NOLA_Gaffer
Banned
Every 5 to 10 minutes my CRT makes a light "pop" sound, like something you might hear in the middle of the night when your home is settling. Should I be concerned or is this a normal thing?
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Upscalers, CRTs, PVMs & RGB: Retro gaming done right!
- Thread starter IrishNinja
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sir_kevith
Member
That sounds like something is arcing. Most likely it's the flyback which is a very bad sign. Does the screen do anything when it pops? If it is the flyback sometimes youll see the screen do weird things.
Danny Dudekisser
I paid good money for this Dynex!
I mean, that's a normal sound, but every 5 to 10 minutes? That part of it is a bit concerning.
NOLA_Gaffer
Banned
Not as far as I can tell.
sir_kevith
Member
Well if you're at all curious heres a little vid of what i suspect is going on back there:
https://youtu.be/5iWgVN5Hztw
Probably not as bad if you're not seeing any effects on the screen. Theres also other components that could arc but usually its the damn flyback.
Is the picture affected with each pop? Edit: I see you answered this. It could be high voltage arcing, an internal part starting to fail, or it's dirty and needs cleaning inside... possibly dangerous as it needs to be properly discharged before being handled by someone with experience. Whatever the case, it needs a service tech who's not around anymore and parts no longer in supply, all at a cost well above what you paid for the monitor. Try contacting the seller and request a refund for the faulty monitor. This would now give you reason to visit the other person with the dozen CRTs so you can test and pick out a new one!
NOLA_Gaffer
Banned
I don't think I'm going to go through the hassle of a return, so I'll just run this one until it dies and then chuck it.
Still undecided about the craigslist listing. Ideally I'd pick up a 14" to replace this one and a 20" for future use, but I've got to convince myself that's worth the trip and the cash first.
Nothing like sitting in the moonlight listening to some phat MD beats directly through the headphone jack. I'm half set up and even though my 20" needs adjusting I can live with it for the time being. Too dark to continue tonight and too hot to have the lights on, so sleep now and continue in the morning.
There's going to be more made eventually.
sixteen-bit
Member
blood on the streets... great pic and description I feel like i'm there
RadarScope1
Member
Thanks. I think I've watched this one before.
All I know is the monitor I'm getting is a JVC with "Hi-Resolution" indicated on the front. I assume the TVL is higher than the typical 480. Without having the model number on hand, I can't look it up.
NormalFish
Banned
that might be referring to what we normally think of as resolution in terms of pixels. 720p, 1080p, etc. I don't know if TVL was ever used in "High Resolution" advertising.
Also, TVL would rarely be 480 if at all. it's typically higher as explained in the video.
480 lines is the vertical resolution as made up by the horizontal scanning lines from top to bottom. As you may know if it's SD/15KHz the display can only do 480 interlaced at most, 240p for many old games. Monitors with 480p and up have higher scanning frequencies (HD CRTs).
TVL is horizontal resolution, the vertical lines on screen from left to right. Anything from 250 to 1000 will be fine for games up to the PS2/GC era. Your monitor is probably a SD CRT with TVL between 600-800 lines. This is indeed considered "high resolution" compared to consumer sets and older pro monitors.
People complained about terrible legibility and muddled details on consumer CRT sets when PS3/360 came out because the games needed more resolving power to be presented adequately. I've never tested it but I figure a 800+ TVL, 480i pro monitor with Component would be sufficiently clear enough to make all those games playable.
The best kind. Watch all his videos on CRTs and upscaling. Edit: thought you meant his amped up personality.
NormalFish
Banned
proper diet and training
NormalFish
Banned
Pardon the double post.
Looking for information on the Sony PVM-1351Q
I didn't see a picture of the back of the unit I'm looking at, but I've googled around. It's got the classic R/G/B/S BNC inputs, I believe. 450 TVL (iffy, but not bad for 12").
Basically, anyone have any impressions? Negative or positive.
Looking for information on the Sony PVM-1351Q
I didn't see a picture of the back of the unit I'm looking at, but I've googled around. It's got the classic R/G/B/S BNC inputs, I believe. 450 TVL (iffy, but not bad for 12").
Basically, anyone have any impressions? Negative or positive.
I've spent a good part of my evening reading his humongous essay on colours, pixels and CRTs. It was written by a graphic designer, coder, demomaker, for the Amstrad CPC, an old 8bit computer and explains, well, almost everything there is to know about pixels, how they show up on your CRT, and how to make them look better. It's quite lengthy, the menu on the side allows you to get to what interests you the most. You should enjoy "Brightness" and "Subpixels", though everything is worth a read in my opinion.
https://translate.google.com/transl...hnique/technique_gfx0.html&edit-text=&act=url
(Original article in French, googletranslate seems to do a surprisingly ok job with it)
Pretty pictures to get you interested:
single pixel, black on white and white on black. (CRT)
white, grey, white, grey (CRT)
(the CPC was sold with a 14" 15kHz RGB CRT with an aperture grille, similar to the Trinitrons)
With and without antialiasing on an LCD screen
And loads of explanations on how to make antialiasing work on a very limited palette, how to trick a VDP that can only display 27 colours into displaying 125 colours (but still really displaying 27 colours), etc.
Very informative.
https://translate.google.com/transl...hnique/technique_gfx0.html&edit-text=&act=url
(Original article in French, googletranslate seems to do a surprisingly ok job with it)
Pretty pictures to get you interested:
single pixel, black on white and white on black. (CRT)
white, grey, white, grey (CRT)
(the CPC was sold with a 14" 15kHz RGB CRT with an aperture grille, similar to the Trinitrons)
With and without antialiasing on an LCD screen
And loads of explanations on how to make antialiasing work on a very limited palette, how to trick a VDP that can only display 27 colours into displaying 125 colours (but still really displaying 27 colours), etc.
Very informative.
Well I just tried this on my big Panny plasma and it's all go. Got a bit of flickering (screen going dark for a couple secs every now and then) but I think it was our old component switch playing up.
That's pretty nice, It's good to know that these Scart-Component boxes are dumb enough not to care about the sync and just translate everything thrown at them.
Yeh it worked well enough that I'm sure you could get it pretty good looking with a little tweaking.
In other news my new retro corner is complete. Well... I need to do cable management, but it's so freakin hot here. Gonna go to the movies and do that when I get back.
NormalFish
Banned
Just read this Article from Fudoh: http://yokotate.hazard-city.de/
Somehow skipped over it before. Really interesting stuff. Wonder if there's a more modern way to do similarly.
Also anyone know anything about this monitor? Can't figure out if it does 31khz/480p
Somehow skipped over it before. Really interesting stuff. Wonder if there's a more modern way to do similarly.
Also anyone know anything about this monitor? Can't figure out if it does 31khz/480p
Pic while I procrastinate my cable management... Just to show y'all what I'm facing convergence-wise with my 20" (it's a lot older than my 14").
I'm going to ask my Dad's friend to help me adjust it someday in exchange for a box of beers or something. I used to work in his TV repair shop as a teen and I know he knows CRTs well. I remember he was always like, don't come too close, it could arc, lol.
I'm going to ask my Dad's friend to help me adjust it someday in exchange for a box of beers or something. I used to work in his TV repair shop as a teen and I know he knows CRTs well. I remember he was always like, don't come too close, it could arc, lol.
I don't have personal impressions of the 1351Q, but it looks like any regular PVM and will be perfectly suitable for you. I'm certain it cannot do 31KHz and maxes out at 480i. The PVM-xxL5 are the only PVMs that do 480p and above.
450 TVL is plenty for all the old games you could play on this. You can see pictures here:
http://imgur.com/a/B3yRJ
450 TVL is plenty for all the old games you could play on this. You can see pictures here:
http://imgur.com/a/B3yRJ
Okay, finally finished. Now I just need a basket for all the controllers to go down the side by the sub and I'm done!
There's a Gamecube with GBP hidden next to the NES and I have a little system down the side to change out a couple of plugs to use the 20" instead. It's tricky because it has RGB SCART input rather than BNC and so the audio needs to be split further back if I want to use the 20" (or get some old fashioned clip in speakers). Had to switch back to a PAL SNES shell because the NA one didn't quite fit in the gap, so I'll look at widening the slot sometime soon. Poor DC is a bit neglected in that little space too but for whatever reason I still can't get SCART output to work properly on that even with a Toro box! Still 10 systems ain't too bad I reckon...
There must be over 30 cables running back there, I tried to manage it as best I could but it's still pretty messy down by the power boards.
There's a Gamecube with GBP hidden next to the NES and I have a little system down the side to change out a couple of plugs to use the 20" instead. It's tricky because it has RGB SCART input rather than BNC and so the audio needs to be split further back if I want to use the 20" (or get some old fashioned clip in speakers). Had to switch back to a PAL SNES shell because the NA one didn't quite fit in the gap, so I'll look at widening the slot sometime soon. Poor DC is a bit neglected in that little space too but for whatever reason I still can't get SCART output to work properly on that even with a Toro box! Still 10 systems ain't too bad I reckon...
There must be over 30 cables running back there, I tried to manage it as best I could but it's still pretty messy down by the power boards.
BocoDragon
or, How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Realize This Assgrab is Delicious
I remember some thread a few years ago where a PAL gamer was like "why do Americans always display their gamecube games upside down??" Adorable.
That's one big-ass PVM right there. Can only imagine how great the picture looks. Most of the time I'm really happy with my 20 inch PVM, but if there would be one available, I think I would get a 25''.
I like the Joytech (?) control centers. I have the AV model with the remote control. Made my life so much easier when I don't have to crawl under tables anymore to plug devices, plus with 5 RGB scart slots I'm covered for now and have one more extra for my next console.
That PVM stand looks nice, but I hate to think how you insert carts into that SNES or the Dreamcast...
Lol yeh I remember that! So cute lol.
If you scroll up a bit you'll see what's wrong with the 20" PVM actually. I need to get it adjusted but it's going to require tweaking while it's on and I'm not brave enough to do that right now. In an actual game it's passable but I notice it because the picture on the 14" is so damn good in comparison.
Yeh they're the Joytech ones, I have the remotes somewhere but I'll need to dig them out. Although I can sit so close I can reach them anyway lol. I love them, was lucky to pick them each up for a pittance second hand.
Haha yeh... Well there's some space above them if I reach in, so I can pop the tray on the DC and sneak a disc in. The SNES has an Everdrive in it, otherwise I left enough slack on the cables to be able to pull it out to change carts. It's not ideal but it'll do the job for apartment living for now. I think someday when I can buy a house I'd get a custom shelf made.
NormalFish
Banned
Yeah I saw that comparison. Wonderful, thanks!
Should be sufficient for PSX/2, N64, etc. so that meets my demands. And the size is nice. Kinda anxious about moving in to dorms in the near future and bringing an expensive upscaler. Would prefer to just bring a smaller CRT.
Sega Playstation
Neo Member
I bought a rgb scart cable for my Model 1 snes. My problem is it isn't displaying on my pdp plasma. It will flicker and say no sync. I can see a line at the bottom of differing colors. My genesis and master system play fine with the same setup. Help me Gaf.
Is your cable composite video as sync or csync?
Sega Playstation
Neo Member
I bought the cabel from retro console accessories on ebay. The description says
This cable uses composite video as sync.
Oh, well, you might need a csync then. I'm guessing your Genesis and Master System cables are csync.
Sega Playstation
Neo Member
I have the monitor set on 75 ohms and have also tried the black wire (sync?) on both VD and HD to no avail.
Sega Playstation
Neo Member
For my Master system/ Genesis one the cable is the raw sync version of the cable.
Shin Johnpv
Member
It's all kind of confusing. raw sync and csync are the same thing. Then you also have sync on composite. What the difference is, raw sync or composite sync (csync) are both horizontal and vertical syncs on one signal. (get the sync is composited together to one signal). Sync on composite means that it's pulling the H and V sync from the composite video signal. Which introduces a ton of noise, and I don't think everything can use sync from this.
What you want are the SNES cables that are csync/raw sync.
Depending on the console and cable quality, there may be no visual difference between csync and composite video as sync. Both can look equally great. Although whenever possible I would try to get csync cables to avoid sync problems with any picky hardware obtained down the road. I have a few systems with sync on luma... they look good too.
Sega Playstation
Neo Member
Sweet thanks. When they reopen the store I will order that cable and it should fix my problems.
I never thought that my genesis games could look this good.
Those are my exact reactions in 2014, lol, I was stunned by it.
What does fully shielded actually do?
Prevents that annoying as hell audio buzz from getting loud to dead silent.
NormalFish
Banned
More than that. It generally prevents any sort of crosstalk between wires, so less visual noise as well.
Fuck, I have been looking forward to this for months, but wanted to wait for my wage that comes in ten days
Really hope we can preorder again soon. Thanks to both of you, so if I dont really hear much audio buzz, I should be mostly fine? Would love to se a comparison pic for visual noise though.
Yep, this too.
Yeah, you don't want audio buzz, it's best as silent as possible, it's even louder on white backgrounds.Fuck, I have been looking forward to this for months, but wanted to wait for my wage that comes in ten days
Thanks to both of you, so if I dont really hear much audio buzz, I should be mostly fine? Would love to se a comparison pic for visual noise though.
NormalFish
Banned
"Scam" is too strong a word, but unless you have an issue with crosstalk/audio buzz, the cables are basically just extra cost for nothing. If you're all about quality it might be worth getting cables you don't already have in heavily shielded varieties, but it's almost certainly not worth upgrading if you already have well working wires.
The shielding is honestly worth it just for the comfort of have as little interference as possible.... Especially if you have a ton of analogue connections in your setup.
There's nothing worse than audio buzz.
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