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[theSlacker]

anyone know much about these?

Was just scanning Craigslist and found this interesting specimen. Tempted but don't know much about it, BNC would cover RGB wouldn't it?

BNC is just a connector type, it doesn't mean anything beyond that. That monitor doesn't look like it does RGB. Sorry.

 

[flyover]

I know that it doesn't. I wanted to use an HDMI input for Apple TV and thought maybe I could watch shit with scan lines for fun. Not only can you do no processing on the HDMI pass through, but after a day of having it hooked up the HDCP came up and it stopped working. I'm assuming it's cause Micomsoft makes a lot of capture cards and Apple labeled their products as capturing devices.

Aw, that's too bad. Thanks for the info!

 

[geniusbits]

I've been keeping my eyes out for a Sony KV-XXFV310. Today I saw a KV-32FS320, what is the difference in specs? I read that below the FV310 are the FS100 and FS120, but until not hadn't seen the FS320.
P.S. How about the FV300kit: http://www.cnet.com/products/sony-kv-36fv300kit-36-crt-tv/specs/

 

[brainpann]

I know that it doesn't. I wanted to use an HDMI input for Apple TV and thought maybe I could watch shit with scan lines for fun. Not only can you do no processing on the HDMI pass through, but after a day of having it hooked up the HDCP came up and it stopped working. I'm assuming it's cause Micomsoft makes a lot of capture cards and Apple labeled their products as capturing devices.

Wait, what? I pass my mame computer via hdmi to my xrgb without problem. The only reason I do it us because i prefer the XRGB scanlines. Maybe Apple TV just wont play nice.


Edit-i should mention that Im forcing a 640x480 through hdmi.

 

[geniusbits]

Maybe Apple TV just wont play nice.

Yes on Apple not playing nice. I didn't even know about HDCP until I got an Apple TV.

 

[geniusbits]

Wait are you saying you can add scan lines to stuff coming through the HDMI inputs on the FM?

 

[IrishNinja]

If you know it's an issue with the system and not the cable feel free to send it my way and I'll take a look at it. I don't think I did yours originally, but I can definitely fix it if its something bugging you.

ah, i appreciate it man - i worded that wrong though, it's definitely the cable. there's some wiring exposed by the coupling now, unfortunately - for now, i don't mind moving it about for the right placement when i wanna play Sin & Punishment though

 

[brainpann]

Wait are you saying you can add scan lines to stuff coming through the HDMI inputs on the FM?

Ive never had an issue with it.

 

[Mercutio]

So my PC Engine Duo R and AV Famicom came home today from Baphomet, RGB'd up.

They look FANTASTIC. The PC Engine is a substantial improvement... so crisp and clear. But the NES? MAN. I knew it was going to be a crazy difference with an RGB board installed, but F. SO GOOD.

The only thing I'm trying to figure out now is a good Sync setting for the PC Engine Duo R. Anyone with an RGB'd system know a good one?

 

[brainpann]

The only thing I'm trying to figure out now is a good Sync setting for the PC Engine Duo R. Anyone with an RGB'd system know a good one?

Hmm, i use an RGB modded Duo-R and havent run into any sync issues, so far. What exactly is your issue? Ill see what mine is set to when I get home.

Nice shots, btw.

 

[Mercutio]

Hmm, i use an RGB modded Duo-R and havent run into any sync issues, so far. What exactly is your issue? Ill see what mine is set to when I get home.

Nice shots, btw.

Just slight loss of sync every minute or so. Like, a little flicker of the screen. Frankly, I'm ready to blame the TV; it is dying. My Genesis does something very similar, I haven't found a good setting for my VA4. But I haven't methodically gone through and checked every single interval either. Just kind of switched from 19 to 10 to 26 and none of those have really been perfect.

 

[brainpann]

Just slight loss of sync every minute or so. Like, a little flicker of the screen. Frankly, I'm ready to blame the TV; it is dying. My Genesis does something very similar, I haven't found a good setting for my VA4. But I haven't methodically gone through and checked every single interval either. Just kind of switched from 19 to 10 to 26 and none of those have really been perfect.

I had that problem with my Saturn and I could never figure out why. Eventually, my SNES started giving me trouble too. I had messed with the settings so much trying to fix it, i couldnt remember what was what so i did a factory reset and that seemed to fix the issue. I dont know why that worked, but it did. Maybe try that? It could also be your cable. Where did you get it?

 

[IrishNinja]

congrats merc, and yeah having just got mine back recently i too threw Rondo right in, perfect game to show off the upgrade!
again not as big a jump as say NES/genny (because TG composite actually isn't terrible) but given the system's color palette its still fantastic to see

 

[Mercutio]

I had that problem with my Saturn and I could never figure out why. Eventually, my SNES started giving me trouble too. I had messed with the settings so much trying to fix it, i couldnt remember what was what so i did a factory reset and that seemed to fix the issue. I dont know why that worked, but it did. Maybe try that? It could also be your cable. Where did you get it?

Huh, my Saturn has always been rock solid. Never an issue. I did just update to the newest version of the firmware on the xrgb; I was able to get things working before that. My Genesis model 1 was on that, and after lots of messing around it eventually worked fine. I haven't been so lucky on my model 2 VA4, and the PCE seems very similar if not the same. Dunno. The PCE cable is from whoever baph sourced parts from, and the Genesis uses a retro console accessories one.

Could be my switcher too, though I sincerely hope not.

 

[Friend of Sonic]

So my PC Engine Duo R and AV Famicom came home today from Baphomet, RGB'd up.

They look FANTASTIC. The PC Engine is a substantial improvement... so crisp and clear. But the NES? MAN. I knew it was going to be a crazy difference with an RGB board installed, but F. SO GOOD.

The only thing I'm trying to figure out now is a good Sync setting for the PC Engine Duo R. Anyone with an RGB'd system know a good one?

Do you notice any jailbars with your PCE?

 

[Mercutio]

Do you notice any jailbars with your PCE?

No jailbars at all. I see some banding in my photos but that's just a result of the photo.

Oh, my sync issue isn't my switcher. Pulling that out of the equation doesn't change it. I might try the xrgb on other tvs next. I've heard some folks say that the sync levels vary from screen to screen.

 

[TheWraith]

So my PC Engine Duo R and AV Famicom came home today from Baphomet, RGB'd up.

They look FANTASTIC. The PC Engine is a substantial improvement... so crisp and clear. But the NES? MAN. I knew it was going to be a crazy difference with an RGB board installed, but F. SO GOOD.

The only thing I'm trying to figure out now is a good Sync setting for the PC Engine Duo R. Anyone with an RGB'd system know a good one?

You use an XRGB, but no scanlines?

 

[Mercutio]

You use an XRGB, but no scanlines?

I'm not wild about scan lines. I don't really use them. The xrgb is for pixel clarity for me.

 

[InfiniteNine]

Yeah I'm not going to use scan-lines either when I get mine.

 

[baphomet]

You use an XRGB, but no scanlines?

If I want scanlines I'll use my rgb monitor. If I want a crystal clear picture I'll output my xrgb mini at 1080p.

 

[Mercutio]

Gave my XRGB Mini a reset, and all is well. No more issue that I can see.

 

[IrishNinja]

those of you who don't dig scanlines...try em for certain games/systems, you might come around in some examples. me, i love arcade stuff with em on, for one.

 

[Mercutio]

those of you who don't dig scanlines...try em for certain games/systems, you might come around in some examples. me, i love arcade stuff with em on, for one.

I do think they help define shapes in 8 bit games sometimes. I tend to turn them on once in a while for kicks, but then forget about them entirely.

 

[Timu]

I do all gaming on my capture cards so I wouldn't need an extra display at all!!!

 

[IrishNinja]

I do think they help define shapes in 8 bit games sometimes. I tend to turn them on once in a while for kicks, but then forget about them entirely.

agreed, lotta snes/16-bit looks great to me too
i know some don't fancy 32-bit with lines as much but saturn arcadey games + good lines = sooooo good for me

 

[brainpann]

Gave my XRGB Mini a reset, and all is well. No more issue that I can see.

That's weird and glad to see it worked out. Genny VA4 too?

 

[Mercutio]

That's weird and glad to see it worked out. Genny VA4 too?

Not sure. Started testing Magical Chase with it and then suddenly it was an hour and a half later.

 

[brainpann]

Not sure. Started testing Magical Chase with it and then suddenly it was an hour and a half later.

Hmmm- I do remember having to do it a couple times but things have been fine since. You could also try connecting the cable directly to the mini and seeing if the problem persists.

Edit-nvm. Misunderstood your last comment. Good luck and I hope it stays fixed!

 

[Charles Brandon]

I had that sync issue. In my case it was either the scart switcher or the scart cable from the switcher to the FM causing it.

 

[Coen]

I've just done this.

Buy from Solaris.

You do need another cable otherwise your euro scart cables will be incompatible. I got the sync stripper version of that cable you linked to (unpowered). Works fine with me NES and SNES.

I also bought that scart switch, or at least one that looks exactly like it. It seems fine but...since I started using it I get an occasional what-looks-like a sync glitch thing. It's not enough to ruin the experience though. And it may be due to the other scart cable I bought instead of the switch.

Consider using NTSC consoles

Got mine from Solaris. Paid the extra $15 for their fastest shipping. Was in my hands in less than a week.

Good luck finding a good switcher. I can't find one in stock anywhere. At least in the US, and one with four inputs.

Just to repeat, don't buy that scart switch. I took it out of my set up this evening and the PQ improved instantly. Either that box or the scart cable was fucking it up. I'm going to try a different cable. Sure I've got one somewhere

Thanks for the replies, guys. I've unfortunately already bought the switch, but it wasn't too expensive so I can always get rid of it. I've also bought from Solaris, two days ago, but haven't had a send confirmation yet, even though I've paid for premium shipping. I hope it'll be okay.

I own a PAL SNES and a PAL Everdrive. Should I switch to a US system and if so, why?

 

[Charles Brandon]

Not necessarily - you can get it modded. Basically, if your machine is stuck on 50z you'll be playing games at slower than optimal speeds with black bars. If you get a switch put in you can bring them up to full speed. I believe I'm correct in saying that you can mod a PAL SNES to be 60hz...I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[D.Lo]

Not necessarily - you can get it modded. Basically, if your machine is stuck on 50z you'll be playing games at slower than optimal speeds with black bars. If you get a switch put in you can bring them up to full speed. I believe I'm correct in saying that you can mod a PAL SNES to be 60hz...I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

Yes it's very easy.

 

[Coen]

Not necessarily - you can get it modded. Basically, if your machine is stuck on 50z you'll be playing games at slower than optimal speeds with black bars. If you get a switch put in you can bring them up to full speed. I believe I'm correct in saying that you can mod a PAL SNES to be 60hz...I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

Did some research into this and the superCIC modseems to be the best and most elegant solution. But it's also a bit beyond my novice soldering skills. Might ask around if someone can do it for me. Having a switch sticking out of my case doesn't really appeal to me.

 

[Charles Brandon]

I've got that mod. I didn't do it myself though.

 

[D.Lo]

Did some research into this and the superCIC modseems to be the best and most elegant solution. But it's also a bit beyond my novice soldering skills. Might ask around if someone can do it for me. Having a switch sticking out of my case doesn't really appeal to me.

Forget superCIC silliness. It's a fun, elegant proof of concept kind of solution, but unnecessarily complex when reality is you want to escape the nightmare of 50hz permanently. You have an everdrive, just a simple 60Hz mod (one pin, one wire) and a switch and an extra wire if you reaaaaaaaaaly need some PAL optimised game cart from your childhood to still run.

The switch can easily be mounted discreetly if you use a slider one.

I modded my own PAL SNES in 1993 when I was 13.

 

[Coen]

Forget superCIC silliness. It's a fun, elegant proof of concept kind of solution, but unnecessarily complex when reality is you want to escape the nightmare of 50hz permanently. You have an everdrive, just a simple 60Hz mod (one pin, one wire) and a switch and an extra wire if you reaaaaaaaaaly need some PAL optimised game cart from your childhood to still run.

The switch can easily be mounted discreetly if you use a slider one.

I modded my own PAL SNES in 1993 when I was 13.

You're right, I'm not going to play PAL games anyway so I might as well pick a permanent solution. I have a second, yellowed PAL SNES for those 50 Hz games if I really feel the need to play my originals, but I keep those boxed and in storage anyway.

 

[Charles Brandon]

Amount of times my super fami has been switched to 50hz - 1

And that wasjust to see if my Doom cart worked. It did. I remembered how shit it was and ejected it.

 

[speedlolita]

I'm glad other people think the same as me.

Did this just the other day to my Mega Drive. 50/En to 60/Jp permanently.

 

[moltonasty]

I finally set up my old Sega CDX to my PVM and it's just splendid (with carts). But I realized the disc drive for Sega CD games is a little busted. I was going to try to fix it myself but apparently even just disassembling it requires soldering...it just seems too advanced for me. Any idea where or who I could go to for a CDX repair? Sorry if this is the wrong thread but I thought it was worth a shot. Maybe I'll call the Sega repair line on the back of the console, hah.

 

[Peltz]

I want to piggy back on the question you answered-- I tried setting the Xbox to 720p on the launcher, but wind up getting a letterbox picture on my PVM20L5. Is that normal? I was under the impression that 4:3 could display a 720p picture fine, but maybe I'm wrong.

I'm honestly not sure. Check the aspect ratio settings of your TV and the console. Something seems off.

Also try setting the console to Xbox to 480p and see if that fixes things.

 

[moltonasty]

I want to piggy back on the question you answered-- I tried setting the Xbox to 720p on the launcher, but wind up getting a letterbox picture on my PVM20L5. Is that normal? I was under the impression that 4:3 could display a 720p picture fine, but maybe I'm wrong.

I checked the PVM manual..it says all resolutions above 480p will be in letterbox 16:9. So yeah, perfectly normal. Kinda sucks, but the fact that this monitor can handle 240p through 1080i so well is pretty mindblowing regardless.

 

[Ban Puncher]

Looking at a PVM-14M4A and a PVM-14M2A.

Is one more desirable than the other?

 

[Friend of Sonic]

I'm honestly not sure. Check the aspect ratio settings of your TV and the console. Something seems off.

Also try setting the console to Xbox to 480p and see if that fixes things.

480p definitely works fine

I checked the PVM manual..it says all resolutions above 480p will be in letterbox 16:9. So yeah, perfectly normal. Kinda sucks, but the fact that this monitor can handle 240p through 1080i so well is pretty mindblowing regardless.

Ah, drat. Thanks for checking the manual, I should have thought of that. It sucks that it's letterbox, but yeah, it does look gorgeous when you set it to a higher resolution. I might track down a 720p game and just see how it looks, 16:9 be damned.

 

[geniusbits]

Gave my XRGB Mini a reset, and all is well. No more issue that I can see.

Is that just hitting the reset button on the remote?

 

[geniusbits]

Looking at a PVM-14M4A and a PVM-14M2A.

Is one more desirable than the other?

On eBay? I'm watching those too lol. 4A says it has 800 lines (basically a BVM quality display at that point) and 2A is 600 lines. The 800 lines should make it sharper and fatter scan lines, so it's subjective choice. If you are looking at the same eBay auctions I am, the 4A looks like a 2A when I tried to zoom in on the model number on the back. People take shitty pics on eBay!

 

[KC-Slater]

Looking at a PVM-14M4A and a PVM-14M2A.

Is one more desirable than the other?

I have a PVM-14M2U and love it. Here's a link to a comparison that covers all iterations of those models.

At a glance, it looks like the PVM-14M4A has 800 lines versus the 600 of the PVM-14M2A.

 

[Mercutio]

Is that just hitting the reset button on the remote?

That does work too if you mess up and create an output that your display can't handle. I believe you have to hold it down a bit.

I did it through the menu though.

 

[Charles Brandon]

Thanks for the replies, guys. I've unfortunately already bought the switch, but it wasn't too expensive so I can always get rid of it. I've also bought from Solaris, two days ago, but haven't had a send confirmation yet, even though I've paid for premium shipping. I hope it'll be okay.

I own a PAL SNES and a PAL Everdrive. Should I switch to a US system and if so, why?

Turned out it was the scart cable not the switch. Bought a new THOR!! Cable today. Problem solved.

 

[sir_kevith]

I finally set up my old Sega CDX to my PVM and it's just splendid (with carts). But I realized the disc drive for Sega CD games is a little busted. I was going to try to fix it myself but apparently even just disassembling it requires soldering...it just seems too advanced for me. Any idea where or who I could go to for a CDX repair? Sorry if this is the wrong thread but I thought it was worth a shot. Maybe I'll call the Sega repair line on the back of the console, hah.

My issue with the CDX through RGB is the jailbars I get on blues but I guess that's common. Not sure I'd want to try a fix on it or not. It sounds like old Sega systems have issues with Jailbars. Haven't been able to track down a solid fix.

BTW, what is the CD drive doing when you put a disc in? Does the disc spin and the laser move around? The first things I'd check is if the lense is clean, gears on the underside are moving and greased, and if the motor is actually spinning. Also make sure you're using the correct power supply because I know people get weird behavior from using the wrong power supply.

 

[moltonasty]

My issue with the CDX through RGB is the jailbars I get on blues but I guess that's common. Not sure I'd want to try a fix on it or not. It sounds like old Sega systems have issues with Jailbars. Haven't been able to track down a solid fix.


BTW, what is the CD drive doing when you put a disc in? Does the disc spin and the laser move around? The first things I'd check is if the lense is clean, gears on the underside are moving and greased, and if the motor is actually spinning. Also make sure you're using the correct power supply because I know people get weird behavior from using the wrong power supply.

When you say jailbars, do you just mean huge scanlines? I thought that was considered a plus around here, haha. Picture seems pretty nice to me at least.



I didn't even consider the power supply could be an issue...I'm using the standard Genesis 2 power supply I believe. Could that be why the carts work perfectly but CD's are acting up? I tried booting up Sonic CD, and was making these loud screeching/scratching sounds, it takes forever to load, and keeps skipping cutscenes. The disc is in fine condition. I then tried playing Rebel Assault, and it just keeps getting stuck on the "checking disc" screen.