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[missile]

Regarding the Genesis,
does any one know the full visible screen width in pixels? The maximal usable
width is 320 pixels, no problem, but if you add in the borders then to what
amount does it add all up? I computed about 32 pixels for the border (left+
right). Anyone? Unfortunately, I haven't found any documents talking about the
VDPs timing, i.e. in saying what's the VDPs active line-time is when
outputting an NTSC signal. The VDP does produce all the signals like sync,
burst, border, active screen etc. and these signals are all timed. But no
document about the timing itself. For example, how long is the VDPs horizontal
sync-pulse including front and back porch?

 

[televator]

Regarding the Genesis,
does any one know the full visible screen width in pixels? The maximal usable
width is 320 pixels, no problem, but if you add in the borders then to what
amount does it add all up? I computed about 32 pixels for the border (left+
right). Anyone? Unfortunately, I haven't found any documents talking about the
VDPs timing, i.e. in saying what's the VDPs active line-time is when
outputting an NTSC signal. The VDP does produce all the signals like sync,
burst, border, active screen etc. and these signals are all timed. But no
document about the timing itself. For example, how long is the VDPs horizontal
sync-pulse including front and back porch?

I can only think that people on Sega 16 could help you. A handful of the users there really know a lot about Genesis guts and programming. A lot mods come out of that site actually.

 

[Peltz]

It's really obvious on things like still text.

That's the biggest issue with interlaced even on a CRT in my opinion. Text has visual noise to it. Everything else looks just about as good as 480p.

 

[RadarScope1]

I took one last look at the JVC monitor I'm going to test and pick up before I ordered my SNES and Genesis RGB and BNC cables. Here the back panel:

Looks pretty standard, from what I understand. Sync is on the bottom at left. I will break out the audio from the BNC cable into a small amp for 2-channel sound.

What's with the open/75 ohm switch? Which do I choose there?

Also, is sync needed for the other inputs besides RGB? I might use s-vid or composite on other consoles until such time as I afford RGB mods.

 

[geniusbits]

I took one last look at the JVC monitor I'm going to test and pick up before I ordered my SNES and Genesis RGB and BNC cables. Here the back panel:



Looks pretty standard, from what I understand. Sync is on the bottom at left. I will break out the audio from the BNC cable into a small amp for 2-channel sound.

What's with the open/75 ohm switch? Which do I choose there?

Choose 75 ohm if you aren't sending video out, open if you are.

 

[NOLA_Gaffer]

I took one last look at the JVC monitor I'm going to test and pick up before I ordered my SNES and Genesis RGB and BNC cables. Here the back panel:

Jealous.

 

[NormalFish]

Jealous.

Yup. I still am not sure if I would be able to overcome my distaste for capacitor squeal enough to enjoy a crt these days but the jvcs seem nice.

Reminds me actually... Has anyone gone about asking a hospital what they do with old monitors? Who should I look to contact?

 

[Chinner]

For ps1, should I get a scart that is luma sync? That's wot U tube is suggesting.

Also, any recommendation for a scart splitter?

 

[NormalFish]

For ps1, should I get a scart that is luma sync? That's wot U tube is suggesting.

Also, any recommendation for a scart splitter?

Yes, luma for sync. Composite video as sync can cause checkerboards and csync requires a mod.

 

[catabarez]

The 8 SCART switch is up for pre order on RetroRGB

 

[Peagles]

The 8 SCART switch is up for pre order on RetroRGB

Damn, wish I had the cash for that...

My switches cost so little and they're great but that thing is beautiful!

 

[Timu]

Everything else looks just about as good as 480p.

I wish that was true in my case.

This is nowhere near as good as 480p in motion in my case. Sure, you guys game on CRTs so depending on the display it may not be as bad. But seeing how everything is through my capture cards I have to set up my upscaler everytime I play a 480i game to deinterlace and in order to record at 60FPS because without it my cards are limited to 30FPS since they hate interlaced content as much as I do.

This shows you how awful it can get and what it really looks like when it's on something that doesn't hide it's awfulness. Why so few PS2 games support 480p is beyond me.

This is what I liked about the OG Xbox...just about every game I tried did 480p. Agent Under Fire seems to be 480i oddly enough for the OG Xbox, but at least those games aren't a pain to record compared to the PS2.=p

 

[PumpkinSpice]

I wish that was true in my case.

This is nowhere near as good as 480p in motion in my case. Sure, you guys game on CRTs so depending on the display it may not be as bad. But seeing how everything is through my capture cards I have to set up my upscaler everytime I play a 480i game to deinterlace and in order to record at 60FPS because without it my cards are limited to 30FPS since they hate interlaced content as much as I do.

This shows you how awful it can get and what it really looks like when it's on something that doesn't hide it's awfulness. Why so few PS2 games support 480p is beyond me.

This is what I liked about the OG Xbox...just about every game I tried did 480p. Agent Under Fire seems to be 480i oddly enough for the OG Xbox, but at least those games aren't a pain to record compared to the PS2.=p

Can't you just run something to do software deinterlacing after it reaches your PC if you're just trying to record? There are some very good deinterlacing algorithms even for real time use...

 

[Timu]

Can't you just run something to do software deinterlacing after it reaches your PC if you're just trying to record? There are some very good deinterlacing algorithms even for real time use...

I can do that, but then I can't record at 60FPS because they flat out don't record 480i@60FPS without an upscaler. I get an error each time I do it at 60FPS.

 

[Chinner]

Sorry for all the newb questions...

Looking at getting scart connectors, do I need to get these special insulated types from like retro gaming.co.uk or are the official release usually fine?

Usually I would dismiss those special types, like I would with like monster cables, but not sure if that applies here...

 

[Shin Johnpv]

The 8 SCART switch is up for pre order on RetroRGB

DAYUM at that price. I'm sure it's totally worth it as it looks insanely well made, but I just can't afford it.

Hopefully this isn't a we'll make one batch and in 5 years maybe make another situation.

 

[TGMIII]

Sorry for all the newb questions...

Looking at getting scart connectors, do I need to get these special insulated types from like retro gaming.co.uk or are the official release usually fine?

Usually I would dismiss those special types, like I would with like monster cables, but not sure if that applies here...

I'm no expert on the topic but shielding in cabling generally will reduce noise which results in a cleaner video/audio output.

Just this weekend I was testing the difference between a standard megadrive SCART and a MD1 SCART from retrogamingcables and it removed a noticeable amount of noise coming from the audio when there was a heavy amount of white being displayed.

 

[geniusbits]

DAYUM at that price. I'm sure it's totally worth it as it looks insanely well made, but I just can't afford it.

Hopefully this isn't a we'll make one batch and in 5 years maybe make another situation.

Where can you find the parts to make something like that? I was hoping to put together something with my electrical engineering friends when I first saw the 8 splitter prototype but have no idea where you would source parts for the female SCART ins or the male out. I think someone else could make something comparable for less $$$, especially if you got a mass produced board.

 

[Balb]

The 8 SCART switch is up for pre order on RetroRGB

Been waiting for this for months. Thanks.

 

[Bancho]

I took one last look at the JVC monitor I'm going to test and pick up before I ordered my SNES and Genesis RGB and BNC cables. Here the back panel:



Looks pretty standard, from what I understand. Sync is on the bottom at left. I will break out the audio from the BNC cable into a small amp for 2-channel sound.

What's with the open/75 ohm switch? Which do I choose there?

Also, is sync needed for the other inputs besides RGB? I might use s-vid or composite on other consoles until such time as I afford RGB mods.

Not sure if you need it or not but I have the Service Manual for these monitors your more than welcome to have

 

[catabarez]

DAYUM at that price. I'm sure it's totally worth it as it looks insanely well made, but I just can't afford it.

Hopefully this isn't a we'll make one batch and in 5 years maybe make another situation.

I may end up pre ordering it. I'm sure they'll have plenty available.

 

[RadarScope1]

Not sure if you need it or not but I have the Service Manual for these monitors your more than welcome to have

Awesome. I'll keep this in mind. I'm so close. I'll PM you shortly.

 

[Mega]

The 8 SCART switch is up for pre order on RetroRGB

Oh it's the gscartsw, I thought this was going to be Retro Gaming Cable UK's scart switch (purely my assumption they're considering making one based on an email from a few months ago).

I think the price is fair for what you're getting. For two Hama 3-input switches, I paid $55 (ebay) and $80~ (Amazon UK). I tried looking for better, more inputs, less expensive, but that was the best available at the time. There are less options now, practically none if you don't want the absolute crap switches or iffy Hama clones on ebay.

edit: I looked into the Shinybow at the time (Summer 2015) and they discontinued the 6-input, 2-output switch in the States and only had an expensive 4-input switch as an alternative. Looking at their US website now, it looks like the 6-input will be back in stock on April 29 for $180, and the 4-input has had a drastic price decrease to $130. That's surprising.

http://www.ani-av.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=199
http://www.ani-av.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=205

 

[Galdelico]

Yup. I still am not sure if I would be able to overcome my distaste for capacitor squeal enough to enjoy a crt these days but the jvcs seem nice.

Reminds me actually... Has anyone gone about asking a hospital what they do with old monitors? Who should I look to contact?

Take my words with a pinch of salt, since Italy is the usual mess when it comes to this kind of stuff... I asked my cousin (he's a doctor) and he told me that - after decades of anarchy and all kinds of unregulated robbery - nowadays hospitals have to follow very strict and public procedures, in order to scrap their old equipment, monitors included.

 

[missile]

I can only think that people on Sega 16 could help you. A handful of the users there really know a lot about Genesis guts and programming. A lot mods come out of that site actually.

Thx for the hint. Scanned the side but not much about the timings I'm after.
However, I came to realise that the Genisis VDP is based on the TMS9918A
(256px) and calculated from its 5.3MHz dot-clock the timings for the Genisis
VDPs 320px resolution at a dot-clock of 6.71MHz and matched these timings with
the analog NTSC timings leading to a ~33 pixel border at 320px. Hence, around
16 pixel to the left and 17 pixels to the right (or wise-versa), perhaps not
all visible due to overscan.

That's the biggest issue with interlaced even on a CRT in my opinion. Text has visual noise to it. Everything else looks just about as good as 480p.

A slight vertical blur helps to lessen the flicker (edge flickering) of text.

 

[mikefrails]

Does the size of the CRT factor in at all?

My dad has one that's about 30inches give or take but it's also one of those ones with the huge backs and it's heavy as hell. I'd take it off his hands if I could put it to retro gaming use.

 

[RadarScope1]

Does the size of the CRT factor in at all?

My dad has one that's about 30inches give or take but it's also one of those ones with the huge backs and it's heavy as hell. I'd take it off his hands if I could put it to retro gaming use.

Most in this thread are more concerned with quality over size. That is why people value a 13 or 20 inch pro monitor over a 24 or 30 inch consumer CRT. If it's a good brand and has the inputs you're looking for, then go for it. Especially since it's free. Personally, I like a bigger screen. I have a 24 inch Trinitron that I think is a great size (the only downsize to getting my JVC monitor is bumping the screen real estate down to 20 inches). 30 could be overkill for some, but I'll tell you what, I took my NES to my brother-in-law's house where they have a pretty nice 55-inch rear projection TV. Those big-ass boxer sprites in Mike Tyson's Punch-Out looked GREAT on a huge TV.

tl;dr - when it comes to size, it's just your personal preference.

 

[NOLA_Gaffer]

I like the small TVs because I generally treat my retro gaming as a smaller, more intimate experience, typically at a desk.

 

[PumpkinSpice]

I don't play on CRTs but I thought I heard larger TVs are more prone to geometry issues than smaller ones.

 

[NormalFish]

Take my words with a pinch of salt, since Italy is the usual mess when it comes to this kind of stuff... I asked my cousin (he's a doctor) and he told me that - after decades of anarchy and all kinds of unregulated robbery - nowadays hospitals have to follow very strict and public procedures, in order to scrap their old equipment, monitors included.

hm... that seems like it'd be very location-specific. Thanks for the intel, though, regardless

 

[Flizzzipper]

The 8 SCART switch is up for pre order on RetroRGB

A little more than I was hoping for but it's the last piece of hardware I'm going to need...hell, I'm already in deep enough might as well finish it off.

 

[Xion_Stellar]

So my sister's husband asked me about getting a SEGA Genesis (Model 1) running on a modern TV (because he bought the unit in a garage sale without Video Cables) and without telling him to go spend $300+ on a Framemeister the quick and dirty way to get the system running would be to buy this cable:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sega-Mega-d...369807?hash=item281012f58f:g:254AAOSw6EhUPlOp

and this box:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D86UYBS/?tag=neogaf0e-20

and plug it into his TV right?

 

[Shadow Hog]

A little more than I was hoping for but it's the last piece of hardware I'm going to need...hell, I'm already in deep enough might as well finish it off.

Pretty much where I stood.

I mean, it's not exactly the last piece of the puzzle I'd need (I expect I'll need more SCART cables going forward, including at least one bog-standard male-to-male one since I only have the one), nor is it really a vital one, but I'd sure as heck love to have it, so... pre-ordered.

 

[speedlolita]

So my sister's husband asked me about getting a SEGA Genesis (Model 1) running on a modern TV (because he bought the unit in a garage sale without Video Cables) and without telling him to go spend $300+ on a Framemeister the quick and dirty way to get the system running would be to buy this cable:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sega-Mega-d...369807?hash=item281012f58f:g:254AAOSw6EhUPlOp

and this box:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D86UYBS/?tag=neogaf0e-20

and plug it into his TV right?

Or just buy a composite cable.

 

[RedSquare]

^This

 

[TGMIII]

Anyone here have a RGB modded Famicom-AV, or any RGB modded NES, and also use a 3rd party PSU & a Everdrive R8.

Just wanted to check if there's any power draw issues or image noise issues that could come up.

 

[PumpkinSpice]

Anyone here have a RGB modded Famicom-AV, or any RGB modded NES, and also use a 3rd party PSU & a Everdrive R8.

Just wanted to check if there's any power draw issues or image noise issues that could come up.

I do. The power brick shouldn't matter too much (unless it's ridiculously weak), you'll notice it gets more hot though since it's putting more stuff through the 7802. Haven't noticed any noise issues.

BTW anyone know of a good drop in lower power 7802 replacement I can get on ebay?

 

[Xion_Stellar]

Or just buy a composite cable.

Let's assume his TV doesn't have Composite or S-Video though (since I'm not sure if he does) would the cable and box that I mentioned be the next best option?

 

[Sixfortyfive]

Let's assume his TV doesn't have Composite or S-Video though (since I'm not sure if he does) would the cable and box that I mentioned be the next best option?

Did those component cables by HD Retrovision ever get released? Those would probably be a nice, simple one-console solution for those who aren't willing to drop a whole lot of cash or acquire extra A/V equipment.

 

[Xion_Stellar]

Did those component cables by HD Retrovision ever get released? Those would probably be a nice, simple one-console solution for those who aren't willing to drop a whole lot of cash or acquire extra A/V equipment.

Nope they are not released since their latest Kickstarter post says they are still making final modifications and working with the manufacturer.

 

[Mega]

I do. The power brick shouldn't matter too much (unless it's ridiculously weak), you'll notice it gets more hot though since it's putting more stuff through the 7802. Haven't noticed any noise issues.

BTW anyone know of a good drop in lower power 7802 replacement I can get on ebay?

Which third party adapter do you use? Curious because an SNES I won at auction last year came with a crap power adapter. It failed at booting up Starfox and the SD2SNES Everdrive. Ended up getting the official adapter after not being able to find a third party option of comparable quality.

 

[goldenpp72]

I ordered 2 of those Scart switches from retrorgb, but as they don't come with male to male scart cables i'll need to get 2 I guess. Anyone have the cheapest/best option?

 

[NOLA_Gaffer]

I ordered 2 of those Scart switches from retrorgb, but as they don't come with male to male scart cables i'll need to get 2 I guess. Anyone have the cheapest/best option?

Jesus, just rollin' in the dough eh?

I kid.

 

[goldenpp72]

Jesus, just rollin' in the dough eh?

I kid.

Unfortunately not, however, i've been checking that thread almost daily for well over a year, it was painful to keep seeing the price creep up while no option to order existed

I have I think 13 consoles to hook up via RGB, being able to finally have them all turned on without having to unplug and replug every single time will be wonderful though, and is the final piece to my setup, so I guess I said screw it and bit.

No more spending for me for some time unfortunately, i'm spent

 

[Peagles]

I ordered 2 of those Scart switches from retrorgb, but as they don't come with male to male scart cables i'll need to get 2 I guess. Anyone have the cheapest/best option?

I have a whole stack here, I could work out shipping to you? I've been thinking I should ship some out to RGB buddies... They're gold plated and flat so nicely shielded.

 

[RadarScope1]

Let's assume his TV doesn't have Composite or S-Video though (since I'm not sure if he does) would the cable and box that I mentioned be the next best option?

You should find out what inputs it has. If it has component, then I would think the best option would be the RGB cable, an RGB-to-component converter (about the same price as the HDMI one you listed) and a basic component cable. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here...

 

[goldenpp72]

I have a whole stack here, I could work out shipping to you? I've been thinking I should ship some out to RGB buddies... They're gold plated and flat so nicely shielded.

What lengths do you have? I ask since most of my cables are already 8 feet so, i'd not want to add 2 more long lengths when in reality, I only need one short one for the daisy chain, and maybe a few feet for the rest. I see they have some on ebay but I have no idea of telling quality.

 

[Peagles]

What lengths do you have? I ask since most of my cables are already 8 feet so, i'd not want to add 2 more long lengths when in reality, I only need one short one for the daisy chain, and maybe a few feet for the rest. I see they have some on ebay but I have no idea of telling quality.

I'm just moving house so I'll check when I find one but they aren't very long. I try to keep my cables as short as I can, I wanna say maybe 1 metre?

 

[Peltz]

Did those component cables by HD Retrovision ever get released? Those would probably be a nice, simple one-console solution for those who aren't willing to drop a whole lot of cash or acquire extra A/V equipment.

Isn't it a crapshoot as to whether an HDTV would work with them though? A lot of HDTVs won't take 240p over component.

So my sister's husband asked me about getting a SEGA Genesis (Model 1) running on a modern TV (because he bought the unit in a garage sale without Video Cables) and without telling him to go spend $300+ on a Framemeister the quick and dirty way to get the system running would be to buy this cable:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sega-Mega-d...369807?hash=item281012f58f:g:254AAOSw6EhUPlOp

and this box:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D86UYBS/?tag=neogaf0e-20

and plug it into his TV right?

As for this, if your husband wants to play Genesis games on his HDTV I'd actually recommend him a backwards compatible Wii with Virtual Console + component cables rather than a Genesis with no Framemeister. It will render Genesis games in 480p, plus he will have access to one of the best libraries in video game history for a really cheap price as far as hardware is concerned.

Input lag would be lower when scaling from 480p, plus the video quality will be much cleaner than anything you'll get from a Genesis without a framemeister. There's almost no benefit to sticking with original hardware when it will look like shit on a modern display.

 

[Sixfortyfive]

Isn't it a crapshoot as to whether an HDTV would work with them though? A lot of HDTVs won't take 240p over component.

Sure, but if it doesn't work, you might as well stop there and just stick with composite cables if you're not willing to throw down some real cash.