otherwise.

This is perfect, thanks.

 

[FoxSpirit]

...
X = Extreme, overclockable if allowed by BIOS
...

I don't understand this. Normally you can overclock any CPU by simply raising the FSB, not anymore?

 

[Angry Grimace]

I don't understand this. Normally you can overclock any CPU by simply raising the FSB, not anymore?

Not every motherboard allows it, and few mobile motherboards do, which is what he's referring to.

 

[K.Jack]

Notebook manufacturers and distributors will sometimes lock the BIOS from the fear of heating or power consumption issues.

Example: Armina sells the WD840, which is (err.. make that was as of like yesterday) resold as the OCZ Whitebook and the Alienware M17. This chassis is compatible with the QX9300 and X9100, and if you bought the Whitebook, you could go in the BIOS to overclock it to uh... 3 point something. On the otherhand, Alienware locked this functionality in it's personal BIOS, yet simply reflashing the OCZ .28 BIOS on the M17 will unlock this functionality for you.

 

[matttco]

OK super newbie PC builder. I built one like years ago, and I need major help. I have the monitor, keyboard. Need Pc and good gaming mouse... I can wait on the mouse though I have a old laser one. Have 600 bucks to spend and I want to be able to play L4D and Crisis . Need like the full list like every part, linked to where I can buy it online so like

Pc case here
CPU Here
Graphics card Here
Ram here

like the whole thing and it all works together...I know that's asking allot but I find this thread confusing. Sorry all and thanks in advance if anyone decides to help me out.

 

[godhandiscen]

OK super newbie PC builder. I built one like years ago, and I need major help. I have the monitor, keyboard. Need Pc and good gaming mouse... I can wait on the mouse though I have a old laser one. Have 600 bucks to spend and I want to be able to play L4D and Crisis . Need like the full list like every part, linked to where I can buy it online so like

Pc case here
CPU Here
Graphics card Here
Ram here

like the whole thing and it all works together...I know that's asking allot but I find this thread confusing. Sorry all and thanks in advance if anyone decides to help me out.

What is your budget? Also, if you are not experienced, I don't know if we should recommend overclocking.

 

[VictimOfGrief]

HOLY F'NING CRAP!
I'm buying it now!

Link: http://store.steampowered.com/app/500/

 

[Slavik81]

OK super newbie PC builder. I built one like years ago, and I need major help. I have the monitor, keyboard. Need Pc and good gaming mouse... I can wait on the mouse though I have a old laser one. Have 600 bucks to spend and I want to be able to play L4D and Crisis . Need like the full list like every part, linked to where I can buy it online so like

Pc case here
CPU Here
Graphics card Here
Ram here

like the whole thing and it all works together...I know that's asking allot but I find this thread confusing. Sorry all and thanks in advance if anyone decides to help me out.

Case: RAIDMAX SMILODON ATX-612WBP Black $99.99 (69.99 after mail-in rebate)
MOBO: GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3R $119.99 (104.99 after mail-in rebate)
CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo E7400 $119.99
GPU: SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 4850 512MB $144.99
RAM: G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) $44.99
DVD: LG Black 22X $24.99
HDD: Western Digital 640GB 32MB Cache $79.99
Mouse: Logitech G5 $49.99
OS: Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium - $99.99
---------------------------------------
Total: $785 (740 after mail-in rebates)
+ Shipping & Tax.


Well, I tried. I'm rather new at this, though. I'm sure someone can find cheaper.

 

[M.Bluth]

I finished putting my new PC together last night, and spent the whole day installing my games that ran like crap on my old rig and laugh playing them at max with insane frame rates :lol

I went with the 4870 1GB instead of the 4850, got a pretty sweet deal for it so I couldn't pass.

Now, it's been a while since I gave a damn about the correct settings of the BIOS and other tweaks and stuff, so I have no idea what stuff should I turn on or turn off.. So anything about this would be a great help (MB is Asus P6T Deluxe)

Also, what temps should I be getting? I'm using the stock cooler for now and RealTemp is telling me my CPU temp is 48°C, is that good for the i7 (920) or is it high?
And 4870's temp according to the CCC is 44°C and after I quit a game they are about 54°C (didn't use a temp monitor yet)

 

[lachesis]

Kinda stupid question... but here it goes anyhow.

So, I'm running 3 XP 32bits at home....

1. Workstation: Corporate license that I got from work. XP Pro.
2. Vaio Laptop: About 3-4 years old. My wife uses it for internet mostly. OEM, with no supplied windows CD, but I have burnt recovery discs. (9 cds!!!) - XP Pro
3. Sub computer in the living room: I've took some parts out from my old Dell, and built a new one, and installed Dell's OEM XP Home. Originally it came with XP Home installed, but also came with OEM XP disc. I was wondering weather the license would work in my custom built computer - but registration/authorization went fine. - XP Home

Honestly, I'm rather sick of XP now. I mean I've been looking at the same intefrace for nearly 6-7 years. Yes, it's still fine for what it is, but I'm dying to try out Windows 7 when it would get released - and finally release the power of 64bit operating system.

My question is...

I'll have to keep running 32bit XP for #1 for a while - due to work related, compatiblity issue. When Windows7 gets released, I'm thinking about dual OS it.

for #2, I'm not even sure what to do when I think about upgrading. It says vista compatible, and it's got about 2gb of ram in it - so I don't see why it wouldn't run Windows 7... but basically I'd be throwing away XP Pro license.

for #3, it's whatever machine, that I use mostly using for home entertainment, and it's connected to 60 inch TV. I'm not even sure weather it's worth keeping XP Home OEM License and the disk... but I'm not too savvy on keeping running dual OS, because this is more or less a entertaint machine. I wan't direct X 10+ and I want more new savvy stuff that's not available on XP 32 bit....

Assuming I'll be keeping my corp license for 32bit XP for #1, what shall I do with #2 and #3? I could imagine selling off #2 at cheap price on ebay... but for #3... can I even sell OEM Window and transfer to other person on ebay/craigs list?

 

[Tideas]

HOLY F'NING CRAP!
I'm buying it now!

Link: http://store.steampowered.com/app/500/

what does this have to do with building a PC?

 

[dionysus]

So, my first foray into truly hardcore PC gaming seems to be a success. Got my new cpu cooler in today and it looks like I have successfully overclocked my q6600 to 3.24Ghz. About an hour into the stress test and the temperatures are only 56C.

 

[Raw64life]

This is a combination tech help/parts suggestion post.

So I was using my computer today and it suddenly died and would not turn back on. Nothing happens at all when I try to turn it back on. No lights, no fans, nothing. This is hot on the heels of my only PS3 controller freezing BTW. For reference, here is the computer I built about 16 months ago...

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=5181614

...I added another 4GB of RAM to my computer about 3 weeks ago, so I assumed my power supply might be the culprit, but I'm not sure. I tried every combination of plugging and unplugging imaginable with no results. I also opened up my computer and dusted it (I last dusted it about a month ago). Googleing around for people with similar problems, it seems that the power supply is in fact the most likely suspect. Any opinions on what could be wrong are appreciated. I don't want to go out and get another power supply if the processor or motherboard is the actual problem.

Anyway, assuming it is my power supply, I guess I need to get a new one. I was thinking about this one, since my last one was also Cosair and worked flawlessly up until this happened. I'm just concerned that it might not be compatible with the rest of my computer (for instance, I have no clue what the difference between a VX and TX power supply is).

 

[M.Bluth]

I finished putting my new PC together last night, and spent the whole day installing my games that ran like crap on my old rig and laugh playing them at max with insane frame rates :lol

I went with the 4870 1GB instead of the 4850, got a pretty sweet deal for it so I couldn't pass.

Now, it's been a while since I gave a damn about the correct settings of the BIOS and other tweaks and stuff, so I have no idea what stuff should I turn on or turn off.. So anything about this would be a great help (MB is Asus P6T Deluxe)

Also, what temps should I be getting? I'm using the stock cooler for now and RealTemp is telling me my CPU temp is 48°C, is that good for the i7 (920) or is it high?
And 4870's temp according to the CCC is 44°C and after I quit a game they are about 54°C (didn't use a temp monitor yet)

Anyone?

 

[dionysus]

I think anything under 70C is just peachy.

 

[Hazaro]

Anyway, assuming it is my power supply, I guess I need to get a new one. I was thinking about this one, since my last one was also Cosair and worked flawlessly up until this happened. I'm just concerned that it might not be compatible with the rest of my computer (for instance, I have no clue what the difference between a VX and TX power supply is).

Just call newegg and see if you can do an RMA with them, if not do an RMA with Corsair. Both are fast.

It does sound like a PSU issue, but obviously tripple check all your connections.

Anyone?

Temps are fine.

 

[godhandiscen]

I finished putting my new PC together last night, and spent the whole day installing my games that ran like crap on my old rig and laugh playing them at max with insane frame rates :lol

I went with the 4870 1GB instead of the 4850, got a pretty sweet deal for it so I couldn't pass.

Now, it's been a while since I gave a damn about the correct settings of the BIOS and other tweaks and stuff, so I have no idea what stuff should I turn on or turn off.. So anything about this would be a great help (MB is Asus P6T Deluxe)

Also, what temps should I be getting? I'm using the stock cooler for now and RealTemp is telling me my CPU temp is 48°C, is that good for the i7 (920) or is it high?
And 4870's temp according to the CCC is 44°C and after I quit a game they are about 54°C (didn't use a temp monitor yet)

The temp for your 920 is fine. I get the same idle temps as you for my 940. I have seen lower temps with the stock cooler, but those require a better case ventilation too. Your temps for the 4870 are very good if you have the fan at stocks settings. Now, I don't know what you mean about bios settings. Are you trying to overclock?

 

[Raw64life]

Just call newegg and see if you can do an RMA with them, if not do an RMA with Corsair. Both are fast.

It does sound like a PSU issue, but obviously tripple check all your connections.

Temps are fine.

What exactly does an RMA do. A look on Newegg makes it seems like it's a way to return stuff. What's the point of getting a new one if it is just going to blow out again, assuming it's the problem?

 

[Hazaro]

What exactly does an RMA do. A look on Newegg makes it seems like it's a way to return stuff. What's the point of getting a new one if it is just going to blow out again, assuming it's the problem?

Because their PSU's are great?
RMA is a return.

 

[M.Bluth]

No, I won't overclock using a stock cooler...
What I'm asking is if there are any options I should activate or deactivate in the BIOS, or any recommended tools I should use (HW status monitoring or fan control etc..)

 

[Raw64life]

Because their PSU's are great?
RMA is a return.

So they'll let me return my busted, 16-month-old PSU for full price no questions asked?

 

[VictimOfGrief]

what does this have to do with building a PC?

It plays on a built PC?

 

[Crazymoogle]

So they'll let me return my busted, 16-month-old PSU for full price no questions asked?

RMA = Return Merchandise Authorization

When you RMA something, the place you send it to either repairs, replaces, or refunds what you have, based on the warranty and what they decide is the problem. If you're out of warranty, they'll quote you the repair/replacement cost.

There are definitely 'questions asked', but they do so by themselves at the repair facility, not with you on the phone.

Anyway, provided you have a Corsair warranty, that's 5yrs coverage, so they'll likely hold onto it for a bit and then send a fix or replacement out. Newegg RMA policy is 30 days from purchase for money back, 1 year for replacement.

 

[Raw64life]

So I went to Corsair.com and they say I can test my power supply to see if it works with a paper clip. I did those instructions, and apparently my power supply is indeed busted. The eventual snowball effect of having to open my computer and mess around with it has led to me not only only needing a new power supply, but also me wanting to get a new video card. I was looking at this, but I was wondering if it would do any damage to my current motherboard. Also, if I were to get a new motherboard, would my current RAM be compatible with it?

Edit: Thanks for the info moogle. I'm pretty sure I can't get a refund at this point unless every Corsair PSU comes with the warranty because I'm pretty sure I didn't ask for one. Even if I can get it replaced, I'm pretty sure it would just blow out again, so I think a new one is the way to go for me.

 

[Crazymoogle]

So I went to Corsair.com and they say I can test my power supply to see if it works with a paper clip. I did those instructions, and apparently my power supply is indeed busted. The eventual snowball effect of having to open my computer and mess around with it has led to me not only only needing a new power supply, but also me wanting to get a new video card. I was looking at this, but I was wondering if it would do any damage to my current motherboard. Also, if I were to get a new motherboard, would my current RAM be compatible with it?

Looks like you have a PCIEx16, which is what that GTX260 needs (The Core 216 is a great idea, btw, and so is EVGA), so shouldn't be a big deal. However, you need to have two six-pin power cables (and usually if the GTX comes with an adapter, it's 2 IDE 4 pins = 1 PCIE 6 pin). If it looks like you can fit a dual slot card you should be fine (weird place for a southbridge, but as long as the heatsink isn't too tall...or...wait, I don't know which way your card would be sitting.)

I'm not sure why you want would a new LGA775 board (?), but it looks like your memory would carry over. DDR2 is DDR2. Maybe somebody else here can speak to speed, but I understood that DDR2800 is the fastest JEDEC happy spec anyway, right? In any case if you keep the same CPU then your memory should still be capable.

Edit: Thanks for the info moogle. I'm pretty sure I can't get a refund at this point unless every Corsair PSU comes with the warranty because I'm pretty sure I didn't ask for one. Even if I can get it replaced, I'm pretty sure it would just blow out again, so I think a new one is the way to go for me.

Every Corsair PSU has a warranty, it's not some add-on you ask for. If your PSU is still listed on newegg you can see the warranty it uses, but I'm guessing its 5yrs, which seems fairly standard for their PSUs. A replacement shouldn't blow out unless you are using more than the PSU can handle, in which case you may want the free replacement anyway but you'd still need to get a new one. (You could ask Corsair about paying extra to move up but generally RMA departments can't do that.)

 

[Raw64life]

All the 1366 motherboards have DDR3 as their memory standard and I have no clue if DDR2 memory is compatible with it. The 775 is also significantly cheaper, but I might spring for the 1335 is DDR2 is compatible with it, just to be future proof. I'm not all that tech savvy, so some of the stuff you mentioned is going over my head.

I guess I can always sell the 550W if I can get a replacement, but right now I just want my computer up and running again as soon as possible.

 

[Crazymoogle]

All the 1366 motherboards have DDR3 as their memory standard and I have no clue if DDR2 memory is compatible with it. The 775 is also significantly cheaper, but I might spring for the 1335 is DDR2 is compatible with it, just to be future proof. I'm not all that tech savvy, so some of the stuff you mentioned is going over my head.

I guess I can always sell the 550W if I can get a replacement, but right now I just want my computer up and running again as soon as possible.

1366 is a different socket, yeah, and they only support DDR3; DDR2 doesn't work (The Intel Corei7 memory controller is in the CPU, and only supports DDR3). I believe the AM3 boards for Phenom 2 can support DDR2 or DDR3, but you'd have to carefully look at the motherboards because I believe they need different memory slots.

775 is cheaper, clearly, tops out at whatever the end of the Core 2 line is, and though I imagine there may be a few DDR3 boards, it's a lot cheaper to stick with DDR2 anyway. I seriously doubt Intel is going to support DDR2 going forward, but that's a hunch on my part.

Um...technical stuff. Bare with me if I cover something you already know.

PCI-Express (PCIE) is the video card slot on your motherboard. It's called "X16" because it has 16 data lanes, but all you really need to know is that it's the special "fast slot" for video. It should be compatible with the GTX260 video card you linked to. (Technical note: Your motherboard is PCIE1.1. The 260 is PCIE2.0. Apparently this does not matter.)

Pins: The GTX260 can't get enough electricity from the PCI-Express slot. So to run at full speed, you plug in two cables from your power supply directly into the card. The 260 needs "6 pin" plugs, which essentially look like tiny lego - if you see a spare cable coming out of your power supply with a 2x3 arrangement of holes on the plug, that's it. (One of the pics on the Newegg site shows the edge of the videocard with what looks like two 2x3 black blocks on it, that's where you plug it in.)

In the case that you wouldn't have those plugs, the EVGA card comes with a couple of adapters. Each adapter turns 2 IDE power plugs (you know, the power plug that would go into hard drives or DVD drives alongside the grey flat cable?) into one 6pin plug.

So if you had no 6pins at all, you could still use the videocard if you had 4 spare IDE plugs.

If you have neither, buying a new PSU would appear to still be in your future.