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[KyleOnTheRun]

I've been waiting two weeks for my KS8000 and it's set to finally arrive tomorrow (fingers fucking crossed). I've been keeping up on this thread as much as I can but I'm seriously daunted by the idea of parsing back through it for the relevant ideas and discoveries that I'll need to set this up properly.

I know the OP has been updated but there are still so many other useful details and tidbits planted throughout this thread.

The biggest takeaway agreements have been:

• HDMI Black Level Auto and PS4 Pro Auto.
• Dynamic Contrast is almost never a good idea, but if you can turn it to Low or Medium without losing detail / crushing blacks in a given HDR game or movie, give it a shot.
• Smart LED = High, but some have found the visual banding distracting, so if you notice anything weird you can follow personal preference.
• Crank Backlight to 20 during HDR gaming. A bug in Game Mode prevents it from ramping up automatically, as it does in all other content.
• Suggestion: set up different visual settings for movies and shows on the "TV" source. I've done this and so I switch to the "TV" source before running Netflix / Amazon / Hulu off the built-in apps for a tailored experience (Movie mode, Warm2, etc.)
• Seems like there two camps for color: Warm1 for gaming, Warm2 for viewing; or Warm2 for everything. I'm in the former camp because I like a tinge of artificiality and don't mind that my gaming whites aren't as yellow as in real life.

 

[dcx4610]

Seems like there is still confusion on Smart LED. It is NOT required to have it set to High or for your backlight to be set to 20 for HDR. Smart LED is a gimmick from Samsung that tries to work like an OLED display. It tries to dim the parts of the screen that are dark to emphasize the brighter parts. You might get slightly more pop with High but if you are like me, you can see the black levels constantly shifting lighter and darker throughout scenes.

I recommend Low as you still get super deep blacks without the black shifting. The backlight set to 20 is personal preference. I typically leave it at 20 but you aren't going to lose HDR by lowering it.

 

[SOLDIER]

The biggest takeaway agreements have been:

• HDMI Black Level Auto and PS4 Pro Auto.
• Dynamic Contrast is almost never a good idea, but if you can turn it to Low or Medium without losing detail / crushing blacks in a given HDR game or movie, give it a shot.
• Smart LED = High, but some have found the visual banding distracting, so if you notice anything weird you can follow personal preference.
• Crank Backlight to 20 during HDR gaming. A bug in Game Mode prevents it from ramping up automatically, as it does in all other content.
• Suggestion: set up different visual settings for movies and shows on the "TV" source. I've done this and so I switch to the "TV" source before running Netflix / Amazon / Hulu off the built-in apps for a tailored experience (Movie mode, Warm2, etc.)
• Seems like there two camps for color: Warm1 for gaming, Warm2 for viewing; or Warm2 for everything. I'm in the former camp because I like a tinge of artificiality and don't mind that my gaming whites aren't as yellow as in real life.

Interesting, didn't know you could set up different sources (profiles, basically) with the same port.

Also probably a dumb question, but can te remote also control devices that are plugged into the receiver, but not directly plugged to the device?

 

[emilegc]

I just watched the Digital Foundry video with the settings. They use color space on Auto for HDR, but every review I've seen on the tv says to put color space on Native for HDR. Any thoughts on this?

 

[KyleOnTheRun]

I just watched the Digital Foundry video with the settings. They use color space on Auto for HDR, but every review I've seen on the tv says to put color space on Native for HDR. Any thoughts on this?

Those reviews are old and reflect a glitch that existed when the TV first released. Auto is the way to go now.

Interesting, didn't know you could set up different sources (profiles, basically) with the same port.

Also probably a dumb question, but can te remote also control devices that are plugged into the receiver, but not directly plugged to the device?

Yeah, hopefully I explained that correctly. Basically the apps will use whatever settings are tied to the HDMI source you're currently using. So if you press the button for Netflix while playing PS4 Pro, it will use those HDMI1 settings, or whatever. So I entered some different settings on the "TV" source, which is its own thing, and that's what I switch to before entering the apps

 

[Haines]

Seems like there is still confusion on Smart LED. It is NOT required to have it set to High or for your backlight to be set to 20 for HDR. Smart LED is a gimmick from Samsung that tries to work like an OLED display. It tries to dim the parts of the screen that are dark to emphasize the brighter parts. You might get slightly more pop with High but if you are like me, you can see the black levels constantly shifting lighter and darker throughout scenes.

I recommend Low as you still get super deep blacks without the black shifting. The backlight set to 20 is personal preference. I typically leave it at 20 but you aren't going to lose HDR by lowering it.

There was a post a couple pages back saying the tv wont do full brightness for hdr without led on high. Maybe you disagree with that post? Im too lazy to dig it up. Its a few pages back and i believe they said it was the first cimment on rtings calibration?



Im really struggling with my contrast setting. The explanation the wow disc gives you is piss poor. I must have listened to it ten times, and even my wife doesnt understand.

If anyone has a wow disc, can you explain how to use that test pattern? I can set it to 94, in which case i get whites up to around +5% or can i go down to 90 like DF and get up to +7%. The voice tells me some elements will dissapear on correct settings.

Maybe i just need to research contrast, and understand it more.

Would love some advice on this. im going to check the xbox calibration once more before work.

 

[dcx4610]

I just watched the Digital Foundry video with the settings. They use color space on Auto for HDR, but every review I've seen on the tv says to put color space on Native for HDR. Any thoughts on this?

There's no correct answer. Native is not natural and over saturates color which causes you to lose detail. Setting HDR to Native color would give slightly more pop at the trade off for losing detail. I leave it on Auto and it looks great.

 

[emilegc]

There's no correct answer. Native is not natural and over saturates color which causes you to lose detail. Setting HDR to Native color would give slightly more pop at the trade off for losing detail. I leave it on Auto and it looks great.

On my tv it's the opposite. On HDR mode, on native the colors look more washed out than in auto. On normal movie and game mode, on native looks cartoony.

 

[dcx4610]

There was a post a couple pages back saying the tv wont do full brightness for hdr without led on high. Maybe you disagree with that post? Im too lazy to dig it up. Its a few pages back and i believe they said it was the first cimment on rtings calibration?

It seems as if you might get a tick more brightness with it on High. It would be like a 21 setting for backlight. 20 is pretty blinding as it is so I don't see it as being needed. Again though, personal preference. No correct answer here.

 

[MadLaughter]

Couple questions:

How frequently will this TV go on sale? I missed the most recent one, and my main living room TV is busted..

Reviews for this TV seem great, but I don't know TVs well enough to know if they only apply to the 55 inch version or if all ks8000 are just as good.

 

[KyleOnTheRun]

Couple questions:

How frequently will this TV go on sale? I missed the most recent one, and my main living room TV is busted..

Reviews for this TV seem great, but I don't know TVs well enough to know if they only apply to the 55 inch version or if all ks8000 are just as good.

I think you'll have a hard time reliably finding the 55" below $999 (non-EPP). Use that as your baseline. If you happen to see anything lower, it's not just a great deal, it's a killer deal.

The only variance I've heard between models is that (supposedly) the panel more commonly found in the 60" model has worse black uniformity than the 55" and 65". Not sure why that would be other than being a weird manufacturing size, but I've heard it multiple times now.

 

[Haines]

Tinkering with the simple xbox calibration showed me 94 in contrast when I realized I was missing part of the pattern as well.

Going back to wow disc that gives me visible white all the way up plus 7 percent even if it's just barely there.

90 like df shows 7 percent too much i think but my guess it's it's panel dependent.

I tested in Uncharted on that cloud I noticed and I'm going with 94.

To look at this cloud follow these instructions.

Go to uncharted 4 chapter select. 12 at sea. Skip cinematic. Immediately pan camera to look out right side of boat at big tall cloud. At 100 this cloud will have a white glowing strip on side of it. Turn down to 94 to get the detail back. Any farther and you don't get any more detail.

Obviously you want to have mine or similar settings to mine while doing this or you will have a different image than me.

It's possible df is right with 90 on a different media sample but the difference is so small at this point I'm setting it and forgetting it.
Will update the OP tonight after work with mustards fornatting and the bew df video

 

[AngelOFDeath]

Those reviews are old and reflect a glitch that existed when the TV first released. Auto is the way to go now.



Yeah, hopefully I explained that correctly. Basically the apps will use whatever settings are tied to the HDMI source you're currently using. So if you press the button for Netflix while playing PS4 Pro, it will use those HDMI1 settings, or whatever. So I entered some different settings on the "TV" source, which is its own thing, and that's what I switch to before entering the apps

I could have sworn the apps had their own setting, but again I am not home to verify.

 

[TetraGenesis]

Tinkering with the simple xbox calibration showed me 94 in contrast when I realized I was missing part of the pattern as well.

Going back to wow disc that gives me visible white all the way up plus 7 percent even if it's just barely there.

90 like df shows 7 percent too much i think but my guess it's it's panel dependent.

I tested in Uncharted on that cloud I noticed and I'm going with 94.

To look at this cloud follow these instructions.

Go to uncharted 4 chapter select. 12 at sea. Skip cinematic. Immediately pan camera to look out right side of boat at big tall cloud. At 100 this cloud will have a white glowing strip on side of it. Turn down to 94 to get the detail back. Any farther and you don't get any more detail.

Obviously you want to have mine or similar settings to mine while doing this or you will have a different image than me.

It's possible df is right with 90 on a different media sample but the difference is so small at this point I'm setting it and forgetting it.
Will update the OP tonight after work with mustards fornatting and the bew df video

Would you mind updating the OP with this discovery, Haines?

As well as this post:

The biggest takeaway agreements have been:

• HDMI Black Level Auto and PS4 Pro Auto.
• Dynamic Contrast is almost never a good idea, but if you can turn it to Low or Medium without losing detail / crushing blacks in a given HDR game or movie, give it a shot.
• Smart LED = High, but some have found the visual banding distracting, so if you notice anything weird you can follow personal preference.
• Crank Backlight to 20 during HDR gaming. A bug in Game Mode prevents it from ramping up automatically, as it does in all other content.
• Suggestion: set up different visual settings for movies and shows on the "TV" source. I've done this and so I switch to the "TV" source before running Netflix / Amazon / Hulu off the built-in apps for a tailored experience (Movie mode, Warm2, etc.)
• Seems like there two camps for color: Warm1 for gaming, Warm2 for viewing; or Warm2 for everything. I'm in the former camp because I like a tinge of artificiality and don't mind that my gaming whites aren't as yellow as in real life.

 

[Devastus]

So I have a choice between the KS8000 55" or the KS8500 55". I can get either one for the exact same price as the other, which one is better? I PC game and just bought a ps4pro, I will be the only one using it so viewing angle is no issue in my case.

 

[Flandy]

The biggest takeaway agreements have been:

• HDMI Black Level Auto and PS4 Pro Auto.
• Dynamic Contrast is almost never a good idea, but if you can turn it to Low or Medium without losing detail / crushing blacks in a given HDR game or movie, give it a shot.
• Smart LED = High, but some have found the visual banding distracting, so if you notice anything weird you can follow personal preference.
• Crank Backlight to 20 during HDR gaming. A bug in Game Mode prevents it from ramping up automatically, as it does in all other content.
• Suggestion: set up different visual settings for movies and shows on the "TV" source. I've done this and so I switch to the "TV" source before running Netflix / Amazon / Hulu off the built-in apps for a tailored experience (Movie mode, Warm2, etc.)
• Seems like there two camps for color: Warm1 for gaming, Warm2 for viewing; or Warm2 for everything. I'm in the former camp because I like a tinge of artificiality and don't mind that my gaming whites aren't as yellow as in real life.

Isn't the PS4 RGB setting unreliable?
For example sending a limited signal when your display is Full.

 

[ManUnkindH]

Could you guys tell me what Colour Space setting is recommended for NON-HDR movies/games/content? Native or Auto?

Doesn't seem like AUTO is the most accurate for NON-HDR, but I could be wrong....

 

[SilverArrow20XX]

Repair man coming tomorrow morning to replace my panel. Hopefully this one will be perfect. The light bleed on this one has gotten worse and is now noticeable along the entire bottom of the screen instead of just the bottom right. Just in time for FFXV. A bit annoying that I'm missing half a day's pay to be there for him, but otherwise it's free, so it's all good.

 

[KyleOnTheRun]

Isn't the PS4 RGB setting unreliable?
For example sending a limited signal when your display is Full.

I was one of the early champions of this idea, but after several pages of discussion, dcx4610 explained that Limited does not represent a loss in quality. It does translate the 0-255 range to new values, but adjusts the gamma curve as well, resulting in identical picture quality.

I can't explain in any more detail than that, but I was satisfied, so I'll let dcx4610 chime in if they want to elaborate on why Full vs. Limited has no bearing on image / brightness quality.

 

[emilegc]

Could you guys tell me what Colour Space setting is recommended for NON-HDR movies/games/content? Native or Auto?

Doesn't seem like AUTO is the most accurate for NON-HDR, but I could be wrong....

The most accurate for SDR is auto. Why do you think otherwise?

 

[ManUnkindH]

The most accurate for SDR is auto. Why do you think otherwise?

On my PS4 PRO I have the Uncharted 4 dynamic theme, the one with Drake sitting in the pirate ship with all the gold around him. Seems when I put Auto on everything receives a greenish tint....

 

[D23]

Please don't turn on dynamic contrast. This is a nice expensive TV do not ruin the image.

I could not agree more. I was one of the few poster here who suggested dynamic contrast for the longest time. But I have it off now.

 

[spannicus]

Tweaked a few settings in movie mode and the image is perfect. Movie mode is legit.

 

[Art Vandilay]

Tweaked a few settings in movie mode and the image is perfect. Movie mode is legit.

Agreed. I'm going to try some games in movie mode tonight. I'm sure the lag is horrible in HDR, but I bet it's bearable in SDR.

Repair man coming tomorrow morning to replace my panel. Hopefully this one will be perfect. The light bleed on this one has gotten worse and is now noticeable along the entire bottom of the screen instead of just the bottom right. Just in time for FFXV. A bit annoying that I'm missing half a day's pay to be there for him, but otherwise it's free, so it's all good.

I didn't realize they would come replace the panel. I've got some annoying light bleed in the bottom right corner.

Edit: Is there a way to get the serial number from within the settings? I don't want to have to take the TV off the wall mount just for the serial number if I can avoid doing so. I'm currently at work so can't check at the moment.

 

[Robiin]

Okay, finally finished tinkering for now. I am enjoying Chef's Table France right now, beautifully shot series and clean colors. There are a few scenes in nighttime streets with colored lights everywhere which has been the highlight of HDR so far for me. You can see everything so clearly, even subtle shadows in dark environments.

These are my settings for HDR content, after reading this thread, preferences and various videos:

Picture mode: Movie
Backlight: 20
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 90
Sharpness: 0
Digital Clean View: Off
Auto Motion Plus: Off
Smart LED: High
Dynamic Contrast: Low
Color Tone: Warm2
Gamma: 0
Color Space: Native

Still adjusting for non-HDR and Gaming (don't have a PS4 Pro/Xbox One S so good old 1080p gaming)...

I could not agree more. I was one of the few poster here who suggested dynamic contrast for the longest time. But I have it off now.

I keep it on low, because off for me just seems to make the image darker. Maybe I should try and get used to it off.

 

[Robiin]

Double post sorry.

 

[Haines]

Dynamic contrast off here for a long time and it's amazing if you have all settings correct.

I will never touch that setting again 100%.

Only setting I will need to figure out is a touch of sharpness for my wiiu stuff.image is far too soft. Even 5 helped.

What do you feel you guys are gaining by using mode mode without game mode on??

 

[The Hermit]

Fuck, just realized something. I just bough a Ks8000 and I was planing to put my gaming PC on the KS8000

But I never though about one thing until now... I have a R9 390. While a capable card, apparently it doesn't have a HDMI 2.0 port.

Is there an adapter to displayport -> HDMI 2.0 that allows 4K? If not than everything I am doing is for nothing

 

[Robiin]

Dynamic contrast off here for a long time and it's amazing if you have all settings correct.

I will never touch that setting again 100%.

Only setting I will need to figure out is a touch of sharpness for my wiiu stuff.image is far too soft. Even 5 helped.

What do you feel you guys are gaining by using mode mode without game mode on??

Can I ask you to do one thing for me? With all your settings as you have them now, only change dynamic contrast from off to low, what do you feel happens to your image? Only brighter, or overexposure, or what?

Gonna try and get settings right for Smash 4 Wii U now.

EDIT: I am incredibly impressed with the blacks of this TV. During the Smash 4 loading screen, if not for the spinning red ball in the corner, I would have though the TV was off.

 

[Jwebster24]

I've just ordered the 49" model, collecting tomorrow.

Can't wait will be sure to follow the settings in this thread to get it all setup.

Excited for some One S HDR goodness.

 

[Aske]

The biggest takeaway agreements have been:

• HDMI Black Level Auto and PS4 Pro Auto.
• Dynamic Contrast is almost never a good idea, but if you can turn it to Low or Medium without losing detail / crushing blacks in a given HDR game or movie, give it a shot.
• Smart LED = High, but some have found the visual banding distracting, so if you notice anything weird you can follow personal preference.
• Crank Backlight to 20 during HDR gaming. A bug in Game Mode prevents it from ramping up automatically, as it does in all other content.
  [*]Suggestion: set up different visual settings for movies and shows on the "TV" source. I've done this and so I switch to the "TV" source before running Netflix / Amazon / Hulu off the built-in apps for a tailored experience (Movie mode, Warm2, etc.)
• Seems like there two camps for color: Warm1 for gaming, Warm2 for viewing; or Warm2 for everything. I'm in the former camp because I like a tinge of artificiality and don't mind that my gaming whites aren't as yellow as in real life.

In my experimentation this morning, this seems incorrect. I can open the KS8000's Netflix app from my PS4 input, and the settings auto-switch to Movie.

Netflix question: I'm sure I read Luke Cage was HDR. However it's only labeled 4K. If it Is HDR, then the TV seems to think the rest of Netflix is too, because my backlight doesn't change settings between Luke Cage and Arrested Development (which of course is SDR).

PS4 Game settings - I find that for Fallout, I notice no difference in responsiveness with my Movie settings vs my Game settings. Given the Backlight bug, I'm going to leave it on Movie for now, since that should auto-switch to HDR settings when I feed it HDR content. Have to try that when I get a chance. Playing SFV will be the real test - if that feels laggy I'll switch back to Game.

So the only thing I really need fixed with a firmware update is the Optical Out bug that resets audio from DTS/DD to stereo PCM every time I change sources.

 

[Deception]

Thinking about biting the bullet on the 55" from Bestbuy for $999. Think this is a good deal everyone?

 

[Robiin]

I think I found my perfect settings for Wii U. I complained earlier that I felt the image was soft, but a tiny bit of sharpening fixed it.

Picture mode: Game
Backlight: 8
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 100
Sharpness: 8 (I raised it to 20 and lowered until I could no longer see a clear filter)
Smart LED: Off
Black level for HDMI (don't know if that's the English term): Low
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Color Tone: Warm1 (are games originally calibrated for Warm2 like movies?)
Gamma: -2
Color Space: Custom (adjusted like the video from AVForums and it looks good to me, I don't have a calibration disc)

 

[HylianTom]

I think I found my perfect settings for Wii U. I complained earlier that I felt the image was soft, but a tiny bit of sharpening fixed it.

I wanted to let you know that this is much-appreciated. Wii U is my main console (at least until Switch arrives), and this TV may very well be mine in a few weeks.

 

[nate75]

My settings KS7000 (UK) I use the same settings for gaming and movie watching etc Game Mode Off when not gaming

Movie (Game mode on)

Picture Size: 16:9 Standard (Fit to screen: on)
Backlight: 10 (depends on lighting conditions and Preference) 20 (HDR)
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 90
Sharpness: 0
Colour: 49
Tint: 50/50

(*Unavailable during game Mode)
*Digital Clean View: Off
*Analogue Clean View: Off
*Auto Motion Plus: Off (For watching Sports etc try LED Clear Motion and increase Backlight to compensate for dimmer image)
Smart LED: High
*Film Mode: Auto 2
HDMI UHD Colour : On
HDMI Black Level: Auto
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Colour Tone: Warm 2
White Balance: Default
Gamma: -2
Colour Space: Auto

XB1
TV resolution 4K UHD
Colour depth 10-bit
Colour space Standard

Ps4
Auto for all settings

 

[Jwebster24]

My settings KS7000 (UK) I use the same settings for gaming and movie watching etc Game Mode Off when not gaming

Movie (Game mode on)

Picture Size: 16:9 Standard (Fit to screen: on)
Backlight: 10 (depends on lighting conditions and Preference) 20 (HDR)
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 90
Sharpness: 0
Colour: 49
Tint: 50/50

(*Unavailable during game Mode)
*Digital Clean View: Off
*Analogue Clean View: Off
*Auto Motion Plus: Off (For watching Sports etc try LED Clear Motion and increase Backlight to compensate for dimmer image)
Smart LED: High
*Film Mode: Auto 2
HDMI UHD Colour : On
HDMI Black Level: Auto
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Colour Tone: Warm 2
White Balance: Default
Gamma: -2
Colour Space: Auto

XB1
TV resolution 4K UHD
Colour depth 10-bit
Colour space Standard

Ps4
Auto for all settings

Thanks for this I've just ordered my KS7000, picking it up tomorrow.

 

[Dr. Zoidberg]

Picked up the 55" KS8000 (AA02 Panel) on Wednesday. I'm upgrading from a 2006 50" Sony SXRD (Rear Projection). Over the past five years I've briefly owned 10 different TVs including Plasma and LCD. I returned all of them for various reasons. This year I decided to pick up the 8000 because it was cheap and good for gaming. I think it will hold me over until LG's OLEDs get their HDR lag numbers down. I've tweaked and adjusted the set quite a bit over the last few days and here's my takeaway so far:

+ Great colors and blacks for an LCD
+ Great Input lag
+ Great panel uniformity. My set has no light bleed or clouding. There is some minor DSE along the bottom and right edges of the screen but it's very minor and I rarely notice it. It's not "in my face" when the camera pans like it is on other sets I've tried. I've owned enough LCDs to know this is an inescapable side-effect of the technology at these sizes.
+ Very little blur on moving images
+ Looks stunning with games or good video content

All good stuff. Maybe you guys can help me with my problems. I use "Movie" and Warm1 with Backlight at 7:

- Motion handling for low framerate (30fps or less) content kind of sucks, IMO. I'm not sure if it's the pulsing backlight (PWM) or what but if there's a panning shot or quick motion with high-contrast elements (i.e. a white object in front of a dark background, etc.) you get a very flickery double image. I've seen this double image on other Plasma and LCD sets so I know I just have to get used to that but something about this set makes it look really jumpy and uneven, almost similar to tearing in a game. You can pump up the motion handling to obscene soap-opera levels to get rid of it but I don't want to do that. I find leaving the set in game mode all the time helps some.

- Gamma or contrast seems off. I can "calibrate" this set to the Disney WoW disc or the Xbox 1 and the tests all check out but when I try to watch content from cable or blu-ray shadows and darker areas appear very dark and it doesn't seem balanced. I can't swear that detail is being lost but something doesn't look right. I know Gamma should be at 0 but I find myself turning it up on darker shows so I don't feel like everything's a combination of bright and very dark elements. I feel like if I knew what I was doing with the white-balance and such I could fix this but I don't. I keep brightness at 45 and contrast at 97. If you trust the WoW disc contrast should be at 100 but that just causes some elements to be blown out and worsens the darkness issue. Maybe I should lower contrast further.

- Some of the presets (Movie, Standard, etc.) have whacked out colors. I can use WoW (or XB1) to get my Color and Tint perfect according to the blue filter but the results when watching video tell a different story. For example, in movie mode if you calibrate to WoW using the filter, flesh tones are very drab and yellowish. I end up bumping up Color several ticks and moving tint toward red a few ticks. Color looks good then but it's not "accurate" and so I'm wondering if I'm screwing some other colors up in the process. Again, I'm sure white balance is the answer here but I don't know how to do it.

You may ask why I didn't just copy the white balance settings from RTINGS or some other source? Well, they tell you not to as there is panel variance, and on top of that they have the FA01 panel so the settings they have are even less likely to apply to my set. Maybe I should try them anyway.

 

[Robiin]

I think I found my perfect settings for Wii U. I complained earlier that I felt the image was soft, but a tiny bit of sharpening fixed it.

Can confirm I like these settings for regular HD gaming, Wii U and PS4 tested. I tested Smash 4 earlier and now spent 24 in game hours in the Witcher 3 because I know the colors really change from night to day (night is very blue on PS4 in my experience which I don't necessarily like but it is what it is).

A few pictures of the same scene, from day to sunset to night. Taken by one of the worst low-light cameras in the world though, bear in mind.

 

[Haines]

Can I ask you to do one thing for me? With all your settings as you have them now, only change dynamic contrast from off to low, what do you feel happens to your image? Only brighter, or overexposure, or what?

Gonna try and get settings right for Smash 4 Wii U now.

EDIT: I am incredibly impressed with the blacks of this TV. During the Smash 4 loading screen, if not for the spinning red ball in the corner, I would have though the TV was off.

I mean I can but you have color space on native. It's obvious the image you are going for so my input won't help you. I'm at work but I do remember blacks getting washed out and looking grey.

At some point preference takes over.

Just like how I find warm1 to be the closest to the right image for gaming but others prefer warm2.

The only setting I lack confidence in is Gamma. But -1 and 0 are so close that I cant be bothered and pretty sure those are the notches it belongs from what ive read.

I can see Witcher needing a touch of sharpness as well. It looked soft as well when I checked it out. Maybe it's lower than 1080p is it?

 

[Aske]

Netflix question: I'm sure I read Luke Cage was HDR. However it's only labeled 4K. If it Is HDR, then the TV seems to think the rest of Netflix is too, because my backlight doesn't change settings between Luke Cage and Arrested Development (which of course is SDR).

Okay. Dropping some Netflix knowledge in response to my own question. This applies to Canadian Netflix, using the Samsung TV app, firmware 1142.

In the 4K Netflix list, there are some things labeled 4K. Luke Cage is one of these. It is not HDR; my backlight settings don't change. Chef's Table is HDR, is labeled as such on the Netflix menu; my backlight jumps to 20 (looks stunning, by the way). Weirdly, in this same 4K list, there are shows like Lady Dynamite, which are neither 4K, nor HDR.

The TV does not tell me it's displaying HDR content. The show starts, the settings change, and I can confirm by opening the Picture menu.

I thought I'd read that the TV displayed a pop-up when HDR content started; or is that just for games and UHD BD?

 

[vatstep]

Okay. Dropping some Netflix knowledge in response to my own question. This applies to Canadian Netflix, using the Samsung TV app, firmware 1142.

In the 4K Netflix list, there are some things labeled 4K. Luke Cage is one of these. It is not HDR; my backlight settings don't change. Chef's Table is HDR, is labeled as such on the Netflix menu; my backlight jumps to 20 (looks stunning, by the way). Weirdly, in this same 4K list, there are shows like Lady Dynamite, which are neither 4K, nor HDR.

The TV does not tell me it's displaying HDR content. The show starts, the settings change, and I can confirm by opening the Picture menu.

I thought I'd read that the TV displayed a pop-up when HDR content started; or is that just for games and UHD BD?

I think you only get the HDR notification when you're using a device connected via HDMI.

 

[Wrestlemania]

Is there anything I need to do to get HDR videos working from my PC? I've tried a few Youtube videos and Netflix series that should be HDR, but the TV doesn't seem to pick them up as HDR.

I've got it set to YCbCr422 and 10 bpc colour depth.

 

[SilverArrow20XX]

I didn't realize they would come replace the panel. I've got some annoying light bleed in the bottom right corner.

Edit: Is there a way to get the serial number from within the settings? I don't want to have to take the TV off the wall mount just for the serial number if I can avoid doing so. I'm currently at work so can't check at the moment.

Yeah. Had to go through few rounds of being asked to check settings before finally getting a ticket put in for physical repair but it wasn't too bad. Just had to text pictures of the problem to the tech after he contacted me and he ordered the new panel right away.

I don't know of any other place the serial number's listed. If you can fit an arm behind it, maybe taking video of it with your phone would work to see it.

 

[SOLDIER]

Set up the Xbox One S today, and when I try to set the display to 4K UHD, it gives me an error message ("That didn't work")

Under 4K details, everything is checked. Under Advanced Video Settings, "Allow 4K" is also checked.

It's just that under TV resolution it says 1080p. Is this how it should be when on the main hub screen?

 

[Art Vandilay]

Yeah. Had to go through few rounds of being asked to check settings before finally getting a ticket put in for physical repair but it wasn't too bad. Just had to text pictures of the problem to the tech after he contacted me and he ordered the new panel right away.

I don't know of any other place the serial number's listed. If you can fit an arm behind it, maybe taking video of it with your phone would work to see it.

I was able to find it in the menu somewhere. I submitted a ticket. It's primarily noticeable in the bottom right corner when viewing HDR content. It drives me absolutely insane so thank you for the heads up!

 

[Silent-blades]

Every now and the I get a black screen for like a second. Anyone else running into this issue with their Samsung? I have a Samsung js8500.

Thanks

 

[TLZ]

Has there been a fix for the HDR brightness bug yet?

What HDR bug?

 

[Art Vandilay]

What HDR bug?

Backlight doesn't automatically turn to 20 with games.

 

[MrOogieBoogie]

Anyone have any settings advice for the LG UH6030 line? My TV is 49".

 

[TLZ]

Backlight doesn't automatically turn to 20 with games.

You mean when HDR games are detected? It does the first time the TV detects any HDR but if you change that to any other number then it will saved as such. So the next time you play HDR content it will use the last number you used. That's how it is with me. It just won't automatically jump back to 20 every time. That's not how it works.