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Retro AV Club Thread 2: Classic Gaming Done Right!

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bodine1231

bodine1231

Member
I'm having trouble getting my PC Engine to work on both my XRGB and PVM.

Firstly,I purchased this item off of eBay for the (white japanese PC Engine).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/152319901979?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

The listing stated that it would work with Genesis 2 RGB so I purchased this (I needed a cable for my Genesis 2 anyways)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201309414919?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

On the XRGB it gives me a blue screen or a no signal
On the PVM I get this

FDA01554-8290-435F-BBAC-C896E5F08AE7_zpsec9i2xql.jpg


Ok, I figure I have the wrong Genesis 2 cables for this PC Engine (they work fine on the Genesis 2). So I try component,same thing on the XRGB (blue screen/no signal) and same on PVM (as pictured).
Now I figure maybe its the AV board I ordered,I hooked up a composite video cable and I get a picture on both the PVM on XRGB (shown below), so the board works.

31C9A9E4-7BD2-4569-847E-1C9BC463C6DC_zpst3i8gopc.jpg



I'm assuming I have the wrong Genesis 2 cable for this AV Board,can someone link me to the right one?
 
F

Fularu

Banned
Stupid question

Are you sure the board is properly fitted? did you clean up the expansion port connectors?

They can be finnicky
 
S

Shin Johnpv

Member
One of the guys MLiG had on while streaming recently had ordered that same board. He had similar issues, where the only output that actually worked was the composite one. It's basically a chinese knock off of the DbElectronics board. I don't think you're going to ever get component working on that board. There's no encoder chips, or anything to convert the signal to component. I would return it if I were you.

Look at the differences on the boards

s-l1600.jpg


and this is the DbElectronics one

ttp-angled.jpg
 
D.Lo

D.Lo

Member
Seems pretty clear to me it's your cable. It's outputting a clear RGB signal, and a clear composite signal, so the RGB sync is the only issue.

You got a csync cable, I'm guessing the adapter needs composite video as sync.
 
K

Krelian

Member
Not sure if it's been mentioned before but I just received a newsletter announcing that there's a new OSSC batch of 500 units coming in February 2017 with a few units available earlier.

So anyone still looking for one can hopefully grab a unit soon. I'm very happy with mine :)
 
D

dubc35

Member
Krelian said:
Not sure if it's been mentioned before but I just received a newsletter announcing that there's a new OSSC batch of 500 units coming in February 2017 with a few units available earlier.

So anyone still looking for one can hopefully grab a unit soon. I'm very happy with mine :)
Click to expand...

Yep, just saw that. I should be in this next batch!
 
M

Mega

Banned
Fularu said:
Does the MIST suport SCD games? Or just the Hucard portion?

Also since it now has up to AGA support (albeit only for a 68020 and no FPU/MMU) it should have no issues with Megadrive/MegaCD and even SNES.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure it's limited to hucard games, but I'll test it tonight to confirm.

Genesis (and SNES) seem like they should be doable but a completed core with sound isn't available yet. I was mistaken earlier and thought there was a Genesis core available now.

bodine1231 said:
I'm having trouble getting my PC Engine to work on both my XRGB and PVM.

I'm assuming I have the wrong Genesis 2 cable for this AV Board,can someone link me to the right one?
Click to expand...

D.Lo's suggestion sounds right. I dunno about the original PC Engine and that board you have, but my Duo-R outputs RGB with Composite Video Sync.
 
E

Einhandr

Member
Any recommendations on an HDMI switch with remote that doesn't alter the signal in anyway (color space, etc.)? I'm not looking for any fancy features or anything. Four or five inputs is probably all I'll need.
 
P

PumpkinSpice

Banned
dubc35 said:
Cool, I need to check it out for GBA games. Although I will surely be disappointed since I play all my GBA stuff on a DS lite.
Click to expand...

Aside from buttons being in the wrong place, the lack of a link cable port, and the screen being just as ghosty as the AGS-101, the DS-Lite is actually a pretty good way to play GBA games.
 
bodine1231

bodine1231

Member
D.Lo said:
Seems pretty clear to me it's your cable. It's outputting a clear RGB signal, and a clear composite signal, so the RGB sync is the only issue.

You got a csync cable, I'm guessing the adapter needs composite video as sync.
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking too. I contacted the guy and am waiting to hear back. I went with this one because the dbelectronics one is always sold out and I plan on getting an RGB duo next year.
 
D

dubc35

Member
SheepyGuy said:
Aside from buttons being in the wrong place, the lack of a link cable port, and the screen being just as ghosty as the AGS-101, the DS-Lite is actually a pretty good way to play GBA games.
Click to expand...
Nice, good to know. I spent a lot of time with my launch PSP so...yeah...any ghosting is probably better than that lol. I haven't noticed it too much so far.
 
M

Mega

Banned
Fuzzy said:
MLiG put up RGB208 :: Getting the Best Picture from your Game Boy / GBC / GBA Games. It's an hour long. I'm starting it now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjtD1mOZlPc
Click to expand...

Nice for the commute home this evening.

edit: is there a reason why save video options are limited to 360p. MLiG restriction? Come on guys.

SheepyGuy said:
Aside from buttons being in the wrong place, the lack of a link cable port, and the screen being just as ghosty as the AGS-101, the DS-Lite is actually a pretty good way to play GBA games.
Click to expand...

That's how I played 99% of GBA games in the '00s. Never owned a lit Gameboy until recently with the modded variations.
 
P

PumpkinSpice

Banned
dubc35 said:
Nice, good to know. I spent a lot of time with my launch PSP so...yeah...any ghosting is probably better than that lol. I haven't noticed it too much so far.
Click to expand...

It's still way better than any PSP ghosting.

I'm like 99% confident the LCD in the DS lite is exactly the same as the AGS-101 screen, except for the size/resolution being different.
 
P

Peltz

Member
SheepyGuy said:
It's still way better than any PSP ghosting.

I'm like 99% confident the LCD in the DS lite is exactly the same as the AGS-101 screen, except for the size/resolution being different.
Click to expand...

It's definitely not. AGS-101 has more ghosting than the DS-Lite.
 
B

BTails

Member
Well, I know what I'm watching over the next 3 or so nights in bed! Love the MLiG guys, always really well done videos.
 
bodine1231

bodine1231

Member
I talked to the guy who made that board and it is RGB composite sync. I got it to work on my PVM by using the green wire on a component cable as the sync,looks pretty good. The bad thing is that I can't use this on my XRGB without buying a new composite sync cable for the Genesis 2.



 
D.Lo

D.Lo

Member
Peltz said:
It's definitely not. AGS-101 has more ghosting than the DS-Lite.
Click to expand...
I have had three AGS-101s recently (doing some projects with them for Christmas presents for friends) and they varied slightly in brightness and ghosting. A new backlit screen from aliexpress seemed to match the best of them too.
 
P

Peltz

Member
D.Lo said:
I have had three AGS-101s recently (doing some projects with them for Christmas presents for friends) and they varied slightly in brightness and ghosting. A new backlit screen from aliexpress seemed to match the best of them too.
Click to expand...

I would not be surprised if not all AGS-101s were made equal. That would be par for the course with Nintendo handhelds.
 
D.Lo

D.Lo

Member
Shaneus said:
So I've just found that pretty much any TV can be configured to have RGB inputs. This could be dangerous, thankfully I have an old Pana 30cm telly I can fool around with. Saves having to buy/butcher a bigger TV.

Should make for fantastic retrogaming once the tinkering is done.
Click to expand...
I thought about doing this a few years ago since I had a beautiful neo-futuristic white plastic TV from the 80s.

The reason it wasn't worth it in the end was any screen old enough or low quality enough to only have RF/composite usually has a crap tube anyway, or is so old the tube is worn out or just older tech so doesn't have as good a picture. Makes some sense if you have a great display however.
 
L

Laevateinn

Member
Shaneus said:
So I've just found that pretty much any TV can be configured to have RGB inputs. This could be dangerous, thankfully I have an old Pana 30cm telly I can fool around with. Saves having to buy/butcher a bigger TV.

Should make for fantastic retrogaming once the tinkering is done.
Click to expand...

The danger is a bit overrated but all you need to do before working inside a monitor is attach a cable that has an alligator clip at the end to a long philips head screwdriver. Put one end of the alligator clip on a ground (like the metal housing of the screen) and put the end of the screwdriver under the suction cup until you hear a pop or feel it has been properly discharged.

Something like this.

LAU5MHb.jpg
Click to expand...

I've done a few times while trying to fix my arcade monitor. It's actually pretty fun and I'd recommend everyone to do that and use a hand-degausser at least once.

This is really cool actually and I think I'll do it sometime with a high-quality large screen CRT.
 
S

Shaneus

Member
Laevateinn said:
The danger is a bit overrated but all you need to do before working inside a monitor is attach a cable that has an alligator clip at the end to a long philips head screwdriver. Put one end of the alligator clip on a ground (like the metal housing of the screen) and put the end of the screwdriver under the suction cup until you hear a pop or feel it has been properly discharged.

Something like this.



I've done a few times while trying to fix my arcade monitor. It's actually pretty fun and I'd recommend everyone to do that and use a hand-degausser at least once.

This is really cool actually and I think I'll do it sometime with a high-quality large screen CRT.
Click to expand...
That's awesome, cheers for the tip! But I wasn't referring to physical danger in my post, more that this could open up a can of worms in me trying to find a bigger TV to tinker with ;)

Edit: Is the danger still there even when the monitor is completely disconnected from the power? I'm never sure if the shock danger is from actual power or just the capacitors used.
 
P

PumpkinSpice

Banned
Shaneus said:
So I've just found that pretty much any TV can be configured to have RGB inputs. This could be dangerous, thankfully I have an old Pana 30cm telly I can fool around with. Saves having to buy/butcher a bigger TV.

Should make for fantastic retrogaming once the tinkering is done.
Click to expand...

Yeah I think this is actually pretty easy. Most of the old jungle chips have RGB and even YPbPr inputs even if the external jacks aren't on your TV. You can just open, look up the part number, find the right pins, and add your own jacks. You might also need a resistor on each line.

The link you have is wrong btw, those chips don't do digital rgb they are usually pure analog and there's no need to jack directly into the tube RGB lines.
 
R

RadarScope1

Member
Shaneus said:
That's awesome, cheers for the tip! But I wasn't referring to physical danger in my post, more that this could open up a can of worms in me trying to find a bigger TV to tinker with ;)

Edit: Is the danger still there even when the monitor is completely disconnected from the power? I'm never sure if the shock danger is from actual power or just the capacitors used.
Click to expand...

Yes.
 
S

Shaneus

Member
SheepyGuy said:
Yeah I think this is actually pretty easy. Most of the old jungle chips have RGB and even YPbPr inputs even if the external jacks aren't on your TV. You can just open, look up the part number, find the right pins, and add your own jacks. You might also need a resistor on each line.

The link you have is wrong btw, those chips don't do digital rgb they are usually pure analog and there's no need to jack directly into the tube RGB lines.
Click to expand...
Okay, awesome. I wasn't following that link to the letter, it was just one of a few I found.
 
L

Laevateinn

Member
Shaneus said:
That's awesome, cheers for the tip! But I wasn't referring to physical danger in my post, more that this could open up a can of worms in me trying to find a bigger TV to tinker with ;)

Edit: Is the danger still there even when the monitor is completely disconnected from the power? I'm never sure if the shock danger is from actual power or just the capacitors used.
Click to expand...

A CRT is basically a giant capacitor. A lot of charge can be stored on it.
 
P

Peltz

Member
You all are so handy. I consider myself resourceful when I change a lightbulb successfully.

You should've seen how proud I was when I figured out how to hook up BNC-RCA adapters to my PVM lol. I'll definitely never have the balls to mod a CRT for as long as I live.
 
bodine1231

bodine1231

Member
Can anyone tell me why I get these evenly spaced dark sections on solid backgrounds when I enable scanlines on the AVS? If I completely remove them I get a solid even color,when I crank them up they appear and its really distracting.

UT8FYDNb.jpg


UT8FYDNl.jpg
 
B

Beer Monkey

Member
bodine1231 said:
Can anyone tell me why I get these evenly spaced dark sections on solid backgrounds when I enable scanlines on the AVS? If I completely remove them I get a solid even color,when I crank them up they appear and its really distracting.

UT8FYDNb.jpg


UT8FYDNl.jpg
Click to expand...

What console and what display are you using?
 
P

PumpkinSpice

Banned
I thought I'd bring this over from the other thread since it's kinda died off and RegularGAF can be pretty mind numbing sometimes.

I was looking into why later PS2 slim revisions have issues with some PS1 games and even PS2 games as noted in this Wikipedia link.

SheepyGuy said:
The last revision of the PS2 slim dropped the PS1 chips from the board and emulated them instead. Earlier models have much better compatibility.
Click to expand...

SheepyGuy said:
I tried but failed to find a good source but what I read was that the later models increased the clock of the main CPU and emulated the PS1 chip on that. In some cases a few PS2 games run weirdly too, mostly audio issues.



I'm not actually sure which model. Wikipedia seems to indicate it's SCPH-75001 onward.
Click to expand...

What I had read before was that the PS2 CPU ("Emotion Engine") is clocked a bit higher and the functions of PS2 sound and PS1-CPU-backwards-compatibility that were done with the R3000A processor were emulated on the CPU. This seemed reasonable but more research indicates that instead:

  • The R3000A MIPS processor in the PS2 was used for IO (like USB), sound, as well as fully functional PS1 back-compat
  • PS1 GPU was always emulated by the PS2 EE/GS, which generally did a very good job with some minor issues
  • Early slim models continue to have the R3000A CPU
  • Revisions from the SCPH-75000 onward have that chip replaced with a PowerPC CPU called "Deckard", likely due to supply changes or cost cutting
  • This was fine for IO but for PS2 sound and PS1 back-compat needs MIPS instruction set
  • So, the "Deckard" CPU emulates the R3000A with some inaccuracy, which causes compatibility issues noted above.

Mystery solved. If you want to have the best PS1 experience, get a PS1. Failing that, get an original/large PS2 or an early slim (pre-SCPH-75000).
 
B

Beer Monkey

Member
bodine1231 said:
The AVS on a KS8000
Click to expand...

I misread your post a bit and that's my fault.

Anyhow, at your current settings the KS8000 is obviously not doing a good job of scaling 720p.

I agree with the suggestion of checking TV settings for overscan. Presumably the algorithm works better at another setting. If it's in a no overscan mode it should theoretically be doing integer scaling and avoid those artifacts. Look for a "1:1" mode, or just try the different modes.
 
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