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[Zyzyxxz]

It's all about pitchers!!!

 

[Rentahamster]

yes same thing here not worried about the movie stuff just want good pitchers, and it seems like the D90 has a better base!

looks like im gana go with the D90 unless anyone has something to add?

thanks again everyone for you help.

lol ended up skipping work to do the research after all!

The D90 is a solid camera. Lots of features but not too complicated. Fairly useful if your sister wants to venture outside of auto modes.

Get one of these lenses to start.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001S2PPT0/?tag=neogaf0e-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005LEN4/?tag=neogaf0e-20

 

[Chorazin]

I absolutely love my D90, so many features you can access quickly and easily. Takes amazing pics and you're not breaking the bank!

 

[SaitoH]

So I'm looking to replace the stock lens on my Rebel XSI and was thinking of getting the Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Zoom Lens. I like the fact that it's not too expensive and offers a lot of flexibility.

Is this a good choice, or should I be aiming my sights at something else?

PS. I own: Canon EF 50mm f1.8 and Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS Lens

 

[JLateralus]

I've seen a couple of people recommending Crumpler bags in this thread, so I thought I'd post this for anyone in the US looking for one:

$15 - Crumpler 1 Million Dollar Home

$25 - Crumpler 2 Million Dollar Home

I've never ordered from this place before, but I was thinking about picking up the 2 Million Dollar bag. Any thoughts on this one?

 

[Stuck]

So I have a short backpacking trip through Romania coming up later in May, and it will be my first time traveling abroad with a DSLR.

Does anyone recommend getting some sort of insurance to cover the camera? I have a D90 plus the 35mm 1.8 and the 70-300mm VR, so it isn't crazy valuable professional level stuff, but I would hate to have something happen to it. I'm mainly worried about it getting stolen or accidentally breaking something. Any reasonably cheap policies out there that would cover this sort of thing for about a month of traveling time, or would it be better to just travel smart and be careful?

Also, I'm going to be carrying the rest of my belongings in a 65L pack on my back. Anyone have any tips on the best way to carry the camera around? I'm thinking about either throwing a small holster style case in the big pack or carrying a second daypack (I have a Lowepro Slingshot 100). Any advice on being relatively inconspicuous while shooting with and lugging around a big 'ole camera?

 

[VNZ]

So I'm looking to replace the stock lens on my Rebel XSI and was thinking of getting the Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Zoom Lens. I like the fact that it's not too expensive and offers a lot of flexibility.

Is this a good choice, or should I be aiming my sights at something else?

PS. I own: Canon EF 50mm f1.8 and Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS Lens

If flexible focal range with one lens at a fair price is what you're after it should be a good choice. It's a level above the kit lenses in terms of build quality. The main caveat is obviously low light performance, a fact that is made worse by its reputation of being a very soft lens at maximum aperture.

Personally I find that kind of lens quite depressing, though, and would look into wider angle primes instead. But that depends on the type of photography you are into, I guess.

 

[Zyzyxxz]

so if we said the nikon d90 compared to the canon 550? what would you chose?
iv been reading a lot of reviews and they all say that the 550 is good but a bit lacking in the pitcher side of stuff???? and is good because of the hd move stuff! but they dont say to what there comparing the pitchers to! (lets say d90, what do you think?)

and thanks for your help guys.

also here are some samples I took today with my D90 + 50mm F1.8

This one was taken at 1600 ISO, so you can see it has pretty good performance and the noise isn't too noticeable unless you want to nitpick.

 

[BlueTsunami]

This was posted a month ago (in the link) and I'm not sure if it was posted here but...

The FOX Series “House” Shooting With Canon 5D Mark II’s

Apparently the whole episode will be shot with 5DMKII's

 

[megashock5]

So, my wife has a D50 and (in addition to the lens it came with) has a zoom and a wide-angle lens.

Now she's looking for a good lens for taking indoor action shots, specifically at our son's hockey games.

Anyone have any suggestions for such a thing?

 

[345triangle]

what are people's thoughts on micro four thirds right now? i don't know much about cameras except that i want a nice step-up from my lumix point-and-shoot, and i'm pretty sure the olympus PEN E-PL1 is the thing for me - size is important, and as far as i can tell this thing isn't much different from DSLRs in many ways except that i'd know how to use it straight off the bat.

 

[reggieandTFE]

what are people's thoughts on micro four thirds right now? i don't know much about cameras except that i want a nice step-up from my lumix point-and-shoot, and i'm pretty sure the olympus PEN E-PL1 is the thing for me - size is important, and as far as i can tell this thing isn't much different from DSLRs in many ways except that i'd know how to use it straight off the bat.

This is what I bought when stepping up from point and shoots. I love the camera so far, but I'd also suggest looking at the Panasonic GF1 with the 20mm/1.7 pancake lens. It's a bit more expensive, but I bought the e-pl1 and then the $400 standalone pancake a couple weeks later anyways.

 

[Ptaaty]

I was having the same debate but I decided to swing with the D90.

Even though its old, it still takes very amazing shots but the amount of manual controls really makes it worth it for me too.

Sure the 550D can do movies well but I've never felt the need to take a movie yet so that isn't an important factor for me anymore.

I have done absurd amounts of research...for me it boiled down like this:

1. Pentax k-x. Smaller and lighter, yet most comfortable grip. Has AF motor in body, and IS in body. Fits every pentax lens ever (hello pawn shop/ebay). Basically same sensor as D90, D5000. Best features for $$. Slightly better kit lenses than most. A STEAL at $700 for a 18-55mm and 55-300mm kit.

2. D90. Love the camera body. Great screen, prism viewfinder. AF in body for older lens...no IS in body. A step above the others I am listing in quality...and $$$...but still not weather sealed. Best access to controls quickly. Also pretty bulky and heavy compared to the others.

3. D5000. As close to the pentax k-x as you can get in a Nikon. Nikon has better new lens selection than Pentax, but used is hampered by lack of AF drive motor in body. Again no IS in body. Articulating screen good for macro. Costco has a great two lens and bag kit.

4. Canon Ti series. I would go this way for video. Also great screen, great software for computer tether. I did not like the feel of the Canons...so they went off the list quickly.

I went to the K-x because of value, maximum older lens compatibility, and compact size. The k-x, D0-, D5000 are the only three DSLRs in the top 20 DXO with compact sensors...the rest were half and full frame ($$+BIG).

D90 has the best camera body of those I listed, easily. And the best single kit lens. It is a bit big and heavy for packing compared to the others. D5000 at Costco is a great deal right now. Although I like the K-x over it...it was still very tempting because of the fact it is a Canikon...with the access to the big market, friends lenses, etc.

Hope that helps. I am the last thing from a fanboy....new to this stuff. I realize I didn't give Canon a fair shake, but as noted that was due to the handling.

 

[345triangle]

This is what I bought when stepping up from point and shoots. I love the camera so far, but I'd also suggest looking at the Panasonic GF1 with the 20mm/1.7 pancake lens. It's a bit more expensive, but I bought the e-pl1 and then the $400 standalone pancake a couple weeks later anyways.

yeah i was looking at that in the shop today - it was nice and there were things i preferred about it, like the screen. my reservations, though, are that it's quite a bit heavier and has more bulk to it, plus the cost issue. also, i couldn't find an english option on it, which is kind of trivial but seeing as i'm new to this i don't want there to be much barrier between me and the interface at first.

explain it to me like i'm five years old, please - in what situations would the 20mm pancake lens be a better bet than the standard one (14-42mm i think) packaged with the E-PL1, obviously besides being a nicer size?

 

[captive]

yeah i was looking at that in the shop today - it was nice and there were things i preferred about it, like the screen. my reservations, though, are that it's quite a bit heavier and has more bulk to it, plus the cost issue. also, i couldn't find an english option on it, which is kind of trivial but seeing as i'm new to this i don't want there to be much barrier between me and the interface at first.

explain it to me like i'm five years old, please - in what situations would the 20mm pancake lens be a better bet than the standard one (14-42mm i think) packaged with the E-PL1, obviously besides being a nicer size?

the 20mm pancake has a maximum aperture of 1.7 whereas the 14-42 has a maximum aperture of 3.5 at 14mm and 5.6 at 42mm.
For instance the 20mm pancake is going to be better in clubs, restaurants, or in your house when you want to take pictures because it will let in more light vs the 14-42. You wont have to resort to the in body flash which can sometimes produce a bad picture or sometimes can produce a good one.

The 14-42 is going to be better as a walk around lens outside in daylight as there will be plenty of light to shoot with so you wont have to worry about the max aperture and it is also a zoom which comes in handy in certain situations.

 

[VNZ]

explain it to me like i'm five years old, please - in what situations would the 20mm pancake lens be a better bet than the standard one (14-42mm i think) packaged with the E-PL1, obviously besides being a nicer size?

A prime (ie. a lens with a fixed focal length) gives two main advantages over a zoom; larger aperture and better optical quality. Optically it means stuff like sharper image, less distortion and possibly better contrast and colors. The larger aperture is the more visible difference, though, since it allows you to:

-Capture more light. Very useful for indoors photography without the need of unflattering in-camera flash.

-Isolate the subject with a more shallow depth of field (and a sexier out-of-focus blur).

Some random examples that illustrate these points (from the Lumix 20mm f/1.7-pool on flickr):

 

[ChryZ]

So I finally bought some new glass. Well, not really new ... more like 30 years old:

... FD to m4/3 the adapter:

... and all combined into this handsome combo:

I wasn't quite sure about all this: manual focus, aperture, etc, but I got the lens and adapter for little money off eBay. It was a bit of a low risk experiment, but I'm quite pleased so far. The manual stuff isn't too hard and heavily aided by the cam: like correct exposure/shutter-speed, easy to access zoom in to help with the focus. Holding focus can be tricky because of the really shallow depth of field at 1:1.4 and the focal length without any image stabilizer. Taking photos with that lens is great fun.

I've posted a few photos here:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=20734977&postcount=170

 

[mrkgoo]

I always see loads of FD lenses around. And for really cheap too.

The images have a soft dreamy look about them actually. Not entirely unpleasant!

 

[VNZ]

So I finally bought some new glass. Well, not really new ... more like 30 years old:

Ah, I have that lens too, and a 35-70mm f/2.8. For sure Canon glass today are technically better in every way, but those old lenses can still capture a really nice atmosphere as your photos clearly show... And clearly the industrial design of any photographic gear was superior in those days. They always had a certain dignity about them that todays lenses miss (especially in the sub $1500-range).

I wonder if there's any substance in the rumours of a Canon "EVIL" system with a new (EF-X?) mount. If there is, it would surely have a short enough flange distance to accomodate all kinds of adapters like this... Which reminds me that Canon supposedly will reveal some new gear tomorrow.

 

[captive]

So I finally bought some new glass. Well, not really new ... more like 30 years old:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v215/Brainshrimp/p1000839.jpg[IMG]

... FD to m4/3 the adapter:

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v215/Brainshrimp/p1000874.jpg[IMG]

... and all combined into this handsome combo:

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v215/Brainshrimp/DSCF1244.jpg[IMG]

I wasn't quite sure about all this: manual focus, aperture, etc, but I got the lens and adapter for little money off eBay. It was a bit of a low risk experiment, but I'm quite pleased so far. The manual stuff isn't too hard and heavily aided by the cam: like correct exposure/shutter-speed, easy to access zoom in to help with the focus. Holding focus can be tricky because of the really shallow depth of field at 1:1.4 and the focal length without any image stabilizer. Taking photos with that lens is great fun.

I've posted a few photos here:
[url]http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=20734977&postcount=170[/url][/QUOTE]Very cool.

The GF1 looks so sweet but then I always remember that unfortunately Panasonic went lens based IS instead of in body IS. So when you put a legacy lens on it, you have no IS.

 

[BlueTsunami]

I always see loads of FD lenses around. And for really cheap too.

The images have a soft dreamy look about them actually. Not entirely unpleasant!

All Manual Focus of course but you can get a 50/1.2 FD for cheap (compared to the AF version). There's also a 135L FD and 85/1.2 FD.

 

[345triangle]

the 20mm pancake has a maximum aperture of 1.7 whereas the 14-42 has a maximum aperture of 3.5 at 14mm and 5.6 at 42mm.
For instance the 20mm pancake is going to be better in clubs, restaurants, or in your house when you want to take pictures because it will let in more light vs the 14-42. You wont have to resort to the in body flash which can sometimes produce a bad picture or sometimes can produce a good one.

The 14-42 is going to be better as a walk around lens outside in daylight as there will be plenty of light to shoot with so you wont have to worry about the max aperture and it is also a zoom which comes in handy in certain situations.

A prime (ie. a lens with a fixed focal length) gives two main advantages over a zoom; larger aperture and better optical quality. Optically it means stuff like sharper image, less distortion and possibly better contrast and colors. The larger aperture is the more visible difference, though, since it allows you to:

-Capture more light. Very useful for indoors photography without the need of unflattering in-camera flash.

-Isolate the subject with a more shallow depth of field (and a sexier out-of-focus blur).

great answers guys, thanks. i think what i'll do is get the E-PL1 with the kit lens, then pick up a pancake later when i decide i need it (which sounds like it'll be pretty soon).

 

[mrklaw]

great answers guys, thanks. i think what i'll do is get the E-PL1 with the kit lens, then pick up a pancake later when i decide i need it (which sounds like it'll be pretty soon).

when you do, seriously consider the panasonic pancake. Its a tiny bit longer (20mm vs 17) but its a lot faster (f1.7 vs 2.8)

 

[ChryZ]

Ah, I have that lens too, and a 35-70mm f/2.8. For sure Canon glass today are technically better in every way, but those old lenses can still capture a really nice atmosphere as your photos clearly show... And clearly the industrial design of any photographic gear was superior in those days. They always had a certain dignity about them that todays lenses miss (especially in the sub $1500-range).

You worded my thoughts exactly. Especially the build quality is so freaking solid with it's metal casing. The FD lens and GF1 are a good match in that regard, solid and compact. The lens almost weight as much as the cam's body so there's a nice balance.

Very cool.

The GF1 looks so sweet but then I always remember that unfortunately Panasonic went lens based IS instead of in body IS. So when you put a legacy lens on it, you have no IS.

Having no IS isn't as scary as it sounds. Especially with fast primes it's pretty easy to get the shutter speed up.

 

[artist]

Which is the best value micro-4/3s out now?

 

[Instigator]

Which is the best value micro-4/3s out now?

The E-PL1. Hands down.

E-P1 looked nice, but was flawed, the E-P2 improved upon it, but is pricey. The GF1 is many people's favorite, but it has the same problem as the E-P2 (price).

E-PL1 is the cheapest of the bunch and, in many ways, the best one too. Now that's value.

I'm assuming you are not interested in the G1 and the GH1 cameras (not pocket cameras).

P.S. I for one don't like how Olympus and Panasonic (mostly Panasonic) create an 'open standard', yet release lenses that only work best on a body from the same manufacturer (all that software correction for the lenses).

 

[mrklaw]

Which is the best value micro-4/3s out now?

none of them are perfect. The olympus EP1 didn't have a pop up flash, AF was slow, but the jpeg output was better than the panasonics.

The GF1 had a flash, AF was better, but the jpeg output wasn't great (OK if you shoot raw though)

the EPL-1 has a flash but still has poor AF


I want a GF1 with the olympus JPEG engine, or an olympus with the Panasonic AF engine (preferably this one as I like the design of the olympus)

 

[ChryZ]

Most m4/3 cams are good options with their own strengths and weaknesses. I'd just read a few reviews and buy the one that fits your needs.

The GF1 had a flash, AF was better, but the jpeg output wasn't great (OK if you shoot raw though)

The default settings for jpeg are quite "conservative" and can easily improved with minor tweaks (in camera that is).

Well and you can also shoot in raw and jpeg at the same time. That's really the way to go: jpeg for preview or web use, raw to get the most out of shots one really likes.

 

[Ptaaty]

Having no IS isn't as scary as it sounds. Especially with fast primes it's pretty easy to get the shutter speed up.

True but you can get a slower lens and keep it sharp, or stop it down and improve quality.

There are pros and cons for sure...lens based means nothing on older lenses, any time you use macro tubes, or video. But lens based is more effective (somewhere around a stop).

The thing for me was value...body based means access to IS with older yet high quality lenses and in more situations. If you are buying new stuff, lens based is better performing.

 

[345triangle]

when you do, seriously consider the panasonic pancake. Its a tiny bit longer (20mm vs 17) but its a lot faster (f1.7 vs 2.8)

P.S. I for one don't like how Olympus and Panasonic (mostly Panasonic) create an 'open standard', yet release lenses that only work best on a body from the same manufacturer (all that software correction for the lenses).

maybe i'm reading the second post wrongly, but to the first guy - are there any issues with using olympus/panasonic lenses interchangeably? i was under the impression that there wouldn't be a problem, what with it being a jointly-created standard.

 

[captive]

maybe i'm reading the second post wrongly, but to the first guy - are there any issues with using olympus/panasonic lenses interchangeably? i was under the impression that there wouldn't be a problem, what with it being a jointly-created standard.

i dont think there is too big of an issue, particularly using the Panasonic 20mm f1.7 on Olympus bodies.

I do know Panasonic likes to use software correction on their lenses, which does cause some issues if Olympus hasn't implemented etc. Olympus mainly does their lens corrections in the lenses, which is a better solution imo.

someone correct me if i'm wrong of course.

 

[Forsete]

The Sony mirrorless cameras will be announced on Sunday for those who care. Perhaps two different models, both with APS-C sensors. A 16mm f2.8 is expected, and a 18-55/F3.5-5.6 .

Very little is known right now.

 

[ChryZ]

I do know Panasonic likes to use software correction on their lenses, which does cause some issues if Olympus hasn't implemented etc. Olympus mainly does their lens corrections in the lenses, which is a better solution imo.

someone correct me if i'm wrong of course.

This is an insightful read:

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/OlympusEP1/page22.asp

- correction is done by the cam's software or the raw converter
- the correction meta data comes from the lens firmware
- in-body jpeg and view finder are corrected on the fly
- raw data is uncorrected by itself
- raw converter will use the meta data provided by the lens firmware to correct distortion and chromatic aberration (not with all Olympus lenses, read link above)

There's clearly some technical trickery involved to get m4/3 lenses as small and light as they are.

 

[DCX]

Just got a D90 from my weekend trip in NYC, went to a Knicks game and took a few pics

I need a bag and some info on lenses and accesorries. I'm sort of a newbie and have been reading the manual non stop

DCX

 

[Zyzyxxz]

Did you get it with a 70-300mm lens? Or you must have been sitting pretty close.

 

[DCX]

Did you get it with a 70-300mm lens? Or you must have been sitting pretty close.

18-105 lens..i was sitting in the 333 section.

DCX

 

[zhenming]

they dont let you bring lens over a certain length in...

 

[captive]

they dont let you bring lens over a certain length in...

teleconverters ftw.

Toyota Center, where the rockets play wont let you in with anything longer than 7 inches.
Minute Maid and Reliant (Astors and Texans) both let me in with my 50-200 and my 150mm f2.0 which is pretty big.

 

[AlteredBeast]

teleconverters ftw.

Toyota Center, where the rockets play wont let you in with anything longer than 7 inches.
Minute Maid and Reliant (Astors and Texans) both let me in with my 50-200 and my 150mm f2.0 which is pretty big.

Damn you have some good gear.

I would love to be able to get some of the higher end lenses, especially the 150mm! some day

 

[captive]

Damn you have some good gear.

I would love to be able to get some of the higher end lenses, especially the 150mm! some day

thanks. im definitely the limiting factor with my gear.

get the 12-60 swd when you can, its really fantastic.

 

[invisibleB]

The D90 is a solid camera. Lots of features but not too complicated. Fairly useful if your sister wants to venture outside of auto modes.

Get one of these lenses to start.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001S2PPT0/?tag=neogaf0e-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005LEN4/?tag=neogaf0e-20

thanks will have a look, but think will get the one that comes with a Vkit lens.

 

[invisibleB]

also here are some samples I took today with my D90 + 50mm F1.8

This one was taken at 1600 ISO, so you can see it has pretty good performance and the noise isn't too noticeable unless you want to nitpick.

nice loving the pitchers, and loving the food even more!

great now im hungry! time to get some food.

 

[invisibleB]

I have done absurd amounts of research...for me it boiled down like this:

1. Pentax k-x. Smaller and lighter, yet most comfortable grip. Has AF motor in body, and IS in body. Fits every pentax lens ever (hello pawn shop/ebay). Basically same sensor as D90, D5000. Best features for $$. Slightly better kit lenses than most. A STEAL at $700 for a 18-55mm and 55-300mm kit.

2. D90. Love the camera body. Great screen, prism viewfinder. AF in body for older lens...no IS in body. A step above the others I am listing in quality...and $$$...but still not weather sealed. Best access to controls quickly. Also pretty bulky and heavy compared to the others.

3. D5000. As close to the pentax k-x as you can get in a Nikon. Nikon has better new lens selection than Pentax, but used is hampered by lack of AF drive motor in body. Again no IS in body. Articulating screen good for macro. Costco has a great two lens and bag kit.

4. Canon Ti series. I would go this way for video. Also great screen, great software for computer tether. I did not like the feel of the Canons...so they went off the list quickly.

I went to the K-x because of value, maximum older lens compatibility, and compact size. The k-x, D0-, D5000 are the only three DSLRs in the top 20 DXO with compact sensors...the rest were half and full frame ($$+BIG).

D90 has the best camera body of those I listed, easily. And the best single kit lens. It is a bit big and heavy for packing compared to the others. D5000 at Costco is a great deal right now. Although I like the K-x over it...it was still very tempting because of the fact it is a Canikon...with the access to the big market, friends lenses, etc.

Hope that helps. I am the last thing from a fanboy....new to this stuff. I realize I didn't give Canon a fair shake, but as noted that was due to the handling.

thanks for the good info

 

[invisibleB]

18-105 lens..i was sitting in the 333 section.

DCX

looks good thats the same lens we will get with it.

 

[DCX]

looks good thats the same lens we will get with it.

I'm not a pro at all and i'm getting used to the terms and uses, iso etc. Even so, the camera makes you look good, it really does. When i learn it, it can only get that much better

DCX

 

[Fox1304]

Hey guys !
I'm about to buy a Canon 550D/T2i, and I have a few questions :
- Should I buy a longer warranty ? (2 year is the base warranty) Do DSLR easily break ?
- I may choose between a 18-55 IS kit or a 18-135 IS, both from Canon. Which one will be the more polyvalent.
- Or should I choose to buy a pack with two objectives such as 18-55 + 70-300 ?

Thanks for your answers !!

 

[VNZ]

Hey guys !
I'm about to buy a Canon 550D/T2i, and I have a few questions :
- Should I buy a longer warranty ? (2 year is the base warranty) Do DSLR easily break ?
- I may choose between a 18-55 IS kit or a 18-135 IS, both from Canon. Which one will be the more polyvalent.
- Or should I choose to buy a pack with two objectives such as 18-55 + 70-300 ?

Thanks for your answers !!

I'd get the cheapest kit lens – or possibly the one with more range if you think you're into tele photography as opposed to street/close-up – and top it off with the cheapest prime lens from Canon, the EF 50mm f/1.8. With those two you'll get a good introduction to the differences of using zooms and primes.

 

[Zombie James]

I'd get the cheapest kit lens – or possibly the one with more range if you think you're into tele photography as opposed to street/close-up – and top it off with the cheapest prime lens from Canon, the EF 50mm f/1.8. With those two you'll get a good introduction to the differences of using zooms and primes.

Does anyone know where I can pick up this prime at a reasonable price? I took some shots with my XSi and the kit lens the other day and i'm starting to notice things I don't like about it image quality-wise, and i've heard good things about the 50mm prime.

 

[BlueTsunami]

Does anyone know where I can pick up this prime at a reasonable price? I took some shots with my XSi and the kit lens the other day and i'm starting to notice things I don't like about it image quality-wise, and i've heard good things about the 50mm prime.

Amazon or BHPhoto should have it for cheap online. Its price used to be around $80 but as of late a lot of photography equipment has been higher priced so now its hovering around $100... which is still a bargain.

 

[oatmeal]

Does anyone know where I can pick up this prime at a reasonable price? I took some shots with my XSi and the kit lens the other day and i'm starting to notice things I don't like about it image quality-wise, and i've heard good things about the 50mm prime.

It's always jumping around in price...

Right now it's 107:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00007E7JU/?tag=neogaf0e-20

I goti t for under 100.