29inchs is definitely a space eater, I'd love to see a 36inch or above RGB video monitor in person, biggest I've had my hands on is a 33inch Barco
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Upscalers, CRTs, PVMs & RGB: Retro gaming done right!
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Fox Mulder
Member
that's the one I got for $20 at a flea market. Takes up a bit of space, but is worth it. Even a bit overkill seeing what others are happy to pay more for, and what I had to play these games on as a kid.
That's a great flea market find!! Does anyone know if JVC or Ikegami made RGB monitors above 20in?
It will largely be based on the quality of the switch, I've had some that absolutely kill the quality and others that are flawless.
Sixfortyfive
He who pursues two rabbits gets two rabbits.
Are you sure that the output signal of the Wii2HDMI is still 240p? It might upscale.
I will hunt down a 29+ monitor when I have a bigger place.
No magnets around from what I can tell. I really think it's the bigger set since the problem is gone immediately when I power off its screen and the problem is lessened when I move the smaller one away from it.
It may just be an issue with 14L5's component function being susceptible to interference, or rather the third-party Monoprice component cable purchased back in 2010. The top left and right corners have some slight distortion in games and test patterns that completely vanishes when I plug is an S-video source. I also don't recall seeing the scrolling in s-video but it may just be harder to see with the lower quality image. I'll have to test further.
I did discover one other little flaw with the 14L5. It doesn't seamlessly switch between 240p and 480i in games that have both video modes. My test was Resident Evil 2 on N64 with expansion pack. Most of it is 480i, except for the menu and a few specific shots such as outside the police station and a part of a hallway. The resolution switch triggers a flicker like the display was quickly powered off/on. The 20M4U is flawless at switching.
Oh, I also saw a couple of these Checkpoint brand CRT monitors? Anyone have any experience with those?
No magnets around from what I can tell. I really think it's the bigger set since the problem is gone immediately when I power off its screen and the problem is lessened when I move the smaller one away from it.
It may just be an issue with 14L5's component function being susceptible to interference, or rather the third-party Monoprice component cable purchased back in 2010. The top left and right corners have some slight distortion in games and test patterns that completely vanishes when I plug is an S-video source. I also don't recall seeing the scrolling in s-video but it may just be harder to see with the lower quality image. I'll have to test further.
I did discover one other little flaw with the 14L5. It doesn't seamlessly switch between 240p and 480i in games that have both video modes. My test was Resident Evil 2 on N64 with expansion pack. Most of it is 480i, except for the menu and a few specific shots such as outside the police station and a part of a hallway. The resolution switch triggers a flicker like the display was quickly powered off/on. The 20M4U is flawless at switching.
Oh, I also saw a couple of these Checkpoint brand CRT monitors? Anyone have any experience with those?
Kyle
Member
Hey guys, accidentally posted this in a different thread and was kindly directed by televator over to this thread.
I just recently picked up a KV-27FV300 and have some questions about it. When playing my AV Famicom it looks like still sprites are wiggling/moving around. The only way I can describe it is if the picture is 'vibrating' almost. Any idea what the cause of this would be and what I can do to correct it?
I've also noticed the picture seems off-center and the top left corner curves inward. Is this something I can fix via the service menu? I just ordered a brand new remote for the TV for $7 so I can start playing with it as soon as I get my remote.
Anyone else here with a FV300 or FV310? I am curious what general menu settings I should be using on the set as there is a ton of them.
Thanks all!
I just recently picked up a KV-27FV300 and have some questions about it. When playing my AV Famicom it looks like still sprites are wiggling/moving around. The only way I can describe it is if the picture is 'vibrating' almost. Any idea what the cause of this would be and what I can do to correct it?
I've also noticed the picture seems off-center and the top left corner curves inward. Is this something I can fix via the service menu? I just ordered a brand new remote for the TV for $7 so I can start playing with it as soon as I get my remote.
Anyone else here with a FV300 or FV310? I am curious what general menu settings I should be using on the set as there is a ton of them.
Thanks all!
i made sure to get the adapter that doesn't upscale. it sends whatever the Wii is set at.
which brings me to...
it does work on my TV and this is a pretty cheap Samsung model (46" $600)
Sixfortyfive
He who pursues two rabbits gets two rabbits.
Pretty cool.
720x240p60 is part of the HDMI standard, after all, but I've always been curious as to how widely supported it actually is.
720x240p60 is part of the HDMI standard, after all, but I've always been curious as to how widely supported it actually is.
A surprising amount of the lower end Samsung models support it, I only noticed this when playing a PS1 game on my PS3 (I think?) and it switched to 720x240.
Or it might have actually been my Wii2HDMI too. I forget. Either way, yeah, surprisingly widespread.
Fahzgoolin
Banned
I have been looking around for a CRT with composite video or a 4:3 monitor and can't find one that isn't astronomically priced.
I'm sick of playing my old games on my 50" plasma. It can look tremendously blurry.
I'm sick of playing my old games on my 50" plasma. It can look tremendously blurry.
A page or two back a poster had a similar problem as you with a jittery picture. I think the response was that it might be a bad capacitor in the set. That would entail going inside the set and changing caps. I might be remebering wrong.
If it's not just usual ugly Composite and the picture is unusually bad, then make sure you're using a good cable and PSU. Did you test with other consoles or inputs to make sure it's the TV itself? It may just be an old set on its way out.
You will need to go into your set's service menu and adjust horizontal and vertical screen position and size to fix the off-centered image. Keep in mind that each system, and sometimes individual games on the same system, will look different on the screen and won't always be perfect. I calibrate for what generally looks good across the board.
The top left curve may be fixed in the service menu's geometry settings.
Have you checked Craigslist, or ebay with item location limited to your area so you can do local pickup?
I think it's a bad idea. Pre-HDMI receivers are really not good for gaming. They add input lag and may not process 240p correctly. Plus, both the ones I've used (Onkyo and Denon) made the image softer and less vibrant.
I'd strongly urge for an unpowered passive switchbox instead.
so, i'm wondering...
is the calibration done using the 240p suite usable for HD games?
i calibrated my TV using the 240p suite to display things like they should according to the instructions but i dunno if those settings are good for HD games and other stuff. my TV can't save separate profiles so that's why i'm asking.
is the calibration done using the 240p suite usable for HD games?
i calibrated my TV using the 240p suite to display things like they should according to the instructions but i dunno if those settings are good for HD games and other stuff. my TV can't save separate profiles so that's why i'm asking.
theSlacker
Member
I can't even imagine how much anything bigger then a 20" weighs.
I'll be trying to connect N64 (S-video) to an Extron switch, which apparently works:
http://www.videogameperfection.com/2014/11/28/extron-crosspoint-review/
S-Video and even composite (if you must) can be routed through the matrix too with the appropriate break-out adapters.
Anyone know about these s-video breakout cables?
http://www.videogameperfection.com/2014/11/28/extron-crosspoint-review/
S-Video and even composite (if you must) can be routed through the matrix too with the appropriate break-out adapters.
Anyone know about these s-video breakout cables?
Kyle
Member
Thanks guys. I tested it with a few other consoles and it appears to only be an issue with both my AV Famicom and NES. I also have my Dreamcast and Saturn hooked up to the TV via S-Video and I don't see the same effect at all, so maybe it's just NES + Composite = doodoo?
I've also noticed my zapper doesn't work with this set. Is that to be expected? Just wanted to play duck hunt
Funky Papa
FUNK-Y-PPA-4
FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK
I was checking the usual channels for a new monitor when I found a Sony PVM 2130QM FOR 30. I'd have to take a drive to get there, but at that price, IDGAF. My question is, how hard would it be to hook it to my laptop in order to run Hyperspin? I'm very wary of Hz fuckery using PVMs.
I was checking the usual channels for a new monitor when I found a Sony PVM 2130QM FOR 30. I'd have to take a drive to get there, but at that price, IDGAF. My question is, how hard would it be to hook it to my laptop in order to run Hyperspin? I'm very wary of Hz fuckery using PVMs.
Thanks guys. I tested it with a few other consoles and it appears to only be an issue with both my AV Famicom and NES. I also have my Dreamcast and Saturn hooked up to the TV via S-Video and I don't see the same effect at all, so maybe it's just NES + Composite = doodoo?
I've also noticed my zapper doesn't work with this set. Is that to be expected? Just wanted to play duck hunt
I should have taken the time to read yor post more properly. Yeah, NES composit video is terribly noisy. So seeing crazy artifacts is part of the deal there unless you mod for RGB.
Don't know why the zapper wont work. As far as I can see from a quick google, it's a 480i CRT. Can you test the zapper on another CRT?
On a separate conversation entirely:
I looked up the Wiki on the HDMI spec, and sure enough 720 (1440) x 240p is part of the secondary specifications.
Did you try the NES Zapper with an NES? It doesn't work with AV Famicom.
Possibly doable with something like Soft15Khz that makes your computer run at the low resolutions needed by your monitor. However it could be a huge hassle and may not work depending on your laptop's internals. You may end up down a rabbit hole of sifting through old posts on other forums, troubleshooting stuff mysteriously not working, tweaking settings for individual games, having to get extra hardware/cables to get the low-res VGA-to-CRT picture showing up properly, etc.
I'm doing something similar with my old HTPC but using CRT Emudriver. It's easier to set up, but I had to downgrade to Windows 7 and buy a used Radeon card on their list of supported hardware. It only works with XP/7 and some of the old ATI cards up to the 4xxx series.
It may be a little pricey up front, but if you're just starting out and not fixated on arcade games, it's much easier to just buy original console hardware and a few games to start. Maybe get an Everdrive down the line if there's one for your system of choice and games are hard to find or crazy expensive.
Possibly doable with something like Soft15Khz that makes your computer run at the low resolutions needed by your monitor. However it could be a huge hassle and may not work depending on your laptop's internals. You may end up down a rabbit hole of sifting through old posts on other forums, troubleshooting stuff mysteriously not working, tweaking settings for individual games, having to get extra hardware/cables to get the low-res VGA-to-CRT picture showing up properly, etc.
I'm doing something similar with my old HTPC but using CRT Emudriver. It's easier to set up, but I had to downgrade to Windows 7 and buy a used Radeon card on their list of supported hardware. It only works with XP/7 and some of the old ATI cards up to the 4xxx series.
It may be a little pricey up front, but if you're just starting out and not fixated on arcade games, it's much easier to just buy original console hardware and a few games to start. Maybe get an Everdrive down the line if there's one for your system of choice and games are hard to find or crazy expensive.
The Barco was 200 pounds, I couldn't move it at all lol (except with a pallet jack)
Funky Papa
FUNK-Y-PPA-4
Just as I imagined. The price is ridiculously low, but given that I'd have to drive around 400 km and spend some real cash on gas (not to mention an entire day on the road) I'm going to ponder this very slowly. A comparable computer CRT costs about the same and it's essentially plug and play for all intents and purposes. Still, those scanlines...
sixteen-bit
Member
Someone mentioned earlier in the thread that the Elro switches on ebay are just rebranded Hama ones so they should be good.
Was it this post?
I almost got the Elro scart switch until I read a post on the shmups forum about the Elro having audio feedback, which the above Gaffer mentions. I have a Hama and there's no buzzing (two actually but haven't tested the other yet). They may not be the same on the inside.
Others seem to confirm this:
http://www.skooterblog.com/en/2015/...-metal-com-3-entradas-e-1-saida/#.VeY26LVUWUl
And from the comments section of this Hama review (which mentions no buzzing):
http://www.videogameperfection.com/2014/06/28/selector-100s-review/
Q: Are the hama 100s, the vivanco sbx84, and philips swv2052w the same product?
all three products seem to be the same
A: No, unfortunately they look the same but can perform quite differently.
Frankly the scart switch situation is quite shit now and I'm leaving it behind. I'll soon be fully up and running with a 12-input, 8-output Extron matrix switch. I'm up to seven devices and have two monitors now so it makes even more sense than sticking with the Hama.
RadarScope1
Member
Wait, the NES Zapper doesn't work with AV Famicom? I have been assuming all NES controllers and all FC controllers worked on an AV FC since both types of controller ports are present.
Doesn't work. I tried a few games with the official Zapper, and a third-party Tomee gun to make sure my ancient Zapper wasn't just busted.
http://famicomworld.com/workshop/tech/nes-zapper-on-av-famicom/
Bapho is RGB modding my AV Famicom and I requested the Zapper mod.
http://famicomworld.com/workshop/tech/nes-zapper-on-av-famicom/
Bapho is RGB modding my AV Famicom and I requested the Zapper mod.
BONKERS
Member
You are best off buying one of these when the boards are done being patched and the the batches are available
http://assemblergames.com/l/threads/gscartsw-automatic-8-1-scart-rgb-switch.52513/
It wouldn't be PS3. The PS3 at it's lowest can output at 480i, even with PS1 games.
RadarScope1
Member
That now makes perfect sense about the Zapper, thanks. Bit of a bummer, but since I'll most likely be doing all my retro gaming on a modern TV via Framemeister when I finally get one, I had already planned on the fact light gun games were not going to playable for me. I don't foresee a chance to have a CRT setup any time in the near future. However, if I ever have a FC modded for RGB it would make sense to toss the gun mod in the mix, just in case.
The More You Know (TM) ......
The More You Know (TM) ......
sixteen-bit
Member
While we're on the subject, how is the WiiU VC version of duck hunt for those that have played it?
I think this a dirrect result of the PS3 being so early in the developmenp of the ever changing HDMI spec.
PumpkinSpice
Banned
My monitor definitely doesn't and that's from 2012.
What HDMI spec is it?
PumpkinSpice
Banned
I have no idea and can't seem to find out online. HDMI 1.3a is circa 2006; was it common for OEMs to skimp out on HDMI features that late?
The Shadow
Member
Just a FWIW. Me and the wife donated to Savers the other day (second-hand chain store for those who don't have 'em) and there was a Sony XBR for sale for <$20. Tube TVs are dirt cheap, if not free, and definitely worth getting for older games. That's if you have the room for that kind of setup anyway.
People mentioned geometry testing. It's good to have some kind of test of geometry but keep in mind that very few if any tubes will have perfect geometry like an LCD. Moreover, sometimes you can actually fix geometry issues by finding the service manuals and adjusting those settings via the remote.
If you do this though, definitely take notes on the original settings before you adjust. I did this with an old samsung, and the picture looked awesome afterwards. It was a sad day when that TV finally crapped out.
People mentioned geometry testing. It's good to have some kind of test of geometry but keep in mind that very few if any tubes will have perfect geometry like an LCD. Moreover, sometimes you can actually fix geometry issues by finding the service manuals and adjusting those settings via the remote.
If you do this though, definitely take notes on the original settings before you adjust. I did this with an old samsung, and the picture looked awesome afterwards. It was a sad day when that TV finally crapped out.
It could be the case... What brand and model you got?
PumpkinSpice
Banned
BenQ XL2420T. It's a nice low latency panel and even though its fairly small I use it more often for old games because the latency is so low.
Yeah I'm starting to think I'm way off on my hunch. 1080p60 is also listed as a secondary timing on the wiki for 1.3a. Still... There's gotta be a way to tell if a device with HDMI can do 240p aside from hooking up to it.
Kawika
Member
Hey Gaf,
I am kind of a RGB noob and I was hoping to get some help. I picked up a PVM 14m2u about 6 months ago and finally got around to acquiring a SNES. For a while I was playing VC games from my Wii in 240p using component cables.
Last week I picked up some recommended cables from a Florida based ebayer and scart to bnc cables that were recommended by retrorgb.com.
I was always able to fine tune the chroma/phase via the dials on the front of the PVM but once I got the SNES hooked up via RGB it no longer allowed me to adjust even the contrast and the brightness levels via those face dials. I finally messed with the menus enough to allow the face dials to adjust contrast and brightness again (I still don't know how). But phase and chroma can't be adjusted and when I try to change chroma levels in the menus nothing changes.
Is there something about RGB that doesn't work right with phase and chroma. Super Metroid in S-Video actually looked better due to slightly over-saturated colors. With RGB, its much clearer picture but the colors have no pop.
TLDR:I need help from a PVM expert. My PVM14m2u won't let me use the face dials to adjust chroma/phase via rgb like I could with Component/S-Video. How do I turn that on again?
I am kind of a RGB noob and I was hoping to get some help. I picked up a PVM 14m2u about 6 months ago and finally got around to acquiring a SNES. For a while I was playing VC games from my Wii in 240p using component cables.
Last week I picked up some recommended cables from a Florida based ebayer and scart to bnc cables that were recommended by retrorgb.com.
I was always able to fine tune the chroma/phase via the dials on the front of the PVM but once I got the SNES hooked up via RGB it no longer allowed me to adjust even the contrast and the brightness levels via those face dials. I finally messed with the menus enough to allow the face dials to adjust contrast and brightness again (I still don't know how). But phase and chroma can't be adjusted and when I try to change chroma levels in the menus nothing changes.
Is there something about RGB that doesn't work right with phase and chroma. Super Metroid in S-Video actually looked better due to slightly over-saturated colors. With RGB, its much clearer picture but the colors have no pop.
TLDR:I need help from a PVM expert. My PVM14m2u won't let me use the face dials to adjust chroma/phase via rgb like I could with Component/S-Video. How do I turn that on again?
theSlacker
Member
With RGB, as far as I know, you don't. Adjusting it in the internal menus doesn't do anything on RGB either. With RGB getting your contrast right along with brightness will add the extra "pop".
D.Lo
Member
Chroma and Phase are I'm guessing for adjusting the colour of combined colour signals, like Composite.
I'm guessing chroma means the amplitude of the chrominance, phase will be the phase of the chrominance. It's for the separate colour brightness (saturation)and hue signals carried in composite.
RGB bypasses this as each colour has its own luminance (it's the whole signal) and hue is irrelevant, as it's all one colour.
I'm guessing chroma means the amplitude of the chrominance, phase will be the phase of the chrominance. It's for the separate colour brightness (saturation)and hue signals carried in composite.
RGB bypasses this as each colour has its own luminance (it's the whole signal) and hue is irrelevant, as it's all one colour.
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